We had become quite absorbed in the past and future, when some friends

who came in recalled us to the present. They were of those who know the

value of novelty, and therefore hasten to announce it first. They were

even able to tell of a fine humane trait in those exalted personages

whom we had seen go by with the greatest pomp. It had been concerted

that on the way, between Heusenstamm and the great tent, the Emperor

and King should find the Landgrave of Darmstadt in the forest. This

old prince, now approaching the grave, wished to see once more the

master to whom he had been devoted in former times. Both might remember

the day when the Landgrave brought over to Heidelberg the decree of

the Electors choosing Francis as Emperor, and replied to the valuable

presents he received with protestations of unalterable devotion.

These eminent persons stood in a grove of firs, and the Landgrave,

weak with old age, supported himself against a pine, to continue the

conversation, which was not without emotion on both sides. The place

was afterwards marked in an innocent way, and we young people sometimes

wandered to it.

Thus several hours had passed in remembrance of the old and

consideration of the new, when the procession, though curtailed and

more compact, again passed before our eyes, and we were enabled to

observe and mark the detail more closely, and imprint it on our minds

for the future.

From that moment the city was in uninterrupted motion; for until each

and every one whom it behoved, and of whom it was required, had paid

their respects to the highest dignities, and exhibited themselves one

by one, there was no end to the marching to and fro, and the court

of each one of the high persons present could be very conveniently

repeated in detail.

Now, too, the insignia of the Empire arrived. But that no ancient usage

might be omitted even in this respect, they had to remain half a day

till late at night in the open field, on recount of a dispute about

territory and escort between the Elector of Mentz and the city. The

latter yielded, the people of Mentz escorted the insignia as far as the

barricade, and so the affair terminated for this time.

[Side-note: At Evening with Gretchen.]

In these days I did not come to myself. At home I had to write and

copy; everything had to be seen; and so ended the month of March,

the second half of which had been so rich in festivals for us. I had

promised Gretchen a faithful and complete account of what had lately

happened, and of what was to be expected on the coronation-day. This

great day approached; I thought more how I should tell it to her than

of what properly was to be told; all that came under my eyes and my

pen I merely worked up rapidly for this sole and immediate use. At

last I reached her residence somewhat late one evening, and was not

a little proud to think how my discourse on this occasion would be

much more successful than the first unprepared one. But a momentary

incitement often brings us, and others through us, more joy than the

most deliberate purpose can afford; I found, indeed, pretty nearly the

same company, but there were some unknown persons among them. They sat

down to play, all except Gretchen and her younger cousin, who remained

with me at the slate. The dear girl expressed most gracefully her

delight that she, though a stranger, had passed for a citizen on the

election-day, and had taken part in that unique spectacle. She thanked

me most warmly for having managed to take care of her, and for having

been so attentive as to procure her, through Pylades, all sorts of

admissions by means of billets, directions, friends, and intercessions.

She liked to hear about the jewels of the Empire. I promised her that

we should, if possible, see these together. She made some jesting

remarks when she learned that the garments and crown had been tried

on the young king. I knew where she would gaze at the solemnities of

the coronation-day, and directed her attention to everything that was

impending, and particularly to what might be minutely inspected from

her place of view.

Thus we forgot to think about time; it was already past midnight; and I

found that I unfortunately had not the house-key with me. I could not

enter the house without making the greatest disturbance. I communicated

my embarrassment to her. "After all," said she, "it will be best for

the company to remain together." The cousins and the strangers had

already had this in mind, because it was not known where they would be

lodged for the night. The matter was soon decided; Gretchen went to

make some coffee, after bringing in and lighting a large brass lamp,

furnished with oil and wick, because the candles threatened to burn out.

The coffee served to enliven us for several hours, but the game

gradually slackened; conversation failed; the mother slept in the great

chair; the strangers, weary from travelling, nodded here and there, and

Pylades and his fair one sat in a corner. She had laid her head on his

shoulder and had gone to sleep, and he did not keep long awake. The

younger cousin sitting opposite to us by the slate, had crossed his

arms before him, and slept with his face resting upon them. I sat in

the window-corner, behind the table, and Gretchen by me. We talked in

a low voice: but at last sleep overcame her also, she leaned her head

on my shoulder, and sank at once into a slumber. Thus I now sat, the

only one awake, in a most singular position, in which the kind brother

of death soon put me also to rest. I went to sleep, and when I awoke

it was already bright day. Gretchen was standing before the mirror

arranging her little cap; she was more lovely than ever, and when I

departed cordially pressed my hands. I crept home by a roundabout way;

for, on the side towards the little _Stag-ditch_, my father had opened

a sort of little peep-hole in the wall, not without the opposition of

his neighbour. This side we avoided when we wanted not to be observed

by him in coming home. My mother, whose mediation always came in

well for us, had endeavoured to palliate my absence in the morning

at breakfast, by the supposition that I had gone out early, and I

experienced no disagreeable effects from this innocent night.

