is slowly but surely losing its choicest plants, and during a recent
visit there with George Redles, John F. Sibson, its efficient manager,
attributed its losses to noxious gases proceeding from the steel works
near by. Here, in addition to plants previously noted, are superior
specimens of barberry (berberis vulgaris), weeping dog-wood (cornus
F. variety pendula), common beech (fagus ferruginea), a fine specimen
of Virginian fringe tree (chionanthus Virginica), and a larch of
perfect proportions, 2 feet in diameter and 40 feet high. To compare
with these, along Wingohocken creek, immediately north of the “Rocky
Mountains” in Meehans’ nurseries, is a grove of fringe trees very
beautiful when in flower, and at Manheim there is a magnificent larch,
2 feet in diameter of trunk, rising to a height of 80 feet.
The finest larch in Germantown once stood on the grounds of Hugh
McLean, corner of Carpenter lane and Cresheim road, but this great tree
a few years ago unfortunately met its fate.
At Thomas Jones’, Manheim street and Wissahickon avenue, is a holly
(ilex opaca) 15 feet high, with a spread of 15 feet, a beautiful
specimen, but equaled by two notable plants at Vernon, and surpassed by
Wister Price’s specimen on Manheim grounds, a tree having a trunk 1½
feet in diameter, 25 feet high, with a branch spread of 20 feet. Here
also is a rare virgilia, the first, and once the finest specimen in
cultivation,--a tree now showing the ravages of old age, but none the
less interesting. A virgilia younger (cladrastis tinctoria), vigorous
and beautiful, overhangs the gate of “Grumblethorpe,” Main street,
opposite Queen street, and is the best of its species I know in our
territory.
The charms of “Caernarvon” have flown, but Manheim possesses a beauty
of its own, one of its many attractions being the finest group of
rhododendrons (rhododendron maximum) in Germantown. The neighborhood of
Manheim to me is of great interest, but we may not stop to consider its
historic associations nor to refer to all its plants worthy of notice.
By far the finest silver maple in Germantown stood on the grounds of
Louis Clapier Baumann, at corner of Manheim and Henry streets. This
fine tree some years ago I measured, and when it was felled to make
way for improvements these measurements were verified by John Holt.
The tree was perfect in every particular, of commanding height, and
was a notable landmark of Manheim street. An account of this plant
I prepared for “Forest Leaves,” of June, 1897, wherein it is described
as being 138 feet in height. At half its altitude it had a spread of 35
feet on every side of the main trunk, and at 1 foot above the ground
the trunk was 4⅓ feet in diameter.
[Illustration: L. C. Baumann]
We have many fine specimens of silver maple continuing, and one of the
finest stands on Cresheim road, near Gorgas street. Another appears to
the rear of Dr. John D. Godman’s house, Main street, opposite Pastorius
street. Another, and a very striking one, stands at the corner of West
Walnut lane and Adams street, but this tree a few years ago was visited
by marauders and now it is but a relic of its former greatness. At “The
Corvy,” the residence of William Wynne Wister, there are several silver
maples, not specially great, but of interest because they are directly
on Main street and shade Gilbert Stuart’s house.
It is recorded that Jacques Marie Roset, who lived on the upper side
of Manheim street, adjoining James R. Gates’ lumber yard, and not at
“Spring Alley,” as has oft been reported, had a beautiful garden,
the products of which it is said he loved to distribute, one of
his recipients being Fanny Kemble, who from her home on York road
frequently passed this way on driving trips, a recreation she always
loved. It is also recorded that Roset first introduced tomatoes to
Germantown, but this does not appear to be correct, for the credit
belongs, I think, to E. B. Gardette, whose place on Wissahickon avenue,
opposite Manheim street, is marked by three notable pine trees rising
to a height of 80 feet.
This gentleman came to America during the Revolutionary period, and it
is said his gardener first grew the tomato (lycopersicum esculentum),
or love apple, for the color of its fruit. Melons or canteloupes were
also first raised here, it has been stated, but this I have never been
able to verify, “for the seed of the canteloupe was brought to this
country from Tripoli, and distributed by Commodore James Barron,” so I
give the credit for what it is worth.
This, however, I know, Philip R. Freas, a neighbor of Commodore Barron,
had a canteloupe patch which the “brickyard” boys well knew, and about
it I doubt not Philip Walters, and George Redles--who having reached
years of discrimination, has now no need to ask if it be “true that
horses when old never lie down”--can tell you more than I.
