Since all hopes of Göttingen were cut off, I now turned my eyes towards

Leipzig. There Ernesti appeared to me as a brilliant light; Morus,

too, already awakened much confidence*. I planned for myself in secret

an opposition-course, or rather I built a castle in the air, on a

tolerably solid foundation; and it seemed to me quite romantically

honourable to mark out my own path of life, which appeared the less

visionary, as Griesbach had already made great progress in a similar

way, and was commended for it by every one. The secret joy of a

prisoner, when he has unbound the fetters and rapidly filed through

the bars of his gaol-window, cannot be greater than was mine as I saw

day after day disappear, and October draw nigh. The inclement season

and the bad roads, of which everybody had something to tell, did not

frighten me. The thought of making good my footing in a strange place,

and in winter, did not make me sad; suffice it to say, that I only saw

my present situation was gloomy, and represented to myself the other

unknown world as light and cheerful. Thus I formed my dreams, to which

I gave myself up exclusively, and promised myself nothing but happiness

and content in the distance.

Closely as I kept these projects a secret from every one else, I could

not hide them from my sister, who, after being very much alarmed about

them at first, was finally consoled when I promised to send after her,

so that she could enjoy with me the brilliant station I was to obtain,

and share my comfort with me.

Michaelmas, so longingly expected, came at last, when I set out with

delight, in company with the bookseller Fleischer and his wife (whose

maiden name was Triller, and who was going to visit her father in

Wittemberg); and I left behind me the worthy city in which I had been

born and bred, with indifference, as if I wished never to set foot in

it again.

Thus, at certain epochs, children part from parents, servants from

masters, _protégés_ from their patrons; and whether it succeed or

not, such an attempt to stand on one's own feet, to make one's self

independent, to live for one's self, is always in accordance with the

will of nature.

[Side-note: Departure for Leipzig.]

We had driven out through the Allerheiligen (_All Saints_) gate, and

had soon left Hanau behind us, after which we reached scenes which

aroused my attention by their novelty, if, at this season of the year,

they offered little that was pleasing. A continual rain had completely

spoiled the roads, which, generally speaking, were not then in such

good order as we find them now; and our journey "was thus neither

pleasant nor happy. Yet I was indebted to this damp weather for the

sight of a natural phenomenon which must be exceedingly rare, for I

have seen nothing like it since, nor have I heard of its being observed

by others. At night, namely, we were driving up a rising ground

between Hanau and Gelhausen, and, although it was dark, we preferred

walking to exposing ourselves to the danger and difficulty of that

part of the road. All at once, in a ravine on the right-hand side of

the way, I saw a sort of amphitheatre, wonderfully illuminated. In a

funnel-shaped space there were innumerable little lights gleaming,

ranged step-fashion over one another, and they shone so brilliantly

that the eye was dazzled. But what stiff more confused the sight

was, that they did not keep still, but jumped about here and there,

as well downwards from above as _vice versâ_, and in every direction.

The most of them, however, remained stationary, and beamed on. It was

only with the greatest reluctance that I suffered myself to be called

away from this spectacle, which I could have wished to examine more

closely. On interrogating the postillion, he indeed knew nothing about

such a phenomenon, but said that there was in the neighbourhood an

old stone-quarry, the excavation of which was filled with water. Now

whether this was a pandemonium of will-o'-the-wisps, or a company of

shining creatures, I will not decide.

The roads through Thuringia were yet worse, and unfortunately, at

night-fall, our coach stuck fast in the vicinity of Auerstädt. We

were far removed from all mankind, and did everything possible to

work ourselves out. I failed not to exert myself zealously, and

might thereby have overstrained the ligaments of my chest; for soon

afterwards I felt a pain, which went off and returned, and did not

leave me entirely until after many years.

