WINTERING BEES.
This is a subject, of course, of paramount importance to the apiarist,
as this is the rock on which some of even the most successful have
recently split. Yet I come fearlessly to consider this question,
as from all the multitude of disasters I see no occasion for
discouragement. If the problem of successful wintering has not been
solved already, it surely will be, and that speedily. So important
an interest was never yet vanquished by misfortune, and there is
no reason to think that history is now going to be reversed. Even
the worst aspect of the case--in favor of which I think, though in
opposition to such excellent apiarists as Marvin, Heddon, etc., that
there is no proof, and but few suggestions even--that these calamities
are the effects of an epidemic, would be all powerless to dishearten
men trained to reason from effect to cause. Even an epidemic--which
would by no means skip by the largest, finest apiaries, owned and
controlled by the wisest, most careful, and most thoughtful, as has
been the case in the late "winters of our discontent," nor only choose
winters of excessive cold, or following great drouth and absence of
honey secretion in which to work its havoc--would surely yield to man's
invention.
THE CAUSE OF DISASTROUS WINTERING.
Epidemic, then, being set aside as no factor in the solution, to what
shall we ascribe such wide-spread disasters? I fully believe, and
to no branch of this subject have I given more thought, study, and
observation, that all the losses may be traced either to unwholesome
food, failure in late breeding of the previous year, extremes of
temperature, or to protracted cold with excessive dampness. I know from
actual and wide-spread observation, that the severe loss of 1870 and
1871 was attended in this part of Michigan with unsuitable honey in the
hive. The previous autumn was unprecedentedly dry. Flowers were rare,
and storing was largely from insect secretion, and consequently the
stores were unwholesome. I tasted of honey from many hives only to find
it most nauseating. I fully believe that had the honey been thoroughly
extracted the previous autumn, and the bees fed good honey or sugar, no
loss would have been experienced. At least it is significant that all
who did so, escaped, even where their neighbors all failed. Nor less
so the fact that when I discovered eight of my twelve colonies dead,
and four more just alive, I cleaned the remaining ones all out, and to
one no worse nor better than the others I gave good capped honey stored
early the previous summer, while the others were left with their old
stores, that one lived and gave the best record I have ever known, the
succeeding season, while all the others died.
Again, suppose that after the basswood season in July, there is no
storing of honey, either from want of space, or from lack of bloom. In
this case brood-rearing ceases. Yet if the weather is dry and warm,
as of course it will be in August and September, the bees continue to
wander about, death comes apace, and by autumn the bees are reduced
in numbers, old in days, and illy prepared to brave the winter and
perform the duties of spring. I fully believe that if all the colonies
of our State and country had been kept breeding by proper use of the
extractor, and feeding, even till into October, we should have had a
different record, especially as to spring dwindling, and consequent
death. In the autumn of 1872 I kept my bees breeding till the first of
October. The following winter I had no loss, while my neighbors lost
all of their bees.
Extremes of heat and cold are also detrimental to the bees. If the
temperature of the hive becomes too high the bees become restless, fat
more than they ought, and if confined to their hives are distended with
their fœces, become diseased, besmear their comb and hives, and die. If
when they become thus disturbed, they could have a purifying flight,
all would be well.
Again, if the temperature becomes extremely low, the bees to keep up
the animal heat must take more food; they are uneasy, exhale much
moisture, which may settle and freeze on the outer combs about the
cluster, preventing the bees from getting the needed food, and thus in
this case both dysentery and starvation confront the bees. That able
and far-seeing apiarist the lamented M. Quinby, was one of the first to
discover this fact; and here as elsewhere gave advice that if heeded,
would have saved great loss and sore disappointment.
I have little doubt, in fact I know from actual investigation, that in
the past severe winters, those bees which under confinement have been
subject to severe extremes, are the ones that have invariably perished.
Had the bees been kept in a uniform temperature ranging from 35° to 45°
F., the record would have been materially changed.
Excessive moisture, too, especially in cases of protracted cold, is
always to be avoided. Bees, like all other animals, are constantly
giving off moisture, which of course will be accelerated if the bees
become disturbed, and are thus led to consume more food. This moisture
not only acts as explained above, but also induces fungous growths. The
mouldy comb is not wholesome, though it may never cause death. Hence
another necessity of sufficient warmth to drive this moisture from
the hive and some means to absorb it without opening the hive above
and permitting a current, which will disturb the bees, and cause the
greater consumption of honey.
THE REQUISITE TO SAFE WINTERING--GOOD FOOD.
