I. GYPSIES IN PHILADELPHIA.

It is true that the American gypsy has grown more vigorous in this

country, and, like many plants, has thriven better for being trans--I was

about to write incautiously _ported_, but, on second thought, say

_planted_. Strangely enough, he is more Romany than ever. I have had

many opportunities of studying both the elders from England and the

younger gypsies, born of English parents, and I have found that there is

unquestionably a great improvement in the race here, even from a gypsy

stand-point. The young sapling, under more favorable influences, has

pushed out from the old root, and grown stronger. The causes for this

are varied. Gypsies, like peacocks, thrive best when allowed to range

afar. _Il faut leur donner le clef des champs_ (you must give them the

key of the fields), as I once heard an old Frenchman, employed on

Delmonico's Long Island farm, lang syne, say of that splendid poultry.

And what a range they have, from the Atlantic to the Pacific! Marry,

sir, 't is like roaming from sunrise to sunset, east and west, "and from

the aurora borealis to a Southern blue-jay," and no man shall make them

afraid. Wood! "Well, 't is a _kushto tem for kasht_" (a fair land for

timber), as a very decent _Romani-chal_ said to me one afternoon. It was

thinking of him which led me to these remarks.

I had gone with my niece--who speaks Romany--out to a gypsyry by Oaklands

Park, and found there one of our good people, with his wife and children,

in a tent. Hard by was the wagon and the horse, and, after the usual

initiatory amazement at being accosted in the _kalo jib_, or black

language, had been survived, we settled down into conversation. It was a

fine autumnal day, Indian-summery,--the many in one of all that is fine

in weather all the world over, put into a single glorious sense,--a sense

of bracing air and sunshine not over-bold or bright, and purple, tawny

hues in western skies, and dim, sweet feelings of the olden time. And as

we sat lounging in lowly seats, and talked about the people and their

ways, it seemed to me as if I were again in Devonshire or Surrey. Our

host--for every gypsy who is visited treats you as a guest, thus much

Oriental politeness being deeply set in him--had been in America from

boyhood, but he seemed to be perfectly acquainted with all whom I had

known over the sea. Only one thing he had not heard, the death of old

Gentilla Cooper, of the Devil's Dyke, near Brighton, for I had just

received a letter from England announcing the sad news.

"Yes, this America is a good country for travelers. _We can go South in

winter_. Aye, the land is big enough to go to a warm side in winter, and

a cool one in summer. But I don't go South, because I don't like the

people; I don't get along with them. _Some Romanys do_. Yes, but I'm

not on that horse, I hear that the old country's getting to be a hard

place for our people. Yes, just as you say, there's no _tan to hatch_,

no place to stay in there, unless you pay as much as if you went to a

hotel. 'T isn't so here. Some places they're uncivil, but mostly we can

get wood and water, and a place for a tent, and a bite for the old _gry_

[horse]. The country people like to see us come, in many places.

They're more high-minded and hon'rable here than they are in England. If

we can cheat them in horse-dealin' they stand it as gentlemen always

ought to do among themselves in such games. Horse-dealin' is

horse-stealin', in a way, among real gentlemen. If I can Jew you or you

do me, it's all square in gamblin', and nobody has any call to complain.

Therefore, I allow that Americans are higher up as gentlemen than what

they are in England. It is not all of one side, like a jug-handle,

either. Many of these American farmers can cheat me, and have done it,

and are proud of it. Oh, yes; they're much higher toned here. In

England, if you put off a _bavolengro_ [broken-winded horse] on a fellow

he comes after you with a _chinamangri_ [writ]. Here he goes like a man

and swindles somebody else with the _gry_, instead of sneaking off to a

magistrate.

"Yes," he continued, "England's a little country, very little, indeed,

but it is astonishing how many Romanys come out of it over here. _Do I

notice any change in them after coming_? I do. When they first come,

they drink liquor or beer all the time. After a while they stop heavy

drinking."

