SATURDAY NIGHT SONG.

Come, fill the can again, boys,

One parting glass, one parting glass;

Ere we shall meet again, boys,

Long years may pass, long years may pass.

We'll drink the gallant bark, boys,

That's borne us through, that's borne us through,

Bright waves and billows dark, boys,

Our ship and crew, our ship and crew.

We'll drink those eyes that bright, boys,

With smiling ray, with smiling ray,

Have shone like stars to light, boys,

Our watery way, our watery way.

We'll drink our English home, boys,

Our father land, our father land,

And the shores to which we're come, boys,

A sister strand, a sister strand.

_Sunday, September 2d._

Rose at half-past six: the sun was shining brilliantly; woke H---- and

went on deck with her. The morning was glorious, the sun had risen two

hours in the sky, the sea was cut by a strong breeze, and curled into

ridges that came like emerald banks crowned with golden spray round our

ship; she was going through the water at nine knots an hour. I sat and

watched the line of light that lay like a fairy road to the

east--towards my country, my dear dear home.

* * * * *

Breakfasted at table for the first time since I've been on board the

ship--I did hope, the last. After breakfast, put my things to rights,

tidied our cabin for prayers, and began looking out the lessons; while

doing so, the joyful sound, "Land, land!" was heard aloft. I rushed on

deck, and between the blue waveless sea, and the bright unclouded sky,

lay the wished-for line of darker element. 'Twas Long Island: through a

glass I descried the undulations of the coast, and even the trees that

stood relieved against the sky. Hail, strange land! my heart greets you

coldly and sadly! Oh, how I thought of Columbus, as with eyes strained

and on tiptoe our water-weary passengers stood, after a summer's sail of

thirty days, welcoming their mother earth! The day was heavenly, though

intensely hot, the sky utterly cloudless, and, by that same token, I do

not love a cloudless sky. They tell me that this is their American

weather almost till Christmas; that's nice, for those who like frying.

Commend me to dear England's soft, rich, sad, harmonious skies and

foliage--commend me to the misty curtain of silver vapour that hangs

over her September woods at morning, and shrouds them at night;--in

short, I am home-sick before touching land. After lunch, my father read

prayers to us, and that excellent sermon of dear Mr. Thurstone's on

taking the sacrament. After prayers, came on deck; there were two or

three sails in sight--hailed a schooner which passed us--bad news of the

cholera--pleasant this--walked about, collected goods and chattels,

wrote journal, spent some time in seeing a couple of geese take a

sea-swim with strings tied to their legs. After dinner, sat in my cabin

some time--walked on deck; when the gentlemen joined us, we danced the

sun down, and the moon up. The sky was like the jewel-shop of angels; I

never saw such brilliant stars, nor so deep an azure to hang them in.

The moon was grown powerful, and flooded the deck, where we sat playing

at blind man's buff, magic music, and singing, and talking of shore till

midnight, when we came to bed. I must not forget how happy an omen

greeted us this morning. As we stood watching the "_dolce color di

oriental zaffiro_," one of the wild wood pigeons of America flew round

our mizen-mast, and alighted on the top-sail yard;--this was the first

living creature which welcomed us to the New World, and it pleased my

superstitious fancy. I would have given any thing to have caught the

bird, but, after resting itself awhile, it took flight again and left

us. We were talking to-day to one of our steerage passengers, a

Huddersfield manufacturer, going out in quest of a living, with five

children of his own to take care of, and two nephews. The father of the

latter, said our Yorkshireman, having married a second time, and these

poor children being as it were "_thristen_ (thrust) out into the world

loike--whoy oi jist took care of them." Verily, verily, he will have his

reward--these tender mercies of the poor to one another are beautiful,

and most touching.

_Monday, September 3d._

I had desired the mate to call me by sunrise, and accordingly, in the

midst of a very sound and satisfactory sleep, Mr. Curtis shook me

roughly by the arm, informing me that the sun was just about to rise.

The glorious god was quicker at his toilet than I at mine; for though I

did but put on a dressing-gown and cloak, I found him come out of his

eastern chamber, arrayed like a bridegroom, without a single beam

missing. I called H----, and we remained on deck watching the clouds

like visions of brightness and beauty, enchanted creations of some

strange spell-land--at every moment assuming more fantastic shapes and

gorgeous tints. Dark rocks seemed to rise, with dazzling summits of

light pale lakes of purest blue spread here and there between--the sun

now shining through a white wreath of floating silver, now firing, with

a splendour that the eye shrank from, the edges of some black cloudy

mass. Oh, it was surpassing!--We were becalmed, however, which rather

damped all our spirits, and half made the captain swear. Towards mid-day

we had to thank Heaven for an incident. A brig had been standing aft

against the horizon for some hours past, and we presently descried a

boat rowing from her towards us. The distance was some five miles, the

sun broiling; we telescoped and stood on tiptoe; they rowed stoutly, and

in due time boarded us. She was an English brig from Bristol, had been

out eleven weeks, distressed by contrary winds, and was in want of

provisions. The boat's crew was presently surrounded, grog was given the

men, porter to the captain and his companion. Our dear captain supplied

them with every thing they wanted, and our poor steerage passengers sent

their mite to the distressed crew in the shape of a sack of potatoes;

they remained half an hour on board, we clustering round them,

questioning and answering might and main. As H---- said, they were new

faces at least, and, though two of the most ill-favoured physiognomies I

ever set eyes on, there was something refreshing even in their ugly

novelty. After this the whole day was one of continual excitement,

nearing the various points of land, greeting vessels passing us, and

watching those bound on the same course. At about four o'clock a

schooner came alongside with a news-collector; he was half devoured with

queries; news of the cholera, reports of the tariff and bank questions,

were loudly demanded: poor people, how anxiously they looked for replies

to the first! Mr. ----, upon whose arm I leant, turned pale as death

while asking how it had visited Boston. Poor fellow! poor people all! my

heart ached with their anxiety. As the evening darkened, the horizon

became studded with sails; at about eight o'clock we discovered the

Highlands of Neversink, the entrance to New York harbour, and presently

the twin lights of Sandy Hook glimmered against the sky. We were all in

high spirits; a fresh breeze had sprung up, we were making rapidly to

land; the lovely ship, with all sail set, courtesying along the smooth

waters. The captain alone seemed anxious, and was eagerly looking out

for the pilot. Some had gathered to the ship's side, to watch the

progress of Colonel ----, who had left us and gone into the news-boat,

which was dancing like a fairy by the side of our dark vessel. Cheering

resounded on all sides, rockets were fired from the ship's stern, we

were all dancing, when suddenly a cry was echoed round of "A pilot, a

pilot!" and close under the ship's side a light graceful little schooner

shot like an arrow through the dim twilight, followed by a universal

huzza; she tacked, and lay to, but proved only a news-boat: while,

however, all were gathered round the collector, the pilot-boat came

alongside, and the pilot on board; the captain gave up the cares and

glories of command, and we danced an interminable country dance. All was

excitement and joyous confusion; poor Mr. ---- alone seemed smitten with

sudden anxiety; the cholera reports had filled him with alarm, lest his

agent should have died, and his affairs on his arrival be in confusion

and ruin--poor fellow! I was very sorry for him. We went down to supper

at ten, and were very merry, in spite of the ship's bumping twice or

thrice upon the sands. Came up and dawdled upon deck--saw them cast

anchor; away went the chain, down dropped the heavy stay, the fair ship

swung round, and there lay New York before us, with its clustered lights

shining like a distant constellation against the dark outline of land.

Remained on deck till very late--were going to bed, when the gentlemen

entreated us to join their party once more; we did so, sang all the old

songs, laughed at all the old jokes, drank our own and each other's

health, wealth, and prosperity, and came to bed at two o'clock. Our

cradle rocks no longer, but lies still on the still waters; we have

reached our destination; I thank God! I did so with all my soul.

_Tuesday, September 4th,

New York, America._

It is true, by my faith! it is true; there it is written, here I sit, I

am myself and no other, this is New York and nowhere else--Oh!

"singular, strange!" Our passengers were all stirring and about at peep

of day, and I got up myself at half past six. Trunks lay scattered in

every direction around, and all were busily preparing to leave the good

ship Pacific. Mercy on us! it made me sad to leave her and my shipmates.

I feel like a wretch swept down a river to the open sea, and catch at

the last boughs that hang over the banks to stay me from that wide

loneliness. The morning was real Manchester. I believe some of the

passengers had brought the fog and rain in their English clothes, which

they were all putting on, together with best hats, dandy cravats,

etc.--to make a _sensation_. A fog hung over the shores of Staten Island

and Long Island, in spite of which, and a dreary, heavy, thick rain, I

thought the hilly outline of the former very beautiful; the trees and

grass were rather sunburnt, but in a fair spring day I should think it

must be lovely. We breakfasted, and packed ourselves into our shawls and

bonnets, and at half-past nine the steam-boat came alongside to take us

to shore: it was different from any English steam-boat I ever saw,

having three decks, and being consequently a vessel of very considerable

size. We got on board her all in the rain and misery, and, as we drifted

on, our passengers collected to the side of the boat, and gave "The dear

old Lady" three cheers. Poor ship! there she lay--all sails reefed,

rocking in melancholy inaction, deserted by her merry inmates, lonely

and idle--poor Pacific! I should like to return in that ship; I would

willingly skip a passage in order to do so. All were looking at the

shores; some wondering and admiring, others recognising through the rain

and mist, as best they might; I could not endure to lift my eyes to the

strange land, and, even had I done so, was crying too bitterly to see

any thing. Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- went to secure apartments for us at the

American Hotel; and, after bidding good-by to the sea, we packed

ourselves into a hackney coach, and progressed. The houses are almost

all painted glaring white or red; the other favourite colours appear to

be pale straw colour and grey. They have all green Venetian shutters,

which give an idea of coolness, and almost every house has a tree or

trees in its vicinity, which looks pretty and garden-like. We reached

our inn,--the gentlemen were waiting for us, and led us to our

drawing-room. I had been choking for the last three hours, and could

endure no more, but sobbed like a wretch aloud.

* * * * *

* * * * *

There was a piano in the room, to which I flew with the appetite of one

who has lived on the music of the speaking-trumpet for a month; that,

and some iced lemonade and cake, presently restored my spirits. I went

on playing and singing till I was exhausted, and then sat down and wrote

journal. Mr. ---- went out and got me Sir Humphry Davy's Salmonia, which

I had been desiring, and he had been speaking of on board ship.

