We had been travelling on for many days, yet had made but slow progress.
This was not surprising, considering that we had to climb up steep
mountains and to descend again into deep valleys, to cross rapid streams
and wade through morasses, again to mount upwards and wind round and
round numberless rugged heights, with perpendicular precipices, now on
one side, now on the other, and gulfs below so profound that often our
eyes, when we unwisely made the attempt, could scarcely fathom them.
Still almost interminable ranges of mountains appeared to the east. As
we looked back, we could see the lofty heights of Pichincha, Corazon,
Ruminagui, Cotopaxi, Antisana, and many others.
We had a mountain before us. Our patient mules slowly climbed up it.
The summit reached, the ridge was so narrow that parts of the same rocks
might have been hurled, the one down into the valley towards the setting
sun, the other in the direction of the Atlantic. We there stood fifteen
thousand feet at least above the ocean, our animals panting with the
exertion, and we ourselves, though inured to the air of the mountains,
breathing with difficulty. Still before us there was a scene of wild
grandeur,--mountain rising beyond mountain, with deep valleys
intervening, their bottoms and sides clothed with a dense unbroken mass
of foliage.
"I fear beyond this we shall find no pathway for our mules," observed
Don Jose, as we were descending the height; "but we will endeavour to
procure bearers for the luggage, and will, in the meantime, encamp in
some sheltered spot, and try and ascertain in which direction my friend,
your father, and his party have gone."
We were nearly an hour descending, our mules carefully picking their way
among the rocks and lofty trees, and along the edges of yawning chasms,
which threatened to swallow us up. Sometimes we passed through wooded
regions, where the giant trees, falling from age, remained suspended in
the network of sipos or wild vines, which hung from the branches of
their neighbours. Now we had to make our way round the trunks, now to
pass beneath them. As I looked up, I could not help dreading that the
cordage which held them might give way, and allow them to fall at that
instant and crush us. At last we reached a level spot or terrace on the
mountain-side, but still the bottom of the valley seemed far down below
us.
"We will encamp here," said our friend, "and remain till we can
ascertain the direction we must pursue to come up with our friends. We
are here above the damp and close air of the valley. From yonder
torrent we can obtain the water we require," (he pointed to a cascade
which came rushing and foaming down, at a little distance, through a
cleft in the mountain), "while the forest around will afford an ample
supply of provision. We are at such a distance from the usual track,
that we shall not, I hope, be discovered, should any of our enemies
venture in this direction."
John at once agreed to our friend's proposal.
"Our mules," continued Don Jose, "are of no further use, for it would be
almost impossible for them to make their way amid the tangled forest
through which we must pass. We will therefore send them back to a
solitary rancho or farm, the proprietor of which is my friend, where
they will remain in safety till better times, when they can be forwarded
to their owners."
This plan being agreed on, the animals were unloaded, and our native
attendants set to work to build huts, which might afford us sufficient
shelter for the night. We all helped; but we found that they were so
much more expert, that they had erected three huts while we had not
finished one. Long stakes were first cut down. Two of them were driven
into the ground and joined at their top, and about twelve feet beyond
them, other two were driven in, and connected by a long pole. Against
this a number of stakes were arranged to serve as rafters. Meantime a
quantity of large palm-leaves had been procured, which were attached to
the rafters by thin sipos or vines, beginning at the bottom, so that
they overlapped each other in the fashion of tiles. They were so neatly
and securely fastened, that it was evident the heaviest shower would not
penetrate them. In a short time we had seven or eight of these huts up,
sufficient to accommodate the whole of the party. The natives then
descending into the forest, brought back a quantity of wood, which they
had cut from a tree which they called _sindicaspi_, which means the
"wood that burns." We found it answer its character; for though it was
perfectly green, and just brought out of the damp forest, no sooner was
fire put to it than it blazed up as if it had been long dried in the
sun.
We were still at a considerable elevation, where there was but little of
animal life. Even here, however, beautiful humming-birds flew among the
bushes. They seemed very like the hill-stars we had seen at
Chimborazo--wonderful little feathered gems; but they flew so rapidly
about that it was difficult to distinguish their appearance. Now a
gleam of one bright colour caught the eye, now another. Now, as they
passed, all their hues were blended into one.