To winter safely, then, demands that the bees have thirty pounds
by weight not guess--I have known three cases when guessing meant
starvation--of good capped honey (coffee A sugar is just as good). If
desired this may be fed as previously explained, which should be done
so early that all will be capped during the warm days of October. Let
us be wary how we trust even crystallized glucose. It might be safe
during a warm winter, when the bees would have frequent flights, yet
prove disastrous in a cold winter. Let us use it cautiously till its
merits are assured. I prefer, too, that some of the comb in the centre
of the hive has empty cells, to give a better chance to cluster, and
that all the combs have a small hole through the centre, that the bees
may pass freely through. This hole may simply be cut with a knife, or
a tin tube the size of one's finger may be driven through the comb,
and left in if desired, in which case the comb should be pushed out
of the tube, and the tube be no longer than the comb is thick. This
perforatory work I always do early in October, when I extract all
uncapped honey, take out all frames after I have given them the 30
lbs., _by weight_, of honey, confine the space with a division-board,
cover with the quilt and chaff, and then leave undisturbed till the
cold of November calls for further care.
SECURE LATE BREEDING.
Keep the bees breeding till the first of October. Except in years of
excessive drouth, this will occur in many parts of Michigan without
extra care. Failure may result from the presence of worthless queens.
Any queens which seem not to be prolific should be superseded whenever
the fact becomes evident. _I regard this as most important._ Few know
how much is lost by tolerating feeble, impotent queens in the apiary,
whose ability can only keep the colonies alive. Never keep such queens
about. Here, then, is another reason for always keeping extra queens
on hand. Even with excellent queens, a failure in the honey yield
may cause breeding to cease. In such cases, we have only to feed as
directed under the head of feeding.
TO SECURE AND MAINTAIN THE PROPER TEMPERATURE.
We ought also to provide against extremes of temperature. It is
desirable to keep the temperature between 35° and 50° F. through the
entire winter, from November to April. If no cellar or house is at
hand, this maybe accomplished as follows: Some pleasant dry day in late
October or early November, raise the stand and place straw beneath;
then surround the hive with a box a foot outside the hive, with movable
top and open on the east; or else have a long wooden tube, opposite
the entrance, to permit flight. This tube should be six or eight
inches square, to permit easy examination in winter. The same end may
be gained by driving stakes and putting boards around. When we crowd
between the box and the hive either straw, chaff, or shavings. After
placing a good thickness of straw above the hive, lay on the cover
of the box, or cover with boards. This preserves against changes of
temperature during the winter, and also permits the bees to fly if it
becomes necessary from a protracted period of warm winter weather. I
have thus kept all my bees safely during two of the disastrous winters.
As there is at present no plan of wintering, which promises to serve
so well for all our apiarists, in view of its cheapness, ease,
convenience, and universal efficiency, I will describe in detail the
box now in use at the College, which costs only one dollar per hive,
and which is convenient to store away in summer.
[Illustration: Fig. 101.]
BOX FOR PACKING.
The sides of this (Fig. 101, _a, a_), facing east and west are three
and a half feet long, two feet high on the south end, and two and a
half feet on the north. They are in one piece, which is secured by
nailing the boards which form them to cleats, which are one inch from
the ends. The north end (Fig. 101, _b_) is three feet by two and a
half feet, the south (Fig. 101, _b_), three feet by two, and made the
same as are the sides. The slanting top of the sides (Fig. 101, _a,
a_) is made by using for the upper board, the strip formed by sawing
diagonally from corner to corner a board six inches wide and three
feet long. The cover (Fig. 101, _g_), which is removed in the figure,
is large enough to cover the top and project one inch at both ends. It
should be battened, and held in one piece by cleats (Fig. 101, _h_)
four inches wide, nailed on to the ends. These will drop over the ends
of the box, and thus hold the cover in place, and prevent rain and snow
from driving in. When in place this slanting cover permits the rain
to run off easily, and will dry quickly after a storm. By a single
nail at each corner the four sides may be tacked together about the
hives, when they can be packed in with straw (Fig. 101), which should
be carefully done if the day is cold, so as not to disquiet the bees.
At the centre and bottom of the east side (Fig. 101, _c_), cut out a
square eight inches each way, and between this and the hive place a
bottomless tube (the top of this tube is represented as removed in
figure to show entrance to hive), before putting around the straw and
adding the cover. This box should be put in place before the bleak
cold days of November, and retained in position till the stormy winds
of April are passed by. This permits the bees to fly when very warm
weather comes in winter or spring, and requires no attention from the
apiarist. By placing two or three hives close together in autumn--_yet
never move the colonies more than three or four feet_ at any one time,
as such removals involve the loss of many bees--one box may be made to
cover all, and at less expense. Late in April these may be removed and
packed away, and the straw carried away, or removed a short distance
and burned.
CHAFF HIVES.
Messrs. Townley, Butler, Root, and others, prefer chaff hives, which
are simply double-walled hives, with the four or five inch chambers
filled with chaff. The objection to these I take to be: First, Danger
that so limited a space would not answer in severe seasons; Second,
That such cumbrous hives would be inconvenient to handle in summer;
and, Third, A matter of expense. That they would in part supply the
place of shade, is, perhaps, in their favor, while Mr. A. I. Root
thinks they are not expensive.
WINTERING IN CELLAR OR HOUSE.
