CHAPTER XII.

KARROO BEASTS, BIRDS AND REPTILES.

Leopard drowned in a well--Baboons--Egyptian sacred animals on Cape

farms--"Adonis"--A humiliating retreat--A baby baboon--Clever tricks

performed by baboons--Adonis as a _Voorlooper_--A four-handed

pointsman--Sarah--A baboon at the Diamond Fields--Adonis's

shower-bath--His love of stimulants--His revengeful disposition--

Pelops the dog-headed--Horus--_Aasvogels_--Goat-sucker--The

butcher-bird's larder--Nest of the golden oriole--The kapok bird--

Snakes in houses--A puff-adder under a pillow--Puff-adder most

dangerous of Cape snakes--Cobras--_Schaapsticker_--Ugly house-lizards

--Dassie-adder--The dassie the coney of Scripture--Stung by a

scorpion--Fight between tarantula and centipede--Destructive ants

--The _Aardvaark_, or ant-bear--Ignominious flight of a sentry--

Ant-lion--Walking-leaves--The Hottentot god--A mantis at a picnic.

Although the elephant and lion are now no longer found in the Karroo,

there still remain a good number of leopards, or, as the colonists, in

calm defiance of natural history, persist in calling them, "tigers."

These animals, by the way, seem fated at both ends of the Dark

Continent to be the victims of a misnomer, and in Algeria rejoice in

the name of _panthère_. Though the South African leopards are now

following the example of the larger and more formidable game, and

gradually retreating before the advance of man, it is not many years

since three or four of them might be seen drinking together at night

from the dam close to the Dutch house now transformed into the

homestead of Swaylands. Even now, in the hills overlooking the Karroo,

there are more of them about than the farmer likes; and sheep, calves,

colts and young ostriches are occasionally killed by them.

One day, riding up to a well in an out-of-the-way part of the farm, we

found that a magnificent full-grown leopard had fallen in and drowned

himself. There he was, floating on the surface of the water only five

feet below where we stood; his large body extended across the whole

diameter of the well, and on the steep but rough and unbricked sides of

the latter we could see the traces of his desperate though unavailing

struggles to climb out. Unfortunately, the weather being very hot, his

beautiful skin was already spoilt; and we rode home regretting the

lovely rug "off our own farm," which we might have displayed to

admiring friends at home if we had but found him one day earlier.

A wounded leopard is a very dangerous customer. One of our neighbours,

an old hunter, bears many scars in remembrance of severe injuries

received long ago in following up one of these animals which he had

shot. The encounter was a terrible one, nearly costing the colonist his

life.

Next to the leopard in ferocity comes the baboon. He is a big,

deep-voiced, sturdy fellow; his short, gruff bark is as dog-like as his

head, and there is no doubt that he is identical with the dog-headed

ape of ancient Egypt. Indeed, all the sacred animals and birds of

Egyptian mythology, and many of the other creatures which are depicted

in so life-like a manner on the walls of Nile temples and tombs, are

to be found at this day in South Africa. Anubis the jackal; the

grey ibis, now extinct in Egypt, but common enough in the Cape

Colony, and--audacious insult to that learned god to whom he was

sacred--irreverently and absurdly named by the colonials "oddida;" the

hawk Horus, with just the same plump little body, round baby-face, and

delicately-tinted plumage of softest French grey and white which you

see again and again in those comical, toy-like little wooden images in

the museum at Cairo; the wild geese, with the identical curious

markings of those which, in the oldest picture in the world, may be

seen in that same museum; the scarab, rolling his unwieldy ball with

Atlas-like efforts;--all these are at home on the Karroo farms.

Cynocephalus, indeed, was very much more at home at Swaylands than we

liked, and would often frighten the ostriches into a wild state of

panic, with the usual inevitable result of broken legs. On mountain

excursions you frequently hear his surly bark, and sometimes see him

looking out defiantly at you from behind rock or bush, where possibly

you have disturbed him in the midst of an exciting lizard-hunt, or

careful investigation of loose stones in search of the centipedes,

scorpions and beetles hidden beneath. These creatures, uninviting

though they appear to us, are among his favourite dainties, and he

catches them with wonderful dexterity. In the silence of night his

voice is so distinctly audible from the homestead that you would

imagine him to be close by, though in reality he is far off in one of

the kloofs of the mountains. One night, as we strolled up and down near

the house, enjoying the bright moonlight, a loud chorus of distant

baboons to which we were listening was suddenly interrupted, evidently

by the spring of a hungry leopard, the moment's silence being followed

by the agonized and prolonged yells of the victim.

