HIVES AND BOXES
An early choice among the innumerable hives is of course demanded;
and here let me state with emphasis, _that none of the standard hives
are now covered by patents, so let no one buy rights_. Success by
the skillful apiarist with almost any hive is possible. Yet, without
question, some hives are far superior to others, and for certain uses,
and with certain persons, some hives are far preferable to others,
though all may be meritorious. As a change in hives, after one is once
engaged in apiculture, involves much time, labor and expense, this
becomes an important question, and one worthy earnest consideration by
the prospective apiarist. I shall give it a first place, and a thorough
consideration, in this discussion of practical apiculture.
BOX-HIVES.
I feel free to say that no person who reads, thinks, and studies--and
success in apiculture can be promised to no other--will ever be content
to use the old box-hives. In fact, thought and intelligence, which
imply an eagerness to investigate, are essential elements in the
apiarist's character. And to such an one a box-hive would be valued
just in proportion to the amount of kindling-wood it contained. A very
serious fault with one of our principal bee-books, which otherwise is
mainly excellent in subject matter and treatment, is the fact that it
presumes its readers to be box-hive men. As well make emperors, kings,
and chivalry the basis of good government, in an essay written for
American readers. I shall entirely ignore box-hives in the following
discussions, for I believe no sensible, intelligent apiarists, such
as read books, will tolerate them, and that, supposing they would, it
would be an expensive mistake, which I have no right to encourage, in
fact, am bound to discourage, not only for the benefit of individuals,
but also for the art itself.
To be sure of success, the apiarist must be able to inspect the whole
interior of the hive at his pleasure, must be able to exchange combs
from one hive to another, to regulate the movements of the 'bees:
by destroying queen-cells, by giving or withholding drone-comb,
by extracting the honey, by introducing queens, and by many other
manipulations to be explained, which are only practicable with a
movable-frame hive.
MOVABLE-COMB HIVES.
There are, at present, two types of the movable-comb hive in use among
us, each of which is unquestionably valuable, as each has advocates
among our most intelligent, successful and extensive apiarists. Each,
too, has been superseded by the other, to the satisfaction of the
person making the change. The kind most used consists of a box, in
which hang the frames which hold the combs. The adjacent frames are so
far separated that the combs, which just fill them, shall be the proper
distance apart. In the other kind, the frames are wider than the comb,
and when in position are close together, and of themselves form two
sides of a box. When in use, these frames are surrounded by a second
box, without a bottom, which, with them, rests on a bottom board. Each
of these kinds is represented by various forms, sizes, etc., where the
details are varied to suit the apiarist's notion. Yet, I believe that
all hives in present use, worthy of recommendation, fall within one or
the other of the above named types.
THE LANGSTROTH HIVE.
This (Fig. 29) is the hive most in use among Americans and Britons,
if not among all who practice improved apiculture. It is stated
that the late Major Munn was first to invent this style of hive. He
states (see Bevan, p. 37) that he first used it in 1834. But, as
suggested by Neighbour in his valuable hand-book, the invention was
of no avail to apiarists, as it was either unknown, or else ignored
by practical men. This invention also originated independently with
Rev. L. L. Langstroth, who brought it forth in 1851, so perfect, that
it needed scarce any improvement; and for this gift, as well as his
able researches in apiculture, as given in his invaluable book, "The
Honey-Bee," he has conferred a benefit upon our art which cannot be
over-estimated, and for which we, as apiarists, cannot be too grateful.
It was his book--one of my old teachers, for which I have no word of
chiding--that led me to some of the most delightful investigations of
my life. It was his invention--the Langstroth hive--that enabled me
to make those investigations. For one, I shall always revere the name
of Langstroth, as a great leader in scientific apiculture, both in
America and throughout the world. His name must ever stand beside that
of Dzierzon and the elder Huber. Surely this hive, which left the hands
of the great master in so perfect a form, that even the details remain
unchanged by many of our first bee-keepers, should ever bear his name.
Thus, though I prefer and use the size of frame first used, I believe,
by Mr. Gallup, still I use the Langstroth hive. (See Appendix, page
287).
[Illustration: Fig. 29.]
CHARACTER OF THE HIVE.
The main feature of the hive should be simplicity, which, would exclude
doors, drawers, and traps of all kinds. The body should be made of
good pine or white-wood lumber, one inch thick, thoroughly seasoned,
and planed on both sides. It should be simply a plain box (Fig. 30),
without top or bottom, and of a size and form to suit the apiarist.
The size will depend upon our purpose. If we desire no comb-honey, or
desire comb-honey in frames, the hive may contain 4,000 cubic inches.
If we desire honey in boxes, it should not contain over 2,000, and may
be even smaller. If the hive is to be a two-story one--that is, one
hive above a similar hive below (Fig. 29)--I prefer that it should
be eighteen inches long, twelve inches wide, and twelve inches deep,
inside measure. If simply small frames or boxes are to be used above,
I would have the hive at least two feet long. A three-fourths inch
rabbet should be cut from the top of the sides or ends as the apiarist
prefers, on the inside (Fig. 30, _c_).
