CHAPTER II.

FIVE DAYS AND FIVE NIGHTS AS A TRAMP AMONG TRAMPS.[82]

I. A NIGHT IN A MUNICIPAL LODGING-HOUSE.

Having gradually been brought to the conviction, by investigation of

numerous cases of destitution among women, that there were circumstances

in our social arrangements which fostered immorality, I resolved to make

a first-hand exploration, by that method of personal experiment, which

is the nearest road to accurate knowledge, of the conditions under which

destitute women were placed who sought the shelter of the common

lodging-house or the workhouse.

It was necessary to find a friend willing to share the possible perils

of such an experiment, and to arrange in such a way that it should be

unknown to all but a few. I was fortunate in finding a fellow-worker

willing to go with me, and as to the truth of the following story she is

a sufficient witness.

We dressed very shabbily, but were respectable and clean. We wore shawls

and carried hats, which we used if desirable, according to whether we

had sunshine or rain, or wished to look more or less respectable. We

carried soap, a towel, a change of stockings, and a few other small

articles, wrapped in an old shawl. My boots were in holes, and my

companion wore a grey tweed well-worn skirt. My hat was a certificate

for any tramp ward, and my shawl ragged, though clean. We had one

umbrella between us.

Our plan of campaign was to take train to a town some way from home,

arriving in the evening, and then to seek lodging. We had five nights to

spend, and were expected at a town some way off by friends who thought

we were on a "walking tour"! We cut ourselves off from civilisation on

Monday with 2_s_. 6_d_. in our pockets and a considerable distance

between us and home. We were expected on Saturday by our friends. We

thought that we should be able to sample only two workhouses after the

first night, expecting to be detained two nights at each.

Escaping observation by going to a country railway station, we took

train to a town about fifteen miles from home. We enquired of the police

and others, and found that there was a large municipal lodging-house, so

we bought a loaf and a quarter of a pound of butter, and applied for

beds. We were just in time to get a double bed in the married couples'

quarters, for which we paid sixpence. We were shown by a servant--a

young woman, about twenty-three apparently--into a large, lofty

kitchen, furnished with wooden tables and benches. There was a splendid

kitchen range, and all was clean and tidy; hot and cold water were laid

on to a sink, and boiling water for making tea could be drawn from a

tap. Pots and pans, and _basins_ to drink out of, were kept in a handy

cupboard. One roller towel, however, was all the convenience for

personal washing or for wiping pots. There was a dish-cloth, and we

preferred to wash our pots and put them away to dry rather than to wipe

them on the towel used by our fellow-lodgers.

Our first difficulty was as follows: We had bread and butter; we had,

also, in our bundle, some tea and sugar, the latter mixed with plasmon,

as we feared we might not keep our strength up till the week-end without

some such help. But we had neither spoon, knife, nor fork, so we could

not spread our butter nor stir our tea. A woman, with a girl of twelve,

whose language left much to be desired, told us we could have the three

necessary articles, and also a locker in which to keep our food, by

depositing one shilling. We accordingly did this, but were not given a

locker, as we were only staying one night. We had to put our provisions

in the corner of a cupboard used by others, but they were not touched.

Provided with the necessary implements, we proceeded to make tea, and to

cut our bread and butter receiving friendly hints from people who saw we

were novices, and studying our companions. We drank out of basins.

Besides the loud-voiced woman and child of twelve, there was a man and

his wife, and a very nagging woman, whose husband received a great deal

of abuse. The inmates appeared to know each other somewhat, and talked

about others who had lived there.

We made enquiries for the closet, and found that the key hung by the

fireside, and gave admission to a single water-closet, very small, in a

yard through which everyone passed to the kitchen. This appeared to do

duty for the single women also, as they used the same kitchen and

sitting-room as the married couples. There was a good flush of water

caused by a movable seat. There was no lavatory or any convenience for

washing except the sink in the kitchen used by all the lodgers, men and

women alike, but there was a notice up that "slipper baths" could be had

for twopence. This absence of any opportunity for personal cleanliness,

apart from extra payment, must lead to uncleanliness of person where

people are all living on the edge of poverty; it is, too, most desirable

that women should be able to wash apart from men.

After tea we found our way upstairs to a sitting-room, also furnished

with wooden tables and benches and fairly clean. Beyond it was a bedroom

for single females, separated by wooden partitions into cubicles. The

servant was in attendance, and was the only official we saw during our

stay, except when we purchased our bed at the office, and obtained and

returned our knife, fork and spoon. Being very tired, we asked for our

bed, and were shown a boarded-off cubicle, the door of which we could

bolt. It was lighted by a large window, and in the dim light looked

fairly clean, but the floor was dirty. The top sheet of the bed was

clean, the bottom one dirty, and the pillows filthy. We spread a clean

dress skirt over them and resigned ourselves. The bed was flock, and was

hot and uncomfortable; it smelt stale. We opened the window. There was

no furniture besides the bed; we hung our clothes on nails in the

partition. I killed a bug on the wall close to my head.

Compared, however, with our further experiences, this lodging-house was

fairly comfortable--indeed, one of our fellow-lodgers, who apparently

was a respectable working-man, said it was "a palace" compared to

others!

We had a restless night, disturbed first by the coming to bed of several

married couples in adjacent cubicles. We could hear all the

conversations, and the nagging woman kept telling her husband, in a tone

of voice much louder than his own, to "Shut up!" Then sleep was

difficult in such strange surroundings: outside, trams went past till

after midnight; inside, many of our companions were audible by snores.

We got some uneasy sleep, but were awakened very early as some of the

men were called about five o'clock. Towards six o'clock we got up

ourselves, with a longing for fresh air. We dressed, but could find

nowhere to wash but the sink in the kitchen, with all our clothes on, as

a man was already in possession, and was washing up his pots when we

came down. We reflected that with only this poor lavatory accommodation,

however clean our fellow-lodgers looked, they _could_ not be personally

otherwise than dirty, if they stayed on here; unless, which is very

unlikely, they kept on spending twopence for "slipper baths"!

We got our breakfast in the same manner as tea, and were prepared to go,

but had to wait an hour before we could get our one shilling deposit

returned, the office not being open till eight o'clock. We sat in the

sitting-room, watching and talking to our fellow-lodgers. Their talk was

very free and often profane. Several women and the little girl were

sitting round a table, crocheting the articles which are hawked from

door to door. Men were reading papers. One by one the single women

lodgers came out of the inside room and went downstairs to wash and get

breakfast. The servant was sweeping the room. Her language was not

altogether clean; she smoked a pipe and mentioned a drink. It did not

seem altogether desirable that a young woman should practically be left

in charge. Her presence could be no guarantee for conduct or language,

and she might easily herself be tempted into immorality by men lodgers.

Her language showed that she was not much above the rest of the

inmates.

