following day, but we started soon after seven, and plodded steadily
along in an atmosphere of mystery, through intricate defiles, among
lofty mountains half-seen, strange sounds half-heard, vanishing
ravines and momentary glimpses of villages on heights,
fortress-crowned precipices, suggestive of the days of Genoese
supremacy, as in the magnificent gorge of Kala, and long strings of
camels magnified in the snow-mist, to the Kala village, with its
dashing torrent, its fine walnut trees, and its immense camel stables,
in and outside of which 700 camels were taking shelter from the
storm. We pushed on, however, during that day and the next, through
the beautiful and populous Gumushkhane valley to Kupru Bridge, having
descended almost steadily for five days.
The narrow valley of the Kharshut is magnificent, and on the second
day the snow was only lying on the heights. The traveller is seldom
out of sight of houses, which are built on every possible projection
above the river, and on narrow spurs in wild lateral ravines, and
wherever there are houses there are walnut, pear, apple and apricot
trees, with smooth green sward below, and the walnut branches often
meet over the road. The houses are mostly large, often whitewashed,
always brown-roofed, and much like Swiss _chalets_, but without the
long slopes of verdure which make Switzerland so fair. Instead of
verdure there is the wildest rock and mountain scenery, a congeries of
rock-walls, precipices, and pinnacles, and the semblance of minarets
and fortresses, flaming red, or burnt sienna, or yellow ochre,
intermingled with bold fronts of crimson and pale blue rock, the
crimson cliffs looking in the rain as if torrents of blood were
pouring over them. The roadway has been both blasted out of the rock
and built up from the river. Far up picturesque ravines oxen were
ploughing the red friable soil on heights which looked inaccessible;
there was the velvety greenness of winter wheat; scrub oak and
barberry find root-hold in rocky rifts, and among crags high up among
the glittering snows contorted junipers struggle for a precarious
existence.
The road was enlivened by local as well as through traffic, and
brightened by the varied costumes of Turks, Greeks, Armenians, and
Lazes. The latter do not resemble the Turks in physiognomy or costume.
All of them carry rifles and sabres, and two daggers in their
girdles, one of which always has a cloven hilt. They are on their way
to their native province of Lazistan with droves of horses, and are
much dreaded by both the _katirgis_ and _khanjis_ on the road for
their marauding habits. The Turkish Government has a very difficult
task in ruling and pacifying the number of races which it has
subjugated even in Asiatic Turkey. Between the Arabs of the Chaldaean
Plains and the Lazes of the shores of the Black Sea I have met even in
my limited travels with Sabeans, Jews, Armenians, Syrians, Yezidis,
Kurds, Osmanlis, Circassians, and Greeks, alien and antagonistic in
creed and race, but somehow held together and to some extent governed
by a power which is, I think, by no means so feeble as she is
sometimes supposed to be.
The Kharshut is crossed at Kupru Bridge by a very fine stone arch.
This village, at the foot of the Zigana Mountain, is entirely composed
of inferior _khans_, food shops, and smiths' shops. The clang of
hammers lasted late into the night, for the road was reported as
"icy," and more than 400 horses and mules were having their shoes
roughed for the passage of the Zigana Mountain. I arrived late in the
evening, when all the _khans_ were full, and had to put up in a hovel,
the door of which was twice attempted during the night by a band of
Lazes, about whose proceedings Stephan, my _katirgi_, had been very
suspicious. After the servants and _katirgis_, roused by my whistle,
had rushed out of an opposite stable upon the marauders, I lay awake
for some time trying to realise that my ride of 2500 miles was nearly
at an end, and that European civilisation was only five days off; but
it was in vain. I felt as if I should _always_ be sleeping in stables
or dark dens, _always_ uttering the call to "boot and saddle" two
hours before daylight, _always_ crawling along mountain roads on a
woolly horse, _always_ planning marches, _always_ studying Asiatic
character, and _always_ sinking deeper into barbarism!