[Illustration: Fig. 30]
The rabbet may equal a little more than one-half the thickness of
the board. Heavy tin strips (Fig. 33), three-fourths of an inch
wide, should be tacked to the side below the rabbet, so as to reach
one-fourth of an inch above the shoulder. These are to bear the frames,
and are convenient, as they prevent the frames from becoming glued to
the hive. We are thus able to loosen the frames without jarring the
bees. I would not have hives without such tin rabbets, though some
apiarists, among whom is Mr. James Heddon, of this State, whose rank
as a successful apiarist is very high, do not like them. The objection
to them is cost, and liability of the frames to move when the hive is
moved. But with their use we are not compelled to pry the frames loose,
and are not so likely to irritate the bees, while making an examination
of the contents of the hive, which arguments are conclusive with me.
Any one who is not a skilled mechanic, especially if he has not a
buzz-saw, had better join the sides of his hives after the style of
making common dry-goods boxes (Fig. 30). In this case, the sides not
rabbeted should project by, else the corners will have to be stopped up
where they were rabbeted.
[Illustration: Fig. 31.
_Bevel-Gauge._]
The mechanic may prefer to bevel the ends of the boards, and unite
them by a miter-joint (Fig. 33). This looks a little better, otherwise
is not superior to the other method. It is difficult to form accurate
joints--_and as everything about the hive should be_ ACCURATE _and_
UNIFORM--this style is not to be recommended to the general apiarist.
To miter with a hand-saw unless one is very skillful, requires a
perfect miter-box, and, even then, much care is required to secure
perfect joints. With a buzz-saw this is easier. We have only to make a
carrier as follows: Take two boards (Fig. 31. _a, b_), each one foot
in length, and dove-tail them together, as though with two others
you meant to make a square box. Be sure that they form a perfect
right-angle. Then bevel the ends opposite the angle, and unite these
with a third board (Fig. 31, c), firmly nailed to the others. We
thus have a triangular pyramid. Through one of the shorter faces make
longitudinal slits (Fig. 31, _d_), so that this can be bolted firmly
to the saw-table. In use, the longer face will reach the saw, and from
thence will slant up and back. Along the back edge of this a narrow
board (Fig. 31, _e_) should be nailed, which will project an inch above
it. This will keep the board to be beveled in line with the carrier,
and will retain the right angles. Of course the boards for the hive
must be perfect rectangles, and of just the right length and width,
before the bevels are cut.
Such a carrier (Fig. 31) I ordered for my Barnes' saw, from a
cabinet-maker. It was made of hard wood, all three joints dove-tailed,
and nicely finished, at a cost of $1.50.
In sawing the ends and sides of the hive, whether by hand or with a
buzz-saw, use should be made of a guide, so that _perfect uniformity_
will be secured.
THE BOTTOM BOARD.
For a bottom board or stand (Fig. 32), we should have a single one-inch
board (Fig. 32, _b_) just as wide as the hive, and four inches longer,
if the bees are to enter at the end of the hive, and as long, and four
inches wider, if the bees are to enter at the side. This is nailed
to two pieces of two by four, or two by two scantling (Fig. 32, _a,
a_). Thus the hive rests two or four inches from the ground. These
scantlings should extend at one end eight inches beyond the board, and
these projections be beveled from the edge of the board, to the lower
outer corner of the scantling. Upon these beveled edges nail a board
(Fig. 32, _d_), which shall reach from the edge of the bottom board to
the ground. We thus have the alighting-board, whose upper edge should
be beveled, so as to fit closely to the bottom board. If the hives are
to be carried into a cellar to winter, this alighting-board (Fig. 31,
_d_) had better be separate, otherwise it is more convenient to have it
attached. It may be made separate at first, or may be easily separated
by sawing off the beveled portion of the scantlings.
Should the apiarist desire his bees to enter at the side of the hive,
the scantling (Fig. 32, _a, a_) should run the other way, and the
alighting-board (Fig. 32, _d_) should be longer, and changed to the
side. I have tried both, and see no difference, so the matter may be
controlled by the taste of the apiarist.
[Illustration: Fig. 32.]
For an opening to the hive (Fig. 32, _c_), I would bevel the middle of
the edge of the bottom board, next to the inclined board. At the edge,
this bevel should be three-quarters of an inch deep and four inches
wide. It may decrease in both width and depth as it runs back, till
at a distance of four inches, it is one-half an inch wide and five
thirty-seconds of an inch deep. This may terminate the opening, though
the shoulder at the end may be beveled off, if desired.
With this bottom board the bees are near the ground, and with the
slanting board in front, even the most tired and heavily-laden will
not fail to gain the hive, as they come in with their load of stores.
In spring, too, many bees are saved, as they come in on windy days,
by low hives and an alighting-board. _No hive should be more than
four inches from the ground_, and no hive should be without the
slanting alighting-board. With this opening, too, the entrance can be
contracted in case of robbing, or entirely closed when desired, by
simply moving the hive back.
Some apiarists cut an opening in the side of the hive, and regulate
the size by tin slides or triangular blocks (Fig. 29); others form an
opening by sliding the hive forward beyond the bottom board--which I
would do with the above in hot weather when storing was very rapid--but
for simplicity, cheapness and convenience, I have yet to see an opening
superior to the above. I think, too, I am a competent judge, as I have
at least a half-dozen styles in present use.
I strongly urge, too, that only this one opening be used. Auger holes
about the hive, and entrances on two sides, are worse than useless. By
enlarging this opening, we secure ample ventilation, even in sultry
August, and when we contract the entrance, no bees are lost by finding
the usual door closed.