"I should so like to have some of those beautiful little creatures as
pets," said Ellen. "I wonder if they could be tamed!"
"No doubt about it," said Don Jose. "The difficulty is to catch them
first. But, small as they are, they are in no degree timid; and if you
could take some of them young, you would find that they would willingly
feed off your hand; but, bold and brave, they love freedom, and will not
consent to live in captivity. Perhaps Isoro may catch some for you. He
knows all the birds and beasts of this region, and trees and herbs, as,
at one time, did all the people of our race. The study of God's works
is a truly noble one, and such the enlightened Incas considered it; and
therefore it was the especial study of young chiefs in bygone days.
But, alas! in these times of our degeneracy, in that, as in many other
points, we are grievously deficient compared to our ancestors."
"Oh, thank you," said Ellen. "I shall indeed be obliged to Isoro if he
can show me how to tame some of these beautiful little birds."
"I would rather have one of those fellows I see perched on yonder
pinnacle," observed Arthur, pointing to a rock at some distance, whence
a huge condor, with outspread wings, was about to take flight. "What a
grand thing it would be to get on his back, and make him fly with one
over the mountain-tops. He looks big and strong enough to do it."
"I am afraid that, with all his strength, he would find it a hard matter
to lift a heavy youth like you from the ground," observed Don Jose.
"Yet even a condor can be tamed, and if he is well fed, becomes
satisfied with his lot. Large as he is, he is a mean creature, and a
coward."
While Don Jose was speaking, the condor came flying by. Not a movement
of his wings was perceptible. We hallooed and clapped our hands.
"He seems not to hear our voices," I observed.
"He is too far off for that," said our companion. "Though we see him
clearly, he is at a greater distance than you suppose. In this pure
atmosphere, objects appear much nearer than they really are; indeed,
even with long practice, it is difficult to ascertain distances by the
eye alone. See there, on yonder slope! It would take an active man an
hour or more to reach the height over which these vicunas are bounding,
and yet they seem almost within reach of our rifles."
He pointed to a shoulder of the mountain which projected some distance
into the valley, over which several animals were making their way,
scrambling up rocks which I should have thought the most agile deer
could scarcely have attempted to scale.
Isoro had received a hint from his master; and after being absent from
the camp for some time, returned with a beautiful little live bird,
which he presented, greatly to her delight, to Ellen. Though its
bright, sharp specks of eyes were glancing about in every direction, it
remained quietly in her hand, without attempting to escape. The greater
portion of its body was light green, bronzed on the side of the neck and
face, and the lower part of the back was of a deep crimson red. The
wings were purple-brown, and the throat metallic green; but the tail was
its most remarkable feature. That was very long, brown at the base, and
the greater part of its length of the brightest fiery red, tipped with a
velvety black band.
"Why, its tail is a perfect comet," exclaimed Ellen, who had been for
some time admiring it.
She had given it the name by which it is chiefly known--the Sappho
comet, or bar-tailed humming-bird. It is a migratory bird, seldom,
however, found so far north. It is a native of Bolivia, where it is
found in gardens, and near the abodes of men, of whom it seems to have
no fear. In the winter it flies off to the warm regions of eastern
Peru, so Isoro told us.
"I am afraid that it will not live in captivity," he remarked. "Shall I
kill it for you, senora?"
"Oh no! no!" exclaimed Ellen. "On no account. If I cannot make a pet
of it, I would not keep it even as an unwilling captive. Pray, let it
go at once."
Isoro let the bird perch on his finger. It looked about for an instant,
and then expanding its glossy wings, off it flew, its long tail gleaming
like a flash of lightning in the air, and was in an instant lost to
sight. Isoro had, I believe, caught the little creature by the bill,
with a sort of bird-lime, placed in the lower part of a flower, where it
was held captive long enough to enable him to seize it.
We did not fail to keep up a large fire in the centre of our camp during
the night, lest any prowling puma might venture to pay us a visit. The
warmth, also, which it afforded in that keen mountain air was grateful.
