AUTUMN SONG.

The merriest time of all the year

Is the time when the leaves begin to fall,

When the chestnut-trees turn yellow and sear,

And the flowers are withering one and all;

When the thick green sward is growing brown,

And the honeysuckle berries are red,

And the oak is shaking its acorns down,

And the dry twigs snap' neath the woodman's tread.

The merriest dance that e'er was seen

Is the headlong dance of the whirling leaves,

And the rattling stubble that flies between

The yellow ranks of the barley sheaves.

The merriest song that e'er was heard

Is the song of the sobbing autumn wind;

When the thin bare boughs of the elm are stirr'd,

And shake the black ivy round them twined.

The merriest time of all the year

Is the time when all things fade and fall,

When the sky is bleak, and the earth is drear,

Oh, that's the merriest month of all.

_Friday, 26th._

While I was dressing, D----, like a good angel, came in with three

letters from England in her hand.

* * * * *

The love of excellent friends is one of God's greatest blessings, and

deserves our utmost thankfulness. The counsel of sound heads and the

affection of Christian spirits is a staff of support, and a spring of

rejoicing through life.

* * * * *

* * * * *

A Mr., Mrs., and young Mr. ----, called upon us: they are the only

inhabitants of this good city who have done us that honour.

* * * * *

As soon as my father came in, we sallied forth to see the giantess of a

ship the Americans have been building, to thresh us withal. I hooked

myself up to ----, and away we strode; D---- and my father struggling

after us, as best they might. The day was most beautiful; bright, sunny,

and fresh. After walking at an immense pace for some time, we bethought

us of looking for our _poursuivants_; but neither sign nor vestige

appeared of them. We stood still and waited, and went on, and stood

still again. ---- looked foolish at me, and I foolish at him: at length

we wisely agreed that they had probably made the best of their way to

the Navy-yard, and thither we proceeded. We found them, according to our

expectations, waiting for us, and proceeded to enter the building where

this lady of the seas was propped upon a hundred stays, surrounded with

scaffolding, with galleries running round from the floor to the ceiling.

We went on deck; in fact, the Pennsylvania has been boarded by the

English in our person, before she sets foot on the sea. How I should

like to see that ship launched; how she will sweep down from her

holdings, and settle to the water, as a swan before swimming out! How

the shores will resound with living voices, applauding her like a living

creature; how much of national pride, of anticipated triumph, will be

roused in every heart, as her huge wings first unfold their shadow over

the sea, and she moves abroad, the glory and the wonder of the deep!

How, if this ship should ever lie in an English harbour! If I were an

American on board of her, I would sooner blow her up, with all the

"precious freighting souls" within her, than see such a consummation.

When my wonderment had a little subsided, it occurred to me that she

would not, perhaps, be so available a battle-ship as one of a smaller

size: it must be impossible to manoeuvre her with any promptitude.

* * * * *

My father and ---- indulged in sundry right English bits of bragging, as

they stood at her stern, looking down the enormous deck. I wish I knew

her exact measurements: she is the largest ship ever built, larger than

any East Indiaman; the largest ship in the world. How the sea will groan

under her; nathless in a storm I would rather be in the veriest nutshell

that ever was flung from wave-top to wave-top. How she would sink! she

would go down like another Atlantis, poor ship! I have an amazing horror

of drowning. Came home just in time to dine. After dinner, wrote

letters; at six, went to the theatre; play, Hunchback; played so-so: the

audience are detestable. The majority are so silent that they not only

do not applaud the acting, but most religiously forbear to notice all

noises in the house, in consequence of which some impudent women amused

themselves with talking during the whole play, much "louder than the

players." At one time their impertinent racket so bewildered me, that I

was all but out, and this without the audience once interfering to

silence them; perhaps, however, that would have been an unwarrantable

interference with the sacred liberties of the people. I indulged them

with a very significant glance; and at one moment was most strongly

tempted to request them to hold their tongues.

_Saturday, 27th._

The poor sick lady, whose pretty children I met running about the

stairs, sent to say she should be very glad if I would go in and see

her: I had had sundry inward promptings to this effect before, but was

withheld by the real English dread of intruding. At eleven, went to

rehearsal: on my return, called on Mrs. ----.

* * * * *

* * * * *

She interested me most extremely: I would have stayed long with her,

but feared she might exhaust herself by the exertion of conversing. On

my return to my own room, I sent her Mr. ----'s annuals, and the volume

of Mrs. Hemans's poetry he lent me. Began practising, when in walked

that interesting youth, Mr. ----, with a nosegay, as big as himself, in

his hand. Flowers,--sweet blooming, fresh, delicious flowers,--in the

last days of October; the very sackcloth season of the year. How they do

rejoice my spirit. He sat some time, making most excessively fine

speeches to me: while he was here, arrived another bouquet from my

unknown friend; how nice, to be sure! all but not knowing who they come

from. When my visiter was gone, wrote to ---- till dinner-time. After

dinner, spent nearly the whole afternoon in dressing my pretty flowers.

Sent some of them in to Mrs. ----. I don't know why, but it seemed a sad

present to make to her; for I almost fear she will never see the

blossoms of another year. Yet why do I say that?--is not heaven brighter

than even this flowery earth?

* * * * *

* * * * *

Finished my letter to ----; went to the theatre. My benefit: the

Provoked Husband. The house was very good. I played so-so, and looked

very nice. What fine breeding this play is, to be sure: it is quite

refreshing to act it; but it must be heathen Greek to the American

_exclusives_, I should think.

_Sunday, 28th._

Had only time to swallow a mouthful of breakfast, and off to church. I

must say it requires a deal of fortitude to go into an American church:

there are no pew-openers, and the people appear to rush indifferently

into any seats that are vacant. We went into a pew where there were two

women and a man, who did not take up one half of it; but who,

nevertheless, looked most ungracious at our coming into it. They did not

move to make way or accommodate us, but remained, with very discourteous

unchristian-like sulkiness, spread over twice as much space as they

required. The spirit of independence seems to preside paramount, even in

the house of God. This congregation, by frequenting an Episcopalian

temple, evidently professed the form of faith of the English church; yet

they neither uttered the responses, nor observed any one of the

directions in the Common Prayer-book. Thus, during portions of the

worship where kneeling is enjoined, they sat or stood; and while the

Creed was being read, half the auditors were reclining comfortably in

their pews: the same thing with the Psalms, and all parts of the

service. I suppose their love of freedom will not suffer them to be

amenable to forms, or wear the exterior of humbleness and homage, even

in the house of the Most High God.[47] The whole appearance of the

congregation was that of indifference, indolence, and irreverence, and

was highly displeasing to my eye. After church, came home, and began

writing to ----. ---- called. He sat some time mending pens for me; and

at half-past one D----, he, and I packed ourselves into a coach, and

proceeded on to Fair Mount, where we got out, and left the coach to wait

for us. The day was bright and bitter cold: the keen spirit-like wind

came careering over the crisping waters of the broad river, and carried

across the cloudless blue sky the golden showers from the shivering

woods. They had not lost their beauty yet; though some of their crimson

robes were turned to palest yellow, and through the thin foliage the

dark boughs and rugged barks showed distinctly, yet the sun shone

joyfully on them, and they looked beautiful still; and so did the water,

curled into a thousand mimic billows, that came breaking their crystal

heads along the curving shore, which, with its shady indentings and

bright granite promontories, seemed to lock the river in, and gave it

the appearance of a lovely lake. We took the tow-path, by D----'s

desire; but found (alas, that it is ever so!) that it was distance lent

enchantment to the view. For, though it was very pretty, it had lost

some of the beauty it seemed to wear, when we looked down upon it from

the woody heights that skirt the road.

On we went, ---- and I moderating our strides to keep pace with D----;

and she, puffing, panting, and struggling on to keep pace with us; yet I

was perished, and she was half melted: like all compromises, it was but

a botched business. The wind was deliciously fresh; and I think, as we

buffeted along in its very face, we should have made an admirable

subject for Bunbury. I, with my bonnet off, my combs out, and all my

hair flying about, hooked up to ----, who, willow-like, bent over me, to

facilitate my reaching his arm. D---- following in the rear, her cap and

hair half over her face, her shawl and clothes fluttering in the blast,

her cheeks the colour of crimson, which, relieved by her green bonnet,

whose sides she grappled tightly down to balk the wind, had much the

effect of a fine carnation bursting its verdant sheath. I never saw any

thing half so absurd in my life, as we all looked. Yet it was very

pleasant and wholesome, good for soul and body. After walking for some

time, I asked D---- the hour. It was three, and we were to dine at four,

in order to accommodate the servants, who, in this land of liberty, make

complete slaves of their masters. Horror took possession of us,--how

were we ever to get back in time? To turn back was hopeless: the endless

curvings of the shore, however much we had admired their graceful

sinuosities before, would now have appeared abominable to our

straight-forward designs of home, so we agreed to climb the hill and

take the upper road--and what a hill it was!--the sun poured his intense

rays down upon it; and, what with the heat and the wind, and the steep

path-way, I thought poor D---- would have died. We turned once as we

reached the summit, and I never saw any thing more lovely than the scene

we were leaving behind us. The beautiful blue water winding far away

between its woody shores; close below the hill, a small reed-crowned

island lying like a gem on the bright river, and a little beyond, the

unfinished arches of a white bridge: the opposite shores were bathed

with the evening light, and far away the varied colours of the autumnal

woods were tinged with the golden glory of sunset. But we were pursued

by the thought of four o'clock, and paused but a moment. On we

struggled, and at last my frozen blood began to warm; and by the time we

reached the carriage, I was in a fine glow. Certainly exercise is, in

itself, very delightful, but in scenes like these it is doubly so: the

spirit is roused to activity by the natural beauties around, and the

fancy and feelings seem to acquire vigour from the quick circulation of

the blood, and the muscular energy of the limbs; it is highly

excellent.[48] We jumped into the coach, adjured the man by all the

saints in the calendar to put wings to his chariot wheels, and sat

concocting plausible lies, by way of excuses, all the way home. At last

we hit upon an admirable invention. The cause of our being so late was

to be, that we stopped to render our assistance in reviving an

unfortunate young woman (a lovely creature, of course), who had thrown

herself into the Schuylkill, in consequence of some love disappointment,

and who was withdrawn just in time to be preserved. ---- was to tell

this story with the gravest face he could summon for the occasion, while

we went up to dress, and when we came down we were to corroborate his

statement as correctly as good chance might enable us. We dressed in

half a minute, and found Mr. ---- sitting with my father, and ----

looking amazingly demure. It seemed, however, that no remark had been

made, nor question asked, about our protracted perambulations, so that

we had actually thrown away all our ingenuity. This vexed me so much,

that in the middle of dinner I introduced the topic of drowning, and,

with a lamentable face, related the circumstance; but, alas! one of my

auditors was occupied with a _matelotte d'anguilles_, another with an

oyster _vol-au-vent_, and all the pretty girls in creation might have

been drowned, without the loss in any degree affecting the evident

satisfaction which the above subjects of meditation seemed to afford the

gentlemen: what selfish brutes men are! shocking. Our invention was thus

twice thrown away: one said "Humph!" and the other "Ha!" and that was

the extent of their sympathy. After dinner, came up to my own room, lay

down, and fairly slept till coffee was announced. Came down with half an

eye open, and found the circle augmented by the delectable presence of

Mr. ----. What an original that youth is! They talked politics, abused

republicanism, lauded aristocracy, drank tea, took snuff, ate cakes, and

pottered a deal. My father was going fast asleep, ---- was making a

thousand signs to me to go to the piano, when Mr. ---- rose to depart:

the other gentlemen took the hint, and left us at half-past ten.

_Tuesday, 30th._

At eleven o'clock, went to rehearsal: came home, began letter to ----.

Called with my father upon Mrs. ----: the servant committed that

awfullest of blunders, letting one into the house, and then finding out

that nobody was at home.[49] Came home, practised for some time: all of

a sudden the door opened, and in walked Colonel ---- with my father. He

had just arrived from New York. He dined with us. After dinner, finished

letter to ----. At six, went to the theatre. The house was very good;

play, Much Ado about Nothing. I played well; but what an audience it is!

I have been often recommended, in cases of nervousness on the stage, to

consider the audience as just so many cabbages, and, indeed, a small

stretch of fancy would enable me to do so here. Colonel ---- supped with

us. Found an invitation to dinner from the ----. "One exception makes a

rule," say the scholars; by that same token, therefore, the

Philadelphians are about the most inhospitable set of people it ever was

my good fortune to fall in with.[50]

Towards the end of supper, we fell into a strange discussion as to the

nature of existence. A vain and fruitless talk, after all; for life

shall be happy or sad, not, indeed, according to its events, but

according to the nature of the individuals to whom these events befall.

Colonel ---- maintained that life was in itself desirable; abounding in

blessings, replete with comforts, a fertile land, where still, as one

joy decays, another springs up to flourish in its place. He said that he

felt thankful every day, and every hour of the day, for his existence;

that he feared death, only because life was an absolute enjoyment, and

that he would willingly, to-morrow, accept the power of beginning his

again, even though he should be placed on the world's threshold, a

lonely friendless beggar: so sure was he that his prospects would

brighten, and friends spring up to him, and plenty reward labour, and

life become pleasant, ere it had grown many years old. How widely human

beings differ! It was but an hour before, that I, in counting how many

stars I had already seen go down below the horizon of existence,--Weber,

Lawrence, Scott, all of whom I have known,--was saying to D----, "How

sad a thing, and strange, life is!" adding, what I repent me for, "I

wish that I were dead!" Oh, how can any human being, who looks abroad

into the world, and within upon himself, who sees the wondrous mystery

of all things, the unabidingness which waits on all matter, the

imperfection which clogs all spirit; who notes the sovereignty of change

over the inanimate creation, of disease, decay, and death over man's

body, of blindness and delusion over his mind, of sin over his soul; who

beholds the frailty of good men; who feels the miserable inconsistency

of his own nature; the dust and ashes of which our love, and what we

love, is made; the evil that, like an unwholesome corpse, still clings

to our good; the sorrow that, like its shadow, still walks behind our

joy;--oh, who that sees all this can say that this life is other than

sad--most sad? Yet, while I write this, God forbid that I should

therefore want eyes to see, or sense to feel, the blessings wherewith he

has blessed it; the rewards with which he sweetens our task, the flowers

wherewith he cheers our journey's road, the many props wherewith he

supports our feet in it. Yet of all these, the sweetest, the brightest,

the strongest, are those which our soul draws from him, the end of its

desire, not those it finds here. And how should not that spirit yearn

for its accomplishment? If we seek knowledge here, a thousand mists

arise between our incapable senses and the truth, how, then, should we

not wish to cast away this darkness, and soar to the fountains of all

light? If we strive to employ those faculties which, being of our soul,

have the strength and enduring of immortality, the objects whereon we

expend them here are vague, evanescent, disappointing; how then should

we not desire to find food for our capacities, abiding as themselves? If

we long to love--ah, are not the creatures in whom we centre our

affections frail, capable of change; perishable, born to decay? How then

should we not look with unutterable yearning for that life where

affection is unchangeable, eternal? Surely, if all the hopes, the fears,

the aims, the tendings of our soul, have but their beginning here, it is

most natural, it is most fitting, to turn to that future where they

shall be fulfilled. But there lies a road between.

* * * * *

* * * * *

A break--a break--a break! So much the better; for the two last days

have been nothing but annoyance, hard work, and heartach.

* * * * *

* * * * *

_Friday, November 2d._

A bright sunny day; too hot for a fire; windows open, shutters closed,

and the room full of flowers. How the sweet summer-time stays lingering

here. Found Colonel ---- in the drawing-room. After breakfast, began

writing to ----. Mr. ---- called: he stayed but a short time, and went

out with Colonel ----. My father went out soon after, and I began to

practise. Mrs. ---- came in and sat with me: she played to me, and sang

"Should those fond hopes ever leave thee." Her voice was as thin as her

pale transparent hands. She appeared to me much better than when last I

saw her; but presently told me she had just been swallowing eighty drops

of laudanum, poor thing! When she was gone, went on practising, and

writing, till my father came home. Walked with him and D---- to call on

old Lady ----. The day was so hot that I could scarcely endure my boa.

The election was going on; the streets full of rabblement, the air full

of huzzaing, and the sky obscured with star-spangled banners, and

villanous transparencies of "Old Hickory,"[51] hung out in all

directions. We went round the Town-House, and looked at the window out

of which Jefferson read the Act of Independence, that proclaimed the

separation between England and America.[52] Called at a music-shop,

tossed over heaps of music, bought some, and ordered some to be sent

home for me to look over. Came home, put out things for the theatre.

Dined at three.

* * * * *

* * * * *

Received another beautiful nosegay. After dinner, went on with letter to

----; tried over my music; Heber's song that I wanted is not among them.

At six, went to the theatre. The sunset was glorious, the uprising of

the moon most beautiful. There is an intensity, an earnestness, about

the colour of the sky, and the light of its bright inhabitants here,

that is lovely and solemn, beyond any thing I ever saw. Can Italy have

brighter heavens than these? surely nothing can exceed the beauty of

these days and nights. We were obliged to go all manner of roundabouts

to the play-house, in order to avoid the rabble that choked up the

principal streets. I, by way of striking salutary awe into the hearts of

all rioters who might come across our path, brandished my father's sword

out of the coach window the whole way along. The play was Venice

Preserved; my father played Jaffier.

* * * * *

* * * * *

I played pretty well. The house was very good; but at the end I really

was half dead.

* * * * *

On our return home, met a procession of electioneerers carrying

triangular paper lanterns upon poles, with "sentiments" political

scribbled thereon, which, however, I could not distinguish. Found a most

exquisite nosegay waiting for me at home, so sweet, so brilliant, so

fragrant and fresh.

* * * * *

Found nothing for supper that I could fancy. Drank some tea, wrote

journal. Colonel ---- came in after supper, and wondered that I had

played better to my father's Jaffier than to Mr. Keppel's. Heaven bless

the world, for a _conglomerated amalgamation_ of fools!

_Monday, 5th._

Guy Fawkes' day, and no squibs, no firing of pistols, no bonfires, nor

parading about of ferocious-looking straw men. Ah! these poor people

never had a king and two houses of parliament, and don't know what a

mercy it is they weren't blown up before they passed the reform bill.

Now if such an accident should occur to them, they'd all be sure to be

blown straight into heaven, and hang there. Rose at half-past five. Oh,

I quite agree with the Scotch song,

"Up in the morning's na for me,

Up in the morning early;

I'd rather watch a winter's night,

Than rise in the morning early."

Dressed myself by candlelight. Mrs. ---- sent in to ask me if I would

see her, but I had not time. Sent her a note, and received, in exchange,

the seed of what I suspect is the wood laurel, common in this country,

but unknown in ours. Started from the Mansion House (which is a very

nice inn, kept by the civilest of people,) at six, and reached the quay

just in time to meet the first rosy breaking of the clouds over the

Delaware.

* * * * *

* * * * *

I am sorry to leave Philadelphia. I like the town, and the little I have

seen of its inhabitants, very much; I mean in private, for they are

intolerable audiences. There is an air of stability, of well-to-do, and

occasionally of age, in the town, that reminds me of England. Then, as

far as my yesterday's dinner will allow me to judge, I should say, that

not only the style of living but the society was superior to that which

I saw in New York. Certainly, both the entertainment itself, and the

guests, were irreproachable; the first was in very good taste, the

latter appeared to me well-informed, and very agreeable. The morning, in

spite of all ----'s persuasive prophecies, was beautiful beyond

description. The river like the smoothest glass. The sky was bright and

cloudless, and along the shores, the distinctness with which each

smallest variation of form, or shade of colour, was reflected in the

clear mirror of the Delaware was singularly beautiful and fairy-like.

The tints of the woods were what no words can convey the slightest idea

of. Now, a whole tract of withered oaks, of a red brick hue, like a

forest scorched with fire; now, a fresh thicket of cedars of the

brightest green; then, wide screens of mingled trees, where the foliage

was one gorgeous mixture of vermilion, dark maroon, tender green, golden

yellow, and deep geranium. The whole land at a distance appearing to lie

under an atmosphere of glowing colour, richer than any crimson mantle

that ever clothed the emperors of the olden world; all this illuminated

by a sun, which we should have thought too hot for June. It was very

beautiful. I did not, however, see much of it, for I was overcome with

fatigue, and slept both in the steam-boat and in the stage-coach. When

we embarked on the Raritan, I had intended lying down in the cabin, and

taking my sleep fairly out, but the jolting of those bitter roads had

made every one of the women sick, and the cabin was horrible beyond

expression. Came up on deck, and worked till within a quarter of a mile

of New York, when I went on the upper deck, and walked about with

Colonel ----. I asked Captain Seymour how often the engine would strike

in a minute; he told me, thirty-six times. By the by, we had a race,

coming down the Raritan, with the Union steam-boat. The Water Witch beat

her hollow; but she came so near as to make our water rough, and so

impede our progress, that I thought we should have had a concussion;

there is something very exciting in emulation, certainly. The sun went

down in a watery gloomy sky, though the day had been so fine; and when

we got sight of the Narrows, sky, and sea, and land, were all of a dark

leaden hue. Our second landing at New York was rather melancholy: shall

I ever forget the first? Came up to our comfortless quarters at the

American; dressed, and dined, and began finishing my letter to dear

----, when they brought me in another from her, by the packet that has

just come in.

* * * * *

* * * * *

_Tuesday, 6th._

It poured with rain. Lucky we did not follow ----'s advice, else we

should have been miserably progressing through rain and wretchedness, or

perhaps sticking fast in the mud. Went and took a warm bath; came home,

breakfasted; after breakfast, practised for an hour; finished letter to

----; wrote to my mother; dined at five. After dinner, Colonel

---- called, and very nearly caused a blow-up between me and my father:

he came preaching to me the necessity of restoring those lines of

Bianca's, in the judgment-scene, which were originally omitted,

afterwards restored by me at Milman's request, and again cut out, on

finding that they only lengthened the scene, without producing the

slightest effect. My father appeared perfectly to agree with me, but

added, that I might as well oblige the people. I straightforth said I

would do no such thing. People sitting before the curtain must not come

and tell me what I am to do behind it. Not one out of a hundred, in the

first place, understand what they are talking about; and why, therefore,

am I to alter my work at their suggestion, when each particular scene

has cost me more consideration than they ever bestowed upon any whole

play in all their lives. Besides, it would be with me and my parts as

with the old man, his son, and his ass, in the fable of old; I should

never have done altering, and yet never satisfy any body; for the most

universal talent I know of is that of finding fault. So, all things

well considered, the New Yorkians must e'en be contented with the

judgment of Miss O'Neill, my father, and their obedient humble servant.

Worked till tea-time; after tea, wrote letters till now, bed-time.

_Wednesday, 7th._

Our breakfast was so bad, none of us could eat any thing. After

breakfast, despatched letters to Mr. ----, for England. Practised for an

hour,--sketched for an hour.

* * * * *

* * * * *

At half-past one, went out with my father to walk on the Battery, while

Colonel ---- and D---- went to ----, to see if we could get decent

lodgings, and wholesome eatables there. The day was melancholy, grey,

cold; with a full fresh wind, whirling the rattling leaves along, and

rippling the leaden waters of the wide estuary that opens before this

beautiful parade. The Jersey shore and Staten Island, with their

withered woods all clothed in their dark warm autumnal hues, at a

distance reminded me of the heathery hills of Scotland; they had that

dark purple richness of colouring.

* * * * *

* * * * *

D---- and Colonel ---- joined us, and we walked up Broadway together: my

father left me to go with them, and look at our proposed dwelling. It is

all in vain struggling with one's fate; 'tis clear they haven't the most

distant idea of the comforts of life in these parts. Darkness,

dinginess, and narrowness, were the attributes of the apartments into

which we were shown; then, as the Colonel had never eaten in the house,

he did not know what our food might be--pleasant this! _Resolved_, that

we were better off where we are, and so returned to the American.

Sketched and practised for some time longer. Mr. ---- called to go with

my father to Mrs. ----'s, where they were to dine. He certainly is one

of the handsomest men I ever saw; but he looks half dead, and is working

himself to death, it should seem.

* * * * *

* * * * *

He told me that Boston was the most charming town in America.

* * * * *

Put away things, while D---- unpacked them. Dressed for dinner. Dined

at five; afterwards proceeded in the unpacking and stowing away.

* * * * *

I was interrupted by the announcement of an incomprehensible cognomen,

which solved itself in the shape of Mr. ----, who walked in, sat down,

and began talking a deal of nonsense. I worked, that I might not go to

sleep. He was most exceedingly odd and dauldrummish, I think he was a

little "how com'd you so indeed." He sat very near me, spoke exceedingly

drowsily, and talked an amazing quantity of thickish philosophy, and

moral and sentimental potter. I bore it as well as I could, till ten

o'clock, when I asked him how long it was "reckoned" discreet, in this

country, to prolong evening visits; whereupon he arose and took his

departure.

* * * * *

* * * * *

* * * * *

Worked at the ornaments of my Bianca dress, finished one, and wrote

journal.

_Thursday, 8th._

* * * * *

After breakfast, worked at my dress till late; Mr. ---- called. Put away

goods and chattels; put out things for the theatre. A brother of Mr.

---- called upon us, and sat some time: when he was gone, came back to

my room to finish the ornaments for my dress. This day has been spent in

the thorough surroundings of my vocation; foil stone, glass beads, and

brass tape! ---- came just before dinner; and at the end of it, Colonel

---- called. He read us a paragraph in one of the Philadelphia papers,

upon me, and all my good parts; there was actually a column of them. It

was well written, for I was absolute perfection; excepting, indeed, in

one respect, the hauteur and disdain with which I had treated the

"_rank_ and fashion of Philadelphia." Now this was not true, for, to

speak candidly, I did not know that there were such things as rank and

fashion in all America. However, the article made me laugh extremely,

for, as I could not help observing, "there are real lords and ladies in

my country."[53]

* * * * *

Came to my own room,--refurbished my green velvet bonnet. 'Tis a worthy

old thing that, and looks amazingly well. The cold weather is setting in

very bitterly to-day; we were obliged to have a fire. Heard my father

his part: whilst saying it, he received a subpoena on some business

between Mr. ---- and Mr. ----. At a quarter to six, went to the theatre.

Play, Fazio; house very fine; dress like a bonfire. I played well, but

then my father was the Fazio. The people cried abundantly. Mrs. ---- was

shocked at having to play that naughty woman Aldabella (I wish they

would let me try that part); and when the Duke dismissed her in the

last scene, picked up her train, and flounced off in a way that made the

audience for to laugh. Coming home, Mr. ---- overtook us. My father

asked him in, but he excused himself; before, however, we were well

seated, he had repented the refusal, and came rushing back. Colonel ----

came in, and they both of them supped with us, discussing many matters

of pith. Received a nosegay, as big as myself, of dahlias and other

autumnal flowers.

* * * * *

The moon is resplendent! the earth is flooded with her cold

light--beautiful! By the by, _last night_, at three o'clock this

morning, I was awakened by music. It was a military band playing Yankee

Doodle, the national anthem of the Americans, accompanied by the tramp

of a considerable body of men. They took the direction of the Park, and

there halted, when I heard a single voice haranguing for a length of

time, with occasional interruptions of vehement huzzas, and rolling of

drums. And anon, the march struck up again, grew faint, and died into

the stillness of night.

* * * * *

I was much bounden to the Jacksonites, who are carrying it by fair means

or foul. One man, I was assured, voted nine times over! He was an

Irishman, and, it is to be presumed, a tailor.

_Saturday, 10th._

Skipped yesterday: so much the better, for though it began, like May,

with flowers and sunshine, it ended, like December, with the sulks, and

a fit of crying. The former were furnished me by my friends and Heaven,

the latter, by myself and the devil.

* * * * *

* * * * *

At six o'clock, D---- roused me; and grumpily enough I arose. I dressed

myself by candlelight in a hurry. Really, by way of a party of pleasure,

'tis too abominable to get up in the middle of the night this fashion.

At half-past six, Colonel ---- came; and as soon as I could persuade

myself into my clothes, we set off to walk to the quay. Just as we were

nearing the bottom of Barclay Street, the bell rang from the steam-boat,

to summon all loiterers on board; and forthwith we rushed, because in

this country steam and paddles, like wind and tide in others, wait for

no man. We got on board in plenty time, but D---- was nearly killed with

the pace at which we had walked, in order to do so. One of the first

persons we saw was Mr. ----, who was going up to his father's place

beyond West Point, by name Hyde Park, which sounds mighty magnificent. I

did not remain long on the second deck, but ascended to the first with

Colonel ----, and paced to and fro with infinite zeal till

breakfast-time. The morning was grey and sad-looking, and I feared we

should not have a fine day: however, towards eight o'clock, the grey

clouds parted, and the blue serene eyes of heaven looked down upon the

waters; the waves began to sparkle, though the sun had not yet appeared;

the sky was lighter, and faint shadows began to appear beside the

various objects that surrounded us, all which symptoms raised our hopes

of the weather. At eight o'clock, we went down to breakfast. Nobody, who

has not seen it, can conceive the strange aspect of the long room of one

of these fine boats at meal-time. The crowd, the hurry, the confusion of

tongues, like the sound of many waters, the enormous consumption of

eatables, the mingled demands for more, the cloud of black waiters

hovering down the sides of the immense tables, the hungry eager faces

seated at them, form altogether a most amusing subject of contemplation,

and a caricaturist would find ample matter for his vein in almost every

other devouring countenance. As far as regards the speed, safety, and

convenience with which these vessels enable one to perform what would be

in any other conveyance most fatiguing journeys, they are admirable

inventions. The way in which they are conducted, too, deserves the

highest commendation. Nothing can exceed the comfort with which they are

fitted up, the skill with which they are managed, and the order and

alacrity with which passengers are taken up from, or landed at, the

various points along the river. The steamer goes at the rate of fifteen

miles an hour; and in less than two minutes, when approaching any place

of landing, the engine stops, the boat is lowered--the captain always

convoys his passengers himself from the steamer to the shore--away darts

the tiny skiff, held by a rope to the main boat; as soon as it grazes

the land, its freight, animate and inanimate, is bundled out, the boat

hauls itself back in an instant, and immediately the machine is in

motion, and the vessel again bounding over the water like a

race-horse.[54] Doubtless all this has many and great advantages; but to

an English person, the mere circumstance of being the whole day in a

crowd is a nuisance. As to privacy at any time, or under any

circumstances, 'tis a thing that enters not into the imagination of an

American. They do not seem to comprehend that to be from sunrise to

sunset one of a hundred and fifty people confined in a steam-boat is in

itself a great misery, or that to be left by one's self and to one's

self can ever be desirable. They live all the days of their lives in a

throng, eat at ordinaries of two or three hundred, sleep five or six in

a room, take pleasure in droves, and travel by swarms.[55]

* * * * *

In spite, therefore, of all its advantages, this mode of journeying has

its drawbacks, and the greatest of all, to me, is the being

_companioned_ by so many strangers, who crowd about you, pursue their

conversation in your very ears, or, if they like it better, listen to

yours, stare you out of all countenance, and squeeze you out of all

comfort. It is perfectly intolerable to me; but then I have more than

even the national English abhorrence of coming in contact with

strangers. There is no moment of my life when I would not rather be

alone than in company; and feeling, as I often do, the society of even

those I love a burden, the being eternally surrounded by indifferent

persons is a positive suffering that interferes with every enjoyment,

and makes pleasure three parts endurance. I think this constant living

in public is one reason why the young women here are much less retiring

and shy than English girls. Instead of the domestic privacy in which

women among us are accustomed to live, and move, and have their being,

here they are incessantly, as Mr. ---- says, "_en évidence_." Accustomed

to the society of strangers, mixing familiarly with persons of whom they

know nothing earthly, subject to the gaze of a crowd from morning till

night, pushing, and pressing, and struggling in self-defence,

conversing, and being conversed with, by the chance companions of a

boarding-house, a steam-boat, or the hotel of a fashionable

watering-place, they must necessarily lose every thing like reserve or

bashfulness of deportment, and become free and familiar in their

manners, and noisy and unrefined in their tone and style of

conversation.[56] An English girl of sixteen, put on board one of these

Noah's arks (for verily there be clean and unclean beasts in them),

would feel and look like a scared thing. To return to our progress.

After losing sight of New York, the river becomes narrower in its bed,

and the banks on either side assume a higher and more rocky appearance.

A fine range of basaltic rock, called the Palisadoes, rising to a height

of some hundred feet (I guess), immediately from the water on the left,

forms a natural rampart, overhanging the river for several miles. The

colour of the basalt was greenish grey, and contrasted finely with the

opposite shore, whose softer undulations were yet clothed with verdure,

and adorned with patches of woodland, robed in the glorious colours of

an American autumn. While despatching breakfast, the reflection of the

sun's rays on the water flickered to and fro upon the cabin ceiling; and

through the loop-hole windows we saw the bright foam round the paddles

sparkling like frothed gold in the morning light. On our return to the

deck, the face of the world had become resplendent with the glorious

sunshine that now poured from the east; and rock and river, earth and

sky, shone in intense and dazzling brilliancy. The broad Hudson curled

into a thousand crisp billows under the fresh north-wester that blew

over it. The vaporous exhalations of night had melted from the horizon,

and the bold rocky range of one shore, and exquisite rolling outline of

the other, stood out in fair relief against the deep serene of the blue

heavens.

* * * * *

I remained on deck without my bonnet, walking to and fro, and enjoying

the delicious wind that was as bracing as a shower-bath. Mr. ---- most

civilly offered me, when I returned to New York, the use of a horse, and

himself as escort to a beautiful ride beyond Hoboken, which proffer was

very gratefully received by me. Colonel ---- introduced me to an old man

of the name of ----.

* * * * *

* * * * *

a jester, and a long story-teller;--a man whom it would be awful to meet

when you were too late for dinner, still more awful on your progress to

a rendezvous;--a man to whom a listener is a Godsend, and a button an

anchor of discoursing for half a day. He made me laugh once or twice

heartily. As we passed the various points of the river, to which any

interest, legendary or historical, attached, each of my three companions

drew my attention to it; and I had, pretty generally, three variations

of the same anecdote at each point of observation. On we boiled past

Spitendevil creek,[57] where the waters of the broad Hudson join those

of the East River, and circle with their silver arms the island of

Manhattan. Past the last stupendous reach of the Palisadoes, which,

stretching out into an endless promontory, seems to grow with the

mariner's onward progress, and bears witness to the justice with which

Hudson, on his exploring voyage up the river, christened it, the "weary

point." Past the thick masses of wood that mark the shadowy site of

Sleepy Hollow.[58] Past the marble prison of Sing Sing; and Tarrytown,

where poor André was taken; and on the opposite shore, saw the

glimmering white buildings, among which his tomb reposes.--By the by,

for a bit of the marvellous, which I dearly love. I am credibly informed

that on the day the traitor Arnold died, in England, a thunderbolt

struck the tree that grew above André's tomb here, on the shores of the

Hudson--nice, that! Crossed the broad, glorious, Tappan Sea, where the

shores, receding, form a huge basin, where the brimming waters roll in

an expanse of lake-like width, yet hold their rapid current to the

ocean, themselves a running sea. The giant shadows of the mountains on

the left, falling on the deep basin at their feet, the triumphant

sunlight that made the restless mirror that reflected it too bright for

the eye to rest upon, the sunny shores to the right, rising and falling

in every exquisite form that hill and dale can wear, the jutting masses

of granite, glittering like the diamond rocks of fairy-land in the sun,

the golden waves flinging themselves up every tiny crevice, the glowing

crimson foliage of the distant woods, the fresh vivid green of the

cedars, that rifted their strong roots in every stony cleft, and threw a

semblance of summer over these November days--all, all was beautiful,

and full of brightness. We passed the lighthouse of Stony Point, now the

peaceful occupant of the territory where the blood in English veins was

poured out by English hands, during the struggle between old-established

tyranny and the infant liberties of this giant world. Over all and each,

the blessed sky bent its blue arch, resplendently clear and bright,

while far away the distant summits of the Highlands rose one above

another, shutting in the world, and almost appearing as though each bend

of the river must find us locked in their shadowy circle, without means

of onward progress.

* * * * *

* * * * *

* * * * *

At every moment, the scene varied; at every moment, new beauty and

grandeur was revealed to us; at every moment, the delicious lights and

shadows fell with richer depth and brightness upon higher openings into

the mountains, and fairer bends of the glorious river. At about a

quarter to eleven, the buildings of West Point were seen, perched upon

the rock side, overhanging the water; above, the woody rise, upon whose

summit stands the large hotel, the favourite resort of visiters during

the summer season; rising again above this, the ruins of Fort Putnam,

poor André's prison-house, overlooking the Hudson and its shores; and,

towering high beyond them all, the giant hills, upon whose brown

shoulders the trees looked like bristles standing up against the sky. We

left the boat, or rather she left us, and presently we saw her holding

her course far up the bright water, and between the hills; where framed

by the dark mountains, with the sapphire stream below and the sapphire

sky above, lay the bright little town of Newburgh, with its white

buildings glittering in the sunshine.

* * * * *

* * * * *

* * * * *

We toiled up the ascent, which, though by comparison with its

over-peering fellows inconsiderable, was a sufficiently fatiguing

undertaking under the unclouded weather and over the unshaded downs that

form the parade-ground for the cadets. West Point is a military

establishment, containing some two hundred and fifty pupils, who are

here educated for the army under the superintendence of experienced

officers.[59] The buildings, in which they reside and pursue their

various studies, stand upon a grassy knoll holding the top of the rocky

bank of the river, and commanding a most enchanting view of its course.

They are not particularly extensive, but commodious and well-ordered. I

am told they have a good library; but on reaching the dwelling of Mr.

Cozzens (proprietor of the hotel, which being at this season shut, he

received us most hospitably and courteously in his own house), I felt so

weary, that I thought it impossible I should stir again for the whole

day, and declined seeing it. I had walked on the deck at an amazing

pace, and without once sitting down, from eight o'clock till eleven; and

I think must nearly have killed Colonel ----, who was my companion

during this march. However, upon finding that it wanted full an hour

till dinner-time, it was agreed that we should go up to the fort, and

we set off under the guidance of one of Mr. Cozzens' servants, who had

orders not to go too fast with us. Before turning into the woods that

cover the foot of the mountain, we followed a bit of road that overhung

the river; and stealing over its sleepy-looking waters, where shone like

stars the white sails of many a tiny skiff, came the delicious notes of

a bugle-horn. The height at which we stood above the water prevented the

ear being satisfied with the complete subject of the musician, but the

sweet broken tones that came rising from the far-down thickets that

skirted the river had more harmony than a distinct and perfect strain. I

stood entranced to listen--the whole was like a dream of fairy-land: but

presently our guide struck into the woods, and the world became screened

from our sight. I had thought that I was tired, and could not stir, even

to follow the leisurely footsteps of our cicerone; but tangled brake and

woodland path, and rocky height, soon roused my curiosity, and my legs

following therewith, I presently outstripped our party, guide and all,

and began pursuing my upward path, through close-growing trees and

shrubs, over pale shining ledges of granite, over which the trickling

mountain springs had taken their silvery course; through swampy grounds,

where the fallen leaves lay like gems under the still pools that here

and there shone dimly in little hollow glens; over the soft starry moss

that told where the moist earth retained the freshening waters, over

sharp hard splinters of rock, and rough masses of stone. Alone, alone, I

was alone and happy, and went on my way rejoicing, climbing and climbing

still, till the green mound of thick turf, and ruined rampart of the

fort arrested my progress. I coasted the broken wall, and, lighting down

on a broad smooth table of granite fringed with young cedar bushes, I

looked down, and for a moment my breath seemed to stop, the pulsation of

my heart to cease--I was filled with awe. The beauty and wild sublimity

of what I beheld seemed almost to crush my faculties,--I felt dizzy as

though my senses were drowning,--I felt as though I had been carried

into the immediate presence of God. Though I were to live a thousand

years, I never can forget it. The first thing that I distinctly saw was

the shadow of a large cloud, which rolled slowly down the side of a huge

mountain, frowning over the height where I stood. The shadow moved down

its steep sunny side, threw a deep blackness over the sparkling river,

and then passed off and climbed the opposite mountain on the other

shore, leaving the world in the full blaze of noon. I could have

stretched out my arms, and shouted aloud--I could have fallen on my

knees, and worshipped--I could have committed any extravagance that

ecstasy could suggest. I stood filled with amazement and delight, till

the footsteps and voices of my companions roused me. I darted away,

unwilling to be interrupted. Colonel ---- was following me, but I

peremptorily forbade his doing so, and was clambering on alone, when the

voice of our guide, assuring me that the path I was pursuing was

impassable, arrested my course. My father beckoned to me from above not

to pursue my track; so I climbed through a break, which the rocky walls

of nature and the broken fortifications of art rendered tolerably

difficult of access, and running round the wall joined my father on his

high stand, where he was holding out his arms to me. For two or three

minutes we mingled exclamations of delight and surprise: he then led me

to the brink of the rampart; and, looking down the opposite angle of the

wall to that which I was previously coasting, I beheld the path I was

then following break suddenly off, on the edge of a precipice several

hunched feet down into the valley: it made me gulp to look at it.

Presently I left my father, and, after going the complete round of the

ruins, found out for myself a grassy knoll commanding a full view of the

scene, sufficiently far from my party not to hear their voices, and

screened from seeing them by some beautiful young cedar bushes; and here

I lay down and cried most abundantly, by which means I recovered my

senses, which else, I think, must have forsaken me. How full of thoughts

I was! Of God's great might, and gracious goodness, of the beauty of

this earth, of the apparent nothingness of man when compared with this

huge inanimate creation, of his wondrous value, for whose delight and

use all these fair things were created! I thought of my distant home;

that handful of earth thrown upon the wide waters, whose genius has led

the kingdoms of the world--whose children have become the possessors of

this new hemisphere. I rejoiced to think that when England shall be, as

all things must be, fallen into the devouring past, her language will

still be spoken among these glorious hills, her name revered, her memory

cherished, her fame preserved here, in this far world beyond the seas,

this country of her children's adoption. Poor old mother! how she would

remain amazed to see the huge earth and waters where her voice is heard,

in the name of every spot where her descendants have rested the soles

of their feet: this giant inheritance of her sons, poor, poor, old

England!

* * * * *

Where are the poets of this land? Why, such a world should bring forth

men with minds and souls larger and stronger than any that ever dwelt in

mortal flesh! Where are the poets of this land? They should be giants,

too; Homers and Miltons, and Goethes and Dantes, and Shakspeares. Have

these glorious scenes poured no inspirings into hearts worthy to behold

and praise their beauty? Is there none to come here and worship among

these hills and waters till his heart burns within him, and the hymn of

inspiration flows from his lips, and rises to the sky? Is there not one

among the sons of such a soil to send forth its praises to the universe,

to throw new glory round the mountains, new beauty over the waves? Is

inanimate nature, alone, here "telling the glories of God?" Oh, surely,

surely, there will come a time when this lovely land will be vocal with

the sound of song, when every close-locked valley and waving wood,

rifted rock and flowing stream, shall have their praise. Yet 'tis

strange how marvellously unpoetical these people are! How swallowed up

in life and its daily realities, wants, and cares! How full of toil and

thrift, and money-getting labour! Even the heathen Dutch, among us the

very antipodes of all poetry, have found names such as the Donder Berg

for the hills, whilst the Americans christen them Butter Hill, the

Crow's Nest, and _such like_. Perhaps some hundred years hence, when

wealth has been amassed by individuals, and the face of society begins

to grow checkered, as in the old lands of Europe, when the whole mass of

population shall no longer go running along the level road of toil and

profit, when inequalities of rank shall exist, and the rich man shall be

able to pay for the luxury of poetry, and the poor man who makes verses

no longer be asked, "Why don't you cast up accounts?" when all this

comes to pass, as _perhaps_ some day it may, America will have poets. It

seems strange to me that men, such as the early settlers in

Massachusetts, the Puritan founders of New England, the "Pilgrim

Fathers," should not have had amongst them some men, or at least man, in

whose mind the stern and enduring courage, the fervent enthusiastic

piety, the unbending love of liberty, which animated them all, became

the inspiration to poetic thought, and the suggestion of poetical

utterance. They should have had a Milton or a Klopstock amongst them.

Yet, after all, they had excitement of another sort, and, moreover, the

difficulties and dangers, and distresses of a fate of unparalleled

hardship, to engross all the energies of their minds; and I am half

inclined to believe that poetry is but a hothouse growth, and yet I

don't know: I wish somebody would explain to me every thing in this

world that I can't make out.[60] We came down from the mountain at

about half-past one: our party had been joined by Colonel ----, governor

of the College, who very courteously came toiling up to Fort Putnam, to

pay his compliments to us. I lingered far behind them, returning; and,

when they were out of sight, turned back, and once more ascended the

ruin, to look my last of admiration and delight, and then down, down,

every step bringing me out of the clouds, farther from heaven, and

nearer this work i' day world. I loitered, and loitered, looking back at

every step; but at last the hills were shut out by a bend in the road,

and I came into the house to throw myself down on the floor, and sleep

most seriously for half an hour; at the end of which time we were called

to dinner.

In England, if an innkeeper gives you a good dinner, and places the

first dish on the table himself, you pay him, and he's obliged to you.

Here, an innkeeper is a gentleman, your equal, sits at his table with

you, you pay him, and are obliged to him besides. 'Tis necessary

therefore for a stranger, but especially an Englishman, to understand

the fashions of the land, else he may chance to mistake that for an

impertinent familiarity, which is in fact the received custom of the

country. Mr. Cozzens very considerately gave us our dinner in a private

room, instead of seating us at an ordinary with all the West Point

officers. Moreover, _gave_ in the literal sense, and a very good dinner

it was. He is himself a very intelligent courteous person, and, during

the very short time that we were his guests, showed us every possible

attention and civility. We had scarce finished our dinner, when in

rushed a waiter to tell us that the boat was in sight. Away we trotted,

trailing cloaks, and shawls, any-how fashion, down the hill. The steamer

came puffing up the gorge between the mountains, and in a moment we were

bundled into the boat, hauled alongside, and landed on the deck; and

presently the glorious highlands, all glowing in the rosy sunset, began

to recede from us. Just as we were putting off from shore, a tiny skiff,

with its graceful white sail glittering in the sun, turned the base of

the opposite hill, evidently making to the point whence we embarked. I

have since learned that it contained a messenger to us, from a gentleman

bearing our name, and distantly connected with us, proprietor of some

large iron-works on the shore opposite West Point. However, our kinsman

was too late, and we were already losing sight of West Point, when his

boat reached the shore. Our progress homeward was, if any thing, more

enchanting than our coming out had been, except for leaving all this

loveliness. The sun went down in splendour, leaving the world robed in

glorious beauty. The sky was one glowing geranium curtain, into which

the dark hills rose like shadow-land, stretching beyond, and still

beyond, till they grew like hazy outlines through a dazzling mist of

gold. The glory faded; and a soft violet colour spread downwards to the

horizon, where a faint range of clouds lay floating like scattered rose

leaves. As the day fell, the volumes of smoke from our steam-boat

chimneys became streams of fiery sparks, which glittered over the water

with a strange unearthly effect. I sat on deck watching the world grow

dark, till my father, afraid of the night air, bade me go down; and

there, in spite of the chattering of a score of women, and the squalling

of half as many children, I slept profoundly till we reached New York,

at a quarter to seven.

_Saturday, 17th._

After breakfast, wrote journal: while doing so, Mr. ---- called to know

if I held my mind in spite of the grey look of the morning. A wan

sunbeam just then lighted on the earth, and I said I would go; for I

thought by about twelve it probably would clear.

* * * * *

They called for me in the carriage at eleven; and afterwards we mounted

our steeds in Warren Street to escape the crowd in Broadway. We rode

down to the ferry. The creature, _on top_ of which I sat, was the real

_potatuppy_ butcher's horse. However, it did not shake me, or pull my

arms much, so I was content. As to a horse properly broken, either for

man or woman, I have done looking for it in this land. We went into the

steam-boat on our horses. The mist lay thick over the river; but the

opposite shores had that grey distinctness of colour and outline that

invariably foretells rain in England. The wind blew bitterly keen and

cold.

* * * * *

Our riding party was Mr. ----, whom I like; Mrs. ----, whom I also like,

in spite of her outlandish riding-habiliments, a brother of his,

* * * * *

and a young ---- in white hair and spectacles. The carriage held old Mr.

----, Miss ----, the youngest daughter, and that beautiful youngest boy

of theirs, who is so like his handsome sister; also sundry baskets of

cake, and bottles of champagne. After landing, we set off at a brisk

canter to Weehawk. None of these people know how to ride: they just go

whatever pace their horse likes, sitting as backward as they can in the

saddle, and tugging at the reins as hard as ever they can, to the

infinite detriment of their own hands and their horses' mouths. When we

had reached the height, we dismounted and walked through the woods that

crown the cliffs, which here rise to an elevation of some hundred feet

above the river. Our path lay through tangled brakes, where the withered

trees and fallen red leaves, the bright cedar bushes, and pale slabs of

granite, formed a fine and harmonious contrast of colouring; the whole

blending beautifully together under the grey light, that made it look

like one of Ruysdael's pictures. Our walk terminated at a little rocky

promontory, called the Devil's Pulpit, where, as legends say, Satan was

wont to preach, loud enough to drown the sound of the Sabbath bells in

New York. The Hudson, far below, lay leaden and sullen; the woods along

the shores looked withered and wintry; a thick curtain of vapour

shrouded all the distance: the effect of the whole was very sad and

beautiful; and had I been by myself I should have enjoyed it very much.

But I was in company, and, moreover, in company with two punsters, who

uttered their atrocities without remorse in the midst of all that was

most striking and melancholy in nature. When we mounted our horses

again, Mrs. ---- complained that hers pulled her wrists most dreadfully;

and, as they seemed none of the strongest, I exchanged steeds with her.

The lady proprietress of the grounds over which we had been walking and

riding invited us into the house, but, being mounted, I declined, and we

set off for the pavilion. Just as we arrived there, it began to rain.

Mercy on me and Mrs. ----! how our arms will ach to-morrow! This worthy

animal of hers had a mouth a little worse than a donkey's. Arrived at

the pavilion, we dismounted, and swallowed sundry champagnes and lumps

of plum cake, which were singularly refreshing. We set off again, and

presently it began to pelt with rain. We reached and crossed the ferry

without gelling very wet. Arranged to ride on Wednesday, if fine, and so

home. Upon the whole, rather satisfied than otherwise with my

expedition. Dressed for dinner at once; went on with journal; Colonel

---- called, and sat some time. After dinner, embroidered till eight:

teaed:--my father went over to the theatre: I practised for two hours.

_Sunday, 18th._

The muscles of my arms (for I have such unlady-like things) stand out

like lumps of stone, with the fine exercise they had yesterday. I wonder

how Mrs. ----'s shoulders and elbows feel.

* * * * *

It rained so, we hackneyed to church. This is twice Mr. ---- has not

been to church, which is really very wrong, though it leaves us the pew

comfortably to ourselves. Dr. ---- must be an excellent good man--his

sermons are every way delightful; good sense, sound doctrine, and withal

a most winning mildness and gentleness of manner. A benevolent good man,

I am sure, he must be. Came home--copied snuff-box verses for my father;

divided out my story of the Sisters into acts and scenes: began doing

the same by the English tragedy; but in the midst took a fancy to make a

story instead of a play of it--and so I will, I think. Dressed for

dinner. At about half-past five Colonel ---- and his Quaker wife came.

She is a most delightful creature, with the sweetest expression of face

imaginable. She reminded me several times of dear Mrs. ----. Her dress,

too, the rich brown watered silk, made so plainly, recalled Mrs. ---- to

me very forcibly. We had a very comfortable dinner and evening. They

went away at about half-past ten.

_Monday, 19th._

After breakfast, wrote journal. Went out shopping and returning cards;

called on Mrs. ----, and was let in. I like her; she is a nice person,

with agreeable manners. Came home at about half-past two; put out things

for the theatre; dined at three. After dinner, pottered about clothes

till time to go to the theatre. The house was very good. My

benefit--play, Much Ado about Nothing. I played very well. I am much

improved in my comedy acting. Came home in a coach--it poured with rain.

What a stupid day! The accounts of cholera in New Orleans are frightful;

they have the yellow fever there too. Poor people! what an awful

visitation!

_Tuesday, 20th._

After breakfast, wrote journal. At twelve, went and called upon Mrs.

----: the day was bright, but bitter cold, with a keen piercing wind

that half cut one in half, and was delicious. The servant denied Mrs.

----; but we had hardly turned from the door when both the ladies came

rushing after us, with nothing on their heads and necks, and thin summer

gowns on. They brought us into a room where there was a fire fit to

roast an ox. No wonder the women here are delicate and subject to cold,

and die of consumption. Here were these sitting absolutely in an oven,

in clothes fit only for the hottest days in summer, instead of wrapping

themselves up well, and trotting out, and warming their blood

wholesomely with good hard exercise. The pretty Mrs. ---- looks very

sickly, and coughs terribly. Her beauty did not strike me so much

to-day. I do not admire any body who looks as if a puff of wind would

break them in half, or a drop of water soak them through. I greatly

prefer her sister's looks, who certainly is not pretty, but tall and

straight, and healthy-looking, and springy as a young thing ought to be.

Was introduced to a most enchanting young Newfoundland dog, whom I

greatly coveted. Settled to ride to-morrow, if fine. Called at ----'s,

also at a furrier's about cap, and came home. Found ---- and ---- with

my father. What a very bad expression of face the former has; sneering

and false--terrible! I looked at ---- with much respect. I like his

spirit, as it shines through his works, greatly. He was a pale

sickly-looking man, without any thing at all remarkable in the

expression of his countenance. While they were here, Mr. ---- called to

settle about to-morrow. He is a nice person, sensible and civil, and

civil in the right way. Arrangements were made for dear ----'s going,

which I rejoiced in greatly. I do not like at all leaving her behind.

When the folks were gone, put out things for the theatre. While doing

so, Mr. ---- and Mr. and Mrs. ---- called. Great discoursing about

horses and horsemanship. Dined at three. After dinner, put fur upon my

habit. At half-past five, went to the theatre. House very good; play,

Hunchback. By the by, Colonel ---- called to-day, to entreat me to go

and see his "Honour, the Recorder," who had sent me tickets of admission

to the town-hall, to see ---- receive the freedom of the city. I could

not go, because of our horseback expedition--this by the way. I played

so-soish. ---- was at the play; and at the end, somebody in the house

exclaimed, "Three cheers for ----!" whereupon a mingled chorus of

applause and hisses arose. The Vice-president looked rather silly, and

acknowledged neither the one nor the other. How well I remember the Duke

of ---- coming to the orchestra to see this play, the night before it

was expected the Whigs would go out. I dare say he knew little enough

what the Hunchback was about. I do not think the people noticed him,

however; so the feeling of the pulse must have been unsatisfactory. Mr.

---- said to Modus to-night in the play, speaking of me, "a change of

linen will suffice for her." How absurd! we were all dying on the stage.

Came home; supped:--looked at silks; chose a lovely rose-coloured one to

line my Portia dress; with which good deed my day ended.

_Wednesday, 21st._

Looked at the sun, and, satisfied with his promise, went to bed again,

and slept till half-past eight. After breakfast, wrote to his honour,

the Recorder, an humble apology in true Old Bailey style. Wrote journal,

and began practising. Mrs. ---- called before I was out of my bed to

tell us that the ----'s were not going, but that either her husband or

her brother-in-law would be too glad to go in the gig with D----. This,

however, the latter refused, not choosing, as she said, to make any

young man do the penance of keeping her company on a party of pleasure.

Dear good old D----! I was vexed and provoked; but it could not be

helped. At eleven, ---- came for me. I found Mrs. ---- in the carriage

waiting for me. We adjourned to Warren Street, where were assembled all

the party. While we waited for our horses, Neptune, the beautiful

Newfoundland, was admitted, and amused himself by prancing over tables,

and chairs, and sofas, to his own infinite delight, and the visible

benefit of the furniture. Our steeds having arrived, we mounted and

began to progress. Myself, and Mrs. ----, her husband, his brother,

----, and papa ----, Dr. ----, Mrs. ----'s brother, and Mr. ----,

nephew, I believe, of the Irish patriot, were the equestrians of the

party. After, followed Mr. ---- and Mrs. ----, all be-coated and

be-furred, in the stanhope. After, followed the ammunition-waggon,

containing a negro servant, Neptune, and sundry baskets of champagne,

cake, and cherry bounce. Away we rushed down Broadway, to the infinite

edification of its gaping multitudes. Mr. ---- had gotten me an

enchanting horse that trotted like an angel. So, in spite of Major

----'s awful denunciation of "disgusting," I had a delicious hard trot

all through the streets, rising in my saddle like a lady, or rather, a

gentleman. My habit seemed to excite considerable admiration and

approbation, and indeed it was _great_. Crossed the Brooklyn ferry in

the steam-boat, and safely landed on the opposite side. The whole army

defiled; the stanhope taking the van, the horses forming the main body,

and the provisions bringing up the rear. Our party separated constantly,

as we progressed, into various groups, but I remained chiefly with Dr.

----, Mr. ----, and old Mr. ----. By the by, those ----s are a charming

family; for Mrs. ---- sits straight in her saddle, and the Doctor

settled, when we started, that when he had _despatched his patients_, he

would call for D---- in the gig, and come down to meet us at the fort.

Our ride thither was extremely agreeable: the day was clear, cold, and

grey; a delightful day for riding. I trotted to my heart's content; and

kept my blood warm, and my spirits like champagne, till we reached the

fort, when, at sight of the Narrows, and the Sandy Hook lighthouse, they

sank deep, deep down.

* * * * *

* * * * *

The sea lay grey and still, without a wave or scarce a ripple. A

thousand light skiffs, of various shapes, lay upon the leaden waters.

The sky was a fine heap of heavy purple clouds, from behind which the

sun shot down his rays, which threw a melancholy wan lustre on the sea

beneath them. 'Twas a sad and beautiful scene. The colouring of the

whole was gloomily harmonious; and the dark shores and grey expanse of

water blended solemnly with the violet-coloured curtain of the heavens.

We went over the fort. 'Tis a fortification of no great size, or, I

should think, strength; but its position, which commands the narrow

entrance to the bay of New York, effectually checks the pass, and guards

the watery defile that leads to the city of Mammon. We looked at the

guns and powder-magazine, walked round the walls, and peeped into the

officers' quarters, and then descended to seek where we might eat and be

satisfied. Mrs. ---- is a very nice creature: she looks the picture of

good temper--never stands still a minute; and as we rode along to-day,

when, fearing she might be cold, I asked her how she found herself, she

replied, with perfect innocence and sincerity, "Oh, delightful!" which

made us all scream. We knocked up the quarters of an old woman who kept

a cottage, not exactly young love's humble shed, but good enough for our

purpose. We got sundry logs of wood, and made a blazing fire; moreover,

the baskets were opened, and presently we presented the interesting

spectacle of a dozen people each with a lump of cake in one hand, and a

champagne glass in the other. Mr. ---- and Mrs. ---- stuck to the cherry

bounce, and, as we afterwards heard, drove home accordingly. Having

discussed, we remounted, and set forwards home by another road; a very

lovely one, all along the river side. Ere we had progressed long, we met

D---- and Dr. ---- in the gig. The nice good man had kept his word, and

gone to fetch her. They had met Mr. ----'s equipage going cherry-bounce

pace, it seems, two miles ahead of us. The men here are never happy

unless they are going full speed. 'Tis no wonder their horses are good

for nothing: they would ruin any horses that were good for any

thing.[61] Such unskilful horsemanship I never saw: going full tear;

crossing one another in every direction; knocking up against one

another; splashing through puddles because they have no hand over their

horses, and either overshooting their point, or being half thrown at

every turn of the road, for the same reason. Came home full speed, and

arrived at half-past four, having ridden, I should think, nearly twenty

miles. Found Mrs. ---- at home. They pressed me very much to stay dinner

with them; but my father expected me, and I would not. That worthy

youth, ----, insisted upon my accepting his beautiful large dog,

Neptune, which I did conditionally, in case Mr. ---- should fail me,

which I think a very improbable case indeed. They ordered the carriage,

and Mr. ---- persisted in seeing me home in it, much to my annoyance, as

'twas a very useless ceremony indeed. Did not dishabit, but dined _en

amazone_.

* * * * *

Gave D---- her muff and tippet, which are exceedingly magnificent. After

dinner, pottered about, and dressed at once. Played on the piano till

nine, when we adjourned to ----'s. A complete "small party, my dear."

Dr. ---- was there, whom I was glad to see; also Mrs. ----; also Mr. and

Miss ----; also that Mrs. ----, who is utter horror and perturbation of

spirit to me; also ----; also ----; all our riding party, and a world

besides. After a little time, dancing was proposed; and I stood up to

waltz with Mr. ----, who observed that Dr. ---- was gone, as he never

chose to be present while waltzing was going on. I felt shocked to death

that unconsciously I should have been instrumental in driving him away,

and much surprised that those who knew his disapprobation of waltzing

should have proposed it. However, he was gone, and did not return.

Therefore I waltzed myself out of my conscientious remorse. Sang them

Fanny Gray, and Ye Mariners of Spain. Danced sundry quadrilles; and,

finally, what they called a Kentucky reel,--which is nothing more than

Sir Roger de Coverley turned Backwoodsman--and afterwards a "foursome

reel." Played magic music; and, finally, at one o'clock, came home,

having danced myself fairly off my legs.

_Thursday, 22d._

It poured with rain all day. Dr. ---- called, and gave me a sermon about

waltzing. As it was perfectly good sense, to which I could reply

nothing whatever in the shape of objection, I promised him never to

waltz again, except with a woman, or my brother.

* * * * *

After all, 'tis not fitting that a man should put his arm round one's

waist, whether one belongs to any one but one's self or not. 'Tis much

against what I have always thought most sacred,--the dignity of a woman

in her own eyes and those of others. I like Dr. ---- most exceedingly.

He spoke every way to my feelings of what was right, to-day. After

saying that he felt convinced, from conversations which he had heard

amongst men, that waltzing was immoral in its tendency, he added, "I am

married, and have been in love, and cannot imagine any thing more

destructive of the deep and devoted respect which love is calculated to

excite in every honourable man's heart, not only for the individual

object of his affections, but for her whole sex, than to see any and

every impertinent coxcomb in a ball-room come up to her, and, without

remorse or hesitation, clasp her waist, imprison her hand, and

absolutely whirl her round in his arms." So spake the Doctor; and my

sense of propriety and conviction of right bore testimony to the truth

of his saying. So, farewell, sweet German waltz!--next to hock, the most

intoxicating growth of the Rheinland. I shall never keep time to your

pleasant measure again!--no matter; after all, any thing is better than

to be lightly spoken of, and to deserve such mention. Mr. ---- called,

and sat some time with me. He is grown monstrously fat, and looks

perfectly radiant. He brought with him a good-looking staring man of the

name of ----. We dined at three. After dinner, received a pretty

anonymous nosegay, with sundry very flattering doggrel. The play was the

Stranger. It poured cats and dogs, and the streets were all grey

pudding. I did not expect to see six people in the house; instead of

which 'twas crowded: a satisfactory proof of our attraction.

_Friday, 23d._

At eleven, went to rehearsal--Isabella. I have forgotten all about it.

They all read their parts; came home; began to practise. The two Mrs.

---- called. I like them mainly, Mrs. ---- particularly. While they were

here, Mr. ---- and a man called; they stayed but a minute. By and by, in

walked Mr. and Mrs. ----; whereupon the ---- departed.

* * * * *

* * * * *

While they were here, received from ---- the beautiful annual he has

bought for me, which is, indeed, most beautiful; and with it, literally

a copy of verses, which are _not so bad neither_--only think of that!!!

The engravings are from things of Stanfield's, taken on the Rhine; and

made my heart ach to be once more in Europe, in the old land where fairy

tales are told; in the old feudal world, where every rock, and valley,

and stream, are haunted with imaginings wild and beautiful: the hallowed

ground of legend history; the dream-land of fancy and of poetry. Put out

things for the theatre: dined at three. Colonel ---- called: he brought

news of the arrival of a Liverpool packet, and prophesied letters to me.

Went to the theatre. Play, Hunchback--house very fine again. Just as I

was dressing for the second act, three letters were brought into my

room.

* * * * *

* * * * *

* * * * *

I was so much overset by them, that with the strange faculty I have of

pouring one feeling into another, I cried so bitterly in the parting

scene with Clifford, that I could scarcely utter the words of my part.

* * * * *

* * * * *

_Saturday, 24th._

Our riding expedition having been put off, the day was beautifully

bright and clear. Sat stitching and pottering an infinity. My feet got

so perished that I didn't know what to do. Wrote journal; practised for

an hour; Mr. ---- called. When he was gone, went out with my father.

Called at ----'s to order home my gown for dinner-time. Left a card at

Mrs. ----'s, and then marched down to the tailor's to upbraid him about

my waistcoat, which is infamously ill made.[62] Coming home, met that

very odious Mr. ----, who is the perfection of genteel vulgarity. He

walked home with us. Dressed for dinner. Mme. ---- did not send my gown

home in time: abominable sempstress! so put on my blue, and looked

rather dowdy. Found sundry that we knew: Colonel ----; Mr. ----; my

favourite aversion, Mr. ----; that signal fool, Mr. ----; Miss ----, who

looked like a hair-dresser's wax block; a Miss ----, with lovely feet,

and a terrified Bacchante-looking head, _cum multis aliis_. I sat by one

Mr. ----, who talked without end, and cleverly enough: indeed, it was

rather clever to talk so wonderfully fast and much. After dinner, the

party became much larger: Dr. ----, Mr. ----, the ---- (all but ----),

that entire self-satisfaction, Mr. ----, Mr. ----, and the knight of the

rueful countenance; three singing men, ycleped ----; and a shoal

besides. One of the Mr. ---- and Miss ---- sang the duet in the Didone,

that dear ---- and ---- used to sing so lovelily. They both had good

voices, but the style is but so-soish. Presently, three men sang that

sea glee that I remember Lord and Lady ---- teaching me at ----. What a

strange faculty of our nature this is, this leading back of our minds to

the past, through the agency of our senses, acted upon by present

influences, the renewing life, the magical summoning up of dead time

from its grave, with the very place and circumstance it wore. Wondrous

riddle! what--what are we, that are so curiously made? By and by dancing

was proposed, and I was much entreated and implored to change my

determination about waltzing; but I was inexorable, and waltzed only

with the ladies, who one and all dance extremely well. Mrs. ---- looked

lovely to-night. Dr. ---- says very true, she has a thorough-bred look,

which reminds me a little of our noble English ladies. He says she is

like Lady ----. I think she is prettier: she certainly looks like a gem.

We danced a Kentucky reel, and sundry quadrilles. That long ens, Mr.

----, was tipsy, and went slithering about in a way to kill one; and Mr.

---- was sitting slyly in the corner, pretending to talk to D----, but

in fact dying with laughter at poor ----, who meandered about the room,

to the infinite dismay and confusion of the whole dance. Vain were the

vigorous exertions of his partner, who pulled him this way and that, and

pushed him hither and thither, to all which the unresisting creature

submitted incorrigibly. Remained dancing till half-past twelve, in fact

Sunday morning, and then came home. They made me sing, which I did

abominably. On my return home, found my black satin gown, every atom of

which will have to be unpicked--pleasant! the tradespeople here are

really terrible; they can do nothing, and will take no pains to do any

thing: 'tis a handsome gown spoilt.[63]

_Sunday, 25th._

My dear father's birth-day! also, by the by, a grand occasion here--the

anniversary of the evacuation of the island by the British troops, which

circumstance the worthy burghers have celebrated ever since with due

devotion and thankfulness. Went to church: Dr. ---- did not preach,

which was a disappointment to me. The music was exquisite; and there was

a beautiful graceful willow branch, with its long delicate fibres and

golden leaves, waving against the blue sky and the church window, that

seemed to me like a magical branch in a fairy tale. It struck me as

strange to-day, as I looked from the crowded gloomy church to the bright

unbounded sky, to think that we call the one the house of God; to be

sure, we have other authority for calling the blue heavens his throne;

and oh, how glorious they did look! The day was bright, but bitter cold.

Coming out of church, saw all our last night's party. On my return home

found a perfect levee; Dr. ----, Mr. ----, Mr. ----, Mr. ----, Mr. ----,

a whole regiment. When they were all gone, wrote journal: having

finished that and my lunch, set out with my father to _fetch a walk_;

which we did to the tune of near six miles, through all the outskirts of

the town, an exceedingly low-life ramble indeed--during which we came

across a man who was preaching in the street. He had not a very large

assembly round him, and we stood in the crowd to hear him. By his own

account, he had been imprisoned before for a similar proceeding; and he

was denouncing, most vehemently, signal judgments on the blind and

wicked corporation who had so stopped the work of righteousness. The

man's face was a very fine one, remarkably intelligent and handsome: he

was cleanly and well dressed, and had altogether a respectable

appearance. When we came home, it was past four. Dressed for dinner. My

father dined with Mr. ----; so D---- and I had a _tête-à-tête_ dinner.

After which, played on the piano for some time; after which, began

letter to H----; after which, wrote journal.

* * * * *

* * * * *

_Monday, 26th._

Yesterday was evacuation day; but as yesterday was the Lord's day also,

the American militia army postponed their yearly exhibition, and,

instead of rushing about the streets in token of their thankfulness at

the departure of the British, they quietly went to church, and praised

God for that same. To-day, however, we have had firing of pop-guns,

waving of star-spangled banners (some of them rather the worse for

wear), infantry marching through the streets, cavalry (oh, Lord, what

delicious objects they were!) and artillery prancing along them, to the

infinite ecstasy and peril of a dense mob. Went to rehearsal at

half-past ten. Was detained full ten minutes on the way thither, by the

defiling of troops, who were progressing down Broadway. After rehearsal,

came home--put out things for the theatre. Mr. ---- called: while he was

here, spent a delightful half hour at the window, which, overlooking the

Park, commanded a full view of the magnanimous military marshalled

there. O, pomp and circumstance of glorious war! They were certainly not

quite so bad as Falstaff's men, of ragged memory; for, for aught I know

to the contrary, they perhaps _all_ of them had shirts to their backs.

But some had gloves, and some had none; some carried their guns one way,

and some another; some had caps of one fashion, and some of another;

some had no caps at all, but "shocking bad hats," with feathers in

them.[64] The infantry were, however, comparatively respectable troops.

They did not march many degrees out of the straight line, or stoop _too

much_, or turn their heads round _too often_. Mr. ---- remarked, that

militia were seldom more steady and orderly in their appearance. But the

cava'ry! oh, the cavalry! what gems without price they were! Apparently

extremely frightened at the shambling _tituppy_ chargers upon whose

backs they clung, straggling in all directions, putting the admiring

crowd in fear of their lives, and proving beyond a doubt how formidable

they must appear to the enemy, when, with the most peaceable intentions

in the world, they thus jeopardied the safety of their enthusiastic

fellow citizens. Bold would have been the man who did not edge backwards

into the crowd, as a flock of these worthies a-horseback came down the

street--some trotting, some galloping, some racking, some ambling; each

and all "witching the world with wondrous horsemanship." If any thing

ever might be properly called wondrous, they, their riders and

accoutrements, deserve the title. Some wore boots, and some wore shoes,

and one independent hero had got on grey stockings and _slippers_! Some

had bright yellow feathers, and some red and black feathers! I

remembered, particularly, a doctor, in a black suit, Hessian boots, a

cocked hat, and bright yellow gauntlets; another fellow was dressed in

the costume of one of the Der Freyschutz's corps: it looked for all the

world like a _fancy_ parade. The officers fulfilled completely my idea

of Macheath's company of gentlemen of the road; only, I strongly suspect

the latter would have been heartily ashamed of the unhappy hacks the

evacuation heroes had gotten up upon. The parade terminated with a full

half hour's _feu de joie_.[65]

* * * * *

* * * * *

The bands of these worthies were worthy of them; half a dozen fifers

and drummers playing old English jig tunes. In spite of the folly and

injustice of such a comparison, I could not keep out of my head the last

soldiers I had seen, those fine tall fellows, the grenadier guards, that

used to delight us of a Sunday morning in St. James's Park, and their

exquisite band, and dandy-looking officers. Those _looked_ like

soldiers, whatever they may fight like; and allowing these excellent

good folks to be very lions, look you, I can only say their appearance

approached the sublime, by as near as the French critic assures us the

extreme of the ridiculous does. Dined at three; ---- and ---- called

after dinner. My father went with Mr. ---- to Tammany Hall,[66] where

there was a grand democratic dinner, in honour of the triumph of the

Jackson party, the mob men here. I sat writing to ---- till time to go

to the theatre. The play was Isabella; the house crammed; a regular

holiday audience--shrieking, shouting, laughing, and rowing, like one of

our own Christmas audiences. I acted like a wretch. My dresses looked

very handsome, particularly my marriage dress; but my muslin bed-gown

was so long that, I set my feet through it the very first thing; and

those _animaux bêtes_, who dragged me off, tore a beautiful point lace

veil I had on to tatters, a thing that cost three guineas, if a

farthing! My father received a most amusing letter this morning from

Lord ----, asking us to come over to Jamaica and act, offering us

quarters in his house, and plenty of volunteer actors (did he include

himself, I wonder?) to make up a company, if we will come. I should like

it very well: to pass the winter in that nice warm climate would be

delightful, and I dare say we should find our stay there amusing and

agreeable enough. I wish we could do it.

_Tuesday, 27th._

After breakfast, Colonel ---- called. Put out things for to-night. At

half-past twelve, went out with my father and Colonel ----. Called upon

his honour, the Recorder, but he was in court, and not to be seen.

Walked down to the Battery. The day was most lovely, like an early day

in June in England: my merino gown was intolerable, and I was obliged to

take a parasol with me, the sun was so powerful. The Battery was, as

usual, totally deserted, though the sky, and shores, and beautiful

bright bay, were smiling in perfect loveliness. A delicious fresh breeze

came wandering over the wide estuary; and graceful boats, with their

full sails glittering in the sun, glided to and fro, swift and strong,

over the smooth waters, like summer clouds across the blue heavens--as

silently, as rapidly, as tracklessly.[67]

* * * * *

* * * * *

Came home at half-past one. Found a card from Mrs. ----. I'm sorry I

didn't see her. ---- called, with one Mr. ----, kinsman to the

authoress.

* * * * *

* * * * *

* * * * *

While they were here, Mrs. ---- called to settle about to-morrow's ride.

Mr. and Mrs. ---- arriving, the rest departed. We dined at three. After

dinner, came to my own room; wrote journal; went on with letter to ----.

At half-past five, went to the theatre. Play, the Gamester; my father's

benefit; the house was very good. I played pretty well. Mr. ----

thoroughly bothered me, by standing six yards behind me: what a complete

stroller's trick that is. So we are to act on Saturday. If I can go to

the opera, all the same, I sha'n't mind so much; but I will be in most

horrible dudgeon if it prevents that, for I want to hear this new prima

donna. Mr. ---- was behind the scenes, and ---- _wrapt_, in his usual

seat: he's a delightful bit of audience. Received a bill of the intended

performances for Thursday, Mr. ----'s benefit; and such another farce as

the whole thing is I never heard of; as Mr. ---- says, "the benefit of

humbug," indeed.

* * * * *

* * * * *

Came home. While we were at supper, my father showed me a note he had

received from ----, which, to use a most admirable vulgarism, struck me

all of a heap. A sort of threatening letter, desiring him, as he valued

his interest, to come forward and offer to act Charles the Second for

the said Mr. ----'s benefit, having already agreed to act in one piece,

for said Mr. ----'s benefit. "O monstrous! monstrous! most unnatural!"

What a vulgar wretch the man must be!

_Wednesday, 28th._

Mary ----'s wedding day! Poor lassie! I looked at the bright morning sun

with pleasure for her sake. After breakfast, sat reading the poems of

Willis, a young man, whose works, young as they evidently are, would

have won him some consideration in any but such a thorough work-day

world as this. I cried a good deal over some of this man's verses. I

thought some of them beautiful; and 'tis the property of beauty to stir

the wells of my soul sadly, rather than cast sunshine over them. I think

all things are sad. 'Tis sad to hear sweet music; 'tis sad to read fine

poetry; 'tis sad to look upon the beautiful face of a fair woman; 'tis

sad to behold the unclouded glory of a summer's sky. There is a deep and

lingering tone in the harmony of all beauty that resounds in our souls

with too full and solemn a vibration for pleasure alone. In fact,

_intensity_, even of joy and delight, is in itself serious; 'tis

impossible to be fulfilled with emotion of any sort, and not feel as

though we were within the shadow of a cloud.[68] I remember when first I

recited Juliet to my mother, she said I spoke the balcony scene almost

sadly. Was not such deep, deep love too strong, too passionate, too

pervading, to be uttered with the light laughing voice of pleasure? Was

not that love, even in its fulness of joy, sad--awful? However, perhaps,

I do but see through my own medium, and fancy it the universal one. My

eyes are dark, and most things look darkly through them. At about twelve

o'clock Mrs. ---- called for me; and, escorted by her husband and Mr.

----, we rode forth to visit the island. We went to a pretty cottage

belonging to Mr. ----'s father-in-law, Dr. ----. The day was still and

grey--a pleasant day; there was no sunshine, but neither were there any

dark shadows. My horse had been ill ridden by somebody or another, and

was mighty disagreeable. Our ride was pleasant enough: there was not

much variety in the country we passed through. Masses of granite and

greenish basalt, wild underwood, and vivid bright-looking cedar bushes.

The Hudson lay leaden and sullen under the wings of the restless wind.

We stood to hear the delicious music of the water plashing against the

rocky shore, which is the pleasantest sound in all the world. We then

rode to a place ycleped Hell-gate,[69] from a dangerous current in the

East river, where ships have been lost--and home through the mellow

sunlight of a warm autumnal afternoon. Came in at a little past four.

Devoured sundry puddings and pies; put out clothes for the evening;

dined at five. My father dined at ----'s: I've an especial fancy for

that man. After dinner, sat making blonde tippet, and strumming on the

piano till eight. Drank tea, dressed, and off to Mrs. ----'s "small

party, my dear."

* * * * *

* * * * *

* * * * *

The people here have no conscience about the questions they ask, and, as

I have one in answering, and always give them "the truth, the whole

truth, and nothing but the truth," it follows that nothing can be more

disagreeable than their queries, except my replies. Mr. ---- was there;

I like him: he has something in him, and is not vulgar or impertinent.

Was introduced to a very handsome French creole woman,[70] whom I liked:

she reminded me of my mother, and her son bore a striking resemblance to

dear ----. We stood up to dance a couple of quadrilles; but as they had

not one distinct idea of what the figures were, the whole was a mess of

running about, explaining, jostling, and awkward blundering.[71] I took

greatly to the governess of the family, a German woman, with a right

German face, a nice person, with quiet simple manners. The women's

voices here distract me; so loud, so rapid, and with such a twang! What

a pity! for they are, almost without an exception, lovely looking

creatures, with an air of refinement in their appearance, which would be

very attractive, but for their style of dress, and those said tremendous

shrill loud voices.[72] Came home at twelve o'clock. My favourite

aversion, Mrs. ----, was there.

_Thursday, 29th._

Journal of a Residence in America · 第 8 / 21 题