Some of our best bee-keepers, as Messrs. Heddon, Baldridge, etc.,
prefer that the bottom board be nailed to the hive (Fig. 39). I have
such hives; have had for years, but strongly object to them. They
will not permit a quick clearing of the bottom board, when we give
a cleansing flight in winter, or when we commence operations in
spring, which, especially if there is a quart or more of dead bees,
is very desirable. Nor with their use can we contract the opening
in cold weather, or to stop robbing, without the blocks (Fig. 29),
tins or other traps. _Simplicity should be the motto in hive-making._
The arguments in favor of such fastening are: Convenience in moving
colonies, and in feeding, as we have not to fasten the bottoms when we
desire to ship our bees, and to feed we have only to pour our liquids
into the hives.
Of course, such points are not essential--only matters of convenience.
Let each one decide for himself, which experience will enable him to do.
THE COVER OF THE HIVE.
The cover (Fig. 33, _a_) should be about six inches high, and like the
lid of a trunk. The length and breadth may be the same as the body of
the hive, and fit on with beveled edges (Fig. 33), the body having
the outer edge beveled, and the cover the inner. If we thus join the
cover and hive with a mitered-joint, we must not be satisfied with
anything less than perfection, else in case of storms, the rain will
beat into our hives, which should never be permitted. Such covers can
be fastened to the hives with hinges, or by hooks and staples. But
unless the apiarist is skilled in the use of tools, or hires a mechanic
to make his hives, it will be more satisfactory to make the cover just
large enough (Fig. 29) to shut over and rest on shoulders formed either
by nailing inch strips around the body of the hive, one inch from the
top, or else inside the cover (Fig. 29). If it is preferred to have a
two-story hive, with the upper story (Fig. 33, _b_) just like the lower
(Fig. 33, _c_), this (Fig. 53) may join the lower by a miter-joint,
while a cover (Fig. 33, _a_) two inches high, may join this with a
similar joint.
[Illustration: Fig. 33.]
If the upper story shuts over the lower and rests on a shoulder (Fig.
29) it may still be made to take the same sized frame, by nailing
pieces one-half an inch square to the corners, whose length shall equal
the distance from the rabbet in the lower story to the bottom board.
Now nail to these upright pieces, parallel to the rabbeted faces below,
a three-eighths inch board as wide as the pieces are long. The top of
these thin boards will take the place of the rabbet in the lower story.
This style, which is adopted in the two-story hives as made by Mr.
Langstroth (Fig. 29), will permit in the upper story the same frames
as used in the lower story, while two more can be inserted. Upon this
upper story a shallow cover will rest. Such covers, if desired, may
be made roof-like (Fig. 34), by cutting end pieces, (Fig 34, b) in
form of the gable of a house. In this case there will be two slanting
boards (Fig. 34, _a, a_), instead of one that is horizontal, to carry
off the rain. The slanting boards should project at the ends (Fig. 34,
_d_), for convenience in handling. In such covers we need thin, narrow
ridge-boards (Fig. 34, _c_), to keep all perfectly dry. These covers
look neat, are not so apt to check, and will dry much quicker after a
rain.
[Illustration: Fig. 34.]
If we secure comb-honey in crates, and winter out-doors--in which case
we shall need to protect in the Northern States--it will be convenient
to have a box of the same general form as the main body of the hive,
from six to eight inches deep, just large enough to set over the body
of the hive and rest on shoulder-strips, and without top or bottom;
this to have such a cover as just described. Such is the arrangement
of Southard and Ranney, of Kalamazoo, which, on the score of simplicity
and convenience, has much to recommend it.
In the above I have said nothing about porticos (Fig. 29). If hives are
shaded as they should be, these are useless, and I believe that in no
case will they pay. To be sure, they are nice for spider-webs, and a
shady place in which bees may cluster; but such are inconvenient places
to study the wondrous fabrics of the spider, even were he a friend of
the bees, and the most successful apiarist will not force his bees to
hang in idle clusters about the hive.
THE FRAMES.
The form and size of frames, though not quite as various as the persons
who use them, are still very different. Some prefer large frames. I
first used one ten by eighteen inches, and afterward a shallow frame
about seven by eighteen (Fig. 29). The advantage claimed for large
frames is that there are less to handle, and time is saved; yet may
not smaller frames be handled so much more dexterously, especially if
they are to be handled through all the long day, as to compensate,
in part at least, for the number? The advantage of the shallow frame
is, as claimed, that the bees will go into boxes more readily; yet
they are not considered so safe for out-door wintering. This is the
style recommended and used by Mr. Langstroth, which fact may account
for its popularity in the United States. Another frame in common use,
is one about one foot square. I use one eleven inches square. The
reasons that I prefer this form are, that the comb seldom breaks from
the frame, the frames are convenient for nuclei, and save the expense
of constructing extra nucleus hives, and that these frames permit the
most compact arrangement for winter and spring, and thus enable us to
economize heat. By use of a division board, we can, by using eight
of these frames, occupy just a cubic foot of space in spring, and by
repeated experiments I have found that a hive so constructed that the
bees always cover the combs during the early cold weather, always gives
the best results. As the honey season comes on more can be added, till
we have reached twelve, as many, I think, as will ever be needed for
brood. This was the size of frame preferred by Mr. Gallup, and is the
one used by Messrs. Davis and Doolittle, and many others of our most
successful apiarists. That this size is imperative is, of course, not
true; that it combines as many desirable points as any other, I think,
is true. For apiarists who are not very strong, especially for ladies,
it is beyond question superior to all others.
HOW TO CONSTRUCT THE FRAMES.
