--A very pretty place, with a very pretty name. A kind invitation led me
hither, to seek change of air, change of scene, and every other change I
most needed.
The Britannia steam-boat, which plies daily between Toronto and
Hamilton, brought us to the mouth of the Credit River in an hour and a
half. By the orders of Mr. M * * *, a spring cart or wagon, the usual
vehicle of the country, was waiting by the inn, on the shore of the
lake, to convey me through the Woods to his house; and the master of the
inn, a decent, respectable man, drove the wagon. He had left England a
mere child, thirty years ago, with his father, mother, and seven
brothers and sisters, and eighteen years ago had come to Canada from the
United States, at the suggestion of a relation, to "settle in the bush,"
the common term for uncleared land; at that time they had nothing, as he
said, but "health and hands." The family, now reduced to five, are all
doing well. He has himself a farm of two hundred and fifty acres, his
own property; his brother has much more; his sisters are well settled.
"Any man," said he, "with health and a pair of hands, could get on well
in this country, if it were not for _the drink; that_ ruins hundreds."
They are forming a harbour at the mouth of the river--widening and
deepening the channel; but, owing to the want of means and money during
the present perplexities, the works are not going on. There is a clean,
tidy inn, and some log and frame houses; the situation is low, swampy,
and I should suppose unhealthy; but they assured me, that though still
subject to ague and fever in the spring, every year diminished this
inconvenience, as the draining and clearing of the lands around was
proceeding rapidly.
The River Credit is so called, because in _ancient_ times (_i. e._ forty
or fifty years ago) the fur traders met the Indians on its banks, and
delivered to them on _credit_ the goods for which, the following year,
they received the value, or rather ten times the value, in skins. In a
country where there is no law of debtor or creditor, no bonds, stamps,
bills, or bailiffs, no possibility of punishing, or even catching a
refractory or fraudulent debtor, but, on the contrary, every possibility
of being tomahawked by said debtor, this might seem a hazardous
arrangement; yet I have been assured by those long engaged in the trade,
both in the upper and lower province, that for an Indian to break his
engagements is a thing unheard of: and if, by any personal accident, he
should be prevented from bringing in the stipulated number of beaver
skins, his relatives and friends consider their honour implicated, and
make up the quantity for him.
The fur trade has long ceased upon these shores, once the scene of
bloody conflicts between the Hurons and the Missassaguas. The latter
were at length nearly extirpated; a wretched, degenerate remnant of the
tribe still continued to skulk about their old haunts and the
burial-place of their fathers, which is a high mound on the west bank of
the river, and close upon the lake. These were collected by the
Methodist missionaries into a village or settlement, about two miles
farther on, where an attempt has been made to civilise and convert them.
The government has expended a large sum in aid of this charitable
purpose, and about fifty log-huts have been constructed for the Indians,
each hut being divided by a partition, and capable of lodging two or
more families. There is also a chapel and a school-house. Peter Jones,
otherwise Kahkewaquonaby, a half-caste Indian, is the second chief and
religious teacher; he was in England a few years ago to raise
contributions for his people, and married a young enthusiastic
Englishwoman with a small property. She has recently quitted the village
to return to Europe. There is, besides, a regular Methodist preacher
established here, who cannot speak one word of the language of the
natives, nor hold any communion with them, except through an
interpreter. He complained of the mortality among the children, and the
yearly diminution of numbers in the settlement. The greater number of
those who remain are half-breeds, and of these, some of the young women
and children are really splendid creatures; but the general appearance
of the place and people struck me as gloomy. The Indians, whom I saw
wandering and lounging about, and the squaws wrapped in dirty blankets,
with their long black hair falling over their faces and eyes, filled me
with compassion. When the tribe were first gathered together, they
amounted to seven hundred men, women, and children; there are now about
two hundred and twenty. The missionary and his wife looked dejected; he
told me that the conference never allowed them (the missionaries) to
remain with any congregation long enough to know the people, or take a
personal interest in their welfare. In general the term of their
residence in any settlement or district was from two to three years, and
they were then exchanged for another. Among the inhabitants a few have
cultivated the portion of land allotted to them, and live in comparative
comfort; three or four women (half-caste) are favourably distinguished
by the cleanliness of their houses, and general good conduct; and some
of the children are remarkably intelligent, and can read both their own
language and English; but these are exceptions, and dirt, indolence,
and drunkenness, are but too general. Consumption is the prevalent
disease, and carries off numbers[3] of these wretched people.