From the summit of the Zigana Mountain to Trebizond is a steady
descent of twelve hours. The ascent from Kupru Bridge occupied five
hours and a half. It was a much more serious affair than crossing the
Kop Dagh, for the snowstorm had lasted for three days, the snow was
from four to nine feet deep on the summit, and the thawing of its
surface at the lower altitudes, succeeded by keen frost, had resulted
in the production of slopes of ice, over which I had to walk for two
hours, as _Boy_ could scarcely keep on his feet.
The early snow has a witchery of its own, and it may be that the
Zigana Mountain and the views from it are not so beautiful as I think
them, but under the circumstances in which I saw them, I was
astonished with the magnificence of the scenery, and with the vast
pine forests which clothe the mountain sides. Villages of _chalets_,
with irregular balconies, and steep roofs projecting from two to six
feet, are perched on rocky heights, or nestle among walnuts with a
blue background of pines, above which tower spires and peaks of
unsullied snow; ridges rise into fantastic forms and mimicries of
minarets and castles; pines, filling gigantic ravines with their blue
gloom, stand sentinels over torrents silenced for the winter; and
colossal heights and colossal depths, an uplifted snow world of
ceaseless surprises under a blue sky full of light, make one fancy
oneself in Switzerland, till a long train of decorated camels or a
turbaned party of armed travellers dissipates the dream.
The last hour of the ascent was very severe. The wind was strong and
keen, and the drifting snow buffeted us unmercifully. The mercury fell
to 3 deg. below zero, and the cold was intense. Murphy complained of
"trembles" in his knees and severe pain in his legs, and when we
reached the summit was really ill. The drift was not only blinding and
stinging but suffocating. I was quite breathless, and felt a chill
round my heart. I could not even see _Boy's_ neck, and he cowered from
the blast; but just as all things were obliterated I found myself
being helped to dismount in the shelter of a camel stable full of
Lazes, but was so benumbed that I could not stand. Some _zaptiehs_ had
the humanity to offer me the shelter of a hovel nearly buried in the
snow, and made a fire and some coffee, and I waited there till the
wind moderated. It came in such fierce gusts as actually to blow two
of the baggage horses over on their sides. Murphy was really ill of
fever for two days from the cold and exposure. The altitude of the
pass is about 6627 feet.
The first part of the descent was made on foot, for the snow had
drifted on the road to a height of fully twenty feet, leaving only a
path of shelving ice on the brink of a precipitous slope. Earlier in
the day twenty laden camels had gone over, and were heaped in the
ravine below, not all dead. The road dips with some suddenness into a
deep glen, dark with pine and beech forests; large rhododendrons and
the _Azalea pontica_ forming a dense undergrowth. Long gray lichen
hung from the branches, Christmas roses and premature primroses
bloomed in sheltered places, the familiar polypody and the _Asplenium
adiantum nigrum_ filled every crevice, soft green moss draped the
rocks, there was a delicious smell of damp autumn leaves, and when we
reached the Greek village of Hamzikeuy clouds were rolling heavily up
the valley from the not far distant ocean.
The two days which followed were easy and pleasant, through a
prosperous and peopled valley brightened by the rushing waters of the
Surmel, the ancient Pyxites. Orchards and tillage beautify the lower
slopes of the mountains, the road is excellent, the homesteads are in
good repair, the people are bright and cheery-looking, and Greek
villages with prominent churches on elevated spurs add an element of
Christian civilisation to the landscape. The exceeding beauty of
natural forests, of soft green sward starred with the straw-coloured
blossoms of the greater hellebore, of abounding ferns and trailers, of
"the earth bringing forth grass, the herb yielding seed, and the tree
yielding fruit after his kind," of prosperous villages with cheerful
many-windowed houses and red-tiled deep-eaved roofs, can only be fully
appreciated by the traveller who has toiled over the burning wastes of
Persia with their mud villages and mud ruins, and across the bleak
mountains and monotonous plateaux of the Armenian highlands, with
their ant-hill dwellings, and their poverty-stricken population for
ever ravaged by the Kurd.
