direction about N.N.W. three or four miles in quest of water, when they
arrive on the banks of a creek, where they have the good fortune to find
abundance of good water and of grass. Here they remain the day, in order
to refresh the cattle, who are not a little in want of this timely
relief, more particularly as it is proposed to commence their return
to-morrow. This determination of so soon retracing their steps, though
it cost them much regret, had become indispensable, not only from the
extreme scantiness of their remaining supplies, and the certainty of the
many difficulties they would have to encounter, but still more so from
consideration that the mere circumstance of a fall of rain by swelling
the streams, might, in the weak and ill-provided state to which the
whole party were reduced, render their return altogether impracticable.
(Four weeks' flour at reduced allowance and a small quantity of tea and
sugar, but no animal food; independently of which, the ropes and other
material employed for crossing streams were now almost utterly unfit for
use.)
THE INTERIOR OF THE CONTINENT.
+Source.+--Expeditions in Australia (Sturt, 1833), Vol. I pp. 1-2, 29,
45, 73, 85-87.
The reedy marshes in which the Lachlan and the Macquarie appeared
to end blocked Western exploration until the protracted drought of
the twenties convinced Sturt and Hume that they would be passable.
Accordingly an expedition was formed which was to solve the long
debated problem of the character of the interior.
The year 1826 was remarkable for the commencement of one of those
fearful droughts to which we have reason to believe the climate of New
South Wales is periodically subject. It continued the two following
years with unabated severity. The surface of the earth became so parched
up that minor vegetation ceased upon it. Culinary herbs were raised with
difficulty, and crops failed even in the most favourable situations.
Settlers drove their flocks and herds to distant tracts for pasture and
water, neither remaining for them in the located districts. The interior
suffered equally with the coast, and men at length began to despond
under so alarming a visitation. It almost appeared as if the Australian
sky were never again to be traversed by a cloud.
But, however severe for the colony the seasons had proved, or were
likely to prove, it was borne in mind at this critical moment that the
wet and swampy state of the interior had alone prevented Mr. Oxley from
penetrating further into it in 1818.
The immediate fitting out of an expedition was therefore decided upon,
for the express purpose of ascertaining the nature and extent of that
basin into which the Macquarie was supposed to fall, and whether
connection existed between it and the streams falling westerly. As I had
early taken a great interest in the geography of New South Wales, the
Governor was pleased to appoint me to the command of this expedition.
_Dec. 3._ The first part of our journey was over rich flats, timbered
sufficiently to afford a shade, on which the grass was luxuriant; but we
were obliged to seek open ground, in consequence of the frequent
stumbling of the cattle.
We issued, at length, upon a plain, the view across which was as dreary
as can be imagined; in many places without a tree, save a few old stumps
left by the natives when they fired the timber, some of which were still
smoking in different parts of it. Observing some lofty trees at the
extremity of the plain, we moved towards them, under an impression that
they indicated the river line. But on this exposed spot the sun's rays
fell with intense power upon us, and the dust was so minute and
penetrating, that I soon regretted having left the shady banks of the
river.
_Dec. 31._ I had no inducement to proceed further into the interior. I
had been sufficiently disappointed in the termination of this excursion,
and the track before me was still less inviting. Nothing but a dense
forest, and a level country, existed between me and a distant hill. I
had learnt, by experience, that it was impossible to form any opinion of
the probable features of so singular a region as that in which I was
wandering, from previous appearances, or to expect the same result, as
in other countries, from similar causes. In a geographical point of
view, my journey had been more successful, and had enabled me to put to
rest for ever a question of much previous doubt. I had gained a
knowledge of more than 100 miles of the western interior, and had
ascertained that no sea, indeed, that little water existed on its
surface; and that, although it is flat generally, it still has
elevations of considerable magnitude upon it.
Although I had passed over much barren ground, I had likewise noticed
soil that was far from poor, and the vegetation upon which in ordinary
seasons would, I am convinced, have borne a very different aspect.
Yet, upon the whole, the space I traversed is unlikely to become the
haunts of civilized man, or will only become so in isolated spots, as a
chain of connection to a more fertile country; if such a country exist
to the westward.
[A report of better country to the North induced Sturt to turn in that
direction.]
_Jan. 14._ Nothing could exceed in dreariness the appearance of the
tracks through which we journeyed on this and the two following days.
The creek on which we depended for a supply of water, gave such alarming
indications of a total failure that I at one time had serious thoughts
of abandoning my pursuit of it. We passed hollow after hollow that had
successively dried up, although originally of considerable depth; and,
when we at length found water, it was doubtful how far we could make use
of it. Sometimes in boiling, it left a sediment nearly equal to half its
body; at other times it was so bitter as to be quite unpalatable. That
on which we subsisted was scraped up from small puddles, heated by the
sun's rays; and so uncertain were we of finding water at the end of the
day's journey, that we were obliged to carry a supply on one of the
bullocks. There was scarcely a living creature, even of the feathered
race, to be seen to break the stillness of the forest. The native dogs
alone wandered about, though they had scarcely strength to avoid us; and
their melancholy howl, breaking in upon the ear at the dead of night,
only served to impress more fully on the mind the absolute loneliness of
the desert.
_Jan. 31._ We came upon a creek, but could not decide whether it was the
one for which we had been searching, or another. It had flooded-gum
growing upon its banks, and, on places apparently subject to flood, a
number of tall straight saplings were observed by us. We returned to the
camp, after a vain search for water, and were really at a loss what
direction next to pursue. The men kept the cattle pretty well together,
and, as we were not delayed by any preparations for breakfast, they were
saddled and loaded at an early hour. The circumstance of there having
been natives in the neighbourhood, of whom we had seen so few traces of
late, assured me that water was at hand, but in what direction it was
impossible to guess. As the path we had observed was leading northerly,
we took up that course, and had not proceeded more than a mile upon it,
when we suddenly found ourselves on the bank of a noble river. Such it
might in truth be called, where water was scarcely to be found. The
party drew up upon a bank that was from forty to forty-five feet above
the level of the stream. The channel of the river was from seventy to
eighty yards broad, and enclosed an unbroken sheet of water, evidently
very deep, and literally covered with pelicans and other wild fowl. Our
surprise and delight maybe better imagined than described. Our
difficulties seemed to be at an end, for here was a river that promised
to reward all our exertions, and which appeared every moment to increase
in importance, to our imagination. Coming from the N.E., and flowing to
the S.W., it had a capacity of channel that proved that we were as far
from its source as from its termination. The paths of the natives on
either side of it were like well-trodden roads; and the trees that
overhung it were of beautiful and gigantic growth.
Its banks were too precipitous to allow of our watering the cattle, but
the men eagerly descended to quench their thirst, which a powerful sun
had contributed to increase, nor shall I ever forget the looks of terror
and disappointment with which they called out to inform me that the
water was so salt as to be unfit to drink! This was, indeed, too true;
on tasting it, I found it extremely nauseous, and strongly impregnated
with salt, being apparently a mixture of sea and fresh water. Whence
this arose, whether from local causes, or from a communication with some
inland sea, I know not, but the discovery was certainly a blow for which
I was not prepared. Our hopes were annihilated at the moment of their
apparent realization. The cup of joy was dashed out of our hands before
we had time to raise it to our lips. Notwithstanding this
disappointment, we proceeded down the river, and halted at about five
miles, being influenced by the goodness of the feed to provide for the
cattle as well as circumstances would permit. They would not drink of
the river water, but stood covered in it for many hours, having their
noses alone exposed above the stream. Their condition gave me great
uneasiness. It was evident they could not long hold out under the
excessive thirst, and unless we should procure some fresh water, it
would be impossible for us to continue our journey.
Mr. Hume, with his usual perseverance, walked out when the camp was
formed; and at a little distance from it, ascended a ridge of pure sand,
crowned with cypresses. From this he descended to the westward, and, at
length, struck upon the river, where a reef of rocks crossed its channel
and formed a dry passage from one side to the other; but the bend which
the river must have taken appeared to him so singular, that he doubted
whether it was the same beside which we had been travelling during the
day. Curiosity led him to cross it, when he found a small pond of fresh
water on a tongue of land, and immediately afterwards, returned to
acquaint me with the welcome tidings. It was too late to move, but we
had the prospect of a comfortable breakfast in the morning.
