IRKUTSK.
Unpleasant experiences at hotel—Hospitality of Mr. Charles
Lee—First impressions of the city.
[Illustration: IRKUTSK.]
I was much disappointed to find, on reaching the principal hotel, the
_Moskovskaia Podvorié_, that its glories, of which I had heard so much,
were things of the past, and that as a hotel it no longer existed. True,
the imposing three-storied building still remained, but under a new
designation, for it is now the head-quarters of the Irkutsk military
staff, and is known as the Etat Major of the city. A few _chambres
meublées_ in the upper stories are all that remain of what was, two
years ago, the best hotel in Siberia. I afterwards learnt that its
failure was owing to its having been got up on far too grand a scale
for the place, and that its promoters had lost a “pot of money” over it
while it was open. Of course there were many other hotels, so I left the
matter in the hands of the yemschik, for my foot was so painful that I
felt absolutely indifferent as to where or how I was lodged, so long as
I could get out of the sledge and lie down quietly somewhere. But it was
evidently the height of the season in Irkutsk and the city crammed, for
everywhere I was told they were “full.” At last, however, after a lot of
driving about, I found a place where they had one room just vacant. It
was a really smart and imposing-looking hotel from outside, and quite a
“find,” as I imagined—till I got inside the building, when I found myself
in one of the dirtiest places of its kind I had yet seen in Siberia. The
contrast between the exterior and the interior was simply startling.
Much, however, as I was disgusted with it, I was so sick of hunting about
for lodgings that I determined to put up with it for a short time; at any
rate, till my foot was better. With the help of Matwieff I therefore made
myself as comfortable as I could on two chairs (for I did not like the
look of the sofa), and composed myself for “forty winks” whilst waiting
for the “something to eat” which I had ordered, for the accident to my
foot had not interfered with my appetite. But I found it impossible to
have a nap, on account of certain strange noises round the room. At first
I could not make out what they were occasioned by, but I soon discovered
after a slight inspection. The wall-paper, which was stretched over a
wooden foundation, did not touch the wood everywhere, and the curious
noise was produced by myriads of blackbeetles, cockroaches, and other
vermin running up and down the wall and in and out of holes they had
eaten in the paper. This cheerful discovery decided me at once to clear
out of the place, and chance finding something better elsewhere.
[Illustration: THE MOSKOVSKAIA PODVORIÉ, IRKUTSK.
[_To face p. 180._]
Suddenly an idea occurred to me. I had a letter of introduction to a Mr.
Charles Lee, an English engineer living in Irkutsk, a brother of the
unfortunate man who lost his life on our way up the Yenisei, so I sent
this letter to him, with a note telling him of my accident, and asking
if he could recommend me some other hotel to go to. My good luck had
not quite deserted me, for in a few minutes came back a message saying
he would himself be round to see me directly, and shortly after he
arrived. On seeing my helpless condition, this good Samaritan insisted
on my immediately leaving the hotel and going to stay at his house, to
be nursed till my foot was well; and, so as to ensure my not refusing,
he gave orders for my luggage to be forthwith removed. In a very short
time I was in a snug room, surrounded by every comfort; so, although the
doctor said I should have to remain indoors and not move for a week, I
felt that I should be in luck’s way if my lines were always cast in such
pleasant places. Under kind nursing my injured ankle got rapidly well, so
much so that I was soon able to get about again, and with the assistance,
though much against the wish, of my hospitable friend, find convenient
lodgings in the city. So it was a further proof of “all’s well that end’s
well.”
Containing forty thousand inhabitants, the capital of Eastern Siberia
covers an enormous extent of ground, being nearly two miles in each
direction—the principal street, or Bolshoi Oulitza, itself over a mile
in length. My first impressions on walking up this noble thoroughfare
were very different indeed from what I had anticipated, for it was hard
to realize how near one was to the Chinese frontier, and how far from
a railway; the whole scene was one of absolutely European character,
and reminded me not a little of many capitals I have visited. It was
quite a relief, after the desolate look of the streets at Krasnoiarsk
and Yeniseisk, owing to the apparent absence of shops, to see here
the handsome buildings with large plate-glass windows, in which were
displayed every description of European goods; and my surprise was the
more natural, for, from what I had read, I was led to believe that
nowhere in Siberia would I find the streets enlivened by the shop
displays which give so much life and character to a place. But what
astonished me most pleasantly in this far-away Siberian city was to see
the fair sex dressed in the very latest of Parisian fashions, for I saw
costumes in the Bolshoi Oulitza which would have looked smart even in
Bond Street or the Rue de la Paix, and, as added to which I don’t think I
was ever in a place which for its size could boast of more pretty faces,
the effect on a bright sunny afternoon may be imagined.
Irkutsk is not nearly so cold a place as Krasnoiarsk, for, according to
Keane, the mean winter temperature is _only_ minus 4 deg. Fahr., and the
summer temperature equal to that of Melbourne, and considerably higher
than that of Paris. Of course I was particularly fortunate in visiting
Irkutsk in the very height of the “season,” for, as is the case all over
Siberia, and, I believe, Russia also, the time to see “life” is during
the winter months, when the rich and fashionable classes are in town, and
all sorts of festivities are going on.
[Illustration: AN IRKUTSK BEAUTY.]
[Illustration: ENTRANCE HALL OF MILLIONAIRE GOLD-MINE OWNER’S HOUSE,
IRKUTSK.]