Baumann’s great maple grew on ground which once belonged to “White
Cottage,” an estate at one time owned by the Logans. Here lived Dr.
Samuel Betton, who was succeeded by his son, Dr. Thomas Forrest Betton,
the friend of Rafinesque, and here under Samuel Betton, its present
occupant and owner, William Kulp, well known to many of us, has been
many years gardener. Recent changes have robbed “White Cottage” of
its seclusion, but with it yet continue many beautiful ivy-dressed
trees, which spread their branches over the grounds, in season almost
shielding the house from view.
Near General Wayne Hotel, on Manheim street, is a specially fine
ailanthus (ailanthus glandulosus) 2½ feet in diameter of trunk,
with a height of 50 feet, and at the Keyser-Rodney House, Main and
Duval streets, and on Garrett’s Hill, opposite Lovett Library are
conspicuous superior specimens. Also on Manheim street, near Main
street, is a honey-locust tree (gleditschia triacanthos) with a trunk
3 feet in diameter by 80 feet high, and larger and finer specimens
are on Pulaski avenue, near Seymour street, and in front of Michael
Schlatter’s stone house, Main street, near where the road turns off for
“Wheel Pump,” Chestnut Hill.
At “Carlton” is a magnificent beech (fagus ferruginea) 3 feet in
diameter of trunk, with a height of 60 feet and a spread of 40 feet,
the finest specimen I know in our territory. We have many fine
beeches, one being at “Awbury,” and another at Miss Nixon’s, on East
Tulpehocken street. There are also exceedingly fine specimens at George
L. Harrison’s, on West School House lane; at William Heft’s, on Main
street; at “Fernhill,” and at places elsewhere, too many to name.
By George Redles my attention was directed to a large dogwood (cornus
Florida) growing near Queen Lane basin, and there true to life, between
the basin and Midvale avenue, may be seen a notable specimen 1½ feet in
diameter by 20 feet high, with a spread of 20 feet, and here are two
sassafras trees (sassafras officinalis) 2 feet in diameter by 40 feet
high, both notable plants, one, however, surpassing the other in form.
These are remarkable plants, and stand on historic ground, once part of
“Carlton.”
Here the army of Washington was encamped, and here during an encampment
of the Civil War Joseph Meehan, botanist and horticulturist, active
among us, first did “picket duty.” Here also is a tulip poplar, 4
feet in diameter and 100 feet high, not equal to Wakefield’s notable
specimen, but yet a plant of great merit.
We have many superior tulip poplars, one being at “Woodside,” Edward
T. Steel’s residence on West School House lane, 4 feet in diameter and
100 feet high; another on John Wagner’s grounds on the same lane being
5 feet in diameter and 60 feet high. There are also several fine tulip
poplars at Thomas MacKellar’s, on Shoemaker’s lane, but the finest
specimen here, like the Blair linden at Main street and Walnut lane,
has been despoiled.
At “Torworth,” the residence of Justus C. Strawbridge, and also at
“Blathewood,” Joseph S. Lovering’s place adjoining, we have very
fine specimens of hemlock (tsuga canadensis), as indeed we have in
many parts of Germantown, but our finest hemlock trees are in the
Wissahickon, where almost the entire southern bank of its romantic
stream is fringed by this refreshing tree, and wherein are groups or
groves above Kitchen’s or Garsed’s lane, above Allen’s lane, at Devil’s
Pool, beside Megargee’s dam, and near Rex avenue, plants ranging from
1½ to 2 feet in diameter and from 60 to 80 feet in height. Also near
Rex avenue bridge is a specimen hemlock of graceful proportions, having
a trunk 2½ feet in diameter and rising to a height of 100 feet.
Among our most interesting plants are the native “Jersey pines,” which
appear sparingly about Germantown. With us are two varieties, that
on School House lane, opposite Gypsy lane, and others in the same
neighborhood extending to the mouth of the Wissahickon, are technically
known as pinus inops.
[Illustration: Hemlock Glen]
At Walnut lane and Wissahickon avenue is a specimen of pinus rigida
one foot in diameter and 30 feet high. At James A. Mason’s, near
Upsal Station, is a group of pinus inops. At Thomas’ Mill road on the
Wissahickon, and eastward on the same road in the open above Towanda
street, are from one to two hundred pinus rigida, interesting survivors
of a flora supplanted. On Stenton avenue, near Bethesda Home, we have
an isolated group of pinus inops, and at County Line road and Limekiln
pike, also on Mt. Airy avenue near Main street are solitary specimens
of the same species.