Now and then Cynocephalus, or, as the Boers ironically call him,

"Adonis," gets too troublesome, and war has to be carried into his

camp. Of no avail against him are those neat little strychnine pills,

enclosed in tempting pieces of fat, by means of which Anubis is so

successfully sent to his account. No vegetable poison has the slightest

effect on the baboon's iron constitution, and indeed, if there exists

any poison at all capable of killing him, it is quite certain that with

his superior intelligence he would be far too artful to take it; and

when the fiat for his destruction has gone forth a well-organized

attack has to be made on him with dogs and guns. He can show fight,

too, and the dogs must be well trained and have the safety of numbers

to enable them to face him; for in fighting he has the immense

advantage of hands, with which he seizes a dog and holds him fast while

he inflicts a fatal bite through the loins. Indeed, for either dog or

man, coming to close quarters with Adonis is no trifling matter.

One of our friends, travelling on horseback, came upon a number of

baboons sitting in solemn parliament on some rocks. He cantered towards

them, anticipating the fun of seeing the ungainly beasts take to their

heels in grotesque panic; but was somewhat taken aback on finding

that--far from being intimidated by his approach--they refused to move,

and sat waiting for him, regarding him the while with ominous calmness.

The canter subsided into a trot, and the trot into a sedate walk--and

still they sat there; and so defiant was the expression on each ugly

face that at last the intruder thought it wisest to turn back and ride

ignominiously away.

A Dutch boy--one of a family temporarily camping in their own waggon on

the farm, and employed by T----, rambling one day in one of the far-off

kloofs of the mountains, came near the haunt of a party of baboons.

Though an occasional bark broke the stillness, only one of the animals

was in sight, and that a little one, probably left alone for a while

during the mother's search for food. With the baby baboon in his arms

the boy was soon speeding at his best pace down the mountain; and, if

fortune had but favoured his enterprise as it deserved, what a

delightful "new chum" would that day have been added to our collection

of animals! But too soon the whole troop of baboons, missing their

youngest hope, were in full pursuit of the robber, on whom they gained

so rapidly, and with gestures so unmistakeably portending mischief,

that young Piet was only too glad to drop his prize and run for his

life.

The baboon stands in no awe of women; he seems quite aware of their

inferiority, in point of strength and courage, to the sterner sex, and

despises them accordingly. At one place near Graaff-Reinet the women

never dared to go and fetch water unless accompanied by men; for the

baboons, which were very numerous, would always chase and threaten any

daughter of Eve who ventured, without masculine escort, near their

haunts.

Baboons captured in babyhood and brought up in human society are

capable of becoming extremely tame. Like all other very intelligent

animals, they vary much in disposition, a docile and tractable one soon

learning to perform many clever tricks, and being an amusing companion,

though too often a mischievous one. A gentleman at Willowmore owned two

large, splendidly-trained performing baboons, which would have made the

fortune of any circus-proprietor. They would together enact a series of

complicated tricks, each going through his allotted part without a

mistake. Both were most attentive and obedient to orders, and never by

any chance would "Joe" so far forget his duty as to respond to the

command given to "Jim," or vice versa.

Occasionally, too, Adonis--who cannot, even by his best friends, be

called ornamental--is taught to make himself useful; he has in several

instances been seen filling the post of _voorlooper_ to the waggons

of travelling Boers, acquitting himself on the whole quite as creditably

as his Hottentot fellow-servants. And at one railway station in the

colony a baboon was for a long time employed to work the points. The

man in charge of the latter--having in a railway accident lost one

arm and part of the remaining hand--had taught the ape to move the

levers. This he did most cleverly with three of his powerful hands,

using one of the hinder ones; and the fact of the novel pointsman

retaining his situation makes it evident that his duties were

satisfactorily performed.

On the occasion of a raid with dogs and guns on the baboons infesting a

friend's farm, one of the animals killed was the mother of a very young

infant. When the captors came up to the spot they found the poor little

creature crying piteously as it clasped the trunk of the tree beneath

which lay its dead parent. They took it home, and our friend, a great

lover of animals, was successful in rearing it. "Sarah," a gentle,

amiable character, soon became a great favourite, and her comical ways

were a source of constant amusement to her human friends. At the word

of command she would stand erect, with her arms behind her, and her

mouth wide open to catch the pieces of potato, etc., which were thrown

into it; and when told to open "wider! wider!" she would distend her

jaws almost to the point of breaking.

Of course she was occasionally--what member of the ape tribe is

not?--the victim of practical jokes. One day her favourite dish,

pumpkin, was presented to her, and, all-unconscious of the treachery

which lurked within, she applied herself with gusto to her dinner,

which, unlike most of her tribe, she always preferred to eat direct

from the dish without the intervention of her fingers. Alas! between

two of those succulent slices of pumpkin cruel hands had spread a thick

layer of mustard; and poor Sarah, eating greedily, soon experienced

direful results on tongue, palate, throat, and eyes. She knew at once

that she had been tricked; and never were contempt and indignation

better expressed than by the lordly manner in which she kicked away the

dish with all its remaining contents. After which she retired, much

offended, to her bed, from whence she did not emerge for a long time.