I may here observe that even in England the gypsy, although his getting

drunk is too often regulated or limited simply by his means, seldom shows

in his person the results of long-continued intemperance. Living in the

open air, taking much exercise, constantly practicing boxing, rough

riding, and other manly sports, he is "as hard as nails," and generally

lives to a hearty old age. As he very much prefers beer to spirits, it

may be a question whether excess in such drinking is really any serious

injury to him. The ancestors of the common English peasants have for a

thousand, it may be for two thousand, years or more all got drunk on

beer, whenever they could afford it, and yet a more powerful human being

than the English peasant does not exist. It may be that the weaklings

all die at an early age. This I cannot deny, nor that those who survive

are simply so tough that beer cannot kill them. What this gypsy said of

the impartial and liberal manner in which he and his kind are received by

the farmers is also true. I once conversed on this subject with a

gentleman farmer, and his remarks were much like those of the Rom. I

inferred from what he said that the coming of a party of gypsy

horse-dealers into his neighborhood was welcomed much as the passengers

on a Southern steamboat were wont of old to welcome the proprietor of a

portable faro bank. "I think," said he, "that the last time the gypsies

were here they left more than they took away." An old Rom told me once

that in some parts of New Jersey they were obliged to watch their tents

and wagons very carefully for fear of the country people. I do not

answer for the truth of this. It speaks vast volumes for the cleverness

of gypsies that they can actually make a living by trading horses in New

Spain.

It is very true that in many parts of America the wanderers are welcomed

with _feux de joie_, or with salutes of shot-guns,--the guns,

unfortunately, being shotted and aimed at them. I have mentioned in

another chapter, on a Gypsy Magic Spell, that once in Tennessee, when an

old Romany mother had succeeded in hoaxing a farmer's wife out of all she

had in the world, the neighboring farmers took the witch, and, with a

view to preventing effectually further depredation, caused her to pass

"through flames material and temporal unto flames immaterial and

eternal;" that is to say, they burned her alive. But the gypsy would

much prefer having to deal with lynchers than with lawyers. Like the

hedge-hog, which is typically a gypsy animal, he likes better to be eaten

by those of his own kind than to be crushed into dirt by those who do not

understand him. This story of the hedge-hog was cited from my first

gypsy book by Sir Charles Dilke, in a speech in which he made an

application of it to certain conservatives who remained blindly suffering

by their own party. It will hold good forever. Gypsies never flourished

so in Europe as during the days when every man's hand was against them.

It is said that they raided and plundered about Scotland for fifty years

before they were definitely discovered to be mere marauders, for the

Scots themselves were so much given up to similar pursuits that the

gypsies passed unnoticed.

The American gypsies do not beg, like their English brothers, and

particularly their English sisters. This fact speaks volumes for their

greater prosperity and for the influence which association with a proud

race has on the poorest people. Our friends at Oaklands always welcomed

us as guests. On another occasion when we went there, I said to my

niece, "If we find strangers who do not know us, do not speak at first in

Romany. Let us astonish them." We came to a tent, before which sat a

very dark, old-fashioned gypsy woman. I paused before her, and said in

English,--

"Can you tell a fortune for a young lady?"

"She don't want her fortune told," replied the old woman, suspiciously

and cautiously, or it may be with a view of drawing us on. "No, I can't

tell fortunes."

At this the young lady was so astonished that, without thinking of what

she was saying, or in what language, she cried,--

"_Dordi_! _Can't tute pen dukkerin_?" (Look! Can't you tell fortunes?)

This unaffected outburst had a greater effect than the most deeply

studied theatrical situation could have brought about. The old dame

stared at me and at the lady as if bewildered, and cried,--

"In the name of God, what kind of gypsies are _you_?"

"Oh! _mendui shom bori chovihani_!" cried L., laughing; "we are a great

witch and a wizard, and if you can't tell me my fortune, I'll tell yours.

Hold out your hand, and cross mine with a dollar, and I'll tell you as

big a lie as you ever _penned_ a _galderli Gorgio_ [a green Gentile]."