After passing the Indian village, we plunged again into the depth of the
green forests, through a road or path which presented every now and then
ruts and abysses of mud, into which we sank nearly up to the axletree,
and I began to appreciate feelingly the fitness of a Canadian wagon. On
each side of this forest path the eye sought in vain to penetrate the
labyrinth of foliage, and intermingled flowers of every dye, where life
in myriad forms was creeping, humming, rustling in the air or on the
earth, on which the morning dew still glittered under the thick shades.
From these woods we emerged, after five or six miles of travelling, and
arrived at Springfield, a little village we had passed through in the
depth of winter--how different its appearance now!--and diverging from
the road, a beautiful path along the high banks above the river Credit,
brought us to Erindale, for so Mr. M * * *, in fond recollection of his
native country, has named his romantic residence.
Mr. M * * * is the clergyman and magistrate of the district, beside
being the principal farmer and land proprietor. His wife, sprung from a
noble and historical race, blended much sweetness and frankheartedness,
with more of courtesy and manner than I expected to find. My reception
was most cordial, though the whole house was in unusual bustle, for it
was the 4th of June, parade day, when the district militia were to be
turned out; and two of the young men of the family were buckling on
swords and accoutrements, and furbishing up helmets, while the sister
was officiating with a sister's pride at this military toilette, tying
on sashes and arranging epaulettes; and certainly when they
appeared--one in the pretty green costume of a rifleman, the other all
covered with embroidery as a captain of lancers--I thought I had seldom
seen two finer-looking men. After taking coffee and refreshments, we
drove down to the scene of action.
On a rising ground above the river which ran gurgling and sparkling
through the green ravine beneath, the motley troops, about three or four
hundred men, were marshalled--no, not marshalled, but scattered in a far
more picturesque fashion hither and thither: a few log-houses and a
saw-mill on the river-bank, and a little wooden church crowning the
opposite height, formed the chief features of the scene. The boundless
forest spread all around us. A few men, well mounted, and dressed as
lancers, in uniforms which were, however, anything but uniform,
flourished backwards on the green sward, to the manifest peril of the
spectators; themselves and their horses, equally wild, disorderly,
spirited, undisciplined: but this was perfection compared with the
infantry. Here there was no uniformity attempted of dress, of
appearance, of movement; a few had coats, others jackets; a greater
number had neither coats nor jackets, but appeared in their
shirt-sleeves, white or checked, or clean or dirty, in edifying variety!
Some wore hats, others caps, others their own shaggy heads of hair. Some
had firelocks; some had old swords suspended in belts, or stuck in their
waistbands; but the greater number shouldered sticks or umbrellas. Mrs.
M * * * told us that on a former parade day she had heard the word of
command given thus--"Gentlemen with the umbrellas, take ground to the
right! Gentlemen with the walking sticks, take ground to the left!" Now
they ran after each other, elbowed and kicked each other, straddled,
stooped, chattered; and if the commanding officer turned his back for a
moment, very coolly sat down on the bank to rest. Not to laugh was
impossible, and defied all power of face. Charles M. made himself hoarse
with shouting out orders which no one obeyed, except, perhaps, two or
three men in the front; and James, with his horsemen, flourished their
lances, and galloped, and capered, and curveted to admiration. James is
the popular storekeeper and postmaster of the village, and when, after
the show, we went into his warehouse to rest, I was not a little amused
to see our captain of lancers come in, and, taking off his plumed
helmet, jump over the counter to serve one customer to a "pennyworth of
tobacco," and another to a "yard of check." Willy, the younger brother,
a fine young man, who had been our cavalier on the field, assisted; and
half in jest, half in earnest, I gravely presented myself as the
purchaser of something or other, which Willy served out with a laughing
gaiety and unembarrassed simplicity quite delightful. We returned to sit
down to a plain, plenteous, and excellent dinner; everything on the
table, the wine excepted, was the produce of their own farm. Our wine,
water, and butter were iced, and everything was the best of its kind.
The parade day ended in a drunken bout and a riot, in which, as I was
afterwards informed, the colonel had been knocked down, and one or two
serious, and even fatal accidents had occurred; but it was all taken so
very lightly, so very much as a thing of course, in this half-civilised
community, that I soon ceased to think about the matter.
The next morning I looked out from my window upon a scene of wild yet
tranquil loveliness. The house is built on the edge of a steep bank
(what in Scotland they term a _scaur_), perhaps a hundred feet high, and
descending precipitously to the rapid river.[4] The banks on either side
were clothed with overhanging woods, of the sumach, maple, tamarisk,
birch, in all the rich yet delicate array of the fresh opening year.