On another occasion poor Sarah was made the subject of a still more

unkind practical joke. She dearly loved sweets, which were often given

to her wrapped up in a multitude of papers, one inside the other. It

was amusing to watch the patient and deliberate manner in which she

would unfold each paper in turn, taking the greatest care never to tear

one, and proceeding with all the caution of a good Mohammedan fearful

of inadvertently injuring a portion of the Koran. This time, instead of

the expected tit-bit, a dead night-adder was wrapped up and presented.

When she unfolded the innermost paper, and the snake slipped out, with

a horrid writhe, across her hand, Sarah quietly sank backwards and

fainted away, her lips turning perfectly white. By dint of throwing

water over her, chafing her hands, and bathing her lips with brandy,

she was revived from her swoon, though not without some difficulty.

Sarah has now been for a long time the inmate of an English country

rectory, where, let us hope, no unfeeling jokes at her expense embitter

her declining years.

Of a far less docile disposition than Sarah was a large baboon kept by

T---- at the Diamond Fields. The incessant damage wrought by this

creature among his master's property and that of neighbours, and the

frequent doctors' bills of which he was the occasion, made him rather

an expensive pet. He was kept chained up, but would now and then break

loose, on which occasions he never failed to make an excellent use of

his opportunities and enjoy as good a "time" as possible before Nemesis

overtook him in the form of recapture and well-deserved chastisement.

One day, for instance, T----, on returning to his tent, was

considerably surprised to find his bed occupied by Mr. Adonis, who,

after getting into the shower-bath, pulling the string, and receiving

the consequent ducking, had retired in a drenched and dripping

condition to the blankets, within which he had comfortably ensconced

himself, and from whence he gazed impudently at his master. He no doubt

thought that he had well earned the luxuries of bath and bed by his

busy morning's work among the contents of T----'s canvas house; and

indeed that once cosy little abode now offered to the owner's eye a

very good representation of chaos on a small scale. A bottle of acid,

in which were a number of diamonds, had been thrown outside and the

contents scattered in the sand; T----'s watch had been pulled to pieces

and flung through the window; and altogether every conceivable piece of

mischief had been done. On attempting to secure and tie up the

offender, T---- received a severe bite through the leg; on which,

naturally irate, he seized his gun, and capital punishment would then

and there have been inflicted but for the discovery that the wily

Adonis had balked retributive justice by carefully pulling every

cartridge to pieces.

Among the numerous vices of this baboon was an incorrigible addiction

to stimulants; and after indulging in his favourite drink--gin and

ginger-beer--he might very profitably have been displayed on the

platform of a temperance lecturer, as the Spartans exhibited their

helots, in illustration of the evils of drunkenness. The manner in

which, after a drop too much, he invariably persisted in walking

upright was unpleasantly suggestive of drunken humanity; so too was his

urgent need of soda-water to allay the parched condition of his mouth

on the following morning. He would draw the cork with his strong teeth,

holding the bottle close to his lips, and taking the greatest care to

lose none of the refreshing gas.

He could throw stones with the unerring aim of a schoolboy; and, being

of a revengeful disposition, and possessed of a wonderful memory, he

never failed to requite any insult or injury received. Once a Zulu

offended him by striking him with a stick. A long time passed, and then

one day the man, who had quite forgotten all about it, came within

reach of the baboon's tether, and--blissfully ignorant of the vengeful

feelings lurking in the breast of the quadrumane--offered him something

to eat. But Adonis, who had not forgotten, and who was only too glad to

pay off old scores, caught the man by the hand, and, drawing him

towards him, bit and punished him severely.

Here is another tale of revenge, in which the poor ape played but a

passive part in the hands of the "superior" animal. A colonist, having

killed a baboon, and owing several of his neighbours a long-standing

grudge, bethought him of a truly fiendish manner of revenging himself.

Though it is unlikely that he had ever read of Tantalus, he proceeded

somewhat after that classical example, and, cutting up the baboon,

made him into a stew, in which savoury disguise he served him up as

the _pièce de résistance_ at a dinner to which all the obnoxious

neighbours were bidden. The dish proved a delicious one, and all the

visitors ate of Pelops Cynocephalus with great relish. The tableau may

be imagined when, at the end of the banquet, the host told his guests

what they had eaten.

It must require considerable hardness of heart to kill a baboon; for

the creature is so horribly and uncannily human-looking, and, when

wounded, cries in a pathetic manner which must appeal to all but the

most callous of consciences. A hunter once told T---- that he felt like

a murderer after shooting one of them, and seeing how in its dying

agonies it pressed one finger upon the hole made by the bullet; crying

like a child as it fixed its eyes on him with piteous looks of

reproach.