At five o'clock we all met once more together to dinner. Our

drawing-room being large and pleasant, the table was laid in it. 'Tis

curious how an acquaintanceship of thirty days has contrived to bind

together in one common feeling of kindness and good-fellowship persons

who never met before, who may never meet again. To-morrow we all

separate, to betake ourselves each to our several path; and, as if loath

to part company, they all agreed to meet once more on the eve of doing

so, probably for ever. How strongly this clinging principle is inherent

in our nature! These men have no fine sympathies of artificial creation,

and this exhibition of _adhesiveness_ is in them a real and heart-sprung

feeling. It touched me--indeed it may well do so; for friends of thirty

days are better than utter strangers, and when these my shipmates shall

be scattered abroad, there will be no human being left near us whose

face we know, or whose voice is familiar to us. Our dinner was a

favourable specimen of eating as practised in this new world; every

thing good, only in too great a profusion; the wine drinkable, and the

fruit beautiful to look at: in point of flavour it was infinitely

inferior to English hothouse fruit, or even fine espalier fruit raised

in a good aspect. Every thing was wrapped in ice, which is a most

luxurious necessary in this hot climate; but the things were put on the

table in a slovenly outlandish fashion; fish, soup, and meat, at once,

and puddings, and tarts, and cheese, at another once; no finger-glasses,

and a patched table-cloth,--in short, a want of that style and neatness

which is found in every hotel in England. The waiters, too, reminded us

of the half-savage Highland lads that used to torment us under that

denomination in Glasgow--only that they were wild Irish instead of wild

Scotch. The day had cleared, and become intensely hot, towards evening

softening and cooling under the serene influences of the loveliest moon

imaginable. The streets were brilliantly lighted, the shops through the

trees, and the people parading between them, reminded me very much of

the Boulevards. We left the gentlemen, and went down stairs, where I

played and sang for three hours. On opening the door, I found a junta of

men sitting on the hall floor, round it, and smoking. Came up for

coffee; most of the gentlemen were rather elated,--we sang, and danced,

and talked, and seemed exceeding loath to say good-by. I sat listening

to the dear Doctor's theory of the nature of the soul, which savoured

infinitely more of the spirituality of the bottle than of immaterial

existences. I heard him descant very tipsily upon the vital principle,

until my fatigue getting fairly the better of my affection for him, I

bade our remaining guests good night, and came to bed.

_Wednesday, 5th._

I have been in a sulky fit half the day, because people will keep

walking in and out of our room, without leave or license, which is

coming a great deal too soon to Hope's idea of Heaven. I am delighted to

see my friends, but I like to tell them so, and not that they should

take it for granted. When I made my appearance in my dressing-gown (my

clothes not being come, and the day too hot for a silk pelisse), great

was my amazement to find our whole ship's company assembled at the

table. After breakfast they dispersed, and I sat writing journal, and

playing, and singing. Colonel ---- and Mr. ---- called. Our Boston

friends leave us to-day for their homes. I am sorry to lose them, though

I think H---- will be the better for rest. Mrs. ---- called to see D----

to-day. I remember her name, as one of the first things I do remember. A

visit from a Mr. ----, one of the directors of the Custom-House, and

W---- P----, brother to the proprietor of the Park theatre, who is a

lawyer of considerable reputation here. The face of the first was good,

the other's clever. I said nothing, as usual, and let them depart in

peace. We dined at half-past two, with the H----s and Mr. ----. At

half-past three we walked down to the quay to convoy them to their

steam-boat, which looked indeed like a "castle on the main." We saw them

on board, went down and looked at the state cabin, which was a

magnificent room, and would have done charmingly for a gallopade. We

bade our new friends, whom I like better than some old ones, good-by,

and walked briskly on to the Battery, to see them as they passed it. The

sun was intensely hot; and as I struggled forward, hooked up to this

young Sheffield giant, I thought we were the living illustration of

Hood's "Long and Short" of it. We gained the battery, and saw the

steam-boat round; our travellers kept the deck with "hat and glove and

handkerchief," as long as we could see them. This Battery is a beautiful

marine parade, commanding the harbour and entrance of the bay, with

Governor's Island, and its dusky red fort, and the woody shores of New

Jersey and Long Island. A sort of public promenade, formed of grass

plots, planted with a variety of trees, affords a very agreeable

position from whence to enjoy the lovely view. My companion informed me

that this was a fashionable resort some time ago; but owing to its

being frequented by the lowest and dirtiest of the rabble, who in this

land of liberty roll themselves on the grass, and otherwise annoy the

more respectable portion of the promenaders, it has been much deserted

lately, and is now only traversed by the higher classes as a

thoroughfare. The trees and grass were vividly and luxuriantly green;

but the latter grew rank and long, unshorn and untidy. "Oh," thought I,

"for a pair of English shears, to make these green carpets as smooth and

soft and thick as the close-piled Genoa velvet." It looked neglected and

slovenly. Came home up Broadway, which is a long street of tolerable

width, full of shops, in short the American Oxford Road, where all

people go to exhibit themselves and examine others. The women that I

have seen hitherto have all been very gaily dressed, with a pretension

to French style, and a more than English exaggeration of it. They all

appear to me to walk with a French shuffle, which, as their pavements

are flat, I can only account for by their wearing shoes made in the

French fashion, which are enough in themselves to make a waddler of the

best walker that ever set foot to earth. Two or three were pretty girls;

but the town being quite empty, these are probably bad specimens of the

graces and charms that adorn Broadway in its season of shining. Came

home and had tea; after which my father, I, and Mr. ---- crossed the

Park (a small bit of grass enclosed in white palings, in plain English,

a green) to the theatre. Wallack was to act in the Rent Day. Mercy, how

strange I felt as I once more set foot in a theatre; the sound of the

applause set my teeth on edge. The house is pretty, though rather

gloomy, well formed, about the size of the Haymarket, with plenty of

gold carving, and red silk about it, looking rich and warm. The audience

was considerable, but all men; scarce, I should think, twenty women in

the dress circle, where, by the by, as well as in the private boxes, I

saw men sitting with their hats on. The Rent Day is a thorough

melodrama, only the German monster has put on a red waistcoat and top

boots. Nathless this is a good thing of a bad sort: the incidents,

though not all probable, or even as skilfully tacked together as they

might be, are striking and dramatically effective, and the whole piece

turns on those home feelings, those bitterest realities of every-day

life, that wring one's heart, beyond the pain that one allows works of

fiction to excite. As for the imitation of Wilkie's pictures, the first

was very pretty, but the second I did not see, my face being buried in

my handkerchief, besides having a quarter less seven fathom of tears

over it, at the time. I cried most bitterly during the whole piece; for

as in his very first scene Wallack asks his wife if she will go with him

to America, and she replies, "What! leave the farm?" I set off from

thence and ceased no more. The manager's wife and another woman were in

the box, which was his, and I thought we should have carried away the

front of it with our tears. Wallack played admirably: I had never seen

him before, and was greatly delighted with his acting. I thought him

handsome of a rustic kind, the very thing for the part he played, a fine

English yeoman: he reminded me of ----. At the end of the play, came

home with a tremendous headach: sat gossiping and drinking lemonade.

Presently a tap at the door came, and through the door came Mr. ----. I

shook hands with him, and began expatiating on the impertinence of

people's not enquiring down stairs whether we were at home or not before

they came up--I don't believe he took my idea. Mr. ---- came in to bid

us good-by: he starts to-morrow for Baltimore. He is a nice

good-tempered young Irishman, with more tongue than brains, but still

clever enough: I am sorry he is going. Came to bed-room at eleven,

remained up till one, unpacking goods and chattels. Mercy on me, what a

cargo it is! They have treated us like ambassadors, and not one of our

one-and-twenty huge boxes have been touched.

_Thursday, 6th._

Rose at eight. After breakfast, began writing to my brother; while doing

so they brought up Captain ----'s and Mr. ----'s cards. I was delighted

to see our dear Captain again, who, in spite of his glorious slip-slop,

is a glorious fellow. They sat some time. Colonel ---- called--he walks

my father off his legs. When they were all gone, finished letter and

wrote journal. Unpacked and sorted things. Opened with a trembling heart

my bonnet-box, and found my precious _Dévy_ squeezed to a crush--I

pulled it out, rebowed, and reblonded, and reflowered it, and now it

looks good enough "pour les _tha_uvages, mam_the_lle Fannie." Worked at

my muslin gown; in short, did a deal. A cheating German woman came here

this morning with some bewitching canezous and pelerines: I chose two

that I wanted, and one very pretty one that I didn't; but as she asked a

heathen price for 'em, I took only the former;--dear good little me![1]

We dined at five. After dinner, sang and played to my father, "all by

the light of the moon." The evening was, as the day had been, lovely;

and as I stood by his side near the open window, and saw him inhaling

the pure fresh air, which he said invigorated and revived him, and heard

him exclaim upon the beauty of our surroundings, half of my regret for

this exile melted away.

* * * * *

* * * * *

He said to me, "Is there not reason to be grateful to God, when we look

at these fair things?"--and indeed, indeed, there is: yet these things

are not to me what they were. He told me that he had begun a song on

board ship for the last Saturday night, but that, not feeling well, he

had given it up, but the very same ideas I had made use of had occurred

to him.

* * * * *

* * * * *

This is not surprising; the ideas were so obvious that there was no

escaping them. My father is ten years younger since he came here,

already.

* * * * *

* * * * *

Colonel ---- came in after tea, and took my father off to the Bowery

theatre. I remained with D----, singing and stitching, and gossiping

till twelve o'clock. My father has been introduced to half the town, and

tells me that far from the democratic _Mister_, which he expected to be

every man's title here, he had made the acquaintance of a score of

municipal dignitaries, and some sixty colonels and major generals--of

militia. Their omnibuses are vehicles of rank, and the _Ladies_

Washington, Clinton, and Van Rensalear,[2] rattle their crazy bones

along the pavement for all the world like any other old women of

quality.

These democrats are as title-sick as a banker's wife in England. My

father told me to-day, that Mr. ----, talking about the state of the

country, spoke of the lower orders finding their level: now this

enchants me, because a republic is a natural anomaly; there is nothing

republican in the construction of the material universe; there be

highlands and lowlands, lordly mountains as barren as any aristocracy,

and lowly valleys as productive as any labouring classes. The feeling of

rank, of inequality, is inherent in us, a part of the veneration of our

natures; and like most of our properties seldom finds its right

channels--in place of which it has created artificial ones suited to the

frame of society into which the civilised world has formed itself. I

believe in my heart that a republic is the noblest, highest, and purest

form of government; but I believe that, according to the present

disposition of human creatures, 'tis a mere beau ideal, totally

incapable of realisation. What the world may be fit for six hundred

years hence, I cannot exactly perceive; but in the mean time, 'tis my

conviction that America will be a monarchy before I am a skeleton.

One of the curses of living at an inn in this unceremonious land:--Dr.

---- walked in this evening accompanied by a gentleman, whom he

forthwith introduced to us. I behaved very _ill_, as I always do on

these occasions; but 'tis an impertinence, and I shall take good care to

certify such to be my opinion of these free-and-easy proceedings. The

man had a silly manner, but he may be a genius for all that. He abused

General Jackson, and said the cholera was owing to his presidency; for

that Clay had predicted that when he came into power, battle,

pestilence, and famine, would come upon the land: which prophecy finds

its accomplishment thus: they have had a war with the Indians, the

cholera has raged, and the people, flying from the infected cities to

the country, have eaten half the farmers out of house and home. This

hotel reminds me most extremely of our "iligant" and untidy apartments

in dear nasty Dublin, at the Shelbourne. The paper in our bed-room is

half peeling from the walls, our beds are without curtains: then to be

sure there are pier looking-glasses, and one or two pieces of showy

French furniture in it. 'Tis customary, too, here, I find, for men to

sleep three or four in a room: conceive an Englishman shown into a

dormitory for half-a-dozen! I can't think how they endure it; but,

however, I have a fever at all those things. My father asked me, this

evening, to write a sonnet about the wild pigeons welcoming us to

America; I had thought of it with scribbling intent before, but he wants

me to get it up here, and that sickened me.