The conversation turned first to the accommodation. We learned that we

had been fortunate in our cubicle, as some were infested with bugs. One

woman described how they harboured in the crevices between the woodwork

of the cubicles, which were not close fitting, and how she cleared them

out with a hatpin and exterminated them. The relative merits of various

cubicles in relation to the absence or presence of these insect pests

were discussed at length. The conversation naturally turned on the

accommodation at various lodging-houses, and we heard of horrors that

explained why this was called "a palace," and was so much appreciated,

that we were reckoned lucky to obtain a bed after seven o'clock at

night. We were told of a place where eight married couples slept in one

room, with _one bucket_ for all purposes. As the time went on the

conversation turned to visitors, and we learned that people came once a

week to sing and speak, and were much appreciated. "It was only what

they ought to do." We tried to get a little more information on this

subject, but the talk veered round to the Moat Farm murder. The

execution was due just at eight o'clock, and all eyes followed the

clock, and surmises as to the murderer's feelings were coupled with

references to the crime, with which all present seemed to be familiar.

We were glad when eight o'clock put an end to this topic and our

sojourn, as we could obtain our deposit and depart.

II. A NIGHT IN A COMMON LODGING-HOUSE.

The morning was fairly fine, though grey, and we inquired our way to a

town on our route, about nine miles distant. We left the road for the

canal side, and sat down in the fields to rest a little, and then walked

on. We passed some men who were working in a barge; they shouted to us,

and invited us to come to them. We walked away and took no notice, but

repeatedly on our journey we were spoken to, and I could not help

contrasting the way in which men looked at us with the usual bearing of

a man towards a _well-dressed_ female. I had never realised before that

a lady's dress, or even that of a respectable working-woman, was a

_protection_. The bold, free look of a man at a destitute woman must be

felt to be realised. Being together, we were a guard to one another, so

we took no notice but walked on. I should not care to be a _solitary_

woman tramping the roads. A destitute woman once told me that if you

tramped, "you had to take up with a fellow." I can well believe it.

About mid-day we dined on our loaf and butter, as well as we could

without a knife. A woman, also tramping, came to sit by us; she was

going to seek her husband, she said, in the town to which we were also

going. She was accustomed to tramp, as he went to different towns in

search of work, and she was anxious to push on to get there early. As

she seemed to know the neighbourhood, we asked her about lodgings. We

had determined to sample a common lodging-house, as we were not yet

sufficiently destitute to claim the workhouse. She told us of two

lodging-houses where single women were taken, but one was "very rough,

and the beds so crowded that heads almost touched heels." She recommended

the other one "on t'hill" as a respectable lodging-house, suggesting

that we could get a married couple's furnished room for sixpence a

night. We decided, therefore, to make for this _respectable_

lodging-house.

Towards one o'clock, after we resumed our route, it began to rain hard.

We found a path off the main road that led into a wood, and managed to

rest and shelter under the trees till the rain began to drop heavily

upon us. We then began to walk again, and found that outside the rain

had moderated. We were rather stiff and cold, so as soon as we came to

the houses we looked out for somewhere to get a cup of tea, and were

fortunate enough to find a coffee-shop, where we got a mug of hot tea

each for one penny, and ate some more of our loaf. We still had a good

walk, through outlying streets, before we reached the town, and by dint

of many enquiries we found the lodging-house. We first asked a postman

(after sending a post-card home, which we wrote at the post-office). We

gathered from his looks that, if respectable, our chosen lodging-house

was nothing very special; but it was "Hobson's choice" apparently, for a

man in charge of another lodging-house, where we made enquiries, said

it was the _only_ place where they took single women, the "rough" place

having given up taking them. So we found ourselves, between six and

seven o'clock, at the door of the house, which was not bad-looking

outside--an old-fashioned, roomy-looking, stone house, which might once

have been a farmhouse and seen better days. The landlady, a stout,

pleasant-faced woman, received us cheerfully. She told us that the

"furnished apartments" were not in order, but we could have a

boarded-off apartment and sleep together for eightpence the night. The

bed would be clean. This sounded just as good as we could expect, so we

paid her eightpence and turned in. I shall never forget this interior.

Fortunately it was getting dark, and not till morning did we fully

realise the state of the place. We found ourselves in a double room,

consisting, probably, of a kitchen and front room thrown into one, each

possessing a kitchen firegrate, and the back room a tiny sink. Round the

wall was a wooden seat, and wooden tables and benches completed the

furniture, except that the corner was occupied by a large cupboard.

Numerous articles of apparel were hanging from lines; saucepans,

tea-pots, etc., were to be found on the kitchen mantelpiece and over the

sink (all more or less dirty), and mugs, to be had for the asking. Two

perambulators partly stopped the large opening between the two rooms;

one belonged to a mother with children, the other to a blind man and

his wife, and contained their musical outfit and belongings. Two doors

led into this double apartment; one gave access to the entrance passage

and the landlady's rooms, the other to a small yard. In this was the

only sanitary convenience for at least forty people, the key of which

hung by the fireside--one small water-closet, _perfectly dry_. The

stench in it was enough to knock you down; one visit was enough to

sicken you. Yet some of the lodgers had been there _six weeks_. This and

the small sink by the fireside were the only provision we could discover

for sanitary purposes of all kinds.

Yet it was not the place itself, but its inhabitants, that are quite

unforgettable. We sat down on the wooden bench behind a table, and

immediately facing us was a huge negro with a _wicked_ face. By his side

a quiet-looking woman, who had a little girl and boy, was sitting

crocheting. An old woman, active and weather-beaten, was getting supper

ready for her husband, a blind beggar, who shortly afterwards came in

led by a black dog. A woman tramp was getting supper ready for the

negro; she wore a wedding ring, but I question if she was his wife.

Several young children, almost babies, were running about, or playing

with the perambulator. A young man on the seat near us was tossing about

a fat baby born "on the road," whose healthiness we duly admired. It was

not his own, but belonged to a worried-looking woman, who also had a

troublesome boy. The next room was full of people, whom we could hear

but not see distinctly. The little boy of two caused much conversation,

as he was always doing something he should not, and caused disgust by

his uncleanliness, freely commented on. His mother made raids on him at

intervals, but neither cleanliness nor discipline was possible in such

surroundings. The most striking character, next to the negro, was a

girl, apparently about twenty. She wore a wedding ring, and belonged to

some man in the company, but from the character of her conversation I

doubt if she was married. The negro told some story, and she capped it

with another; evidently she was noted for her conversation, as she was

laughingly offered a pint to keep her tongue still! Her face would have

been handsome, but for a crooked nose and evident dissipation. All the

stories were more or less foul, and all the conversation, on every side,

was filthy or profane. The negro told how he had outwitted a harlot who

tried to rob him. The whole story of his visit to her house was related

in the most shameless way, with circumstantial details, no one appearing

to think anything of it. He told how he discovered where she kept her

money--in a flower-pot--and hid _his_ money there, shammed sleep, and

watched her surprise when she found nothing in his pockets, coolly took

all her money in the morning, driving off in a hansom after a good

breakfast. He _said_ he bought new clothes, and danced with her the same

night, being taken for a "toff," and hearing the story of her wrongs,

but refusing her blandishments! The girl told, sitting on the table near

the negro, how she had got her nose broken by an admirer and made him

pay for it. A conversation sprang up about the treatment of wives, and

it was stated that a woman loved a man best _if he ill-treated her_.

