artists and amateur photographers that it is a relief to get away to a
district not quite so well known. We have left to the last, as a fitting
climax, the most beautiful bit of country, not only in the neighborhood of
Naples, but in the whole of South Italy. The coast-road from Castellamare
to Sorrento, Positano, and Amalfi offers a delightful alternation and
combination of the softest idyllic scenery with the wildest and most
magnificent mountain and crag landscape. In fact, it is necessary to
exercise some self-restraint in language and to curb a temptation to
rhapsodize when describing this beautiful region. The drive from Naples to
Castellamare is almost one continuous suburb, and the change from this
monotonous succession of streets of commonplace houses to the beautiful
country we reach soon after leaving the volcanic district at Castellamare
is very marked. In the course of our journey we cannot help noticing the
bright yellow patches of color on the beach and the flat house-tops. This
is the wheat used for the manufacture of macaroni, of which Torre dell'
Annunziata is the great center. All along the road the houses, too, have
their loggias and balconies festooned with the strips of finished macaroni
spread out to dry. All this lights up the dismal prospect of apparently
never-ending buildings, and gives a literally local color to the district.
There is not much to delay the traveller in Castellamare, and soon after
leaving the overcrowded and rather evil-smelling town we enter upon the
beautiful coast-road to Sorrento. For the first few miles the road runs
near the shore, sometimes almost overhanging the sea. We soon get a view
of Vico, picturesquely situated on a rocky eminence. The scenery gets
bolder as we climb the Punta di Scutola. From this promontory we get the
first glimpse of the beautiful Piano di Sorrento. It looks like one vast
garden, so thickly is it covered with vineyards, olive groves, and orange
and lemon orchards, with an occasional aloe and palm tree to give an
Oriental touch to the landscape. The bird's-eye view from the promontory
gives the spectator a general impression of a carpet, in which the
prevailing tones of color are the richest greens and gold. Descending to
this fertile plateau, we find a delightful blending of the sterner
elements of the picturesque with the pastoral and idyllic. The plain is
intersected with romantic, craggy ravines and precipitous, tortuous
gorges, resembling the ancient stone quarries of Syracuse, their rugged
sides covered with olives, wild vines, aloes, and Indian figs. The road to
Amalfi here leaves the sea and is carried through the heart of this rich
and fertile region, and about three miles from Sorrento it begins to climb
the little mountain range which separates the Sorrento plain from the Bay
of Salerno.
We can hardly, however, leave the level little town, consecrated to
memories of Tasso, unvisited. Its flowers and its gardens, next to its
picturesque situation, constitute the great charm of Sorrento. It seems a
kind of garden-picture, its peaceful and smiling aspect contrasting
strangely with its bold and stern situation. Cut off, a natural fortress,
from the rest of the peninsula by precipitous gorges, like Constantine in
Algeria, while its sea-front consists of a precipice descending sheer to
the water's edge, no wonder that it invites comparison with such
dissimilar towns as Grasse, Monaco, Amalfi and Constantine, according to
the aspect which first strikes the visitor. After seeing Sorrento, with
its astonishing wealth of flowers, the garden walls overflowing with
cataracts of roses, and the scent of acacias, orange and lemon flowers
pervading everything, we begin to think that, in comparing the outlying
plain of Sorrento to a flower-garden, we have been too precipitate.
Compared with Sorrento itself, the plain is but a great orchard or
market-garden. Sorrento is the real flower-garden, a miniature Florence,
"the village of flowers and the flower of villages."