Yet on that same night, as if it had been destined for alternate good

and bad luck, I was forced, after an unexpectedly fortunate incident,

to experience a teazing vexation. We met, in Auerstädt, a genteel

married couple, who had also just arrived, having been delayed by a

similar accident; a pleasing, dignified man, in his best years, with a

very handsome wife. They politely persuaded us to sup in their company,

and I felt very happy when the excellent lady addressed a friendly

word to me. But when I was sent out to accelerate the soup which had

been ordered, not having been accustomed to the loss of rest and the

fatigues of travelling, such an unconquerable drowsiness overtook me,

that actually I fell asleep while walking, returned into the room with

my hat on my head, and without remarking that the others were saying

grace, placed myself with quiet unconsciousness behind the chair,

and never dreamed that by my conduct I had come to disturb their

devotions in a very droll way. Madame Fleischer, who lacked neither

spirit nor wit, nor tongue, entreated the strangers, before they had

seated themselves, not to be surprised at anything they might see

here; for that their young fellow-traveller had in his nature much of

the peculiarity of the Quakers, who believe that they cannot honour

God and the king better than with covered heads. The handsome lady,

who could not restrain her laughter, looked prettier than ever in

consequence, and I would have given everything in the world not to have

been the cause of a merriment which was so beautifully becoming in her

countenance. I had, however, scarcely laid aside my hat, than these

persons, in accordance with their polished manners, immediately dropped

the joke, and with the best wine from their bottle-case completely

extinguished sleep, chagrin, and the memory of all past troubles.

[Side-note: Leipzig.]

I arrived in Leipzig just at the time of the fair, from which I derived

particular pleasure: for here I saw before me the continuation of

a state of things belonging to my native city, familiar wares and

traders;--only in other places, and in a different order. I rambled

about the market and the booths with much interest, but my attention

was particularly attracted by the inhabitants of the Eastern countries

in their strange dresses, the Poles and Russians, and above all, the

Greeks, for the sake of whose handsome forms and dignified costume I

often went to the spot.

But this animating bustle was soon over, and now the city itself

appeared before me, with its handsome, high, and uniform houses. It

made a very good impression upon me, and it cannot be denied, that in

general, but especially in the silent moments of Sundays and holidays,

it has something imposing; and when in the moonlight the streets were

half in shadow, half-illuminated, they often invited me to nocturnal

promenades.

In the meantime, as compared with that to which I had hitherto been

accustomed, this new state of affairs was by no means satisfactory.

Leipzig calls up before the spectator no antique time; it is a new,

recently elapsed epoch, testifying commercial activity, comfort and

wealth, which announces itself to us in these monuments. Yet quite to

my taste were the huge-looking buildings, which, fronting two streets,

and embracing a citizen-world within their large court-yards, built

round with lofty walls, are like large castles, nay, even half-cities.

In one of these strange places I quartered myself, namely, in the

Bombshell Tavern (_Teuerkugel_), between the Old and the New Newmarket

(_Neumarkt._) A couple of pleasant rooms looking out upon a court-yard,

which, on account of the thoroughfare, was not without animation, were

occupied by the bookseller Fleischer during the fair; and by me taken

for the rest of the time at a moderate price. As a fellow-lodger I

found a theological student, who was deeply learned in his professional

studies, a sound thinker, but poor, and suffering much from his eyes,

which caused him great anxiety for the future. He had brought this

affliction upon himself by his inordinate reading till the latest dusk

of the evening, and even by moonlight, to save a little oil. Our old

hostess showed herself benevolent to him, always friendly to me, and

careful for us both.

[Side-note: Gellert.]

I now hastened-with my letters of introduction to Hofrath Böhme, who

once a pupil of Maskow, and now his successor, was professor of history

and public law. A little, thick-set, lively man, received me kindly

enough, and introduced me to his wife. Both of them, as well as the

other persons whom I waited on, gave me the pleasantest hopes as to

my future residence; but at first I let no one know of the design I

entertained, although I could scarcely wait for the favourable moment

when I should declare myself free from jurisprudence, and devoted to

the study of the classics. I cautiously waited till the Fleischers

had returned, that my purpose might not be too prematurely betrayed

to my family. But I then went, without delay, to Hofrath Böhme, to

whom, before all, I thought I must confide the matter, and with much

self-importance and boldness of speech disclosed my views to him.

