It is a good idea to make your ridge plank and rafters while the floor is
clear of rubbish. Lay out and mark on the floor, with a carpenter's soft
pencil, a straight line four feet long (_A_, _B_, Fig. 49). At right
angles to this draw another line three feet six inches long (_A_, _D_,
Fig. 49). Connect these points (_B_, _D_, Fig. 49) with a straight line,
then complete the figure _A_, _B_, _C_, _D_ (Fig. 49). Allow two inches at
the top for the ridge plank at _B_ and two by four for the end of the
side-plate at _D_. You then have a pattern for each rafter with a "plumb
edge" at _B_ and a "bird's mouth" at _D_. The plumb edge must be parallel
with _B_, _C_ and the two jaws of the "bird's mouth" parallel with _D_,
_C_ and _A_, _D_, respectively. Make six rafters of two-by-fours and one
ridge plank.
The purlins and collar can be made and fitted after the roof is raised.
Set your roof timber carefully to one side and clear the floor for the
studs, ribs, and plates. First prepare the end posts and make them of
two-by-fours. Each post is of two pieces. There will be four outside
pieces each five feet eight inches in length, which rest on the end beams,
and four inside pieces each six feet in length; this allows two inches at
the top for the ends of the end plates to rest upon.
Examine the corner posts and you will see that the outside two-by-four
rests upon the top side of the end beam and the side-plate rests directly
upon said two-by-four. You will also observe that the inside two-by-four
rests directly upon the sill, which would make the former four inches
longer than the outside piece if it is extended to the side-plate; but you
will also notice that there is a notch in the end plate for the outside
corner piece to fit in and that the end of the end plate fits on top the
inside piece of the corner posts, taking off two inches, which makes the
inside piece just six feet long. This is a very simple arrangement, as may
be seen by examining the diagram. Besides the corner posts, each of which
we have seen is made of two pieces of two-by-fours, there are four studs
for the front side, each six feet two inches long. The short studs shown
in the diagram on the rear side are unnecessary and are only shown so that
they may be put in as convenient attachments for shelves and tool racks.
The first stud on the front is placed two feet from the corner post and
the second one about six feet six inches from the first, to allow a space
for a six-foot window; the next two studs form the door-jambs and must be
far enough from the corner to allow the door to open and swing out of the
way. If you make your door two and one half feet wide--a good size--you
may set your last stud two feet from the corner post and leave a space of
two feet six inches for the doorway. Now mark off on the floor the places
where the studs will come, and cut out the flooring at these points to
allow the ends of the studs to enter and rest on the sill. Next make four
ribs--one long one to go beneath the window, one short one to fit between
the corner post and the door stud not shown in diagram, another to fit
between the door stud and window stud, and another to fit between the
window stud and the first corner post (the nearest corner in the diagram).
Next make your side-plate exactly fifteen feet long. Fit the frame
together on the floor and nail the pieces together, toe-nailing the ribs
in place. Get some help and raise the whole side frame and slip the ends
of the studs into their respective slots. Make the end posts plumb and
hold them in place temporarily by a board, one end of which is nailed to
the top end of the post and the other to the end beam. Such a diagonal
board at each end will hold the side in place until the opposite side is
raised and similarly supported.
It is now a simple thing to slip the end plates in place under the
side-plates until their outside edges are even with the outside of the
corner posts. A long wire nail driven through the top-plates and end
plates down into the posts at each corner will hold them securely.
Toe-nail a rib between the two nearest end posts and make two window studs
and three ribs for the opposite end. The framing now only needs the roof
timbers to complete the skeleton of your shop. Across from side-plate to
side-plate lay some loose boards for a platform, and standing on these
boards let your assistant lift one end of the ridge plank while with one
nail to each rafter you fasten the two end rafters onto the ridge plank,
fit the jaws of the "bird's mouth" over the ends of the side-plates, and
hold them temporarily in place with a "stay lath"--that is, a piece of
board temporarily nailed to rafter and end plate. The other end of the
ridge is now resting on the platform at the other end of the house and
this may be lifted up, for the single nails will allow movement.
The rafters are nailed in place with one nail each and a stay lath
fastened on to hold them in place. Test the ends with your plumb-level and
when they are found to be correct nail all the rafters securely in place
and stiffen the centre pair with a piece called a "collar." Add four
purlins set at right angles to the rafters and take off your hat and give
three cheers and do not forget to nail a green bough to your roof tree in
accordance with the ancient and time-honored custom.
The sides of the house may be covered with tent-cloth, oilcloth, tin, tar
paper, or the cheapest sort of lumber, and the house may be roofed with
the same material; but if you can secure good lumber, use thirteen by
seven eighths by nine and one quarter inch, tongue-and-grooved, one side
planed so that it may be painted; you can make two sideboards out of each
piece six feet six inches in length. Nail the sides on, running the boards
vertically, leaving openings for windows and doors at the proper places.
If you have made a triangular edge to your ridge board, it will add to the
finish and the roof may be neatly and tightly laid with the upper edge of
one side protruding a couple of inches over the opposite side and thus
protecting the joint from rain. Additional security is gained by nailing
what are called picket strips (seven eighths by one and three quarter
inches) over each place where the planks join, or the roof may be covered
with sheathing boards and shingles. It is not necessary here to give the
many details such as the manufacture of the door and the arrangements of
the windows, as these small problems can be easily solved by examining
doors and windows of similar structures.