The Wissahickon is covered by numerous valuable plants, but of these
a majority is too densely crowded to develop to the best advantage.
Several years ago Thomas Meehan in Meehans’ Monthly, asked for data of
sassafras trees, the text-books and general information agreeing that
the average height of mature specimens of this plant to be 30 feet.
At “Solitude” and at the “Indian Mound,” on E. W. Clark’s grounds,
School House lane, there are specimens rising to a greater than this
height, and at Tulpehocken and Musgrave streets were twin specimens,
one now surviving, exceeding this height, and finely formed. Near the
“Suicide’s Grave,” north of Rabbit lane, George Redles informed me
there is a specially fine specimen. In the Wissahickon, near Thorp’s
lane, I measured a slender specimen 80 feet in height, but the finest
plants of this species I know were those measured for me by Joseph
Heacock, two plants growing near Media, each three feet in diameter and
80 feet high.
About home we have numerous and exceedingly fine specimens of
juniper (juniperus virginiana). Almost wherever one goes these may
be observed--along the borders of Wissahickon, at “Bummers’ Cave” on
Stenton avenue, on Chew street north of Johnson street, a place known
to Ellwood Johnson as “Vinegar Hill,” and at Tulpehocken street and
Wingohocken creek. This latter tree has a trunk 3 feet in diameter and
is 35 feet high. A short time ago it was a healthy, beautiful specimen,
but now it is partly or wholly dead, a plant when in its prime
approached in my knowledge only by two like it which grow on Sumneytown
pike, near “Indian Creek Meeting.” At Roberts Le Boutillier’s on East
Washington lane, and elsewhere near, there are many other specimens
worthy of record, but space and time details and elaboration forbid.
The deep frost of last winter played havoc with many plants, partly
or wholly destroying box, ivy and other evergreens not usually
affected. The celebrated evergreen magnolia (magnolia grandiflora) at
Lippincott’s, Broad and Sansom streets, Philadelphia, entirely dropped
its leaves; in many ponds all the fish were killed, and losses in other
directions one may not yet undertake to estimate. Untouched, however,
we have many box-bordered garden walks, such as may be seen at “White
Cottage,” at “Grumblethorpe,” at “Wyck,” at Spring Bank, at C. M.
Bayard’s, on upper Main street; formal designs set in green like those
at Robert S. Newhall’s, Main and Gorgas streets; but the most elaborate
and most perfect of our box borders are those adorning the garden of
George C. Thomas, at Blue Bell Hill, protected by beautiful hedges of
osage orange, arbor vitae and neatly clipped hemlock.
I never pass “Spring-bank” without thinking of John Welsh, its late and
honored owner. Here I often saw him walking “in the cool of the day”
under the shade of the “glorious” trees which line the front of the
estate, and, always excepting Wyck, there is not to me in Germantown a
more delightful spot. Here we have already noted a few plants, and we
shall stop only to look at a perfect tulip poplar, 3 feet in diameter
at trunk, with branches rising to 80 feet, a tree vouched for by Martin
Constable, the gardener, as “planted by John Welsh himself,” also here
is a specimen oak now 20 feet high, the acorn producing which N. Dubois
Miller told me was brought from Jerusalem and here grown. In this
direction we shall now go no further, but will southward turn, and by
way of Main street, which we left at Stenton, proceed to a conclusion.
Naglee’s and “Joe Nafle’s” we shall pass, and the Loudoun pines we have
already noted.
Since the days of John Hart progress has here forced its way, and
many fine plants, including those on the adjoining grounds of James
S. Huber, have retreated before its irresistless advance, and the
great tree on the hill equipped with a swing, like “Green’s Meadow,”
implanted in the memory of every “Smearsburg” girl and boy of the last
generation, is gone forever. Toland’s and Wagner’s and Henry’s are
holding out “like grim death,” but it is only a question of time when
“Wayne Junction” shall overwhelm them.
It is a pity I have often thought that fruit trees are not more often
planted for shade, and native sweet-scented flowering plants for
bloom, in a measure to bring the best of orchards and woods to home,
and thus more directly beauty and utility combine. Our wood plants
without exception may be readily grown if removed at a suitable time
and properly planted, and I have never had failure in growing laurel
(kalmia latifolia), arbutus (epigaea repens), and other of our native
plants considered difficult to transplant.
