On leaving New Orleans we run through swamps, and presently skirt the
Gulf of Mexico and travel on. The next day (December 23rd), we feel it
perceptibly colder, for we are going north. The country is cultivated in
sugar, cotton, rice, grass, etc. We breakfast at Atlanta, and after
leaving that place, the scenery puts me more in mind of England. In
going through Georgia, I was told that the same black families which now
occupy many of the small wooden houses, or "cabins," which I see, are
the same families who occupied them before the abolition of slavery.
Although many slaves suffered cruelties through enforced separations and
hard treatment, yet very many had most comfortable homes, considerate
masters, and light work. I sat much during this day on the platform at
the end of the end car, observing the country. At one station some
little black urchins came to gaze, and I said to one boy, apparently
seven years old, "What is your name?" He said, "Willie Matthews." I
said, "How old are you? " He said, "I ain't old enough to know how old I
are." And his genuine simplicity delighted me.
We are now passing through cultivated lands, farms, and estates, and
these continue right on to New York. At Greers was a very large
collection of cotton. At Spartanville are large cotton mills, such as
one sees in Lancashire. The next day (December 24th), we notice ice on
the ponds. We cross the Potomac River, and near Washington, sight the
Capitol--or, as we should say in England, the Houses of Parliament.
Washington City is the political capital of the United States. Its size
is about 4-1/2 miles by 2-1/2 miles. The Capitol is described by the
Americans as the most magnificent public edifice in the world. It is 352
feet long and 121 feet deep, with two wings each 238 by 140 feet. Its
entire length is 751 feet 4 inches, and it covers an area of more than
3-1/2 acres. It is of costly construction, and stands in grounds of
about 50 acres.
We proceed, and stop at Baltimore, cross the Bush and Gunpowder Rivers,
again come near the Susquehanna and Delaware Rivers, various smaller
rivers, and run on until we reach New York. On arrival, I immediately
went to the Cunard office and secured my berth in the "Servia." The next
morning (Christmas Day), it was very cold, and snowing. I had a fire lit
in my bed-room, and there wrote the article which appeared in the
January _Land Roll_. In the afternoon I walked in the Central Park, but
it was so bitterly cold, I was satisfied with less than two hours of
exercise, and returned to the hotel to dinner, and finished up the day
writing in my bed-room till midnight. The Central Park, in genial
weather, would be an attractive resort. I observed large natural rocks,
lawns, wide promenades, seats, lakes, menageries, swings, and various
such like attractions for juveniles, overground and underground roads--a
kind of "Rotten Row," &c., but being so cold scarcely a person was to be
seen.
On December 26th, New York was deep in snow. I visited a few shops for
some necessaries, and went on board the "Servia" during the afternoon,
thinking that I might have difficulty in getting a cabman to drive to
the docks after dark if the snow drifted deeply. New York City is the
metropolis of the United States. In 1880 its population was 1,206,590.
Its site was discovered in 1524. It was in 1609 that Hudson, an
Englishman, ascended the river which was named after him. In 1614 some
Dutchmen settled there. In 1648 its population was 1,000, and in 1700 it
had increased to 6,000. In 1684 it was captured by the Duke of York, and
was henceforth called "New York." In 1711 a slave market was established
in Wall Street.
On December 27th, about 5 o'clock in the morning, we began to clear out
of the dock, and in a few hours were again on the broad Atlantic. The
next day (Sunday, December 28th), we had service on board, conducted by
the doctor in the saloon: all on board not actually on duty may attend.
We left New York in a blizzard, and our decks were coated with frost and
snow, but after two days this was all cleared away, and we had a
splendid run in genial weather, so that one day I could comfortably walk
on deck without a greatcoat.
Our run was--from Sandy Hook Lighthouse (45 miles) to noon of December
28th, 373 miles; noon of December 29th, 379 miles; December 30th, 375
miles; December 31st, 878 miles; January 1st, 1891, 372 miles; January
2nd, 362 miles; January 3rd, 371 miles; thence, to Queenstown, 169
miles; and from Queenstown to Liverpool, 240 miles; making a total of
3,064 miles. The passage in the "Etruria," going out, was 3,062 miles.
The "Servia" is a fine ship, but much older than the "Etruria," and her
engines, consequently, are not capable of the speed of a newer vessel.
Her cargo capacity is 6,500 tons, with 1,800 tons of coal and 1,000 tons
of water ballast. Her horse-power is equal to 10,500. The saloon is 74
by 49 feet, and is capable of seating 350 persons. The "Servia" has
cabin accommodation for 500 saloon and 600 steerage passengers, besides
a crew of 200 officers and men. When there are more than 350 saloon
passengers, each meal has to be served in two relays.
An interesting incident occurred during the passage: I discovered that
our captain (now commanding the "Aurania") was a shipmate of mine in
1855, when I was a midshipman. I reached my office in Lincoln's Inn
Fields at 8 o'clock on the morning of January 5th, having been absent
just about six weeks. The distances were as follows:--
Liverpool to New York 3,062 miles.
New York to Chicago 913 "
Chicago to Council Bluffs 488 "
Council Bluffs to San Francisco 1,867 "
San Francisco to Merced 152 "
Merced to New Orleans 2,344 "
New Orleans to Washington 1,144 "
Washington to New York 228 "
New York to Liverpool 3,064 "
London to Liverpool 201 "
Liverpool to London 201 "
Journeys in buggies, tram-cars, &c. 110 "
--------
13,774 "