In this description, I shall suppose that the frames desired are of the
form and size (Fig. 35) which I use. It will be easy, for any who may
desire, to change the form at pleasure. For the top-bar (Fig. 35, _a_)
of the frame, use a triangular strip twelve and three-quarter inches
long, with each face of the triangle one inch across. Seven-eighths
of an inch from each end of this, form a shoulder, by sawing from one
angle to within one-fourth of an inch of the opposite face, so that
when the piece is split out from the end, these projections shall be
just one-fourth of an inch thick throughout. For the side pieces (Fig.
35, _b, b_), take strips eleven inches long, seven-eighths of an inch
wide, and one-fourth of an inch thick. Tack with small brads the end of
two of these strips firmly to the shoulder of the top-bar, taking pains
that the end touches squarely against the projection. Now tack to the
opposite ends or bottoms, the ends of a similar strip (Fig. 35, _d_)
eleven and a half inches long. We shall thus have a square frame.
[Illustration: Fig. 35.]
If comb-foundation is to be used, and certainly it will be by the
enterprising apiarist, then the top-bar (Fig. 36, _a_) should be
twelve and three-quarters inches by one-quarter by one inch, with a
rectangular, instead of a triangular, projection below (Fig. 36, _b_),
which should be one-fourth by one-eighth inch, the longest direction
up and down. This should be entirely to one side of the centre, so
that when the foundation (Fig. 36, _c_) is pressed against this piece
it will hang exactly from the centre of the top-bar. If preferred, the
bottom of the frame (Fig. 36, _e_) need not be more than half as wide
or thick as described above.
The timber should be thoroughly seasoned, and of the best pine or
white-wood. Care should be taken that the frame be made so as to hang
vertically, when suspended on the rabbets of the hive. To secure this
very important point--true frames that will always hang true--they
should always be made around a guide.
[Illustration: Fig. 36.
_Frame, also Cross-Section of Top-Bar._]
A BLOCK FOR MAKING FRAMES.
This may be made as follows: Take a rectangular board (Fig. 37) eleven
and a quarter by thirteen and a half inches. On both ends of one face
of this, nail hard-wood pieces (Fig. 37, _e, e_) one inch square and
eleven inches long, so that one end (Fig. 37, _g, g_) shall lack
one-fourth inch of reaching the edge of the board. On the other face of
the board, nail a strip (Fig. 37, _c_) four inches wide and eleven and
a quarter inches long, at right-angles to it, and in such position that
the ends shall just reach to the edges of the board. Midway between the
one inch square pieces, screw on another hard-wood strip (Fig. 37, _d_)
one inch square and four inches long, parallel with and three-fourths
of an inch from the edge. To the bottom of this, screw a semi-oval
piece of hoop-steel (Fig. 37, _b, b_), which shall bend around and
press against the square strips. The ends of this should not reach
quite to the bottom of the board. Near the ends of this spring, fasten,
by rivets, an inch strap (Fig. 37, _a_), which shall be straight when
thus riveted. These dimensions are for frames eleven inches square,
inside measure, and must be varied for other sizes.
[Illustration: Fig. 37.]
To use this block, we crowd the end-bars of our frames between the
steel springs (Fig. 37, _b, b_) and the square strips (Fig. 37, _e,
e_); then lay on our top-bar and nail, after which we invert the block
and nail the bottom-bar, as we did the top-bar. Now press down on the
strap (Fig. 37, _a_), which will loosen the frame, when it may be
removed, all complete and true. Such a gauge not only insures perfect
frames, but demands that every piece shall be cut with great accuracy.
And some such arrangement should always be used in making the frames.
The projecting ends of the top-bar will rest on the tins (Fig. 33),
and thus the frame can be easily loosened at any time without jarring
the bees, as the frames will not be glued fast, as they would in case
they rested on the wooden rabbets. The danger of killing bees is also
abolished by use of the tins.
When the frames are in the hive there should be at least a
three-sixteenths inch space between the sides and bottom of the
frames, and the sides and bottom of the hive. Even doubling this would
do no harm; though a much wider space would very likely receive comb,
and be troublesome. Frames that fit close in the hive, or that reach to
the bottom, are very inconvenient and undesirable. To secure against
this, our lumber must be thoroughly seasoned, else when shrinkage takes
place our frames may touch the bottom-board.
The distance between the frames may be one-fourth of an inch, though
a slight variation either way does no harm. Some men, of very precise
habits, prefer nails or wire staples in the side of the frames, at top
and bottom, which project just a quarter of an inch, so as to maintain
this unvarying distance; or staples in the bottom of the hive to secure
the same end. Mr. Langstroth so arranged his frames, and Mr. Palmer,
of Hart, Michigan, whose neatness is only surpassed by his success,
does the same thing. I have had hives with these extra attachments, but
found them no special advantage. I think we can regulate the distance
with the eye, so as to meet every practical demand, and thus save the
expense and trouble which the above attachments cost.
COVER FOR FRAMES.
Nothing that I have ever tried is equal to a quilt for this purpose.
It is a good absorbent of moisture, preserves the heat in spring and
winter, and can be used in summer without jarring or crushing the bees.
This should be a real quilt, made of firm unbleached factory, duck,
or cambric--I have used the first with entire satisfaction for four
years--enclosing a thick layer of batting, and hemmed about the edges.