However, I found by no means a good reception of my proposition. As

professor of history and public law, he had a declared hatred for

everything that savoured of the _belles lettres._ Unfortunately he

did not stand on the best footing with those who cultivated them, and

Gellert in particular, in whom I had, awkwardly enough, expressed much

confidence, he could not even endure. To send a faithful student to

those men, therefore, while he deprived himself of one, and especially

under such circumstances, seemed to him altogether out of the question.

He therefore gave me a severe lecture on the spot, in which he

protested that he could not permit such a step without the permission

of my parents, even if he approved of it himself, which was not the

case in this instance. He then passionately inveighed against philology

and the study of languages, but still more against poetical exercises,

which I had indeed allowed to peep out in the back-ground. He finally

concluded that, if I wished to enter more closely into the study of the

ancients, it could be done much better by the way of jurisprudence.

He brought to my recollection many elegant jurists, such as Eberhard,

Otto, and Heineccius, promised me mountains of gold from Roman

antiquities and the history of law, and showed me, clear as the sun,

that I should here be taking no roundabout way, even if afterwards,

on more mature deliberation, and with the consent of my parents, I

should determine to follow out my own plan. He begged me, in a friendly

manner, to think the matter over once more, and to open my mind to him

soon, as it would be necessary to come to a determination at once, on

account of the impending commencement of the lectures.

It was, however, very polite of him not to press me on the spot. His

arguments, and the weight with which he advanced them, had already

convinced my pliant youth, and I now first saw the difficulties and

doubtfulness of a matter which I had privately pictured to myself as so

feasible. Frau Hofrath Böhme invited me to see her shortly afterwards.

I found her alone. She was no longer young, and had very delicate

health, was gentle and tender to an infinite degree, and formed a

decided contrast to her husband, whose good-nature was even clustering.

She spoke of the conversation her husband had lately had with me, and

once more placed the subject before me, in all its bearings, in so

cordial a manner, so affectionately and sensibly, that I could not help

yielding; the few reservations on which I insisted were also agreed

upon by the other side.

Thereupon her husband regulated my hours: for I was to hear lectures on

philosophy, the history of law, the Institutes, and some other matters.

I was content with this; but I carried my point so as to attend

Gellert's history of literature (with Stockhausen for a text-book), and

his _Practicum_ besides.

The reverence and love with which Gellert was regarded by all young

people was extraordinary. I had already visited him, and had been

kindly received by him. Not of tall stature, elegant without being

lean, soft and rather pensive eyes, a very fine forehead, a nose

aquiline, but not too much so, a delicate mouth, a face of an agreeable

oval,--all made his presence pleasing and desirable. It cost some

trouble to reach him His two _Famuli_ appeared like priests who guard a

sanctuary, the access to which is not permitted to everybody, nor at

every time; and such a precaution was very necessary: for he would have

sacrificed his whole time, had he been willing to receive and satisfy

all those who wished to become intimate with him.

At first I attended my lectures assiduously and faithfully: but the

philosophy would not enlighten me at all. In the logic it seemed

strange to me that I had so to tear asunder, isolate, and, as it

were, destroy those operations of the mind which I had performed

with the greatest ease from my youth upwards, and this in order to

see into the right use of them. Of the thing itself, of the world,

and of God, I thought I knew about as much as the professor himself,

and in more places than one the affair seemed to me to come into a

tremendous strait. Yet all went on in tolerable order till towards

Shrovetide, when, in the neighbourhood of Professor Winkler's house on

the _Thomas-place_, the most delicious fritters came hot out of the

pan just at the hour of lecture, and these delayed us so long, that

our note-books became disordered, and the conclusion of them, towards

spring, melted away, together with the snow, and was lost.