"Tilled with a pencil," carefully weeded, and abundantly manured, the
country looks like a garden. The industrious Greek population thrives
under the rule of the Osmanlis. Travellers on foot and on horseback
abound, and _khans_ and _cafes_ succeed each other rapidly. When the
long descent alongside of the Surmel was accomplished, the scenery
gradually became tamer, and the look of civilisation more emphasised.
The grass was if possible greener, the blossoming hellebore more
abundant, detached balconied houses with their barns and outhouses
evidenced the security of the country, the heat-loving fig began to
find a place in the orchards, the funereal cypress appeared in its
fitting position among graves, and there was a briny odour in the air,
but, unfortunately for the traveller, the admirable engineering of the
modern waggon road deprives him of that magnificent view of the ocean
from a height which has wrung from many a wanderer since the days of
the Ten Thousand the joyful exclamation, "_Thalatta! Thalatta!_"
The valley opened, there was a low grassy hill, beyond it, broad
yellow sands on which the "stormy Euxine" thundered in long creamy
surges, and creeping up the sides of a wooded headland, among
luxuriant vegetation, the well-built, brightly-coloured, red-roofed
houses of the eastern suburb of Trebizond, the ancient Trapezus.[62]
It was the journey's end, yet such is the magic charm of Asia that I
would willingly have turned back at that moment to the snowy plateaux
of Armenia and the savage mountains of Kurdistan.
I. L. B.
FOOTNOTE:
[62] The itineraries will be found in Appendix B.
APPENDIX A
Among the prayers recited by the Hadjis are those with which the
pilgrims circle the Kaaba at Mecca, a translation of which was given
by Canon Tristram in a delightful paper on Mecca contributed to the
_Sunday at Home_ volume for 1883. The following is a specimen:--
"O God, I extend my hands to Thee: great is my longing towards Thee.
Accept Thou my supplication, remove my hindrances, pity my
humiliation, and mercifully grant me Thy pardon.
"O God, I beg of Thee that faith which shall not fall away, and that
certainty which shall not perish, and the good aid of Thy prophet
Mohammed--may God bless and preserve him! O God, shade me with Thy
shadow in that day when there is no shade but Thy shadow, and cause me
to drink from the cup of Thy prophet Mohammed--may God bless him and
preserve him!--that pleasant draught after which is no thirst to all
eternity."
APPENDIX B
ITINERARIES WITH APPROXIMATE DISTANCES
1
From BAGHDAD to KIRMANSHAH.
Miles
Orta Khan 16
Yakobieh 14
Wiyjahea 16
Sheraban 11
Kizil Robat 18
Khanikin 17
Kasr-i-Shirin 16
Sir-i-pul-Zohab 18
Myan Tak 15
Kirrind 14
Harunabad 20
Mahidasht 22
Kirmanshah 14
---
211
2
From KIRMANSHAH to TIHRAN.[63]
Besitun 22
Sannah 16
Kangawar 21
Phaizalpah 24
Hamilabad 12
Nanej 18
Dizabad 24
Saruk 22
Ahang Garang 12
Siashan 20
Jairud 18
Taj Khatan 14
Kum 25
Shashgird. 16
Aliabad 24
Husseinabad 28
Tihran 28
---
344
3
From TIHRAN to ISFAHAN.
Miles
Husseinabad 28
Aliabad 28
Shashgird 24
Kum 16
Passangham 16
Sinsin 24
Kashan 24
Kuhr[=u]d 28
Soh 24
Murchehkhurt 28
Gez 24
Isfahan 16
---
280
4
From ISFAHAN to BURUJIRD.
The actual distance travelled, about 700 miles.
5
From BURUJIRD to HAMADAN.