Those of us familiar with Main street and Chelten avenue 25 years ago
may remember “Tinker” Frey’s famous swamp magnolia (magnolia glauca).
This is no more, but we have now at George Redles’ on Wister street;
at Dr. Herman Burgin’s on West Chelten avenue; near Christ’s Church
rectory on West Tulpehocken street; fine specimens of this common in
New Jersey swamps, but rare in cultivation, plant.
Virginian fringe tree, perfectly hardy, and a very beautiful plant in
bloom, although we have several fine specimens, is not common enough
in gardens, exceptions not subject to this criticism being conspicuous
and notable plants on the grounds of Dillwyn Wistar, Wayne street
near Coulter street; Samuel Emlen, Coulter street near Greene street;
and Charles M. Bayard, Main street near Carpenter lane. Fringe tree
appears spontaneously as far north as the southern counties of New
Jersey, and several years ago it was found by Joseph Meehan in the
woods near Millville, though before this it had been collected in the
same district by Dr. J. B. Brinton. These, with Judas tree (cercis
canadensis), elder-berry (sambucus canadensis) and our native dog-woods
in variety, are but a few of many worthy native plants, but enough, I
hope, to direct attention to the subject.
A creeping yew (taxus adpressa) appears in front of “Conyngham House”
or “Hacker House,” Main street, opposite Bringhurst street, but is not
equal to the famous plant once at Upsala, yet, however, there is a
most beautiful specimen of this rare evergreen in the garden of Edward
Hacker on Wister street. On grounds to the rear of Conyngham House are
several valuable plants for data of which I am indebted to Miss Howell.
Here was one of “the first wild flower gardens” of later Germantown,
containing plants from many parts of the United States, but a garden
of which only a trace now remains. Here also is “the finest grove of
over-cup oaks (quercus macrocarpa) about, so Thomas Meehan always
said,” “and a specimen of strange weeping oak” (quercus pendula).
“Grumblethorpe,” one of our most familiar homes, is now before us,
and its plants are second only to its other possessions. Its occupant
and owner is Charles J. Wister, to whom credit earned fully given
would seem but empty flattery. Here all his long life lived Charles J.
Wister the father, a man whom his neighbor, John Jay Smith, pronounced
“the greatest botanist living,” and here amidst the sanctity of its
associations lives the son, a most worthy successor. Quoting from
an article written several years ago by William E. Meehan, which is
sufficiently full for our purpose, there is growing at “Grumblethorpe”
“a number of interesting trees, among them three old pear trees, two
late Catherine and one sugar pear. There are records to show that
these trees are about 150 years old. The sugar pear, which still bears
abundantly, is 50 or 60 feet high, and has a girth of six feet. An aged
ivy has completely overgrown the trunk and has climbed almost to the
topmost branches. A very fine specimen of the famous larch of the Alps,
familiar to every student of Swiss Alpine scenery, is also growing on
these grounds. This tree, knotted and gnarled with age, has a trunk 5½
feet in circumference, and the tree is probably the finest of its kind
around the city.”
[Illustration: Charles J. Wister]
A Japanese Ginko tree, which was among the first importations, is also
among the curiosities of the Wister place, and, it may be well to
add, this is the first recorded ginko in America to fruit. “About
1830 Charles J. Wister planted one of the first ailanthus (ailanthus
glandulosus) brought from China. This is one of the most rapid growers
of any known tree, and has attained a height of over 70 feet, and has a
girth of 12 feet 2 inches.”
Here also is a rare specimen of papaw (asimina triloba), a tree equaled
only by one of the same kind at “Wyck,” one foot in diameter by 40
feet high. “A gray poplar (populus alba), introduced about the latter
part of the last century from Italy, is also growing in Mr. Wister’s
grounds. Its trunk measures 10 feet 4 inches, and its branches cover a
great area of ground.”
When we remember that the old fruit trees of “Grumblethorpe” have lived
through the busiest life of our town, and yet bear as they did at a
time when Christopher Saur in a building close by printed pamphlets and
books now highly prized, we may well halt for a moment of reverential
meditation, not for the trees and their produce, but for the power
which gave them life, which sustained them, and which has given them to
us. Interesting trees the garden of “Grumblethorpe” suggest, are the
Chancellor pear, which originated on the grounds of William Chancellor,
School House lane, adjoining Germantown Academy, and the original
Keiffer pear, produced by Peter Keiffer at his nursery on Livezey’s
lane, west of Wissahickon creek.
