After I had finished doctoring up the kitchen roof of my farmhouse, I
discovered that the drain-pipe from the kitchen sink had a nasty leak
where the pipe ran through the cellar. Of course, there was no plumber
handy--plumbers do not live in farming districts--so it was "up to" me and
my helper to stop the leak as best we could. A few blows on the lead with
the hammer, carefully administered, almost closed the hole. I then had
recourse to the white lead which I had been using on the kitchen roof, and
I daubed the pipe with paint; still the water oozed through; but after I
had applied a strip of linen to the leak and then neatly wrapped it round
and painted the whole of it with white lead the leak was effectually
stopped, and the pipe is apparently as good now, six years after the
mending, as it was when it was new.
In this sort of work it must be remembered that it is the white lead we
depend upon, and the other material which we use--the tin and the
rags--are only for the purpose of protecting and holding the white lead in
place. Of course, a roof may be mended with tar, but that is always
unsightly and insists upon running when heated by a hot sun; besides, it
is most difficult to conceal and does not come ready for use like white
lead.
If the leak happens to be around the chimney it can be mended by bending
pieces of tin up against the chimney according to the diagram shown for
the tar paper and patent roofings (Figs. 295 and 297).
Flashings, Chimneys, Walls, Etc.
Lead or copper is best for flashings, but in case metal is not convenient
you will find that various patent roofing materials are good substitutes.
Run the strips of roofing to the angle formed by the object to be flashed
and extend the same up the object three or four inches. Fasten these
strips to the roof in the usual way or by nailing cleats of wood over the
top edges.
Leaks in tubs, barrels, and tanks used about the farm can be mended with
rags, tin, and white lead in the manner described for the roof and pipe.
Also leaks in the leaders running from the roof may be treated in the same
manner, but if you must get new leaders for your house by no means replace
the old ones with _galvanized-steel_ tubes. You can tell the difference
between galvanized steel and galvanized iron by its appearance. The steel
is brighter and more silvery than the iron, but my experience is that the
steel will last only two or three years; sometimes one season puts steel
pipes out of commission, whereas galvanized iron will last indefinitely.
After having three sets of galvanized-steel leaders on my town house, I
had them replaced with copper leaders; for, although the expense is
greater, I have found it more economical in the end. For people having
plenty of money to spend on their country houses I would advise the use of
copper leaders, but folks of limited means will save money patching up the
old tin ones or old galvanized ones instead of replacing them with
galvanized steel, which is of little service for outdoor wear. There are,
I believe, only a few firms who now manufacture galvanized iron, but your
architect can find them if you insist upon it.