_Friday, 7th._

Rose at eight: after breakfast tidied my dressing-box, mended and tucked

my white muslin gown--wrote journal: while doing so, Colonel ---- came

to take leave of us for a few days: he is going to join his wife in the

country. Mr. ---- called and remained some time; while he was here, the

waiter brought me word that a Mr. ---- wanted to see me. I sent word

down that my father was out, knowing no such person, and supposing the

waiter had mistaken whom he asked for; but the gentleman persisted in

seeing me, and presently in walked a good-looking elderly man, who

introduced himself as Mr. ----, to whom my father had letters of

introduction. He sat himself down, and pottered a little, and then went

away. When he was gone, Mr. ---- informed me that this was one of _the_

men of New York, in point of wealth, influence, and consideration. He

had been a great auctioneer, but had retired from business, having,

among his other honours, filled the office of Mayor of New York. My

father and Mr. ---- went to put our letters in the post: I practised and

needle-worked till dinner-time; after dinner, as I stood at the window

looking at the lovely sky and the brilliant earth, a curious effect of

light struck me. Within a hundred yards of each other, the Town-Hall

lay, with its white walls glowing in the sunset, while the tall grey

church-steeple was turning pale in the clear moonlight. That Town Hall

is a white-washed anomaly, and yet its effect is not altogether bad. I

took a bath at the house behind it, which is very conveniently arranged

for that purpose, with a French sort of gallery, all papered with the

story of Psyche in lead-coloured paper, that reminded me of the doughy

immortals I used to admire so much, at the inns at Abbeville and

Montreuil. The house was kept by a foreigner--I knew it. My father

proposed to us a walk, and we accordingly sallied forth. We walked to

the end of Broadway, a distance of two miles, I should think, and then

back again. The evening was most lovely. The moon was lighting the whole

upper sky, but every now and then, as we crossed the streets that led to

the river, we caught glimpses of the water, and woody banks, and the sky

that hung over them; which all were of that deep orange tint, that I

never saw but in Claude's pictures. After walking nearly a mile up

Broadway, we came to Canal Street: it is broader and finer than any I

have yet seen in New York; and at one end of it, a Christian church,

copied from some Pagan temple or other, looked exceedingly well, in the

full flood of silver light that streamed from heaven. There were many

temptations to look around, but the flags were so horribly broken and

out of order, that to do so was to run the risk of breaking one's

neck:--this is very bad.[3] The street was very much thronged, and I

thought the crowd a more civil and orderly one than an English crowd.

The men did not jostle or push one another, or tread upon one's feet, or

kick down one's shoe heels, or crush one's bonnet into one's face, or

turn it round upon one's head, all which I have seen done in London

streets. There is this to be said: this crowd was abroad merely for

pleasure, sauntering along, which is a thing never seen in London; the

proportion of idle loungers who frequent the streets there being very

inconsiderable, when compared with the number of people going on

business through the town. I observed that the young men to-night

invariably made room for women to pass, and many of them, as they drew

near us, took the cigar from their mouth, which I thought especially

courteous.[4] They were all smoking, to a man, except those who were

spitting, which helped to remind me of Paris, to which the whole place

bore a slight resemblance. The shops appear to me to make no show

whatever, and will not bear a comparison with the brilliant display of

the Parisian streets, or the rich magnificence of our own, in that

respect. The women dress very much, and very much like French women gone

mad; they all of them seem to me to walk horribly ill, as if they wore

tight shoes. Came in rather tired, took tea, sang an immensity, wrote

journal, looked at the peerless moon, and now will go to bed.

_Saturday 8th._

Stitching the whole blessed day; and as I have now no maid to look after

them, my clothes run some chance of being decently taken care of, and

kept in order. Mr. ---- and his daughter called; I like him; he appears

very intelligent; and the expression of his countenance is clever and

agreeable. His daughter was dressed up in French clothes, and looked

very stiff; but, however, a first visit is an awkward thing, and nothing

that isn't thorough-bred ever does it quite well. When they were gone,

Mr. ---- called. By the by, of Mr. ----, while he was speaking, he came

to the word _calculate_, and stopping half way, substituted another for

it, which made me laugh internally. Mercy on me! how sore all these

people are about Mrs. Trollope's book, and how glad I am I did not read

it. She must have spoken the truth though, for lies do not rankle so.

"Qui ne nous touche point ne nous fait pas rougir."

Worked till dinner-time. ---- dined with us: what a handsome man he is;

but oh, what a within-and-without actor! I wonder whether I carry such a

brand in every limb and look of me; if I thought so, I'd strangle

myself. An actor shall be self-convicted, in five hundred. There is a

ceaseless striving at effect, a straining after points in talking, and

a lamp and orange-peel twist in every action. How odious it is to me!

Absolute and unmitigated vulgarity I can put up with, and welcome; but

good Heaven defend me from the genteel version of vulgarity! to see

which in perfection, a country actor, particularly if he is also

manager, and sees occasionally people who bespeak plays, is your best

occasion. My dear father, who was a little elated, made me sing to him,

which I greatly gulped at. When he was gone, went on playing and

singing. Wrote journal, and now to bed. I'm dead of the side-ach.[5]

_Sunday, 9th._

Rose at eight. While I was dressing, D---- went out of the room, and

presently I heard sundry exclamations: "Good God, is it you! How are

you? How have you been?" I opened the door, and saw my uncle.

* * * * *

After breakfast, went to church with my father: on our way thither-ward

met the Doctor, and the Doctor's friend, and Mr. ----, to whom I have

taken an especial fancy. The church we went to is situated half way

between the Battery and our hotel. It is like a chapel in the exterior,

being quite plain, and standing close in among the houses; the interior

was large and perfectly simple. The town is filling, and the church was

well attended. 'Tis long since I have heard the church service so well

read; with so few vices of pronunciation, or vulgarisms of emphasis. Our

own clergy are shamefully negligent in this point; and if Chesterfield's

maxim be a good one in all cases, which it is, surely in the matter of

the service of God's house 'tis doubly so; they lose an immense

advantage, too, by their slovenly and careless way of delivering the

prayers, which are in themselves so beautiful, so eloquent, so full of

the very spirit of devotion; that whereas, now, a congregation seems but

to follow their leader, in gabbling them over as they do, were they

solemnly, devoutly, and impressively read, many would feel and

understand, what they now repeat mechanically, without attaching one

idea to the words they utter. There was no clerk to assist in the

service, and the congregation were as neglectful of the directions in

the prayer-book, and as indolent and remiss in uttering the responses,

as they are in our own churches; indeed, the absence of the clerk made

the inaudibility of the congregation's portion of the service more

palpable than it is with us. The organ and chanting were very good;

infinitely superior to the performances of those blessed little parish

cherubim, who monopolise the praises of God in our churches, so much to

the suffering of all good Christians not favoured with deafness. The

service is a little altered--all prayers for our King, Queen, House of

Lords, Parliament, etc., of course omitted: in lieu of which, they pray

for the President and all existing authorities. Sundry repetitions of

the Lord's Prayer, and other passages, were left out; they correct our

English, too, substituting the more modern phraseology of _those_, for

the dear old-fashioned _them_, which our prayer-book uses: as, "spare

thou _those_, O God," instead of "spare thou _them_, O God, which

confess their faults." Wherever the word wealth occurs, too, these

zealous purists, connecting that word with no idea but dollars and

cents, have replaced it by a term more acceptable to their

comprehension,--prosperity,--therefore they say, "In all time of our

prosperity (_i. e._ wealth), in all time of our tribulation," etc. I

wonder how these gentlemen interpret the word commonwealth, or whether,

in the course of their reading, they ever met with the word deprived of

the final _th_; and if so, what they imagined it meant.[6] Our prayers

were desired for some one putting out to sea; and a very touching

supplication to that effect was read, in which I joined with all my

heart. The sermon would have been good, if it had been squeezed into

half the compass it occupied; it was upon the subject of the late

terrible visitations with which God has tried the world, and was

sensibly and well delivered, only it had "damnable iteration." The day

was like an oven; after church, came home. Mr. ---- called, also Mr.

----, the Boston manager, who is longer than any human being I ever saw.

Presently after, a visit from "his honour the Recorder," a twaddling old

lawyer by the name of ----, and a silent young gentleman, his son. They

were very droll. The lawyer talked the most; at every half sentence,

however, quoting, complimenting, or appealing to "his honour the

Recorder," a little, good-tempered, turnippy-looking man, who called me

a female; and who, the other assured me, was the _Chesterfieldian_ of

New York (I don't know precisely what that means): what fun! Again I had

an opportunity of perceiving how thorough a chimera the equality is,

that we talk of as American. "There's no such thing," with a vengeance!

Here they were, talking of their aristocracy and democracy; and I'm

sure, if nothing else bore testimony to the inherent love of _higher

things_ which I believe exists in every human creature, the way in which

the lawyer dwelt upon the Duke of Montrose, lo whom, in Scotch kindred,

he is allied at the distance of some miles, and Lady Loughborough, whom

Heaven knows how he got hold of, would have satisfied me, that a my

Lord, or my Lady, are just as precious in the eyes of these levellers,

as in those of Lord and Lady-loving John Bull himself. They staid

pottering a long time. One thing his "honour the Recorder" told me,

which I wish lo remember: that the only way of preserving universal

suffrage from becoming the worst of abuses, was of course to educate the

people,[7] for which purpose a provision is made by government. Thus: a

grant of land is given, the revenue of which being estimated, the

population of the State are taxed to precisely the same amount; thus

furnishing, between the government and the people, an equal sum for the

education of all classes.[8] I do nothing but look out of window all the

blessed day long: I did not think in my old age to acquire so Jezebel a

trick; but the park (as they entitle the green opposite our windows) is

so very pretty, and the streets so gay, with their throngs of

smartly-dressed women, and so amusing with their abundant proportion of

black and white caricatures, that I find my window the most entertaining

station in the world. Read Salmonia: the natural-history part of it is

curious and interesting; but the local descriptions are beyond measure

tantalising; and the "bites," five thousand times more so. Our

ship-mate, Mr. ----, called: I was glad to see him. Poor man! how we did

_reel_ him off his legs to be sure,--what fun it was! My father dined

out: D---- and I dined _tête-à-tête_. Poor D---- has not been well

to-day: she is dreadfully bitten by the musquitoes, which, I thank their

discrimination, have a thorough contempt for me, and have not come near

me: the only things that bother me are little black ants, which I find

in my wash-hand basin, and running about in all directions. I think the

quantity of fruit brings them into the houses. After dinner, sat looking

at the blacks parading up and down; most of them in the height of the

fashion, with every colour in the rainbow about them. Several of the

black women I saw pass had very fine figures (the women here appear to

me to be remarkably small, my own being, I should think, the average

height); but the contrast of a bright blue or pink crape bonnet, with

the black face, white teeth, and glaring blue whites of the eyes, is

beyond description grotesque. The carriages here are all, to my taste,

very ugly; hung very high from the ground, and of all manner of ungainly

old-fashioned shapes. Now this is where, I think, the Americans are to

be quarrelled with: they are beginning at a time when all other nations

are arrived at the highest point of perfection, in all matters conducive

to the comfort and elegance of life: they go into these countries; into

France, into our own dear little snuggery, from whence they might bring

models of whatever was most excellent, and give them to their own

manufacturers, to imitate or improve upon. When I see these awkward

uncomfortable vehicles swinging through the streets, and think of the

beauty, the comfort, the strength, and lightness of our English-built

carriages and cabs, I am much surprised at the want of emulation and

enterprise, which can be satisfied with inferiority, when equality, if

not superiority, would be so easy.[9] At seven o'clock, D---- and I

walked out together. The evening was very beautiful, and we walked as

far as Canal Street and back. During our promenade, two fire-engines

passed us, attended by the usual retinue of shouting children; this is

about the sixth fire since yesterday evening. They are so frequent here,

that the cry "Fire, fire!" seems to excite neither alarm nor curiosity,

and except the above-mentioned pains-taking juveniles, none of the

inhabitants seem in the least disturbed by it.[10] We prosecuted our

walk down to the Battery, but just as we reached it we had to return, as

'twas tea-time. I was sorry: the whole scene was most lovely. The moon

shone full upon the trees and intersecting walks of the promenade, and

threw a bright belt of silver along the water's edge. The fresh night

wind came over the broad estuary, rippling it, and stirring the boughs

with its delicious breath. A building, which was once a fort from whence

the Americans fired upon our ships, is now turned into a sort of _café_,

and was brilliantly lighted with coloured lamps, shining among the

trees, and reflected in the water. The whole effect was pretty, and very

Parisian. We came home, and had tea, after which Mr. ---- came in. He

told us, that we must not walk alone at night, for that we might get

spoken to; and that a friend of his, seeing us go out without a man, had

followed us the whole way, in order to see that nothing happened to us:

this was very civil. Played and sang, and strove to make that stupid lad

sing, but he was shy, and would not open his mouth even the accustomed

hair's-breadth. At about eleven he went away; and we came to bed at

twelve.