Deswali 16
Sahmine 13
Daulatabad 12
Jamilabad 22
Mongawi 6
Yalpand 9
Hamadan 8
--
86
6
From HAMADAN to URMI.
Miles
Bahar 8
Kooltapa 24
Gaukhaud 20
Babarashan 20
Bijar 20
Karabulak 16
Jafirabad 16
Takautapa 151/2
Geokahaz 16
Sanjud 14
Sain Kala 141/2
Kashawar 15
Miandab 21
Amirabad 12
Sujbul[=a]k 16
Mehemetabad 14
Dissa 25
Turkman 12
Urmi 10
---
309
7
From URMI to VAN.
Hours
Anhar 2
Merwana 31/2
Marbishu 9
Pirzala 10
Gahgoran 2
Shawutha 8
Kochanes 6
Kotranis 7
Merwanen 10
Khanjarak 9
Van 9
188 Miles.
8
From VAN to BITLIS.
Hours
Angugh 4.45
Undzak 8.30
Ghazit 7
Bitlis 8
90 Miles.
9
From BITLIS to ERZERUM.
Gudzag 8
Pikhruz 8
Yangaloo 9
Ghazloo 10
Ama 6.30
Matchetloo 6
Herta 7
Erzerum 5
177 Miles (?)
10
From ERZERUM to TREBIZOND.
Elijeh 31/2
Ashkala 71/2
Kop Khane 81/2
Baiburt 7
---- Bridge 61/2
Getchid 4
Gumush Khane 8
Kupru Bridge 7
Hemizkeuy 83/4
Atli Killessi 8
Trebizond 6
199 Miles by Measurement.
FOOTNOTE:
[63] Probably the distance by this route is over-estimated, as it is
the computation of the _charvadars_.
INDEX
A
Ab-i-Arjanak, ii. 77
Ab-i-Baznoi, ii. 59, 70
Ab-i-Bazuft, ii. 15
Ab-i-Burujird, ii. 71, 114
Ab-i-Diz, ii. 71, 113
Ab-i-Khonsar or Abi Kum, i. 161, 168, 170
Ab-i-Kirrind, i. 93
Ab-i-Mowaz, ii. 18
Ab-i-Nozi, ii. 18
Ab-i-Sefid, ii. 66
Ab-i-Zaz, ii. 94
_Abba_, Arab dress, i. 33
Abdul Azim, i. 178, 189
---- Rahim, i. 99;
hospitality, 99;
family history, 99;
_menage_, 101, 115;
courtesy, 114
Abraham, Deacon, ii. 243
Agha Hassan, i. 99
Ahang Garang, i. 152
Ahwaz, i. 9, 10
Aimarah, i. 16;
prison, 17
Akabah-i-Holwan, i. 88
Akhlat, ii. 360;
rock chambers, 361;
castle, 362;
monoliths, 362;
_turbehs_ or mausoleums, 362
Akhtamar, Island rock of, ii. 343;
Church, 343
Alexander, Dr., ii. 162
Ali-Ilahis, i. 85, 86
Ali-Kuh, ii. 1, 4;
wild-flowers, 5;
Pass, 5
Aliabad, caravanserai of, i. 172, 226
Amin-es-Sultan, or Prime Minister, i. 176, 203
Amin-i-lewa, ii. 5
Amir-i-Panj, i. 261-266;
character, 262;
_andarun_, 263;
on the education and position of English women, 264
Amirabad, ii. 205
Angugh, ii. 341
Anhar, ii. 261
Arabs, improvement of, i. 11;
condition, 20;
costume, 33;
tattooing, 34
_Arak_, i. 272
Ardal, i. 311, 317, 336; ii. 2;
valley, i. 316;
castle, 318;
_andarun_, 318-322
Ardost, peaks of, ii. 338
Arjanak, ii. 78
Arjul, alpine meadow, i. 349
Armenian houses, i. 37, 270;
women, 272;
churches, 273-276;
pictures, 274;
long fasts, 276;
superstitions, 277;
costume, 278, 364;
needle-work, 366;
banquet, 367;
church, 368;
characteristics of, ii. 336;
condition, 340;