Although the miniature Zoo at Swaylands never boasted of a tame

cynocephalus, we numbered among our feathered friends one of the gods

of ancient Egypt in the shape of as tiny and chubby a little Horus as

ever sat for his portrait to the sculptors of Philæ or Thebes. He was

but a wee thing, about the size of a wild dove, but possessed an amount

of intelligence which made him one of the most interesting even among

Cape pets. Sad to say, the poor little fellow was minus one wing.

T----, noticing him one day flying near the house, and not knowing what

bird he was, brought him down with a small rifle bullet. The shot

passed through the wing, so completely smashing it that the only thing

we could do was to take it off close to the body. We tied it up at once

and stopped the bleeding, the plucky little patient never uttering a

sound, though his jewel-like eyes seemed really to blaze with anger.

They were the most wonderful eyes imaginable, almost owl-like in size

and roundness, and of a lovely red with an orange tinge. A ruby with a

candle behind it is what I imagine would come nearest to them in

colour. The plumage of Horus, instead of being speckled and barred with

different shades of brown like that of the falcons one is accustomed to

see, was of the loveliest silver-grey, darkest on the back and wing,

and shading off gradually into very pale grey on the head, and into

purest white on the breast and beneath the body; the breast feathers

being soft and fluffy, like eider-down. The legs and feet were bright

yellow, the bill dark grey, edged with yellow, and a circle of dark

feathers round the eyes, drawn off into a long line at each side, gave

a sphinx-like appearance to the wise-looking little head. Altogether,

Horus was one of the most beautiful little birds we have seen. We took

it for granted that he was the sacred falcon; and it will be a

disappointment to us if, one day, some learned ornithologist tells us

we were quite wrong.

The little fellow recovered rapidly; and, although on the first day

after the amputation we had to put food down his throat, getting

viciously punished by his needle-pointed bill and claws, on the second

he took meat from our hands, eating voraciously as much as we would

give him, and even coming after us for more; though, not having yet

learned to steer himself under his altered circumstances, he hobbled in

a very clumsy and crab-like fashion, now and then making futile efforts

to fly, and tumbling down on his side. Soon, however, he learned to

walk straight, and would follow us about like a little dog, with the

quaintest short steps. He was soon tame and friendly with all but the

meerkat, for which he showed great animosity, and on which he would

jump spitefully--or perhaps hungrily?--whenever it came near him.

Possibly, in a wild state, small animals of this kind were his natural

prey. He did not object to Toto, who indeed--with the sole exception of

his rival and arch-enemy Bobby--has never failed to get on well with

all his heterogeneous companions.

Horus, debarred by his infirmity from active exercise, and condemned to

a somewhat humdrum life, sought consolation in the pleasures of the

table, and developed an enormous appetite. He shared the spoils of the

mousetraps with Bobby, and would take raw and cooked meat from our

hands with equal relish. Indeed I am afraid we overfed him, and induced

apoplexy. At any rate, one evening as we sat reading after dinner, he

dropped quietly from his perch, and died without a flutter.

The aasvogel, a repulsively ugly, bald-headed, bare-necked bird of the

most pronounced vulture type, is very common in South Africa,

especially in the regions where game is most plentiful. These denizens

of the air seem to be perpetually hovering, on the watch for prey, at

such immense heights as to be quite out of range of human vision;

though their own keen sight enables them instantly to detect the

prospect of a feed, and if an animal is killed, or even only wounded,

they are at once aware of the fact, and, swooping down from their airy

height, sail straight to the spot.

Perhaps you are a "new chum" out hunting, and you bring down an

antelope. Although, at the moment of firing your shot, you would have

been ready to take your affidavit that--

"No birds were flying overhead,

There were no birds to fly,"--

your game has hardly fallen before, far up in the grey-blue, a tiny

speck appears, at first only just visible, but rapidly increasing in

size; then another, and yet another floats into sight, "and still they

come," till at last the heavens seem all alive with birds approaching

from every direction, outlined against the cloudless sky in different

degrees of size and clearness, according to perspective, but all making

the straightest of bee-lines towards the wounded animal. In the Free

State, where these birds are very numerous, T----, hunting on

horseback, has sometimes found that before he could reach the spot

where his antelope had fallen the aasvogels were already on it, and had

commenced operations by plucking out the eyes, their special tit-bits.

These nastiest of birds think nothing of overeating themselves till

their condition resembles that of Mark Twain's jumping frog after the

famous dose of shot, and, when gorged after a good "square" meal, they

are so heavy that they have to run a long way before they can rise into

the air. On these occasions, if you are active and have a good long

whip, you can catch them by switching the lash round their ugly, bare

necks. But a little experience teaches you that this sport has its

drawbacks, as the aasvogel invariably swarms with animal life of the

most objectionable kind.

