The mosquitoes were in great force, but we began by sweeping them out of
the tent with boughs, and then, closing the curtain, we executed
judgment on the remainder by wholesale. We then lay down in the same
order as last night; and Mrs. MacMurray sang her little boy to sleep
with a beautiful hymn. I felt all the luxury of having the turf under me
instead of the rock, and slept well till wakened before dawn by some
animal sniffing and snuffing close to my ear. I commanded my alarm, and
did not disturb those who were enjoying a sound sleep near me, and the
intruder turned out to be a cow belonging to the hut, who had got her
nose under the edge of the tent. We set off early, and by sunrise had
passed down the eastern channel of the river, and swept into the lake.
It was a lovely morning, soft and calm; there was no breath of wind; no
cloud in the sky, no vapour in the air; and the little islands lay
around "under the opening eyelids of the morn," dewy, and green, and
silent. We made eighteen miles before breakfast; and then pursued our
way through Aird's bay, and among countless islands of all shapes and
sizes; I cannot describe their beauty, nor their harmonious variety: at
last we perceived in the east the high ridge called the mountains of La
Cloche. They are really respectable hills in this level country, but
hardly mountains: they are all of limestone, and partially clothed in
wood. All this coast is very rocky and barren; but it is said to be rich
in mineral productions. About five in the evening we landed at La
Cloche.
Here we found the first and only signs of civilised society during our
voyage. The north-west company have an important station here; and two
of their principal clerks, Mr. MacBean and Mr. Buthune were on the spot.
We were received with much kindness, and pressed to spend the night, but
there was yet so much day-light, and time was so valuable, that we
declined. The factory consists of a large log-house, an extensive store
to contain the goods bartered with the Indians, and huts inhabited by
work people, hunters, voyageurs, and others; a small village, in short,
and a number of boats and canoes of all sizes were lying in the bay. It
is not merely the love of gain that induces well-educated
men--gentlemen--to pass twenty years of their lives in such a place as
this; you must add to the prospective acquirement of a large fortune,
two possessions which men are most wont to covet--power and freedom. The
table was laid in their hall for supper, and we carried off, with their
good will, a large mess of broiled fish, dish and all, and a can of
milk, which delicious viands we discussed in our boat with great
satisfaction.