We were not yet free of the mountains, for numerous spurs of the mighty
Andes run eastward, between which the many streams proceeding from their
snow-capped heights make their way towards the Amazon. Once more we
were compelled to ascend a steep height, and then to proceed along the
ridge for a considerable distance; then again we descended, to find at
the bottom a roaring torrent. This had to be crossed.
The huge trunk of a tree had been placed by the natives over the deeper
part, resting on the rocks on either side. The water hissed and bubbled
round it, threatening every instant to carry it away. Isoro, however,
urged us to cross without delay. He observed signs in the west, among
the mountains, of a coming storm, he said, and should it break before we
were safe on the other side, we should be prevented from crossing
altogether. Still, as we looked at the frail bridge, John and I were
very unwilling to expose Ellen to the risk she must run. At length Don
Jose ordered the Indians to form a long rope of sipos, and to stretch it
across the stream, that it might assist to steady the bearers on their
passage. This caused some delay. "Hasten! hasten!" cried Isoro. "I
hear a sound which tells me that the waters are coming down!"
Don Jose on this led the way. Arthur kept close to him. I followed
with True in my arms, for I had taken him up for fear of his being
carried away by the current. Ellen's bearer same next. John walked
close behind her, to render her assistance should it be required. With
one hand I grasped the long sipo, with the other I kept tight hold of
True. The rest had the advantage of being able to steady themselves
with their poles. Domingos assisted Maria. The water, even before we
reached the trunk, came roaring and hissing down round our legs, and I
had some difficulty in stemming the current. I was thankful when our
leader reached the trunk, and began his passage over it. I found it,
however, very slippery with the spray which broke over it. I dared not
look back to see how it fared with Ellen. I heard her voice, however,
as she cried out, "Do not be afraid, Harry; my bearer steps firmly, and
I am looking up at the blue sky and the waving tops of the tall trees; I
do not feel any alarm." Still there was a wide extent of bubbling water
to be crossed beyond the end of the slippery trunk, and I could hear the
loud roar of the waters which came down from the mountains through the
ravine. I saw Don Jose hastening on, and more than once he turned and
beckoned us to proceed more rapidly. The end of the bridge was reached.
Arthur hesitated to leap into the boiling water. Don Jose turned round
and seized his hand and led him on. I followed. It seemed that every
instant the depth of the water was increasing. I trembled for Ellen's
safety, and yet could not venture to look back to ascertain how it was
faring with her. I thought too of John, Maria, Domingos, and our
Indians. The danger for those who came last would be greatly increased.
Had it not been for the sipo, I could scarcely have kept my footing.
Now I was wading up to my middle, now climbing over a rock worn smooth
by the never-resting waters. The water was here somewhat shallower. I
looked round. Ellen's bearer was following with firm steps, and was
close behind me. "On! on!" cried John. Our leader was already near the
edge, and I hoped we should soon be in safety, when I heard Ellen utter
a shriek of terror. I sprang on to the bank. Her bearer followed. She
had not been alarmed on her own account; but now looking across the
stream, I saw the bearers following closely on each other, pressing
along the bridge. From above the water, in a vast foaming volume, was
coming rushing down, roaring loudly. John turned round, and taking
Maria's hand, assisted her up the bank. Domingos clambered after her.
Our peons came close together behind. One man was still on the bridge,
when the torrent, striking it with fearful force, lifted it off the
rock, and away it went wheeling downwards. The peon kept his footing
for an instant, then, as it began to turn over, he sprang off it towards
the shore; but unable to disengage himself from his burden, he was borne
downwards amid the tossing waters. The Indians ran down the bank to try
and render him assistance. John and I followed, with Don Jose, who
seemed unusually agitated. Now we saw the man clutching hold of a rock;
soon again he was torn off, and went floating downwards. Still he
struggled on bravely, making his way towards the shore. I expected
every moment to see him give up the unequal contest, for the mighty
waters seemed to have him in their grasp. Fortunately the bundle he
carried was large, and though heavy out of the water, was light in it,
and instead of sinking, assisted to float him.