We leave Sorrento and its gardens and continue our excursion to Amalfi and
Salerno. After reaching the point at the summit of the Colline del Piano,
whence we get our first view of the famous Isles of the Syrens, looking
far more picturesque than inviting, with their sharp, jagged outline, we
come in sight of a magnificent stretch of cliff and mountain scenery. The
limestone precipices extend uninterruptedly for miles, their outline
broken by a series of stupendous pinnacles, turrets, obelisks, and
pyramids cutting sharply into the blue sky-line. The scenery, though so
wild and bold is not bleak and dismal. The bases of these towering
precipices are covered with a wild tangle of myrtle, arbutus, and
tamarisk, and wild vines and prickly pears have taken root in the ledges
and crevices. The ravines and gorges which relieve the uniformity of this
great sea-wall of cliff have their lower slopes covered with terraced and
trellised orchards of lemons and oranges, an irregular mass of green and
gold. Positano, after Amalfi, is certainly the most picturesque place on
these shores, and, being less known, and consequently not so much
reproduced in idealized sketches and "touched up" photographs as Amalfi,
its first view must come upon the traveller rather as a delightful
surprise. Its situation is curious. The town is built along each side of a
huge ravine, cut off from access landwards by an immense wall of
precipices. The houses climb the craggy slopes in an irregular
ampitheater, at every variety of elevation and level, and the views from
the heights above give a general effect of a cataract of houses having
been poured down each side of the gorge. After a few miles of the grandest
cliff and mountain scenery we reach the Capo di Conca, which juts out into
the bay, dividing it into two crescents. Looking west, we see a broad
stretch of mountainous country, where
"... A few white villages
Scattered above, below, some in the clouds,
Some on the margins of the dark blue sea,
And glittering through their lemon groves, announce
The region of Amalfi."
To attempt to describe Amalfi seems a hopeless task. The churches, towers,
and arcaded houses, scattered about in picturesque confusion on each side
of the gigantic gorge which cleaves the precipitous mountain, gay with the
rich coloring of Italian domestic architecture, make up an indescribably
picturesque medley of loggias, arcades, balconies, domes, and cupolas,
relieved by flat, whitewashed roofs. The play of color produced by the
dazzling glare of the sun and the azure amplitude of sea and sky gives
that general effect of light, color, sunshine, and warmth of atmosphere
which is so hard to portray, either with the brush or the pen. Every nook
of this charming little rock-bound Eden affords tempting material for the
artist, and the whole region is rich in scenes suggestive of poetical
ideas.
When we look at the isolated position of this once famous city, shut off
from the rest of Italy by a bulwark of precipices, in places so
overhanging the town that they seem to dispute its possession with the
tideless sea which washes the walls of the houses, it is not easy to
realize that it was recognized in mediæval times as the first naval Power
in Europe, owning factories and trading establishments in all the chief
cities of the Levant, and producing a code of maritime laws whose leading
principles have been incorporated in modern international law. No traces
remain of the city's ancient grandeur, and the visitor is tempted to look
upon the history of its former greatness as purely legendary.
The road to Salerno is picturesque, but not so striking as that between
Positano and Amalfi. It is not so daringly engineered, and the scenery is
tamer. Vietri is the most interesting stopping-place. It is beautifully
situated at the entrance to the gorge-like valley which leads to what has
been called the "Italian Switzerland," and is surrounded on all sides by
lemon and orange orchards. Salerno will not probably detain the visitor
long, and, in fact, the town is chiefly known to travellers as the
starting-place for the famous ruins of Pæstum.
These temples, after those of Athens, are the best preserved, and
certainly the most accessible, of any Greek ruins in Europe, and are a
lasting witness to the splendor of the ancient Greek colony of Poseidonia
(Pæstum). "_Non cuivis homini contingit adire Corinthum_," says the poet,
and certainly a visit to these beautiful ruins will make one less regret
the inability to visit the Athenian Parthenon. Though the situation of
the Pæstum Temple lacks the picturesque irregularity of the Acropolis,
and the Temple of Girgenti in Sicily, these ruins will probably impress
the imaginative spectator more. Their isolated and desolate position in
the midst of this wild and abandoned plain, without a vestige of any
building near, suggest an almost supernatural origin, and give a weird
touch to this scene of lonely and majestic grandeur. There seems a
dramatic contrast in bringing to an end at the solemn Temples of Pæstum
our excursion in and around Naples. We began with the noise, bustle, and
teeming life of a great twentieth-century city, and we have gone back some
twenty-five centuries to the long-buried glory of Greek civilization.