This theory was illustrated by examples well known to the company. The

girl related that she had lived in the same house with a man who used to

beat his wife. If he came home singing a certain song his wife knew she

was in for it. She used to try to hide, but one day he caught her and

beat her severely with a red-hot poker. The police got him, but _she

refused to bear witness against him_. Similar instances were given both

by men and women. Such sentiments augured no very good treatment for

wives of this class--in fact, the position of a mistress seemed

preferable. All the conversation was unspeakably foul, and was delivered

with a kind of cross-shouting, each struggling to make his or her

observations heard. A man read--or tried to read--amid frequent

interruptions, replied to by oaths, the story of the execution of the

Moat Farm murderer that morning, and other interesting police news,

freely commented on. Little children were running about all the while,

and older ones listening. As time went on more and more came in,

including the landlady and her children, and a married daughter with a

baby. It could not be possible for a woman to exercise any effective

control under such circumstances, as it would be her interest to keep

on good terms with her lodgers. The strongest man might be needed as a

"chucker-out" if there was a row. All present that night were "down in

their luck." A gala day at the park near by had been very unsuccessful

owing to the wet, and there was but little drink going; otherwise we

might have seen and heard still worse. One could imagine how swiftly a

brawl would arise. A rascally-looking "cadger" came in from his rounds,

and proved to be the father of the troublesome boy and husband of the

worried mother. He and a companion had been doing a regular beggar's

round, but had missed each other. His luck was so bad that his wife had

to borrow his supper. All the company except a few appeared to be of

that sort that preys upon society. The black man had been on board ship;

he was powerfully made, and looked cruel and lustful. I avoided his eye,

he kept staring at us. His mistress was, however, kind to us; she

brought us a mug of their tea, which we drank for courtesy with

considerable difficulty, eating some of our food with it. I suppose the

company thought us very poor, for almost everyone had something tasty

for supper, and the smell of fried bacon, onions, potatoes, and

beefsteak, the steam of cooking and drying clothes, mixed with tobacco

smoke and the stench of unclean humanity, grew more and more unbearable

as the doors were shut and all gathered in for the night. The continual

shouting made one's head ache, and no one seemed to think of putting a

child to bed. At last, about nine o'clock, we decided that upstairs

would be preferable. I may say that no one interfered with us or

questioned us, except one old woman, who was satisfied when we told her

that we had spent the last night in a Model, and were going on tramp to

a neighbouring town. She saw we were new to "the road," and descanted on

the _healthiness_ of the life, pointing to the baby in proof of it, and

assuring us we should "soon get accustomed to it." She told us this was

a very decent lodging-house, and that there were "nice, clean beds." We

hoped so, and asked the landlady to show us upstairs. After we left the

fun waxed still more fast and furious. Just before we went upstairs a

man in the inner room propounded the question, "Who was Adam's father?"

The conversation on the subject seemed to cause great amusement.

Afterwards they began to sing, not untunefully, various songs; amongst

others several hymns. I wished almost that we had stayed below to

ascertain what led to the singing of "Jesu, Lover of my soul." It

sounded odd, sung lustily by lips so full of profanity; yet I could not

but thank God that there was _One_ who loved sinners, and lived among

them.

Upstairs we found rooms full of beds, but we were to have a "cubicle."

Apparently it was the only one, and it was very imperfectly partitioned

off. The door fastened with a wooden button, but by the head of the bed

was an entrance, _without_ a door, to a compartment which held a bed

occupied by a man, this again being accessible by an entrance without a

door to the rest of the room. Anyone could therefore enter if so

disposed. Three beds, occupied by married couples and their children

(who shared the same bed), filled the room, and beyond was another

apartment crowded with beds, and, so far as we could see, without

partitions. The landlady told us not to mind the _man_ who slept in the

next bed, for he was blind! He slept there, and so did his dog. The

other occupants of the room, who came to bed later, we could not see,

but we could hear them plainly. From the conversation we think the

nigger and his mistress slept just outside, and next to them (no

partition) a married couple with a baby and a child. A third couple

would be round the corner. The room barely held the beds and partition,

with room to stand by the side; there was no ventilation but a chimney

close to our bed. We could hear someone continually scratching himself,

and the baby sucking frequently, and other sounds which shall be

nameless.

When we first went to bed, however, we were in peace, except for the

noise from below. We found our sheets were clean, and fortunately could

see no more by the light of the candle, without candle-stick, which our

landlady gave us. For two hours the noise went on downstairs; comic

songs and Sankey's hymns alternately came floating up the stair. Then,

at about eleven o'clock, suddenly everyone came to bed with a _rush_. It

almost seemed as if they were coming _on top_ of us, so great was the

noise, and all was so near. The blind man stumbled in so close, and

half-a-dozen people, all talking, got to bed close by. My companion woke

frightened and clutched me. A candle flickering in the next compartment

revealed a huge bug walking on the ceiling, which suddenly _dropped_

over a neighbouring bed! By degrees, however, the noises subsided, and

my companion and I fell into an uneasy slumber. I woke in an hour or

two, in dim daylight, to feel _crawlers_. The rest of the night was

spent in hunting. I had quite a collection by the time my companion

woke. They were on the bed and on the partition. I watched them making

for our clothes; but there was no escape till morning was fully come.

Besides, my companion was resting through it all; so I slew each one as

it appeared. We found that the clean sheets concealed a _filthy_ bed and

pillows.

About five o'clock two working men were roused by their wives'

admonitions, and got up to go to work. We rose at six o'clock, leaving

our neighbours still slumbering. We searched ourselves as well as we

could (with a sleeping man next door, audible if not visible). We could

see him if we stepped forward a pace.

We thankfully bundled up our things, including food, which we had

brought upstairs to be safe, and we crept downstairs, hoping for

cleanliness. The kitchen fire was lit--apparently it had never been

out--and a kettle was on the bar; a working man was getting his

breakfast ready; a girl, the landlady's daughter, apparently about 12,

was sweeping the floor. We could now _see_ the filth. The floor was

strewn with dirty paper, crumbs, and _débris_, and dirty sand. All the

cleaning it got was that it was swept and then freshly sanded by this

small child. It then _looked_ tidy. "Appearances" are proverbially

"deceitful." But what we were not prepared for was, that all the wooden

benches were occupied by _sleeping men_. The small child sweeping was at

first quite alone with them. There was no place to wash but the small

fireside sink: one man considerately cleared out from its neighbourhood,

and I thought we were alone in that half of the room till I looked and

saw a slumbering man on either side. They moved, as if uneasy on their

hard couches. Of course, it was utterly impossible to attempt

cleanliness, except hands and face. Yet our fellow-lodgers had some of

them lived there for weeks, and it was reckoned by their class a

_superior_ lodging-house. I can hardly describe the feeling of personal

contamination caused by even one night in such surroundings. Yet we

escaped well, finding afterwards only two live creatures on our clothes.

Cleanliness of person would be so _impossible_ under such circumstances

that it would soon cease to be _aimed_ at. Yet most of the inmates had

fairly clean hands and faces, and the tiny sink was used for washing

clothes, which were dried in the room, and were hanging overnight from

lines. Is it any wonder that such places are hot-beds of disease? How

can one of this class possibly avoid spreading contagion under such bad

sanitary conditions? It struck me that public money would be well spent

in providing lodging-house accommodation under good sanitation and

management, rather than in extending small-pox hospitals.