_Monday, 10th._

Rose at eight. After breakfast wrote journal, and practised for an hour.

---- called. I remember taking a great fancy to him about eight years

ago, when I was a little girl in Paris; but, mercy, how he is aged! I

wonder whether I am beginning to look old yet, for it seems to me that

all the world's in wrinkles. My father went out with him. Read a canto

in Dante; also read through a volume of Bryant's poetry, which Mr. ----

had lent us, to introduce us to the American Parnassus. I liked a great

deal of it very well; and I liked the pervading spirit of it much more,

which appears to me hopeful and bright, and what the spirit of a poet

should be; for in spite of all De Staël's sayings, and Byron's doings, I

hold that melancholy is _not_ essentially the nature of a poet. Though

instances may be adduced of great poets whose Helicon has been but a

bitter well of tears, yet, in itself, the spirit of poetry appears to me

to be too strong, too bright, too full of the elements of beauty and of

excellence, too full of God's own nature, to be dark or desponding; and

though from the very fineness of his mental constitution a poet shall

suffer more intensely from the baseness and the bitterness which are the

leaven of life, yet he, of all men, the most possesses the power to

discover truth, and beauty, and goodness, where they do exist; and where

they exist not, to create them. If the clouds of existence are darker,

its sunshine is also brighter to him; and while others, less gifted,

lose themselves in the labyrinth of life, his spirit should throw light

upon the darkness, and he should walk in peace and faith over the stormy

waters, and through the uncertain night; standing as 'twere above the

earth, he views with clearer eyes its mysteries; he finds in apparent

discord glorious harmony, and to him the sum of all is good; for, in

God's works, good still abounds to the subjection of evil. 'Tis this

trustful spirit that seems to inspire Bryant, and to me, therefore, his

poetry appears essentially good. There is not much originality in it. I

scarce think there can be, in poems so entirely descriptive: his

descriptions are very beautiful, but there is some sameness in them, and

he does not escape self-repetition; but I am a bad critic, for which I

thank God! I know the tears rolled down my cheeks more than once as I

read; I know that agreeable sensations and good thoughts were suggested

by what I read; I thought some of it beautiful, and all of it wholesome

(in contradistinction to the literature of this age), and I was well

pleased with it altogether. Afterwards read a sort of satirical

burlesque, called "Fanny," by Hallek: the wit being chiefly confined to

local allusions and descriptions of New York manners, I could not derive

much amusement from it.

* * * * *

* * * * *

When my father came home, went with him to call on Mrs. ----. What I saw

of the house appeared to me very pretty, and well adapted to the heat of

the season. A large and lofty room, paved with India matting, and

furnished with white divans, and chairs, no other furniture encumbering

or cramming it up; it looked very airy and cool. Our hostess did not put

herself much out of the way to entertain us, but after the first "how do

you do," continued conversing with another visiter, leaving us to the

mercy of a very pretty young lady, who carried on the conversation at an

average of a word every three minutes. Neither Mr. ---- nor his eldest

daughter were at home; the latter, however, presently came in, and

relieved her sister and me greatly. We sat the proper time, and then

came away.

* * * * *

This is a species of intercourse I love not any where. I never practised

it in my own blessed land, neither will I here. We dined at six: after

dinner played and sang till eight, and then walked out with D---- and my

father, by the most brilliant moonlight in the world. We went down to

the Battery; the aquatic Vauxhall was lighted up very gaily, and they

were sending up rockets every few minutes, which, shooting athwart the

sky, threw a bright stream of light over the water, and, falling back in

showers of red stars, seemed to sink away before the steadfast shining

of the moon, who held high supremacy in heaven. The bay lay like molten

silver under her light, and every now and then a tiny skiff, emerging

from the shade, crossed the bright waters, its dark hull and white sails

relieved between the shining sea and radiant sky. Came home at nine,

tea'd and sat embroidering till twelve o'clock, industrious little me.

_Tuesday, 11th._

This day week we landed in New York; and this day was its prototype,

rainy, dull, and dreary; with occasional fits of sunshine, and light

delicious air, as capricious as a fine lady. After breakfast, Colonel

---- called. Wrote journal, and practised till one o'clock. My father

then set off with Colonel ---- for Hoboken, a place across the water,

famous once for duelling, but now the favourite resort of a

turtle-eating club, who go there every Tuesday to cook and swallow

turtle. The day was as bad as a party of pleasure could expect, (and

when were their expectations of bad weather disappointed?) nathless, my

father, at the Colonel's instigation, _persevered_, and went forth,

leaving me his card of invitation, which made me scream for half an

hour; the wording as follows:--"Sir, the Hoboken Turtle Club will meet

at the grove, for _spoon exercise_, on Tuesday, the 11th inst., by order

of the President." Mr. ---- and the Doctor paid us a visit of some

length.

* * * * *

When they were gone, read a canto in Dante, and sketched till four

o'clock. I wish I could make myself draw. I want to do every thing in

the world that can be done, and, by the by, that reminds me of my

German, which I must _persecute_. At four o'clock sent for a

hair-dresser, that I might in good time see that I am not made an object

on my first night. He was a Frenchman, and after listening profoundly to

my description of the head-dress I wanted, replied, as none but a

Frenchman could, "_Madame, la difficulté n'est pas d'exécuter votre

coiffure, mais de la bien concevoir_." However, he conceived and

executed sundry very smooth-looking bows, and, upon the whole, dressed

my hair very nicely, but charged a dollar for so doing; O nefarious!

D---- and I dined _tête-à-tête_; the evening was sulky--I was in

miserable spirits.

* * * * *

Sat working till my father came home, which he did at about half past

six. His account of his dinner was any thing but delightful; to be sure

he has no taste for rainy ruralities, and his feeling description of the

damp ground, damp trees, damp clothes, and damp atmosphere, gave me the

_rheumatiz_, letting alone that they had nothing to eat but turtle, and

that out of iron spoons.--"Ah, you vill go a pleasuring."

* * * * *

* * * * *

He had a cold before, and I fear this will make him very ill. He went

like wisdom to take a vapour bath directly. ---- came, and sat with us

till he returned. Had tea at eight, and embroidered till midnight. The

wind is rioting over the earth. I should like to see the Hudson now. The

black clouds, like masses of dark hair, are driven over the moon's pale

face; the red lights and fire engines are dancing up and down; the

streets, the church bells are all tolling--'tis sad and strange.

'Tis all in vain, it may not last,

The sickly sunlight dies away,

And the thick clouds that veil the past

Roll darkly o'er my present day.

Have I not flung them off, and striven

To seek some dawning hope in vain?

Have I not been for ever driven

Back to the bitter past again?

What though a brighter sky bends o'er

Scenes where no former image greets me?

Though lost in paths untrod before,

Here, even here, pale Memory meets me.

Oh life--oh blighted bloomless tree!

Why cling thy fibres to the earth?

Summer can bring no flower to thee,

Autumn no bearing, spring no birth.

Bid me not strive, I'll strive no more,

To win from pain my joyless breast;

Sorrow has plough'd too deeply o'er

Life's Eden--let it take the rest!

_Wednesday, 12th._

Rose at eight. After breakfast, heard my father say Hamlet. How

beautiful his whole conception of that part is! and yet it is but an

actor's conception too.

* * * * *

* * * * *

I am surprised at any body's ever questioning the real madness of

Hamlet: I know but one passage in the play which tells against it, and

there are a thousand that go to prove it. But leaving all isolated parts

out of the question, the entire colour of the character is the proper

ground from which to draw the right deduction. Gloomy, desponding,

ambitious, and disappointed in his ambition, full of sorrow for a dead

father, of shame for a living mother, of indignation for his ill-filled

inheritance, of impatience at his own dependent position; of a

thoughtful, doubtful, questioning spirit, looking with timid boldness

from the riddles of earth and life, to those of death and the mysterious

land beyond it; weary of existence upon its very threshold, and withheld

alone from self-destruction by religious awe, and that pervading

uncertainty of mind which stands on the brink, brooding over the unseen

may-be of another world; in love, moreover, and sad and dreamy in his

affection, as in every other sentiment; for there is not enough of

absolute passion in his love to make it a powerful and engrossing

interest; had it been such, the entireness and truth of Hamlet's

character would have been destroyed. 'Tis love indeed, but a pulseless

powerless love; gentle, refined, and tender, but without ardour or

energy; such are the various elements of Hamlet's character, at the very

beginning of the play: then see what follows. A frightful and unnatural

visitation from the dead; a horrible and sudden revelation of the murder

of the father for whom his soul is in mourning; thence burning hatred

and thirst of vengeance against his uncle; double loathing of his

mother's frailty; above all, that heaviest burden that a human creature

can have put upon him, an imperative duty calling for fulfilment, and a

want of resolution and activity to meet the demand; thence an unceasing

struggle between the sluggish nature and the upbraiding soul; an eternal

self-spurring and self-accusing: from which mental conflict, alone

sufficient to unseat a stronger mind, he finds relief in fits of

desponding musing, the exhaustion of overwrought powers. Then comes the

vigilant and circumspect guard he is forced to keep upon every word,

look, and action, lest they reveal his terrible secret; the suspicion

and mistrust of all that surround him, authorised by his knowledge of

his uncle's nature: his constant watchfulness over the spies that are

set to watch him; then come, in the course of events, Polonius's death,

the unintentional work of his own sword, the second apparition of his

father's ghost, his banishment to England, still haunted by his

treacherous friends, the miserable death of poor Ophelia, together with

the unexpected manner of his first hearing of it--if all these--the

man's own nature, sad and desponding--his educated nature (at a German

university), reasoning and metaphysical--and the nature he acquires from

the tutelage of events, bitter, dark, amazed, and uncertain; if these do

not make up as complete a madman as ever walked between heaven and

earth, I know not what does.[11] Wrote journal, and began to practise;

while doing so, ---- called; he said that he was accompanied by some

friends who wished to see me, and were at the door. I've heard of men's

shutting the door in the face of a dun, and going out the back way to

escape a bailiff--but how to get rid of such an attack as this I knew

not, and was therefore fain to beg the gentlemen would walk in, and

accordingly in they walked, four as fine-grown men as you would wish to

see on a summer's day. I was introduced to this regiment man by man, and

thought, as my Sheffield friend would say, "If _them_ be American

manners, defend me from them." They are traders, to be sure; but I never

heard of such wholesale introduction in my life. They sat a little

while, behaved very like Christians, and then departed. Captain ---- and

---- called,--the former to ask us to come down and see the Pacific,

poor old lady! When they were gone, practised, read a canto in Dante,

and translated verbatim a German fable, which kept me till dinner-time.