INDEX
A
Aboukir, and Nelson's victory, 253-255
About, Edmond, on the importance of Marseilles, 95
Abruzzi Mountains, 326
Aba-Abul-Hajez, builder of Moorish Castle, Gibraltar, 15
Abyla, Phoenician name of Ceuta, 26
Aci Castello, 300
Aci Reale, 300
Acis and Galatea, 300
Æneas and the games at Trapani, 318
Africa, "Crystal atmosphere" of, 5
Agate Cape, 57
Agay, 148
Agnone, 302
Alameda Gardens, Gibraltar, 13
Alassio, 159
Alban, Mont, 143
Alcantara, Valley of the, 300
Alexander the Great, founding Alexandria, 237
Alexandria, 96;
appearance from the sea, 235;
historical interest, 236;
Alexander's choice of the site, 237;
harbor, 238;
main street, 240;
Grand Square, 241;
Palace of Ras-et-teen, 243;
view from Mount Caffarelli and the Delta, 244;
Pompey's Pillar, 246;
Library, 247;
the Serapeum, cemeteries, mosques, Coptic convent, and historic
landmarks, 248;
defeat of Antony, and Napoleon, 251;
Ramleh, 251;
Temple of Arsenoe, 252;
Aboukir Bay and Nelson, 253, 254;
Rosetta, Haroun Al Rashid, and the English expedition of 1807, 256;
fertility of the Delta, 258;
Cairo and the rising of the Nile, 260;
Damietta, 261;
Port Said, 261, 262;
ruins of Pelusium, 263;
Suez Canal and M. de Lesseps, 264
Algeciras, 4, 23, 24
Algeria, 78, 97
Algiers, 96, 123;
"a pearl set in emeralds," 28;
the approach to, and the Djurjura, 29;
the Sahel, Atlas, and the ancient and modern towns, 30;
cathedral and mosque, 31;
tortuous plan of the new town, 33, 34;
Mustapha Supérieur, and English colony, 35, 37;
a Moorish villa, 38;
view from El Biar, Arab cemetery, and idolatry, 39;
superstitions and climate, 41
Alhendin, 59
Ali, Mehemet, 239;
his works in Alexandria, 241, 242;
destroys English troops at Rosetta, 257
Almeria, 55, 56, 57
Alps, The, 131;
the Julian, 147, 148, 154
Alpujarras, The, 44, 55
Altinum, 231
Amalfi, 345, 347, 349
Amru, 236
Amsterdam and its canals, 219
Anacapri, 344
Anchises, 318
André, St., 139, 143
Angelo, Michael, and the marble quarries at Seravezza, 197
Ansedonia, 211
Antibes, 96, 147, 151, 152
Antipolis, 151
Antony, Mark, defeated by Octavius at Mustapha Pacha, 251
Apes' Hill, English designation of Ceuta, 26
Aquæ Sextiæ, or Aix, Roman colony on the site of Marseilles, 109
Arabic legend and the Moorish Castle, Gibraltar, 15
Aragon, Kings of, Palace of the, at Barcelona, 67, 83
Arbiter, Petronius, 122
Aristophanes, and the sausage-seller, 148
Arles, 110
Arsenoe, Temple of, and the story related by Catullus, 252
Aryan Achæans, 108
Aryan and Semite struggle against Christianity and Mohammedanism, 4
Athanasius at Alexandria, 236
Athens, 96
Atlantic, Ideas of ancient Greeks respecting the, 2
Atlas, Mount, 29
Attard, "village of roses," 291
Attila, 233
Augustine, St., and the angel, 213;
at St. Honorat, 150
Augustus, and Turbia, 153
Autran, Joseph, 122
Avenza, 195
Avernus, 338
Avignon, 96
B
Bab-el-Sok, gate of the market-place at Tangier, 6
Baiæ, 339
Balzac, witty remark on dinners in Paris, 89
Balzan, 291
Barbaroux, 122
Barcelona, 21, 95, 123;
eulogy of Cervantes, the promenades and the people, 61;
funerals, and the flower-market, 62;
streets, Rambla, and cathedral, 65;
Palais de Justice, and Parliament House, 66;
Palace of the kings of Aragon, 67;
museum, park, and monuments to Prim and Columbus, 69;
bird's-eye view, Fort of Montjuich, Mont Tibidaho, 70;
