Chapter III

Aaron and Rosie Winters

While Bellerin’ Teck was selling half interests in the spectacular hills

to the unwary, he actually walked over a treasure of more millions than

his wildest dreams had conjured.

Teck’s nearest neighbor lived at Ash Meadows about 60 miles east of the

valley.

Ash Meadows is a flat desert area in Nevada along the California border.

With several water holes, subterranean streams, and abundant wild grass

it was a resting place for early emigrants and a hole-in for

prospectors. It was also an ideal refuge for gentlemen who liked its

distance from sheriffs and the ease with which approaching horsemen

could be seen from nearby hills.

Lacking was woman. The male needed the female but there wasn’t a white

woman in the country. So he took what the market afforded—a squaw and

not infrequently two or three. “He’s my son all right,” a patriarch once

informed me, “but it’s been so long I don’t exactly recollect which of

them squaws was his mother.”

Usually the wife was bought. Sometimes for a trinket. Often a horse.

Among the trappers who first blazed the trails to the West, 30 beaver

skins were considered a fair price for an able bodied squaw. She was

capable in rendering domestic service and loyal in love. Too often the

consort’s fidelity was transient.

“For 20 years,” said the noted trapper, Killbuck, “I packed a squaw

along—not one, but a many. First I had a Blackfoot—the darndest slut as

ever cried for fo-farrow. I lodge-poled her on Coulter’s Creek ... as

good as four packs of beaver I gave for old Bull-tail’s daughter. He was

the head chief of the Ricaree. Thar wan’t enough scarlet cloth nor beads

... in Sublette’s packs for her ... I sold her to Cross-Eagle for one of

Jake Hawkins’ guns.... Then I tried the Sioux, the Shian (Cheyenne) and

a Digger from the other side, who made the best moccasins as ever I

wore.”

So Aaron Winters chose his mate from the available supply and with

Rosie, part Mexican and Indian, part Spanish, he settled in Ash Meadows

in a dugout. In front and adjoining had been added a shack, part wood,

part stone. The floors were dirt. Rosie dragged in posts, poles, and

brush and made a shed. Aaron found time between hunting and trapping to

add a room of unmortared stone. At times there was no money, but piñon

nuts grew in the mountains, desert tea and squaw cabbage were handy and

the beans of mesquite could be ground into flour.

Rosie, to whom one must yield admiration, was not the first woman in

Winters’ life. “He liked his women,” Ed Stiles recalled, “and changed

’em often.” But to Rosie, Aaron Winters was always devoted. Her material

reward was little but all who knew her praised her beauty and her

virtues.

One day when dusk was gathering there was a rap on the sagging slab door

and Rosie Winters opened it on an angel unawares. The Winters invited

the stranger in, shared their meager meal. After supper they sat up

later than usual, listening to the story of the stranger’s travels. He

was looking for borax, he told them. “It’s a white stuff....” At this

time, only two or three unimportant deposits of borax were known to

exist in America and the average prospector knew nothing about it.

The first borax was mined in Tibet. There in the form of tincal it was

loaded on the backs of sheep, transported across the Himalayas and

shipped to London. It was so rare that it was sold by the ounce. Later

the more intelligent of the western prospectors began to learn that

borax was something to keep in mind.

To Aaron Winters it was just something bought in a drug store, but Rosie

was interested in the “white stuff.” She wanted to know how one could

tell when the white stuff was borax. Patiently the guest explained how

to make the tests: “Under the torch it will burn green....”

Finally Rosie made a bed for the wayfarer in the lean-to and long after

he blew out his candle Rosie Winters lay awake, wondering about some

white stuff she’d seen scattered over a flat down in the hellish heat of

Death Valley. She remembered that it whitened the crust of a big area,

stuck to her shoes and clothes and got in her hair when the wind lifted

the silt.

The next morning Rosie and Aaron bade the guest good luck and goodbye

and he went into the horizon without even leaving his name. Then Rosie

turned to Aaron: “Maybe,” she said ... “maybe that white stuff we see

that time below Furnace Creek—maybe that is borax.”

“Might be,” Aaron answered.

“Why don’t we go see?” Rosie asked. “Maybe some Big Horn sheep—” Rosie

knew her man and Aaron Winters got his rifle and Rosie packed the

sow-belly and beans.

It was a long, gruelling trip down into the valley under a Death Valley

sun but hope sustained them. They made their camp at Furnace Creek, then

Rosie led Aaron over the flats she remembered. She scooped up some of

the white stuff that looked like cotton balls while Aaron prepared for

the test. Then the brief, uncertain moment when the white stuff touched

the flame. Tensely they watched, Aaron grimly curious rather than

hopeful; Rosie with pounding heart and lips whispering a prayer.

Then, miracle of miracles—the green flame. They looked excitedly into

each other’s eyes, each unable to believe. In that moment, Rosie, always

devout, lifted her eyes to heaven and thanked her God. Neither had any

idea of the worth of their find. Vaguely they knew it meant spending

money. A new what-not for Rosie’s mantel. Perhaps pine boards to cover

the hovel’s dirt floor; maybe a few pieces of golden oak furniture; a

rifle with greater range than Aaron’s old one; silk or satin to make a

dress for Rosie.