We did not feel inclined for breakfast, but the kettle was boiling, and

a working-man showed us where to find things. We carefully washed the

dirty-looking tea-pot and mugs, and borrowed a knife and spoon: no one

insulted or questioned us. If our stay had been longer, however,

doubtless we should have been obliged to get on friendly terms with our

fellow-lodgers. We ate our food at the table farthest from the sleeping

men, the sweeping still going on, and then we bundled up our things and

left without seeing our landlady again.

The fresh air was sweet. Nowhere inside _could_ be clean. Vermin might

harbour in the wooden seating, doubly used by day and night: the

imperfectly washed clothes, the _un_washed humanity, the crowding, the

absence of proper sanitation, would break down personal cleanliness in a

very short time if a respectable woman was forced to sleep in such a

place. Yet two shillings and fourpence a week, at fourpence a night,

should surely finance some better provision for the needs of a migatory

class. It must be considered that social conditions have entirely

altered since the days of railway travelling have loosened social ties

to particular neighbourhoods. Work is a fluctuating quantity, and men

and women have to travel.

My own experience had taught me that single women frequently get shaken

out of a home by bereavements or other causes, and drift, unable to

recover a stable position if once their clothing becomes dirty or

shabby. The question, To what circumstances and surroundings will a

respectable destitute woman drift if without employment? is one which

concerns society deeply, as immorality must be fostered by wrong

conditions.

III. A FIRST NIGHT IN THE WORKHOUSE TRAMP WARD.

We were glad that the next ordeal before us would be the workhouse bath!

For we were now really "destitute"; after purchasing a little more food

we had only twopence left. We were so jaded by the imperfect sleep of

the two last nights that we decided not to leave the town, but to wait

about all day, and enter the workhouse at six o'clock. We had noticed a

reading room and a park: to the latter we found our way. The day was

gloomy and damp, but not actually wet, except for a slight drizzle at

intervals. In the park we found shelter, drinking water, and sanitary

convenience. We disturbed a sleeping man in a summer-house, and quickly

left him. We wandered into every nook in the park, and talked, rested,

or slept. The hours went very slowly, but we grew refreshed. Towards

mid-day we made a frugal meal on our remaining provisions, drinking from

a fountain. We still had a little sugar-plasmon left and a pinch of tea.

In the afternoon, growing cold and stiff, we went to the free library,

and stayed there reading an hour or two. Two or three ladies were there

reading, but they took no notice of us beyond a stare; we had put our

shawls over our heads, and might be taken for mill-hands. As soon as we

thought it was time we set off to find the workhouse. It was about two

miles, as near as we can guess, from the centre of the town, and on the

way to it we made the acquaintance of an old woman who was going there.

She was lame in one leg with rheumatism, and walked slowly, and she also

stopped to beg at houses _en route_. She got a cup of tea and a glass of

hot milk between the town and the workhouse. She was walking from P----

to H---- to find her brother, having been in the workhouse infirmary for

many months. She said she had received a letter from her brother,

offering her a home if she would come to him. She lost his address and

could not write, so she had no resource but to walk from workhouse to

workhouse till she reached her destination. She was very tired, and

groaned with pain during the night, and almost lost heart and turned

back, but in the morning she plucked up courage to go on. She had the

advantage of being too infirm to be made to work hard, and she evidently

knew how to beg food. She seemed a decent woman, and had reared a large

family of children, who were all married, and had "enough to do for

themselves." Her brother, she said, was in comfortable circumstances,

and she would be all right if she found him. Her clothing was well

mended, but not clean.

We arrived, alone, a few minutes before six, at the workhouse lodge,

which stood all by itself down a long lane which ended in iron gates.

This lodge was very small, and was occupied by a man, the workhouse

buildings being a little way off. There were a good many trees around,

and it was a pretty spot, but lonely. The man was a male pauper, and no

one else was in sight. We had to enter his hut to answer questions,

which he recorded in a book, and we were then out of sight of the house.

The nearest building was the tramp ward, the door of which stood open;

but there was no one in it, as we afterwards found. A single woman would

be completely at the mercy of this man. If our pilgrimage has had no

other result, I shall be glad to be able to expose the positive wrong of

allowing a male pauper, in a lonely office, to admit the female tramps.

When we first arrived at the gate he told us to wait a few minutes, as

we were before time. Some male tramps came up, and we saw him send away

one poor, utterly ragged man, who begged pitifully to be admitted. The

lodge-keeper told him he could not claim because he had been in that

workhouse within the month. So he limped away. He could not possibly

reach another workhouse that night. The man admitted three others, and

sent them on to the male quarters. He let us in at five minutes to six.

We thought this was kind, as he might have kept us waiting, and it had

begun to rain. He took my friend's name, occupation, age, where she came

from, and her destination, and then sent her on, rather imperatively, to

the tramp ward. She stood at the door, some way off, waiting for me. He

kept me inside his lodge, and began to take the details. He talked to me

in what I suppose he thought a very agreeable manner, telling me he

wished I had come alone earlier, and he would have given me a cup of

tea. I thanked him, wondering if this was usual, and then he took my

age, and finding I was a married woman (I must use his exact words), he

said, "Just the right age for a bit of funning; come down to me later in

the evening." I was too horror-struck to reply; besides, I was in his

power, with no one within call but my friend, and all the conditions

unknown and strange. Probably silence was best; he took it for consent,

and, as other tramps were coming, let me pass on. I made a mental vow to

expose him before I left the place. He took my bundle, and asked if I

had any money. I gave him my last penny. I received a wooden token for

the bundle. I then joined my friend, and told her she had better give up

her umbrella and her penny. She went to do so after some tramps had

passed, and though I stood and waited, and she was only gone a moment,

he tried to kiss her as she gave him the things!

When she joined me, very indignant, we went forward into an oblong room

containing six bedsteads with wire mattresses and filthy straw pillows.

A wooden table and bench and "Regulations for Tramps" were the remaining

articles of furniture. There were big, rather low, windows on three

sides; the bottom panes were frosted, except one, which had been broken

and mended with plain glass, and overlooked the yard where the male

tramps worked. Presently our wayfaring friend arrived, and we all three

sat and waited a considerable time. A solitary woman might have been at

the mercy of the man at the gate some time. No one was in sight, or came

near us, till at last a motherly-looking woman entered by a door leading

to a room beyond. She asked us if we were clean. Our fellow-traveller

(whose garments were at any rate _not_ clean) was let off, as she had

spent the last night in a workhouse tramp ward. We said _we_ should like

a bath, and were shown into a bath-room and allowed to bathe ourselves.

Our clothes were taken from us, and we were given blue nightgowns. These

looked fairly clean, but had been worn before. They were dirty round the

neck, and stained in places; we _hoped_ they had been stoved! The old

woman dressed in one without bathing. We found in the morning that both

blankets and nightgowns were folded up and put away on shelves, just as

we found them, apparently, and left for new comers. We were told that

the blankets were "often stoved," but I have since ascertained that they

are not stoved at all workhouses every day. All kinds of personal vermin

might be left in them by a tramp who went straight out of dirty clothes

to bed, and even a bath might leave them open to suspicion. We saw

several bugs on the ceiling in this ward. Perhaps the using of others'

dirty nightgowns was the most revolting feature in our tramp. At neither

workhouse were the garments handed to us _clean_. We found afterwards

that by Government regulation clean bath water and a clean garment can

be _demanded_, but this we did not know. It should be _supplied_. After

the bath we were each given four blankets and told to make our beds and

get into them. The art of bed-making on a wire mattress, without any

other mattress to cover it, is a difficult one, even with four blankets.