cemetery and mode of burial, 71;
festival of All Saints, 72;
Catalonia, and the church of Santa Maria del Mar, 74;
organ in cathedral, and the suburbs, 77;
Gracia, 77;
Sarria, 78;
Barceloneta, 79;
Academy of Arts, schools, music, the University, and workmen's clubs,
80;
Archæological Society, primary education, and places of amusement, 82;
history of, 83;
trade, healthful properties, and charitable institutions, 84;
churches, convents, electric lighting, population, and Protestantism,
86;
democracy, and holidays of, 87;
Mariolatry, 88;
Caballaro, 89;
climate, 90;
hotels, 90;
good looks of the men and women, the police, 92;
progressive tendencies, the post-office and passports, 93
Barco, Hamilcar, founder of Barcelona, 82
Barral des Baux, 121
Barthélemy, 122
Baths of Barcelona, 90;
of Cleopatra, 250;
of Caratraca, 44
Bay of Biscay, 1
"Belgium of the East," The, 251
Bellet, Le, 139
Belzunce, Monseigneur, and the plague at Marseilles, 113, 114
Bentinck, Lord W., and his attack on Genoa, 166
Bérenger, 122
Berenice, and the Temple of Arsenoe, 252
Bighi, 288
Boabdil, last king of Granada, 59
Boccaccio, and the church of St. Lorenzo, Naples, 232
Bordighera, 158
Boron, Mont, 125
Bouchard, M., and the Egyptian stone at Rosetta, 257
Britain, and Tangier, 4;
and the acquisition of Gibraltar, 22
Browning, Robert, and Gibraltar, 6
Bruèys, Admiral, defeated by Nelson at Aboukir Bay, 254
Buena Vista, Gibraltar, 14, 23
Bull-fights at Barcelona, 82, 87;
at Malaga, 54
Burgundians, The, 109
Burmola, 289
Byng, Rear-Admiral, and the siege of Gibraltar, 22
C
Cabo de Bullones, Spanish name of Ceuta, 26
Cadiz Bay, 6
Café at Gibraltar, 11
Cagliari, 96
Cairo, 258;
rising of the Nile, 260
Cala Dueira, 271
Calpe, Rock of (Gibraltar), 2, 14
Camaldoli hills, 326
Campyses, at Pelusium, 262
Canal, Grand, at Venice, 222-228
Cannes, 125, 130;
"a Babel set in Paradise," 150;
principal streets, and origin, 151;
fortifications of Vauban, and Roman remains, 152
Capraja, 207
Capri, 326;
changes in appearance, 334;
its fascination, 339;
historical associations, 340;
palaces of Tiberias, 341;
its beautiful women, 342;
Blue Grotto, 343
Carabacel, 127, 138
Caratraca, Baths of, 44, 50
Carinthia, Dukes of, 233
Carlos, Don, and the rising in Barcelona, 84
Carnival at Nice, 133
Carqueyranne, 147
Carrara, church of St. Andrea, and the marble quarries, 196;
mosquitos, 197
Cartama, 51
Carthagenians, and Genoa, 162;
destruction of Selinus, 319
Casal Curmi, 291
Casal Nadur, 273
Cassian, St., and the monastery of St. Victor, Marseilles, 116
Castellaccio, Fort of, 297
Castellamare, 345
Castiglione della Pescaia, 209
Castile, 25
Castle, Moorish, at Gibraltar, 15
Catacombs at Alexandria, 249
Catania, 302
Cathedral, at Gibraltar, 13;
at Marseilles, 98;
at Genoa, 80;
at Barcelona, 65;
at Nice, 129;
at Almeria, 57;
at Algiers, 31;
at Pisa, 194;
St. Mark's, Venice, 224-226
Catullus, and his story relating to the temple of Arsenoe, 252
Cemetery at Alexandria, 248
Cervantes, eulogium on Barcelona, 61
Ceuta, 17;
origin of name and history of, 25;
main features of, 26;
ancient names, and shape of rock, 26
Champollion, M., and the Egyptian stone at Rosetta, 258
Charles Albert, King of Sardinia, and his palace at Genoa, 172
"Charles III., King," 21, 22
Charles V., 20
Château d'If, 105
Chiavari, 186
Chioggia, 230