"Well," exclaimed the gypsy, "I'll believe that you can tell fortunes or

do anything! _Dordi_! _dordi_! but this is wonderful. Yet you're not

the first Romany _rani_ [lady] I ever met. There's one in Delaware: a

_boridiri_ [very great] lady she is, and true Romany,--_flick o the jib

te rinkeni adosta_ [quick of tongue and fair of face]. Well, I am glad

to see you." "Who is that talking there?" cried a man's voice from

within the tent. He had heard Romany, and he spoke it, and came out

expecting to see familiar faces. His own was a study, as his glance

encountered mine. As soon as he understood that I came as a friend, he

gave way to infinite joy, mingled with sincerest grief that he had not at

hand the means of displaying hospitality to such distinguished Romanys as

we evidently were. He bewailed the absence of strong drink. Would we

have some tea made? Would I accompany him to the next tavern, and have

some beer? All at once a happy thought struck him. He went into the

tent and brought out a piece of tobacco, which I was compelled to accept.

Refusal would have been unkind, for it was given from the very heart.

George Borrow tells us that, in Spain, a poor gypsy once brought him a

pomegranate as a first acquaintanceship token. A gypsy is a gypsy

wherever you find him.

These were very nice people. The old dame took a great liking to L., and

showed it in pleasant manners. The couple were both English, and liked

to talk with me of the old country and the many mutual friends whom we

had left behind. On another visit, L. brought a scarlet silk

handkerchief, which she had bound round her head and tied under her chin

in a very gypsy manner. It excited, as I anticipated, great admiration

from the old dame.

"_Ah kenna tute dikks rinkeni_--now you look nice. That's the way a

Romany lady ought to wear it! Don't she look just as Alfi used to look?"

she cried to her husband. "Just such eyes and hair!"

Here L. took off the _diklo_, or handkerchief, and passed it round the

gypsy woman's head, and tied it under her chin, saying,--

"I am sure it becomes you much more than it does me. Now you look

nice:--

"'Red and yellow for Romany,

And blue and pink for the Gorgiee.'"

We rose to depart, the old dame offered back to L. her handkerchief, and,

on being told to keep it, was greatly pleased. I saw that the way in

which it was given had won her heart.

"Did you hear what the old woman said while she was telling your

fortune?" asked L., after we had left the tent.

"Now, I think of it, I remember that she or you had hold of my hand,

while I was talking with the old man, and he was making merry with my

whisky. I was turned away, and around so that I never noticed what you

two were saying."

"She _penned_ your _dukkerin_, and it was wonderful. She said that she

must tell it."

And here L. told me what the old _dye_ had insisted on reading in my

hand. It was simply very remarkable, and embraced an apparent knowledge

of the past, which would make any credulous person believe in her happy

predictions of the future.

"Ah, well," I said, "I suppose the _dukk_ told it to her. She may be an

eye-reader. A hint dropped here and there, unconsciously, the expression

of the face, and a life's practice will make anybody a witch. And if

there ever was a witch's eye, she has it."

"I would like to have her picture," said L., "in that _lullo diklo_ [red

handkerchief]. She looked like all the sorceresses of Thessaly and Egypt

in one, and, as Bulwer says of the Witch of Vesuvius, was all the more

terrible for having been beautiful."

Some time after this we went, with Britannia Lee a-gypsying, not

figuratively, but literally, over the river into New Jersey. And our

first greeting, as we touched the ground, was of good omen, and from a

great man, for it was Walt Whitman. It is not often that even a poet

meets with three sincerer admirers than the venerable bard encountered on

this occasion; so, of course, we stopped and talked, and L. had the

pleasure of being the first to communicate to Bon Gualtier certain

pleasant things which had recently been printed of him by a distinguished

English author, which is always an agreeable task. Blessed upon the

mountains, or at the Camden ferryboat, or anywhere, are the feet of

anybody who bringeth glad tidings.

"Well, are you going to see gypsies?"

"We are. We three gypsies be. By the abattoir. _Au revoir_."

And on we went to the place where I had first found gypsies in America.

All was at first so still that it seemed if no one could be camped in the

spot.

"_Se kekno adoi_." (There's nobody there.)

"_Dordi_!" cried Britannia, "_Dikkava me o tuv te tan te wardo_. [I see

a smoke, a tent, a wagon.] I declare, it is my _puro pal_, my old

friend, W."

