CHAPTER LXIII.

EASTERN STEPPE.

The main attempt to colonize any portion of the Eastern Steppe with

Christians was the planting of a line of Kozak camps in the countries

lying between the Volga and the Don--a region in which the soil is

less parched, the sand less deep, the herbage less scanty, than

elsewhere in these sterile plains. But even in this favored region the

fight for life is so hard and constant, that these Kozak colonists

hail with joy the bugles that call them to arm and mount for a distant

raid.

A wide and windy plain, sooty in color, level to the sight, with thin

brown moss, and withered weeds; a herd of half-wild horses here and

there; a Kalmuk rider dashing through a cloud of dust; a stray camel;

a wagon drawn by oxen, ploughing heavily in the mud and marl; a

hollow, dark and amber, in which lies a gypsy village; caravans of

carts carrying hay and melons; a flock of sheep, watched by a Kozak

lad attired in a fur cap, a skin capote, and enormous boots; a

windmill on a lonely ridge; a mighty arch of sky overhead, shot with

long lines of green and crimson light--such is an evening picture of

the Eastern Steppe.

Time out of mind two hostile forces have been flowing from the deserts

of Central Asia through this Eastern Steppe towards the fertile

districts watered by the Don. These forces are the Turkish and

Mongolian tribes. A cloud hangs over the earlier movements of these

tribes; but when the invaders come under European ken, they are seen

to be divided by differences of type and creed. The Turkish races rank

among the handsomest on earth, the Mongolian races rank among the

ugliest on earth. The Turkish tribes are children of Mohammed, the

Mongolian tribes are children of Buddha. The first are a settled

people, living in towns, and tilling the soil; the second a nomadic

people, dwelling in tents, and roving from plain to plain with their

flocks and herds.

The Moslem hordes which crossed the Ural River settled on the steppe,

built cities on the Volga and the Donets, pushed their conquests up to

the gates of Kief. The Buddhistic hordes which fought under Batu Khan

destroyed this earlier work; but when they settled on the steppe, and

married Moslem women, many of these heirs of Batu Khan embraced the

religion of their wives, and helped the True Believers to erect such

cities in their rear as Khiva, Bokhara, Samarcand, and Balkh, which

afterwards became the strongholds of their faith. Yet most of the

Mongol princes held by their ancient creed, and all the new-comers

from their country added to their strength on this Eastern Steppe.

These Turks and Mongols, enemies in Asia, kept up their feuds in

Europe; and the early Moslem settlers in these plains were sorely

pressed by their Buddhistic rulers, until the arrival of Timour Beg

restored the Crescent to its old supremacy on the Eastern Steppe.

This feud between Buddha and Mohammed led in these countries to the

final triumphs of the Cross.

The plains on which they fought for twenty generations are even now

tented and cropped by Asiatic tribes--Kalmuks, Kirghiz, Nogays,

Gypsies. The Kalmuks are Buddhists, the Kirghiz and Nogays are Moslem,

the Gypsies are simply Gypsies.

The Kalmuks, a pastoral and warlike people, never yet confined in

houses, are the true proprietors of the steppe. But they have given it

up, at least in part; for in the reign of Empress Catharine, five

hundred thousand wanderers crossed the Ural River, never to come back.

The Kirghiz, Turkomans, and Nogays came in and occupied their lands.

The Kalmuks who remain in the country live in corrals (temporary

camps), formed by raising a number of lodges near each other, round

the tent of their high-priest. A Kalmuk lodge is a frame of poles set

up in the form of a ring, tented at the top, and hung with coarse

brown cloth. Inside, the ground is covered with skins and furs, on

which the inmates lounge and sleep. Ten, twenty, fifty persons of all

ages live under a common roof. A savage is not afraid of crowding;

least of all when he lies down at night. Crowds comfort him and keep

him warm. A flock of sheep, a string of camels, and a herd of horses,

browse around the corral; for horses, sheep, and camels are the only

wealth of tribes who plant no tree, who build no house, who sow no

field. Flat in feature, bronze in color, bony in frame, the Kalmuk is

one of the ugliest types of living men, though he is said to produce,

by mixture with the more flexible and feminine Hindoo, the splendid

face and figure of the Circassian chief.

The Kalmuk, as a Buddhist, keeping to his ancient Mongol traditions,

and worshipping the Dalai-Lama, eats bull beef but slightly cooked,

and drinks mare's milk in his favorite forms of kumis and spirit; the

first being milk fermented only, the second milk fermented and

distilled. Like all his race, he will steal a cow, a camel, or a

horse, from either friend or foe, whenever he finds his chance. He

owes no allegiance, he knows no law. Some formal acts of obedience are

expected from him; such as paying his taxes, and supplying his tale of

men for the ranks; but these payments and supplies are nominal only,

save in districts where the rover has settled down under Kozak rule.

These wild men come and go as they list, roving with their sheep and

camels from the wall of China to the countries watered by the Don.