My wife quilts and hems them on a machine. The quilting is in squares,
and all is made in less than fifteen minutes. The quilt should be a
little larger than the top of the hive, so that after all possible
shrinkage, it will still cover closely. Thus, when this is put on, no
bees can ever get above it. When we use the feeder, it may be covered
by the quilt, and a flap cut in the latter, just above the hole in the
feeder, enables us to feed without disturbing the bees, though I place
the feeder at the end of the chamber, wherein are the bees, and have
only to double the quilt back when I feed. The only objection that I
know to the quilt is, that the bees will fasten propolis, and even
comb, between it and the frames, and this looks bad. A little care
'will make this a small objection. Mr. Langstroth used a board above
the frames, which Mr. Heddon uses even now. Perhaps Mr. Heddon never
used the quilts. Perhaps his love of order and neatness caused him to
discard them. Still, I feel to thank Mr. A. I. Root for calling my
attention to quilts.
[Illustration: Fig. 38.]
DIVISION BOARD.
A close-fitting division board (Fig. 38) for contracting the chamber,
is very important, and though unappreciated by many excellent
apiarists, still no hive is complete without it. I find it especially
valuable in winter and spring, and useful at all seasons. This is
made the same form as the frames, though all below the top-bar--which
consists of a strip thirteen inches long by one inch by three-eighths,
and is nailed firmly to the board below--is a solid inch board (Fig.
38, _b_), which is exactly one foot square, so that it fits closely to
the inside of the hive. If desired, the edges (Fig. 38, _e, e_) can be
beveled, as seen in the figure. When this is inserted in the hive it
entirely separates the chamber into two chambers, so that an insect
much smaller than a bee could not pass from the one to the other. Mr.
A. I. Root makes one of cloth, chaff, etc. Yet, I think few apiarists
would bother with so much machinery. Mr. W. L. Porter, Secretary of the
Michigan Association, makes the board a little loose, and then inserts
a rubber strip in a groove sawed in the edges. This keeps the board
snug, and makes its insertion easy, even though heat may shrink or damp
may swell either the board or hive. I have not tried this, but like the
suggestion.
The use of the division board is to contract the chamber in winter, _to
vary it so as to keep combs covered in spring_, to convert the hive
into a nucleus hive, and to contract the chamber in the upper-story of
a two-story hive, when first adding frames to secure surplus comb-honey.
THE HUBER HIVE.
The other type of hives originated when Huber hinged several of his
leaf or unicomb hives together, so that the frames would open like the
leaves of a book; though it has been stated that the Grecians had, in
early times, something similar.
In 1866, Mr. T. F. Bingham, then of New York, improved upon the Huber
hive, securing a patent on his triangular frame hive. This, so far as I
can judge, was the Huber hive made practical.
In 1868, Mr. M. S. Snow, then of New York, now of Minnesota, procured
a patent on his hive, which was essentially the same as the hives now
known as the Quinby and Bingham hives.
Soon after, the late Mr. Quinby brought forth his hive, which is
essentially the same as the above, only differing in details. No patent
was obtained by Mr. Quinby, whose great heart and boundless generosity
endeared him to all acquaintances. Those who knew him best, never
tire of praising the unselfish acts and life of this noble man. If we
except Mr. Langstroth, no man has probably done so much to promote
the interest and growth of improved apiculture in the United States.
His hive, his book, his views of wintering, his introduction of the
bellows-smoker--a gift to apiarists--all speak his praise as a man and
an apiarist.
The fact that the Bingham hive, as now made, is a great favorite with
those who have used it, and is pronounced by so capable a judge as Mr.
Heddon, to be the best movable-comb hive in existence, that Mr. Quinby
preferred this style or type of hive, that the Quinby form is used
by the Hetherington brothers. Captain J. E., the prince of American
apiarists, and O. J., whose neatness, precision, and mechanical skill
are enough to awaken envy; that the Russell hive is but a modification
of the same type, are surely enough to awaken curiosity and bespeak a
description.
[Illustration: Fig. 39.
_Frame, Bottom-Board and Frame-Support of Quinby Hive._]
The Quinby hive (Fig. 39), as used by the Hetherington brothers,
consists of a series of rectangular frames (Fig. 39) twelve by
seventeen inches, outside measure. The ends of these frames are one
and a half inches wide and half an inch thick. The top and bottom one
inch wide and half an inch thick. The outer half of the ends projects
one-fourth of an inch beyond the top and bottom. This projection is
lined with sheet iron, which is inserted in a groove which runs one
inch into each end of the end-pieces and are tacked by the same nails
that fasten the end-bars to the top and bottom-bars. This iron at the
end of the bar bends in at right-angles (Fig. 39, _a, a_), and extends
one-fourth of an inch parallel with the top and bottom-bars. Thus, when
these frames stand side by side, the ends are close, while half-inch
openings extend between the top and bottom-bars of adjacent frames.
The bottom-bars, too, are one-fourth of an inch from the bottom-board.
Tacked to the bottom-board, in line with the position of the back
end-bars of the frames is an inch strip of sheet-iron (Fig. 39, _b,
b_) sixteen inches in length. One-third of this strip, from the front
edge back, is bent over so it lies not quite in contact with the second
third, while the posterior third receives the tacks which hold it to
the bottom-board. Now, when in use this iron flange receives the hooks
on the corners of the frames, so that the frames are held firmly, and
can only be moved back and sidewise. In looking at the bees we can
separate the combs at once, at any place. The chamber can be enlarged
or diminished simply by adding or withdrawing frames. As the hooks are
on all four corners of the frames, the frames can be either end back,
or either side up. Boards with the iron hooks close the sides of the
brood cavity, while a quilt covers the frames.
