FEEDING AND FEEDERS.
As already stated, it is only when the worker-bees are storing that
the queen deposits to the full extent of her capability, and that
brood-rearing is at its height. In fact, when storing ceases, general
indolence characterizes the hive. Hence, if we would achieve the
best success, we must keep the workers active, even before gathering
commences, as also in the interims of honey secretion by the flowers;
and to do this we must feed sparingly before the advent of bloom in
the spring, and whenever the neuters are forced to idleness during any
part of the season, by the absence of honey-producing flowers. For a
number of years, I have tried experiments in this direction by feeding
a portion of my colonies early in the season, and in the intervals
of honey-gathering, and always with marked results in favor of the
practice.
Every apiarist, whether novice or veteran, will receive ample reward
by practicing stimulative feeding early in the season; then his hive
at the dawn of the white clover era will be redundant with bees, well
filled with brood, and in just the trim to receive a bountiful harvest
of this most delicious nectar.
Feeding, too, is often necessary to secure sufficient stores for
winter--for no apiarist, worthy the name, will suffer his faithful,
willing subjects to starve, when so little care and expense will
prevent it.
HOW MUCH TO FEED.
If we only wish to stimulate, the amount fed need not be great. A
half pound a day, or even less, will be all that is necessary to
encourage the bees to active preparation for the good time coming. For
information in regard to supplying stores for winter see Chapter XVII.
WHAT TO FEED.
For this purpose I would feed coffee A sugar, reduced to the
consistency of honey, or else extracted honey kept over from the
previous year. The price of the latter will decide which is the
most profitable. Honey, too, that has been drained or forced out of
cappings, etc., is good, and only good to feed. Many advise feeding the
poorer grades of sugar in spring. My own experience makes me question
the policy of ever using such feed for bees. The policy, too, of
feeding glucose I much question. In all feeding, unless extracted honey
is what we are using, we cannot exercise too great care that such feed
is not carried to the surplus boxes. Only let our customers once taste
sugar in their comb-honey, and not only is our own reputation gone, but
the whole fraternity is injured. In case we wish to have our combs in
the sections filled or capped, we must feed extracted honey, which may
often be done with great advantage.
[Illustration: Fig. 54.
_Division-Board Feeder._
Lower part of the face of the can removed, to show float, etc.]
HOW TO FEED.
The requisites of a good feeder are: Cheapness, a form to admit quick
feeding, to permit no loss of heat, and so arranged that we can feed
without in any way disturbing the bees. The feeder (Fig. 54) which I
have used with the best satisfaction, is a modified division-board,
the top-bar of which (Fig. 54, _b_) is two inches wide. From the upper
central portion, beneath the top-bar, a rectangular piece, the size of
an oyster-can, is replaced with an oyster-can (Fig 54, _g_), after the
top of the latter has been removed. A vertical piece of wood (Fig. 54,
_d_) is fitted into the can so as to separate a space about one inch
square, on one side from the balance of the chamber. This piece does
not reach quite to the bottom of the can, there being a one-eighth
inch space beneath. In the top-bar there is an opening (Fig. 54, _e_)
just above the smaller space below. In the larger space is a wooden
float (Fig. 54, _f_) full of holes. On one side, opposite the larger
chamber of the can, a half-inch piece of the top (Fig. 54, _c_) is cut
off, so that the bees can pass between the can and top-bar on to the
float, where they can sip the feed. The feed is turned into the hole
in the top-bar (Fig. 54, _e_), and without touching a bee, passes down
under the vertical strip (Fig. 54, _d_) and raises the float (Fig. 54,
_f_). The can may be tacked to the board at the ends near the top.
Two or three tacks through the can into the vertical piece (Fig. 54,
_d_) will hold the latter firmly in place; or the top-bar may press on
the vertical piece so that it cannot move. Crowding a narrow piece of
woolen cloth between the can and board, and nailing a similar strip
around the beveled edge of the division-board makes all snug.
[Illustration: Fig. 55.
_Shuck's Boss Bee-Feeder._
_Simplicity Bee-Feeder._]
One of our students suggests the name "Perfection" for this feeder.
The feeder is placed at the end of the brood-chamber (page 137), and
the top-bar covered by the quilt. To feed, we have only to fold the
quilt over, when with a tea-pot we pour the feed into the hole in the
top-bar. If a honey-board is used, there must be a hole in this just
above the hole in the division-board feeder. In either case, no bees
can escape, the heat is confined, and our division-board feeder is but
little more expensive than a division-board alone.
Some apiarists prefer a quart tin can with finely perforated cover.
This is filled with liquid, the cover put on, and the whole quickly
inverted and set above a hole in the quilt. Owing to the pressure of
the air, the liquid will not descend so rapidly that the bees cannot
sip it up.
Many other styles of feeders are in use, as the "Simplicity" and
"Boss," but I have yet to see one that in all respects equals the one
figured and described above.
The best time to feed is just at night-fall. In this case the feed will
be carried away before the next day, and the danger to weak colonies
from robbing is not so great.
In feeding during the cold days of April, all should be close above
the bees to economize the heat. In all feeding, care is requisite that
we may not spill the feed about the apiary, as this may, and very
generally will, induce robbing.