THE SADDLE AND BRIDLE.
"Form by mild bits his mouth, nor harshly wound,
Till summer rolls her fourth-revolving round.
Then wheel in graceful orbs his paced career,
Let step by step in cadence strike the ear,
The flexile limbs in curves alternate prance,
And seem to labor as they slow advance:
Then give, uncheck'd, to fly with loosen'd rein,
Challenge the winds, and wing th' unprinted plain."
VIRGIL, _Sotheby's Translation_.
In ye ancient times, the damsel who wished to enjoy horseback riding did
not, like her successor of to-day, trust to her own ability to ride and
manage her horse, but, seated upon a pad or cushion, called a "pillion,"
which was fastened behind a man's saddle, rode without a stirrup and
without troubling herself with the reins, preserving her balance by
holding to the belt of a trusty page, or masculine admirer, whose duty
it was to attend to the management of the horse. We learn that as late
as A. D. 1700, George III. made his entry into London with his wife,
Charlotte, thus seated behind him. Gradually, however, as women became
more confident, they rode alone upon a sort of side-saddle, on which by
means of the reins and by bracing her feet against a board, called a
"planchette," which was fastened to the front of the saddle, the rider
managed to keep her seat. Such was the English horsewoman of the
seventeenth century, in the time of Charles II.,--"the height of fashion
and the cream of style."
To the much quoted "vanity of the fair sex" do we owe the invention of
the side-saddle of our grandmothers. About the middle of the sixteenth
century Catherine de Medici, wife of Henry II. of France, having a very
symmetrical figure which she wished to display to advantage, invented
the second pommel of the saddle, and thus, while gratifying her own
vanity, was unconsciously the means of greatly benefiting her sex by
enabling them to ride with more ease and freedom. To this saddle there
was added, about 1830, a third pommel, the invention of which is due to
the late M. Pellier, Sr., an eminent riding teacher in Paris, France.
This three-pommeled saddle is now called the =English saddle=, and is
the one generally used by the best lady riders of the present day.
This so-called "English saddle" was promptly appreciated, and wherever
introduced soon supplanted the old-fashioned one with only two pommels.
(Fig. 7.)
[Illustration: Fig. 7.--English Saddle.
1, second pommel; 2, third pommel; 3, shield; 4, saddle-flap; 5, cantle;
6, stirrup-leather; 7, stirrup; 8, girths; 9, platform.]
A lady who has once ridden one of these three-pommeled saddles will
never care to use any other kind. It renders horseback riding almost
perfectly safe, for, if the rider has learned to use it properly, it
will be nearly impossible for a horse to throw her. It gives her a much
firmer seat even than that of a gentleman in his saddle, and at the same
time, if rightly used, does not interfere with that easy grace so
essential to good riding. In many of our large cities where this saddle
is employed twenty lady riders may now be seen in the park or on the
road where formerly there was one; and this is wholly due to the sense
of security it gives, especially to a timid rider, a feeling never
attainable in the two-pommeled saddle, where the seat is maintained
chiefly by the balance, or by using the reins as a means of support.
By sitting erect, taking a firm hold upon the second pommel with the
right knee, and pressing the left knee up against the third pommel, a
perfectly secure seat is obtained, from which the rider cannot be
shaken, provided the saddle is well girthed and the horse does not fall,
while her hands are left free to manage the reins, a very important
point where the horse is spirited or restless. To insure the greatest
safety and comfort for both horse and rider, it is very important that
the saddle should be accurately constructed. If possible, it should be
made especially for the horse that is to carry it, so that it may suit
his particular shape. If it does not fit him well, it will be likely to
turn, or may gall his back severely, and make him for a long time unfit
for service. It may even, in time, give rise to fistulous withers, will
certainly make the horse restless and uneasy on the road, and the pain
he suffers will interfere with the ease and harmony of his gaits. Many a
horse has been rendered unfit for a lady's use solely because the saddle
did not fit well.