After Ellen and Maria had retired to their hut, which had been made as
comfortable for them as circumstances would allow, we sat up discussing
our plans. I found that Don Jose and John had become anxious at not
finding our father. Our friend had sent out several Indians in
different directions to search for him, with orders to come back to the
spot where we were now encamped. I was surprised to find the influence
he possessed among all the natives we had met.
As soon as we had encamped, Isoro and two other Indians set off to
forage in the neighbourhood, as well as to obtain information. They
came back late in the evening, driving before them three hogs, which
they had purchased at a native hut some distance off. A pen was soon
built, in which to confine the animals: one of them was destined to be
turned into pork the following morning. The mules had already been sent
away, and True and the pigs were the only four-footed animals in the
camp.
Our whole party had been for some time asleep, when I was aroused by a
horrible squeaking, followed by a loud bark from True, who was sleeping
under my hammock. The squeaks and a few spasmodic grunts which
succeeded them soon ceased. The voices of my companions outside the hut
showed me that they were on the alert; and knowing that True would
attack our visitor, whether puma or jaguar, I tied him to one of the
posts of the hut before I went out--a proceeding of which he did not at
all approve.
"Cuguacuara! cuguacuara!" I heard the Indians exclaiming.
"A puma has carried off one of the hogs," said John, who appeared with
his gun ready for action.
"Where has it gone?" I asked.
"That is what we are going to ascertain," he answered.
We set out with Don Jose, Isoro, and several of the Indians, the latter
armed only with their spears. There was a bright moon, so we had no
great difficulty in seeing our way, though in that region of precipices
it was necessary to be cautious. Isoro and the Indians led the way,
tracing the puma by the blood which their keen sight discovered on the
ground. We had not gone far when they stopped and signified that the
beast was near. Turning a point of rock, we saw before us, in a hollow
on the side of the mountain--a shallow cavern overgrown with shrubs,
into which the moon shone brightly--not only one, but two huge pumas,
the nearest with its paws on the hog it had just stolen. We had formed
our camp close to their lair. The savage brutes, thus brought to bay,
and unable to escape, snarled fiercely at us. No animal is more hated
by the Indians than the puma, on account of the depredations it commits
on their flocks and herds. They had little chance, therefore, of being
allowed to escape. I expected, moreover, at any moment to see them
spring at us.
"Do you take the nearest," said Don Jose, calmly, to John; "I will take
the other. Reserve your fire, Harry, in case one of them should
spring."
He and John fired. The nearest puma gave a tremendous spring forward.
I had my weapon ready, and drew the trigger. The bullet struck him,
and, first rising in the air, he fell backwards, and lay without moving.
The Indians rushed forward, and, with shouts of triumph, soon knocked
out any sparks of life which remained in the animals. They then,
fastening some sipos round the bodies, dragged them and the hog to the
camp.
I had just time to measure one of them, before they were skinned and cut
up. It had a body four feet in length; and a tail two and a half feet
long, black at the tip, but without the characteristic tuft of the lion.
Its limbs were very thick and muscular, to enable it to climb trees and
spring a great distance. Its coat was of a light tawny tint, and of a
greyish-white below.
The Indians, delighted with their prize, sat up the rest of the night
cooking and eating the flesh, and telling anecdotes about the creatures.
The puma (_Leopardus concolor_) will seldom face a man when encountered
boldly. It attacks his flocks, however; and hunts deer, vicunas,
llamas, and, indeed, all animals it meets with except its rival, the
jaguar. It takes post on the branch of a tree, pressing itself so
closely along it as scarcely to be distinguished; and from thence
springs down on a passing deer or other animal, seizing it by the head,
which it draws back till the neck is broken. I shall have by-and-by to
recount another adventure with pumas of a far more terrific character;
so will say no more about them at present, except that we found the
flesh very white, and much like veal.
We spent three days at the encampment. At length one evening Don Jose
declared his intention of setting forth himself with Isoro. I begged
that I might accompany him, and John also seemed anxious to go.