Taken as a whole, this infinitely various world which surrounded me,

produced upon me but a very simple impression. I had no interest but

to mark closely the outside of the objects, no business but that

with which I had been charged by my father and Herr von Königsthal,

by which, indeed, I perceived the inner course of things. I had no

liking but for Gretchen, and no other view than to see and apprehend

all properly, that I might be able to repeat it with her, and explain

it to her. Often when a train was going by, I described it half aloud

to myself, to assure myself of all the particulars, and to be praised

by my fair one for this attention and accuracy; the applause and

acknowledgments of the others I regarded as a mere appendix.

I was indeed presented to many exalted and distinguished persons; but

partly, no one had time to trouble himself about others, and partly,

older people do not know at once how they should converse with a young

man and try him. I, on my side, was likewise not particularly skilful

in adapting myself to people. Generally I acquired their favour, but

not their approbation. Whatever occupied me was completely present to

me; but I did not ask whether it might be also suitable t others. I

was mostly too lively or too quiet, and appeared either importunate

or sullen, just as persons attracted or repelled me; and thus I was

considered to be indeed full of promise, but at the same time was

declared eccentric.

[Side-note: The Coronation-Day.]

The coronation-day dawned at last, on the 3rd of April, 1764; the

weather was favourable, and everybody was in motion. I, with several of

my relations and friends, had been provided with a good place in one of

the upper stories of the Römer itself, where we might completely survey

the whole. We betook ourselves to the spot very early in the morning,

and from above, as in a bird's-eye view, contemplated the arrangements

which we had inspected more closely the day before. There was the

newly-erected fountain, with two large tubs on the left and right, into

which the double-eagle on the post was to pour from its two beaks white

wine on this side and red wine on that. There, gathered into a heap,

lay the oats; here stood the large wooden hut, in which we had several

days since seen the whole fat ox roasted and basted on a huge spit

before a charcoal fire. All the avenues leading out from the Römer,

and from other streets back to the Römer, were secured on both sides

by barriers and guards. The great square was gradually filled, and the

waving and pressure grew every moment stronger and more in motion, as

the multitude always, if possible, endeavoured to reach the spot where

some new scene arose, and something particular was announced.

All this time there reigned a tolerable stillness, and when the

alarm-bells were sounded, all the people seemed struck with terror

and amazement. What first attracted the attention of all who could

overlook the square from above, was the train in which the lords of

Aix and Nuremberg brought the crown-jewels to the cathedral. These, as

palladia, had been assigned the first place in the carnage, and the

deputies sat before them on the back seat with becoming reverence.

Now the three Electors betake themselves to the cathedral. After the

presentation of the insignia to the Elector of Mentz, the crown and

sword are immediately carried to the imperial quarters. The further

arrangements and manifold ceremonies occupied, in the interim, the

chief persons, as well as the spectators, in the church, as we other

well-informed persons could well imagine.

In the meanwhile before our eyes the ambassadors ascended to the

Römer, from which, the canopy is carried by the under-officers into

the imperial quarters. The Hereditary Marshal COUNT VON PAPPENHEIM

instantly mounts his horse; he was a very handsome, slender gentleman,

whom the Spanish costume, the rich doublet, the gold mantle, the

high feathered hat, and the loose flying hair, became very well. He

puts himself in motion, and, amid the sound of all the bells, the

ambassadors follow him on horseback to the quarters of the Emperor

in still greater magnificence than on the day of election. One would

have liked to be there too, as indeed on this day it would have been

altogether desirable to multiply one's-self. However, we told each

other what was going on there. Now the Emperor is putting on his

domestic robes, we said, a new dress, made after the old Carolingian

pattern. The hereditary officers receive the insignia, and with them

get on horseback. The Emperor in his robes, the Roman King in the

Spanish habit, immediately mount their steeds; and while this is done,

the endless procession which precedes them has already announced them.

The eye was already wearied by the multitude of richly-dressed

attendants and magistrates, and by the nobility who, in stately

fashion, were moving along; but when the Electoral envoys, the

hereditary officers, and at last, under the richly-embroidered canopy,

borne by twelve _Schöffen_ and senators, the Emperor, in romantic

costume, and to the left, a little behind him, in the Spanish dress,

his son, slowly floated along on magnificently-adorned horses, the eye

was no more sufficient for the sight. One would have liked to detain

the scene, but for a moment, by a magic charm; but the glory passed

on without stopping, and the space that was scarcely quitted was

immediately filled again by the crowd, which poured in like billows.