After dinner, walked out towards the Battery. ---- joined us. It was

between sunset and moonrise, and a lovelier light never lay upon sea,

earth, and sky. The horizon was bright orange colour, fading as it rose

to pale amber, which died away again into the modest violet colour of

twilight; this possessed the main sky wholly, except where two or three

masses of soft dark purple clouds floated, from behind which the stars

presently winked at us with their bright eyes. The river lay as still as

death, though there was a delicious fresh air: tiny boats were stealing

like shadows over the water; and every now and then against the orange

edge of the sky moved the masts of some schooner, whose hull was hidden

in the deep shadow thrown over it by the Jersey coast. A band was

playing in the Castle garden, and not a creature but ourselves seemed

abroad to see all this loveliness. Fashion makes the same fools all the

world over; and Broadway, with its crowded dusty pavement, and in the

full glare of day, is preferable, in the eyes of the New York

promenaders, to this cool and beautiful walk. Came home at about nine.

On the stairs met that odious Dr. ----, who came into the drawing-room

without asking or being asked, sat himself down, and called me "Miss

Fanny." I should like to have thrown my tea at him! ---- sent up his

name and presently followed it. I like to see any of our

fellow-passengers, however little such society would have pleased me

under any other circumstances; but necessity "makes us acquainted with

strange bedfellows;" and these my ship-mates will, to the end of time,

be my very good friends and boon companions. My father went to the Park

theatre, to see a man of the name of Hacket give an American

entertainment after Matthews's at-home fashion. I would not go, but

staid at home looking at the moon, which was glorious.

* * * * *

* * * * *

To-night, as I stood watching that surpassing sunset, I would have given

it all--gold, and purple, and all--for a wreath of English fog stealing

over the water.

_Thursday, 13th._

Rose late: there was music in the night, which is always a strange

enchantment to me. After breakfast, wrote journal. At eleven, Captain

---- and ---- called for us; and my uncle having joined us, we proceeded

to the slip, as they call the places where the ships lie, and which

answer to our docks. Poor dear Pacific! I ran up her side with great

glee, and was introduced to Captain ----, her old commander; rushed down

into my berth, and was actually growing pathetic over the scene of my

sea-sorrows, when Mr. ---- clapped his hands close to me, and startled

me out of my reverie. Certainly my _adhesiveness_ must either be very

large, or uncommonly active just now, for my heart yearned towards the

old timbers with exceeding affection. The old ship was all drest out in

her best, and after sitting for some time in our cabin, we adjourned to

the larger one and lunched. Mr. ---- joined our party; and we had one or

two of our old ship songs, with their ridiculous burdens, with due

solemnity. Saw Mr. ----, but not dear M. ----. Visited the forecastle,

whence I have watched such glorious sunsets, such fair uprisings of the

starry sisterhood; now it looked upon the dusty quay and dirty dock

water, and the graceful sails were all stripped away, and the bare masts

and rigging shone in the intense sunlight. Poor good ship! I wish to

Heaven my feet were on her deck, and her prow turned to the east. I

would not care if the devil himself drove a hurricane at our backs.

Visited the fish and fruit markets:[12] it was too late in the day to

see either to advantage, but the latter reminded me of Aladdin's

treasure: the heaps of peaches, filling with their rich downy balls high

baskets ranged in endless rows, and painted of a bright vermilion

colour, which threw a ruddy ripeness over the fruit. The enormous

baskets (such as are used in England to carry linen) piled with melons,

the wild grapes, the pears, and apples, all so plenteous, so fragrant,

so beautiful in form and colour, leading the mind to the wondrous

bounteousness which has dowered this land with every natural

treasure--the whole enchanted me. ----, to my horror, bought a couple of

beautiful live wild-pigeons, which he carried home, head downwards, one

in each coat pocket. We parted from him at the Park gate, and proceeded

to Murray Street, to look at the furnished house my father wishes to

take. Upon enquiry, however, we found that it was already let. The day

was bright and beautiful, and my father proposed crossing the river to

Hoboken, the scene of the turtle-eating expedition. We did so

accordingly: himself, D----, Mr. ----, and I. Steamers go across every

five minutes, conveying passengers on foot and horseback, gigs,

carriages, carts, any thing and every thing. The day was lovely--the

broad bright river was gemmed with a thousand sails. Away to the right

it stretched between richly-wooded banks, placid and blue as a lake; to

the left, in the rocky doorway of the narrows, two or three ships stood

revealed against the cloudless sky. We reached the opposite coast, and

walked. It was nearly three miles from where we landed to the scene of

the "_spoon-exercise_." The whole of our route lay through a beautiful

wild plantation, or rather strip of wood, I should say, for 'tis

nature's own gardening which crowns the high bank of the river; through

which trellis-work of varied foliage we caught exquisite glimpses of the

glorious waters, the glittering city, and the opposite banks, decked out

in all the loveliest contrast of sunshine and shade. As we stood in our

leafy colonnade looking out upon this fair scene, the rippling water

made sweet music far down below us, striking with its tiny silver waves

the smooth sand and dark-coloured rocks from which they were ebbing.

Many of the trees were quite new to me, and delighted me with their

graceful forms and vivid foliage. The broad-leaved catalpa, and the

hickory with its bright coral-coloured berries. Many lovely lowly

things, too, grew by our pathside, which we gathered as we passed, to

bring away, but which withered in our hands ere we returned. Gorgeous

butterflies were zigzagging through the air, and for the first time I

longed to imprison them. In pursuing one, I ran into the midst of a slip

of clover land, but presently jumped out again, on hearing the swarms

of grasshoppers round me. Mr. ---- caught one; it was larger and thicker

than the English grasshopper, and of a dim mottled brown colour, like

the plumage of our common moth; but presently, on his opening his hand

to let it escape, it spread out a pair of dark purple wings, tipped with

pale primrose colour, and flew away a beautiful butterfly, such as the

one I had been seduced by. The slips of grass ground on the left of our

path were the only things that annoyed me: they were ragged, and rank,

and high,--they wanted mowing; and if they had been mowed soft, and

thick, and smooth, like an English lawn, how gloriously the lights and

shadows of this lovely sky would fall through the green roof of this

wood upon them! There is nothing in nature that, to my fancy, receives

light and shade with as rich an effect as sloping lawn land. Oh!

England, England! how I have seen your fresh emerald mantle deepen and

brighten in a summer's day. About a hundred yards from the place where

they dined on Tuesday, with no floor but the damp earth, no roof but the

dripping trees, stands a sort of _café_; a long, low, pretty

Italianish-looking building. The wood is cleared away in front of it,

and it commands a lovely view of the Hudson and its opposite shores: and

here they might have been sheltered and comfortable, but I suppose it

was not yet the appointed day of the month with them for eating their

dinner within walls; and, rather than infringe on an established rule,

they preferred catching a cold apiece. The place where they met in the

open air is extremely beautiful, except, of course, on a rainy day. The

shore is lower just here; and though there are trees enough to make

shade all round, and a thick screen of wood and young undergrowth

behind, the front is open to the river, which makes a bend just below,

forming a lake-like bay, round which again the coast rises into rocky

walls covered with rich foliage. Upon one of these promontories, in the

midst of a high open knoll, surrounded and overhung by higher grounds

covered with wood, stood the dwelling of the owner of the land, high

above the river, overlooking its downward course to the sea, perched

like an eagle's aërie, half-way between heaven and the level earth, but

beautifully encircled with waving forests, a shade in summer and a

shelter in winter. My father, D----, and my bonnet sat down in the

shade. Mr. ---- and I clambered upon some pieces of rock at the water's

edge, whence we looked out over river and land--a fair sight. "Oh!" I

exclaimed, pointing to the highlands on our left, through whose rich

foliage the rifted granite looked cold and grey, "what a place for a

scramble! there must be lovely walks there." "Ay," returned my

companion, "and a few rattle-snakes too."[13] We found D----, my father,

and my bonnet buffeting with a swarm of musquitoes; this is a great

nuisance. We turned our steps homeward. I picked up a nut enclosed like

a walnut in a green case. I opened it; it was not ripe; but in

construction exactly like a walnut, with the same bitter filmy skin over

the fruit, which is sweet and oily, and like a walnut in flavour also.

Mr. ---- told me it was called a marrow-nut. The tree on which it grew

had foliage of the acacia kind. We had to rush to meet the steam-boat,

which was just going across. The whole walk reminded me of that part of

Oatlands which, from its wild and tangled woodland, they call America.

* * * * *

* * * * *

There must have been something surpassingly beautiful in our

surroundings, for even Mr. ----, into whose composition I suspect much

of the poetical element does not enter, began expatiating on the

happiness of the original possessors of these fair lands and waters, the

Indians--the Red Children of the soil, who followed the chase through

these lovely wildernesses, and drove their light canoes over these broad

streams--"great nature's happy commoners,"--till the predestined curse

came on them, till the white sails of the invaders threw their shadow

over these seas, and the work of extermination began in these wild

fastnesses of freedom. The destruction of the original inhabitants of a

country by its discoverers, always attended, as it is, with injustice

and cruelty, appears to me one of the most mysterious dispensations of

Providence.

The chasing, enslaving, and destroying creatures, whose existence,

however inferior, is as justly theirs as that of the most refined

European is his; who for the most part, too, receive their enemies with

open-handed hospitality, until taught treachery by being betrayed, and

cruelty by fear; the driving the child of the soil off it, or, what is

fifty times worse, chaining him to till it; all the various forms of

desolation which have ever followed the landing of civilised men upon

uncivilised shores; in short, the theory and practice of discovery and

conquest, as recorded in all history, is a very singular and painful

subject of contemplation.

'Tis true that cultivation and civilisation, the arts and sciences that

render life useful, the knowledge that ennobles, the adornments that

refine existence, above all, the religion that is the most sacred trust

and dear reward, all these, like pure sunshine and healthful airs

following a hurricane, succeed the devastation of the invader; but the

sufferings of those who are swept away are not the less; and though I

believe that good alone is God's result, it seems a fearful proof of the

evil wherewith this earth is cursed, that good cannot progress but over

such a path. No one beholding the prosperous and promising state of this

fine country, could wish it again untenanted of its enterprising and

industrious possessors; yet even while looking with admiration at all

that they have achieved, with expectation amounting to certainty to all

that they will yet accomplish, 'tis difficult to refrain from bestowing

some thoughts of pity and of sadness upon those whose homes have been

overturned, whose language has passed away, and whose feet are daily

driven further from those territories of which they were once sole and

sovereign lords. How strange it is to think, that less than one hundred

years ago, these shores, resounding with the voice of populous

cities,--these waters, laden with the commerce of the wide world,--were

silent wildernesses, where sprang and fell the forest leaves, where

ebbed and flowed the ocean tides from day to day, and from year to year,

in uninterrupted stillness; where the great sun, who looked on the vast

empires of the East, its mouldering kingdoms, its lordly palaces, its

ancient temples, its swarming cities, came and looked down upon the

still dwelling of utter loneliness, where nature sat enthroned in

everlasting beauty, undisturbed by the far off din of worlds "beyond the

flood."[14]

Came home rather tired: my father asked Mr. ---- to dine with us, but he

could not. After dinner, sat working till ten o'clock, when ---- came to

take leave of us. He is going off to-morrow morning to Philadelphia, but

will be back for our Tuesday's dinner. The people here are all up and

about very early in the morning. I went out at half-past eight, and

found all Broadway abroad.