"No, Senor John," said our friend; "it is your duty to remain and take
care of your young sister. But I will consent to take Harry with me,
and we will set forth to-morrow morning by daybreak. John, Arthur, and
your servants will be sufficient to guard the camp; but do not move out
beyond the point which intervenes between this and the pass, lest you
may be perceived by any enemy travelling on it. And let me advise you
also to be cautious how you receive any stranger who may perchance find
his way here. At night be careful to keep a fire burning, and to set a
watch. If you strictly follow my injunctions, I shall have no fear. I
need not remind you of your young sister, whom it is your duty to watch
over; and the consequences to her, as indeed to us all, would be sad
through any carelessness."
John, though evidently disappointed, promised to follow our friend's
advice. Next morning, even before the sun had risen above the tops of
the eastern mountains, while the valley was concealed by a dense mist,
which looked as if a sheet had been drawn across it, we were on foot,
and had finished breakfast. Don Jose, Isoro, and I were each provided
with long, stout staves. Our rifles were slung at our backs; wallets
containing our provisions were hung over our shoulders; and our feet
were shod with alpargates, which are sandals made of aloe fibres. They
are invariably worn by the natives, as any ordinary boots would
immediately be cut to pieces by the rocky ground. These, indeed, did
not last more than three or four days. We had supplied ourselves,
however, with a considerable number at one of the last places at which
we had stopped, as well as with axes and wood-knives, and several other
articles which we should require in our journey through the forest. We
had obtained also two bales of cloth, some clasp-knives, glass beads,
and trinkets, with which to pay the Indians for the services we might
require of them.
Ellen came out of her hut just as we were ready to start. She seemed
very anxious when she heard that I was to be one of the party. Don
Jose, however, assured her that he would run into no unnecessary danger,
and that our journey was absolutely necessary to ascertain whether our
father had passed by that way, or was still in the mountains behind us.
"I, too, am well acquainted with the country," he added; "and even
should any of our enemies come in this direction, I shall easily be able
to elude them."
I wished to take True with me; but Don Jose said that he would be of
more use at the camp,--that he might possibly betray us where we were
going, and insisted on his being left behind. Poor fellow, he gazed
inquiringly into my face when I tied him up, to know why he was thus
treated, and seemed to say, I thought, "You know I shall watch over you
better than any one else, and you may be sorry you left me behind." Our
friend was, however, so peremptory in the matter, that I was compelled
to yield to his wishes.
Bidding farewell to our friends, we took our way for some little
distance along the path we had come, and then, turning off, proceeded
northward, by which we should intersect, Don Jose said, another passage
across the mountains. Had I not been in active exercise every day for
so long, I should have found great difficulty in scaling those mountain
heights; but my nerves were firm, and from so frequently looking down
precipices, I no longer felt any dizziness, even when standing on the
edge of the deepest.
We travelled on for several days--sometimes through forests, at others
along the bare mountain-sides, above the region of vegetation. Some
nights were spent in huts, which we erected for ourselves, such as those
I have just described. The natives, when we stopped at their abodes,
always received our friend with great respect and attention. The
accommodation they could afford, however, was but scanty. They were
built of reeds thatched with palm, and consisted of but one room.
I have not yet described the natives of this region. They were of a
bronzed colour, with a sad and serious expression of countenance. They
were seldom five feet high, and the women were even shorter. They had
somewhat broad foreheads; their heads covered with thick, straight,
coarse, yet soft, jet-black hair, which hung down their backs. Their
mouths were large, but their lips were not thicker than those of
Europeans, and their teeth were invariably fine. They had large,
well-formed chins; cheek-bones rounded; their eyes somewhat small, with
black eyebrows; and little or no beard. They had broad chests and
square shoulders, and well-made backs and legs, which showed the
strength possessed by them. They were pleasant-looking people. The men
wore a short kilt, with a poncho over their shoulders; the women, a
petticoat of larger dimensions.