brides, 368;
in Kurdistan, 373-377;
ruins, 389
Artemid, ii. 341
Ashirets, the, ii. 314
Ashkala, ii. 387
Aslam Khan, ii. 63
Aurugun, i. 370
B
Baba Ali Mountain, ii. 197
B[=a]b[=a] Yadg[=a]r, tomb of, i. 86
Babarashan, ii. 177
B[=a]bis, sect of the, i. 273
Badush, ii. 83
Bagh-i-Washi, i. 301
Baghdad, i. 21;
Church Mission at, 24;
impressions of, 26;
population, 28;
bazars, 29;
cafes, 30;
trade, 30, 43;
"Fish of Tobias," 31;
bricks, 35;
schools at, 36, 37;
dispensary, 38;
boils, 39
Bahar, ii. 169
Baiburt, ii. 388
Bakhtiari Country, the general description of, i. 286-293;
women, 319;
hair-dyes, 319;
costume, 320;
dying man, 322-325;
politics, 327;
punishments, 329;
entertainment, 331;
_haram_, 353;
marriage customs, 355;
_chapi_, national dance, 356;
conceit, 357;
camping-ground, 371;
tents, 372;
hospitality, 377;
diseases, 379;
education, ii. 7;
methods of cultivation, 9;
paternal tenderness, 21;
diet, 22;
sensitiveness, 32;
poverty, 54;
"blood feuds," 55;
tribal feuds, 84;
tribesmen, 98;
burial rites, 99;
graveyards, 100;
religion, 101-103;
men's costume, 106;
women's, 107;
polygamy, 108;
population, 110 _note_;
taxation, 111;
exports, 111;
animals, 117
Baldiji, Moslem village, i. 369
Bani, ii. 267
Barchallah, ii. 286
Basnoi, ii. 67
Basrah, i. 1, 6;
climate, 7;
date industry, 7;
inhabitants, 8
Bawali, ii. 124
Bazuft or Rudbar valley, ii. 10, 13
Beladruz, i. 60
Bell, Colonel S., on Van, ii. 338, 340
Berigun, ii. 23
Berwar-Lata valley, ii. 323
Besitun range, i. 98, 119;
village, 121, 122
Bideshk, i. 236
Bihishtabad, the _Mansion of Heaven_, ii. 3
Bijar, ii. 173, 178
Bijilan mountain, ii. 368
Bilar, ii. 323
Bingol Dagh, ii. 370
Bitlis, ii. 341, 350;
trade, 351;
population, 352;
Christian Mission at, 354;
school, 355;
mineral springs, 359;
valley, 349
Blizzards, i. 95, 123, 154, 235; ii. 370
Boka, i. 129
"Boy," a pet horse, ii. 135
Bread-making, Persian, i. 159
Browne, Mr., ii. 284, 317-319
Bruce, Dr., i. 5, 46, 248, 252
---- Mrs., i. 245
Buffaloes, ii. 212
Burujird, town of, ii. 124;
"tribute insurrection," 127;
population, 130;
manufactures, 130;
prosperity, 131;
plain of, 124
Bushire, i. 1;
commerce of, 3
C
Canals, i. 51
Caravan, fate of a, i. 133
Caravans, i. 50; ii. 388;
collision of, i. 91, 144
Caravanserai, dirt of a, i. 81-83
Carmelite monks, French, i. 37
Carpets, Persian, i. 109
_Chadar_, i. 17
Chahar Bagh bridge, i. 258
---- Mahals or four districts, i. 308, 361
Chaharta, i. 359
Chaldaean plains, i. 14
Challeh Kuh, peak of, i. 370
Chalonitis, i. 85
Chaman Kushan, plain of, ii. 28