On the 6th February we journeyed again through a barren scrub, although
on firmer ground, and passed numerous groups of huts. At about eight
miles from our last encampment, we came upon the river where its banks
were of considerable height. In riding along them Mr. Hume thought he
observed a current running, and he called to inform me of the
circumstance. On a closer examination we discovered some springs in the
very bed of the river, from which a considerable stream was gushing, and
from the incrustation around them, we had no difficulty in guessing at
their nature; in fact, they were brine springs, and I collected a
quantity of salt from the brink of them.
After such a discovery we could not hope to keep our position. No doubt
the current we had observed on first reaching the river was caused by
springs that had either escaped our notice, or were under water. Here
was at length a local cause for its saltness that destroyed at once the
anticipation and hope of our being near its termination, and,
consequently, the ardour with which we should have pressed on to decide
so interesting a point.
We calculated that we were forty miles from the camp, in a S.W.
direction, a fearful distance under our circumstances, since we could
not hope to obtain relief for two days. Independently, however, of the
state of the animals, our spirits were damped by the nature of the
country, and the change which had taken place in the soil, upon which it
was impossible that water could rest; while the general appearance of
the interior showed how much it suffered from drought. On the other
hand, although the waters of the river had become worse to the taste,
the river itself had increased in size and stretched away to the
westward, with all the uniformity of a magnificent canal, and gave every
promise of increasing importance; while the pelicans were in such
numbers upon it as to be quite dazzling to the eye. Considering,
however, that perseverance would only involve us in extricable
difficulties, and that it would also be useless to risk the horses,
since we had gained a distance to which the bullocks could not have been
brought I intimated my intention of giving up the further pursuit of the
river, though it was with extreme reluctance that I did so.
As soon as we had bathed and finished our scanty meal, I took the
bearings of D'Urban's Group, and found them to be S.58 E. about
thirty-three miles distant; and as we mounted our horses, I named the
river the "Darling," as a lasting memorial of the respect I bear the
Governor.
I should be doing injustice to Mr. Hume and my men if I did not express
my conviction that they were extremely unwilling to yield to
circumstances, and that, had I determined on continuing the journey,
they would have followed me with cheerfulness, whatever the consequences
might have been.
EXPLORATION OF THE EASTERN RIVER SYSTEM
+Source.+--Expeditions in Australia (Sturt, 1833), Vol. II, pp. 6, 8-69,
85-86, 111, 151-187, 204-217, 219.
On his first expedition Sturt had proved that the interior was dry.
He then attempted to find the destination of the Morumbidgee and
the Darling. Travelling down the Morumbidgee he discovered the
Murray and followed it to its termination, 1829.
_Dec. 27th._ M'Leay and I started at an early hour on an excursion of
deeper interest than any we had as yet undertaken; to examine the reeds,
not only for the purpose of ascertaining their extent, if possible, but
also to guide us in our future measures. We rode some miles along the
river side, but observed in it no signs either of increase or of
exhaustion. Everything tended to strengthen my conviction that we were
still far from the termination of the river. I was aware that my
resolves must be instant, decisive, and immediately acted upon, as on
firmness and promptitude at this crisis the success of the expedition
depended. About noon I checked my horse, and rather to the surprise of
my companion, intimated to him my intention of returning to the camp. He
naturally asked what I purposed doing. I told him that it appeared to me
more than probable that the Morumbidgee would hold its course good to
some fixed point, now that it had reached a meridian beyond the known
rivers of the interior. It was certain, from the denseness of the reeds,
and the breadth of the belts, that the teams could not be brought any
further, and that, taking everything into consideration, I had resolved
on a bold and desperate measure, that of building the whaleboat, and
sending home the drays.
Our appearance in camp so suddenly surprised the men not more than the
orders I gave. They all thought I had struck on some remarkable change
of country, and were anxious to know my ultimate views. It was not my
intention, however, immediately to satisfy their curiosity. I had to
study their characters as long as I could in order to select those best
qualified to accompany me on the desperate adventure for which I was
preparing.
[Sturt accordingly built the whaleboat and embarked on the river.]
_Jan. 14th._ The men looked anxiously out ahead, for the singular change
in the river had impressed on them an idea that we were approaching its
termination, or near some adventure. On a sudden, the river took a
general southern direction, but, in its tortuous course, swept round to
every point of the compass with the greatest irregularity. We were
carried at a fearful rate down its gloomy and contracted banks, and, in
such a moment of excitement, had little time to pay attention to the
country through which we were passing. It was, however, observed that
chalybeate springs were numerous close to the water's edge. At 3 p.m.
Hopkinson called out that we were approaching a junction, and in less
than a minute afterwards we were hurried into a broad and noble river.
It is impossible for me to describe the effect of so instantaneous a
change upon us. The boats were allowed to drift along at pleasure, and
such was the force with which we had been shot out of the Morumbidgee
that we were carried nearly to the bank opposite its _embouchure_,
whilst we continued to gaze in silent astonishment at the capacious
channel we had entered; and when we looked for that by which we had been
led into it, we could hardly believe that the insignificant gap that
presented itself to us was, indeed, the termination of the beautiful and
noble stream whose course we had thus successfully followed. I can only
compare the relief we experienced to that which the seaman feels on
weathering the rock upon which he expected his vessel to have struck, to
the calm which succeeds moments of feverish anxiety, when the dread of
danger is succeeded by certainty of escape.
_Jan. 23rd._ Not having as yet given a name to our first discovery, I
laid it down as the Murray River in compliment to the distinguished
officer Sir George Murray, who then presided over the Colonial
Department, not only in compliance with the known wishes of His
Excellency, General Darling, but also in accordance with my own feelings
as a soldier.
[They continued their course down the Murray till Feb. 9.]
After pulling a mile or two we found a clear horizon before us to the
south. The hills still continued upon our left, but we could not see any
elevation over the expanse of reeds to our right. The river inclined to
the left, and swept the base of the hills that still continued on that
side. I consequently landed once more to survey the country.
I still retained a strong impression on my mind that some change was at
hand, and on this occasion I was not disappointed, but the view was one
for which I was not altogether prepared. We had at length arrived at the
termination of the Murray. Immediately below me was a beautiful lake,
which appeared to be a fitting reservoir for the noble stream that led
us to it; and which was now ruffled by the breeze that swept over it.
The ranges were more distinctly visible, stretching from south to north,
and were certainly distant forty miles. They had a regular unbroken
outline; declining gradually to the south, but terminating abruptly at a
lofty mountain northerly. I had no doubt on my mind of this being the
Mount Lofty of Captain Flinders; or that the range was that immediately
to the eastward of St. Vincent's Gulf. Between us and the ranges a
beautiful promontory shot into the lake, being a continuation of the
right bank of the Murray. Over this promontory the waters stretched to
the base of the ranges, and formed an extensive bay. To the S.W. a bold
headland showed itself; beyond which, to the westward, there was a clear
and open sea visible, through a strait formed by this headland and a
point projecting from the opposite shore. Even while gazing on this fine
scene, I could not but regret that the Murray had thus terminated; for I
immediately foresaw that, in all probability, we should be disappointed
in finding any practicable communication between the lake and the ocean,
as it was evident that the former was not much influenced by tides. We
pitched our tents on a low track of land that stretched away seemingly
for many miles directly behind us to the eastward. It was of the
richest soil, being of a black vegetable deposit, and although high
above the influence the lake had, it was evident, once formed a part of
its bed. Thirty-three days had now passed over our heads since we left
the depot upon the Morumbidgee, twenty-six of which had been passed upon
the Murray. We had, at length, arrived at the grand reservoir of those
waters whose course and fate had previously been involved in such
obscurity.
I took Fraser with me, and, accompanied by M'Leay, crossed the
sand-hummocks behind us, and descended to the sea-shore. I found that we
had struck the south coast deep in the bight of Encounter Bay. We had no
time for examination, but returned immediately to the camp, as I
intended to give the men an opportunity to go to the beach. They
accordingly went and bathed, and returned not only highly delighted at
this little act of good nature on my part, but loaded with cockles, a
bed of which they had managed to find among the sand. Clayton had tied
one end of his shirt up, and brought a bag full, and amused himself with
boiling cockles all night long.
