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THE EVOLUTION OF AN ENGLISH TOWN
Being the story of the ancient town of PICKERING in Yorkshire from
Prehistoric times up to the year of our Lord Nineteen Hundred & 5
BY GORDON HOME
TO ALL THOSE WHO HAVE GIVEN THEIR GENEROUS HELP IN THE COMPILATION OF THIS
BOOK
PREFACE
The original suggestion that I should undertake this task came from the
Vicar of Pickering, and it is due to his co-operation and to the great
help received from Dr John L. Kirk that this history has attained its
present form. But beyond this I have had most valuable assistance from so
many people in Pickering and the villages round about, that to mention
them all would almost entail reprinting the local directory. I would
therefore ask all those people who so kindly put themselves to great
trouble and who gave up much time in order to help me, to consider that
they have contributed very materially towards the compilation of this
record.
Beyond those who live in the neighbourhood of Pickering, I am particularly
indebted to Mr Richard Blakeborough for his kind help and the use of his
invaluable collection of Yorkshire folklore. Mr Blakeborough was keen on
collecting the old stories of hobs, wraithes and witches just long enough
ago to be able to tap the memories of many old people who are no longer
with us, and thus his collection is now of great value. Nearly all the
folklore stories I am able to give, are those saved from oblivion in this
way.
I have also had much help from Mr J. Romilly Allen and from Mr T.M. Fallow
of Coatham, who very generously gave his aid in deciphering some of the
older records of Pickering.
To Professor Percy F. Kendall who so kindly gave me permission to
reproduce his map showing the Vale of Pickering during the Glacial Epoch,
as well as other valuable help, I am also greatly indebted; and I have to
thank Professor W. Boyd Dawkins for his kindness in reading some of the
proofs, and for giving valuable suggestions.
GORDON HOME.
EPSOM, _May 1905_.
CONTENTS
PREFACE.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.
INTRODUCTION
CHAPTER I
CONCERNING THOSE WHICH FOLLOW
CHAPTER II
THE FOREST AND VALE OF PICKERING IN PALÆOLITHIC AND PRE-GLACIAL TIMES
CHAPTER III
THE VALE OF PICKERING IN THE LESSER ICE AGE
CHAPTER IV
THE EARLY INHABITANTS OF THE FOREST AND VALE OF PICKERING
CHAPTER V
HOW THE ROMAN OCCUPATION OF BRITAIN AFFECTED THE FOREST AND VALE OF
PICKERING, B.C. 55 TO A.D. 418
CHAPTER VI
THE FOREST AND VALE IN SAXON TIMES, A.D. 418 TO 1066
CHAPTER VII
THE FOREST AND VALE IN NORMAN TIMES, A.D. 1066 TO 1154
CHAPTER VIII
THE FOREST AND VALE IN THE TIME OF THE PLANTAGENETS, A.D. 1154 TO 1485
CHAPTER IX
THE FOREST AND VALE IN TUDOR TIMES, A.D. 1485 TO 1603
CHAPTER X
THE FOREST AND VALE IN STUART TIMES, A.D. 1603 TO 1714
CHAPTER XI
THE FOREST AND VALE IN GEORGIAN TIMES, A.D. 1714 TO 1837
CHAPTER XII
THE FOREST AND VALE FROM EARLY VICTORIAN TIMES UP TO THE PRESENT DAY, A.D.
1837 TO 1905
CHAPTER XIII
Concerning the Villages and Scenery of the Forest and Vale of Pickering
CHAPTER XIV
Concerning the Zoology of the Forest and Vale
* * * * *
Books of Reference
List of the Vicars of Pickering
Index
THE PURPOSE OF THE FOOTNOTES
Having always considered footnotes an objectionable feature, I have
resorted to them solely for reference purposes. Therefore, the reader who
does not wish to look up my authorities need not take the slightest notice
of the references to the footnotes, which in no case contain additional
facts, but merely indications of the sources of information.
LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS
Pickering Church from Hall Garth (_Coloured_)
Pickering From The North-West
Rosamund Tower, Pickering Castle
Kirkdale Cave
Hyænas' Jaws
Elephants' Teeth
Bear's Tusk
Pickering Lake in Ice Age
Newtondale in Ice Age
Pickering Lake, Eastern End
Scamridge Dykes
Pre-Historic Weapons
Leaf-shaped Arrow Head
Lake Dwellings Relics
Remains of Pre-Historic Animals from Lake Dwellings
Skeleton of Bronze Age
A Quern
Urns in Pickering Museum
Sketch Map of Roman Road and Camps
The Tower of Middleton Church
Ancient Font and Crosses
Saxon Sundial at Kirkdale
Saxon Sundial at Edstone
Pre-Norman Remains near Pickering
Saxon Stones at Kirkdale
Saxon Stones at Sinnington
South Side of the Nave of Pickering Church
Norman Doorway at Salton
Norman Work at Ellerburne
The Crypt at Lastingham
Norman Font at Edstone
Wall Paintings in Pickering Church
The Devil's Tower, Pickering Castle
Wall Painting of St Christopher
Wall Painting of St Edmund and Acts of Mercy
Wall Painting of Herod's Feast and Martyrdom of St Thomas À Becket
Effigy of Sir William Bruce
Effigies in Bruce Chapel
Holy Water Stoup in Pickering Church
Sanctus Bell
Cattle Marks
Section of Fork Cottage
Details of Fork Cottage
Pickering Castle from the Keep
Pre-Reformation Chalice
Font at Pickering Church
Alms Box at Pickering Church
House in which Duke of Buckingham Died
Maypole on Sinnington Green
Inverted Stone Coffin at Wykeham
Magic Cubes
Newtondale, showing the Coach Railway
Relics of Witchcraft
A Love Garter
Horn of the Sinnington Hunt
Interior of the Oldest Type of Cottage
Ingle-Nook at Gallow Hill Farm
Autographs of Wordsworth and Mary Hutchinson
Riding t' Fair
Halbert and Spetum
Old Key of Castle
Pickering Shambles
The Old Pickering Fire-Engine
Market Cross at Thornton-le-Dale
Lockton Village
The Black Hole of Thornton-le-Dale
Hutton Buscel Church
Sketch Map of the Pickering District
INTRODUCTION
Every preface in olden time was wont to begin with the address "Lectori
Benevolo"--the indulgence of the reader being thereby invoked and, it was
hoped, assured. In that the writer of this at least would have his share,
even though neither subject, nor author, that he introduces, may stand in
need of such a shield.
Local histories are yearly becoming more numerous. In few places is there
more justification for one than here.
I. The beauty of the scenery is not well known. This book should do
something to vindicate its character. There is no need on this point to go
back to the time of George III.'s conversation at the levée with Mrs
Pickering's grandfather. "I suppose you are going back to Yorkshire, Mr
Stanhope? A very ugly country, Yorkshire." This was too much for my
grandfather--(the story is told in her own words)--"We always consider
Yorkshire a very picturesque country." "What, what, what," said the King,
"a coalpit a picturesque object! what, what, what, Yorkshire coalpits
picturesque! Yorkshire a picturesque country!"[1] Only within the last few
months one of us had a letter refusing to consider a vacant post: the
reason given being that this was a colliery district. There is no pit to
be found for miles. Many can, and do, walk, cycle, or motor through the
Vale. Others, who are unable to come and see for themselves, will, with
the help of Mr Home, be in a better position to appreciate at its true
worth the charm of the haughs and the changing views of the distant Wolds,
and of the russet brown or purple expanse of the upland moors.
[Footnote 1: "Memoirs of Anna M.W. Pickering."]
II. The stranger on a visit, no less the historian or antiquary, has till
now often been puzzled for a clue, and ignorant where to turn for
authentic data, would he attempt to weave for himself a connected idea of
the incidents of the past and their bearing on the present. There has been
no lack of material buried in ancient records, or preserved in the common
oral traditions of the folk: but hitherto no coherent account that has
been published. Speaking for ourselves, we are glad the task of dealing
with the "raffled hank" of timeworn customs and obscure traditions as well
as the more easily ascertained facts of history is falling to the author's
practised pen. For the future, at any rate, there should be less
difficulty in understanding the manner of life and method of rule with
which past and present generations belonging to the Town of Pickering have
been content to dwell.
III. "Foreigners"[1] are sometimes at a loss to understand the peculiar
spirit of those who in York, for instance, are known as "Moor-enders."
This spirit shows itself in different ways; but perhaps in nothing so much
as the intense attachment of the townsmen to their birthplace. This local
patriotism is no whit behind that to be found in Spain--"seldom indeed a
Spaniard says he is a Spaniard, but speaks of himself as being from
Seville, Cadiz, or some forgotten town in La Mancha, of which he speaks
with pride, referring to it as 'mi tierra.'"[2] Our readers will learn
there is some reason for this attachment; and may, like some of us, who
tho' born elsewhere claim adoption as citizens, fall under the witchery of
its spell.
[Footnote 1: C.R.L. Fletcher in his "History of England" tells us that
townsmen of the thirteenth century were wont to brand their brethren in
all the neighbouring towns as "foreigners." Those we call foreigners, they
called aliens. The expression itself was made use of not long ago at a
meeting of the Urban Council.]
[Footnote 2: R.B. Cunninghame Graham, "Hernando de Soto."]
May the venture to compass these ends succeed, to use an old saying, "ez
sartin ez t' thorn-bush."[1]
[Footnote 1: It used to be the custom for the parson to collect the tithe
by placing a branch of thorn in every tenth stook; he choosing the stooks
and sending his cart along for them. R. Blakeborough, "Yorkshire Humour
and Customs."]
E.W.D.
The Vicarage, Pickering.
_25th September_ 1904.
THE EVOLUTION
OF AN
ENGLISH TOWN
CHAPTER I
_Concerning those which follow_
"Brother," quod he, "where is now youre dwellyng,
Another day if that I sholde you seche?"
This yeman hym answerde, in softe speche:
"Brother," quod he, "fer in the north contree,
Where as I hope som tyme I shal thee see."
_The Friar's Tale. Chaucer._
In the North Riding of Yorkshire, there is a town of such antiquity that
its beginnings are lost far away in the mists of those times of which no
written records exist. What this town was originally called, it is
impossible to say, but since the days of William the Norman (a pleasanter
sounding name than "the Conqueror,") it has been consistently known as
Pickering, although there has always been a tendency to spell the name
with y's and to abandon the c, thus producing the curious-looking result
of _Pykeryng_; its sound, however was the same.
In his Chronicles, John Stow states on the authority of "divers writers"
that Pickering was built in the year 270 B.C., but I am inclined to think
that the earliest settlements on the site or in the neighbourhood of the
present town must have been originated at an infinitely earlier period.
But despite its undisputed antiquity there are many even in Yorkshire who
have never heard of the town, and in the south of England it is difficult
to find anyone who is aware that such a place exists. At Rennes during the
great military trial there was a Frenchman who asked "Who is Dreyfus?" and
we were surprised at such ignorance of a name that had been on the lips of
all France for years, but yet we discover ourselves to be astonishingly
lacking in the knowledge of our own little island and find ourselves
asking "why should anyone trouble to write a book about a town of which so
few have even heard?" But it is often in the out-of-the-way places that
historical treasures are preserved, and it is mainly for this reason and
the fact that the successive periods of growth are so well demonstrated
there, that the ancient town of Pickering has been selected to illustrate
the evolution of an English town.
I have endeavoured to produce a complete series of pictures commencing
with the Ice Age and finishing at the dawn of the twentieth century. In
the earlier chapters only a rough outline is possible, but as we come down
the centuries and the records become more numerous and varied, fuller
details can be added to the pictures of each age, and we may witness how
much or how little the great series of dynastic, constitutional, religious
and social changes effected a district that is typical of many others in
the remoter parts of England.
[Illustration: Pickering from the North-West.]
Built on sloping ground that rises gently from the rich, level pastures of
the Vale of Pickering, the town has a picturesque and pleasant site. At
the top of the market-place where the ground becomes much steeper stands
the church, its grey bulk dominating every view. From all over the Vale
one can see the tall spire, and from due east or west it has a surprising
way of peeping over the hill tops. It has even been suggested that the
tower and spire have been a landmark for a very long time, owing to the
fact that where the hills and formation of the ground do not obstruct the
view, or make road-making difficult, the roads make straight for the
spire.
With few exceptions the walls of the houses are of the same weather-beaten
limestone as the church and the castle, but seen from above the whole town
is transformed into a blaze of red, the curved tiles of the locality
retaining their brilliant hue for an indefinite period. Only a very few
thatched roofs remain to-day, but the older folks remember when most of
the houses were covered in that picturesque fashion.
Pickering has thus lost its original uniform greyness, relieved here and
there by whitewash, and presents strong contrasts of colour against the
green meadows and the masses of trees that crown the hill where the castle
stands. The ruins, now battered and ivy-mantled, are dignified and
picturesque and still sufficiently complete to convey a clear impression
of the former character of the fortress, three of the towers at angles of
the outer walls having still an imposing aspect. The grassy mounds and
shattered walls of the interior would, however, be scarcely recognisable
to the shade of Richard II. if he were ever to visit the scene of his
imprisonment.
Since the time of Henry VIII. when Leland described the castle, whole
towers and all the interior buildings except the chapel have disappeared.
The chief disasters probably happened before the Civil War, although we
are told, by one or two eighteenth century writers, as an instance of the
destruction that was wrought, that after the Parliamentary forces had
occupied the place and "breached the walls," great quantities of papers
and parchments were scattered about Castle-gate, the children being
attracted to pick them up, many of them bearing gilt letters. During the
century which has just closed, more damage was done to the buildings and
in a short time all the wooden floors in the towers completely
disappeared.
Stories are told of the Parliamentary troops being quartered in Pickering
church, and, if this were true, we have every reason to bless the coats of
whitewash which probably hid the wall-paintings from their view. The
series of fifteenth century pictures that now cover both walls of the nave
would have proved so very distasteful to the puritan soldiery that it is
impossible to believe that they could have tolerated their existence,
especially when we find it recorded that the font was smashed and the
large prayer-book torn to pieces at that time.
[Illustration: Rosamund Tower, Pickering Castle.]
Pickering church has a fascination for the antiquary, and does not fail to
impress even the most casual person who wanders into the churchyard and
enters the spacious porch. The solemn massiveness of the Norman nave, the
unusual effect of the coloured paintings above the arches, and the carved
stone effigies of knights whose names are almost forgotten, carry one away
from the familiar impressions of a present-day Yorkshire town, and almost
suggest that one is living in mediæval times. One can wander, too, on the
moors a few miles to the north and see heather stretching away to the most
distant horizon and feel that there, also, are scenes which have been
identically the same for many centuries. The men of the Neolithic and
Bronze Ages may have swept their eyes over landscapes so similar that they
would find the moorlands quite as they knew them, although they would miss
the dense forests of the valleys and the lower levels.
The cottages in the villages are, many of them, of great age, and most of
them have been the silent witnesses of innumerable superstitious rites and
customs. When one thoroughly realises the degrading character of the
beliefs that so powerfully swayed the lives of the villagers and
moorland-folk of this district, as late as the first twenty years of the
nineteenth century, one can only rejoice that influences arose
sufficiently powerful to destroy them. Along with the revolting practises,
however, it is extremely unfortunate to have to record the disappearance
of many picturesque, and in themselves, entirely harmless customs. The
roots of the great mass of superstitions have their beginnings so far away
from the present time, that to embrace them all necessitates an
exploration of all the centuries that lie between us and the pre-historic
ages, and in the pages that follow, some of these connections with the
past may be discovered.