Owls are plentiful enough in the Karroo; so too are those other

nocturnal birds, the goat-suckers, which at sundown begin to fly about,

uttering their weird, plaintive cry. They are queer-looking birds, and

seem all out of proportion, with a broad, short head and immensely wide

bill, surrounded by stiff bristles like a cat's whiskers. On examining

a specimen shot near our house, we were amused to find that, by looking

into this preposterous bill, we could distinctly see the creature's

eyes through the semi-transparent roof of the mouth.

Another of our feathered eccentricities, the butcher-bird, called by

the colonists Jack Hanger, likes to eat his game high; and you often

come across mimosa-bushes which, stuck all over with small birds,

beetles, locusts, etc., impaled on the long, stiff thorns, form his

well-stocked larder.

In such a land of snakes as South Africa it is necessary for the birds

to resort to many clever and thoughtful devices for the protection of

eggs and young; and some of the "homes without hands" are most

ingeniously planned and exquisitely constructed.

The golden oriole hangs her graceful nest on the very furthest end of a

long bough--over water, if possible, for extra safety,--and always

gives the preference to the drooping branches of the willow. The nest

is shaped just like a Florence flask with the end curved over; and it

is next to impossible for a snake to penetrate into its interior.

Even prettier and more wonderfully made is the nest of the kapok bird,

a little creature resembling a tom-tit. The material used in the

construction of this small domicile is a kind of wild cotton, well

named by the Boers _kapok_ (snow). The nest, which is very compact, and

looks as if it were made of soft, white felt, is of much the same shape

as the oriole's brown flask; but near the outlet it is dented in,

forming a kind of second or exterior nest, in which the little

paterfamilias mounts guard over his household gods, effectually closing

the aperture by the pressure of his back against the curving end of the

tube above him. The white felt is very thick and firm throughout the

globular part of the flask, but gradually diminishes in density along

the neck, till at the orifice it is so thin and loosely woven that the

soft edges, pressed together by the bird, remain interlaced even after

he has flown from his sentry-box. No apparent aperture is left; and the

little stronghold is quite impregnable, and ready to baffle the wiliest

of ophidian marauders, until Mrs. Kapok, by flying out, re-opens the

tunnel.

Snakes are indeed one of the greatest drawbacks to South African life.

There are so many of them, they are of such deadly sorts, and the

obtrusive familiarity and utter absence of ceremony with which they

come into the houses render the nerves of newly-arrived inmates liable

at any moment to receive a severe shock. After a time, of course,

finding that every one you meet has some startling experiences to

relate, of the discovery of intrusive snakes in all sorts of places

where they were most unlooked-for and least desirable, you become

somewhat inured to this unpleasant feature of colonial existence, and

move about your house with the caution of one who would not be

surprised to find a snake anywhere.

T----, dressing one morning during the early days of his Cape life, had

just inserted his foot at one end of his trousers, when a

night-adder--a most deadly little snake, with an evil habit of going

about at hours when all respectable reptiles are in bed--dropped out at

the other. One of our neighbours considerably damaged his drawing-room

by firing several shots at a large cobra, which had startled his wife

by paying an unwelcome call. Another friend, exploring the depths of

her rather dark china-closet, put her hand on a snake, comfortably

coiled up beside the teacups. And a ghastly tale we heard, of some one

in bed, putting his hand under the pillow at night for his

pocket-handkerchief, and pulling out a puff-adder, makes one feel

that--for those at least who live at the Cape--there is more of common

sense than of irony in Mark Twain's assertion that it is safest not to

go to bed.

We were more fortunate than our neighbours, and never during our four

years' residence did I find in any of our rooms that snake for

which--as the old lady for the burglar--I was continually looking.

Perhaps we owed our immunity to the narrow strips of horse-hair

material, with the rough edge pointing upwards, which T----, having

read somewhere that no snake will cross this prickly barrier, had

nailed along the threshold of each outer door. In the store, which did

not communicate with the house, and the door of which was fortified by

no friendly spikes, we did occasionally kill a snake--attracted, no

doubt, by the legions of fat mice which ran riot among the sacks. The

fowl-house, too, would often be thrown into a state of wild excitement

and frenzied cackling by the visits of these dreaded reptiles--most

inveterate of egg-stealers.