_Friday, 14th._

Forget all about it, except that I went about the town with Colonel

----.

* * * * *

went to see his Quaker wife, whom I liked very much.

* * * * *

Drove all about New-York, which more than ever reminded me of the towns

in France: passed the Bowery theatre, which is a handsome

finely-proportioned building, with a large brazen eagle plastered on the

pediment, for all the world like an insurance mark, or the sign of the

spread eagle: this is nefarious! We passed a pretty house, which Colonel

---- called an old mansion; mercy on me, him, and it! Old! I thought of

Warwick Castle, of Hatfield, of Chequers, of Hopwood--old! and there it

stood, with its white pillars and Italian-looking portico, for all the

world like one of our own cit's yesterday-grown boxes. Old, quotha! the

woods and waters and hills and skies alone are old here; the works of

men are in the very greenness and unmellowed imperfection of youth:

true, 'tis a youth full of vigorous sap and glorious promise; spring,

laden with blossoms, foretelling abundant and rich produce, and so let

them be proud of it. But the worst of it is, the Americans are not

satisfied with glorying in what they are,--which, considering the time

and opportunities they have had, is matter of glory quite

sufficient,--they are never happy without comparing this their sapling

to the giant oaks of the old world,--and what can one say to that? _Is_

New-York like London? No, by my two troths it is not; but the oak was an

acorn once, and New York will surely, if the world holds together long

enough, become a lordly city, such as we know of beyond the sea.

Went in the evening to see Wallack act the Brigand; it was his benefit,

and the house was very good. He is perfection in this sort of thing, yet

there were one or two blunders even in his melo-dramatic acting of this

piece; however, he looks very like the thing, and it is very nice to

see--once.

_Saturday, 15th._

Sat stitching all the blessed day. So we are to go to _Philadelphia_

before _Boston_. I'm sorry. The H----s will be disappointed, and I shall

get no riding, _che seccatura!_ At five dressed, and went to the ----,

where we were to dine. This is one of the first houses here, so I

conclude that I am to consider what I see as a tolerable sample of the

ways and manners of being, doing, and suffering of the _best society_ in

New York. There were about twenty people; the women were in a sort of

French demi-toilette, with bare necks, and long sleeves, heads frizzed

out after the very last _Petit Courier_, and thread net handkerchiefs

and capes; the whole of which, to my English eye, appeared a strange

marrying of incongruities. The younger daughter of our host is

beautiful; a young and brilliant likeness of Ellen Tree, with more

refinement, and a smile that was, not to say a ray, but a whole focus of

sun rays, a perfect blaze of light; she was much taken up with a youth,

to whom, my neighbour at dinner informed me, she was engaged.

* * * * *

The women here, like those of most warm climates, ripen very early, and

decay proportionably soon. They are, generally speaking, pretty, with

good complexions, and an air of freshness and brilliancy, but this, I am

told, is very evanescent; and whereas, in England, a woman is in the

full bloom of health and beauty from twenty to five-and-thirty, here

they scarcely reach the first period without being faded and looking

old.[15] They marry very young, and this is another reason why age comes

prematurely upon them. There was a fair young thing at dinner to-day who

did not look above seventeen, and she was a wife. As for their figures,

like those of French women, they are too well dressed for one to judge

exactly what they are really like: they are, for the most part, short

and slight, with remarkably pretty feet and ankles; but there's too much

pelerine and petticoat, and "de quoi" of every sort, to guess any thing

more.

* * * * *

* * * * *

There was a Mr. ----, the Magnus Apollo of New York, who is a musical

genius: sings as well as any gentleman need sing, pronounces Italian

well, and accompanies himself without false chords; all which renders

him _the_ man round whom (as round H----, G----, Lord C----, and that

pretty Lord O----, in our own country) the women listen and languish. He

sang the Phantom Bark: the last time I heard it was from the lips of

Moore, with two of the loveliest faces in all the world hanging over

him, Mrs. N----, and Mrs. B----. By the by, the man who sat next me at

dinner was asking me all manner of questions about Mrs. N----: among

others, whether she was "as pale as a poetess ought to be?" Oh! how I

wish Corinne had but heard that herself! what a deal of funny scorn

would have looked beautiful on her rich brown cheek and brilliant lips.

The dinner was plenteous, and tolerably well dressed, but ill served:

there were not half servants enough, and we had neither water-glasses

nor finger-glasses. Now, though I don't eat with my fingers (except

peaches, whereat I think the aborigines, who were paring theirs like so

many potatoes, seemed rather amazed), yet do I hold a finger-glass at

the conclusion of my dinner a requisite to comfort. After dinner we had

coffee, but no tea, whereat my English taste was in high dudgeon. The

gentlemen did not sit long, and when they joined us, Mr. ----, as I said

before, uttered sweet sounds. By the by, I was not a little amused at

Mrs. ---- asking me whether I had heard of his singing, or their musical

soirées, and seeming all but surprised that I had no revelations of

either across the Atlantic. Mercy on me! what fools people are all over

the world! The worst is, they are all fools of the same sort, and there

is no profit whatever in travelling. Mr. B----, who is an Englishman,

happened to ask me if I knew Captain ----, whereupon we immediately

struck up a conversation, and talked over English folks and doings

together, to my entire satisfaction. The ---- were there: he is brother

to that wondrous ruler of the spirits whom I did so dislike in London,

and his lady is a daughter of Lord ----.

* * * * *

* * * * *

I was very glad to come home. I sang to them two or three things, but

the piano was pitched too high for my voice; by the by, in that large,

lofty, fine room, they had a tiny, old-fashioned, becurtained cabinet

piano stuck right against the wall, unto which the singer's face was

turned, and into which his voice was absorbed. We had hardly regained

our inn and uncloaked, when there came a tap at the door, and in walked

Mr. ---- to ask me if we would not join them (himself and the ----) at

supper. He said that, besides five being a great deal too early to dine,

he had not half dinner enough; and then began the regular English

quizzing of every thing and every body we had left behind. Oh dear, oh

dear! how thoroughly English it was, and how it reminded me of H----; of

course, we did not accept their invitation, but it furnished me matter

of amusement. How we English folks do cling to our own habits, our own

views, our own things, our own people; how, in spite of all our

wanderings and scatterings over the whole face of the earth, like so

many Jews, we never lose our distinct and national individuality; nor

fail to lay hold of one another's skirts, to laugh at and depreciate all

that differs from that country, which we delight in forsaking for any

and all others.

_Sunday, 16th._

Rose at eight. After breakfast, walked to church with the C----s and Mr.

B----. They went to Grace Church for the music; we stopped short to go

to the ---- pew in the Episcopal church. The pew was crammed, I am sorry

to say, owing to our being there, which they had pressed so earnestly,

that we thought ourselves bound to accept the invitation. The sermon was

tolerably good; better than the average sermons one hears in London, and

sufficiently well delivered. After church, I---- called, also two men of

the name of M----, large men, very! also Mr. B---- and Mr. C----: when

they were all gone, wrote journal, and began a letter to J----. Dined at

five; after dinner, went on with my letter to J----, and wrote an

immense one to dear H----, which kept me pen in hand till past twelve. A

tremendous thunderstorm came on, which lasted from nine o'clock till

past two in the morning: I never saw but one such in my life; and that

was our memorable Weybridge storm, which only exceeded this in the

circumstance of my having seen a thunderbolt fall during that paroxysm

of the elements. But this was very glorious, awful, beautiful, and

tremendous. The lightning played without the intermission of a second,

in wide sheets of purple glaring flame, that trembled over the earth for

nearly two or three seconds at a time; making the whole world, river,

sky, trees, and buildings, look like a ghostly universe cut out in

chalk. The light over the water, which absolutely illumined the shore on

the other side with the broad glare of full day, was of a magnificent

purple colour. The night was pitchy dark, too; so that between each of

these ghastly smiles of the devil, the various pale steeples and

buildings, which seemed at every moment to leap from nothing into

existence, after standing out in fearful relief against a back-ground of

fire, were hidden like so many dreams in deep and total darkness. God's

music rolled along the heavens; the forked lightnings now dived from the

clouds into the very bosom of the city, now ran like tangled threads of

fire all round the blazing sky. "The big bright rain came dancing to the

earth," the wind clapped its huge wings, and swept through the dazzling

glare; and as I stood, with eyes half veiled (for the light was too

intense even upon the ground to be looked at with unshaded eyes), gazing

at this fierce holiday of the elements--at the mad lightning--at

the brilliant shower, through which the flashes shone like

daylight--listening to the huge thunder, as its voice resounded, and its

heavy feet rebounded along the clouds--and the swift spirit-like wind

rushing triumphantly along, uttering its wild pæan over the amazed

earth;--I felt more intensely than I ever did before the wondrous might

of these God's powerful and beautiful creatures; the wondrous might,

majesty, and awfulness of him their Lord, beneath whose footstool they

lie chained, by his great goodness made the ministers of good to this

our lowly dwelling-place. I did not go to bed till two; the storm

continued to rage long after that.

_Monday, 17th._

Rose at eight. At twelve, went to rehearsal. The weather is intolerable;

I am in a state of perpetual fusion. The theatre is the coolest place I

have yet been in, I mean at rehearsal; when the front is empty, and the

doors open, and the stage is so dark that we are obliged to rehearse by

candlelight. That washed-out man, who failed in London when he acted

Romeo with me, is to be my Fazio; let us hope he will know some of his

words to-morrow night, for he is at present most innocent of any such

knowledge. After rehearsal, walked into a shop to buy some gauze: the

shopmen called me by my name, entered into conversation with us; and one

of them, after showing me a variety of things which I did not want,

said, that they were most anxious to show me every attention, and render

my stay in this country agreeable. A Christian, I suppose, would have

met these benevolent advances with an infinitude of thankfulness, and an

outpouring of grateful pleasure; but for my own part, though I had the

grace to smile and say, "Thank you," I longed to add, "but be so good as

to measure your ribands, and hold your tongue." I have no idea of

holding parley with clerks behind a counter, still less of their doing

so with me. So much for my first impression of the courtesy of this land

of liberty. I should have been much better pleased if they had called me

"Ma'am," which they did not. We dined at three. V---- and Colonel ----

called after dinner. At seven, went to the theatre. It was my dear

father's first appearance in this new world, and my heart ached with

anxiety. The weather was intensely hot, yet the theatre was crowded:

when he came on, they gave him what every body here calls an immense

reception; but they should see our London audience get up, and wave

hats and handkerchiefs, and shout welcome as they do to us. The tears

were in my eyes, and all I could say was, "They might as well get up, I

think." My father looked well, and acted beyond all praise; but oh, what

a fine and delicate piece of work this is! There is not one sentence,

line, or word of this part which my father has not sifted grain by

grain; there is not one scene or passage to which he does not give its

fullest and most entire substance, together with a variety that relieves

the intense study of the whole with wonderful effect.

