the north, and we weighed, with the tide in our favour: it was then
ebbing, and set to the westward. The winds soon shifted to W. and W. S.
W. and we could never gain the Isle Rupert, with the favourable tide.
The frigate sailed very ill; drove to leeward beyond measure; and the
Etoile had an incredible advantage over us. We plyed all day between
Rupert island, and a head-land of the continent, which we called the
Point of the Passage, in order to wait for the ebb; with which I hoped
either to gain the anchoring-place of Bay Dauphine, upon the isle of
Louis le Grand, or that of Elizabeth bay[87]. But as we lost ground by
plying, I sent a boat to sound to the S. E. of Rupert’s-island,
intending to anchor there, till the tide became favourable. They made
signal of an anchoring-place, and came to a grapnel there; but we were
already too much fallen to leeward of it. We made one board in-shore, to
endeavour to gain it on the other tack; the frigate missed stays twice;
and it became necessary to wear; but at the very moment when, by the
manœuvres, and by the help of our boats, she began to wear, the force of
the tide made her come to the wind again; a strong current had already
carried us within half a cable’s length of the shore. We let go our
anchor in eight fathom: the anchor, falling upon rocks, came home, and
our proximity to the shore did not allow us to veer away cable. We had
now no more than three fathom and a half of water a-stern; and were only
thrice the length of the ship from the shore, when a little breeze
sprung up from thence, we immediately filled our sails, and the frigate
fell to leeward: all our boats, and those of the Etoile, which came to
our assistance, were a-head, towing her. We veered away our cable, upon
which we had put a buoy; and near half of it was out, when it got foul
between decks, and stopt the frigate, which then ran the greatest
danger. We cut the cable, and by the prompt execution of this manœuvre,
we saved the ship. The breeze at length freshened; and, after having
made two or three unprofitable boards, I returned to Port Galant, where
we anchored again in twenty fathom oozy bottom. Our boats, which I left
to weigh our anchor, returned towards night with it and the cable. Thus
this appearance of fine weather served only to give us cruel alarms.
[Sidenote: Violent hurricane.]
The day following was more stormy than all the preceding ones. The wind
raised a mountainous sea in the channel; and we often saw several waves
run in contrary directions. The storm appeared to abate towards ten
o’clock; but at noon a clap of thunder, the only one we ever heard in
this strait, was as it were the signal at which the wind again began to
blow with more violence than in the morning. We dragged our anchor, and
were obliged to let go our sheet-anchor, and strike our lower-yards and
top-masts. Notwithstanding this, the shrubs and plants were now in
flower, and the trees afforded a very brilliant verdure, which however
was not sufficient to dispel that sadness which the repeated sight of
this unlucky spot had cast over us. The most lively temper would be
overcome in this dreadful climate, which is shunned by animals of every
element, and where a handful of people lead a languid life, after having
been rendered still more unfortunate by their intercourse with us.
[Sidenote: Assertion concerning the channel of Sainte Barbe discussed.]
On the 18th and 19th there were some intervals between the bad weather:
we weighed our sheet anchor, squared our yards, and set up our
top-masts; and I sent the Etoile’s barge, which was in so good a
condition as to be able to go out in almost any weather, to view the
channel of _Sainte Barbe_. According to the extract M. Frezier gives of
the Journal of M. Marcant, who discovered and passed through it, this
channel must bear S. W. and S. W. by S. from Bay Elizabeth. The barge
returned on the 20th, and M. Landais, who commanded it, informed me,
that having followed the track and marks taken notice of by M. Marcant,
he had not found the true mouth, but only a narrow channel, closed by
shoals of ice and the land, which it is the more dangerous to follow, as
it has not a single good anchoring place, and as it is crossed in the
middle by a sand covered with muscles. He then went all round the isle
of Louis le Grand to the southward, and re-entered the channel of
Magalhaens, without having found any other. He only saw a fine bay on
the coast of Terra del Fuego, which is certainly the same with that
which Beauchesne calls Nativity Bay. Upon the whole, by going S. W. and
S. W. by S. from Bay Elizabeth, as Frezier says that Marcant did, you
must cut through the middle of the isle of Louis le Grand.
[Sidenote: It is inhabited, notwithstanding its small size.]
This information gave me room to believe that the channel of Sainte
Barbe was opposite the very bay where we now lay. From the top of the
mountains which surround Port Galant, we had often discovered southward
of the isles Charles and Monmouth, a vast channel, full of little
islands, and terminated by no land to the southward; but, as at the same
time we perceived another inlet southward of the isle of Louis le Grand,
we took that for the channel of St. Barbe, as being more conformable to
Marcant’s account. As soon as we were sure that this inlet was no more
than a deep bay, we no longer doubted that the channel of Sainte Barbe
was opposite Port Galant, southward of Charles and Monmouth Islands.