They offered us, on entering their huts, cups of the _guayusa_ tea. It
is an infusion of the large leaf of a tall shrub which grows wild in
that region. We found it very refreshing: though not so powerful a
stimulant as coca, it supports the strength, as do the leaves of that
plant, and we found it enable us to go for a considerable time without
food. The cleanest corner of the hut was assigned us for our
sleeping-place at night, with mats and dried leaves in the place of
mattresses. Our friend made inquiries as to whether any white people
had passed in that direction; and, by his orders, the natives were sent
out to gain information. I saw that he was uneasy, though he did not
explain to me the reason.
One morning we were on the point of again setting forward, when a
native, with a long mountain-staff in his hand, entered the hut. He
exchanged a few words with Don Jose.
"We must hasten away, Harry," said our friend; "there is not a moment to
be lost. The enemy have been tracking us, I find; but I trust that your
father has escaped them, and will ere long gain the banks of the Napo,
down which he may voyage to the Amazon. We shall be able to reach the
same river by a longer route, along which there will be less fear of
being followed."
He made these remarks as we were throwing our wallets over our backs.
Taking our staves, he leading, we hurried from the hut, following a
narrow path which led up the side of the mountain. We had approached
the hut by a lower and more frequented path than we were now taking; but
we were, I found, going in the direction from which we had come on the
previous day. Don Jose went first, I followed, and Isoro brought up the
rear. Though I exerted all my strength, I had some difficulty in
keeping up with my friend. Anxious as I was to obtain more particulars
of what had occurred, we could not exchange words at the rate we were
going. Every now and then, as we were climbing the cliffs, whenever I
happened to look back I saw Isoro turning an uneasy glance over his
shoulder. It was evident that we were pursued. We reached the edge of
a deep ravine, which appeared to bar our further progress. Don Jose,
however, without making any remark, continued climbing on along it; and
at length I saw what appeared to be a rope stretched across the chasm.
"Hasten, master! hasten!" I heard Isoro cry out: I knew enough of the
Quichua language to understand him.
We continued on till we reached the end of the rope, fastened to the
stump of a tree, and stretched across the chasm to the opposite side,
where it was secured in the same manner, a platform being raised to the
same elevation as the rock on which we stood.
"Harry," said my friend, turning to me for the first time, "I have seen
your nerves thoroughly tried, and I know your muscles are well-knit, or
I would not ask you to pass along this perilous bridge."
The rope was formed of the tough fibres of the maguey--an osier which
grows in the moist ground of that region. It possesses a great degree
of tenacity and strength.
"Master, let me go first," exclaimed Isoro, springing forward. "If it
breaks with me it will matter little, and you will have still a chance
for life."
Without waiting for Don Jose's answer, Isoro threw himself upon the
rope, and, holding on by hands and feet, began to work himself along. I
watched him anxiously. It was indeed a fearful mode of crossing that
awful gulf; and yet I knew that I must pass as he was doing. I was
thankful that the distance was not great, at all events. I breathed
more freely when at length I saw him alight on the platform. I
entreated Don Jose to go next. "It will give me more courage," I said.
"As you wish," he replied. "Let me caution you, only before I go, to
shut your eyes, and not to think of the gulf below you. You will then
find the passage perfectly easy."
Saying this, he took hold of the rope, and began to work his way across.
Scarcely, however, had he got into the centre, when I saw Isoro
pointing in the direction we had come from.
"Hasten! hasten!" he shouted out.
I looked round, and caught sight of two enormous hounds approaching at
full speed. I could hear their loud, baying voices as they came on
panting up the mountain-side. I did not hesitate a moment, when urged
by Isoro to cross at once. "The rope will bear you," he shouted
out--"not a moment is to be lost!"
Seizing the rope, I shut my eyes and began the awful passage; for awful
it was, as, in spite of my resolution, I could not help thinking of the
deep chasm over which I was making my way. I should be unwilling again
to attempt so fearful a passage; and yet, perhaps, once accustomed to
it, I should have thought nothing of the undertaking. I was surprised
when I felt my friend take my arm.
"You are safe," he said; "lower your feet;"--and I found myself standing
on the platform.
On opening my eyes, and looking towards the cliff from which we had
come, I saw two huge blood-hounds, with open mouths, baying at us.