But now a new pressure took place; for another approach from the market

to the Römer gate had to be opened, and a road of planks to be bridged

over it, on which the train returning from the cathedral was to walk.

What passed within the cathedral, the endless ceremonies which

precede and accompany the anointing, the crowning, the dubbing of

knighthood,--all this we were glad to hear told afterwards by those who

had sacrificed much else to be present in the church.

The rest of us, in the interim, partook of a frugal repast; for in

this festal day we had to be contented with cold meat. But, on the

other hand, the best and oldest wine had beer brought out of all the

family-cellars, so that in this respect at least we celebrated the

ancient festival in ancient style.

In the square, the sight most worth seeing was now the bridge, which

had been finished, and covered with orange and white cloth; and we who

had stared at the Emperor, first in his carriage and then on horseback,

were now to admire him walking on foot. Singularly enough, the last

pleased us the most; for we thought that in this way he exhibited

himself both in the most natural and in the most dignified manner.

Older persons, who were present at the coronation of Francis the First,

related that Maria Theresa, beautiful beyond measure, had looked on

this solemnity from a balcony window of the Frauenstein house, close to

the Römer. As her consort returned from the cathedral in his strange

costume, and seemed to her, so to speak, like a ghost of Charlemagne,

he had, as if in jest, raised both his hands, and shown her the

imperial globe, the sceptre, and the curious gloves, at which she had

broken out into immoderate laughter, which served for the great delight

and edification of the crowd, which was thus honoured with a sight of

the good and natural matrimonial understanding between the most exalted

couple of Christendom. But when the Empress, to greet her consort,

waved her handkerchief, and even shouted a loud _vivat_ to him, the

enthusiasm and exultation of the people was raised to the highest, so

that there was no end to the cheers of joy.

[Side-note: The Coronation Procession.]

Now, the sound of bells, and the van of the long train which gently

made its way over the many-coloured bridge, announced that all was

done. The attention was greater than ever, and the procession more

distinct than before, particularly for us, since it now came directly

up to us. We saw it, as well as the whole of the square, which was

thronged with people, almost as if on a ground-plan. Only at the end

the magnificence was too much crowded; for the envoys, the hereditary

officers, the Emperor and King, under the canopy (_Baldachin_), the

three spiritual Electors, who immediately followed, the Schöffen

and senators, dressed in black, the gold embroidered canopy

(_Himmel_),--all seemed only one mass, which moved by a single will,

splendidly harmonious, and thus stepping from the temple amid the sound

of the bells, beamed towards us as something holy.

A politico-religious ceremony possesses an infinite charm. We behold

earthly majesty before our eyes, surrounded by all the symbols of its

power; but while it bends before that of heaven, it brings to our minds

the communion of both. For even the individual can only prove his

relationship with the Deity by subjecting himself and adoring.

The rejoicings, which resounded from the market-place, now spread

likewise over the great square, and a boisterous _vivat_ burst forth

from thousands upon thousands of throats, and doubtless from as many

hearts. For this grand festival was to be the pledge of a lasting

peace, which indeed for many a long year actually blessed Germany.

Several days before, it had been made known by public proclamation,

that neither the bridge nor the eagle over the fountain were to be

exposed to the people, and were therefore not, as at other times, to be

touched. This was done to prevent the mischief inevitable with such a

rush of persons. But in order to sacrifice in some degree to the genius

of the mob, persons expressly appointed went behind the procession,

loosened the cloth from the bridge, wound it up like a flag, and threw

it into the air. This gave rise to no disaster, but to a laughable

mishap; for the cloth unrolled itself in the air, and, as it fell,

covered a larger or smaller number of persons. Those now who took hold

of the ends and drew them towards themselves, pulled all those in the

middle to the ground, enveloped them and teased them till they tore or

cut themselves through, and everybody, in his own way, had borne off a

corner of the stuff made sacred by the footsteps of Majesty.

I did not long contemplate this rude sport, but hastened from my high

position, through all sorts of little steps and passages, down to the

great Römer stairs, where the distinguished and majestic mass, which

had been stared at from the distance, was to ascend in its undulating

course. The crowd was not great, because the entrances to the

council-house were well garrisoned, and I fortunately reached at once

the iron balustrades above. Now the chief personages ascended past me,

while their followers remained behind in the lower arched passages, and

I could observe them on the thrice broken stairs from all sides, and at

last quite close.

[Side-note: Coronation Ceremonies.]

Finally both their Majesties came up. Father and son were altogether

dressed like Menæchmi. The Emperor's domestic robes, of purple-coloured

silk, richly adorned with pearls and stones, as well as his crown,

sceptre, and imperial orb, struck the eye with good effect. For all in

them was new, and the imitation of the antique was tasteful. He moved,

too, quite easily in his attire, and his true-hearted, dignified face,

indicated at once the emperor and the father. The young King, on the

contrary, in his monstrous articles of dress, with the crown-jewels of

Charlemagne, dragged himself along as if he had been in a disguise,

so that he himself, looking at his father from time to time, could

not refrain from laughing. The crown, which it had been necessary to

line a great deal, stood out from his head like an overhanging roof.