John and I continued to make our way along the banks with the rest. We
had got some distance down, when we saw what appeared to be an eddy or
backwater in the river. Below it the stream rushed on with the same
impetuosity as before. I called to John. "I think we may save him," I
said; and signed to the Indians to cut some long sipos which hung down
from the branches above us. Several flexible ones were speedily cut and
fastened together. Both John and I were good swimmers. He secured one
to his waist, as did I, signing to the Indians to hold the other ends.
Then we dashed into the stream, swimming out towards the struggling
Indian. In another moment he would have been carried by us. I reached
him just as I was at the extreme end of the sipo. John seized his arm
directly afterwards, and together we towed him towards the bank, calling
to the Indians to haul the sipo gently in. Soon reaching the bank, we
dragged up our nearly drowned companion. Not till then did we discover
that he was Isoro, who, it appeared, had taken the load of a sick bearer
unable to carry it.
Isoro, as soon as he had recovered sufficiently to speak, thanked us
warmly for preserving his life. Don Jose, who had come up, also added
his thanks. "I value him much," he observed, "and should have grieved
deeply had he lost his life."
We had little time for talking, however, for we had to hurry back to
where we had left our companions, as the storm which had been brewing in
the mountains now threatened to break over our heads. Our party,
therefore, piling up their loads, made haste to erect some sheds similar
to those we had already several times built. A quantity of the
_sindicaspi_, or "wood that burns," was speedily cut, and fires were
lighted, at which we dried our drenched clothes. Scarcely had our
preparations been made, when the threatening storm burst over us, the
wind howling and whistling through the trees, which waved to and fro,
making a loud rustling sound; while every now and then we could hear the
crashing noise of some patriarch of the forest, as it sank beneath the
blast. The rain came in torrents, and the river, surging and swelling,
rapidly increased its breadth. We had indeed reason to be thankful that
we had not delayed our crossing a moment longer. Our fires were soon
put out, and water came rushing down on either side of us through the
forest. We, however, had chosen a slightly elevated spot for our camp,
which, though surrounded by water, had hitherto escaped destruction.
The rain continuing to pour down in a perfect deluge, compelled us to
remain in our camp. So secure, however, had the roofs been made, that
we kept dry inside. Occasionally John, Arthur, and I ran into Ellen's
hut to pay her a visit. We found her and Maria sitting very composedly,
employing themselves with their work, which they produced from one of
the bundles they had unpacked. Don Jose remained in his hut, attended
by Isoro. He was much more out of spirits than we had yet seen him.
"My young friends," he said, "I must soon bid you farewell. I had
resolved to accompany you till I could see you embarked on the river.
We shall reach it, I hope, in three or four days at furthest, but I
cannot be longer absent from my people in these troubled times. I hope
that you will soon overtake your father and family, who, from the
accounts I have received, intend to wait for you at the mouth of the
river, where it joins the Amazon. Though I must return, Isoro has
expressed a wish to accompany you. You will find his assistance of
value, as he has been among the wild tribes you will encounter on your
passage, and knows their habits and customs. They are very different
from the people you have hitherto met, and may give you much annoyance,
unless cautiously dealt with."
We were very sorry to hear of Don Jose's intention of leaving us, as we
had hoped that he intended to accompany us till we could overtake our
father, though we were greatly obliged to him for his proposal of
allowing Isoro to remain with us.