Isoro, I should have said, had taken my rifle as well as his own, and
placed it against the tree.
"We must get rid of these animals," said Don Jose, "or they will betray
the road we have taken."
Saying this, he levelled his piece, and one of the dogs, as it sprung
forward on receiving the bullet, fell over the chasm into the depths
below. Isoro followed his master's example. His bullet took effect;
but the blood-hound, though wounded, was not killed outright, and
retreated a few paces. I was afraid he would have escaped; but before
he had gone far, he fell over, and after a few struggles, was dead.
"The animal must not remain there," observed Isoro, throwing himself
upon the rope; and in a few minutes he had again crossed the chasm.
Seizing the dog by the legs, he drew it to the edge, and hurled it after
its companion. Then, searching about in the crevices of the rocks for
moss and lichens, he strewed them over the ground where the dog had
fallen, so as to obliterate the traces of blood. He was some time thus
occupied before he had performed the operation to his satisfaction; and
then he once more crossed the chasm, with as much unconcern as if he had
been passing along an ordinary road. I proposed letting go the rope to
prevent our pursuers following.
"That is not necessary," said Don Jose. "It would cause trouble to our
friends, and I doubt whether our enemies will venture to cross. At all
events, the so doing would betray the route we have taken, and they may
find the means of crossing some leagues further down the stream."
We accordingly proceeded as before. We now came to a track, which, had
I been alone, I could not have followed, as it was generally, to my
eyes, altogether undistinguishable; yet Don Jose and Isoro traced it
without difficulty. It now led us along the edge of a precipice, where,
it seemed to me, so narrow was the space between the cliff on one side
and the fearful gulf on the other, that we could not possibly get by.
Our leader, however, went on without hesitation. At length he appeared
to reflect that my nerves might not be as firm as his.
"Here, Harry," he said, "take hold of the centre of my staff; Isoro will
hold the other end, and you may pass without risk."
I did as he directed, keeping my eyes away from the gulf as much as
possible. Now and then the path became somewhat wider; then again it
narrowed, affording just space to support our feet. I leaned against
the cliff, unwilling to throw more weight than I could possibly help on
the staff. I breathed more freely when we were once more ascending the
mountain-side. We were making our way round a rugged point of rock, and
Don Jose's head had just risen above it, when he called to us to stop.
"I see some people coming this way," he observed. "They may be friends,
but they may be foes. Harry, I am sorry to have exposed you to this
danger; for it is me they seek, not you. However, they have not seen
us, and we have yet time to conceal ourselves. Fortunately I know of a
place near here where we shall be able to do so; and unless yonder band
have these savage blood-hounds with them, we may yet escape capture."
Saying this, he began rapidly to ascend the mountain-side among the wild
and rugged rocks with which it was covered. After climbing up for some
distance, we saw before us a small opening in the rocks.
"This is the spot I was seeking," observed our friend; "and unless it is
known to our pursuers, we shall here remain in security till they have
passed by."
He leading the way, we all entered the cavern. It soon opened out into
a large chamber with rugged sides. The passage to it also had several
buttresses or projecting rocks, behind which we might take post, and
could have fired down without being seen on any one approaching. From
the entrance, also, we could watch the pathway by which we had come; and
it was so small and overgrown with shrubs that it could not be perceived
at any distance. Don Jose told me to climb up behind one of the rocks,
while he and Isoro took post behind others. So completely were they
concealed, that I could not discover where they were except by their
voices. We waited anxiously, till at length a band of armed men was
seen winding round the hill. Already they had passed under the cave.
"We might follow, and without difficulty hurl every one of those fellows
into the abyss below," observed Don Jose. "But we will spare them; they
obey but the orders of their superiors."
After waiting a little time longer, Don Jose emerged from the cavern,
and looking about, told us that the road was clear. We accordingly
descended, though it required great caution to avoid making a rapid
descent into the deep ravine below us. For the greater part of the day
we continued toiling on, supported by the coca with which we
occasionally replenished our mouths. At length, towards evening, we
made our way to a native hut, where we were received as usual. Here
hammocks were slung for us between the pole on which the roof rested,
our hosts undertaking to keep careful watch to prevent surprise.