Indeed, reading over again the passage in Frezier, and comparing it with
his chart of the strait, we saw that Frezier, according to Marcant’s
report, places Elizabeth Bay, from whence the latter set sail, in order
to enter into his channel, about ten or twelve leagues from Cape
Forward. Marcant therefore must have mistaken Bay De Cordes for Bay
Elizabeth, the former lying actually eleven leagues from Cape Forward,
being a league eastward of Port Galant: setting sail from this bay, and
standing S. E. and S. E. by S. he came along the westermost point of
Charles and Monmouth isles, the whole of which he took for the isle of
Louis le Grand; an error into which every good navigator may easily
fall, unless he is well provided with good directions: and then he stood
into the channel full of isles, of which we had a prospect from the top
of the mountains.
[Sidenote: Utility which would accrue from the knowledge of
the channel of Sainte Barbe.]
The perfect knowledge of the channel of Sainte Barbe would be so much
the more interesting, as it would considerably shorten the passing of
the straits of Magalhaens. It does not take much time to come to Port
Galant; the greatest difficulty before you come there, being to double
Cape Forward, which is now rendered pretty easy, by the discovery of
three ports upon Terra del Fuego: when you are once got to Port Galant,
should the winds prevent your taking the ordinary channel, if they be
ever so little upon the northerly points, the channel is open to you,
opposite to this port; in twenty-four hours you can then be in the South
Seas. I intended to have sent two barges into this channel which I
firmly believe to be that of Sainte Barbe; they would have completely
solved this problem, but the bad weather prevented their going out.
[Sidenote: Exceeding violent squall.]
The 21st, 22d, and 23d, squalls, snow, and rain, were continual. In the
night between the 21st and 22d, there was a calm interval; it seemed
that the wind afforded us that momentary repose, only in order to fall
harder upon us afterwards. A dreadful hurricane came suddenly from S. S.
W. and blew with such fury as to astonish the oldest seamen. Both our
ships had their anchors come home, and were obliged to let go their
sheet-anchor, lower the lower yards, and hand the top-masts: our mizen
was carried away in the brails. Happily this hurricane did not last
long. On the 24th the storm abated, we got calm weather and sun-shine,
and put ourselves in a condition to proceed. Since our re-entering Port
Galant, we took several ton weight of ballast, and altered our stowage,
endeavouring by this means to make the frigate sail well again; and we
succeeded in part. Upon the whole, whenever it is necessary to navigate
in the midst of currents, it will always be found very difficult to
manage such long vessels as our frigates generally are.
[Sidenote: We leave Bay Fortescue.]
On the 25th, at one o’clock in the morning, we unmoored, and hove a
peek; at three o’clock we weighed, and were towed by our boats; the
breeze was northerly; at half past five it settled in the east, and we
set all our top-gallant and studding-sails, which are very seldom made
use of here. We kept the middle of the strait, following its windings,
for which Narborough justly calls it Crooked Reach. Between the Royal
Isles and the continent, the strait is about two leagues wide; the
channel between Rupert Isle and Point Passage, is not above a league
broad; then there is the breadth of a league and a half between the isle
of Louis le Grand and Bay Elizabeth, on the easterly point of which,
there is a ledge covered with sea weeds, extending a quarter of a league
into the sea.
[Sidenote: Description of the strait from Cape Galant to the open sea.]
From Bay Elizabeth the coast runs W. N. W. for about two leagues, till
you come to the river which Narborough calls Bachelor, and Beauchesne,
du Massacre; at the mouth of which, is an anchoring-place. This river is
easily known; it comes from a deep valley; on the west, it has a high
mountain; its westerly point is low, wooded, and the coast sandy. From
the river Bachelor, to the entrance of the false strait or St. Jerom’s
channel, I reckon three leagues, and the bearing is N. W. by W. The
entrance of this channel seems to be half a league broad, and in the
bottom of it, the lands are seen closing in to the northward. When you
are opposite the river du Massacre, or Bachelor, you can only see this
false strait, and it is very easy to take it for the true one, which
happened even to us, because the coast then runs W. by S. and W. S. W.
till Cape _Quade_, which stretching very far, seems to close in with the
westerly point of the isle of Louis le Grand, and leave no outlet. Upon
the whole, the safest way not to miss the true channel, is to keep the
coast of Louis le Grand island on board, which may be done without any
danger. The distance of St. Jerom’s channel to Cape Quade, is about four
leagues, and this cape bears E. 9° N. and W. 9° S. with the westerly
point of the isle of Louis le Grand.