Cholera, The, at Marseilles, 112
Cimiez, 127, 138;
monastery and amphitheatre of, 139, 142
Civita Vecchia, its founder and history, 213
Cleopatra, and Antony, at Alexandria, 236;
Baths of, at Alexandria, 250
Cleopatra's Needle, 246
Columbus, Monument to, at Genoa, 177;
monument at Barcelona, 69;
his reception at Barcelona by Ferdinand and Isabella, 69, 83
Cominetto, 270
Comino, 268, 272
Concha, General, and the sugar-cane industry of Malaga, 51
Constantinople, 95
Contes, 139
Convent, Coptic, at Alexandria, 248
Coneto, "lifts to heaven a diadem of towers," 212;
churches, Etruscan and Roman antiquities, and origin, 213
Cornigliano, 147
Corno, Remains of, 212
Corradino, 288
Cosspicua, 289
Cremation suggested for adoption in Barcelona, 71
Cressy, Battle of, 179
Cumæ, 333, 339
Cyclops, The, and the Scogli dei Ciclopi, 301
Cyrus, 94
D
Damanhour, 258
Damietta, 261
Darby, Admiral, and the siege of Gibraltar, 18
Delord, Taxile, 122
Delta, Egyptian, Fertility of the, 258
Djama-el-Kebir, Mosque at Tangier of the, 6
Djurjura, The, 29
Don, General, and the Alameda Gardens, Gibraltar, 13
Doria, Andrea, and his influence in Genoa, 164, 173;
incidents in his life, 176
Drinkwater, Captain John, and the siege of Gibraltar, 18
Dumas, Alexandre, allusion to Pozzuoli, 338
D'Urfé, 122
E
"Eagle-Catchers," The (87th Regiment), 4
Edward, son of King John of Portugal, and his expedition against
Tangier, 25
Egypt, variety of interest connected with, 238;
inscribed stone at Rosetta, 257;
agricultural wealth of, 258;
the "gift of the Nile," 259;
English expedition of 1807, 256
Elba, quarries and mines of, 203;
Napoleon's confinement, plans for improving the island, and his
escape, 203-206
El Hacho, signal-tower at Gibraltar, 16, 26
Elliot, General, Monument at Gibraltar to, 13;
the siege of Gibraltar, 17, 18
English statuary, Defective, 13
Eryx, 318
Esparto grass, 56
Espérandieu, and the church of Notre Dame de la Garde, Marseilles, 117
Estepona, 23
Estérel, The, 148, 150
Etna, 295-303
Etruscans, The, 211
Euganean Hills, The, 230
Eugénie, Empress, Spanish origin of, 55
Euroklydon, The, at Malta, 270
Europa Point, Gibraltar, 13;
cottage at, 14, 18
Euthymenes, 97;
statue at Marseilles, 100
F
Falicon, 139, 144
Famine at Genoa, 165
Ferdinand, Don, and the Portuguese at Ceuta, 25
Ferdinand and Isabella, reception of Columbus at Barcelona, 69, 83
Ferdinand IV., 317
Ferrat, Cape, 141
Fiescho, Count, 177
Filfla, 271
Flower Market, at Marseilles, 102;
at Barcelona, 63
Follonica, 209
Folquet, 121
Formica, 209
Fortifications of Gibraltar, 16;
of Genoa, 164;
of Cannes, 152;
Ventimiglia, 157
Fortuny, his paintings at Barcelona, 66, 80
Fossa Claudia, 230
France, and the siege of Gibraltar, 16;
captures Genoa, 164;
and Barcelona, 84
Fraser, General, and the English expedition to Egypt of 1807, 256
Frejus, Gulf of, 147
Funeral at Venice, A, 229
Funerals at Barcelona, 75
G
Galliera, Duchess of, and the Palazzo Rosso, Genoa, 172
Garibaldi, Birthplace of, 126;
crossing Calabria, 298;
landing at Marsala, 318
Genoa, once a rival of Venice, 160;
its detractors, 161;
the beauty of its women, 162;
history, 163, 164;
old and new towns, 166;
position, and view from the slopes, 166;
mediæval churches, narrowness of streets, and the _palazza_, 168;
the Via Nuova, 170;
Fergusson on the architecture of, 171;