Once more, the clouds clearing away, we proceeded on our journey. We
made, however, but slow progress, as in many places the sipos which had
overgrown the path had to be cut way to allow of our passage through the
forest. I can scarcely attempt to convey in words an idea of the dense
mass of foliage amid which we had to force our way. Vast roots like
huge snakes ran out over the ground in all directions, their upper parts
forming huge buttresses to the giant stems. Then large ferns shot
upwards, while a thick network of vines hung festooned in every possible
form above our heads, many hanging down straight to the ground, while
numberless curious air-plants hung suspended from the branches. Now and
then gaily-plumaged birds were seen flitting amid the thick shade; but
we were surprised at the paucity of animal life which existed. Not a
quadruped was to be seen. A few monkeys and parrots were occasionally
heard, though rarely caught sight of. We had numerous streams to cross;
often, indeed, the same stream to cross several times. Frequently the
passage was almost as dangerous as that I have described. Sometimes we
stopped at the huts of the natives, where we were as usual well
received. They were built of bamboo, fastened together with lianas or
sipos, the roofs covered with large palm-leaves. They willingly
supplied us with such provisions as they possessed. The chief article
was _yuca_ flour, with which we made cakes. It is the beet-like root of
a small tree about ten feet high. When not hunting, the men appeared to
spend their time in idleness. The women, however, were occasionally
employed in manufacturing a thread called _pita_ from the leaves of the
aloe, which they carry to Quito for sale. Occasionally the men
collected vanilla. It is a graceful climber, belonging to the orchid
family. The stalk, the thickness of a finger, bears at each joint a
lanceolate and ribbed leaf a foot long and three inches broad. It has
large star-like white flowers, intermixed with stripes of red and
yellow, which fill the forest with delicious odours. They are succeeded
by long slender pods, containing numerous seeds imbedded in a thick oily
balsamic pulp. The seeds, which are highly esteemed, are used for
flavouring chocolate and other purposes. Monkeys are very fond of them,
and pick all they find, so that few are left on the wild plants for
man's use. Vanilla is, however, cultivated in Mexico and other parts of
the world. The Indians also collected copal. It is a gum which exudes
from a lofty leguminous tree, having a bark like that of the oak.
However, I must hurry on with an account of our journey. When we met
with no habitations on our way, we were compelled to build sheds in the
driest and most open spots we could find. At length, through an arched
opening in the forest, the bright sheen of water caught our eyes, and
hurrying on, we found ourselves standing on the bank of a stream, which
opened up to us a watery highway to the Atlantic.
Still, we were well aware that we had many dangers to encounter. For
many hundred leagues we could not hope to meet with Europeans, and
although the natives among whom we had hitherto travelled had been
friendly, we knew that numerous tribes existed along the banks of the
Amazon or its tributaries, who might prove hostile to strangers. Our
chief anxiety, however, was about our father and mother. When we might
once more meet, we could not tell. Still we felt sure that they would
not willingly proceed till we had overtaken them.
We had arrived at a part of the river at a distance from any native
village. We had therefore to depend on ourselves for the means of
making our intended voyage. We were prepared, however, to build canoes
of sufficient size for the accommodation of our reduced party.
Accordingly we set to work to erect huts of a more substantial character
than those we had hitherto built, in which we might live in some degree
of comfort till the work was accomplished. With the assistance of our
bearers, in a few hours we had a good-sized hut of bamboos put up, and
strongly thatched with palm-leaves. One portion was walled in with a
division forming two apartments. The larger was devoted to the
accommodation of Ellen and her sable attendant. In the other, our goods
were stored; while the rest of us slung our hammocks in a large open
verandah, which formed, indeed, the greater part of the building. It
was completed before nightfall. In front, between us and the river, a
large fire was made up, which, fed by a peculiar kind of wood growing
near, kept alight for many hours without being replenished.
We were seated at our evening meal, when we heard footsteps rapidly
approaching, and an Indian appeared and saluted Don Jose. He was a
stranger, and had evidently been travelling rapidly. Presenting a
packet, he sank down on the ground with fatigue. A cup of _guayusa_ tea
soon revived him. Don Jose meantime opened his packet, and hastily read
the contents.