_Chapi_, Bakhtiari dance, i. 356
Charmi village, i. 307
Charzabar Pass, i. 94
Cherri Pass, ii. 13
Cheshmeh-i-Charzabar torrent, i. 95
Chesmeh-i-Gurab, i. 346
---- Zarin, plain of, ii. 24
Chigakhor, i. 348;
plain of, 369;
patients, 369;
"season," 370;
fort, 375
Child-life, Persian, i. 218
Chiraz, i. 358
Christian missions at Baghdad, i. 24;
at Bitlis, ii. 355;
at Erzerum, 382;
at Hamadan, 162,
result of, 164 _note_;
at Julfa, i. 248;
at Tihran, 188;
at Urmi, ii. 221-234,
history of, 226,
results, 229;
at Van, 335 _note_
"Christians of St. John," i. 17
Cochrane, Dr., ii. 224
Ctesiphon, ruins of, i. 22
Curzon, Mr. G., letter to the _Times_, i. 198;
on Julfa, 246
D
Dalonak, peak of, ii. 16
Darkash Warkash, i. 317
Dastagird, i. 60
Dastgird, i. 376
"Date boils," i. 39
---- palms, i. 8
Daulatabad, ii. 140
"David's Fort," i. 86
Dead, mode of carrying, i. 36, 168
Dehnau village, i. 353
Demavend, cone of, i. 176, 240
"Demon wind," the, i. 127
Dervishes, i. 236-238
"Desert," the, i. 48
Deswali, ii. 134
Deveh Boyun, ii. 385
Dilakoff, Yacub, ii. 223 _note_
Dilleh, peak of, ii. 22
Dima, ii. 19, 25
Dinarud river, i. 348
Dissa, ii. 216
Diyalah, i. 51, 60
Diz Arjanak, ii. 82
Diza, ii. 276;
reduction of the garrison, 276;
first visit to a Turkish official, 277
Dizabad, i. 140;
ruins of, 142
Dizful or Bridge of Diz, ii. 71
Drinayi Pass, ii. 275
Duab river, ii. 11
Duashda Imams, i. 343
Dukkani-Daoud or David's shop, i. 85, 87
Dupulan, i. 351;
Pass, 352
E
Elam, Upper, ii. 34
Elburz mountains, i. 176, 225
Elijeh, ii. 386
Elwend, Mount, ii. 144
England, native opinions of, i. 19, 73, 171, 198; ii. 7, 79, 128,
199, 272
Erzerum, ii. 381;
Christian mission at, 382;
trade, 383;
"sights," 383;
"troubles," 383;
Sanassarian College, 385
Esther and Mordecai, tomb of, ii. 153
Etiquette, code of, i. 105
Euphrates, ii. 365, 368
Eyal, hamlet of, ii. 275
Ezra, tomb of, i. 13
F
Faidun, ii. 47
Fao, i. 5
Fath' Ali Shah, i. 170
Fatima, shrine of, i. 167-169;
pilgrimages to, 167
Feraghan, plain of, i. 151;
carpets, 151;
salt lake, 158
Fire-worshippers, i. 194
Fraser, Mr. Baillie, _Travels in Kurdistan_, i. 28
Frat, the, ii. 386
G
Gaberabad, caravanserai of, i. 232
Gahgoran, ii. 282;
night alarm, 283
Gal-i-Bard-i-Jamal Pass, ii. 26, 36
Gal-i-Gav Pass, ii. 34, 39
Gamasiab river, i. 123, 125
Gandaman, plain of, i. 361;
village, 363
Gardan-i-Cherri, ii. 13, 19
Gardan-i-Gunak, ii. 71
Gardan-i-Rukh, i. 308
Gardan-i-Tak-i-Girreh, i. 88
Gardan-i-Tir-Machi, ii. 188
Gardan-i-Zirreh, i. 313
Garden of Eden, i. 13