I would fain have lingered on my way to examine, as far as circumstances
would permit, the beautiful country between the lake and the ranges; and
it was with heartfelt sorrow that I yielded to necessity. My men were,
indeed, very weak from poverty of diet and from great bodily fatigue.
Hopkinson, Mulholland, and Macnamee were miserably reduced.
It will be borne in mind that our difficulties were just about to
commence, when those of most other travellers have ceased; and that
instead of being assisted by the stream whose course we had followed, we
had now to contend against the united waters of the eastern ranges, with
diminished strength, and in some measure with disappointed feelings.
Under the most favourable circumstances, it was improbable that the men
would be enabled to pull for many days longer in succession since they
had not rested upon their oars for a single day, if I except our passage
across the lake, from the moment when we started from the depot; nor was
it possible for me to buoy them up with the hope even of a momentary
cessation of labour. We had calculated the time to which our supply of
provisions would last under the most favourable circumstances, and it
was only in the event of our pulling up against the current, day after
day, the same distance we had compassed with the current in our favour,
that we could hope they would last as long as we continued in the
Murray. But in the event of floods or any unforeseen delay, it was
impossible to calculate at what moment we might be driven to extremity.
On the other hand, it was sufficiently evident to me that the men were
too much exhausted to perform the task that was before them without
assistance, and that it would be necessary both for M'Leay and myself to
take our share of labour at the oars. The cheerfulness and satisfaction
that my young friend evinced at the opportunity that was thus afforded
him of making himself useful, and of relieving those under him from some
portion of their toil, at the same time that they increased my sincere
esteem for him, were nothing more than what I expected from one who had
endeavoured by every means in his power to contribute to the success of
that enterprise upon which he had embarked. But although I have said
thus much of the exhausted condition of the men, I would by no means be
understood to say that they flagged for a moment, or that a single
murmur escaped them. No reluctance was visible, no complaint was heard,
but there was that in their aspect and appearance which they could not
hide, and which I could not mistake. We re-entered the river on the 13th
under as fair prospects as we could have desired. The gale which had
blown with such violence in the morning gradually abated, and a steady
breeze enabled us to pass our first encampment, by availing ourselves of
it as long as daylight continued.
_Feb. 18th._ The breezes that had so much assisted us from the lake
upwards, had now lost their influence, or failed to reach to the
distance we had gained. Calms succeeded them, and obliged us to labour
continually at the oars. We lost ground fast, and it was astonishing to
remark how soon the men's spirits drooped again under their first
efforts. They fancied the boat pulled heavily and that her bottom was
foul, but such was not the case. The current was not so strong as when
we passed down, since the river had evidently fallen more than a foot,
and was so shallow in several places that we were obliged to haul the
boat over them. On these occasions we were necessarily obliged to get
out of her into the water, and had afterwards to sit still and to allow
the sun to dry our clothes upon us. The unemployed consequently envied
those at the oars, as they sat shivering in their dripping clothes.
I have omitted to mention one remarkable trait of the good disposition
of all the men while on the coast. Our sugar had held out to that point;
but it appeared when we examined the stores that six pounds alone
remained in the cask. This the men positively refused to touch. They
said that, divided, it would benefit nobody; that they hoped M'Leay and
I would use it, that it would last us for some time, and that they were
better able to submit to privations than we were. The feeling did them
infinite credit, and the circumstance is not forgotten by me. The little
supply the kindness of our men left to us was, however, soon exhausted,
and poor M'Leay preferred pure water to the bitter draught that
remained. I have been sometimes unable to refrain from smiling as I
watched the distorted countenances of my humble companions while
drinking their tea and eating their damper.
_March 17th._ We had been drawing nearer the Morumbidgee every day; and
the following afternoon, to our great joy, we turned our boat into the
gloomy and narrow channel of the tributary. Our feelings were almost as
strong when we re-entered it as they had been when we were launched from
it into that river, on whose waters we had continued for upwards of
fifty-five days; during which period, including the sweeps and bends it
made, we could not have travelled less than 1,500 miles.
Our daily journeys were short, and the head we made against the stream
but trifling. The men lost the proper and muscular jerk with which they
once made the waters foam and the oars bend. Their whole bodies swung
with an awkward and laboured motion. Their arms appeared to be
nerveless; their faces became haggard, their persons emaciated, their
spirits wholly sunk; nature was so completely overcome, that from mere
exhaustion they frequently fell asleep during their painful and almost
ceaseless exertions. It grieved me to the heart to see them in such a
state at the close of so perilous a service, and I began to reproach
Robert Harris that he did not move down the river to meet us; but, in
fact, he was not to blame. I became captious, and found fault where
there was no occasion, and lost the equilibrium of my temper in
contemplating the condition of my companions. No murmur, however,
escaped them, nor did a complaint reach me that was intended to
indicate that they had done all they could do. I frequently heard them
in their tent, when they thought I had dropped asleep, complaining of
severe pains, and of great exhaustion. "I must tell the Captain,
to-morrow," some of them would say, "that I can pull no longer."
To-morrow came, and they pulled on, as if reluctant to yield to
circumstances. Macnamee at length lost his senses. We first observed
this from his incoherent conversation, but eventually from his manner.
He related the most extraordinary tales and fidgetted about eternally
while in the boat. I felt it necessary, therefore, to relieve him from
the oars.
_April 12th._ I determined on sending Hopkinson and Mulholland, whose
devotion, intelligence and indefatigable spirits I well knew, forward to
the plain.
The joy this intimation spread was universal. Both Hopkinson and
Mulholland readily undertook the journey, and I, accordingly, prepared
orders for them to start by the earliest dawn.
Six days had passed since their departure; we remaining encamped. I had
calculated on seeing Hopkinson again in eight days, but as the morrow
would see us without food, I thought, as the men had had a little rest,
it would be better to advance towards relief than to await its arrival.
On the evening of the 18th, therefore, we buried our specimens and other
stores, intending to break up the camp in the morning. A singular bird,
which invariably passed it at an hour after sunset, and which, from the
heavy flight, appeared to be of unusual size, had so attracted my
notice, that in the evening M'Leay and I crossed the river in hope to
get a shot at it. We had, however, hardly landed on the other side, when
a loud shout called us back to witness the return of our comrades.
They were both of them in a state that beggars description. Their knees
and ankles were dreadfully swollen and their limbs so painful that as
soon as they arrived in the camp they sunk under their efforts, but they
met us with a smiling countenance and expressed their satisfaction at
having come so seasonably to our relief. They had, as I had foreseen,
found Robert Harris on the plain, which they reached on the evening of
the third day. They had started early the next morning on their return
with such supplies as they thought we might immediately want. Poor
Macnamee had in a great measure recovered, but for some days he was
sullen and silent; the sight of the drays gave him uncommon
satisfaction. Clayton gorged himself; but M'Leay, myself, and Fraser
could not at first relish the meat that was placed before us.
THE INTERIOR. II
+Source.+--Life of Charles Sturt (Mrs. N.G. Sturt), pp. 230-232,
264-267, 279-280
Observations of the migrations of birds convinced Sturt that there
was good land in the interior of New South Wales, and in 1844 he
set out to find it. His expedition failed because the season was
exceptionally dry, and he was obliged to turn back before he had
accomplished his object.
"If a line be drawn from Lat. 29° 30´ and Long. 140° N.W., and another
from Mount Arden due north, they will meet a little to the northward of
the tropic, and there I will be bound to say a fine country will be
discovered." On what date Sturt pledges himself to the discovery of this
fine country is not stated, but when later regretting his failure to
reach the tropic and to set at rest his hypothesis of the better country
to be found there, he briefly tells his reason for the supposition.
"Birds observed east of the Darling in the summer of 1828 in about lat.
29° 30´ S. and long. 144° had invariably migrated to the W.N.W.
Cockatoos and parrots, known while in the colony to frequent the richest
and best-watered valleys of the higher lands, would pass in countless
flights to that point of the compass. In South Australia, in lat. 35°
and long. 138°, I had also observed that several birds of the same kind
annually visited that Province from the north. I had seen the Psittacus
Novae Hollandiae and the shell paroquet following the shoreline of St.