Beyond, as usual, lay the dark pine-forest: and near to the house there
were several groups of lofty pines, the original giant-brood of the
soil; beyond these again lay the "clearing." The sky was without a
cloud, and the heat intense. I found breakfast laid in the verandah:
excellent tea and coffee, rich cream, delicious hot cakes, new laid
eggs--a banquet for a king! The young men and their labourers had been
out since sunrise, and the younger ladies of the house were busied in
domestic affairs; the rest of us sat lounging all the morning in the
verandah; and in the intervals of sketching and reading, my kind host
and hostess gave me an account of their emigration to this country ten
years ago.
Mr. M. was a Protestant clergyman of good family, and had held a
considerable living in Ireland; but such was the disturbed state of the
county in which he resided, that he was not only unable to collect his
tithes, but for several years neither his own life nor that of any of
his family was safe. They never went out unarmed, and never went to rest
at night without having barricadoed their house like a fortress. The
health of his wife began to fail under this anxiety, and at length,
after a severe struggle with old feelings and old habits, he came to the
determination to convert his Irish property into ready money, and
emigrate to Canada, with four fine sons, from seven to seventeen years
old, and one little daughter. Thus Canada has become an asylum, not only
for those who cannot pay tithes, but for those who cannot get them.
Soon after his arrival, he purchased eight hundred acres of land along
the banks of the Credit. With the assistance of his sons and a few
labourers, he soon cleared a space of ground for a house, in a situation
of great natural beauty, but then a perfect wilderness; and with no
other aid, designed and built it in very pretty taste. Being thus secure
of lodging and shelter, they proceeded in their toilsome work--toilsome,
most laborious, he allowed it to be, but not unrewarded; and they have
now one hundred and fifty acres of land cleared and in cultivation; a
noble barn, entirely constructed by his sons, measuring sixty feet long
by forty in width; a carpenter's shop, a turning-lathe, in the use of
which the old gentleman and one of his sons are very ingenious and
effective; a forge; extensive outhouses; a farmyard well stocked; and a
house comfortably furnished, much of the ornamental furniture being
contrived, carved, turned, by the father and his sons. These young men,
who had received in Ireland the rudiments of a classical education, had
all a mechanical genius, and here, with all their energies awakened, and
all their physical and mental powers in full occupation, they are a
striking example of what may be done by activity and perseverance; they
are their own architects, masons, smiths, carpenters, farmers,
gardeners; they are, moreover, bold and keen hunters, quick in resource,
intelligent, cheerful, united by strong affection, and doating on their
gentle sister, who has grown up among these four tall, manly brothers,
like a beautiful azalia under the towering and sheltering pines. Then I
should add, that one of the young men knows something of surgery, can
bleed or set a broken limb in case of necessity; while another knows as
much of law as enables him to draw up an agreement, and settle the
quarrels and arrange the little difficulties of their poorer neighbours,
without having recourse to the "attorney."
The whole family appear to have a lively feeling for natural beauty, and
a taste for natural history; they know the habits and the haunts of the
wild animals which people their forest domain; they have made
collections of minerals and insects; and have "traced each herb and
flower that sips the silvery dew." Not only the stout servant girl,
(whom I met running about with a sucking-pig in her arms, looking for
its mother,) and the little black boy Alick,--but the animals in the
farmyard, the old favourite mare, the fowls which come trooping round
the benignant old gentleman, or are the peculiar pets of the ladies of
the family,--the very dogs and cats appear to me, each and all, the most
enviable of their species. There is an atmosphere of benevolence and
cheerfulness breathing round, which penetrates to my very heart. I know
not when I have felt so quietly--so entirely happy--so full of
sympathy--so light-hearted--so inclined to shut out the world, and its
cares and vanities, and "fleet the time as they did i' the golden age."
Mr. M. told me, that for the first seven or eight years they had all
lived and worked together on his farm; but latterly he had reflected
that though the proceeds of the farm afforded a subsistence, it did not
furnish the means of independence for his sons, so as to enable them to
marry and settle in the world. He has therefore established two of his
sons as storekeepers, the one in Springfield, the other at Streetsville,
both within a short distance of his own residence, and they have
already, by their intelligence, activity, and popular manners, succeeded
beyond his hopes.
