Now to take things in order, and that you may accompany us in our canoe
voyage, I must describe in the first place our arrangements. You shall
confess ere long that the Roman emperor, who proclaimed a reward for the
discovery of a new pleasure, ought to have made a voyage down Lake Huron
in a birch-bark canoe.
There were two canoes, each five-and-twenty feet in length, and four
feet in width, tapering to the two extremities, and light, elegant, and
buoyant as the sea-mew, when it skims the summer waves: in the first
canoe were Mr. Jarvis and myself; the governor's son, a lively boy of
fourteen or fifteen, old Solomon the interpreter, and seven voyageurs.
My blankets and night-gear being rolled up in a bundle, served for a
seat, and I had a pillow at my back; and thus I reclined in the bottom
of the canoe, as in a litter, very much at my ease: my companions were
almost equally comfortable. I had near me my cloak, umbrella, and
parasol, note-books and sketch-books, and a little compact basket always
by my side, containing eau de Cologne, and all those necessary luxuries
which might be wanted in a moment, for I was well resolved that I would
occasion no trouble but what was inevitable. The voyageurs were disposed
on low wooden seats, suspended to the ribs of the canoe, except our
Indian steersman, Martin, who, in a cotton shirt, arms bared to the
shoulder, loose trowsers, a scarlet sash round his waist, richly
embroidered with beads, and his long black hair waving, took his place
in the stern, with a paddle twice as long as the others.[52]
The manner in which he stood, turning and twisting himself with the
lithe agility of a snake, and striking first on one side then on the
other, was very graceful and picturesque. So much depends on the skill,
and dexterity, and intelligence of these steersmen, that they have
always double pay. The other men were all picked men, Canadian
half-breeds, young, well-looking, full of glee and good-nature, with
untiring arms and more untiring lungs and spirits; a handkerchief
twisted round the head, a shirt and pair of trowsers, with a gay sash,
formed the prevalent costume. We had on board a canteen, and other light
baggage, two or three guns, and fishing tackle.
The other canoe carried part of Mr. Jarvis's retinue, the heavy baggage,
provisions, marquees, guns, &c., and was equipped with eight paddles.
The party consisted altogether of twenty-two persons, twenty-one men,
and myself, the only woman.
We started off in swift and gallant style, looking grand and official,
with the British flag floating at our stern. Major Anderson and his
people, and the schooner's crew, gave us three cheers. The Indians
uttered their wild cries, and discharged their rifles all along the
shore. As we left the bay, I counted seventy-two canoes before us,
already on their homeward voyage--some to the upper waters of the
lake--some to the northern shores; as we passed them, they saluted us
by discharging their rifles: the day was without a cloud, and it was
altogether a most animated and beautiful scene.
I forgot to tell you that the Indians are very fond of having pet
animals in their wigwams, not only dogs, but tame foxes and hawks. Mr.
Jarvis purchased a pair of young hawks, male and female, from an Indian,
intending them for his children. Just as we left the island, one of
these birds escaped from the basket, and flew directly to the shore of
the bay, where it was lost in the thick forest. We proceeded, and after
leaving the bay about twelve miles onwards, we landed on a little rocky
island: some one heard the cry of a hawk over our heads; it was the poor
bird we had lost; he had kept his companion in sight all the way,
following us unseen along the shore, and now suffered himself to be
taken and caged with the other.
[Footnote 52: The common paddle (called by the Canadians _aviron_, and
by the Indians _abwee_) is about two feet and a half long.]