Vincent's Gulf like flights of starlings in England. The different
flights at intervals of more than a quarter of an hour, all came from
the north, and followed in one and the same direction.
"Now although the casual appearance of a few strange birds should not
influence the judgement, yet from the regular migrations of the
feathered race, a reasonable inference may be drawn. Seeing then that
these two lines (viz., from Fort Bourke about lat. 30° and long. 144° to
the W.N.W., and from Mount Arden in lat. 35° long. 138° to the north)
if prolonged would meet a little to the northward of the tropic, I
formed the following conclusions:
"First, that the birds migrating on those lines would rest for a time at
a point where those lines met.
"Secondly, that the country to which they went would resemble that which
they had left, that birds which frequented rich valleys or high hills
would not settle down in deserts and flat country.
"Thirdly, that the intervening country, whether owing to deserts or
large sheets of water, was not such as these birds could inhabit.
Indeed, such large migrations from different parts to one particular,
argued no less strongly the existence of deserts or of sea to a certain
distance, than the probable richness of the country, to which as to a
common goal these migrations tended.
"On the late expedition, at the Depot in lat. 29-1/2° and long. 142°, I
found myself in the direct line of migration to the north-west; and to
that point of the compass, birds whom I knew to visit Van Diemen's Land
would, after watering, pass on. Cockatoos, after a few hours' rest,
would wing their way to the north-west, as also would various
water-birds, as well as pigeons, parrots, and paroquets, pursued by
birds of the Accipitrine class. From these indications I was led to look
still more for the realization of my hopes, if I could but force my way
to the necessary distance.
"I ran 170 miles without crossing a single water-course. I travelled
over salsolaceous plains, crossed sand-ridges, was turned from my
westward course by salt-water lakes; and at last, on October 19th, at
about 80 miles to the east of my former track, I found myself on the
brink of the Stony Desert. Coming suddenly on it I almost lost my
breath. If anything, it looked more forbidding than before. Herbless and
treeless, it filled more than half of the horizon. Not an object was
visible on which to steer, yet we held on our course by compass like a
ship at sea.
"Poor Browne was in excruciating pain from scurvy. Every day I expected
to find him unable to stir. My men were ill from exposure, scanty food,
and muddy water; my horses leg-weary and reduced to skeletons. I alone
stood unscathed, but I could not bear to leave my companion in that
heartless desert.
"Finding myself baffled to the north and to the west, seeing no hope of
rain, realizing that my retreat was too probably already cut off, I
reluctantly turned back to the depot, 443 miles distant, and only
through the help of Providence did we at length reach it."
Sturt, as he mounted to begin his retreat, was nearly induced to turn
again by "a flock of paroquets that flew shrieking from the north
towards Eyre's Creek. They proved that to the last we had followed with
unerring precision the line of migration."
SCOPE AND RESULTS OF CENTRAL EXPEDITION AS SUMMED UP BY STURT
My instructions directed me to gain the meridian of Mount Arden or that
of 138°, with a view to determine whether there were any chain of
mountains connected with the high lands seen by Mr. Eyre to the westward
of Lake Torrens, and running into the interior from south-west to
north-east. I was ordered to push to the westward and to make the south
the constant base of my operations. I was prohibited from descending to
the north-coast, but it was left optional with me to fall back on
Moreton Bay if I should be forced to the eastward. Whether I performed
the task thus assigned to me or wavered in the accomplishment of it;
whether I fell short of my duty, or yielded only to insuperable
difficulties, the world will be enabled to judge. That I found no fine
country is to be regretted; however, I was not sent to find a fine
country, but to solve a geographical problem. I trust I am not
presumptuous in saying that, from a geographical point of view, the
results of this expedition have been complete. If I did not gain the
heart of the continent, no one will refuse me the credit of having taken
a direct course for it. My distance from that hitherto mysterious spot
was less than 150 miles. In ten days I should have reached the goal; and
that task would have been accomplished had rain fallen when I was at my
farthest north. Had I found such a river as the Victoria, I would have
clung to it to the last; but those alone will really know the nature of
the country who shall follow me into it When I determined on turning
homewards, with mind depressed and strength weakened, it appeared to me
that I had done all that man could do. Now, under the influence of
restored health, I feel that I did far too little. I can only say that I
would not hesitate again to plunge into those dreary regions, that I
might be the first to place my foot in the centre of this vast
territory, and finally to raise the veil which still shrouds its
features, even though, like those of the veiled prophet, they should
wither the beholder.
ACROSS THE CONTINENT. SOUTH TO NORTH. I
+Source.+--Papers relating to the Burke and Wills Exploring Expedition,
1861. Published in the _Argus_, pp. 2-5, 19-20
In the year 1860 an expedition was planned to travel from Melbourne
to the Gulf of Carpentaria. The leader was Robert Burke, and though
with Wills, Gray, and King he reached the Gulf, the return was
fatal owing to the desertion of the Cooper's Creek Depot by the
other members of the expedition.
In the course of his evidence before the Commission of Inquiry Mr. King,
the sole survivor, said:
The day before we arrived at Cooper's Creek we were allowed to consume
as much provisions as we chose, in expectations of finding supplies so
soon. We had only one pound of dry meat when we got there. If we had
found no provisions there, we should all have died. It was as much as
any of us could do to travel along the side of the creek. We had been so
weak, that for ten days before, we had scarcely been able to make much
distance, or to walk about. I seemed to be worse than either Mr. Burke
or Mr. Wills, but after we arrived at the Depot I improved much more
than they did. We had no difficulty in finding the provisions there. We
arrived in the moonlight at half-past seven o'clock at night, after
having pushed on thirty miles that day. Mr. Burke rode on one of the
camels, and I and Mr. Wills on the other. We had our revolvers with us,
and had been continually shooting at the crows and hawks. When we got to
the Depot Mr. Burke was a little ahead of Mr. Wills and myself. He had
often before said, "I think I can see their tents ahead," and made
several remarks like that until we arrived there. When we got near, he
said, "I suppose they have shifted to some other part of the creek." It
was Mr. Wills who first saw the tree-mark, and saw the things scattered
about the stockade. He saw the words, "Dig three feet to the
north-east," or north-west; I am not certain which. When he saw the date
at which they came to the camp, and the date at which they left, he said
at once, "They have left here to-day. If they had shifted to any other
part of the creek, they would not have marked this." We set to work
digging up the plant. We did not know where they had gone to, but
thought they had left some instructions. Mr. Burke was too much excited
to do anything, and Mr. Wills and myself dug up the plant. I got the
bottle there and Mr. Burke said: "Whatever instructions they have left
are in this bottle." I then opened it and handed it to him. When he had
read it, he informed us that the other party, except Paton, and that the
animals were in good working order, and that on account of no person
coming up to them, they had made a start for Camp 60, taking a course
S.E. for Bulloo. Mr. Burke then said it was madness to attempt to follow
them, as their men were in good order, and their camel too. He said we
could not expect to make forced marches, and catch them up. Had the
latter said they were in a weak state, as it appeared they were, we
should have tried at any rate to overtake them. We remained at the creek
a few days, and Mr. Burke and Mr. Wills had a consultation as to what
was best to be done.
We left no provisions behind us, but took everything with us. When we
had consumed all the sugar but 12 lb. we gave some balls of it to the
camel. For a few days our principal food was porridge, which we
preferred to anything else. We boiled it with water and sugar. In going
down towards Mount Hopeless, we found we could not carry all the things
we brought with us. We had to leave the camel-pads and such things. We
made two attempts to get to Mount Hopeless. After losing one camel we
remained at the creek some short time, till we recovered strength to
start for Cooper's Creek again. We had only the clothes we stood in, and
no bed-clothing but the camels' pads and two oilcloths. We had boots and
trousers, such as they were.
BURKE'S LAST LETTER
The following is the despatch of Mr. Burke, left at the Depot at
Cooper's Creek:
Depot No. 2, Cooper's Creek, Camp No. 65.--The return party from
Carpentaria, consisting of myself, Wills and King (Gray dead) arrived
here last night, and found that the depot party had only started on the
same day. We proceed on to-morrow slowly down the creek towards Adelaide
by Mount Hopeless, and shall endeavour to follow Gregory's track; but we
are very weak. The two camels are done up, and we shall not be able
travel faster than four or five miles a day. Gray died on the road from
exhaustion and fatigue. We have all suffered much from hunger. The
provisions left here will, I think, restore our strength. We have
discovered a practicable route to Carpentaria, the chief portion of
which lies on the 140th decree of east longitude. There is some good
country between this and the Stony Desert. From there to the tropic the
country is dry and stony. Between the tropic and Carpentaria a
considerable portion is rangy, but it is well watered and richly
grassed. We reached the shores of Carpentaria on 11th February, 1861.