While in the vicinity of Germantown Academy, let us notice there a
beautiful specimen of blood-leaved maple (acer J. atropurpureum), and
also one of equal worth on the grounds of Miss Jane E. Hart, diagonally
opposite.
These plants are very fine though small,--but superior specimens may be
noted at Dr. James Darrach’s, Greene street, near Harvey street,--and
at Mrs. Thomas W. Evans’, Cliveden avenue and Main street, the latter
our representative plant.
Thanks to Meehans’ nurseries, we have many fine specimens of this showy
tree about Germantown, and among a number known to us one of the best
is on the grounds of William Rotch Wister, Wisteria avenue. Also in the
garden of Samuel Emlen, West Coulter street, among other rare plants is
the most beautiful specimen of cut-leaved maple (acer J. dissectum a.)
I have ever seen.
Passing the residence and one-time garden of the “annalist” John
Fanning Watson, we now turn in Penn street to visit “Ivy Lodge,” the
home of John Jay Smith, whose long, useful life was here lived, where
much of his best work was done, and from whence he departed to the
habitations of the “just made perfect.” “Ivy Lodge” is of interest in
many ways, but we shall stop only to mention a sun-dial with a noted
inscription associated with Stenton, and one of two original “constable
boxes” which once did service for the “borough,” the other box being
preserved at Manheim,--and present a few plants. Both dial and box are
conspicuous objects in the garden, and surrounding them are some of
the rarest shrubs and trees in our midst. Far more than I am here able
to give, credit is due Miss Elizabeth P. Smith, a daughter of John J.
Smith. At “Ivy Lodge” is a specially fine specimen of weeping beech
(fagus H. var. pendula), a memorial red oak (quercus rubra) planted by
Miss Smith’s mother, and an immense black oak (quercus nigra). Also
here once grew a notable juniper (juniperus squarrata), and several
specimens of araucaria.
Miss Smith told me her father many times here tried to raise araucarias
(araucaria imbricata) in the open, but never succeeded in keeping them
over three years, this much being “considered quite an achievement.”
In England araucarias of great height are quite common, so I doubt not
the length and severity of our winters is responsible for the plant’s
non-existence in our gardens. At “Ivy Lodge” are several fine mahonias
(mahonia aquifolium) of 35 years’ growth, and with the exception of
a small specimen growing on the grounds of Edward Hacker, on Wister
street, here is the only cedar of Lebanon (cedrus libani) to my
knowledge growing strictly within the town limits. This is a fine plant
about 25 feet in height, and is one of two memorial trees planted in
1852 by John Jay Smith and John Granville Penn, the latter the last
of the “proprietor’s” line, in honor of William Penn and James Logan.
The “William Penn” tree, planted by a descendant of James Logan, is
the plant we may see. The James Logan tree planted by a descendant of
William Penn, is no more, having gone the way of “all the earth.”
Until a few years ago there was on the grounds of Colonel Galloway
C. Morris, on East Tulpehocken street, a very fine cedar of Lebanon,
but this to make room for improvements was destroyed. A “cut” of this
plant, however, survives, and with a description may be seen in Vol.
I, page 39, of Meehans’ Monthly. Our best and most notable cedars of
Lebanon stand in North Laurel Hill Cemetery, and these grown under the
care of John Jay Smith are said not to be excelled in America.
I wonder how many who pass up and down Main street, or who visit the
Friends’ Library, notice the trees at “Friends’ Meeting.” To me these
are always a delight, and I love to look back into the spacious,
restful grounds, for here and wherever these “meetings” are is a
picture of peace. We all are apt to know more about “green hills” far
away than of those immediately before us, for the things at hand often
appear ordinary, while those heard of or seen under unusual conditions
are rated by an exalted measure.
Walking in the Wissahickon upon two occasions with men of travel, I
asked, “Did you ever see a more beautiful place?” One answered, “It is
very much like the scenery of New Zealand, but it is better.” Another
said, “I have traveled throughout Europe, and the only place that will
compare at all with it is the Trossachs in Scotland, but in extent it
is insignificant compared to this.” Henry Carvill Lewis, who “circled
the globe” before attaining his “majority,” told me in all his travels
he saw nothing that in his estimation approached the beauty of the
Wissahickon, and others who have traveled far and who lived long abroad
have told me “the Wissahickon is incomparable.”