the Palazzo Ducale, and the Statue of Hercules, 172, 173;
incidents in the life of Doria, 176;
monument to Columbus, 177;
the "old dogana," 179;
the Exchange, trade in coral, precious metals, and filigree work, 180;
the cathedral, 180;
reputed origin of, 182;
church of L'Annunziata, and the Campo Santo, 182;
the environs, 184;
meeting-place of the Rivieras, 185;
railway to Spezzia, and places on the coast, 187
George I., and Gibraltar, 22
Giardini, 298
Gibel Mo-osa, Moorish name of Ceuta, 26
Gibraltar, 4;
Robert Browning's reference to, 6;
resemblance to a lion, 7;
landing at, 8;
variety of nationalities at, 10;
picturesqueness, 10;
population, 11;
strict military regulations, and chief objects of interest, 12, 13;
Moorish Castle, 15;
fortifications, 16;
siege of, 16-19;
capitulation to the Prince of Hesse, 22;
the "key of the Mediterranean," 21
Girgenti, "City of Temples," monuments of Pagan worship, and Pindar's
designation, 307;
Temple of Concord, 309;
Temple of Hercules, ravages of earthquakes, and Shelley's allusion in
"Ozymandias," 311, 312
Golfe de la Napoule, 148
Gondolas of Venice, 222
Gothard, St., 228
Gough, Colonel, his defeat of Marshal Victor at Tarifa, 4
Government House at Gibraltar, 23
Gozo, 270, 272, 273
Granada, 17, 59
Greeks, at Gibraltar, 10;
their trade at Marseilles, 106, 109, 110
Grimaldi, The, 179
Gros, Mont, 139
Grosseto, 209
Grotto, at Malta and St. Paul, 293;
of Sta. Rosalia, 317;
Di Posilipo, 335;
at Capri, 343
Guelphs, The, and Genoa, 163
Guzman, Alonzo Perez de, and his act of defiance at Tarifa, 4
Gzeier, 271
H
Hamilcar Barca, and Pellegrino, 317
Hamrun, 291
Harbor of Marseilles, 106
Haroun al Rashid, reputed birthplace, 256
Hepaticas, Valley of, 139
"Hercules, Pillars of," 1, 2, 5, 17
Hercules and Temple at Girgenti, 311;
Temple at Selinunto, 319
Hesse, Prince of, and the acquisition of Gibraltar, 22
Hicks, Captain, and the siege of Gibraltar, 22
Hieroglyphics, Egyptian, at Rosetta, 257
Hiram, and Malaga, 46
Homeric era, "Pillars of Hercules" in the, 2
Honorat, St., 149
Hougoumont, Château of, 15
Hyères, 96, 146
Hypatia at Alexandria, 236
I
Iberian race of Genoa, 162
Imtarfa, 292
Ischia, 326
Islands of the Blest, 2
Israfel, The Angel, and a belief of the Moslems, 249
Ivory on houses in Tangier, 5
J
Jews, at Gibraltar, 10
John of Portugal, King, takes Ceuta from the Moors, 25
Joseph of Arimathea, and the _sacro catino_ at Genoa, 181
Jumper, Captain, and the siege of Gibraltar, 20
Jupiter, Temple of, at Ortygia, 304
K
Keats, Grave of, 194
L
La Haye, Farmhouse of, 15
La Mortola, Point, 157
_Laguna Morta_, The, at Venice, 230
Landslip at Roquebrune, 156
Lane-Poole, Mr. Stanley, and the Nile, 259
Las Palmas, 296
Lazarus, Legend respecting, at Marseilles, 116
Leghorn, its dullness, 163;
history, and canals, 201;
streets, harbor, trade, statue of Ferdinand, and burial-place of,
Smollett, 202
Lentini, 302
Leo, The constellation, and Berenice's locks, 252
Lepanto, Battle of, 221
Lerici, and Shelley's last days, 192
Lérins, Vincent de, at St. Honorat, 149
Lesseps, M. de, and the Suez Canal, 264
Lia, 291
Library, Garrison, at Gibraltar, 13;
at Alexandria, 247
Lighthouse of Ta Giurdan, 272
Liguria, noted for the cunning of its people, 162
Ligurian Sea, 146
Limpia, Harbor and village of, 127