That island is about four leagues long, its north side runs W. N. W. as
far as Bay Dauphine, the depth of which, is about two miles, and the
breadth at the entrance, half a league; it then runs W. to its most
westerly extremity, called Cape St. Louis. As, after finding out our
error concerning the false strait, we run within a mile of the shore of
Louis le Grand island, we distinctly saw Port Phelippeaux, which
appeared to be a very convenient and well situated creek. At noon Cape
Quade bore W. 13° S. two leagues distant, and Cape St. Louis, E. by N.
about two leagues and a half off. The fair weather continued all day,
and we bore away with all our sails set.
From Cape Quade the strait runs W. N. W. and N. W. by W. without any
considerable turnings, from which it has got the name of Long-Lane, or
Long-Reach, (_Longue Rue_). The figure of Cape Quade is remarkable. It
consists of craggy rocks, of which, those forming its highest summits,
do not look unlike ancient ruins. As far as this cape, the coasts are
every where wooded, and the verdure of the trees softens the aspect of
the frozen tops of the mountains. Having doubled Cape Quade, the nature
of the country is quite altered. The strait is inclosed on both sides by
barren rocks, on which there is no appearance of any soil. Their high
summits are always covered with snow, and the deep vallies are filled
with immense masses of ice, the colour of which bears the mark of
antiquity. Narborough, struck with this horrid aspect, called this part,
Desolation of the South, nor can any thing more dreadful be imagined.
Being opposite Cape Quade, the coast of Terra del Fuego seems terminated
by an advanced cape, which is Cape Monday, and which I reckon is about
fifteen leagues from Cape Quade. On the coast of the mainland, are three
capes, to which we gave names. The first, which from its figure, we
called _Cap Fendu_, or Split Cape, is about five leagues from Cape
Quade, between two fine bays, in which the anchorage is safe, and the
bottom as good as the sheltered situation. The other two capes received
the names of our ships, Cap de l’Etoile, three leagues west of Cap
Fendu, and Cap de la Boudeuse, in the same situation, and about the same
distance from the Cape of the Etoile. All these lands are high and
steep; both coasts appear clear, and seem to have good anchoring places,
but happily, the wind being fair for our course, did not give us time to
sound them. The strait in this part, called _Longue Rue_, is about two
leagues broad; it grows more narrow towards Cape Monday, where it is not
above four miles broad.
[Sidenote: Dangerous night.]
At nine o’clock in the evening, we were about three leagues E. by S. and
E. S. E. off Cape Monday. It always blew very fresh from east, and the
weather being fine, I resolved to continue my course during the night,
making little sail. We handed the studding sails, and close-reefed the
top-sails. Towards ten o’clock at night the weather became foggy, and
the wind encreased so much, that we were obliged to haul our boats on
board. It rained much, and the weather became so black at eleven, that
we lost all sight of land. About half an hour after, reckoning myself
a-breast of Cape Monday, I made signal to bring-to on the star-board
tack, and thus we passed the rest of the night, filling or backing,
according as we reckoned ourselves to be too near one or the other
shore. This night we have been in one of the most critical situations
during the whole voyage.
At half an hour past three, by the dawn of day, we had sight of the
land, and I gave orders to fill. We stood W. by N. till eight o’clock,
and from eight till noon, between W. by N. and W. N. W. The wind was
always east, a little breeze, and very misty. From time to time we saw
some parts of the coast, but often we entirely lost sight of it. At
last, at noon, we saw Cape Pillar, and the Evangelists. The latter could
only be seen from the mast-head. As we advanced towards the side of Cape
Pillar, we discovered, with joy, an immense horizon, no longer bounded
by lands, and a great sea from the west, which announced a vast ocean to
us. The wind did not continue E. it shifted to W. S. W. and we ran N. W.
till half an hour past two, when Cape Victory bore N. W. and Cape
Pillar, S. 3° W.
[Sidenote: End of the strait, and description of that part.]
After passing Cape Monday, the north coast bends like a bow, and the
strait opens to four, five, and six leagues in breadth. I reckon about
sixteen leagues from Cape Monday to Cape Pillar, which terminates the
south coast of the straits. The direction of the channel between these
two capes, is W. by N. The southern coast is here high and steep, the
northern one is bordered with islands and rocks, which make it dangerous
to come near it: it is more prudent to keep the south coast on board. I
can say no more concerning these last lands: I have hardly seen them,
except at some short intervals, when the fogs allowed our perceiving but
small parts of them. The last land you see upon the north coast, is Cape
Victory (_Cap des Victoires_), which seems to be of middling height, as
is Cape Deseado (_Desiré_), which is without the straits, upon Terra del
Fuego, about two leagues S. W. of Cape Pillar. The coast between these
two capes is bounded for near a league into the sea, by several little
isles or breakers, known by the name of the Twelve Apostles.