The under surface of the arch of the saddle-tree, in front, should never
come in contact with the animal's withers, nor should the points of the
saddle-tree be so tightly fitted as to interfere with the movements of
his shoulders. On the other hand, they should not be so far apart as to
allow the central furrowed line of the under surface of the saddle (the
chamber) to rest upon the animal's back. The saddle should be so fitted
and padded that this central chamber will lie directly over the spinal
column of the horse without touching it, while the padded surfaces, just
below the chamber, should rest closely on the sides of the back, and be
supported at as many points as is possible without making the animal
uncomfortable.
When a horse has very high withers, a breast-plate, similar to that
employed in military service, may be used, to prevent the saddle from
slipping backwards. This contrivance consists of a piece of leather
passing round the neck like a collar, to the lowest part of which is
fastened a strap that passes between the fore-legs of the horse and is
attached to the saddle girth. Two other straps, one on each side,
connect the upper part of the collar piece with the upper part of the
saddle. The under strap should never be very loose, for should the
saddle slip back and this strap not be tight enough to hold down the
collar piece, the latter will be pulled up by the upper straps so as to
press against the windpipe of the horse and choke him. Should the horse
have low withers and a round, barrel-like body, false pannels or padded
pieces may be used; but an animal of this shape is not suitable for a
lady, for it will be almost impossible to keep the saddle from turning,
no matter how carefully it may be girthed.
A sufficiently spacious seat or platform to the saddle is much more
comfortable for both horse and rider than a narrow one. It gives the
rider a firmer seat, and does not bring so much strain upon the girths.
This platform should also be made as nearly level as possible, and be
covered with quilted buckskin. Leather, now so often used for this
purpose, becomes after a time so slippery that it is difficult to retain
one's seat, and the pommels when covered with it are apt to chafe the
limbs severely.
To secure a thoroughly comfortable saddle it is necessary that not only
the horse, but also the rider, should be measured for it; for a saddle
suitable for a slender person could hardly be used with any comfort by a
stout one, and it is almost as bad to have a saddle too large as too
small. Care must be taken to have sufficient length from the front of
the second pommel to the cantle. In the ready-made saddles this distance
is usually too short, and the rider is obliged to sit upon the back edge
of the seat, thereby injuring both herself and her horse. It is much
better to err in the other direction and have the seat too long rather
than too short. The third pommel should be so placed that it will just
span the knee when the stirrup-leather is of the right length. It should
be rather short, slightly curved, and blunt. If it be too long and have
too much of a curve, it will, in the English trot, interfere with the
free action of the rider's left leg, and if the horse should fall, it
would be almost impossible for her to disengage her leg and free herself
in time to escape injury. The third pommel must be so placed as not to
interfere with the position of the right leg when this is placed around
the second pommel with the right heel drawn backwards. To get the proper
proportions for her saddle, the lady must, when seated, take her measure
from the under side of the knee joint to the lower extremity of her
back, and also--to secure the proper width for the seat--from thigh to
thigh. If these two measurements are given to the saddle-maker he will,
if he understands his business, be able to construct the saddle
properly.
The saddle recommended by the author, one which she has used for several
years, and still continues to use, is represented in Fig. 7. The third
pommel of this saddle is of medium size, and instead of being close to
the second one is placed a short distance below it, thus enabling the
rider to use a longer stirrup than she otherwise could; for if the two
pommels be very close together, the rider will be obliged to use a very
short stirrup in order to make this third pommel of any use. The
disadvantage of a short stirrup is that, in a long ride, it is apt to
occasion cramp in the left leg. It also interferes with an easy and
steady position in the saddle. But with a stirrup of the right length,
and the arrangement of the pommels such as we have described, a
steadiness is given to the left leg that can never be obtained with the
old-fashioned two-pommeled saddle.
The third pommel must be screwed securely into the saddle-tree, and once
fixed in its proper place, should not again be moved, as if frequently
turned it will soon get loose, and the rider will not be able to rely
upon its assistance to retain her balance. It should be screwed into
place inversely, that is, instead of being turned to the right it must
be turned to the left, so that the pressure of the knee may make it
firmer and more secure, instead of loosening it, as would be the case if
it were screwed to the right. This pommel should be well padded, so that
the knee may not be bruised by it.