And we drew near the tent and greeted its owner, who was equally

astonished and delighted at seeing such distinguished Romany _tani

ranis_, or gypsy young ladies, and brought forth his wife and three

really beautiful children to do the honors. W. was a good specimen of an

American-born gypsy, strong, healthy, clean, and temperate, none the

worse for wear in out-of-dooring, through tropical summers and terrible

winters. Like all American Romanys, he was more straightforward than

most of his race in Europe. All Romanys are polite, but many of the

European kind are most uncomfortably and unconsciously naive. Strange

that the most innocent people should be those who most offend morality.

I knew a lady once--Heaven grant that I may never meet with such

another!--who had been perfectly educated in entire purity of soul. And

I never knew any _devergondee_ who could so shock, shame, and pain decent

people as this Agnes did in her sweet ignorance.

"I shall never forget the first day you came to my camp," said W. to

Britannia. "Ah, you astonished me then. You might have knocked me down

with a feather. And I didn't know what to say. You came in a carriage

with two other ladies. And you jumped out first, and walked up to me,

and cried, '_Sa'shan_!' That stunned me, but I answered, '_Sa'shan_.'

Then I didn't speak Romanes to you, for I didn't know but what you kept

it a secret from the other two ladies, and I didn't wish to betray you.

And when you began to talk it as deep as any old Romany I ever heard, and

pronounced it so rich and beautiful, I thought I'd never heard the like.

I thought you must be a witch."

"_Awer me shom chovihani_" (but I am a witch), cried the lady. "_Mukka

men ja adre o tan_." (Let us go into the tent.) So we entered, and sat

round the fire, and asked news of all the wanderers of the roads, and the

young ladies, having filled their pockets with sweets, produced them for

the children, and we were as much at home as we had ever been in any

salon; for it was a familiar scene to us all, though it would, perhaps,

have been a strange one to the reader, had he by chance, walking that

lonely way in the twilight, looked into the tent and asked his way, and

there found two young ladies--_bien mises_--with their escort, all very

much at their ease, and talking Romany as if they had never known any

other tongue from the cradle.

"What is the charm of all this?" It is that if one has a soul, and does

not live entirely reflected from the little thoughts and little ways of a

thousand other little people, it is well to have at all times in his

heart some strong hold of nature. No matter how much we may be lost in

society, dinners, balls, business, we should never forget that there is

an eternal sky with stars over it all, a vast, mysterious earth with

terrible secrets beneath us, seas, mountains, rivers, and forests away

and around; and that it is from these and what is theirs, and not from

gas-lit, stifling follies, that all strength and true beauty must come.

To this life, odd as he is, the gypsy belongs, and to be sometimes at

home with him by wood and wold takes us for a time from "the world." If

I express myself vaguely and imperfectly, it is only to those who know

not the charm of nature, its ineffable soothing sympathy,--its life, its

love. Gypsies, like children, feel this enchantment as the older grown

do not. To them it is a song without words; would they be happier if the

world brought them to know it as words without song, without music or

melody? I never read a right old English ballad of sumere when the

leaves are grene or the not-broune maid, with its rustling as of sprays

quivering to the song of the wode-wale, without thinking or feeling

deeply how those who wrote them would have been bound to the Romany. It

is ridiculous to say that gypsies are not "educated" to nature and art,

when, in fact, they live it. I sometimes suspect that aesthetic culture

takes more true love of nature out of the soul than it inspires. One

would not say anything of a wild bird or deer being deficient in a sense

of that beauty of which it is a part. There are infinite grades, kinds,

or varieties of feeling of nature, and every man is perfectly satisfied

that his is the true one. For my own part, I am not sure that a rabbit,

in the dewy grass, does not feel the beauty of nature quite as much as

Mr. Ruskin, and much more than I do.

No poet has so far set forth the charm of gypsy life better than Lenau

has done, in his highly-colored, quickly-expressive ballad of "Die drei

Zigeuner," of which I here give a translation into English and another

into Anglo-American Romany.

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