The regulation number is two, and with these I fancy the best plan would

be to roll yourself round and lie on the mattress. For the wire

abstracts heat from the body, and _one_ is an insufficient protection.

Even with one spread all over and another doubled under the body and two

above I woke many times cold. In winter the ward is warmed by hot-water

pipes, but the blankets are the same. A plank bed, such as is given in

some workhouses, would probably be warmer, though harder. Put to bed,

like babies, at about half-past six, the kind woman in charge brought us

our food. We felt rather more cheerful after our bath, with the large,

airy room, instead of the foul, common lodging-house; only one thing had

exercised my mind--"What did that pauper mean by my going to him later?"

However, I told the portress all about what he said. She was very

indignant, and said I must tell the superintendent of the tramp ward

next morning, that she had to leave us, but would take good care to lock

us in, and I need not be afraid, he could not get at us. We were _very_

hungry, having had nothing to eat since about twelve o'clock. Anything

eatable would be welcome, and we were also thirsty. We were given a

small lading-can three parts full of hot gruel and a thick crust of

bread. The latter we were _quite_ hungry enough to eat, but when we

tasted the gruel it was _perfectly saltless_. A salt-box on the table,

into which many fingers had been dipped was brought us; the old woman

said we were "lucky to get that." But we had no _spoons_; it was

impossible to mix the salt properly into the ocean of nauseous food. I

am fond of gruel, and in my hunger and thirst could easily have taken

it if fairly palatable. But I could only cast in a few grains of salt

and drink a little to moisten the dry bread; my companion could not

stomach it at all, and the old woman, being accustomed to workhouse

ways, had a little tea in her pocket, and got the kind attendant to pour

the gruel down the w.c. and infuse her tea with hot water from the bath

tap. We were then left locked in alone, at eight o'clock, when no more

tramps would be admitted. The bath-room, containing our clothes, was

locked; the closet was left unlocked; a pail was also given us for

sanitary purposes. We had no means of assuaging the thirst which grew

upon us as the night went on; for dry bread, even if washed down with

thin gruel, is very provocative of thirst. I no longer wonder that

tramps beg twopence for a drink and make for the nearest public-house.

Left alone, we could hear outside the voice of the porter. I wondered if

he expected us to open a window. However, we stayed quiet, but had one

"scare." Suddenly a door at the end of the room was unlocked, and a

_man_ put his head in! He only asked, "how many?" and when we answered

"Three," he locked us in speedily. I could not, however, get to sleep

for a long time after finding that a _man_ had the key of our room,

especially as our elderly friend had told us of another workhouse where

the portress left the care of the female tramps to a man almost

entirely, and she added that "he did what he liked with them." I

expressed horror at such a state of things, but she assured me it was

so, and warned us not on any account to go into that workhouse. She

said, however, that it was some time since she had been there, and

"things might be different."

At last my companions slept the sleep of weariness. Sounds outside had

ceased; within, my friend coughed and the old woman groaned and shifted.

The trees waved without the windows, and two bugs slowly crawled on the

ceiling. I measured distances with my eye. They would not drop on _my_

bed! I pity the tramp who has only two blankets on a wire mattress. I

could not get thoroughly warm with four; some part of me seemed

constantly to feel the cold wire meshes through the thin covering. The

floor would be preferable. I have been told since at one workhouse, with

considerable surprise on the part of the portress, that the male tramps

prefer the floor to their plank bed! I do not wonder. The pillow was too

dirty to put one's face on, so I covered it with a blanket.

In this workhouse the management was lax--too lax to ensure cleanliness;

clothes and towels appeared to have been used, and blankets were

probably unstoved. As our own clothes are taken away and locked up, it

would be impossible for a tramp to wash any article of personal

clothing. Consequently she must tramp on, growing day by day more dirty,

in spite of baths, especially as _really dirty_ work is required of her

in return for "board and lodging!" There was no comb for the hair;

fortunately we had one in our pocket.

In the morning we were roused about seven o'clock and told to dress. Our

clothes were in the bath-room. We had the luxury of a morning wash. Our

garments had been left on the floor just as we took them off, and so

were our companion's, which looked decidedly unclean by daylight. The

kind attendant said she had to go, but waited till I had told the

portress (who arrived to set us our task) the conduct of the man at the

gate, and I claimed her protection, as I should have to pass him when

going out. Both exclaimed when I told his words, and one said, "Plenty

of cups of tea I expect he's given, the villain!" The portress assured

me she would watch me out, and that I need not fear him, as he daren't

touch me when she was there, and she said that after I had gone she

should report him.

Before this happened, however, we had our breakfast given us, which was

exactly a repetition of supper--saltless gruel and dry bread. We ate as

much as we could and were very thirsty. I had drunk some water with my

hand from the bath-room tap as soon as I got up. We put what bread we

could not eat into our pocket as a supply for the day, and were told to

empty the rest of our gruel down the w.c. It thus disappeared; but what

waste! A mug of coffee or tea would at least have washed down the dry

bread; or a quarter of the quantity of gruel, properly made, would have

been acceptable, with a mug of cold water for a proper drink.

The following list shows how we had spent our money:--

Lodging, first night 6_d_.

Lodging, second night 8_d_.

Loaf 2-1/2_d_.

Two cobs 3_d_.

1 brown cob 1-1/2_d_.

1 tea-cake 1_d_.

1/4-lb. butter 4_d_.

1/4-lb. cheese 2_d_.

In hand 2_d_.

We ate the cheese for dinner for two days. I do not think we could have

kept our strength up for five days' tramping if it had not been for the

plasmon mixed with our sugar, which we ate on our bread and butter or

drank in our tea. My companion was very exhausted before evening this

day, and her cough troubled her a great deal. Another week of this life

would have made us both thoroughly ill. It is not only exposure and poor

food, but _anxiety_ as to the next night's experience, that tells on the

mind. Yet we knew that in two nights we should be no longer friendless.

Pity the poor woman who has _no home_. Is it not almost inevitable that

she should sink?

