I turned to a second.

"You have more sense, and you do understand. _Adro miro tem penena mande

o baro rai_." (In my country the gypsies call me the great gentleman.)

This phrase may be translated to mean either the "tall gentleman" or the

"great lord." It was apparently taken in the latter sense, for at once

all the party bowed very low, raising their hands to their foreheads, in

Oriental fashion.

"Hallo!" exclaimed my English friend, who had not understood what I had

said. "What game is this you are playing on these fellows?"

Up to the front came a superior, the leader of the band.

"Great God!" he exclaimed, "what is this I hear? This is wonderful. To

think that there should be anybody here to talk with! I can only talk

Magyar and Romanes."

"And what do you talk?" I inquired of the first violin.

"_Ich spreche nur Deutsch_!" he exclaimed, with a strong Vienna accent

and a roar of laughter. "I only talk German."

This worthy man, I found, was as much delighted with my German as the

leader with my gypsy; and in all my experience I never met two beings so

charmed at being able to converse. That I should have met with them was

of itself wonderful. Only there was this difference: that the Viennese

burst into a laugh every time he spoke, while the gypsy grew more sternly

solemn and awfully impressive. There are people to whom mere talking is

a pleasure,--never mind the ideas,--and here I had struck two at once. I

once knew a gentleman named Stewart. He was the mayor, first physician,

and postmaster of St. Paul, Minnesota. While camping out, _en route_,

and in a tent with him, it chanced that among the other gentlemen who had

tented with us there were two terrible snorers. Now Mr. Stewart had

heard that you may stop a man's snoring by whistling. And here was a

wonderful opportunity. "So I waited," he said, "until one man was coming

down with his snore, _diminuendo_, while the other was rising,

_crescendo_, and at the exact point of intersection, _moderato_, I blew

my car-whistle, and so got both birds at one shot. I stopped them both."

Even as Mayor Stewart had winged his two birds with one ball had I hit my

two peregrines.

"We are now going to perform," said the gypsy captain. "Will you not

take seats on the platform, and hear us play?"

I did not know it at the time, but I heard afterwards that this was a

great compliment, and one rarely bestowed. The platform was small, and

we were very near our new friends. Scarcely had the performance begun

ere I perceived that, just as the gypsies in Russia had sung their best

in my honor, these artists were exerting themselves to the utmost, and,

all unheeding the audience, playing directly at me and into me. When any

_tour_ was deftly made the dark master nodded to me with gleaming eyes,

as if saying, "What do you think of _that_, now?" The Viennese laughed

for joy every time his glance met mine, and as I looked at the various

Lajoshes and Joshkas of the band, they blew, beat, or scraped with

redoubled fury, or sank into thrilling tenderness. Hurrah! here was

somebody to play to who knew gypsy and all the games thereof; for a very

little, even a word, reveals a great deal, and I must be a virtuoso, at

least by Romany, if not by art. It was with all the joy of success that

the first piece ended amid thunders of applause.

"That was not the _racoczy_," I said. "Yet it sounded like it."

"No," said the captain. "But _now_ you shall hear the _racoczy_ and the

_czardas_ as you never heard them before. For we can play that better

than any orchestra in Vienna. Truly, you will never forget us after

hearing it."

And then they played the _racoczy_, the national Hungarian favorite, of

gypsy composition, with heart and soul. As these men played for me,

inspired with their own music, feeling and enjoying it far more than the

audience, and all because they had got a gypsy gentleman to play to, I

appreciated what a _life_ that was to them, and what it should be; not

cold-blooded skill, aiming only at excellence or preexcellence and at

setting up the artist, but a fire and a joy, a self-forgetfulness which

whirls the soul away as the soul of the Moenad went with the stream adown

the mountains,--_Evoe Bacchus_! This feeling is deep in the heart of the

Hungarian gypsy; he plays it, he feels it in every air, he knows the rush

of the stream as it bounds onwards,--knows that it expresses his deepest

desire; and so he has given it words in a song which, to him who has the

key, is one of the most touching ever written:--

"Dyal o pani repedishis,

M'ro pirano hegedishis;

"Dyal o pani tale vatra,

M'ro pirano klanetaha.