It was soon quite as bad with the law lectures: for I already knew

just as much as the professor thought good to communicate to us. My

stubborn industry in writing down the lectures at first, was paralyzed

by degrees, for I found it excessively tedious to pen down once more

that which, partly by question, partly by answer, I had repeated with

my father often enough to retain it for ever in my memory. The harm

which is done when young people at school are advanced too far in many

things, was afterwards manifested still more when time and attention

were diverted from exercises in the languages, and a foundation in what

are, properly speaking, preparatory studies, in order to be applied to

what are called "Realities," which dissipate more than they cultivate,

if they are not methodically and thoroughly taught.

I here mention, by the way, another evil by which students are much

embarrassed. Professors, as well as other men in office, cannot all

be of the same age; but when the younger ones teach, in fact, only

that they may learn, and moreover, it they have talent, anticipate

their age, they acquire their own cultivation altogether at the cost

of their hearers, since these are not instructed in what they really

need, but in that which the professor finds it necessary to elaborate

for himself. Among the oldest professors, on the contrary, many are for

a long time stationary; they deliver on the whole only fixed views,

and, in the details, much that time has already condemned as useless

and false. Between the two arises a sad conflict, in which young minds

are dragged hither and thither, and which can scarcely be set right by

the middle-aged professors, who, though sufficiently instructed and

cultivated, always feel within themselves an active endeavour after

knowledge and reflection.

Now as in this way I learned to know much more than I could digest,

whereby a constantly increasing uncomfortableness was forced upon me,

so also from life I experienced many disagreeable trifles, as indeed

one must always pay one's footing when one changes one's place and

comes into a new position. The first thing that the ladies blamed in me

related to my dress; for I had come from home to the university rather

oddly equipped.

[Side-note: Domestic Tailoring.]

My father, who detested nothing so much as when something happened in

vain, when any one did not know how to make use of his time, or found

no opportunity for turning it to account, carried his economy of time

and abilities so far, that nothing gave him greater pleasure than to

kill two birds with one stone.[2] He had therefore never engaged a

servant who could not be useful to the house in something else. Now, as

he had always written everything with his own hand, and had, latterly,

the convenience of dictating to the young inmate of the house, he

found it most advantageous to have tailors for his domestics, who were

obliged to make good use of their time, as they not only had to make

their own liveries, but the clothes for my father and the children,

besides doing all the mending. My father himself took pains to have the

best cloths and stuffs, by getting fine wares of the foreign merchants

at the fair, and laying them up in store. I still remember well that

he always visited the Herrn von Löwenicht, of Aix-la-Chapelle, and

from my earliest youth made me acquainted with these and other eminent

merchants.

Care was also taken for the fitness of the stuff, and there was a

plentiful stock of different kinds of cloth, serge, and Götting stuff,

besides the requisite lining, so that, as far as the materials were

concerned, we might well venture to be seen. But the form spoiled

almost everything. For if one of our home-tailors was anything of a

clever hand at sewing and making up a coat which had been cut out for

him in masterly fashion, he was now obliged also to cut out the dress

for himself, which did not always succeed to perfection. In addition to

this my father kept whatever belonged to his clothing in very good and

neat order, and preserved more than used it for many years. Thus he had

a predilection for certain old cuts and trimmings, by which our dress

sometimes acquired a strange appearance.

In this same way had the wardrobe which I took with me to the

university been furnished: it was very complete and handsome, and

there was even a laced suit amongst the rest. Already accustomed to

this kind of attire, I thought myself sufficiently well dressed; but

it was not long before my female friends, first by gentle raillery,

then by sensible remonstrances, convinced me that I looked as if I had

dropped down out of another world. Much as I felt vexed at this, I did

not at first see how I could help myself. But when Herr von Masuren,

the favourite poetical country squire, once entered the theatre in a

similar costume, and was heartily laughed at, more by reason of his

external than his internal absurdity, I took courage, and ventured at

once to exchange my whole wardrobe for a new-fashioned one, suited to

the place, by which, however, it shrunk considerably.