"My young friends," he said, "I regret that I must immediately bid you
farewell. I cannot longer be absent from my people. I know not what
may occur; but if their leaders are away, they will have no hope of
obtaining their freedom. Your father, however, was right to escape from
the country. I am thankful to say that I can give you tidings of him.
He has reached the mouth of the Napo in safety, and is there encamped,
awaiting your arrival. Here, John, is a missive your father desires me
to deliver to you."
Our friend handed my brother a note written hurriedly in pencil. It ran
thus: "The messenger is about to leave, so I must be brief. We are all
well, and purpose waiting your arrival on this healthy spot, near the
mouth of the Napo. You will without difficulty find it, though we shall
be on the watch for all canoes coming down the stream. Pass two rivers
on your left hand, then a high bluff of red clay interspersed with
stripes of orange, yellow, grey, and white. Proceed another league,
till you pass, on a low point, a grove of bamboos. Rounding it, you
will find a clear spot on a low hill overlooking the stream. It is
there I have fixed our temporary abode."
"Oh, surely there will be no difficulty in finding them!" exclaimed
Ellen. "I wish that the canoes were ready--or could we not set off by
land?"
"I fear that you would have to encounter many difficulties," observed
Don Jose, "if you were to make the attempt. I must counsel patience,
the most difficult of all virtues. I wish that I could accompany you--
or, at all events, remain till the canoes are ready; but you will find
Isoro a skilful builder, and I will direct him to procure the assistance
of some of the natives of this region, who will afterwards act as your
crew, and navigate your canoes as far as they can venture down the
river. After that, Isoro will return with them, as I am afraid that I
could not induce him to remain away longer from me, though I would
gladly let him accompany you if he would. Still I hope that you will
have no great difficulty in accomplishing the short remainder of your
voyage till you find your father and the rest of your family."
John and I thanked Don Jose again and again for the aid he had afforded
us, and the sacrifices he had made on our account.
"Do not speak of them, my young friends," he replied. "I owe much to
your father; and we are united by ties of which he, perhaps, will some
day tell you."
We wished that our friend would explain himself more clearly, but he
evidently did not intend to do so, and we therefore could not attempt to
press the point. We sat up talking for some time before we turned into
our hammocks.
Our hut was romantically situated. Before us flowed the rapid river; on
either side rose the thick forest of palms and other trees, round the
stems of which circled many a creeper, hanging in festoons from the
branches overhead. In the far distance towered the outer range of those
lofty mountains we were leaving, perhaps for ever; while round us were
scattered the temporary wigwams which our attendants had put up for
themselves. The never-ceasing murmur of the waters tended to lull us to
sleep in spite of the strange sounds which ever and anon came from the
forest, caused by tree-toads and crickets; while occasionally owls,
goat-suckers, and frogs joined in the concert with their hooting,
wailing, and hoarse croaks. My faithful dog True had taken up his usual
place at night below my hammock. Suddenly I was awaked by hearing him
utter a loud bark; and looking down, I saw by the fire, which was still
burning brightly, a huge alligator poking his snout into the verandah,
having evidently climbed up the bank with the intention of making a meal
off the dog, or, perhaps, off one of the sleeping natives. True stood
bravely at bay, barking furiously, and yet refusing to retreat. Leaping
from my hammock, I seized a log, and dashed it in the huge saurian's
face. All the party were speedily on foot. Isoro and Domingos came
rushing forward with their long poles to attack the monster; while John,
seizing his gun, fired at its head: The ball, however, glanced off its
scaly coat. The reptile, finding itself disappointed of its expected
feast, and that the odds were against it, retreated, and finally fell
over with a loud plash into the stream. The incident warned us of the
midnight visitors we might expect, and of the necessity of keeping a
watch when sleeping near the river's bank. The fire was made up afresh.
We were all soon again asleep, with the exception of one of the men,
who was directed by Don Jose to keep watch for the remainder of the
night.