As we had now no food, we were glad to appropriate the remainder of our

workhouse bread, putting it in our pocket. We should have nothing else

that day, for the portress told us when we had done our work we might

go out at eleven o'clock. We thanked her--we had expected to stay

another night, and perhaps pick oakum, but we should have almost starved

on the food, as our sugar was in our bundle, so we were relieved to find

we had only to clean the tramp ward and go. We were told to "_sweep_ the

ward and make all clean." We did not think of _scrubbing_ the room,

which, as it was large, would have been a big task, but the portress

afterwards scolded us for not doing so. It was not dirty, so we swept

it, cleaned the taps, bath, and wash-basins, washed up the pots, dusted,

and, having made all tidy (except that we could find nowhere to empty

our dust-pan, unless it was the w.c.), we waited for release. We sat on

the form, and when the portress came in and saw us sitting down she

spoke to us very sharply. I suppose she did not like to see us idle. We

told her we would have scrubbed the floor if we had known we ought; but

we did not know, as we had never been in a workhouse before. She was

somewhat mollified, and let us off with a mild scolding some time before

eleven o'clock. She stood at the door and watched us receive our things

from the male pauper and leave the gates. He hastened to give us them

without a word, and also restored our two pennies. We said farewell at

the end of the lane to our companion, who was going the opposite way,

and commenced our tramp. We expected the next workhouse to be about

four miles away, in a town which we knew lay between us and our final

destination. But it turned out that the Union we were leaving and the

Union on the outskirts of the town to which we were ultimately bound

absorbed all the paupers from the intervening places, though of

considerable size. So we had really a very long walk before us; but, not

knowing this, as it was very gloomy and inclined to rain heavily, we

thought we had better seek shelter. We bought some butter with a penny,

and walked on to find a quiet place to eat something, as it was some

hours since we had had breakfast. We could not find anywhere but a damp

stone wall in some fields. There we _feasted_ on bread and butter and

plasmon sugar; but we were _very_ thirsty, so we took courage to beg, as

we had a screw of tea left. I went to a cottage and asked for a drink.

There was a boiling kettle on the fire, so I said we had a little tea of

our own, and the kind young woman, who had a blind old father, made us

tea and sweetened and milked it for us. I knew the town to which we were

going well, so we talked about the changes in it of recent years, as I

was "returning to friends there." She did not know the distance of the

next workhouse, but told us about the intervening towns. We left

refreshed, but it was beginning to rain, so we walked on, looking for

shelter. We saw a church surrounded by trees standing all by itself,

with a large graveyard. This looked a hopeful spot, so we made for it,

though it was rather out of our route. There we stayed an hour or two,

sheltering under trees or in the porch, and eating the last of our

workhouse bread about one o'clock. Part of the time it rained very

heavily, and though it was summer time we felt cold. At last the rain

moderated, and we set off for a steady tramp.

IV. A SECOND NIGHT IN THE WORKHOUSE TRAMP WARD.

The miles between us and our destination seemed to _grow_ as walked. The

replies we got varied from four miles to eight; we discovered that some

were directing us _back_ to the union we had come from. I do not know

what the distance really was, but if we added up the distances we were

told it must have been nearly eleven miles. I believe we went

considerably out of our direct route. We had come about two miles, and

after we began to tramp in earnest we only rested a short time once or

twice to dodge heavy showers. We were walking from about two o'clock

till nearly eight before we reached the workhouse, but my companion grew

so weary she could only crawl, and I pushed her up the long, long hills.

We seemed to go up and up, and always a long hill in front. We _had_ to

give up trying to dodge the rain, and walk steadily on through the wet,

which grew worse and worse. We were very wet indeed before we reached

the shelter of the Union, and only just in time to be admitted. I feared

we should have been left shelterless. The workhouse was in such an

out-of-the-way place that it was hard to find; we thought we should

never find it, and grew very discouraged, but could not walk faster. To

ease our minds we told each other the story of our lives from childhood,

taking turns as we got tired and out of breath. We had now had no food

for nearly seven hours. At last we came to a dirty lane, by the side of

a high stone embankment, leading to big gates. We plunged down it; our

feet by this time were soaked and our shawls nearly wet through. With

some difficulty we found the lodge, a large, substantial stone building,

with an office occupied by a single man. He looked more respectable than

the other one, and asked us the questions in a straightforward

matter-of-fact way that was a pleasant contrast. He told us to sit on a

seat and wait for the portress. We sat for quite a quarter of an hour in

our wet things. Two young men, who seemed to be related to officials and

familiar with the place, passed through; otherwise we were quite alone

with this man, and he began to talk in a familiar and most disagreeable

manner. He asked me where my husband was, and insinuated that I had been

leading an immoral life. He said a married woman needed to "sleep warm."

He told us he was a pauper and lived there, asked how we liked his

house, said if there was one woman "he often shared his breakfast with

her." He produced a screw of salt and gave it us as a favour. Being

_two_ we were protection to each other, and passed off the conversation

as well as we could, telling him that we were not of _that_ sort, that

we had only taken shelter, and were going to friends. He said he hoped

he should see us in the morning. _We_ hoped not. He told us the portress

often kept a single woman more than two days to do her cleaning, giving

her rather better food. We dared not offend him. What might happen to a

single woman alone with such men?

At last, to our great relief, the portress came. She was comparatively

young, dressed somewhat like a nurse, very quick and sharp, and

evidently she had many other duties, and this part of her work was

distasteful to her. She was very cross at being summoned so late, and

said at first we ought not to have been admitted, as it was past eight;

but the man told her we had been waiting. We should have been glad of a

little of "the milk of human kindness" in our wet, weary condition, but

we were "only tramps," and were ordered about sharply. She told us to

follow her to the bath-room. It was a stone-floored room at the end of a

stone passage, from which led out four stone cells. Each contained a

bed, and was imperfectly lighted by a square aperture, high up, leading

into the passage. The walls were stone, spotlessly whitewashed. She

asked what we had got in our pockets, but did not search us. She took

our bundles and asked how much money we had, but did not take our

solitary penny. She insisted on a bath, and watched us undress, telling

us to leave our clothes, and giving us nightdresses doubtfully clean.

(The necks were _dirty_.) We hurried for fear of offending her. She

asked if we would sleep together or alone, as the beds were double. We

were glad to be together. My friend said she should have cried all night

if shut up alone in one of these prison-like cells. I was ready first,

and was given four blankets. To walk on a stone floor straight from a

warm bath in a thin cotton night-dress and make your bed is not very

nice. But I have since seen nightdresses made of rough bathing flannel,

and as broad as they are short! I suppose "anything is good enough for

tramps." It is hardly realised that respectable destitute women might

have no other shelter. The conditions are such that probably few do

apply. The accommodation at this workhouse, which appeared to be a large

one--four cells, with beds for a possible eight--showed that few

probably applied at that Union, while the porter said that often there

was only one. Yet there are many destitute women, as Homes and Shelters

show. Are they forced into the common lodging-houses--or worse? The bed

was a most peculiar affair. In addition to the wire mattress it had a

_wire_ pillow, and _no other_. This was a flat, woven wire _shelf_

raised a few inches above the mattress. Its discomforts were still to be

experienced.