The entrance (Fig. 39, _e_) is cut in the bottom-board as already
explained, except that the lateral edges are kept parallel. A strip of
sheet-iron (Fig. 39, _d_) is tacked across this, on which rest the ends
of the front end-bars of the frames which stand above, and underneath
which pass the bees as they come to and go from the hive. A box,
without bottom and with movable top, covers all, leaving a space from
four to six inches above and on all sides between it and the frames.
This gives chance to pack with chaff in winter, and for side and top
storing in sections or boxes in summer.
[Illustration: Fig. 40.
_Frames and Bottom-Board of the Bingham Hive._]
The Bingham hive (Fig. 40) is not only remarkably simple, but is as
remarkable for its shallow depth; the frames being only five inches
high. These have no bottom-bar. The end-bars are one and a half inches
wide, and the top-bar square. The nails that hold the end-bars pass
into the end of the top-bar, which is usually placed diagonally, so
that an edge, not a face, is below; though some are made with a face
below (Fig. 40, _f_), to be used when comb is transferred. The frames
are held together by two wires, one at each end. Each wire (Fig. 40,
_a_) is a little longer than twice the width of the hive when the
maximum number of frames are used. The ends of each wire are united
and placed about nails (Fig. 40, _b, b_) in the ends of the boards
(Fig. 40, _c, c_) which form the sides of the brood-chamber. A small
stick (Fig. 40, _a_) spreads these wires, and brings the frames close
together. A box without bottom and with movable cover, is placed about
the frames. This is large enough and high enough to permit of chaff
packing in winter and spring. The bottom-board may be made like the
one already described. Mr. Bingham does not bevel the bottom-board,
but places lath under three sides of the brood-chamber, the lath being
nailed to the bottom-board--and then uses the blocks to contract the
entrance (Fig. 40, _g_).
The advantages of this hive are, simplicity, great space above for
surplus frames or boxes, capability of being placed one hive above
another to any height desired, while the frames may be reversed, end
for end, or bottom for top, or the whole brood-chamber turned up-side
down. Thus, by doubling, we may have a depth of ten inches for winter.
The objection which I have found in the similar Russell hive, is danger
of killing bees in rapid handling. In the Russell hive the side-bars
are halved together, and held in place by ingeniously contrived wire
hooks. There are no bottom-bars. I have used none of these except
the Russell. They can be manipulated with rapidity, if we care not
how many bees we crush. It hurts me to kill a bee, and so I find the
Langstroth style more quickly manipulated. Mr. Snow, too, who was the
first to make the above style of hive, has discarded it in favor of the
Langstroth. His objection to the above, is the fact that the various
combs are not sure to be so built as to be interchangeable. Yet that
such apiarists as those above named prefer these Huber hives, after
long use of the other style, is certainly not without significance.
* * * * *
APPARATUS FOR PROCURING COMB-HONEY.
Although I feel sure that extracted-honey will grow more and more into
favor, yet it will never supersede the beautiful comb, which, from its
exquisite flavor and attractive appearance, has always been, and always
will be, admired and desired. So, no hive is complete without its
arrangement of boxes, section-frames, and crates, all constructed with
the view of securing this delectable comb-honey in the form that will
be most irresistible.
BOXES.
These are for surplus comb-honey in the most salable form. They may be
of any size that best suits the taste of the apiarist, and the pulse of
the market.
[Illustration: Fig. 41.]
It is well that the sides of these be of glass. Such (Fig. 41) may be
made as follows: For top and bottom procure soft-wood boards one-fourth
of an inch thick and of the size desired, one for the bottom and the
other for the top of the box. Take four pieces half an inch square
and as long as the desired height of the honey-box. In two adjacent
sides of these saw grooves in which may slip common glass. These
are for corner pieces. Now tack with small brads the corners of the
bottom-board to the ends of these pieces, then slide in the glass,
and in similar way tack the top-board to the other ends. Through the
bottom-board holes may be bored so that the bees may enter. A similar
box is made by A. H. Russell, of Adrian, Mich., except that tin forms
the corners. These may be made to take from one to three combs, and are
certainly very attractive. If made small and set in a crate so that all
could be removed at once, they would leave little to be desired. The
Isham box (Fig. 42) is essentially like the Russell; only the tin at
the corners is fastened differently. Surely, all great minds do run in
the same channel. Another form (Fig. 43) which I find very desirable,
and which I used in California (where they were introduced by Mr.
Harbison) more than ten years ago, is made as follows: Dress off common
lath so that they are smooth, cut off two lengths the desired height of
the box, and one the desired width; tack this last piece to the ends of
the other two, and to the other end tack a similar strip only half as
wide. We now have a square frame.
[Illustration: Fig. 42.]
[Illustration: Fig. 43.]