The next morning our kind friend bade us farewell, and, accompanied by
the bearers, took his way through the forest to the Andes. We saw him
go with great regret. We remembered the dangers he would have to
encounter, and we felt how probable it was that we should never again
see him. Our party now consisted of Ellen, Maria, John, Arthur and I,
Domingos and Isoro. John and I had our rifles; and Domingos a brace of
long horse-pistols, which he took from his holsters when the mules were
sent back; with a fair supply of ammunition. We had axes, and a few
other tools for building our canoe; a stock of provisions, which had
been carefully husbanded; and some bales of cotton and other articles
with which to repay the natives for their services, or to purchase food.
Isoro was armed with a long bow and spear, and Arthur was anxious to
provide himself with similar weapons.
As soon as Don Jose had gone, Isoro set out according to his directions
to find some natives. We were still, it will be remembered, within
Peruvian territory; and although but slight communication was kept up
with the natives of the scattered villages, yet the Spaniards had for
some years past made their power felt, as the Incas had done in former
ages, even in these remote districts. Isoro said he had therefore no
fear of being ill-treated by any of the natives he might encounter.
As soon as breakfast was over, while John and Domingos remained at the
hut, assisting Ellen and Maria to overhaul and re-arrange our goods,
Arthur and I strolled out to try and shoot some birds. We had not gone
far when we heard, at a little distance off, some loud, shrill, yelping
cries. I was sure they were produced by birds, yet Arthur could
scarcely believe it. The noises came, it seemed, from above our heads.
Looking up, we at length caught sight of several large birds, perched on
the higher branches above us, with enormous bills. We approached
cautiously, hiding ourselves underneath some wide palm-leaves, between
which we could observe the noisy assemblage. The birds seemed to be
shouting out "To-o-cano, to-o-cano," and it is on this account that the
Indians give them the name from which we derive that of toucans. One
was perched above the rest, and he kept bending his neck downwards, and
looking about in the most knowing way, as if to ascertain what sort of
creatures we could be. The rest seemed to be employing themselves in
picking some fruit, every now and then throwing up their huge beaks as
if to let it slip down their throats. As we were anxious to procure
some fresh food for dinner, I had been getting my gun ready as quietly
as possible, and having selected the bird nearest to me, I raised it to
my shoulder and fired. Down came the bird, fluttering among the
branches, and we ran forward to secure our prize. On examining it, we
found that its feet were like those of a parrot. It was of a black
colour, with a gloss of green; about fifteen inches in length, with a
long tail and short wings; the feathers at the bottom of the back being
of a sulphur hue. The cheeks, throat, and fore part of the breast, were
of the same tint, while across the lower part of the breast was a broad
crimson bar; the under part being also crimson. The remainder of the
flock having flown away, I was unable to obtain another shot. These
birds we afterwards saw in great numbers. Their large beaks give them
an awkward appearance when flying, yet when climbing about the trees
they are evidently of great assistance, as also in picking fruit, or
catching the insects they find among the bark.
We went some distance before I could get another shot. I then killed a
green parrot, and soon after another. Arthur could scarcely believe
that we should find them fit for eating. I was on the point of taking
aim at a monkey which came peering out at us among the boughs, when he
drew back my arm.
"You surely will not kill that creature!" he exclaimed. "I could never
bring myself to eat it, if you do; and I am sure your sister would not."
I told him that monkeys form the principal food of many of the tribes in
the country.
"Oh, but then they are no better than cannibals," he answered.
"Wait a little till we are pressed for want of food," I said. "Remember
our stock of provisions is but small, and if we were to be
over-particular, we should starve." The monkey, however, by his
intervention escaped.