Lion of St. Mark at Venice, 226
Lisbon, 21
Louis XIV., 97;
and the storming of Barcelona, 83
Luna, Remains of, 194
Lyons, Climate of, 90
M
Macgregor, Mr. John (Rob Roy), and the ruins of Tanis, 263
Magnan, The, 139
Malaga, 95;
rapid development, 43;
climate, general appearance, and convenient position for excursions,
44;
the Alpujarras, 44;
Phoenician origin, 46;
history, 48;
water supply, 48;
the vineyards, 50;
sugar industry, 51;
Castle, Grecian Temple, and the Alcazaba, 51;
attractiveness of the women, 54;
harbor, 53;
Almeria, 55;
Cape de Gatt, 57;
the Sierra Tejada, the Sierra Nevada, 58;
Trevelez and Alhendin, 59;
Lanjaron, the Muley Hacen, and the Picacho, 60
Malamocco, 230
Malta, 267;
"England's eye in the Mediterranean," 267;
formerly a peninsula of Africa, and its fertility, 268;
Gozo, Comino, and Cominetto, and the _Fungus Melitensis_, 270;
the Gozitans, 272
Man with the Iron Mask, 149
Maremma, The, 209
Marengo, Battle of, 165
Marfa, 274
Marguerite, Ste., 145
Mariette Bey and the ruins of Tanis, 263, 264
Mark, St., at Alexandria, 236;
reputed place of burial, 250;
Lion at Venice, 224
Marriages of Greeks at Marseilles, 107
Marsala, 318
Marseilles;
its Greek origin, and importance as the capital of the Mediterranean,
94;
history, 96, 109;
appearance from the sea, 97;
the Old Port and the Cannebière, 98, 99;
the Bourse, promenades, and statues of Pytheas and Euthymenes, 100;
flower market and the Prado, 102;
the Corniche road and _bouillabaisse_, 103, 104;
Public Garden, Château d'If, and the quays, 105;
harbors, Greek merchants, and marriage customs, 106-108;
Greek type in the physique of the people, 109;
hotels, cholera, plague, and the _mistral_, 112, 113;
Palais des Arts and the Church of St. Victor, 115, 116;
Church of Notre Dame de la Garde, 117;
Chain of Estaques, fortress, and people, 119;
birthplace of distinguished men, 121;
its proud position, 123
Martin, Cap, 156
Mary, The Virgin, image at St. Victor's, Marseilles, 119
Mascaron, 122
Massa, Quarries and palace at, 197
Massena, General, at Genoa, 165
Mediterranean, The deep interest connected with the cities and ruins on
the shores of the, 2;
Tarifa, 3, 4;
Tangier, 4-6;
Gibraltar, 6-18;
Algeciras, San Roque, and Estepona, 23;
Ceuta, 25, 26;
Marseilles, 94-123;
Genoa, 160-191;
Barcelona, 61-93;
Alexandria, 234-264;
Nice, 124-144;
Malta, 267-294;
Malaga, 42-60;
Algiers, 28-41;
Tuscan Coast, 192-218;
Sicily, 295-324;
Naples, 325-350;
Venice, 219-233;
The Riviera, 145-159
Megara, Bay of, 303
Mentone, 103;
mountain paths, 125, 131;
walks and drives at, 157, 158
Menzaleh, Lake, 262, 263
Mery, 122
Messina, route from Naples, 295;
general appearance, trade, cathedral, university, etc., 297
Minden, 19
Mirabeau imprisoned at Château d'If, 105
Misada, 291
_Mistral_, The, 112;
at Nice, 131
Mole at Gibraltar, 9, 14, 15, 20
Monaco, description of, 153, 155
Monreale, Cathedral and Abbey of, 316
Monte Carlo, 131;
its beauty, 155
Monte-Cristo and Château d'If, 105
Montpellier, 90
Monuments to Elliot and Wellington at Gibraltar, 13
Moorish Castle at Gibraltar, 15
Moors in Gibraltar, 10;
Ceuta taken from the, 25;
in Spain, 47
Mosque of the Djama-el-Kebir at Tangier, 6;
at Algiers, 31
Mosques of Alexandria, 250
Murano, 231
Musta, 292
Mustapha Pacha, 251
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