I had become very anxious about the rest of our party, fearing that they
might have been discovered. At the end of two more days I recognised
the features of the spot where we had left them. No one was to be seen.
My heart sank. Had they been seized and carried off to Quito, or had
they made their escape? Great was my satisfaction when, on rounding a
rocky point, I caught sight of the huts, and saw Arthur running towards
us. "We are all well--very thankful to see you return!" he exclaimed,
"for we began to fear that you might have been lost." Directly
afterwards John and Ellen emerged from their huts, and now all the party
were gathered round us. Poor dear Ellen welcomed me with tears in her
eyes. Her spirits revived when Don Jose told her he had reason to
believe that our parents were in safety. True could not restrain his
joy, but kept leaping up and licking my hands and face, and jumping
round and round me. Wherever I went he closely followed, determined not
again to lose sight of me. At supper he sat by my side watching my
face, nor would he leave me even though John and Arthur tried to tempt
him away with offers of bits of pork or parrots' legs.
All the party were eager to set out at once, but it was necessary before
we could do so to procure bearers to convey our luggage along the long
and intricate path we had to take through the forest. This our friend
undertook to do by the following day from a village at no great distance
off.
The next morning a dozen stout natives--young, active men--made their
appearance. They all had at their backs large baskets bound by withes
passing across the forehead and chest. They were but lightly clothed.
A small poncho covered their shoulders, and the usual cloth and kilt was
worn round the loins, a wisp of leaves preventing their backs being
chafed by their burdens. Each man also carried a long staff in his
hand, and a bag of roasted corn as provision for the journey. The
burdens were soon adjusted. One of them had a sort of chair at his
back, which Don Jose had ordered to carry the senora, as Ellen was
denominated. She insisted, however, that she was well able to walk, and
not without difficulty we persuaded her to take advantage of the
conveyance which had been provided.
We forthwith set out, and descending the mountain, were soon in the
midst of the thick forest. Two of the Indians, who carried lighter
burdens than the rest, went ahead with axes in their hands to clear the
way. It was extraordinary with what rapidity they cut through the
sipos, or hanging vines, which threw their serpent-like coils from tree
to tree. So quick is their growth in that moist region, that other
travellers following in a few weeks would have to perform the same
operation, our friend told us. As we advanced the forest became thicker
and thicker, the dark foliage forming a lofty vault through which no
sunlight can ever enter. The air felt cool and excessively damp,
compared to the exposed sides of the mountains. A constant mist seemed
to hang on the branches. Not a sound was to be heard; scarcely a bird
did we see in the swampy shades. The stillness and gloom, indeed,
became almost painful. From the lofty trees hung down thousands of
lianas, or air-roots, some forming thick festoons, others perfectly
straight, of all lengths, many reaching almost down to our heads, others
again touching the ground and taking root in the soft earth. Here and
there some giant of the forest, decayed by age, had fallen, to remain
suspended in the loops of the sipos. Thus we went on, following in
Indian file. I kept near Ellen to cheer her up, while True followed
close at my heels, every now and then licking my hands and jumping up,
as if to ask me what I thought of the strange region we had entered. We
found it rather difficult to converse. Sometimes we walked on for a
considerable distance in silence.
We had thus been progressing for some time, the only sound heard being
that of our footsteps on the rustling leaves, or that produced by the
sharp axes of our pioneers, when suddenly our ears were startled by a
loud crash, which, contrasted with the previous silence, made it seem as
if the whole forest was coming down together. Ellen gave way to a
slight cry of alarm. "Do not be afraid, my young friends!" shouted Don
Jose. "It is only an ancient tree, weary of standing so long." In a
short time the crashing sound ceased, and directly afterwards we came in
sight of a vast trunk, which had fallen across the path we were about to
pass along. We had to make a circuit therefore to avoid it. We could
not but feel thankful that it had not delayed its fall till we were
passing beneath, although we might possibly have had time to escape, in
consequence of its being upheld for a few seconds by the sipos, till its
vast weight had dragged them down.