At sunset we encamped on a rocky island of most fantastic form, like a
Z. They pitched my tent on a height, and close to the door was a
precipitous descent into a hollow, where they lighted vast fires, and
thus kept off the mosquitoes, which were in great force. I slept well,
but towards morning some creature crept into my tent and over my bed--a
snake, as I supposed; after this I slept no more.
We started at half-past four. Hitherto the weather had been glorious;
but this morning the sun rose among red and black clouds, fearfully
ominous. As we were turning a point under some lofty rocks, we heard the
crack of a rifle, and saw an Indian leaping along the rocks, and down
towards the shore. We rowed in, not knowing what it meant, and came upon
a night-camp of Indians, part of the tribe of Aisence (the Clam). They
had only hailed us to make some trifling inquiries; and I heard Louis,
sotto voce, send them _au diable_!--for now the weather lowered darker
and darker, and every moment was precious.
We breakfasted on an island almost covered with flowers, some gorgeous,
and strange, and unknown, and others sweet and familiar; plenty of the
wild pea, for instance, and wild-roses, of which I had many offerings. I
made my toilette in a recess among some rocks; but just as I was
emerging from my primitive dressing-room, I felt a few drops of rain,
and saw too clearly that our good fortune was at an end. We swallowed a
hasty breakfast, and had just time to arrange ourselves in the canoe
with all the available defences of cloaks and umbrellas, when the rain
came down heavily and hopelessly. But notwithstanding the rain and the
dark gray sky, the scenery was even more beautiful than ever. The
islands were larger, and assumed a richer appearance; the trees were of
more luxuriant growth, no longer the dwarfed pine, but lofty oak and
maple. These are called the Bear Islands, from the number of those
animals found upon them; old Solomon told me that an Indian whom he knew
had shot nine bears in the course of a single day. We found three bears'
heads stuck upon the boughs of a dead pine--probably as offerings to the
souls of the slaughtered animals, or to the "Great Spirit," both being
usual.
We dined on a wet rock, almost covered with that species of lichen which
the Indians call wa,ac, and the Canadians _tripe de roche_, because,
when boiled till soft, and then fried in grease, it makes a dish not
unpalatable--when one has nothing else.[55] The Clam and some of his
people landed and dined at the same time. After dinner the rain came on
worse and worse. Old Solomon asked me once or twice how I felt; and I
thought his anxiety for my health was caused by the rain; but no; he
told me that on the island where we had dined he had observed a great
quantity of a certain plant, which, if only touched, causes a dreadful
eruption and ulcer all over the body. I asked why he had not shown it to
me, and warned me against it? he replied, that such warning would only
have increased the danger, for when there is any knowledge or
apprehension of it existing in the mind, the very air blowing from it
sometimes infects the frame. Here I appealed to Mr. Jarvis, who replied,
"All I know is, that I once unconsciously touched a leaf of it, and
became one ulcer from head to foot; I could not stir for a
fortnight."[56]
This was a dreadful day, for the rain came on more violently,
accompanied by a storm of wind. It was necessary to land early, and make
our fires for the night. The good-natured men were full of anxiety and
compassion for me, poor, lonely, shivering woman that I was in the midst
of them! The first thought with every one was to place me under shelter,
and my tent was pitched instantly with such zeal, and such activity,
that the sense of inconvenience and suffering was forgotten in the
thankful sense of kindness, and all things became endurable.
The tent was pitched on a height, so that the water ran off on all
sides: I contrived for myself a dry bed, and Mr. Jarvis brought me some
hot madeira. I rolled myself up in my German blanket, and fell into a
deep, sound sleep. The voyageurs, who apparently need nothing but their
own good spirits to feed and clothe them, lighted a great fire, turned
the canoes upside down, and, sheltered under them, were heard singing
and laughing during great part of this tempestuous night.
Next morning we were off by five o'clock. My beautiful lake looked
horribly sulky, and all the little islands were lost in a cold gray
vapour: we were now in the Georgian Bay. Through the misty atmosphere
loomed a distant shore of considerable height. Dupre told me that what I
saw was the Isle des Chretiens, and that formerly there was a large
settlement of the Jesuits there, and that still there were to be seen
the remains of "une grande cathedrale." About nine o'clock we entered
the bay of Penetanguishene, so called from a high sand-bank at the
entrance, which is continually crumbling away. The expressive Indian
name signifies "Look! it is falling sand!"
[Footnote 55: It is often mentioned in the Travels of Back and
Franklin.]
[Footnote 56: I do not know the botanical name of this plant, which
resembles a dwarf sumach: it was subsequently pointed out to me in the
woods by a Methodist preacher, who told me that his daughter, merely by
standing to windward of the plant while looking at it, suffered
dreadfully. It is said that formerly the Indians used it to poison their
arrows.]
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