I made this curious bed as well as I could, spreading one blanket over

it and the pillow, doubling another for our backs, and reserving two to

cover us. We got into bed and were given the regulation mugs of porridge

and thick slices of dry bread. We were then locked in and left. We had

one spoon between us. There was no light except from the aperture, but

it was not yet dark. We were prisoners indeed, and a plank bed would

have been more comfortable. The pillow was a cruel invention--it was

impossible to place one's head upon it; the edge cut the back of your

neck, even through a blanket, and the rough meshes hurt your face. We

could not spare a blanket to double up for a pillow, we were cold as it

was; the blankets underneath barely kept off the rough wires, and two

were little enough to cover in a cold stone cell. The pillow was a

torture; we finally put our heads _under_ it and lay flat, screwed up

into any position that gave ease. Over our heads was a framed motto and

verses about "Jesus only." I wondered whether _He_ would think this the

proper lodging for a "stranger!" We were thirsty and hungry--but alas!

when we tasted our gruel, our _only_ drink, it was sweetened to

nauseousness with treacle! It was, indeed, to all intents and purposes

"treacle posset." Anyone with a grain of common sense can realise the

effect on the system of taking this sort of stuff immediately after a

warm bath, following a wetting. In fact, the diet produced a peculiarly

loosened feeling in the skin, as if all the pores were open, which made

it very hard to work. I usually perspire little, but next morning,

while working, I was again and again in a profuse perspiration, and this

produced a feeling of weakness, and culminated in a sharp attack of

diarrhoea--fortunately after I had reached my friends. Anyone who

thinks will see that this would only be a natural result of the diet

with many people. We were terribly hungry, and ate our bread; this made

us still more thirsty, but there was nothing to quench our thirst but

the thick, sweet gruel--very good in quality, but most nauseous. The

thirst we suffered from that night can be imagined better than

described. "I was thirsty and ye gave me no drink," kept running through

my mind whenever I turned my eyes up to spell out the words of "Jesus

only." This was our worst night; we were very weary, but could get no

ease; we fell into restless slumber, to wake again and again from thirst

or cold or some pain caused by our uneasy couch. Long before we were

called we were wide awake, longing to get up. About six o'clock,

probably, our cell door was unlocked, and we were told to dress. We

hastened to the bath-room and drank eagerly at the tap. Our wet clothes

were lying just where we left them. They were still quite damp and our

boots wet through. Had we known, we might have left them in a rather

different position, on some hot pipes; but we thought they were sure to

be stoved, as the portress knew we had taken shelter from pouring rain.

We had told her we could not reach our friends in the neighbouring town

because of it. There was nothing to do but to put our wet things on and

set to work. A woman brought us a pair of men's boots, very damp, with

blacking and brushes, and told us to polish them for her before we had

our breakfast. We did this, which doubtless was extra, and were rewarded

with a mug of her coffee, with one mug of the same sort of gruel, and

two thick slices of bread. The coffee was such a treat. I have made some

enquiries since, and have found at least one workhouse where the gruel

is replaced by coffee, though this is contrary to regulations. The

reason given is that the tramps never eat the gruel, and frequently

_throw_ it about, and even at one another, making a great mess! Also,

being made in summer overnight, it turns sour, and "is not fit for

pigs!" Is any comment needed? How many tons of good oatmeal must be

wasted every year! It is _absolute_ waste, as we were again told to

empty our mugs of the night before down the w.c., and put them away

clean. So not even the pigs have the benefit of it!

There was no room to sit in, or seat, except a short form, just big

enough for two, in the bath-room. No table--and mugs and bread were put

on a window-sill. We sat on the form by a window, a few inches open,

that looked on some shrubs, and as we sat there a man--a pauper--passed

and stared in. We moved away. He went, and we again took our seats, but

presently he returned and stood staring in. We had fled to either side

when we saw him coming, but presently my friend _peeped_, and there he

was, standing staring in. She gave him some sharp words and ordered him

off; he disappeared, but evidently this was a means of communication

between men and women. The window, however, would not open wide, but

conversation would be easy. Presently the portress came, very brisk and

sharp. I was told to clean and stone a larder some distance off. We had

already done a little work while waiting. Knowing we should have to do

it, we folded our blankets, washed our pots, and cleaned the bath-room

taps. All was made clean and tidy when the portress came, but we were

not to get off so easily! My friend was told to stone the place

completely through, including the three cells not used (which looked

clean), to black-lead the hot-water pipes all down the passage, dust

everywhere thoroughly, and clean the step. Meanwhile I had first to do

some shelves and then stone a spiral stair and the floor of a small

larder, and then go on to other work. I think, probably, the work we did

would have taken the ordinary tramp a full day, and earned another bed

and breakfast. But we did not dawdle, but worked steadily on, and

pleased the portress so much that eventually she said we might go that

day. We could not finish our task by eleven, so she kindly gave us our

dinner and let us go after it, saying we should have time to reach our

friends. Evidently she saw we were above the usual tramp, and our work

pleased her. She asked us a few questions, but our answers, that we were

tramping from L---- to B----, having come short of money before we

reached our friends, satisfied her, being true. This portress came

backwards and forwards pretty frequently, and so did our acquaintance of

the previous night, who seemed to have numerous errands by the larder

where I was cleaning, but I neither looked at him nor spoke, so he did

not make any advances. It would have been easy to "carry on" with him in

the intervals between the times when the portress came. The woman pauper

who brought in the boots was, however, to be seen within call, in a room

near by, the door of which was open, so I felt protected. She was a

decent woman and kind to us. She said she "didn't do it for everyone,"

when she afterwards brought us part of her dinner. After finishing the

larder, the portress set me to turn out bundles, which were stacked in

compartments on either side of a long, high room, right up to the

ceiling. I had a high pair of steps, and was to take each bundle out and

dust it with a brush, sweep out the compartment, and replace it. Each

parcel, as a rule, was wrapped in rough linen wrappings, but a

considerable number of things were unparcelled, and some dirty and

foul-smelling--probably they had been only stoved and put away. All the

bundles which were not tightly tied were more or less moth-eaten. It

made my heart ache to see these clothes in such a state, remembering

that they were all that some poor people possessed. I had often noticed

the lack of care with regard to destitute women's clothing, having

fetched girls out of the workhouse whose clothes were so crumpled, even

when decent, that everyone stared at them--and had received from poor

people many complaints that their clothes were lost or spoiled. After

seeing the state of this store-room I can well believe it. Behind the

bundles were cobwebs simply festooned with moths. They had attacked the

bundles at every opening. The coverings kept them off, but some bundles

were rotten, and one sad thing was that if a bundle was rather more

respectable, and contained more clothes, it was not so tightly tied, and

was, therefore, more open to attack. Besides, not a few things were

quite unprotected and swarming. The place was heated with pipes. A

better breeding ground for moths could hardly be imagined. Yet a simple

expedient would have prevented _most_ of the mischief. If each bundle

had been provided with _two_ wrappers, and the second one tied over the

openings of the first, the moths could not get in. Besides this,

however, the whole should be examined more frequently. I turned out more

than a hundred bundles, and was then told to simply _dust down the

front_ of the remainder. Doubtless this had been done often, and all

_looked_ right. I showed the portress, however, so many moth-eaten

bundles that she said she must have them all stoved. She came and said

I might stone the floor and finish, my companion having finished about

the same time. We had rough aprons given us to work in; but I should

like to mention, as a subject for thought, that all this rough, hard

work naturally made our clothes dirty, and would soon wear them out. We

were, after only two nights in workhouse tramp wards, far more dirty and

disreputable in our clothing than when we left home. The sleeves of my

blouse were very dirty by this time. Yet in the workhouse, as bundles

are confiscated, there is no chance to change, and no opportunity to

wash a garment. One is "between Scylla and Charybdis!" In the common

lodging-house you can wash your clothes, but not yourself; in the

workhouse tramp ward you can wash yourself, but not your clothes!

We had bread and cheese given us for dinner; we had our bundles given

us, and mashed our last tea with water from the bath tap. The kind woman

brought us part of her dinner, telling us to return the plate and not

let the portress see it. We then got leave to go. The portress was in

the lodge, and we passed out without remark.