After this trial was surmounted, a new one was to make its appearance,

which proved to be far more unpleasant, because it concerned a matter

which one does not so easily put off and exchange.

I had been born and bred in the Upper-German dialect, and although

my father always laboured after a certain purity of language, and,

from our youth upwards, had made us children attentive to what may

be really called the defects of that idiom, and so prepared us for a

better maimer of speaking, I retained nevertheless many deeper-seated

peculiarities, which, because they pleased me by their _naïveté_, I was

fond of making conspicuous, and thus every time I used them incurred

a severe reprimand from my new fellow-townsmen. The Upper-German, and

perhaps chiefly he who lives by the Rhine and Maine (for great rivers,

like the sea-coast, always have something animating about them),

expresses himself much in similes and allusions, and makes use of

proverbial sayings with a native common-sense aptness. In both cases

he is often blunt, but when one sees the drift of the expression, it

is always appropriate; only something, to be sure, may often slip in,

which proves offensive to a more delicate ear.

[Side-note: Provincial Dialect.]

Every province loves its own dialect: for it is, properly speaking,

the element in which the soul draws its breath. But every one knows

with what obstinacy the Misnian dialect has contrived to domineer over

the rest, and even, for a long time, to exclude them. We have suffered

for many years under this pedantic tyranny, and only by reiterated

struggles have all the provinces again established themselves in

their ancient rights. What a lively young man had to endure from this

continual tutoring, may be easily inferred by any one who reflects

that modes of thought, imagination, feeling, native character, must be

sacrificed with the pronunciation which one at last consents to alter.

And this intolerable demand was made by men and women of education,

whose convictions I could not adopt, whose injustice I believed I

felt, though I was unable to make it plain to myself. Allusions to the

pithy biblical texts were to be forbidden me, as well as the use of

the honest-hearted expressions from the Chronicles. I had to forget

that I had read the _Kaiser von Geisersberg_, and eschew the use of

proverbs, which nevertheless, instead of much fiddle-faddle, just hit

the nail upon the head;--all this, which I had appropriated to myself

with youthful ardour, I was now to do without; I felt myself paralyzed

to the core, and scarcely knew any more how I had to express myself on

the commonest things. I was told, besides, that one should speak as one

writes, and write as one speaks; while, to me, speaking and writing

seemed once for all two different things, each of which might well

maintain its own rights. And even in the Misnian dialect had I to hear

many things which would have made no great figure on paper.

Every one who perceives in this the influence which men and women

of education, the learned, and other persons who take pleasure in

refined society, so decidedly exercise over a young student, would

be immediately convinced that we were in Leipzig, even if it had not

been mentioned. Each one of the German universities has a particular

character: for, as no universal cultivation can pervade our fatherland,

every place adheres to its own fashion, and carries out, even to the

last, its own characteristic peculiarities; exactly the same thing

holds good of the universities. In Jena and Halle roughness had been

carried to the highest pitch: bodily strength, skill in fighting, the

wildest self-help was there the order of the day; and such a state of

affairs can only be maintained and propagated by the most universal

riot. The relations of the students to the inhabitants of those cities,

various as they might be, nevertheless agreed in this, that the wild

stranger had no regard for the citizen, and looked upon himself as a

peculiar being, privileged to all sorts of freedom and insolence. In

Leipzig, on the contrary, a student could scarcely be anything else

than polite, as soon as he wished to stand on any footing at all with

the rich, well-bred, and punctilious inhabitants.

All politeness, indeed, when it does not present itself as the

flowering of a great and comprehensive mode of life, must appear

restrained, stationary, and from some points of view, perhaps, absurd;

and so those wild huntsmen from the Saale[3] thought they had a great

superiority over the tame shepherds on the Pleisse.[4] Zachariä's

_Renommist_ will always be a valuable document, from which the manner

of life and thought at that time rises visibly forth; as in general

his poems must be welcome to every one who wishes to form for himself

a conception of the then prevailing state of social life and manners,

which was indeed feeble, but amiable on account of its innocence and

childlike simplicity.

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