One day, soon after we came up-country, Nancy suddenly burst in upon

us, her red turban all awry, and her speech so incoherent with

agitation that the only intelligible words were "Missis! _Turkey!!_

Missis! _Snake!!!_" On running out, we found the whole poultry-yard in

commotion, and the hens clamouring as if each had laid at least a dozen

eggs; while our nine turkeys stood drawn up in a row, pictures of

imbecile consternation, chattering feebly as they, one and all, made a

dead point at a little empty packing-case, protruding from behind which

we could just see the ugly, broad head of a young puff-adder. The enemy

was soon despatched; and while the turkeys recovered their

equanimity--which process took a long time--I indulged in the pleasure

so dear to any one with a taste for natural history, and took a

thorough survey of this, the first good-sized puff-adder I had seen.

And what a repulsive creature it was, with its short, thick,

swollen-looking body, toad-like head, and utterly evil countenance!

Only the hideous cerastes, with little demon-like horns--so common in

North Africa--comes anywhere near a puff-adder in thorough-paced

villainy of expression.

Of all the Cape snakes the puff-adder is not only the deadliest, but by

far the most to be feared. For, being of the same colour as the ground,

it is extremely difficult to see: it is lazy, too, and will not take

the trouble to get out of your way as every other snake does; yet, when

roused, it is very active, and comes at you backwards, springing a long

distance with accurate aim. If you are in front of it you are safe, as

it cannot strike forward. One morning, T----, lifting up the rug in

which he had been sleeping out on the veldt, found the flattened body

of a puff-adder, which had evidently crept between the folds for

warmth, and which he had unconsciously crushed to death.

Cobras, some of which are quite six feet in length, are very numerous

in the Karroo. At certain seasons this snake is very aggressive, and

will come at you boldly if you happen to be between it and its nest.

T----, when out shooting one day with a pointer, suddenly saw a cobra

lift itself up and strike the dog. The venom was so swift in its

operation that the poor animal only turned round once, and died almost

immediately.

The _schaapsticker_, which always reminded me of the beautiful but

deadly coral-snakes of South America, has a wonderfully-marked skin,

the pretty pattern and bright tints of which might well be utilized by

some artistic designer of floor-cloths. A delicate, coral-like red

predominates among the colours; and altogether the creature is so small

and pretty that it is difficult to believe it is one of the most

venomous of snakes. It is particularly destructive to cattle and sheep,

hence its name, the literal translation of which is "sheep-stinger."

Some of the tree-snakes, too, are very beautiful; and, many of them

being of the same bright green as the foliage, a close look is required

to distinguish them as they lurk beneath it on the watch for birds, or

for little mice which sometimes climb up into bushes, or into the lower

branches of trees.

Lizards are very plentiful throughout the Karroo; and, as you walk

through the veldt, hundreds of them, startled by your footsteps, dart

away in all directions from one isolated tuft of bush to another, as

if running for their little lives. In strong contrast to these

bright, active creatures of the sunshine are the slow-moving,

pallid-complexioned house-lizards which are so unpleasantly common.

There are few things uglier than one of these _hikés_. With his flat,

round toes, serving the purpose of suckers whereby he is enabled to

retain his foothold as he perches, fly-like, on the ceilings, his

low, criminal type of face, brightened by none of the quaint,

antediluvian air of wisdom which redeems the chameleon's honest

ugliness, and with his general unhealthy and uncanny appearance, it

is no wonder that among the ignorant natives he has the reputation of

being as venomous as he looks, and that from one end of the country

to the other he is more dreaded than any snake. Yet it is somewhat

puzzling to think how he can inflict a poisonous bite, when, on

looking into his mouth, you perceive that he has no teeth.

An object of even more superstitious dread is that mysterious and

deadly creature--half-quadruped, half-reptile, and certainly altogether

fabulous--the so-called dassie-adder. Throughout the whole country

you hear accounts of this strange animal from Boers, Kaffirs, and

Hottentots; many of the coloured race declare that they have seen it,

and, though some laugh at the tale, the belief in it is evidently

very general. The anterior portion of the mythical creature's body

is supposed to be that of a dassie, or rock-rabbit (the coney of

Scripture), to which are joined, in somewhat mermaid-like fashion, the

thick body and blunt tail of a snake resembling a puff-adder. According

to all accounts the dassie-adder, whose bite is instantly fatal, is

most vindictive, and, running with all the swiftness of a dassie, will

chase any one who comes near it. Some say, too, that it goes about at

night.

The dassies, so terrible in their fictitious semi-reptile state, are in

real life very harmless, timid little animals. They are gregarious, and

live among the rocks in such inaccessible places that it is most

difficult to capture one of them; and a tame dassie is among the rarest

of Karroo pets, so securely do these "feeble folk" make "their houses

in the rocks." In appearance the dassie is very like a little brown

guinea-pig; as regards intelligence, too, he is just about the equal of

his rather uninteresting piebald cousins, and, although he is as

pretty, soft-coated and gentle as you could wish, and in his mild,

placid way gets very tame, he is nowhere in comparison with that prince

of pets, a meerkat.