Cape Pillar is a very high land, or rather a great mass of rocks, which
terminates in two great cliffs, formed in the shape of towers, inclining
to N. W. and making the extremity of the cape. About six or seven
leagues N. W. of this cape, you see four little isles, called the
Evangelists; three of them are low, the fourth, which looks like a
hay-stack, is at some distance from the rest. They ly S. S. W. about
four or five leagues off Cape Victory. In order to come out of the
strait, it is indifferent whether you leave them to the south or
northward; in order to go in, I would advise that they should be left to
the northward. It is then likewise necessary to range along the southern
coast; the northern one is bordered with little isles, and seems cut by
large bays, which might occasion dangerous mistakes. From two o’clock in
the afternoon, the winds were variable, between W. S. W. and W. N. W.
and blew very fresh; we plyed till sun-setting, with all our sails set,
in order to double the Twelve Apostles. [Sidenote: Departure taken from
the strait of Magalhaens.] We were for a long while afraid we should not
be able to do it, but be forced to pass the night still in the straits,
by which means we might have been obliged to stay there more than one
day. But about six o’clock in the evening we gave over plying; at seven,
Cape Pillar was doubled, and at eight we were quite clear of the land,
and advancing, all sails set, and with a fine northerly wind, into the
westerly ocean. We then laid down the bearings whence I took my
departure, in 52° 50′ S. lat. and 79° 9′ W. long, from Paris.
Thus, after constant bad and contrary weather at Port Galant, for
twenty-six days together, thirty-six hours of fair wind, such as we
never expected, were sufficient to bring us into the Pacific Ocean; an
example, which I believe is the only one, of a navigation without
anchoring from Port Galant to the open sea.
[Sidenote: General observations on this navigation.]
I reckon the whole length of the strait, from Cape Virgin (Mary) to Cape
Pillar, at about one hundred and fourteen leagues. We employed fifty-two
days to make them. I must repeat here, that from Cape Virgin to Cape
Noir, we have constantly found the flood tide to set to the eastward,
and the ebb to the westward, and that the tides are very strong; that
they are not by much so rapid from Cape Noir to Port Galant, and that
their direction is irregular there; that lastly, from Port Galant to
Cape Quade, the tides are violent; that we have not found them very
considerable from this cape to Cape Pillar, but that in all this part
from Port Galant, the water is subject to the same laws which put them
in motion from Cape Virgin; viz. that the flood runs towards the
easterly, and the ebb towards the westerly seas. I must at the same time
mention, that this assertion concerning the direction of the tides in
the strait of Magalhaens, is absolutely contrary to what other
navigators say they have observed there on this head. However, it would
not be well if every one gave another account.
Upon the whole, how often have we regretted that we had not got the
Journals of Narborough and Beauchesne, such as they came from their own
hands, and that we were obliged to consult disfigured extracts of them:
besides the affectation of the authors of such extracts, of curtailing
every thing which is useful merely in navigation; likewise, when some
details escape them that have a relation to that science, their
ignorance of the sea-phrases makes them mistake necessary and usual
expressions for vicious words, and they replace them by absurdities. All
their aim is to compile a work agreeable to the effeminate people of
both sexes, and their labour ends in composing a book that tires every
body’s patience, and is useful to nobody[88].
[Sidenote: Conclusions drawn from hence.]
Notwithstanding the difficulties which we have met with in our passage
of the strait of Magalhaens, I would always advise to prefer this course
to that of doubling Cape Horn, from the month of September to the end of
March. During the other months of the year, when the nights are sixteen,
seventeen, and eighteen hours long, I would pass through the open sea.
The wind a-head, and a high sea, are not dangerous; whereas, it is not
safe to be under a necessity of sailing blindfold between the shores.
Certainly there will be some obstacles in passing the straits, but this
retardment is not entirely time lost. There is water, wood, and shells
in abundance, sometimes there are likewise very good fish; and I make no
doubt but the scurvy would make more havock among a crew, who should
come into the South Seas by the way of Cape Horn, than among those who
should enter the same Seas through the straits of Magalhaens: when we
left it, we had no sick person on board.