Greatly disappointed at finding the party here gone.
(Signed) ROBERT O'HARA BURKE, Leader.
April 22nd, 1861.
P.S.--The camels cannot travel, and we cannot walk, or we should follow
the other party. We shall move very slowly down the creek.
KING'S NARRATIVE
Mr. Burke requested Mr. Wills to go up the creek as far as the Depot,
and to place a note in the plant there, stating that we were then living
on the creek, the former note having stated that we were on our road to
South Australia. He also was to bury there the field-books of the
journey to the Gulf.
Mr. Wills being returned, it was decided to go up the creek and live
with the natives, if possible, as Mr. Wills thought we should have but
little difficulty in obtaining provisions from them if we camped on the
opposite side of the creek to them. He said he knew where they had gone,
so we packed up and started. Coming to the gunyahs where we expected to
have found them, we were disappointed, and seeing a nardoo field close
by, halted, intending to make it our camp. For some time we were
employed gathering nardoo, and laying up a supply.
Mr. Wills and I used to collect and carry home a bag each day, and Mr.
Burke generally pounded sufficient for our dinner during our absence,
but Mr. Wills found himself getting very weak, and was shortly unable to
go out to gather nardoo as before, nor even strong enough to pound it,
so that in a few days he became almost helpless. Mr. Burke now proposed
that I should gather as much nardoo as possible in three days, and that
with this supply we should go in search of the natives--a plan which had
been urged upon us by Mr. Wills as the only chance of saving him and
ourselves as well, as he clearly saw that I was no longer able to
collect sufficient for our wants. Having collected the seed, as
proposed, and having pounded sufficient to last Mr. Wills for eight
days, and two days for ourselves, we placed water and firewood within
his reach and started. Before leaving him, however, Mr. Burke asked him
whether he still wished it, as under no other circumstances would he
leave him; and Mr. Wills again said that he looked on it as our only
chance. He then gave Mr. Burke a letter and his watch for his father,
and we buried the remainder of the field-books near the gunyah.
In travelling the first day, Mr. Burke seemed very weak and complained
of great pain in his legs and back. On the second day he seemed to be
better, and said that he thought he was getting stronger, but, on
starting, did not go two miles before he said he could go no further. I
persisted in his trying to go on, and managed to get him along several
times, until I saw that he was almost knocked up, when he said he could
not carry his swag, and threw all he had away. I also reduced mine,
taking nothing but a gun and some powder and shot and a small pouch and
some matches. On starting again we did not go far before Mr. Burke said
we should halt for the night, but, as the place was close to a large
sheet of water, and exposed to the wind, I prevailed to go a little
further, to the next reach of water where we camped.
We searched about and found a few small patches of nardoo, which I
collected and pounded, and with a crow, which I shot, made a good
evening's meal. From the time we halted, Mr. Burke seemed to be getting
worse, although he ate his supper. He said he felt convinced he could
not last many hours, and gave me his watch, which, he said, belonged to
the Committee; and a pocket-book, to give to Sir William Stawell, and in
which he wrote some notes. He then said to me: "I hope you will remain
with me here till I am quite dead--it is a comfort to know that some one
is by; but when I am dying, it is my wish that you should place the
pistol in my right hand, and that you leave me unburied as I lie." That
night he spoke very little, and the following morning I found him
speechless, or nearly so; and about eight o'clock he expired. I remained
a few hours there, but as I saw there was no use in remaining longer, I
went up the creek in search of the natives. I felt very lonely, and at
night usually slept in deserted wurleys, belonging to the natives. Two
days after leaving the spot where Mr. Burke died, I found some gunyahs,
where the natives had deposited a bag of nardoo, sufficient to last me a
fortnight, and three bundles containing various articles. I also shot a
crow that evening, but was in great dread that the natives would come
and deprive me of the nardoo.
I remained there two days to recover my strength, and then returned to
Mr. Wills. I took back three crows; but found him lying dead in his
gunyah, and the natives had been there and had taken away some of his
clothes. I buried the corpse with sand, and remained some days; but
finding that my stock of nardoo was running short, and being unable to
gather it, I tracked the natives who had been to the camp by their
foot-prints in the sand, and went some distance down the creek, shooting
crows and hawks on the road. The natives hearing the report of the gun,
came to meet me, and took me with them to their camp, giving me nardoo
and fish. They took the birds I had shot and cooked them for me, and
afterwards showed me a gunyah, where I was to sleep with three of the
single men.
They appeared to feel great compassion for me when they understood that
I was alone on the creek, and gave me plenty to eat. After being four
days with them, I saw that they were becoming tired of me, and they made
signs that they were going up the creek, and that I had better go
downwards; but I pretended not to understand them. The same day they
shifted camp, and I followed them; and on reaching their camp, I shot
some crows, which pleased them so much that they made me a breakwind in
the centre of their camp, and came and sat round me until such time as
the crows were cooked, when they assisted me to eat them. The same day
one of the women to whom I had given part of a crow, came and gave me a
ball of nardoo, saying that she would give me more only she had such a
sore arm that she was unable to pound. She showed me a sore on her arm,
and the thought struck me that I would boil some water in the billy and
wash her arm with a sponge. During the operation the whole tribe sat
round and were muttering one to another. Her husband sat down by her
side and she was crying all the time. After I had washed it, I touched
it with some nitrate of silver, when she began to yell and ran off,
crying out, "Mokow! Mokow!" ("Fire! fire!"). From this time, she and her
husband used to give me a small quantity of nardoo both night and
morning, and whenever the tribe were about going on a fishing excursion,
he used to give me notice to go with them. They also used to assist me
in making a wurley, or breakwind, whenever they shifted camp. I
generally shot a crow or a hawk, and gave it to them in return for these
little services.
From this time to when the relief party arrived--a period of about a
month--they treated me with uniform kindness, and looked upon me as one
of themselves. The day on which I was released, one of the tribe who had
been fishing came and told me that the white fellows were coming, and
the whole of the tribe who were then in camp sallied out in every
direction to meet the party, while the man who had brought the news took
me over the creek, where I shortly saw the party coming down.
ACROSS THE CONTINENT. SOUTH TO NORTH. II
+Source.+--Explorations in Australia (J.M. Stuart. Hardman, 1865). pp.
164-165, 406-411
Stuart accompanied Sturt in 1844-5, and subsequently became an
enthusiastic explorer. Three times he set out to travel from
Adelaide to the Indian Ocean; the first time passing through the
centre, and finally attaining his object in 1862. The Overland
Telegraph line is laid along his track.
THE CENTRE
_Sunday, 22nd April._ Small Gum Creek, under Mount Stuart, Centre of
Australia. To-day I find from my observations of the sun, 111° 00' 30",
that I am now camped in the centre of Australia. I have marked a tree
and planted the British Flag there. There is a high mount about two
miles and a half to the N.N.E. I wish it had been in the centre; but on
it to-morrow, I will raise a cone of stones, and plant the flag there,
and name it "Central Mount Stuart." We have been in search of permanent
water to-day, but cannot find any. I hope from the top of Central Mount
Stuart to find something good to the N.W. Examined a large creek; can
find no surface water, but got some by scratching in the sand. It is a
large creek divided into many channels, but they are all filled with
sand; splendid grass all round this camp.