Place such frames side by side till a box is made of the desired
length. To hold these together, we have now only to tack on either
side one or two pieces of tin, putting a tack into each section, thus
forming a compact box without ends. The end frames should have a whole
piece of lath for the bottom, and grooves should be cut in the bottom
and top laths, so that a glass may be put in the ends. Of course there
is ample chance for the bees to enter from below. Now, by placing
small pieces of comb, or artificial comb foundation, which ranks as a
discovery with the movable-frame hive and honey-extractor, on the top
of each frame (Fig. 43), the bees will be led to construct a separate
comb in each frame, and each frame may be sold by the retail dealer
separately, by simply drawing the tacks from the tins. Barker and
Dicer, of Marshall, Michigan, make a very neat sectional honey-box,
which is quite like the above, except that paper pasted over the frames
takes the place of the tins. These, too, have wood separators as used
and sold by the gentlemen named. The honey-boxes may be placed directly
on the frames, or in case the queen makes trouble by entering them to
deposit eggs--a trouble which I have seldom met, perhaps because I
give her enough to do below--we can plaice strips one-fourth of an inch
square between the frames and boxes. In case we work extensively for
box honey, we should have a rack or crate so made that we can remove
all the boxes at once; in which case to examine the bees we would not
have to remove all the boxes separately.
SMALL FRAMES OR SECTIONS.
Honey in boxes, unless they consist of sections as just described,
cannot compete with honey in small frames, in our present markets, and
without doubt they will fall more and more into disfavor. In fact,
there is no apparatus for securing comb-honey that promises so well as
these sections. That they are just the thing to enable us to tickle the
market is shown by their rapid growth in popular favor. Three years
ago I predicted, at one of our State Conventions, that they would soon
replace boxes, and was laughed at. Nearly all who then laughed, now
use these sections. They are cheap, and with their use we can get more
honey, and in a form that will make it irresistible.
REQUISITES OF GOOD SECTIONS
The wood should be _white_, the size small, from four to six inches
square, the sections capable of being glassed, at least on the faces,
not too much cut off from brood-chamber, cheap, easily made, and so
arranged as to be put on or taken off the hive _en masse_.
[Illustration: Fig. 44.]
DESCRIPTION.
The style of section which I think will soon replace all others, is
easily made, as follows: For a section four inches square take a strip
of _clean, white_ veneer--cut from basswood, poplar or white-wood--such
as is used to make berry-boxes, two inches wide and twenty inches long;
for larger sections make it proportionally longer. Make a shallow cut
every four inches at right-angles to the sides--though they will do
this, if asked to, at the factory. Now with a chisel (Fig. 44) four
inches long, with one-eighth inch projections at right-angles to
the main blade, cut out sections on the opposite edges of the main
strip--which will leave openings one-eighth inch by four inches,
between the first and second shallow cut and the third and fourth. We
now bend this around a square block (Fig. 45) which will just fill
it, letting the ends over-lap, and drive through these over-lapping
sections one or two small wrought brads on to an iron, (Fig. 45, _b_)
set into the block, by which they will be clinched. Or, by using glue,
we may dispense with the block. Now, if your market requires glassed
sections, or if you wish to insert dividers, either tin or wood, glue
posts one-fourth of an inch square, four in each section along the
uncut sides one-eighth inch from the edges. The ends of these will just
come flush with the gouged edges above and below. Now, by use of tins
such as are used to fasten window-glass, these can be glassed, or if
desired, each one can receive a tin or wooden separator.
[Illustration: Fig. 45.]
If this gluing in of the pieces is thought too troublesome, we may
still achieve the same end by using tin separators in our crates, and
then glass our sections by cutting a square glass, just the size of the
section, outside measure, and with heavy white paper paste two of these
glass to the sections. This makes each section perfectly close, and
is the method devised by Southard and Ranney for practice the coming
season. A paste made of dextrine, tragacanth, or even flour, will
answer to fasten the strips of paper, which need not be more than one
inch wide. A little carbolic acid, or salicylic acid in solution, will
keep the paste from souring.
Every apiarist can make these sections for himself, and thus save
freight and profits of making. They are neat, very cheap--costing but
two mills each--and are made strong by use of the glued posts. They
are also light. Very soon our customers will object to buying wood
and glass, if our unglassed sections of comb-honey are kept in close
glassed crates.
[Illustration: Fig. 46.]
The Hetherington brothers make a very neat section, as follows: The top
and bottom are each two inches wide, of one-quarter inch white pine.
These receive a groove one-eighth inch from the ends, which receives
the sides, one inch wide and one-eighth inch thick, which is pressed
through to a central position and glued. This section is five and a
half inches square. They use wooden dividers (Fig. 46, _a_) one-eighth
of an inch thick, as long as the section, but one inch less in height,
so that below and above is a half-inch space, which permits the bees to
pass readily from one section to another. These are held by a half-inch
strip of tin (Fig. 46, _b, b_), which passes through a groove (Fig. 46,
_c_) in the ends of the dividers, and reaches half an inch farther;
then turns at right-angles and ends in a point (Fig. 46, _b_), which,
when in use, sticks into the top or bottom pieces; and so the four
points hold the dividers in place. When ready to sell, they insert
half-inch glass in the grooves each side the narrow side-pieces, and
with tins fasten glass on the faces, and have a very handsome section.
I think this preferable to the Russell or Isham box or section, as the
one-inch strip of wood covers the part of the comb where it is fastened
to the sides, which is never attractive, while the rest is all glassed.
Such sections were praised in New York and Cincinnati last season as
very fine and neat; equal, if not superior, to all others.
[Illustration: Fig. 47.]
A. I. Root prefers sections made as are children's toy-blocks, the
sides fastened by a sort of mortise and tennon arrangement (Fig. 47). I
have received from Mr. James Heddon a similar section, but neater and
more finished, which is made in Vermont. These are too complex to be
made without machinery, are no better for their fancy corners--in fact,
they are not as strong as is desirable--and, as we cannot afford to
purchase our apparatus when we can as well make it ourselves, I cannot
recommend them for general use.