"Dyal o pani pe kishai

M'ro pirano tsino rai."

"The stream runs on with rushing din

As I hear my true love's violin;

"And the river rolls o'er rock and stone

As he plays the flute so sweet alone.

"Runs o'er the sand as it began,

Then my true love lives a gentleman."

Yes, music whirling the soul away as on a rushing river, the violin notes

falling like ripples, the flute tones all aflow among the rocks; and when

it sweeps _adagio_ on the sandy bed, then the gypsy player is at heart

equal to a lord, then he feels a gentleman. The only true republic is

art. There all earthly distinctions pass away; there he is best who

lives and feels best, and makes others feel, not that he is cleverer than

they, but that he can awaken sympathy and joy.

The intense reality of musical art as a comforter to these gypsies of

Eastern Europe is wonderful. Among certain inedited songs of the

Transylvanian gypsies, in the Kolosvarer dialect, I find the following:--

"Na janav ko dad m'ro as,

Niko mallen mange as,

Miro gule dai merdyas

Pirani me pregelyas.

Uva tu o hegedive

Tu sal mindik pash mange."

"I've known no father since my birth,

I have no friend alive on earth;

My mother's dead this many day,

The girl I loved has gone her way;

Thou violin with music free

Alone art ever true to me."

It is very wonderful that the charm of the Russian gypsy girls' singing

was destroyed by the atmosphere or applause of a Paris concert-room,

while the Hungarian Romanys conquered it as it were by sheer force, and

by conquering gave their music the charm of intensity. I do not deny

that in this music, be it of voice or instruments, there is much which is

perhaps imagined, which depends on association, which is plain to John

but not to Jack; but you have only to advance or retreat a few steps to

find the same in the highest art. This, at least, we know: that no

performer at any concert in London can awake the feeling of intense

enjoyment which these wild minstrels excite in themselves and in others

by sympathy. Now it is a question in many forms as to whether art for

enjoyment is to die, and art for the sake of art alone survive. Is

joyous and healthy nature to vanish step by step from the heart of man,

and morbid, egoistic pessimism to take its place? Are over-culture,

excessive sentiment, constant self-criticism, and all the brood of

nervous curses to monopolize and inspire art? A fine alliance this they

are making, the ascetic monk and the atheistic pessimist, to kill Nature!

They will never effect it. It may die in many forms. It may lose its

charm, as the singing of Sarsha and of Liubasha was lost among the

rustling and noise of thousands of Parisian _badauds_ in the Orangerie.

But there will be stronger forms of art, which will make themselves

heard, as the Hungarian Romanys heeded no din, and bore all away with

their music.

"_Latcho divvus miri pralia_!--_miduvel atch pa tumende_!" (Good-day, my

brothers. God rest on you) I said, and they rose and bowed, and I went

forth into the Exhibition. It was a brave show, that of all the fine

things from all parts of the world which man can make, but to me the most

interesting of all were the men themselves. Will not the managers of the

next world show give us a living ethnological department?

Of these Hungarian gypsies who played in Paris during the Exhibition much

was said in the newspapers, and from the following, which appeared in an

American journal, written by some one to me unknown, the reader may learn

that there were many others to whom their music was deeply thrilling or

wildly exciting:--

"The Hungarian Tziganes (Zigeuner) are the rage just now at Paris.

The story is that Liszt picked out the individuals composing the band

one by one from among the gypsy performers in Hungary and Bohemia.

Half-civilized in appearance, dressed in an unbecoming half-military

costume, they are nothing while playing Strauss' waltzes or their

own; but when they play the Radetsky Defile, the Racoksky March, or

their marvelous czardas, one sees and hears the battle, and it is

easy to understand the influence of their music in fomenting

Hungarian revolutions; why for so long it was made treasonable to

play or listen to these czardas; and why, as they heard them, men

rose to their feet, gathered together, and with tears rolling down

their faces, and throats swelling with emotion, departed to do or

die."

