July 5.
The next morning the weather continued very lowering and stormy. I
received several visitors, who, hearing of my arrival, had come with
kind offers of hospitality and attention, such as are most grateful to a
solitary stranger. I had also much conversation relative to the place
and people, and the settlements around; and then I took a long walk
about the town, of which I here give you the results.
When Governor Simcoe was planning the foundation of a capital for the
whole province, he fixed at first upon the present site of London,
struck by its many and obvious advantages. Its central position in the
midst of these great lakes, being at an equal distance from Huron, Erie,
and Ontario, in the finest and most fertile district of the whole
province, on the bank of a beautiful stream, and at a safe distance from
the frontier, all pointed it out as the most eligible site for a
metropolis; but there was the want of land and water communication--a
want which still remains the only drawback to its rising prosperity. A
canal or railroad, running from Toronto and Hamilton to London, then
branching off on the right to the harbour of Goderich on Lake Huron, and
on the left to Sandwich on Lake Erie, were a glorious thing!--the one
thing needful to make this fine country the granary and storehouse of
the west; for here all grain, all fruits which flourish in the south of
Europe, might be cultivated with success--the finest wheat and rice, and
hemp and flax, and tobacco. Yet, in spite of this want, soon, I trust,
to be supplied, the town of London has sprung up and become within ten
years a place of great importance. In size and population it exceeds
every town I have yet visited, except Toronto and Hamilton. The first
house was erected in 1827; now, that is in 1837, it contains more than
two hundred frame or brick houses; and there are many more building. The
population may be about thirteen hundred people. The jail and
court-house, comprised in one large stately edifice, seemed the glory of
the townspeople. As for the style of architecture, I may not attempt to
name or describe it; but a gentleman informed me, in rather equivocal
phrase, that it was "_somewhat Gothic_." There are five places of
worship, for the Episcopalians, Presbyterians, Methodists, Roman
Catholics, and Baptists. The church is handsome. There are also three or
four schools, and seven taverns. The Thames is very beautiful here, and
navigable for boats and barges. I saw to-day a large timber raft
floating down the stream, containing many thousand feet of timber. On
the whole, I have nowhere seen such evident signs of progress and
prosperity.
The population consists principally of artisans--as blacksmiths,
carpenters, builders, all flourishing. There is, I fear, a good deal of
drunkenness and profligacy; for though the people have work and wealth,
they have neither education nor amusements. Besides the seven taverns,
there is a number of little grocery stores, which are, in fact, drinking
houses. And though a law exists, which forbids the sale of spirituous
liquors in small quantities by any but licensed publicans, they easily
contrive to elude the law; as thus:--a customer enters the shop, and
asks for two or three pennyworth of nuts, or cakes, and he receives a
few nuts, and a large glass of whisky. The whisky, you observe, is
given, not sold, and no one can swear to the contrary. In the same
manner, the severe law against selling intoxicating liquors to the poor
Indians is continually eluded or violated, and there is no redress for
the injured, no punishment to reach the guilty. It appears to me that
the Government should be more careful in the choice of the
district-magistrates. While I was in London, a person who acted in this
capacity was carried from the pavement dead drunk.