I could perceive that in taking this step there had been certain
prejudices and feelings to be overcome on his own part and that of his
wife: the family pride of the well-born Irish gentleman, and the
antipathy to anything like trade, once cherished by a certain class in
the old country--these were to be conquered, before he could reconcile
himself to the idea of his boys serving out groceries in a Canadian
village; but they _were_ overcome. Some lingering of the "old Adam" made
him think it necessary to excuse--to account for this state of things.
He did not know with what entire and approving sympathy I regarded, not
the foolish national prejudices of my country, but the honest, generous
spirit and good sense through which he had conquered them, and provided
for the future independence of his children.
I inquired concerning the extent of his parish, and the morals and
condition of his parishioners.
He said that on two sides the district under his charge might be
considered as without bounds, for, in fact, there was no parish boundary
line between him and the North Pole. He has frequently ridden from
sixteen to thirty miles to officiate at a marriage or a funeral, or
baptize a child, or preach a sermon, wherever a small congregation could
be collected together; but latterly his increasing age rendered such
exertion difficult. His parish church is in Springfield. When he first
took the living, to which he was appointed on his arrival in the
country, the salary--for here there are no tithes--was two hundred a
year: some late measure, fathered by Mr. Hume, had reduced it to one
hundred. He spoke of this without bitterness as regarded himself,
observing that he was old, and had other means of subsistence; but he
considered it as a great injustice both to himself and to his
successors--"For," said he, "it is clear that no man could take charge
of this extensive district without keeping a good horse, and a boy to
rub him down. Now, in this country, where wages are high, he could not
keep a horse and a servant, and wear a whole coat, for less than one
hundred a year. No man, therefore, who had not other resources, could
live upon this sum; and no man who _had_ other resources, and had
received a fitting education, would be likely to come here. I say
nothing of the toil, the fatigue, the deep responsibility--these belong
to his vocation, in which, though a man must labour, he need not surely
starve:--yet starve he must, unless he takes a farm or a store in
addition to his clerical duties. A clergyman in such circumstances could
hardly command the respect of his parishioners: what do _you_ think,
madam?"
When the question was thus put, I could only think the same: it seems to
me that there must be something wrong in the whole of this Canadian
church system, from beginning to end.
With regard to the morals of the population around him, he spoke of two
things as especially lamentable, the prevalence of drunkenness, and the
early severing of parental and family ties; the first, partly owing to
the low price of whisky, the latter to the high price of labour, which
rendered it the interest of the young of both sexes to leave their home,
and look out and provide for themselves as soon as possible. This fact,
and its consequences, struck him the more painfully, from the contrast
it exhibited to the strong family affections, and respect for parental
authority, which even in the midst of squalid, reckless misery and ruin,
he had been accustomed to in poor Ireland. The general morals of the
women he considered infinitely superior to those of the men; and in the
midst of the horrid example and temptation, and one may add,
provocation, round them, their habits were generally sober. He knew
himself but two females abandoned to habits of intoxication, and in both
instances the cause had been the same--an unhappy home and a brutal
husband.
He told me many other interesting circumstances and anecdotes, but being
of a personal nature, and his permission not expressly given, I do not
note them down here.
On the whole, I shall never forget the few days spent with this
excellent family. We bade farewell, after many a cordial entreaty on
their part, many a promise on mine, to visit them again. Charles M.
drove me over to the Credit, where we met the steam-boat, and I returned
to Toronto with my heart full of kindly feelings, my fancy full of
delightful images, and my lap full of flowers, which Charles had
gathered for me along the margin of the forest: flowers such as we
transplant and nurture with care in our gardens and green-houses, most
dazzling and lovely in colour, strange and new to me in their forms, and
names, and uses: unluckily I am no botanist, so will not venture to
particularize farther; but one plant struck me particularly, growing
everywhere in thousands: the stalk is about two feet in height, and at
the top are two large fan-like leaves, one being always larger than the
other; from between the two springs a single flower, in size and shape
somewhat resembling a large wild rose, the petal white, just tinted with
a pale blush. The flower is succeeded by an oval-shaped fruit, which is
eaten, and makes an excellent preserve. They call it here the May-apple.
[Footnote 3: The notes thrown together here are the result of three
different visits to the Credit, and information otherwise obtained.]
[Footnote 4: In this river the young sportsmen of the family had speared
two hundred salmon in a single night. The salmon-hunts in Canada are
exactly like that described so vividly in Guy Mannering. The fish thus
caught is rather a large species of trout than genuine salmon. The sport
is most exciting.]
* * * * *