_Monday, 23rd April._ Centre. Took Kekwick and the flag, and went to the
top of the Mount, but found it to be much higher and more difficult of
ascent than I anticipated. After a deal of labour, slips and knocks, we
at last arrived on the top. The view to the north is over a large plain
of gums, mulga, and spinifex, with watercourses running through it. The
large gum creek that we crossed winds round this hill in a N.E.
direction; at about ten miles it is joined by another. After joining
they take a course more north, and I lost sight of them in the far
distant plain. To the N.N.E. is the termination of the hills; to the
N.E., E. and S.E. are broken ranges, and to the N.N.W. the ranges on the
west side of the plain terminate. To the N.W. are broken ranges; and to
the W. is a very high peak, between which, and this place to the S.W.
are a number of isolated hills. Built a large cone of stones, in the
centre of which I placed a pole with the British flag nailed to it. Near
the top of the cone I placed a small bottle, in which there is a slip of
paper, with our signatures to it, stating by whom it was raised. We then
gave three hearty cheers for the flag, the emblem of civil and religious
liberty, and may it be a sign to the natives that the dawn of liberty,
civilization, and Christianity is about to break upon them. We can see
no water from the top. Descended, but did not reach the camp till after
dark. This water still continues which makes me think there must
certainly be more higher up. I have named the range "John Range," after
my friend and well-wisher, John Chambers, Esq., brother to James
Chambers, Esq., one of the promoters of this expedition.
ACROSS AT LAST
_Thursday, 24th July._ Thring Creek, entering the Marsh. Started at
7.40, course north. I have taken this course in order to make the
sea-coast, which I suppose to be distant about eight miles and a half,
as soon as possible; by this I hope to avoid the marsh. I shall travel
along the beach to the north of the Adelaide. I did not inform any of
the party except Thring and Auld, that I was so near to the sea, as I
wished to give them a surprise on reaching it. Proceeded through a light
soil, slightly elevated with a little ironstone on the surface, the
volcanic rock cropping out occasionally; also some flats of black
alluvial soil. The timber much smaller and more like scrub, showing that
we are nearing the sea.
At eight miles and a half came upon a broad valley of black alluvial
soil, covered with long grass; from this I can hear the wash of the sea.
On the other side of the valley, which is rather more than a quarter of
a mile wide, is growing a line of thick heavy bushes, very dense,
showing that to be the boundary of the beach. Crossed the valley and
entered the scrub, which was a complete network of vines. Stopped the
horses to clear a way, whilst I advanced a few yards on to the beach,
and was gratified and delighted to behold the water of the Indian Ocean
in Van Diemen's Gulf, before the party with the horses knew anything of
its proximity. Thring, who rode in advance of me, called out "The Sea!"
which so took them all by surprise, and they were so astonished that he
had to repeat the call before they fully understood what was meant. Then
they immediately gave three long and hearty cheers. The beach is covered
with a soft blue mud. It being ebb tide, I could see some distance;
found it would be impossible for me to take the horses along it; I
therefore kept them where I had halted them, and allowed half the party
to come on to the beach and gratify themselves by a sight of the sea,
while the other half remained to watch the horses until their return. I
dipped my feet, and washed my face and hands in the sea, as I promised
the late Governor, Sir Richard McDonnell, I would do if I reached it.
The mud has nearly covered all the shells; we got a few, however. I
could see no seaweed. There is a point of land some distance off,
bearing 70°. After all the party had had some time on the beach, at
which they were much pleased and gratified, they collected a few shells;
I returned to the valley, where I had my initials (J.M.D.S.) cut on a
large tree, as I did not intend, until I arrived at the mouth of the
Adelaide, to put up my flag. Proceeded along the valley; at one mile and
a half coming upon a small creek, with running water, and the valley
being covered with beautiful green grass, I have camped to give the
horses the benefit of it. Thus have I, through the instrumentality of
Divine Providence, been led to accomplish the great object of the
expedition, and take the whole party safely as witnesses to the fact,
and through one of the finest countries man could wish to behold, good
to the coast and with a stream of water within half a mile of the sea.
From Newcastle water to the sea-beach, the main body of the horses have
been only one night without water and then got it within the next day.
If this country is settled, it will be one of the finest colonies under
the Crown, suitable for the growth of any and everything--what a
splendid country for producing cotton! Judging from the number of the
pathways from the water to the beach, across the valley, the natives
must be very numerous; we have not seen any, although we have passed
many of their recent tracks and encampments. The cabbage and fan
palm-trees have been very plentiful during to-day's journey down to this
valley. This creek I named "Charles Creek," after the eldest son of John
Chambers, Esq.; it is one by which some large bodies of springs
discharge their surplus water into Van Diemen's Gulf; its banks are of
soft mud, and boggy. Wind, south. Latitude, 12° 13´ 30".
_Friday, 25th July._ Charles Creek, Van Diemen's Gulf. I have sent
Thring to the south-west to see if he can get round the marsh. If it is
firm ground I shall endeavour to make the mouth of the river by that
way. After a long search he has returned, and informs me that it is
impracticable, being too boggy for the horses. As the great object of
this expedition is now attained, and the mouth of the river already well
known, I do not think it advisable to waste the strength of my horses in
forcing them through, neither do I see what object I should gain by
doing so; they have still a very long and fatiguing journey in
recrossing the continent to Adelaide, and my health is so bad that I am
unable to bear a long day's ride. I shall, therefore, cross this creek
and see if I can get along by the sea-beach, or close to it. Started and
had great difficulty in getting the horses over, though we cut a large
quantity of grass, putting it on the banks and on logs of wood which
were put into it. We had a number bogged, and I was nearly losing one of
my best horses, and was obliged to have him pulled out with ropes; after
the loss of some time we succeeded in getting them all over safely. At
two miles came upon an open part of the beach, went on to it, and again
found the mud quite impassable for horses. Stopped the party, as this
travelling is too much for the horses, and, taking Thring with me, rode
two miles to see if the ground was any firmer in places; found it very
soft where the salt water had covered it, in others not so bad. Judging
from the number of the shells banked up in different places, the sea
must occasionally come over this. I saw at once that this would not do
for the weak state in which my horses were, and I therefore returned to
where I left the party, resolving to re-cross the continent to the City
of Adelaide. I now had an open place cleared, and selecting one of the
tallest trees, stripped it of its lower branches, and on its highest
branch fixed my flag, the Union Jack, with my name sewn in the centre of
it. When this was completed, the party gave three cheers, and Mr.
Kekwick then addressed me, congratulating me on having completed this
great and important undertaking, to which I replied. Mr. Waterhouse also
spoke a few words on the same subject, and concluded with three cheers
for the Queen, and three for the Prince of Wales. At one foot south from
the foot of the tree is buried, about eight inches below the ground, an
air-tight tin case, in which is a paper with the following notice:
"South Australian Great Northern Exploring Expedition. The exploring
party, under the command of John McDouall Stuart arrived at this spot on
the 25th day of July, 1862, having crossed the entire continent of
Australia from the Southern to the Indian Ocean, passing through the
centre. They left the City of Adelaide on the 26th day of October 1861,
and the most northern station of the colony on 21st day of January,
1862. To commemorate this happy event, they have raised this flag
bearing his name. All well. God Save the Queen!"
(Here follow the signatures of myself and party.)
As this bay has not been named, I have taken this opportunity of naming
it "Chambers Bay," in honour of Miss Chambers, who kindly presented me
with the flag which I have planted this day, and I hope this may be the
first sign of the dawn of approaching civilization.
Exactly this day nine months the party left North Adelaide. Before
leaving, between the hours of eleven and twelve o'clock, they had lunch
at Mr. Chambers' house; John Bentham Neals, Esq., being present,
proposed success to me, and wished I might plant the flag on the
north-west coast. At the same hour of the day, nine months after, the
nag was raised on the shores of Chambers Bay, Van Diemen Gulf. (On the
bark of the tree on which the flag is placed is cut--DIG ONE FOOT, S.)
We then bade farewell to the Indian Ocean, and returned to Charles
Creek, where we had again great difficulty in getting the horses
across, but it was at last accomplished without accident. We have passed
numerous and recent tracks of natives to-day; they are still burning the
country at some distance from the coast.
[_Note._ The memorandum left by Stuart on top of the Central Mountain
runs as follows:]
John McDouall Stuart and party consisting of two men and himself arrived
from Adelaide in the Centre of Australia on Saturday evening the twenty
first day of April 1860, and have built this cone of stones and raised
this flag to commemorate the event, on top of Mount Sturt; the centre is
about two miles South South West at a small gum creek where there is a
tree marked facing the south.
(Signed) JOHN MCDOUALL STUART (Leader)
WILLIAM DARTON KEKWICK
BENJAMIN HEAD.
_21st April 1860,_
_Centre of Australia._
The name of the Central Mountain appears in the published journal as
_Stuart_. This is probably due to a mistake of the publisher's, which
remained uncorrected, as Stuart was very ill when his journal was
printed.
FROM WEST TO EAST. I. ALONG THE BIGHT
+Source.+--Explorations in Australia (John Forrest, 1875), pp. 83-94,
107-114, 121-135.
In 1870 Forrest set out to explore the country along the Bight. It
had previously been considered desert land, but the expedition
discovered valuable country behind the cliffs.
We started from Perth on the afternoon of Wednesday, the 30th of March
1870. His Excellency the Governor accompanied us for about three miles
on the Albany Road. We had fifteen horses, and provisions sufficient for
the journey to Esperance Bay, a distance of about 450 miles, where it
was arranged further supplies would await us.
_May 18th._ Esperance Bay. After starting the party went in advance with
Billy to prepare camp at Israelite Bay. When we reached it, were
delighted to find the _Adur_ lying safely at anchor there; proceeding on
board found all well. Procured abundance of water by digging one foot
deep in the sand-hills, and good feed a short distance from camp.
Our friends on the _Adur_ were looking anxiously for us. We were two
days behind the appointed time, and they feared some evil had befallen
us, not taking into consideration the many delays incidental to such a
journey through strange and difficult country as we had made.
On the 24th of May we determined to celebrate the Queen's birthday. All
hands from the _Adur_ came ashore, and I drew them up in line under the
Union Jack, which was duly hoisted near the camp. We presented arms;
sang "God Save the Queen" vigorously, and fired a salute of twenty-one
guns, finishing with three cheers. I venture to record that our vocal
efforts were as sincerely and heartily made in the Australian wilderness
as any which rang that day in any part of Her Majesty's wide dominions.
We were all highly delighted--not only feeling that we had done our duty
as loyal subjects, but other celebrations in more civilized places were
forcibly recalled to memory.
_June 22nd._ Saddled up at dawn, and steering southerly over clear, open
grassy plains for twenty-eight miles, we reached the cliffs, and rested
an hour; after which we continued our journey and reached camp a little
after dark, finding all well.
_June 23rd._ Made preparations for a start for Eucla to-morrow, and put
everything in travelling order. During my absence, Osborn had got the
horses' feet in order, and the pack-saddles had been overhauled and
repairs generally made. In looking round the camp, Tommy Windich found
shoulder-blade of a horse and two small pieces of leather. They no doubt
belonged to Mr. Eyre's equipment, and, on reference to his journal, I
find he was here obliged to kill a horse for food.
I cut off part of the shoulder-blade, and have since given it, together
with the pieces of leather, to His Excellency Governor Weld.
_June 24th._ Started at 8.30 a.m. _en route_ for Eucla. Steering in a
N.N.E. direction for fifteen miles, reached the cliffs, and after
following along them two miles, found a large rock water-hole, but in an
almost inaccessible spot. While I was examining the cliffs near, to find
a place where we could get the horses up, Tommy heard a coo-ey, and
after answering it a good many times, we were surprised to see two
natives walking up towards us, unarmed. I approached and met them; they
did not appear at all frightened and at once began to eat the damper I
gave them. We could not understand anything they said. I beckoned them
to come along with us, which they at once did, and followed so closely
after as to tramp on my spurs. They pointed to water further ahead.
After walking about a mile, four more natives were seen running after
us, who, on joining, made a great noise, singing and appearing very
pleased. Shortly afterwards two more followed, making seven in all; all
entirely naked. We found the water alluded to, on the top of the cliffs,
but it being too late to get the horses up, we turned off to the
southward half a mile, and camped on a small grassy flat, without water
for the horses. The seven natives slept at our fire. We gave them as
much damper as they could eat. They had not the least particle of
clothing, and made pillows of each other's bodies, and resembled pigs
more than human beings.
_July 1st._ Descending the cliffs with difficulty, we followed along the
foot of them, which was beautifully grassed, and, after travelling
twelve miles, beheld the Eucla sand-hills. On my pointing them out,
every heart was full of joy, and, being away some distance, I heard the
long and continued hurrahs from the party! Eucla was all the
conversation! I never before remember witnessing such joy as was evinced
on this occasion by all the party. After travelling five miles further,
we camped close to the cliffs at a small water-hole. We might have
reached Eucla this evening, but I preferred doing so to-morrow, when we
could have the day before us to choose camp. We are now again in safety,
Eucla being only seven miles distant; after having travelled 166 miles
without finding permanent water--in fact, over 300 miles with only one
place where we procured permanent water. I trust we all recognized with
sincerity and thankfulness the guiding and protecting Father who had
brought us through in safety.
_July 2nd._ Made an early start and steered straight for the anchorage,
distant about five miles, having first ascended the range to have a view
of the country, which was very extensive. Far as the eye could reach to
the westward, the Roe Plains and Hampton Range were visible; while to
the eastward lay Wilson's Bluff and the Delissier sand-hills; and three
miles west of them we were delighted to behold the good schooner _Adur_,
riding safely at anchor in Eucla harbour, which formed by no means the
least pleasing feature of the scene to our little band of weary
travellers. Made at once for the vessel, and on reaching her, found all
well and glad to see us. She was anchored between the Red and Black
Beacons. The latter had been blown down, but shall be re-erected. There
being no water at the anchorage, moved on to the Delissier sand-hills,
where we found water by digging two and a half feet from the surface.
Camped on the west side of the sand-hills.
Landed barley, etc., from the boat. There was a good feed for the horses
under the Hampton Range, about a mile and a half distant.
_July 11th._ Osborn busy with the shoeing. Went with Billy to Wilson's
Bluff, and saw the boundary-post between South and Western Australia,
placed by Lieutenant Douglas.
_July 12th._ Erected the flagstaff with the Union Jack flying, and
nailed a copperplate to the staff, with the following engraved on it:
WESTERN AUSTRALIA. ERECTED BY J. FORREST,
JULY 12TH, 1870.
_July 17th._ Was obliged to get up twice to bring back the horses, and
at 4 o'clock made a start. The horses were in a very exhausted state;
some having difficulty to keep up. About noon I could descry the land
turning to the southward, and saw, with great pleasure, we were fast
approaching the Head of the Great Australian Bight. Reached the
sand-patches at the extreme head of the Bight just as the sun was
setting, and found abundance of water by digging two feet deep in the
sand. Gave the horses as much as I considered safe for them to have at
one time. I have never seen horses in such a state before and hope never
to do so again. The horses, which four days ago were strong and in good
condition, now appeared only skeletons, eyes sunk, nostrils dilated, and
thoroughly exhausted. Since leaving Eucla to getting water at this spot,
a period of nearly ninety hours, they had only been allowed one gallon
of water each, which was given them from our water-drums. It is
wonderful how well they performed this journey; had they not started in
good condition they never could have done it. We all felt very tired.
During the last sixty hours I have only had about five hours' sleep, and
have been continually in a state of anxiety--besides which, all have had
to walk a great deal.
_July 18th._ This is a great day in my journal and journey. After
collecting the horses we followed along the beach half a mile, when I
struck N. for Peelunabie Well, and at half a mile struck a cart track
from Fowler's Bay to Peelunabie. After following it one mile and a
quarter, came to the well, and old sheep yards, and camped. Found better
water in the sand-hills than in the well. There is a board nailed on a
pole directing to the best water, with the following engraved on it: "G.
Mackie, April 5th, 1865, water--120 yards." Upon sighting the road this
morning, which I had told them we should do, a loud and continued
hurrahing came from all the party, who were overjoyed to find signs of
civilization again; while Billy, who was in advance with me, and whom I
had told to look out, as he would see a road directly, which he
immediately did, began giving me great praise for bringing them safely
through a long journey. I certainly felt very pleased and relieved from
anxiety, and, on reviewing the long line of march we had performed
through an uncivilized country, was very sensible of that protecting
Providence which had guided us safely through the undertaking.