The second pommel should also be well padded, and should always be
curved slightly so as to suit the form of the right leg. It must not be
so high as to render it difficult, in mounting and dismounting, to pass
the right knee over it. The off-pommel, since the English saddle has
come into vogue, has almost disappeared, being reduced to a mere vestige
of its former size. This is a great improvement to the rider's
appearance, as she now no longer has that confined, cribbed-up look
which the high pommeled saddle of twenty years ago gave her.
The distance between the off-pommel and the second one should be adapted
to the size of the rider's leg, being wide enough to allow the leg to
rest easily between the two; but no wider than this, as too much space
will be apt to lead her to sit sideways upon the saddle.
A saddle should be well padded, but not so much so as to lift the rider
too high above the horse's back. The shield in front should not press
upon the neck of the horse, but should barely touch it. The saddle flaps
must be well strapped down, for if they stand out stiffly, the correct
position of the stirrup leg will be interfered with. A side-saddle
should never be too light in weight, for this will make the back of the
horse sore, especially if he be ridden by a heavy woman.
The tacks or nails in the under part of the saddle should be firmly
driven in, as they may otherwise become loose and either injure the
horse, or make him nervous and uneasy. To avoid trouble of this kind,
some people advocate the use of false pannels, which are fastened to the
saddle-tree by rods or loops, and can be removed and replaced at will.
It is said that by using them, the same saddle can be made to fit
different horses. The author has no personal knowledge of this
invention, but it has been strongly recommended to her by several
excellent horsemen. A felt or flannel saddle cloth, of the same color as
the rider's habit, should always be placed under the saddle, as it helps
to protect the horse's back, as well as to prevent the saddle from
getting soiled.
Every finished side-saddle has three girths. Two of these are made of
felt cloth, or strong webbing, and are designed to fasten it firmly upon
the horse's back. The third one, made of leather, is intended to keep
the flaps down. There should always be, on each side, three straps
fastened to the saddle-tree under the leather flaps; upon two of these
the girths are to be buckled, while the third is an extra one, to be
used as a substitute in case of any accident to either of the others.
Between the outside leather flaps and the horse's body there should be
an under flap of flannel or cloth, which should be well padded on the
side next the horse, because, when tightly girthed, the girth-buckles
press directly upon the outside of this flap, and if its padding be
thin, or worn, the animal will suffer great pain. This is a cause of
restlessness which is seldom noticed, and many a horse has been thought
to be bad tempered when he was only wild with pain from the pressure of
the girth-buckles against his side.
[Illustration: Fig. 8.--Stokes' mode of girthing the saddle.]
The credit of introducing a new method of tightening girths belongs, so
far as we know, to Mr. Stokes, formerly a riding-teacher in Cincinnati.
This method enables one to girth the horse tightly, without using so
much muscular effort as is usually required, so that by its means, a
lady can, if she wish, saddle her own horse. (Fig. 8.)
The following is a description of Mr. Stokes' manner of girthing: At the
end of each of the leather girth straps, which hang down between the
flaps on the off-side of the saddle, is fastened a strong iron buckle
without any tongue, but with a thin steel roller or revolving cylinder
on its lower edge. On the near side of the saddle the girths are
strapped in the usual manner, but, on the _outer_ end of each cloth
girth there is, in addition to an ordinary buckle, with a roller on the
upper side of it, a long strap, which is fastened to the under side of
the girth, the buckle being on the upper side. This strap, when the
saddle is girthed, is passed up through the tongueless buckle, moving
easily over the steel roller, and is then brought down to the buckle
with tongue on the end of the girth, and there fastened in the usual
manner.
The slipper stirrup, when first introduced, was a great favorite, for in
addition to furnishing an excellent support, it was believed that it
would release the foot instantly should the rider be thrown. This latter
merit, however, it was found that it did not possess, as many severe
accidents occurred where this stirrup was used, especially with the
two-pommeled saddle. Instead of releasing the rider in these cases, as
it was supposed it would, the stirrup tilted up and held her foot so
firmly grasped that she was dragged some distance before she could be
released. This stirrup, therefore, gradually fell into disfavor, and is
now no longer used by the best riders.
[Illustration: Fig. 9.--Victoria stirrup.]