And when I remember that they played for me as they said they had played

for no other man in Paris, "into the ear,"--and when I think of the gleam

in their eyes, I verily believe they _told_ the truth,--I feel glad that

I chanced that morning on those dark men and spoke to them in Romany.

* * * * *

Since the above was written I have met in an entertaining work called

"Unknown Hungary," by Victor Tissot, with certain remarks on the

Hungarian gypsy musicians which are so appropriate that I cite them in

full:--

"The gypsy artists in Hungary play by inspiration, with inimitable

_verve_ and spirit, without even knowing their notes, and nothing

whatever of the rhymes and rules of the masters. Liszt, who has

closely studied them, says, The art of music being for them a sublime

language, a song, mystic in itself, though dear to the initiated,

they use it according to the wants of the moment which they wish to

express. They have invented their music for their own use, to sing

about themselves to themselves, to express themselves in the most

heartfelt and touching monologues.

"Their music is as free as their lives; no intermediate modulation,

no chords, no transition, it goes from one key to another. From

ethereal heights they precipitate you into the howling depths of

hell; from the plaint, barely heard, they pass brusquely to the

warrior's song, which bursts loudly forth, passionate and tender, at

once burning and calm. Their melodies plunge you into a melancholy

reverie, or carry you away into a stormy whirlwind; they are a

faithful expression of the Hungarian character, sometimes quick,

brilliant, and lively, sometimes sad and apathetic.

"The gypsies, when they arrived in Hungary, had no music of their

own; they appropriated the Magyar music, and made from it an original

art which now belongs to them."

I here break in upon Messieurs Tissot and Liszt to remark that, while it

is very probable that the Roms reformed Hungarian music, it is rather

boldly assumed that they had no music of their own. It was, among other

callings, as dancers and musicians that they left India and entered

Europe, and among them were doubtless many descendants of the ten

thousand Indo-Persian Luris or Nuris. But to resume quotation:--

"They made from it an art full of life, passion, laughter, and tears.

The instrument which the gypsies prefer is the violin, which they

call _bas' alja_, 'the king of instruments.' They also play the

viola, the cymbal, and the clarionet.

"There was a pause. The gypsies, who had perceived at a table a

comfortable-looking man, evidently wealthy, and on a pleasure

excursion in the town, came down from their platform, and ranged

themselves round him to give him a serenade all to himself, as is

their custom. They call this 'playing into the ear.'

"They first asked the gentleman his favorite air, and then played it

with such spirit and enthusiasm and overflowing richness of variation

and ornament, and with so much emotion, that it drew forth the

applause of the whole company. After this they executed a czardas,

one of the wildest, most feverish, harshest, and, one may say,

tormenting, as if to pour intoxication into the soul of their

listener. They watched his countenance to note the impression

produced by the passionate rhythm of their instruments; then,

breaking off suddenly, they played a hushed, soft, caressing measure;

and again, almost breaking the trembling cords of their bows, they

produced such an intensity of effect that the listener was almost

beside himself with delight and astonishment. He sat as if

bewitched; he shut his eyes, hung his head in melancholy, or raised

it with a start, as the music varied; then jumped up and struck the

back of his head with his hands. He positively laughed and cried at

once; then, drawing a roll of bank-notes from his pocket-book, he

threw it to the gypsies, and fell back in his chair, as if exhausted

with so much enjoyment. And in _this_ lies the triumph of the gypsy

music; it is like that of Orpheus, which moved the rocks and trees.

The soul of the Hungarian plunges, with a refinement of sensation

that we can understand, but cannot follow, into this music, which,

like the unrestrained indulgence of the imagination in fantasy and

caprice, gives to the initiated all the intoxicating sensations

experienced by opium smokers."

The Austrian gypsies have many songs which perfectly reflect their

character. Most of them are only single verses of a few lines, such as

are sung everywhere in Spain; others, which are longer, seem to have

grown from the connection of these verses. The following translation

from the Roumanian Romany (Vassile Alexandri) gives an idea of their

style and spirit:--

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