The dalmatica, the stole, well as they had been fitted and taken in by

sewing, presented by no means an advantageous appearance. The sceptre

and imperial orb excited some admiration; but one would, for the sake

of a more princely effect, rather have seen a strong form, suited to

the dress, invested and adorned with it.

Scarcely were the gates of the great hall closed behind these figures,

than I hurried to my former place, which being already occupied by

others, I only regained with some trouble.

It was precisely at the right time that I again took possession of my

window; for the most remarkable part of all that was to be seen in

public was just about to take place. All the people had turned towards

the Römer, and a reiterated shout of _vivat_ gave us to understand

that the Emperor and King, in their vestments, were showing themselves

to the populace from the balcony of the great hall. But they were not

alone to serve as a spectacle, since another strange spectacle occurred

before their eyes. First of all, the handsome slender Hereditary

Marshal flung himself upon his steed; he had laid aside his sword;

in his right hand he held a silver-handled vessel, and a tin spatula

in his left. He rode within the barriers to the great heap of oats,

sprang in, filled the vessel to overflow, smoothed it off, and carried

it back again with great dignity. The imperial stable was now provided

for. The Hereditary Chamberlain then rode likewise to the spot, and

brought back a basin with ewer and towel. But more entertaining for

the spectators was the Hereditary Carver, who came to fetch a piece

of the roasted ox. He also rode, with a silver dish, through the

barriers, to the large wooden kitchen, and came forth again with his

portion covered, that he might go back to the Römer. Now it was the

turn of the Hereditary Cupbearer, who rode to the fountain and fetched

wine. Thus now was the imperial table furnished, and every eye waited

upon the Hereditary Treasurer, who was to throw about the money. He,

too, mounted a fine steed, to the sides of whose saddle, instead of

holsters, a couple of splendid bags embroidered with the arms of the

Palatinate, were suspended. Scarcely had he put himself in motion than

he plunged his hands into these pockets, and generously scattered right

and left gold and silver coins, which on every occasion glittered

merrily in the air like metallic rain. A thousand hands waved instantly

in the air to catch the gifts; but hardly had the coins fallen than the

crowd tumbled over each other on the ground, and struggled violently

for the pieces which might have reached the earth. As this agitation

was constantly repeated on both sides as the giver rode forwards, it

afforded the spectators a very diverting sight. It was most lively at

the close, when he threw out the bags themselves, and everybody tried

to catch this highest prize.

Their Majesties had retired from the balcony, and another offering

was to be made to the mob, who, on such occasions, would rather steal

the gifts than receive them tranquilly and gratefully. The custom

prevailed, in more rude and uncouth times, of giving up to the people

on the spot the oats, as soon as the Hereditary Marshal had taken away

his share, the fountain and the kitchen, after the cup-bearer and the

carver had performed their offices. But this time, to guard against all

mischief, order and moderation were preserved as far as possible. But

the old malicious jokes, that when one filled a sack with oats another

cut a hole in it, with sallies of the kind, were revived. About the

roasted ox, a serious battle on this occasion, as usual, was waged.

This could only be contested _en masse._ Two guilds, the butchers and

the wine-porters, had, according to ancient custom, again stationed

themselves so that the monstrous roast must fall to one of the two.

The butchers believed that they had the best right to an ox which they

provided entire for the kitchen; the wine-porters, on the other hand,

laid claim because the kitchen was built near the abode of their

guild, and because they had gained the victory the last time, the horns

of the captured steer still projecting from the latticed gable-window

of their guild and meeting-house as a sign of victory. Both these

companies had very strong and able members; but which of them conquered

this time, I no longer remember.

[Side-note: The Ox and The Wooden Kitchen.]

But as a festival of this kind must always close with something

dangerous and frightful, it was really a terrible moment when the

wooden kitchen itself was made a prize. The roof of it swarmed

instantly with men, no one knowing how they got there, the boards were

torn loose, and pitched down, so that one could not help supposing,

particularly at a distance, that each would kill a few of those

pressing to the spot. In a trice the hut was unroofed, and single

individuals hung to the beams and rafters, in order to pull them also

out of their joinings; nay, many floated above upon the posts which had

been already sawn off below, and the whole skeleton, moving backwards

and forwards, threatened to fall in. Sensitive persons turned their

eyes away, and everybody expected a great calamity; but we did not hear

of any mischief, and the whole affair, though impetuous and violent,

had passed off happily.

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