We went on for some time, gradually entering a denser part of the forest
than we had yet reached. Sipos hung down from every bough, forming a
curious tracery of living cordage above our heads, and more completely
uniting the tall trees than even the masts of a ship are by the rigging,
so that an active midshipman, or a still more agile monkey--I hope the
former will pardon me for mentioning them together--could have no
difficulty in progressing high up from the ground for miles together
through the forest. Strange air-plants swung suspended from the
branches, some like the crowns of huge pine-apples, others like parasols
with fringes, or Chinese umbrellas--indeed, of all shapes and hues;
while climbing plants of the most diverse and ornamental foliage
possible wound their way upwards, and then formed graceful and elegant
festoons, yet further to adorn this mighty sylvan palace. Such a scene,
though often witnessed, seemed fresh and beautiful as at first. As I
wished to get another shot or two, we crept slowly on, concealing
ourselves as much as possible, lest any birds perched on the boughs
might see us and fly away. There was little difficulty in doing so
amongst the huge fern and palm-like foliage which surrounded us. In a
short time we heard ahead of us a strange chattering and rustling in the
trees, and moving cautiously on, we caught sight of a number of dark
objects moving about at a rapid rate among the sipos. Stealing
cautiously forward, we discovered them to be monkeys at their gambols;
and curious gambols they were too. They had white faces, with black
coats and thin bodies and limbs, and still longer tails, which kept
whisking and twirling and whirling about in the most extraordinary
style. Not for a moment were these tails of theirs at rest, except when
they had hold of branches to allow their other limbs more freedom. I
did not suppose that such muscular power could have existed in an
animal's tail. They seemed to be playing each other all sorts of
comical tricks. Now one would catch hold of a horizontal sipo, and
swing vehemently backwards and forwards; now two or three would scramble
up a perpendicular one, and a fourth would catch hold of the tail of the
last and hang by it, whisking about his own tail meantime till it had
found a branch of liana, when he would let go, and bring himself up
again by that wonderful member of his, and skip away to a distance from
his playmate, who might attempt to retaliate. If one happened for an
instant to be sitting quietly on a sipo, or gently winging backwards and
forwards, another was sure to come behind him and pull his tail, or give
him a twitch on the ear, and then throw himself off the sipo out of the
other's reach, holding on, however, firmly enough by his long appendage.
One big fellow came creeping up thus behind another, and gave him a sly
pinch on the neck. So funny was the face which the latter made as he
turned round and lifted up his paw to give the other a box on the ear,
that Arthur and I burst into fits of laughter. This startled the whole
flock, who peered about them, skipping here and there, chattering to
each other, as if to inquire the cause of the strange sounds which had
reached their ears. At length one, bolder than the rest, creeping near,
caught sight of us, when back he went to communicate the intelligence to
his companions. A hurried consultation was evidently held by them, and
then more came to look down at us, keeping wisely in the upper branches.
We tried to be silent; but so extraordinary were the grimaces they made
with their funny little white physiognomies, that we again burst into
shouts of laughter, in which True joining with a loud bark, off
scampered the monkeys, whisking their long tails, along the sipos and
branches, till they were hid from sight, although we could still hear
their chattering in the distance. I could not have had the heart to
fire at such frolicsome creatures, even had we been more pressed for
food than was the case.
"I wish that we could get one of them to tame," exclaimed Arthur. "It
would make a delightful pet for your sister, and a capital playmate for
True. They would become great friends, depend on it. He sadly wants a
companion of his own amount of intellect, poor fellow."
"I doubt as to their having any intellect, and I don't think True would
consider himself complimented by having them compared to him," I
answered, laughing, though a little piqued that the sense of my
favourite should be rated on an equality with that of a monkey. We
discussed the matter as we went along. I was compelled to acknowledge
at last that though True had sense, he might not even have reason, only
instinct verging on it strongly developed.
"And what are those monkeys?" asked Arthur, who had not quite agreed
with me, and wished to change the subject.
"I have no doubt that they are what the French call `spider monkeys,'" I
answered. "I found a description of them in my book, under the title of
Ateles, or Coaita. The white-faced species is the _Ateles marginatus_.
There are several species very similar in their appearance and habits."