[Illustration: Fig. 48.]
The Phelps-Wheeler-Betsinger sections (Fig. 48) are essentially the
same. The top and bottom are a little more narrow than the sides, and
are nailed to them. The Wheeler sections-invented and patented by Mr.
Geo. T. Wheeler, Mexico, New York, in 1870--are remarkable for being
the first (Fig. 52, _K_) to be used with tin separators (Fig. 52, _M_).
Instead of making the bottoms one-quarter of an inch narrower for a
passage, Mr. Wheeler made an opening in the bottom, as does Mr. Russell.
HOW TO PLACE SECTIONS IN POSITION.
There are two methods, each of which is excellent, and has, as it well
may, earnest advocates--one by use of crates, the other by frames.
SECTIONS IN FRAMES.
I prefer this method, perhaps because I have used it most. These frames
(Fig. 49) are made the same size as the frames in the brood-chamber,
except that they are made of strips two inches wide, and one-fourth of
an inch thick, though the bottom-bar is a quarter of an inch narrower,
so that when two frames are side by side, there is one-fourth of an
inch space between the bottom bars, though the top and side pieces are
close together. The sections are of such a size (Fig. 50, _K_) that
four, or six, or nine, etc., will just fill one of the large frames.
Nailed to one side of each large frame are two tin strips (Fig. 50,
_t, t′_) as long as the frame, and as wide into one inch as are the
sections. These are tacked half an inch from the top and the bottom of
the large frames, and so are opposite the sections, thus permitting the
bees to pass readily from one tier of sections to another, as do the
narrower top and bottom-bars of the sections, from those below to those
above. I learned of such an arrangement of sections from A. I. Root.
[Illustration: Fig. 49.]
Captain Hetherington tells me that Mr. Quinby used them years ago. The
tin arrangement, though unlike Mr. Wheeler's (Fig. 52, _M_), would
be readily suggested by it. It is more trouble to make these frames
if we have the tins set in so as just to come flush with the edge
of the end-bars of the frames, but then the frames would hang close
together, and would not be so stuck together with propolis. These may
be hung in the second story of a two-story hive, and just so many as
to fill the same--my hives will take nine--or they can be put below,
beside the brood-combs. Mr. Doolittle, in case he hangs these below,
inserts a perforated division-board, so that the queen will not enter
the sections and lay eggs. I used them very successfully last summer
without division-boards, and neither brood nor pollen were placed in
a single cell. Perhaps wider tins would prevent this should it occur.
In long hives--the "New Idea"--which I find very satisfactory, after
several years' trial, especially for extracted honey--I have used these
frames of sections, and with the best success. The Italians entered
them at once, and filled them even more quickly than other bees filled
the sections in the upper story. In fact, one great advantage of these
sections in the frames is the Obvious and ample passage-ways, inviting
the bees to enter them. But in our desire to make ample and inviting
openings, caution is required that we do not over-do the matter, and
invite the queen to injurious intrusion. So we have Charybdis and
Scylla, and must, by study, learn to so steer between, as to avoid both
dangers.
[Illustration: Fig. 50.]
SECTIONS IN RACKS.
These are to use in lieu of large frames, to hold sections, and are
very convenient when we wish to set the sections only one deep above
the brood-chamber. Though, if desired, we can place one rack above
another, and so have sections two, and even three deep.
[Illustration: Fig. 51.]
[Illustration: Fig. 52.]
Southard and Ranney, of Kalamazoo, use a very neat rack (Fig. 51), in
which they use the thin veneer sections which we recommend as superior
to all others for the general apiarist. They have used these with
excellent success, but without separators, which they wish to insert.
Perhaps by taking out the board partitions (Fig. 51, _B, B_), and
putting tin separators the other way across, they would accomplish
their object. In this case, the ends of the adjacent sections would not
be separated, and the width of the rack would just accommodate two,
three, or four sections, to be governed by size of hive and sections.
The sheet-iron rests (Fig. 51, _H, H, H_) which, with their bent edges,
just raise the rack one-fourth of an inch from the brood frames, would
then run the other way, and give the requisite strength. Thus, the
tins would not be liable to bend, as they would if run the shorter way
of the rack. The end-board, too (Fig. 51. _A_), would be a side-board,
and the strips (Fig. 51, _G, G_), with the intervening glass, would be
at the ends.
The Wheeler rack (Fig. 52) simply holds the sections, while each
section is glassed separately.
Captain Hetherington sets a rack of sections above the frames, and
stands sections one above the other on the side for side storing.
Mr. Doolittle makes a rack by placing frames, such as I have
described--except they are only half as high, and hold but two
sections--side by side, where they are held by tacking a stick on top
across each end of the row. He also places two tiers, two deep, at each
end of the brood-chamber, if he desires to give so much room.
All apiarists who desire to work for comb honey which will sell, will
certainly use the sections, and either adjust them by use of frames or
crates.
FOOT-POWER SAW.
Every apiarist who keeps upwards of fifty colonies of bees, and makes
apiculture a specialty, will find a foot power saw a very valuable
apparatus.
I have now used the admirable combined foot-power saw of W. F. & John
Barnes for a year, and find that it grows in value each month. It
permits rapid work, insures uniformity, and enables the apiarist to
give a finish to his work that would rival that of the cabinet-maker.
Those who procure such a machine should learn to file and set the saws,
and should never run the machine when not in perfect order.