Once more we were free!--but very exhausted. We felt completely tired

out, and struggling up the dirty lane we found a reservoir and some

public seats. We took turns to rest, lying on a seat, for some men were

about, and kept walking backwards and forwards and laughing at us. The

ground was damp, so it was no use seeking a more sheltered place. We

rested an hour or two, till we began to grow cold.

V. A NIGHT IN A WOMAN'S SHELTER.

We knew that three good miles lay between us and our friends, but we

were also a day beforehand, as we had expected to be detained two

nights. What to do for this last night considerably exercised us! Should

we give in, and go to our friends a day earlier? This would be to lose

an opportunity for research which might be long in recurring. Should we

go to another workhouse? This would be to risk detention over Sunday.

Should we try a night in the open? I knew the neighbourhood fairly well,

and it might be possible to find shelter; but the weather was gloomy and

damp, and it would hardly do to risk making an appearance in a police

court when I had been announced to speak publicly on Sunday evening. So

we determined to walk on, and, if we could not find any other

alternative, to pawn our spare shawl for a night's lodging. Only we

neither of us cared to face a common lodging-house; it would be hardly

fair to our friends to arrive at civilisation straight from such

surroundings. At any rate, we had the rest of the day for experiment,

some workhouse bread, some plasmon sugar, and _one penny_! We went to a

park, and spent part of the afternoon sheltering from rain, and then

pushed on for the town. I passed the houses of friends who would have

stared indeed to see me, but probably no one would have recognised us.

It got near tea-time, and we tried again and again to spend our last

penny on _butter_. No one would sell us a pennyworth, so finally we went

to the third-class waiting-room of the station and ate our bread with

plasmon sugar. Here our problem was solved! We saw by a notice that

there was a "Woman's Shelter": beds 3_d_., 4_d_. and 5_d_. Just the

thing! Here was a new and final experiment: we should not have to give

in! So we went out to search for the shelter and a pawnbroker's, and

easily found both; we changed our best shawl for the poor one that

covered our bundle, but would do as a substitute, and pawned the

shawl--which had cost 8_s_. 11_d_.--for 2_s_. 6_d_. We were then

"passing rich"! We enquired at the shelter, which had only just been

re-opened after the small-pox epidemic, and after engaging two fourpenny

beds we went to a coffee-house near by, and indulged in the luxury of

two half-pints of tea; my friend had some sausage and I a tea-cake

_buttered_. After this welcome meal we returned to the shelter. It was a

great relief to find ourselves once more in a decent place, and with

women only. I cannot too highly commend this shelter as being _just the

thing needed for the class it provides for_.[83] It was not a _charity_,

though doubtless not wholly self-supporting. We paid for what we

received, and were free to come and go unquestioned. Particulars were

entered similar to those in the workhouse (in addition, we were asked

the address to which we were going). Women could enter up to eleven at

night. The place was a converted mill. The basement consisted of a

large, comfortable kitchen, with a large stove, benches and tables and

shelves. There was also a well-appointed lavatory, deep basins, plenty

of hot and cold water, a wringing machine for clothes, and baths could

be had _free_. We easily begged a bucket to wash our tired feet. There

was _everything necessary for personal cleanliness_, and in the presence

of women only (especially as only one or two were in the lavatory),

changes of clothing could be made. The women were friendly and cheerful,

and appeared to appreciate their privileges. There was no _restraint_,

but a pleasant, elderly woman in charge sat in the kitchen and prevented

foul talk and brawls. Upstairs was a large, pleasant hall, with a piano.

Some women of a better class apparently preferred this, and sat working.

This also was easily supervised, without its being noticeable, by the

presence of someone in the adjoining office. We could go to bed at nine,

ten, or eleven, but not between, so that the bedrooms were only

disturbed at these hours. Three stories above contained bedrooms--large,

airy rooms, with beds at graded prices. The w.c.'s were in a yard out of

an upper story, and were clean and well flushed.

Altogether I was most thankful for this opportunity of seeing just the

sort of provision for migrating women which should exist in _every_

town. Even if some of the inmates were immoral, they were in no

temptation at least while there. One woman told another she knew she had

given way to drink, but was glad to get back to "the old place," and

there appeared to be some who lived there who tried as much as they

could to exercise a good influence. There was a "Sankey" on the piano,

and I played a few tunes as well as I could without spectacles; this was

warmly appreciated, and several joined in singing, my stumbling playing

suiting my condition of "having seen better days!" Some young ladies

passed through and said, "Who is she?" but made no further remark.

We went to bed at nine. My bed was clean, but my companion's was dirty,

and a very dirty woman slept next, who had had drink, and got out

frequently in the night, and _sat_ on my friend's bed. She saw some

vermin, but I saw none, and slept very fairly well. People came in at

ten, and at eleven a woman and some children came in, and settled down

rather noisily. Room-mates got out of bed at intervals, and early trams

ran outside, and some got up early, but on the whole we had a good night

compared with other experiences. The cleanliness of the floor left

something to be desired, and we were told to make our beds before we

went downstairs; so they would be left for the next comer, clean or

unclean. We heard several expressions of thankfulness for the place,

only one woman said, "They only did what they were paid for, and she

didn't see that it was much charity." We found our way downstairs for a

wash, and after sitting a little while in the kitchen we went to the

neighbouring coffee tavern for breakfast. After this we had still 1_s_.

1-1/2_d_. left out of our 2_s_. 6_d_., and some spare provision,

including some workhouse bread. The remainder we decided to spend on

making ourselves _respectable_. It may be thought that this would be

difficult, but by a little contrivance we managed to make ourselves

sufficiently presentable to elude scrutiny, and to pass for shabby

tourists on a "walking expedition." Our luggage had been sent on, and

supplies of money awaited us. Therefore the only problem was that of

changing from "tramps" to "tourists." Bad weather would account for

boots and untidiness. We found a cheap shop, and bought a hat and

trimmings, tie, and belt for a shilling. My friend put on a more

respectable underskirt of mine over her linsey petticoat. Her hat and

shawl would pass muster. My new hat, tie, and belt "converted" me into a

lady! We went to a park to trim the hat with pins, which we bought for a

halfpenny. There we remained till afternoon, dining on our remaining

bread, except what we gave to the swans. Immediately overlooking this

park friends lived who little guessed that one who was to visit them

shortly was dining under their windows as a "destitute woman!" Our

destitution was, however, at an end, and with hearts full of

thankfulness at the successful issue of our research expedition we found

our way at the appointed time to the house where we were expected by a

friend, who thought she quite understood our desire for a speedy change

of apparel after our "walking tour!"

These latter experiences of eluding questions caused us some amusement.

But _supposing_ we had had no friends, no cheerful welcome, no waiting

supplies. What could we have done? Before us would have stretched, in

grey monotony, the life of poverty, a possible search for uncertain

work, a gradual pawning of every available article for food, more

workhouses, more common lodging-houses. The last article gone,

cleanliness lost, clothing dilapidated or dirty--what then?

To wander helpless and homeless, driven to tramp, or to descend still

farther into vice. From such a life "_facilis descensus Averni_."[84]

FOOTNOTES:

[82] See Appendix VII.

[83] See p. 30.

[84] See Appendix VII.

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