Gargunak, ii. 19
Gartak, ii. 45
Gas Khana marsh, i. 301
Gates, language of, i. 271
Gaukhaud, ii. 168, 176
Gawar, plain of, ii. 275;
request for teachers, 281
Geog-tapa, ii. 219;
church, 243;
orphanage, 244
Geokahaz, ii. 188;
cleanliness, 192
Getchid, ii. 389
Gez, i. 240, 242
Ghazit village, ii. 346
Ghazloo Pass, ii. 368;
village, 369
Gil-i-Shah Pass, ii. 31
Givr, i. 161
Gokun, ii. 41;
river, 45
_Gopher_, a, i. 19
Gorab, plateau of, ii. 15;
serious incident, 17
Gudzag, ii. 360
Gulabek, i. 183
Gumushkhane valley, ii. 391
Gurab plain, i. 346
Gur[=a]ns, the, i. 86
Guwa river, ii. 49
H
Hadji Hussein, plain of, ii. 203
Haizdar or Haigatsor plain, ii. 332, 341
_Hak[=i]ms_, female, ii. 74;
remedies, 74;
diseases, 75
Hamadan, ii. 134, 148;
ruinous condition, 149;
bazars, 150;
_namads_ or felts, 151;
intemperance, 152;
tomb of Esther and Mordecai, 153;
tablets, 154;
degradation of the Jews, 155;
inhabitants, 155, 156;
Faith Hubbard school, 160;
Medical mission at, 162;
visitors, 162;
Christian mission at, 164;
travelling arrangements, 165
Hamilabad, i. 127, 134;
a diseased crowd, 135
Hamrin hills, i. 59
Hamzikeuy, Greek village, ii. 394
Handawan, pass of, ii. 124
Harta village, ii. 378
Harunabad, i. 94
Hashal river, ii. 341
Hassan-Kaleh, fortress of, ii. 381
Hassan Khan, ruined fort, i. 123
Hesso Khan, a Kurdish chief, ii. 264;
costume, 265
Holiwar valley, ii. 95, 104
Holwan, i. 63, 81, 85
Horses, Arab, i. 118.
---- Bakhtiari, ii. 117
---- Persian, i. 190;
clothing, 185; ii. 136;
food, 137
"Hospital Sunday," i. 155
Husseinabad, i. 134, 176, 212
I
Ilyat villages, i. 78, 81;
camps, 84, 314; ii. 193, 205;
costume, i. 316;
familiarity, ii. 194
Imamzada-i-Mamil, ii. 118
Imamzada torrent, i. 350
Imam Kuli Khan, Ilkhani, i. 325
Inda Khosh, ii. 206
Indo-European telegraph line, i. 227
Inn, Turkish, i. 52
Irene, Lake, ii. 87, 88
Isfahan, i. 244;
bridges, 258;
dyed fabrics, 258;
_Medresseh_, armoury, 266;
trade, 267;
_Farhang_ newspaper, 268;
manufactures, 269;
climate, 269
Isfandyar Khan, Ilbegi, i. 328;
_haram_, 332-335
J
Jabali-Besitun range, i. 112, 119
Jafirabad, ii. 184
Jagatsu river, ii. 197
Jairud, i. 158;
fruit exported, 158
Jalanda mountain, ii. 50
Jamilabad village, ii. 143
Jan Mir, sheikh, i. 79
Jehanbin, i. 312
Jelu ranges, ii. 281, 325
Julfa, i. 227, 243;
"alleys," 246;
society, 247;
history, 248;
church missions at, 248;
schools, 250:
mission house, 251;
picnics, 257;
"city of waters," 269;
preparations for journey, 281-285
K
_Kabobs_, Persian dish, ii. 139