There are, at the present time, three kinds of stirrups which are
favorites among finished riders. The first is called the "Victoria"
because it is the one used by the Queen of England. (Fig. 9.) In this
stirrup the platform on which the foot rests is broad and comfortable,
and is slightly roughened to prevent the foot from slipping. A
spring-bar attachment (Fig. 10) is placed at the top of the
stirrup-leather under the saddle-flap, and at the end of this bar there
is a spring, so that, if the rider be thrown, the stirrup-leather
becomes instantly detached from the saddle.
[Illustration: Fig. 10.--Spring-bar for stirrup leather.]
The second variety of stirrup, known as "Lennan's safety stirrup," has
all the merit of the preceding one. If kept well oiled and free from
mud, it will release the foot at once, when an accident occurs. It may,
if desired, be accompanied by the spring-bar attachment, and thus
rendered doubly secure. (Fig. 11.) Some people, however, dislike the
spring-bar attachment, and prefer to rely entirely upon the spring of
the stirrup to release the foot.
[Illustration: Fig. 11.--Lennan's safety stirrup.]
The third stirrup, called "Latchford's safety stirrup," consists of a
stirrup within a stirrup, and is so arranged that, when a rider is
thrown, the inner stirrup springs open and releases the foot. (Fig. 12.)
Either of these stirrups can be procured in London, England, or from the
best saddle-makers in this country.
[Illustration: Fig. 12.--Latchford's safety stirrup.]
A =stirrup-iron= should never be made of cast metal, but invariably of
the best wrought steel: it should be adapted to the size of the rider's
foot, and should, if possible, have an instep pad at the top, while the
bottom platform, upon which the foot rests, should be broad, and
roughened on its upper surface.
The =stirrup-leather= should be of the very best material, and should
have neither fissures nor cracks in any part of it. It is very important
to examine this leather frequently, and see that it is neither wearing
thin, nor breaking at its upper part at the bar, nor at the lower part
where it is fastened to the stirrup.
A novel arrangement of the stirrup-leather, by means of the so-called
"balance-strap," has of late years been used by some riders. The stirrup
is, in this case, fastened to the balance-strap, which consists of a
single strap passing up through the ring-bar, and then brought down to
within two or three inches of the lower edge of the saddle-flap; here it
is passed through a slit in the flap, then carried under the horse to
the other side and buckled to another strap, which is fastened, for this
purpose, just below the off-pommel. By this arrangement the saddle-flaps
on both sides are held down, and the rider, without dismounting, can
change the length of her stirrup by merely tightening or loosening this
strap. Although highly recommended by some riders, this balance strap
has one objectionable feature, which is that, as the measurement of the
horse's girth is not constant during a long ride, it will be necessary
to tighten the strap frequently in order to keep the stirrup of the
proper length. The old way of fastening is much better, for too much
complication in the saddle and bridle is apt to annoy and confuse the
rider, especially if a novice. The =golden rule= in riding on horseback
is to have everything accurate, simple, safe, and made of the very best
material that can be procured.
The =bridle= should be neatly and plainly made, with no large rosettes
at the sides, nor highly colored bands across the forehead. The reins
and the head-piece should never be made of rounded straps, but always
of flat ones, and should be of the best and strongest leather,
especially the reins. These should be carefully examined from time to
time, in order to be sure that there are no imperfections in them. Any
roughness or hardness is an indication of defectiveness, and may be
detected by dexterously passing the fingers to and fro over the flat
surfaces, which should be smooth, soft, and flexible. There can hardly
be too much care taken about this matter, for the snapping of a rein
always alarms a horse; and, feeling himself free from all control, he
will be almost certain to run away, while the rider, if she has no other
reins, will be powerless to protect herself, or to check him in his
purpose.
=Martingales= are rarely used by riders, as they are troublesome, and
can very well be dispensed with, unless the horse has the disagreeable
trick of raising his head suddenly, from time to time, when a martingale
will become necessary in order to correct this fault. The French
martingale is the best. This consists of a single strap, fastened either
to the under part of a nose-band at its centre under the jaw, or by
branches to each side of the snaffle-bit at the corners of the horse's
mouth and then carried between the fore-legs and fastened to the girth.
When the horse raises his head too high this strap pulls upon the
nose-band, compresses his nostrils, interferes with his breathing, and
causes him to lower his head promptly. The horse should not be too much
confined by the martingale, for the object is simply to prevent him from
lifting his head too high, and all other ordinary movements should be
left free.