* * * * *

* * * * *

I think that it is impossible to conceive Hamlet more truly, or execute

it more exquisitely, than he does. The refinement, the tenderness, the

grace, dignity, and princely courtesy with which he invests it from

beginning to end, are most lovely; and some of the slighter passages,

which, like fine tints to the incapable eyes of blindness, must always

pass unnoticed, and, of course, utterly uncomprehended, by the

discriminating public, enchanted me.

* * * * *

* * * * *

His voice was weak, from nervousness and the intolerable heat of the

weather, and he was not well dressed, which was a pity.

* * * * *

* * * * *

The play was well got up, and went off very well. The ---- were there, a

regiment of them; also Colonel ---- and Captain ----. After the play,

came home to supper.

_Tuesday, 18th._

Rose at eight. At eleven, went to rehearsal. Mr. Keppel is just as

nervous and as imperfect as ever: what on earth will he, or shall I, do

to-night! Came home, got things out for the theatre, and sat like any

stroller stitching for dear life at my head-dress. Mr. H---- and his

nephew called: the latter asked me if I was at all apprehensive? No, by

my troth, I am not; and that not because I feel sure of success, for I

think it very probable the Yankees may like to show their critical

judgment and independence by damning me; but because, thank God, I do

not care whether they do or not: the whole thing is too loathsome to me,

for either failure or success to affect me in the least, and therefore

I feel neither nervous nor anxious about it. We dined at three: after

dinner, J---- came; he sat some time. When he was gone, I came into the

drawing-room, and found a man sitting with my father, who presented him

to me by some inaudible name. I sat down, and the gentleman pursued his

conversation as follows:--"When Clara Fisher came over, Barry wrote to

me about her, and I wrote him back word: 'My dear fellow, if your bella

donna is such as you describe, why, we'll see what we can do; we will

take her by the hand.'" This was enough for me. I jumped up, and ran out

of the room; because a newspaper writer is my aversion. At half-past

six, went to the theatre. They acted the farce of Popping the Question

first, in order, I suppose, to get the people to their places before the

play began. Poor Mr. Keppel was gasping for breath; he moved my

compassion infinitely; I consoled and comforted him all I could, gave

him some of my lemonade to swallow, for he was choking with fright; sat

myself down with my back to the audience, and up went the curtain. Owing

to the position in which I was sitting, and my plain dress, most

unheroine-like in its make and colour, the people did not know me, and

would not have known me for some time, if that stupid man had done as I

kept bidding him, gone on; but instead of doing so, he stood stock

still, looked at me, and then at the audience, whereupon the latter

caught an inkling of the truth, and gave me such a reception as I get in

Covent Garden theatre every time I act a new part. The house was very

full; all the ---- were there, and Colonel ----. Mr. Keppel was

frightened to death, and in the very second speech was quite out: it was

in vain that I prompted him; he was too nervous to take the word, and

made a complete mess of it. This happened more than once in the first

scene; and at the end of the first act, as I left the stage, I said to

D----, "It's all up with me, I can't do any thing now;" for, having to

prompt my Fazio, frightened by his fright, annoyed by his forgetting his

crossings and positions, utterly unable to work myself into any thing

like excitement, I thought the whole thing must necessarily go to

pieces. However, once rid of my encumbrance, which I am at the end of

the second act, I began to move a little more freely, gathered up my

strength, and set to work comfortably by myself; whereupon, the people

applauded, I warmed (warmed, quotha! the air was steam), and got through

very satisfactorily, at least so it seems. My dresses were very

beautiful; but oh, but oh, the musquitoes had made dreadful havoc with

my arms, which were covered with hills as large and red as Vesuvius in

an eruption. After the play, my father introduced me to Mr. B----, Lord

S----'s brother, who was behind the scenes; his brother's place, by the

by. Came home, supped.

* * * * *

* * * * *

Came to bed at half past twelve; weary, and half melted away. The ants

swarm on the floors, on the tables, in the beds, about one's clothes;

the plagues of Egypt were a joke to them: horrible! it makes one's life

absolutely burdensome, to have creatures creeping about one, and all

over one, night and day, this fashion; to say nothing of those

cantankerous stinging things, the musquitoes.

_Wednesday, 19th._

D---- did not call me till ten o'clock, whereat I was in furious

dudgeon. Got up, breakfasted, and off to rehearsal; Romeo and Juliet.

Mr. Keppel has been dismissed, poor man! I'm sorry for him: my father is

to play Romeo with me, I'm sorrier still for that. After rehearsal, came

home, dawdled about my room: Mr. ---- called: he is particularly fond of

music. My father asked him to try the piano, which he accordingly did,

and was playing most delightfully, when in walked Mr. ----, and by and

by Colonel ----, with his honour the Recorder, and General ---- of the

militia. I amused myself with looking over some exquisite brown silk

stockings, wherewith I mean to match my gown. When they were all gone,

dawdled about till time to dress. So poor dear H---- can't come from

Philadelphia for our dinner--dear, I'm quite sorry! At five our party

assembled; we were but thin in numbers, and the half empty table,

together with the old ship faces, made it look, as some one observed, as

if it was blowing hard. Our dinner was neither good nor well served, the

wine not half iced. At the end of it, my father gave Captain ---- his

claret-jug, wherewith that worthy seemed much satisfied.

* * * * *

We left the table soon; came and wrote journal. When the gentlemen

joined us, they were all more or less "how com'd you so indeed?" Mr.

---- and Mr. ---- particularly. They put me down to the piano, and once

or twice I thought I must have screamed. On one side _vibrated_ dear

Mr. ----, threatening my new gown with a cup of coffee, which he held at

an awful angle from the horizontal line; singing with every body who

opened their lips, and uttering such dreadfully discordant little

squeals and squeaks, that I thought I should have died of suppressed

laughter. On the other side, rather _concerned_, but not quite so much

so, stood the Irishman; who, though warbling a little out of tune, and

flourishing somewhat luxuriantly, still retained enough of his right

senses to discriminate between Mr. ----'s yelps and singing, properly so

called; and accordingly pished!--and pshawed!--and oh Lorded!--and good

heavened! away,-- staring at the perpetrator with indignant horror

through his spectacles, while his terrified wig stood on end in every

direction, each particular hair appearing vehemently possessed with the

centrifugal force. They all went away in good time, and we came to bed.

----To bed--to sleep--

To sleep!--perchance to be bitten! ay--there's the scratch:

And in that sleep of ours what bugs may come,

Must give us pause.

_Thursday, 20th._

Rose at eight. After breakfast, went to rehearse Romeo and Juliet. Poor

Mr. Keppel is fairly laid on the shelf; I'm sorry for him! What a funny

passion he had, by the by, for going down upon his knees. In Fazio, at

the end of the judgment scene, when I was upon mine, down he went upon

his, making the most absurd devout-looking _vis-à-vis_ I ever beheld: in

the last scene, too, when he ought to have been going off to execution,

down he went again upon his knees, and no power on earth could get him

up again, for Lord knows how long. Poor fellow, he bothered me a good

deal, yet I'm sincerely sorry for him. At the end of our rehearsal, came

home. The weather is sunny, sultry, scorching, suffocating. Ah! Mr. ----

called. This is an indifferent imitation of bad fine manners amongst us;

"he speaks small, too, like a gentleman." He sat for a long time,

talking over the opera, and all the prima donnas in the world. When he

was gone, Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- called.

* * * * *

* * * * *

The latter asked us to dinner to-morrow, to meet Dr. ----, who, poor

man, dares neither go to the play nor call upon us, so strict are the

good people here about the behaviour of their pastors and masters. By

the by, Essex called this morning to fetch away the Captain's

claret-jug: he asked my father for an order; adding, with some

hesitation, "It must be for the gallery, if you please, sir, for people

of colour are not allowed to go to the pit, or any other part of the

house." I believe I turned black myself, I was so indignant. Here's

aristocracy with a vengeance! ---- called with Forrest, the American

actor. Mr. Forrest has rather a fine face, I think. We dined at three:

after dinner, wrote journal, played on the piano, and frittered away my

time till half-past six. Went to the theatre: the house was very full,

and dreadfully hot. My father acted Romeo beautifully: I looked very

nice, and the people applauded my _gown_ abundantly. At the end of the

play I was half dead with heat and fatigue: came home and supped, lay

down on the floor in absolute meltiness away, and then came to bed.

_Friday, 21st._

Rose at eight. After breakfast went to rehearsal. The School for

Scandal; Sir Peter, I see, keeps his effects to himself; what a bore

this is, to be sure! Got out things for the theatre. While eating my

lunch, Mr. ---- and his cousin, a Mr. ---- (one of the cleverest lawyers

here), called.

* * * * *

* * * * *

* * * * *

They were talking of Mr. Keppel. By the by, of that gentleman; Mr.

Simpson sent me this morning, for my decision, a letter from Mr. Keppel,

soliciting another trial, and urging the hardness of his case, in being

condemned upon a part which he had had no time to study. My own opinion

of poor Mr. Keppel is, that no power on earth or in heaven can make him

act decently; however, of course, I did not object to his trying again;

he did not swamp me the first night, so I don't suppose he will the

fifth. We dined at five. Just before dinner, received a most delicious

bouquet, which gladdened my very heart with its sweet smell and lovely

colours: some of the flowers were strangers to me. After dinner, Colonel

---- called, and began pulling out heaps of newspapers, and telling us a

long story about Mr. Keppel, who, it seems, has been writing to the

papers, to convince them and the public that he is a good actor; at the

same time throwing out sundry hints, which seem aimed our way, of

injustice, oppression, hard usage, and the rest on't.

* * * * *

* * * * *

Mr. ---- called to offer to ride with me; when, however, the question of

a horse was canvassed, he knew of none, and Colonel ----'s whole

regiment of "beautiful ladies' horses" had also neither a local

habitation nor a name.

* * * * *

* * * * *

When they were gone, went to the theatre; the house was very good, the

play the School for Scandal. I played pretty fairly, and looked very

nice. The people were stupid to a degree, to be sure; poor things! it

was very hot. Indeed, I scarce understand how they should be amused with

the School for Scandal; for though the dramatic situations are so

exquisite, yet the wit is far above the generality of even our own

audiences, and the tone and manners altogether are so thoroughly

English, that I should think it must be for the most part

incomprehensible to the good people here. After the play, came home.

Colonel S---- supped with us, and renewed the subject of Mr. Keppel and

the theatre. My father happened to say, referring to a passage in that

worthy's letter to the public, "I shall certainly inquire of Mr. Keppel

why he has so used my name;" to which Colonel S---- replied, as usual,

"No, now let me advise, let me beg you, Mr. Kemble, just to remain

quiet, and leave all this to me." This was too much for mortal woman to

bear. I immediately said, "Not at all: it is my father's affair, if any

body's; and he alone has the right to demand any explanation, or make

any observation on the subject; and were I he, I certainly should do so,

and that forthwith." I could hold no longer.