With large apiaries the above method is expensive, and specialists
may prefer a cellar or special depository, which I think are quite as
safe, though they demand attention and perhaps labor in winter. After
my experience in the winter of 1874 and 1875, losing all my bees by
keeping them in a house with double walls filled in with sawdust, in
which the thermometer indicated a temperature below zero for several
weeks, in which time my strongest colonies literally starved to death
in the manner already described, I hesitate to recommend a house above
ground for Michigan, though with very numerous colonies it might
do. Such a house must, if it answer the purpose, keep an equable
temperature, at least 3° and not more than 10° above freezing, be
perfectly dark, and ventilated with tubes above and below, so arranged
as to be closed or opened at pleasure, and not admit a ray of light.
A cellar in which we are sure of our ability to control the
temperature, needs to be also dry, dark, and quiet, and ventilated as
described above. As already stated, the ventilator to bring air may
well be made of tile, and pass through the earth for some feet and then
open at the bottom of the cellar. If possible, the ventilator that
carries the foul air off should be connected with a stove pipe in a
room above, with its lower end reaching to the bottom of the cellar.
The College apiary cellar is grouted throughout, which makes it more
dry and neat. Of course it should be thoroughly drained.
The colonies should be put into the depository when the hives are dry,
_before cold weather_, and should remain till April; though in January
and March, if there are days that are warm, they should be taken out
and the bees permitted to fly, though not unless they seem uneasy and
soil the entrance to their hives. _Always_ when taken out they should
be placed on their old stands, so that no bees may be lost. Towards
night, when all are quiet, return them to the cellar. I would not
remove bees till towards night, as it is better that they have a good
flight, and then become quiet. When moved out it is _very_ desirable
to brush away all dead bees which is an argument in favor of a movable
bottom-board. In moving the hives, great care should be exercised not
to jar them. It were better if the bees should not know that they were
being moved at all.
That the moisture may be absorbed, I cover the bees with a quilt, made
of coarse factory cloth, enclosing a layer of cotton batting. Above
this I fill in with straw which is packed in so closely that the cover
may be removed without the straw falling out. If desirable the straw
may be cut--or chaff may be used--and may be confined in a bag made of
factory, so that it resembles a pillow. I now use these and like them.
This is not only an excellent absorbent, but preserves the heat, and
may well remain, till the following June.
I have found it advantageous, when preparing my bees for winter, in
October, to contract the chamber by use of a division board. This is
very desirable if wintered out doors, and with frames a foot square is
very easily accomplished. By use of eight frames the space (one cubic
foot) is very compact, and serves to economize the heat, not only in
winter, but in spring. By thus using a division board with only three
frames, I have been very successful in wintering nuclei. We have only
to guard against low temperature.
Perhaps I ought to say that all colonies should be strong in autumn;
but I have said before, never have weak colonies. Yet for fear some
have been negligent. I remark that weak colonies should be united in
preparing for winter. To do this, approximate the colonies each day
four or five feet till they are side by side. Now remove the poorest
queen, then smoke thoroughly, sprinkle both colonies with sweetened
water scented with essence of peppermint, putting a sufficient number
of the best frames and all the bees into one of the hives, and then set
this midway between the position of the hives at the commencement of
the uniting. The bees will unite peaceably, and make a strong colony.
Uniting colonies may pay at other seasons. It may seem rash to some,
yet I fully believe that if the above suggestions are carried out in
full, I may guarantee successful wintering. But if we do lose our
bees--with all our hives, combs and honey, we can buy colonies in the
spring, with a perfect certainty of making 200 or 300 per cent, on
our investment. Even with the worst condition of things, we are still
ahead, in way of profit, of most other vocations.
BURYING BEES.
Another way to winter safely and very economically, is to bury the
bees. If this is practiced the ground should either be sandy or _well
drained_. If we can choose a side-hill it should be done. Beneath the
hives and around them, straw should be placed. I should advise leaving
the entrance well open, yet secure against mice. _The hives should all
be placed beneath the surface_ level of the earth, then form a mound
above them sufficient to preserve against extreme warmth or cold. A
trench about the mound to carry the water off quickly is desirable. In
this arrangement the ground acts as a moderator. Five colonies thus
treated the past winter, (1877-8) lost all told less than one-half gill
of bees. As this method has not been so long tried, as the others, I
would suggest caution. Try it with a few colonies, till you are assured
as to the best arrangement, and of its efficacy. I am inclined to think
that it is next to a good snow-bank, as a winter repository.
SPRING DWINDLING.
As already suggested, this is not to be feared if we keep our bees
breeding till late autumn. It may be further prevented by forbidding
late autumn flights, frequent flights in winter, when the weather is
warm, and too early flying in spring. These may all be curtailed or
prevented by the packing system as described above, as thus prepared
the bees will not feel the warmth, and so will remain quiet in the
hive. Nine colonies which I have packed have been remarkably quiet,
and are in excellent condition this, February 25th, while two others
unpacked have flown day after day, much, I fear, to their injury. I
would leave bees in the packing till near May, and in the cellar or
ground, till early flowers bloom, that we may secure against too rapid
demise of bees in spring.