As at Krasnoiarsk, I found “society” here absolutely European in its
character, for most of the wealthiest people annually pass several months
in the West, so are quite _au courant_ with all that is going on in the
world of pleasure, and manage to convey their impressions back to their
Siberian palaces in the shape of luxuries and extravagances of every
sort. Amongst the many hospitalities I was shown I had the pleasure
of dining one evening at the house of Mr. Soukatchoff, the Mayor of
Irkutsk, one of the richest and most important men of the city. His
magnificent house, with its large picture-gallery (in which are over two
hundred and fifty examples of the best known of continental artists), its
immense library, and its priceless collection of curiosities from every
part of the world, made my visit to this gentleman a sort of “artistic
treat”—a treat which was in no way spoilt by the very excellent dinner
he gave us, and the interesting people I was introduced to, many of whom
spoke French and German fluently, and some of them English also. Here, as
elsewhere in Siberia, on every occasion when I have dined out, either in
Irkutsk, Krasnoiarsk, or Yeniseisk, the general “tone” and arrangements
were delightful. I was also fortunate enough to be present at a big
ball given by the millionaire, M. de Sievers, and I doubt very much
if the most brilliant “crush” of a London season could present a more
magnificent spectacle than did this ball—for the governor-general, with
his party, and the head-quarters staff officers, were present in full
uniform, blazing with orders and decorations, and the rooms were crowded
with as smart a crowd of people as the most fastidious London dancing
man could have desired. The “floor” and the music were both excellent.
In the gallery of the ball-room was stationed the regimental band,
while, by the fountain in the huge winter-garden, which was beautifully
illuminated with quaint Chinese lanterns, the town string-band played all
the evening. It was like being in dreamland to wander, with some pretty
girl on one’s arm, through the exotic shrubberies, and my thoughts were
carried far away from cold Siberia, to the sunny south of France and to
gay Monte Carlo. I should have been sorry to have missed seeing this
dance, for it did more towards giving me an insight into Irkutsk society
than all else.
[Illustration: STREET SCENE, IRKUTSK.]
Since the disastrous fire in Irkutsk in 1879, when almost the entire
town was burnt to the ground, it has been forbidden to build any but
stone or brick houses in the principal streets, so the result is
broad thoroughfares, with lofty buildings of imposing architectural
pretensions on either side, which would not disgrace any Western capital.
For its size, I do not think there is any city in the world which
can boast of more public institutions than Irkutsk. On first driving
through the city this was the characteristic feature which struck me,
for everywhere, almost in every street, was some important public
edifice, many of the institutions being, I was informed, the result of
private munificence. I had often read of these monuments as erected by
Siberian millionaires more to satisfy their personal vanity and love of
ostentation than out of any true charitable or public spirit—rather as
a means of proving to the vulgar horde what wealth they really possess.
Whether or no this is the case, of course it is impossible to say; but,
at any rate, the result is a conglomeration of public institutions which,
considering the size of the place, could not be rivalled anywhere,
I fancy. A brief list of them, in proof of my statement, may be of
interest, as giving an idea of the importance of this distant Siberian
city.
Of public schools there are no less than nineteen, all under the
supervision of a Government Educational Committee.
Then there are six hospitals—namely, three town hospitals; a foundling
hospital, on the usual Russian system; a military hospital, and a
madhouse.
Of “homes” for children there are at least four; three asylums for
the aged and infirm; a monastery for men and one for women; a convict
and a civil prison; a geographical institute; a large observatory
(with an English telescope); and two clubs—one military, the other for
merchants—making a total of over forty important public institutions for
a population of less than forty thousand.
Of the handsome churches, of which there are no less than twenty-two,
besides two cathedrals, many were also presented to this lucky city
by its millionaire inhabitants, who, when they decide to spend their
money, do so in no parsimonious manner, as is evidenced by the result.
The monastery of St. Innocent, a short distance from the city, is as
beautiful a specimen of Italian architecture as one could see anywhere,
and cost its donors, several rich merchants, I don’t know how many
million roubles. It is not only in Irkutsk, however, that one finds such
proofs of great private munificence, for I learn that the magnificent
cathedral of Krasnoiarsk was presented to the city by a rich man who made
his millions out of vodka!
Irkutsk, being the seat of the Government of Eastern Siberia (a district
equal in size to the half of Europe), is naturally well stocked with
officials of all sorts and grades, the governor-general and civil
governor having each no less than three _remplaçants_. Considering what
an important centre Irkutsk is, I was surprised to learn that it was only
garrisoned by one battalion of 1000 soldiers and one _sotnia_ (nominally
100, but actually 150) of Cossacks; so the energies of the military
governor are not overtaxed. The Chinese frontier district comes within
the government of the Trans-Baikal and Amour provinces.
[Illustration: A COSSACK.
[_To face p. 190._]
[Illustration: AN IRKUTSK POLICEMAN.
[_To face p. 191._]
The police arrangements struck me as being particularly good. In the
daytime mounted men are continually patrolling the streets to prevent
any congestion of the traffic—a very necessary measure, considering the
reckless manner in which Siberians drive. At night there is a curious and
truly Eastern custom still in vogue in this important city; watchmen
parade the streets, continually agitating a peculiar sort of knocker
which emits a sound not unlike that of the rattle our policemen used
to be provided with. What is the reason of adhering to this primitive
custom I have been unable to learn. Perhaps Siberian thieves are known
to be nervous, and this arrangement frightens them, and deters them from
contemplated misdeeds. Certainly the watchmen themselves would not have
that effect on anything but a very old woman or a young child, for they
were usually aged and decrepit fellows, who looked as though they ought
to have been at home and in bed instead of out all night. Fortunately the
Irkutsk streets are safe enough during the dark hours.
[Illustration: THE MUSEUM, IRKUTSK.]