A not unlikely solution of the dassie-adder mystery seems to be that in

all probability the puff-adders prey upon the little denizens of the

rocks; and a large snake may occasionally have been seen with a

half-swallowed dassie in his mouth, just as a common snake sometimes

displays, protruding from his jaws, the head and forelegs of the

inconveniently fat frog which he is unable to gulp down in a hurry. The

negro mind is quite capable of evolving a fabulous animal out of even

such slight grounds as this.

Of "creepy-crawlies" of all kinds the Karroo possesses more than

enough, and--like the snakes--they invade the house, and make

themselves at home in a manner which is free and easy rather than

pleasant. Legions of venomous centipedes, scorpions, and big,

bristly-legged spiders of the tarantula tribe lurk in the old reed

ceilings; from whence they drop playfully down now and then, to the

consternation of the unwary inmate sitting beneath, on whose head or

book they chance to land. Or, if they do not drop down on you, they lie

in wait about the room in well-chosen points of vantage, where their

sudden discovery is sure to give you a horrid jump, even if you are

lucky enough to get off without a venomous bite or sting.

One evening, as I was getting ready for bed--oblivious for once of

cautious habits acquired, years before, in that land of "jiggers," the

West Indies, where you never venture to walk slipperless, even across

your bedroom--my bare foot suddenly encountered what seemed like the

point of a red-hot needle sticking straight up out of the floor; and,

looking down, I found that I had trodden on a scorpion. Fortunately, it

was not one of the large black ones, which are the most venomous, but

only a light-coloured specimen, about two inches and a half in length.

It was, however, quite bad enough; and although T---- recklessly poured

away over the foot our whole photographic supply of ammonia, and made

me drink the greater part of a bottle of strong Cape wine in the hope

of neutralizing the poison--though, alas! only producing other and sad

results--it was many hours before that red-hot needle showed any signs

of cooling down. And then an exaggerated form of "pins and needles" set

in, followed by what resembled a succession of powerful electric shocks

running up the leg at intervals of two or three minutes. Altogether,

the victim of a scorpion's sting can well realize the feelings of gouty

patients, who dread to see even their best friends coming within five

or six yards of them. It was two days before I could put my foot to the

ground; and then, for several more, I could only hobble painfully with

the aid of a stick.

Colonial boys are fond of setting scorpions to fight with tarantulas.

The great spiders are most pugnacious, and seem only too glad of an

opportunity to fight with anything. T---- once watched one of them in

desperate battle with a centipede. The vicious spider, whose body was

as large as that of a mouse, seized his antagonist and shook him

savagely, just as a terrier shakes a rat; then, letting him go for a

time, he would spring upon him, pick him up, and worry him again,

apparently with fiendish pleasure. He continued this mode of warfare

until the final collapse of the poor centipede, whose pluck in facing

such an adversary at all deserves to be commended.

Prominent among insect nuisances are ants of many different sorts and

sizes, the worst of all being the mischievous rice ants. Many a carpet

or curtain is utterly ruined by these creatures, which have a trick of

coming up unexpectedly through the floor in large numbers, generally

during the night, when they can carry on their destructive work without

interruption. They work with a zeal worthy of a better cause, and the

amount of damage their powerful jaws can do in one night is almost

incredible.

Very pretty necklaces are made of the threaded eggs of one kind of ant.

They are rough and irregular in shape, and possess such a soft lustre,

that--but for their deep golden colour--they might almost be taken for

inferior pearls.

It is some satisfaction to know that the ranks of Cape ants are

considerably thinned by several inveterate enemies. One of these is

that strange burrowing animal the ant-bear, called by the Dutch

_aardvaark_ (earth-pig).[7] There is one in the Zoo; and it is about as

uncanny and nightmare-like a beast as could be imagined or dreamed

of--a sort of crazy combination of calf and pig, reminding one of the

Mock Turtle in "Alice's Adventures." Like that tearful animal, it

possesses a head and body which do not in the smallest degree appear to

belong to each other. The longest, narrowest and boniest of calves'

heads, so pallid and sickly in complexion, and so entirely hairless, as

to appear not only dead, but neatly scraped and cleaned all ready for

cooking, is joined--without the intervention of any neck to speak

of--to a fat, pig-like body, very scantily clothed with short, bristly

hairs. The eyes are large and dark, the bare, pink ears are of

rabbit-like proportions, and the calf's head terminates in a pig's

snout, thickly lined with hair. This latter is the only hirsute

adornment possessed by the goblin-like countenance, to which a very

cynical expression is given by the animal's ugly trick of wrinkling up

its enormously long snout. The thick legs, and the feet, armed with

large claws, are immensely strong; so, too, is the broad, flat, almost

hairless tail, about the shape of which there is something unpleasantly

suggestive of a puff-adder. The specimen in the Zoo has a damaged tail,

the result of the force the captors found it necessary to use in

dragging it from its hole. A riem was once tied to the tail of an

ant-bear, and a span of oxen fastened on to draw it out of the ground.