* * * * *

* * * * *

Came to bed in tremendous dudgeon. The few _critiques_ that I have seen

upon our acting have been, upon the whole, laudatory. One was sent to me

from a paper called The Mirror, which pleased me very much; not because

the praise in it was excessive, and far beyond my deserts, but that it

was written with great taste and feeling, and was evidently not the

produce of a common press-hack. There appeared to me in all the others

the true provincial dread of praising too much, and being _led_ into

approbation by previous opinions; a sort of jealousy of critical

freedom, which, together with the established _nil admirari_ of the

press, seems to keep them in a constant dread of being thought

enthusiastic. They need not be afraid: enthusiasm may belong to such

analyses as Schlegel's or Channing's, but has nothing in common with the

paragraphs of a newspaper; the inditers of which, in my poor judgment,

seldom go beyond the very threshold of criticism, _i. e._ the discovery

of faults. I am infinitely amused at the extreme curiosity which appears

to me to be the besetting sin of the people here. A gentleman whom you

know (as for instance, in my case,) very slightly, will sit down by your

table during a morning visit, turn over every article upon it, look at

the cards of the various people who have called upon you, ask

half-a-dozen questions about each of them, as many about your own

private concerns; and all this, as though it were a matter of course

that you should answer him, which I feel greatly inclined occasionally

not to do.

_Saturday, 22d._

Rose at eight. After breakfast, dawdled about till near one o'clock: got

into a hackney coach[16] with D----, and returned all manner of cards.

* * * * *

* * * * *

* * * * *

Went into a shop to order a pair of shoes. The shopkeepers in this

place, with whom I have hitherto had to deal, are either condescendingly

familiar, or insolently indifferent in their manner. Your washer woman

sits down before you, while you are _standing_ speaking to her; and a

shop-boy bringing things for your inspection not only sits down, but

keeps his hat on in your drawing-room. The worthy man to whom I went for

my shoes was so amazingly ungracious, that at first I thought I would

go out of the shop; but recollecting that I should probably only go

farther and fare worse, I gulped, sat down, and was measured. All this

is bad: it has its origin in a vulgar misapprehension, which confounds

ill-breeding with independence, and leads people to fancy that they

elevate themselves above their condition by discharging its duties and

obligations discourteously.[17]

* * * * *

Came home: wrote journal, practised, dressed for dinner. At five, went

into our neighbour's: Dr. ----, the rector of Grace Church, was the only

stranger. I liked him extremely: he sat by me at dinner, and I thought

his conversation sufficiently clever, with an abundance of goodness, and

liberal benevolent feeling shining through it. We retired to our room,

where Mrs. ---- made me laugh extremely with sundry passages of her

American experiences. I was particularly amused with her account of

their stopping, after a long day's journey, at an inn somewhere, when

the hostess, who remained in the room the whole time, addressed her as

follows: "D'ye play?" pointing to an open piano-forte. Mrs. ---- replied

that she did so sometimes; whereupon the free-and-easy landlady ordered

candles, and added, "Come, sit down and give us a tune, then;" to which

courteous and becoming invitation Mrs. ---- replied by taking up her

candle, and walking out of the room. The pendant to this is Mr. ----'s

story. He sent a die of his crest to a manufacturer, to have it put upon

his gig harness. The man sent home the harness, when it was finished,

but without the die; after sending for which sundry times, Mr. ----

called to enquire after it himself, when the reply was:--

"Lord! why I didn't know you wanted it."

"I tell you, I wish to have it back."

"Oh, pooh! you can't want it much, now--do you?"

"I tell you, sir, I desire to have the die back immediately."

"Ah well, come now, what'll you take for it?"

"D'ye think I mean to sell my crest? why you might as well ask me to

sell my name."

"Why, you see, a good many folks have seen it, and want to have it on

their harness, as it's a pretty looking concern enough."

So much for their ideas of a crest. This though, by the by, happened

some years ago.

After the gentlemen joined us, my father made me sing to them, which I

did with rather a bad grace, as I don't think any body wished to hear me

but himself.

* * * * *

* * * * *

* * * * *

Dr. ---- is perfectly enchanting. They left us at about eleven. Came to

bed.

_Sunday, 23d._

Rose at eight. After breakfast, went to church with D----. There is no

such thing, I perceive, as a pew-opener; so, after standing sufficiently

long in the middle of the church, we established ourselves very

comfortably in a pew, where we remained unmolested. The day was most

lovely, and my eyes were constantly attracted to the church windows,

through which the magnificent willows of the burial-ground looked like

golden green fountains rising into the sky.

* * * * *

* * * * *

The singing in church was excellent, and Dr. ----'s sermon very good,

too: he wants sternness; but that is my particular fancy about a

clergyman, and by most people would be accounted no want. It was not

sacrament Sunday; D---- was disappointed; and I mistaken. Mr. ----

walked home with us. After church, wrote journal. ---- called, and sat

with us during dinner, telling us stories of the flogging of slaves, as

he himself had witnessed it in the south, that forced the colour into my

face, the tears into my eyes, and strained every muscle in my body with

positive rage and indignation: he made me perfectly sick with it. When

he was gone, my father went to Colonel ----'s. I played all through Mr.

----'s edition of Cinderella, and then wrote three long letters, which

kept me up till nearly one o'clock. Oh, bugs, fleas, flies, ants, and

musquitoes, great is the misery you inflict upon me! I sit slapping my

own face all day, and lie thumping my pillow all night: 'tis a perfect

nuisance to be devoured of creatures _before_ one's in the ground; it

isn't fair. Wrote to Mr. ----, to ask if he would ride with me on

Tuesday. I am dying to be on horseback again.

* * * * *

* * * * *

* * * * *

_Monday, 24th._

Rose at eight: went and took a bath. After breakfast, went to rehearsal:

Venice Preserved, with Mr. Keppel, who did not appear to me to know the

words even, and seemed perfectly bewildered at being asked to do the

common business of the piece. "Mercy on me! what will he do to-night?"

thought I. Came home and got things ready for the theatre. Received a

visit from poor Mr. ----, who has got the lumbago, as Sir Peter would

say, "on purpose," I believe, to prevent my riding out to-morrow. Dined

at three: after dinner, played and sang through Cinderella; wrote

journal: at six, went to the theatre. My gown was horribly ill-plaited,

and I looked like a blue bag. The house was very full, and they received

Mr. K---- with acclamations and shouts of applause. When I went on, I

was all but tumbling down at the sight of my Jaffier, who looked like

the apothecary in Romeo and Juliet, with the addition of some devilish

red slashes along his thighs and arms. The first scene passed well and

so: but, oh, the next, and the next, and the next to that! Whenever he

was not glued to my side (and that was seldom), he stood three yards

behind me; he did nothing but seize my hand, and grapple to it so hard,

that unless I had knocked him down (which I felt much inclined to try),

I could not disengage myself. In the senate scene, when I was entreating

for mercy, and _struggling_, as Otway has it, for my life, he was

prancing round the stage in every direction, flourishing his dagger in

the air: I wish to Heaven I had got up and run away: it would but have

been natural, and have served him extremely right. In the parting

scene,--oh what a scene it was!--instead of going away from me when he

said "farewell for ever," he stuck to my skirts, though in the same

breath that I adjured him, in the words of my part, not to leave me, I

added, aside, "Get away from me, oh _do_!" When I exclaimed, "Not one

kiss at parting," he kept embracing and kissing me like mad: and when I

ought to have been pursuing him, and calling after him, "Leave thy

dagger with me," he hung himself up against the wing, and remained

dangling there for five minutes. I was half crazy! and the good people

sat and swallowed it all: they deserved it, by my troth, they did. I

prompted him constantly; and once, after struggling in vain to free

myself from him, was obliged, in the middle of my part, to exclaim, "You

hurt me dreadfully, Mr. Keppel!" He clung to me, cramped me, crumpled

me,--dreadful! I never experienced any thing like this before, and made

up my mind that I never would again. I played of course like a wretch,

finished my part as well as I could, and, as soon as the play was over,

went to my father and Mr. Simpson, and declared to them both my

determination not to go upon the stage again, with that gentleman for a

hero. Three trials are as many as, in reason, any body can demand, and,

come what come may, _I_ will not be subjected to this sort of experiment

again. At the end of the play, the clever New Yorkians actually called

for Mr. Keppel! and this most worthless clapping of hands, most

worthlessly bestowed upon such a worthless object, is what, by the

nature of my craft, I am bound to care for; I spit at it from the bottom

of my soul! Talking of applause, the man who acted Bedamar to-night

thought fit to be two hours dragging me off the stage; in consequence of

which I had to scream, "Jaffier, Jaffier," till I thought I should have

broken a blood-vessel. On my remonstrating with him upon this, he said,

"Well, you are rewarded, listen:" the people were clapping and shouting

vehemently: this is the whole history of acting and actors. We came home

tired, and thoroughly disgusted, and found no supper. The cooks, who do

not live in the house, but come and do their work, and depart home

whenever it suits their convenience, had not thought proper to stay to

prepare any supper for us: so we had to wait for the readiest things

that could be procured out of doors for us--this was pleasant[18]--very!

At last appeared a cold boiled fowl, and some monstrous oysters, that

looked for all the world like an antediluvian race of oysters, "for in

those days there were giants." Six mouthfuls each: they were

well-flavoured; but their size displeased my eye, and I swallowed but

one, and came to bed.

_Friday, 28th._

A letter from England, the first from dear ----. D---- brought it me

while I was dressing, and oh, how welcome, how welcome it was!

* * * * *

After breakfast went to rehearsal: Much Ado about Nothing. Came home,

wrote journal, put out things for the theatre, dined at three. After

dinner, ---- called.

* * * * *

* * * * *

Mr. ---- called, and sat with us till six o'clock.

* * * * *

* * * * *

I constantly sit thunderstruck at the amazing number of unceremonious

questions which people here think fit to ask one, and, moreover, expect

one to answer. Went to the theatre; the house was not good. The Italians

were expected to sing for the first time; they did not, however, but in

the mean time thinned our house.

I would give the world to see Mr. ---- directing the public taste, by an

oeillade, and leading the public approbation, by a gracious tapping of

his supreme hand upon his ineffable snuff-box; he reminds me of high

life below stairs. The play went off very well; I played well, and my

dresses looked beautiful; my father acted to perfection. I never saw any

thing so gallant, gay, so like a gentlemen, so full of brilliant,

buoyant, refined spirit; he looked admirably, too. Mr. ---- was behind

the scenes; speaking to me of my father's appearance in Pierre, he said

he reminded him of Lord ----. I could not forbear asking him how long he

had been away from England? he replied, four years. Truly, four years

will furnish him matter of astonishment when he returns. Swallow Street

is grown into a line of palaces; the Strand is a broad magnificent

avenue, where all the wealth of the world seems gathered together; and

Lord ----, the "observed of all observers," is become a red-faced fat

old man. "Och, Time! can't ye be aisy now!"

_Sunday, 30th._

Rose late, did not go to church; sat writing letters all the morning.

Mr. ---- and Mr. ---- called. What a character that Mr. ---- is! Colonel

---- called, and wanted to take my father out; but we were all inditing

espistles to go to-morrow by the dear old Pacific. At three o'clock,

went to church with Mrs. ---- and Mr. ----. I like Dr. ---- most

extremely. His mild, benevolent, Christian view of the duties and

blessings of life is very delightful; and the sound practical doctrine

he preaches "good for edification."

* * * * *

It poured with rain, but they sent a coach for us from the inn; came

home, dressed for dinner. D---- and I dined _tête-à-tête_. After dinner,

sat writing letters for Mr. ----'s bag till ten o'clock: came to my own

room, undressed, and began a volume to dear ----.

* * * * *

* * * * *

I did not get to bed till three o'clock: in spite of all which I am as

fat as an overstuffed pincushion.

* * * * *

* * * * *