“Writers have had to draw on their imagination for what happened,” a

descendant of the Winters once told me. “They say Uncle Aaron exclaimed,

‘Rosie, she burns green!’ or ‘Rosie, we’re rich!’ but Aunt Rosie said

they were so excited they couldn’t remember, but she knew what they did!

They went over to the ditch that Bellerin’ Teck had dug to water the

ranch and in its warm water soaked their bunioned feet.”

Returning to Ash Meadows they faced the problem of what to do with the

“white stuff.” Unlike gold, it couldn’t be sold on sight, because it was

a new industry, and little was known about its handling. Finally Aaron

learned that a rich merchant in San Francisco, named Coleman was

interested in borax in a small way and lost no time in sending samples

to Coleman.

W. T. Coleman was a Kentucky aristocrat who had come to California

during the gold rush and attained both fortune and the affection of the

people of the state. He had been chosen leader of the famed Vigilantes,

who had rescued San Francisco from a gang of the lawless as tough as the

world ever saw.

Actually Coleman’s interest in borax was a minor incident in the

handling of his large fortune and his passionate devotion to the

development of his adopted state. For that reason alone, Coleman had

become interested in the small deposits of borax discovered by Francis

Smith, first at Columbus Marsh.

Smith had been a prospector before coming to California, wandering all

over western country, looking for gold and silver. He was one of those

who had heard that borax was worth keeping in mind.

Reaching Nevada and needing a grubstake, he began to cut wood to supply

mines around Columbus, Aurora, and Candelaria. On Teel’s Marsh he found

a large growth of mesquite, built a shack and claimed all the wood and

the site as his own. Upon a portion of it, some Mexicans had cut and

corded some of the wood and Smith refused to let them haul it off. They

left grudgingly and with threats to return. The Mexicans, of course, had

as much right to the wood as Smith.

Sensing trouble and having no weapons at his camp, he went twelve miles

to borrow a rifle. But there were no cartridges and he had to ride sixty

miles over the mountains to Aurora where he found only four. Returning

to his shack, he found the Mexicans had also returned with

reinforcements. Twenty-four were now at work and their mood was

murderous. Smith had a companion whose courage he didn’t trust and

ordered him to go out in the brush and keep out of the way.

The Mexicans told Smith they were going to take the wood. Smith warned

that he would kill the first man who touched the pile. With only four

cartridges to kill 20 men, it was obviously a bluff. One of the Mexicans

went to the pile and picked up a stick. Smith put his rifle to his

shoulder and ordered the fellow to drop it. Unafraid and still holding

the stick the Mexican said: “You may kill me, but my friends will kill

you. Put your rifle down and we will talk it over.”

They had cut additional wood during his absence and demanded that they

be permitted to take all the wood they had cut. Smith consented and when

the Mexicans had gone he staked out the marsh as a mining claim—which

led to the connection with Coleman.

Upon receipt of Winters’ letter, Coleman forwarded it to Smith and asked

him to investigate the Winters claim. Smith’s report was enthusiastic.

Coleman then sent two capable men, William Robertson and Rudolph

Neuenschwander to look over the Winters discovery, with credentials to

buy. Again Rosie and Aaron Winters heard the flutter of angel wings at

the hovel door. This time the angels left $20,000. Rarely in this world

has buyer bought so much for so little, but to Aaron and Rosie Winters

it was all the money in the world.

Despite the troubles of operating in a place so remote from market and

with problems of a product about which too little was known, borax was

soon adding $100,000 a year to Coleman’s already fabulous fortune.

Francis M. (Borax) Smith was put in charge of operations under the firm

name of Coleman and Smith.

Freed from the sordid squalor of the Ash Meadows hovel, the Winters

bought the Pahrump Ranch, a landmark of Pahrump Valley, and settled down

to watch the world go by.

Thus began the Pacific Coast Borax Company, one of the world’s

outstanding corporations. Later Smith was to become president of the

Pacific Coast Borax Company and later still, he was to head a three

hundred million dollar corporation for the development of the San

Francisco and Oakland areas and then face bankruptcy and ruin.

Overlooking the site where Rosie and Aaron made the discovery, now

stands the magnificent Furnace Creek Inn.

One day while sitting on the hotel terrace, I noticed a plane discharge

a group of the Company’s English owners and their guests. Meticulously

dressed, they paid scant attention to the desolation about and hastened

to the cooling refuge of their caravansary. At dinner they sat down to

buttered mignon and as they talked casually of the races at Ascot and

the ball at Buckingham Palace, I looked out over that whitehot slab of

hell and thought of Rosie and Aaron Winters trudging with calloused feet

behind a burro—their dinner, sow-belly and beans.

Loafing along Death Valley trails · 第 3 / 25 章