But, after much ineffectual tugging, the experiment ended in the

breaking of the riem--or of the tail--our informant had forgotten

which; at any rate the animal remained in its hole.

[7] _Orycteropus capensis._

Many a time does the unwary rider, cantering across the veldt, come to

sudden grief in one of the deep, trap-like holes made by the ant-bear,

which seems by no means an uncommon animal. But it is quite possible to

live many years in South Africa, and, however often you may tumble into

its holes, never once see the creature itself. For, being of nocturnal

habits, it is active only at night, when it tunnels its way underground

like a mole, occasionally coming to the surface, and now and then

emerging in very unexpected places.

Some members of a hunting-party, camping out for the night, were much

surprised to see the ground heave up suddenly in the centre of their

tent, the passing of an ant-bear a little below the surface being the

cause of the miniature earthquake. And during the war in Zululand an

Irish sentry was on guard at midnight, when suddenly, close to him, the

ground opened, and out of it rose a ghastly living Jack-in-the-box. The

moonbeams shone full on the horrid form, long head, and deadly-pale,

calf-like face; and the man--small blame to him--dropped his gun,

deserted his post, and fled in horror, shouting to his astonished

comrades the awful news that he had seen Old Nick himself! And indeed,

if, on one of our moonlight strolls about the farm, an ant-bear had

suddenly risen in our path, I am quite sure that we should have taken

to our heels with equal alacrity.

The cage of the Cape ant-bear at the Zoo being next to that of the

American ant-eater, a good opportunity is afforded for observing the

marked dissimilarity of the two animals, which indeed could hardly be

more unlike each other. One of the numerous points in which they differ

is that the American ant-eater is toothless, while the _aardvaark_

possesses teeth.

The ant-lion, so often pictured in books of natural history, is common

in the Karroo; and it was a great pleasure for us when, for the first

time, we saw him in real life, and examined his cleverly-constructed,

funnel-shaped trap, hollowed out in the soft, sliding sand,--down which

his victims tumble, to find him waiting open-mouthed at the bottom.

Talking of the ant-lion reminds one of another excavator, still more

familiar to Cape colonists, the trap-door spider. His "diggings" are in

the form of a perpendicular, cylinder-shaped box, the lid of which,

level with the surface of the ground, is so neatly made that it is

quite impossible to detect it when closed.

The walking-leaf tribe is very largely represented in South Africa; and

besides simulating leaves of many different kinds, the creatures assume

numerous other forms, some looking just like pieces of dried stick,

others like bits of straw, blades of grass, etc. The plant, or portion

of a plant, which they personate so admirably, is always the chosen

resting-place on which they sit, motionless and meditative, often

defying detection. The praying mantis is worshipped by the Hottentots,

who perhaps, like the ancient Greeks and Romans, look on him as a kind

of soothsayer or fortune-teller ([Greek: mantis]). But in spite of

being the Hottentot god, and of possessing such a pious-sounding

scientific name as _Mantis religiosa_, he is a most pugnacious little

beast; and if he has a difficulty to settle with one of his brethren,

the pair will fight it out like the Kilkenny cats.

Not long ago, at a North African picnic, one of these same little

creatures caused much amusement by the tact which he displayed in doing

just the right thing at the right time, and in the prettiest manner. It

was a very hot day, so close and oppressive that we all felt rather

languid; and conversation flagged as we sat at luncheon round the

table-cloth spread on the ground in the interior of a large tent.

Suddenly, during a long pause, a little mantis appeared on the scene.

With a jaunty air, and with all the cool self-possession of a popular

performer advancing, confident of success, towards the footlights, he

stepped on to the tablecloth, and, crossing it in a bee-line, drew up

before Her Britannic Majesty's Consul, to whom, with many jerky

inclinations of his gaunt, bright-green body, he made what appeared to

be a series of most obsequious bows. Then, having obeyed the first

requirements of etiquette, he passed slowly along the line of guests,

halting occasionally and paying his respects to one or the other. He

seemed quite unabashed by all the notice and applause which he

received; and as the plate in which he finally deposited himself was

handed round among the guests, he calmly surveyed each one in turn,

while continuing, very literally, to "bow and scrape." If he had been a

paid performer, engaged beforehand, he could not have played his little

part better; and all agreed in giving him a vote of thanks for his

timely appearance, which just gave us the mental pick-me-up which, on

that enervating day, we all needed. I believe some one carried him home

at last in a paper cage; though whether he fulfilled the brilliant

promise of his first introduction to human society, and became an

intelligent pet, we never heard.

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