Kahva Rukh, i. 300, 308;
patients, 309;
nocturnal robbery, 311
Kaisruh mountain, ii. 11
Kaj, ii. 3
_Kajawehs_ or panniers, i. 118
Kala Kuh, ii. 58, 65
Kalahoma, ii, 47, 50;
patients, 51
Kalhurs, the, i. 86
_Kalian_, or water pipe, i. 107
Kalla Khanabad, ii. 105
Kamand-Ab, ii. 124
Kamarun, ii. 47
Kamerlan Pass, ii. 325
_Kanaats_, i. 241
Kandal Pass, ii. 285
Kangawar, i. 131
Kanisairani summits, ii. 276
Kar Kanun, ii. 27
Kara Kapru, ii. 369
Karabul[=a]k, Kurdish village, ii. 182
Karachai river, ii. 196
Karaftu, fortress palace of, ii. 194
Karasu river, i. 112, 114
_Karsi_ or platform, i. 132
Karun river, i. 5, 342, 351; ii. 23, 29;
trade on, i. 10, 12;
its tributaries, ii. 30
Kashan, i. 220;
telegraph station, 227;
manufactures, 230;
_reflet_ tiles, 231
Kashava, ii. 202
Kashgan, ii. 120
Kasr-i-Kajar, i. 195
Kasr-i-Shirin, i. 79;
ruins of, 80;
romantic legends, 80 _note_
Kasrik Kala Pass, ii. 332
Kasseinabad, i. 226
_Katirgis_ or muleteers, i. 50
Kavir or Great Salt Desert, i. 174, 177
Kavrak, defiles of, ii. 196
Kazimain, i. 23
Kerbela, "Dead March," i. 35, 36;
pilgrims to, ii. 189-191
Kerkhah, i. 94
_Ketchuda_ or headman, i. 329;
duties, 377
Khana Mirza plain, i. 360
Khanjarak, ii. 329;
poverty, 330;
church, 330
Khannikin, i. 61;
_haram_, 66, 71;
trade, 69;
peasant life, 74-76
Kharba valley, ii. 36
Khariji village, i. 312
Kharshut valley, ii. 391;
village, 392
Khashmaghal village, ii. 184
Kherson valley, ii. 19
Khosroe Parviz, legend, i. 80 _note_
Khuramabad, ii. 103, 120;
dirt and squalor, 122;
Bala Hissar fort, 123
Killa Bazuft, ii. 8, 19
Kirmanshah, i. 98;
population, 101;
street, 102;
inhabitants, 102;
customs, 103;
punishment, forms of, 103;
reception by the Governor, 103;
the Citadel, 104;
code of etiquette, 105,
of pipes, 107;
rugs, 109;
carpet-weaving, 110;
soldiers, 111;
lanterns, 111;
horses, 118
Kirrind, i. 84, 92;
plain of, 87;
valley, 90
Kizil Kabr, red range of, ii. 197
---- Robat, i. 53;
dirt and discomfort, 60
---- Uzen stream, ii. 180
Knapp, Mr. and Mrs., ii. 355
Kochanes, ii. 261, 286;
Mar Shimun the Patriarch, 288-294;
church, 296-302;
cattle plague, 319
Kooltapa, ii. 169;
robbery, 171
Kop Dagh, ii. 387
---- Khane, ii. 388
Kornah, i. 13
Kotranis, ii. 323
_Kourbana_, celebration of the, ii. 310
_Kufas_ or _gophers_, i. 18
Kuh-i-Bozah, i. 129
Kuh-i-Dinar, ii. 2
Kuh-i-Gerra, ii. 2
Kuh-i-Haft Kuh, ii. 94
Kuh-i-Hassan, i. 129
Kuh-i-Kaller, i. 360
Kuh-i-Milli, ii. 12
Kuh-i-Nassar, i. 313
Kuh-i-Paran, i. 129
Kuh-i-Rang, ii. 34
Kuh-i-Sabz, i. 316
Kuh-i-Shahan, ii. 26