The Grand River is navigable for steam-boats from Lake Erie up to the
landing-place, about two miles below Brandtford, and from thence a canal
is to be cut, some time or other, to the town. The present site of
Brandtford was chosen on account of those very rapids which do indeed
obstruct the navigation, but turn a number of mills, here of the first
importance. The usual progress of a Canadian village is this: first, on
some running stream, the erection of a saw-mill and grist-mill for the
convenience of the neighbouring scattered settlers; then a few shanties
or log-houses for the work-people; then a grocery-store; then a
tavern--a chapel--perchance a school-house.
Not having been properly forewarned, I unfortunately allowed the driver
to take me to a wrong inn. I ought to have put up at the Mansion-house,
well kept by a retired half-pay British officer; instead of which I was
brought to the Commercial Hotel, newly undertaken by an American. I sent
to the landlord to say I wished to speak to him about proceeding on my
journey next day. The next moment the man walked into my bed-room
without hesitation or apology. I was too much accustomed to foreign
manners to be greatly discomfited; but when he proceeded to fling his
hat down on my bed, and throw himself into the only arm-chair in the
room, while I was standing, I must own I did look at him with some
surprise. To those who have been accustomed to the almost servile
courtesy of English innkeepers, the manners of the innkeepers in the
United States are not pleasant. I cannot say they ever discomposed me: I
always met with civility and attention; but the manners of the country
innkeepers in Canada are worse than anything you can meet with in the
United States, being generally kept by refugee Americans of the lowest
class, or by Canadians who, in affecting American manners and
phraseology, grossly exaggerate both.
In the present case I saw at once that no incivility was intended; my
landlord was ready at a fair price to drive me over himself, in his own
"wagon," to Woodstock; and after this was settled, finding, after a few
questions, that the man was really a most stupid, ignorant fellow, I
turned to the window, and took up a book, as a hint for him to be gone.
He continued, however, to lounge in the chair, rocking himself in
silence to and fro, till at last he _did_ condescend to take my hint,
and to take his departure.
* * * * *
At ten o'clock next morning, a little vehicle, like that which brought
me from Hamilton, was at the door; and I set off for Woodstock, driven
by my American landlord, who showed himself as good-natured and civil as
he was impenetrably stupid.
No one who has a single atom of imagination, can travel through these
forest roads of Canada without being strongly impressed and excited. The
seemingly interminable line of trees before you; the boundless
wilderness around; the mysterious depths amid the multitudinous foliage,
where foot of man hath never penetrated,--and which partial gleams of
the noontide sun, now seen, now lost, lit up with a changeful magical
beauty,--the wondrous splendour and novelty of the flowers,--the
silence, unbroken but by the low cry of a bird, or hum of insect, or the
splash and croak of some huge bull-frog,--the solitude in which we
proceeded mile after mile, no human being, no human dwelling within
sight,--are all either exciting to the fancy, or oppressive to the
spirits, according to the mood one may be in.
* * * * *