Before I conclude I have the pleasing duty to record my entire
appreciation of every member of the party. I need not particularize as
one and all had the interest and welfare of the expedition at heart, and
on no occasion uttered a single murmur. Finally, sir, my best and most
sincere thanks are due to His Excellency Governor Weld for the very
efficient manner in which the expedition was equipped. It is chiefly
owing to the great zeal and desire of His Excellency that I should have
everything necessary, that the success of the enterprise is
attributable.
I have, etc.
JOHN FORREST, Leader of Expedition.
The Hon. F.P. Barlee, Esq., Colonial Secretary, W.A.
FROM WEST TO EAST. II. THE INTERIOR
+Source.+--Explorations in Australia (John Forrest, 1875), pp. 149-162,
188, 201, 257, 261
Four years after his successful journey along the Bight, Forrest
determined to explore the interior of Western Australia, and in so
doing added greatly to the knowledge of that somewhat neglected
State.
The success which had attended my previous expeditions, and the great
encouragement received from the Government and public of each colony,
made me wish to undertake another journey for the purpose of
ascertaining whether a route from Western Australia to the advanced
settlements of the Southern colony was practicable. I also hoped to
contribute, if possible, towards the solution of the problem, What is
the nature of the Interior? My first journey, when I succeeded in
penetrating for about 600 miles into the unknown desert of Central
Australia, had convinced me that, although there might, and doubtless
would, be considerable difficulties to be encountered, there were no
insuperable obstacles, except a probable failure in the supply of water.
That certainly was the most formidable of all the difficulties that
would no doubt have to be encountered; but on the previous journey the
scarcity of water had been endured, not without privation and suffering,
but without any very serious result.
Stuart's great feat of crossing the continent from south to north had
been followed by other successful efforts in the same direction. Another
result was the establishing a line of telegraph from Adelaide to Port
Darwin. This might, therefore, be considered the eastern boundary of the
unknown districts, and, moreover, was the point of departure for the
South Australian expeditions in a westerly direction. It was also the
limit I desired to reach, and reaching it, I should achieve the object I
had so much at heart.
On the 18th of March, 1874, the expedition quitted Perth. The 19th was
Sunday, and, according to practice, we rested. Every Sunday throughout
the journey I read Divine Service, and, except making the daily
observations, only work absolutely necessary was done. Whenever
possible, we rested on Sunday, taking, if we could, a pigeon, a parrot,
or other such game as might come in our way as special fare. Sunday's
dinner was an institution for which, even in those inhospitable wilds,
we had a great respect.
_June 13th._ About one o'clock Pierre saw a flock of emus coming to
water, and went off to get a shot. Kennedy followed with the rifle. I
climbed up on a small tree to watch them. I was surprised to hear
natives' voices, and, looking towards the hills, I saw from forty to
sixty natives running towards the camp, all plumed up and armed with
spears and shields. I was cool, and told Sweeny to bring out the
revolvers; descended from the tree and got my gun, and coo-ed to Pierre
and Kennedy, who came running. By this time they were within sixty
yards, and halted. One advanced to meet me, and stood twenty yards off:
I made friendly signs; he did not appear very hostile. All at once, one
from behind (probably a chief) came rushing forward, and made many
feints to throw spears. He went through many manoeuvres, and gave a
signal, when the whole number made a rush towards us, yelling and
shouting, with their spears shipped. When within thirty yards, I gave
the word to fire; we all fired as one man, only one report being heard.
I think the natives got a few shots, but they all ran up the hill and
there stood talking and haranguing and appearing very angry. We
re-loaded our guns, and got everything ready for a second attack, which
I was sure they would make. We were not long left in suspense. They all
descended from the hill and came on slowly towards us. When they were
about 150 yards off I fired my rifle, and we saw one of them fall, but
he got up again and was assisted away. On examining the spot we found
the ball had cut in two the two spears he was carrying; he also dropped
his wommera, which was covered with blood. We could follow the
blood-drops a long way over the stones. I am afraid he got a severe
wound. My brother and Windich being away we were short-handed. The
natives seem determined to take our lives and, therefore, I shall not
hesitate to fire on them should they attack us again. I thus decide, and
write in all humility, considering it a necessity, as the only way of
saving our lives. I write this at 4 p.m., just after the occurrence, so
that, should anything happen to us, my brother will know how and when it
occurred. 5 p.m.--The natives appear to have made off. We intend
sleeping in the thicket close to camp, and keeping a strict watch, so as
to be ready for them should they return to the attack this evening. At
7.30 my brother and Windich returned, and were surprised to hear of our
adventure. They had been over fifty miles from camp E.S.E., and had
passed over some good feeding country, but had not found a drop of
water. They and their horses had been over thirty hours without water.
_June 14th, Sunday._ The natives did not return to the attack last
night. In looking round camp we found the traces of blood where one of
the natives had been lying down. This must have been the foremost man,
who was in the act of throwing his spear, and who urged the others on.
Two therefore, at least, are wounded, and will have cause to remember
the time they made their murderous attack upon us. We worked all day
putting up a stone hut, ten by nine feet, and seven feet high, thatched
with boughs. We finished it; it will make us safe at night. Being a very
fair hut, it will be a great source of defence. Barometer 28.09;
thermometer 68° at 5 p.m. Hope to have rain, as without it we cannot
proceed.
_July 3rd._ Soon after starting, found a little water in a gully and
gave our horses a drink. Ascended a spur of the range and had a good
view ahead, and was very pleased with the prospect. Steering N.E.
towards a large range about fifteen miles off, we found a great deal of
spinnifex, although the country generally was thickly wooded. I rode
Mission, who went along pretty well for about twelve miles, when
Williams gave in again, and Mission soon did the same. For the next six
miles to the range we had awful work, but managed with leading and
driving to reach the range; spinnifex all the way and also on the top of
it. I was very nearly knocked up myself, but ascended the range and had
a very extensive view. Far to the N. and E. the horizon was as level and
uniform as that of the sea; apparently spinnifex everywhere; no hills or
ranges could be seen for a distance of quite thirty miles.
The prospect was very cheerless and disheartening. Windich went on the
only horse not knocked up in order to find water for the horses. I
followed after his tracks, leading the two poor done-up horses. With
difficulty I could get them to walk. Over, and through the rough range I
managed to pull them along and found sufficient water to give them a
good drink, and camped on a small patch of rough grass in one of the
gorges. Spinnifex everywhere; it is a most fearful country. We cannot
proceed farther in this direction, and must return and meet the party,
which I hope to do to-morrow night. We can only crawl along having to
walk and lead the horses, or at least drag them. The party have been
following us, only getting a little water from gullies, and there is
very little to fall back on for over fifty miles. I will leave what I
intend doing until I meet them. I am nearly knocked up again to-night;
my boots have hurt my feet, but I am not yet disheartened.
[Forrest stayed in the Interior for nearly three more months.]
_Sept. 26th._ Got off early and followed the river (Hamilton) about two
miles when it took a bend to the north, and as it was rather boggy near
it, we left it, and steered about east and E.N.E. for about twenty miles
over most miserable country without any grass. We camped on a small
gully with a little water in it, and some old dry grass in a flat. The
horses were very tired, not having had anything to eat for the last two
or three days; and some showed signs of giving in; in fact, all weak and
knocked up, and we had to handle them very carefully. For the first
thirteen miles we passed many clay-pans full of water--water nearly
everywhere--after which there was very little; and the rain does not
appear to have been heavy to the east. The river is about a mile and a
half north of us, and we have not seen it for some miles. Latitude 27°
9' south. Hope to reach the telegraph line to-morrow.
_Sept. 27th, Sunday._ Continuing E.N.E. for two miles, came to the
Alberga, and following along its right bank, over many clay-pans with
water, about east for twelve miles, and then E.N.E. for three miles, and
reached the telegraph line, between Adelaide and Port Darwin, and
camped. Long and continued cheers came from our little band as they
beheld at last the goal to which we have been travelling for so long. I
felt rejoiced and relieved from anxiety; and on reflecting on the long
line of travel we had performed through an unknown country, almost a
wilderness, felt very thankful to that good Providence that had guarded
and guided us so safely through it. The telegraph line is most
substantially put up and well wired, and is very creditable at this
spot; large poles of bush timber, often rather crooked, and iron ones
here and there. I now gave up keeping watch, having kept it regularly
for the last six months. Marked a tree F. 104, being 104th camp from
Geraldton.