They come in hordes, and go in armies. In the reign of Michael

Romanoff fifty thousand Kalmuks poured along the Eastern Steppe; and

these unwelcome guests were afterwards strengthened by a second horde

of ten thousand tents. These Kalmuks treated with Peter the Great as

an independent power, and for several generations they paid no tribute

to the crown except by furnishing cavalry in time of war. Another

horde of ten thousand tents arrived. Their prince, Ubasha, led an army

of thirty thousand horsemen towards the Danube against the Turks, whom

they hated as only Asiatics hate hereditary foes. Yet, on the Empress

Catharine trying to place the hordes under rule and law, the same

Ubasha led his tribes--five hundred thousand souls, with countless

herds of cattle, camels, and horses--back from the Eastern Steppe

across the Ural River into Asia; stripping whole provinces of their

wealth, producing famine in the towns, and robbing the empire of her

most powerful arm. Hurt in his pride by some light word from the

imperial lips, the prince proposed to carry off all his people,

leaving not a soul behind; but fifteen thousand tents were left,

because the winter came down late, and the Volga ice was thin. The

children of these laggers are the men you meet on the plains, surprise

at their religious rites, and sup with in their homely tents. Steps

have been often taken to reclaim and fix these rovers, but with little

or no effect. Some families have joined the Kozaks, come under law,

and even embraced the cross; but the vast majority cling to their wild

life, their Asiatic dress, and their Buddhistic creed.

The upper classes are called White (literally, white bones), the lower

classes Black, just as in Asiatic fashion the Russian nobles are

called White, while the peasants are called Black.

The Kirghiz are of Turkish origin, and speak the Uzbek idiom of their

race. Divided into three branches, called the Great Horde, the Middle

Horde, and the Little Horde, they roam over, if they do not own, the

steppes and deserts lying between the Volga and Lake Balkash. Much of

this tract is sandy waste, with dots of herbage here and there, and

most of it lies beyond the Russian lines. Within these lines some

order may be kept; beyond them, in what is called the Independent

Steppe, the Kirghiz devilry finds an open field. These children of the

desert plunder friend and foe, not only lifting cattle and robbing

caravans, but stealing men and women to sell as slaves. All through

these deserts, from Fort Aralsk to Daman-i-koh, the slave-trade is in

vogue; the Kirghiz bandits keeping the markets of Khiva and Bokhara

well supplied with boys and girls for sale. Nor is the traffic likely

to decline until the flag of some civilized people floats from the

Tower of Timour Beg. Fired by hereditary hate, these Kirghiz bandits

look on every man of Mongolian birth and Buddhistic faith as lawful

spoil. They follow him to his pastures, plunder his tent, drive off

his herds, and sell him as a slave. But when this lawful prey escapes

their hands they raid and rob on more friendly soil; and many of the

captives whom they carry to Khiva and Bokhara come from the Persian

valleys of Atrek and Meshid. Girls from these valleys fetch a higher

price, and Persia has not strength enough to protect her children from

their raids.

When Ubasha fled from the Volga with his Kalmuk hosts, these Kirghiz

had a year of sweet revenge. They lay in wait for their retiring foes;

they broke upon their camps by night; they stole their horses; they

devoured their food; they carried off their women. Hanging on the

flank and rear of this moving mass, they cut off stragglers, stopped

communications, hid the wells; inflicting far more miseries on the

Kalmuks than these rovers suffered from all the generals sent against

them by the crown.

These Kalmuks gone, the Kirghiz crossed the borders and appeared on

the Volga, where they have been well received. Their khan is rich and

powerful, and in coming in contact with Europe he has learned to value

science; but the attempts which have been made to settle some portions

of his tribe at Ryn Peski have met with no success. The Emperor has

built a house for the khan, but the khan himself, preferring to live

out-of-doors, has pitched his tent on the lawn! A Bedouin of the

desert is not more untamable than a Kirghiz of the steppe.

The Nogays are Mongolians of a separate horde. Coming into the country

with Jani Beg, they spread themselves through the southern plains,

took wives of the people, and embraced the Mussulman faith. At first

they were a nomadic soldiery, living in camps; and even after the war

had died out, they kept to their wagons, and roamed through the

country as the seasons came and went. "We live on wheels," they used

to say: "one man has a house on the ground, another man has a house on

wheels. It is the will of God." Yet, in the course of five hundred

years, these Nogays have in some measure changed their habits of life,

though they have not changed their creed. Many of them are settlers on

the land, which they farm in a rough style; growing millet, grapes,

and melons for their daily food. Being strict Mohammedans, they drink

no wine, and marry two or three wives apiece. All wives are bought

with money; and divorce, though easy to obtain, is seldom tried. The

men are proud of their descent and their religion, and the crown

allows their cadis and mollahs to settle most of their disputes. They

pay a tax, but they are not enrolled for war.

These Mongolians occupy the Russian Steppe between the Molochnaya

River and the Sea of Azof.

The Gypsies, here called Tsiganie, live a nomadic life in the Eastern

Steppe, as in other countries, sleeping in wretched tents of coarse

brown cloth, and grovelling like dogs and swine in the mire. They own

a few carts, and ponies to match the carts, in which they carry their

wives and little folk from fair to fair, stealing poultry, telling

fortunes, shoeing horses, and existing only from hand to mouth. They

will not labor--they will not learn. Some Gypsies show a talent for

music, and many of their girls have a beauty of person which is highly

prized. A few become public singers; and a splendid specimen of her

race may marry--like the present Princess Sergie Golitsin of

Moscow--into the highest rank; but as a race they live apart, in true

Asiatic style; reiving and prowling on their neighbors' farms, begging

at one house, thieving at the next; a class of outlaws, objects of

fear to many, and of disgust to all. In summer they lodge on the

grass, in winter they burrow in the ground; taking no more thought of

the heat and dew than of the frost and snow. In color they are almost

bronze, with big fierce eyes and famished looks, as though they were

the embodied life of the dirt in which they wallow by day and dream by

night. Some efforts have been made by Government to civilize these

mysterious tribes, but hitherto without results; and the marauders are

only to be kept in check on the Eastern Steppe by occasional onsets of

Kozak horse.

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