-----
Footnote 71:
The isles of St. Barthelemi and of Lions, are connected together by a
shoal. There are likewise two shoals; one S. S. W. of the isle of
Lions, and the other W. N. W. of St. Barthelemi, one or two leagues
distant; so that these three shoals, and the two isles form a chain;
between which, to E. S. E. and the isle of St. Elizabeth to W. N. W.
is the channel through which you advance into the straits. This
channel runs N. N. E. and S. S. W.
I do not think it practicable to sail on the south side of the isles
of St. Barthelemi and of Lions, nor between the isle of Elizabeth and
the main land.
Footnote 72:
From the end of the second gut, to the N. E. point of the isle of
Elizabeth, the distance is about four leagues. Elizabeth island
extends S. S. W. and N. N. E. for the length of about three leagues
and a half. It is necessary to keep this shore on board, in passing
through the above channel.
From the S. W. point of Elizabeth island, to Cape Noir, the distance
is not above a league[73].
Footnote 73:
This Cape Noir is not mentioned in M. de B’s. map; but should be
carefully distinguished from _Cape Noir_, or _Cabo Negro_, seen by
lord Anson upon Terra del Fuego, in about 54° S. lat. F.
Footnote 74:
From Cape Noir the coast runs S. S. E. to the northern point of Bay
Duclos; which is about seven leagues distant from it.
Opposite Bay Duclos, there is a prodigious inlet in Terra del Fuego;
which I suspect to be a channel, disemboguing eastward of Cape Horn.
Cape Monmouth forms the north point of it.
Footnote 75:
_Perruches_, probably _sea-parrots_, or auks. F.
Footnote 76:
The distance from Bay Duclos to Point St. Anne, is about five leagues;
and the bearing being S. E. by S. there is nearly the same distance
from Point St. Anne to Cape Round, which bear respectively N. N. E.
and S. S. W.
Footnote 77:
From the second gut to Cape Round, the breadth of the straits varies
from seven to five leagues; they grow narrow at Cape Round, where
their breadth does not exceed three leagues.
Footnote 78:
From Cape Round, to the Isle of the Observatory, the distance is about
four leagues; and the coast runs W. S. W. In this distance there are
three good anchoring-places.
Footnote 79:
A French _toise_ is six feet Paris measure. F.
Footnote 80:
A mi-canal.
Footnote 81:
From the isle of the Observatory, Cape Forward is about six leagues
distant, and the coast runs nearly W. S. W. The strait is there
between three and four leagues broad.
Footnote 82:
In the space of about five leagues, which are between Cape Forward and
Cape Holland, there are two other capes, and three creeks, of little
depth. I know of no anchorage there. The breadth of the straits varies
from three to four leagues.
Footnote 83:
Cape Holland and Cape Galant bear among themselves E. 2° S. and W. 2°
N. and the distance is about eight leagues. Between these two capes
there is one, less projecting, called Cape Coventry. They likewise
place several bays there, of which we have only seen Bay Verte, or
Green Bay, or Bay De Cordes, which has been visited by land. It is
great and deep, but there seem to be several shallows in it.
Footnote 84:
Bay Fortescue is about two miles broad from one point to the other,
and not quite so deep, from its entrance, till to a peninsula, which,
coming from the west-side of the bay, extends E. S. E. and covers a
port, well sheltered from all the winds. This is Port Galant, which is
a mile deep towards the W. N. W. Its breadth is from four hundred to
five hundred yards. There is a river at the bottom of the port, and
two more on the N. E. side. In the middle of the port there is four or
five fathoms of water, bottom of ooze and shells.
Footnote 85:
Sir John Narborough. F.
Footnote 86:
_Laurier-epice_, spice-laurel is probably the famous _Winters-bark_,
mentioned by Sir John Narborough, and afterwards well drawn and
described by Sir Hans Sloane, in his History of Jamaica, vol. ii. p.
87. t. 19. f. 2. and Plukenet. Almagest. 89. t. 81. f. 1. and t. 160.
f. 7. F.
Footnote 87:
From Cape Galant to Bay Elizabeth, the coast runs nearly W. N. W. and
the distance from the one to the other, is about four leagues. In this
space there is no anchoring-place on the main-land. The depth is too
great, even close to the shore. Bay Elizabeth is open to the S. W. Its
breadth between the points is three quarters of a league; and its
depth pretty near the same. The shore in the bottom of the bay is
sandy; and so is the S. E. shore. In its northern part lies a ledge,
stretching a good way to the offing. The good anchoring in this bay is
nine fathom, bottom of sand, gravel, and coral; and has the following
marks: the E. point of the bay bears S. S. E. ½E. its W. point, W. b.
N. The E. point of the isle of Louis le Grand, S.S. W. ½S. the ledge
N. W. b. N.
Footnote 88: