things, to be determined by the purpose and circumstances of the
tourist. One may make a geological and mineralogical tour, inspecting
the mountains and the mines of Spain, and find his hands tolerably full
at that; or, one may wend his way to the Peninsula solely to study the
achievements of the former national schools of painting there, in which
case Sevilla and the picture-gallery at Madrid will be his only
objective points--the latter chief and almost inexhaustible. The
architectural treasures of Spain constitute another source of interest
sufficient in itself for a whole journey and months of study. But those
who go with aims of this sort will find all the advice they need in
guides and special works. What will more probably be sought here is
merely an outline for the wanderer who sets out to obtain general views
and impressions in a brief space of time. Him, then, I advise, if the
season be propitious, to enter Spain from the north, pursue in the main
a straight line to the southern extremity; and then, having made the
excursion to Granada--which in the present state of the railways must be
a digression from the general circuit--proceed along the shores of the
Mediterranean toward France again. In this case his trip will arrange
itself in the following order:
DAYS
Paris to San Sebastian 2
Thence to Pamplona. Back to main line.
Burgos 3
Valladolid 1
Thence to Salamanca 2
Back to main line. Avila 1
Escorial, and drive to Segovia 2
Madrid 8
Or, from Avila go direct to Madrid, and
then to Escorial, Segovia, and return.
Alcalá de Henáres (birthplace of Cervantes)
may be reached by a short railtrip from
Madrid eastward 1
Aranjuez 1
Toledo 2
Cordova 2
Sevilla 5
Cadiz 2
Gibraltar (by steamer) 2
Malaga 1
Ronda (by rail and diligence) 2
Granada 4
Return to Malaga 1
Cartagena (steamer) 2
Murcia (rail) 1
Elche palmgroves (diligence) 1
Alicante (diligence) 1
Or, diligence and rail direct to Valencia 1
Valencia (drive in the Huerta) 2
Zaragoza 2
Manresa, and monastery of Monserrat 3
Barcelona 3
Gerona 1
To Marseilles 1
--
60
The preceding estimate includes the time to be allowed for going from
place to place; but, as will be seen, the total includes some extra days
occurring in the count where an option is suggested. To accomplish all
that is laid down here in two months, however, would be very close and
hard work; in order to go over the ground comfortably, an extra week or
two should be allowed. The great advantage of entering the kingdom by
way of San Sebastian is that the first impression of the Pyrenees is
much finer there than by way of Perpignan to Gerona and Barcelona. One
also plunges immediately into the heart of ancient Spain on touching
Pamplona and Burgos; and these lead in the most natural and direct way
to Valladolid (the old capital and the place where "Don Quixote" was
written), to Salamanca, Avila, Segovia, and the Escorial. Furthermore,
after Madrid has intervened between North and South with its mingling of
past and present, the succession of interest follows an ascending scale
through Toledo, Cordova, and Sevilla, culminating at Granada. Next, the
Mediterranean route presents itself as something having a special unity
of its own, with a recurrence to special phases of antiquity again in
Zaragoza, Monserrat, and Gerona. If, on the other hand, we begin with
Barcelona and go southward before coming up to Madrid, we receive a
first impression less striking and characteristic, and also pluck the
most ideal flowers--Granada, Sevilla, Cordova--before coming to Madrid.
Taken in the light of such a contrast, Toledo, Avila, Burgos, and the
rest of the northern places will seem less attractive than when grouped
together in an introductory glimpse, as a prelude to the more poetic
South.
Supposing, however, that the traveller lands at once in Cadiz, from the
deck of a steamer, he must put all this fine theory aside, and make the
best of the case. His programme will then depend on whether he proposes
to end by going into France, or to return without crossing the Pyrenees.
In the latter event, he might do well to follow the rail to Sevilla,
Cordova, Toledo, and Madrid; then visit the Escorial, Avila, Segovia,
and afterward strike off abruptly to the north-east, through Zaragoza
and Monserrat to Barcelona, coming down the coast again either by rail
or steamer to Valencia, and reserving Granada until near the end. After
Granada, a return to Malaga and a touch at Gibraltar would deposit him
exactly where he started from, at Cadiz.
Should he wish to wind up in France, the situation is more complicated.
He must then take Gibraltar first, come back to Sevilla, go to Granada,
thence to Cordova and Toledo--omitting Valencia wholly, unless he be
willing to double interminably on his tracks--pass from Toledo to
Madrid, and then decide whether he will go north-westward through Avila
and Burgos, north-eastward through Zaragoza and Barcelona, or attempt to
embrace both routes by zigzagging across the widest part of the kingdom.
There remains, finally, the alternative of starting from Cadiz, visiting
Sevilla and Granada, and then, by way of Cordova, Toledo and Madrid,
continuing north to Valladolid, Burgos, and the French frontier, without
troubling the eastern half of the country at all. This route, after all,
includes the most that is best worth seeing, if we leave out Zaragoza
and Monserrat.
Let me add only that nobody should be deterred, by the schedule given on
the preceding page, from making a shorter visit to the Peninsula, if it
come within his range, when circumstances grant him less time than is
there allotted. Even in _three_ weeks a general tour could be
accomplished, allowing several days at Madrid and very brief pauses at
Avila, the Escorial, Toledo, Cordova, Sevilla, Granada, and Barcelona.
So rapid a flight, nevertheless, the voyager must be prepared to find,
will induce a harassing sense that at every point much that it would be
desirable to see has been passed over. But even an outline of actual
experience is sometimes more prized than a complete set of second-hand
impressions.
Furthermore, a _single week_ would suffice the traveller who found
himself on the borders of Spain, to make an excursion which he could
hardly regret. Thus from Biarritz one can, in that space of time, cross
the border and run down to Madrid, glance rapidly at the gallery there,
and take the Escorial, Avila, or Burgos--or possibly two of these--on
the return. From Marseilles he can visit Gerona, Barcelona, and
Monserrat. Similarly, touching at Cadiz, he can go to Sevilla, Cordova,
and Granada, get a general survey of those places, including the
Alhambra and two of the most beautiful cathedrals in the world, and
return to Cadiz or Malaga, all in seven or eight days. Indeed, one who
has it in his power to reach Granada and spend a day or two there,
without attempting to see anything else, ought not to forego the
opportunity. The sight of the Alhambra alone, and of the enchanting
landscape that surrounds it, may well repay the loss incurred by an
inability to make farther explorations.
All these details in regard to flying trips I submit with due knowledge
that whoever profits by them, at the same time that he admits himself
under obligation for the counsel, will perhaps never forgive himself for
seeing thus much and no more, and may even include in this unrelenting
mood his benevolent adviser.
Enough, I think, has now been said to furnish a basis for all manner of
individual modification. The large anatomical lines, as it were, have
been indicated; and on these each tourist may construct his own ideal,
with any desired curtailment or extension of time to be consumed.
_Climate for Health_--The resources of Spain as a health resort are, in
general, hardly suspected, much less widely known; and a great deal has
doubtless yet to be done before they can be rendered available. Still,
the existing conditions and favorable circumstances are worth
summarizing in this place. In a singularly careful work on the winter
and spring climates of the Mediterranean shores, Dr. J. H. Bennett, of
England, arrives at some important conclusions respecting the localities
of the Spanish coast. To begin with, the vital distinction has to be
noted that the Peninsula (leaving out the corner abutting on the
Atlantic) possesses two distinct climates: _first_, that of the central
raised plains stretching from range to range of its several
mountain-ribs; and, _second_, that of the sea-level and the latitude in
which the country lies. The former is perforce much the colder, and is
subject to raw winds; the latter is mild and uncommonly dry. The health
regions of Spain are confined to the east and south-east coasts, where
the land subsides nearly to the sea-level, and is open to the balmy
influences natural to the latitude. Dr. Bennett observes that the north
and north-west winds precipitate their moisture in the mountains of the
central regions of Spain, and that the north-east winds are drawn down
to Algeria by the Desert of Sahara, which creates a sort of vacuum
compelling them southward. As a matter of fact, they do not molest the
eastern coast. Hence, in the words of this physician, "the eastern coast
of Spain is probably the driest region of Europe, drier even than the
Genoese Riviera." Accordingly, Murcia, Alicante, Valencia, Tarragona,
and even Barcelona--far north though the last-mentioned is--all offer
extraordinary advantages of climate to the average run of patients
afflicted with chronic chest disease, pulmonary consumption, chronic
bronchitis, bronchitic asthma, chronic diseases of the kidney, debility
and anæmia from any cause, and the failing vitality of old age. Cadiz,
too, possesses a most equable temperature. It is noted, however, by the
writer whom I follow, that the dry air of these places is injurious in
those exceptional cases of chest disease, of nervous asthma and
neuralgia, which are found to be aggravated by a stimulating atmosphere.
Dr. Bennett's theory is that the towns just referred to lie under a
qualifying disadvantage, inasmuch as they stand at some distance from
the mountains, thus permitting the cold winds from the latter to fall
into the plain and sweep the towns to a certain extent. But in this
connection he seems not to remember that in Nice, at least, the invalid
population are now and then scourged by the cold northern bise rushing
down the Rhone to the sea. The most serious objection to these Spanish
towns is the want of comfortable and airy quarters for invalids. Again,
at Malaga, which has been so highly recommended, the sanitary conditions
are such that any benefit from the climate is likely to be nullified by
the evil influences of a want of drainage, and of latent pestilence.
Here it may be mentioned that the Alhambra hill, at Granada, is much
resorted to by Spaniards in summer as a cool, airy, and healthful spot;
and truly there is none more lovely in its surroundings on the globe, so
far as it is usually permitted man to see. In and about the Alhambra,
too, small cottages may be hired, where the sick and weary may rest
after their own fashion, and keep house for themselves, with docile
native servants. But, whosoever fares to Spain in search of bettered
health, let him not mount the Alhambra hill save in spring, nor enter
the Mediterranean towns until after September. And, above all, let him
avoid the fatal error of supposing that the high regions of the interior
will offer any influences more soothing than those of harsh-tempered New
England.
This consideration remains, that whatever obstacles to complete comfort
may exist, the perfection of the coast climate, the stimulus of scenery
and surroundings so unique and picturesque, and the resources of
observation or of historic association opened to the sojourner in Spain
are likely to have a good effect, both mental and spiritual.
[Illustration]
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* * * * *
Boudoir of Lindarana=> Boudoir of Lindaraxa {pg 12}
azucarilios=> azucarillos {pg 5}
encouragment=> encouragement {pg 65}
intrepreter=> interpreter {pg 190}
in in the South=> in the South {pg 202}
* * * * *
FOOTNOTES:
[1] The dancing boys still officiate at Seville, also, in Holy-week,
where they leap merrily before the high altar, and do not even take off
their hats to the Host. The story runs that, years ago, a visiting
bishop from Rome found fault with this as being unorthodox, and
threatened to put a stop to it. He complained to the Pope, and a lenient
order issued from the Vatican that the observance should be discontinued
when the boys' clothes should be worn out. Up to the present day,
curiously enough, the clothes have not been worn out.
[2] These last are called _tocas_, and are rapidly superseding the long
mantilla.
[3] This characterization, our own experience led us to conclude, was
exceedingly unjust.
[4] Some time before this he had, by too adventurous play, received a
tossing which laid him up for eight months, and his death in the ring
has since been reported.
[5] In this connection it is curious to observe that the Toledan
peasants, like the Chinese, confound the letters _r_ and _l_--as when
they say _flol_ for _flor_, "flower."
[6] Contained in the series called "The Man with Five Wives."
[7] A nickname alluding to the sooty black of the clerical costume.
[8] Literally, "sun-trap."
[9] Irving's name heads the ponderous register in which visitors,
embracing some of the most distinguished of the earth, have recorded
themselves for fifty years past; and though it is not generally known,
his signature may also be found pencilled on the inner wall of the
little mosque near the Comares Tower, just under the interpolated
Spanish choir gallery. Yet there seems to be a degree of mistiness in
the Granadian mind respecting the author of "Tales of the Alhambra." I
think the people sometimes confounded him with the Father of his
Country. At all events, the Hotel Washington Irving is labelled, at one
of its entrances, "Hotel Washington," as if that were the same thing.
[10] "Fleming," a name commonly applied to Spanish gypsies; whence it
has been inferred that the first of them came from the Netherlands.
End of Project Gutenberg's Spanish Vistas, by George Parsons Lathrop