[Illustration: Fig. 13.--Chifney bit.]
Among the many =bits= which have been used, that known as the "Pelham"
has been highly praised, although, at the present time, it is almost, if
not entirely, out of use. It might, however, from the severity of its
curb prove of service in controlling a hard-mouthed horse, although such
a one should never be ridden by a lady. The Chifney bit is another very
severe one, and is very useful in managing a horse that pulls hard. But
if the animal have a tender mouth, this bit should be used with great
caution, and not at all by an inexperienced rider. (Fig. 13.)
The bit known as the "snaffle," when made plain and not twisted, is the
mildest of all bits, and some horses will move readily only when this
is used, the curb instantly rousing their temper. Others, again, do best
with a combination of the curb and the snaffle, and although the former
may seldom require to be used, its mere presence in the mouth of the
horse will prove a sufficient check to prevent him from running away.
Most horses, however, especially those ridden by ladies, require a light
use of the curb to bring them to their best gait.
[Illustration: Fig. 14.--The Combination Bit.
_a_, _a_, rings fastened on each side to small bar, at right angles to
and directed backward of the cheek; _b_, _b_, rings for the curb-reins.]
The bit used and recommended by many, but not by the author, is a curb
so arranged as to form a combination bit in one piece. It consists of a
curb (Fig. 14), to each side of which, at the angles of the horse's
mouth, a ring is attached, and to each of these rings is fastened a
rein. This gives a second pair of reins and converts the curb into a
kind of snaffle. In this way it answers the purpose of both curb and
snaffle without crowding the horse's mouth with two separate bits.
If two bits should be used--the curb and bridoon--instead of the above
combination bit, the bridoon should be placed in the horse's mouth in
such a way as not to interfere with the action of the curb; it must,
therefore, be neither too thick nor too long, and so fitted into the
angles of the mouth as to neither wrinkle nor draw back the lips.
The bit should always be made of the best steel, be well rounded, and
perfectly smooth. Above all it should be accurately fitted to the
horse's mouth: if it be too narrow it will compress his lips against the
bars of his mouth, and the pain thereby occasioned will render him very
restive. The mouth-piece should be just long enough to have the cheeks
of the bit fit closely to the outer surface of the lips without
compressing them, and must not be so long as to become displaced
obliquely when a rein is pulled.
[Illustration: Fig. 15.--Dwyer's Curb-Bit.
1, 1, upper bars or cheeks; 2, 2, lower bars; 3, the port; 4, 4, the
canons; 5, curb-chain; 6, curb-hook; 7, lip strap and ring; 8, 8, rein
rings; 9, 9, head stall rings.]
According to Major Dwyer, who is a high authority on the subject of
bits,--and whose little work should be carefully studied by all
bit-makers,--it seems to be the general rule to have the lower bar or
cheek of the curb-bit twice as long as the upper one; but, as there is
no standard measure for the upper one the other is frequently made too
long. Major Dwyer states that the mouth-piece, for any horse of ordinary
size, should be one and three fourths inches for the upper bar, and
three and a half inches for the lower one. This makes five and one
fourth inches for the entire length of the two bars, from the point at
which the curb-hook acts above to that where the lower ring acts below.
(Fig. 15.) For ordinary ponies the upper bar may be one and a half
inches, and the lower one three, making a total length of four and a
half inches.
Every lady rider should know that the longer the lower bar, the thinner
the mouth-piece, and the higher the "port," the more severe and painful
will be the action of the bit upon the horse's mouth. For a horse of
ordinary size, the width of the port should be one and one third inches;
for a pony, one inch. The height will vary according to the degree of
severity required.
The curb-chain, for a horse that has a chin-groove of medium size,
should be about four fifths of an inch wide, as a chain that is rather
broad and flat is less painful for the horse than a thin, sharp one. If
the chin-groove be very narrow, a curb-chain of less width will have to
be used, and should be covered with cloth; or, instead of a chain, a
narrow strap of leather may be used, which should be kept soft and
pliable. The proper length for the curb-chain, not including the
curb-hooks, is about one fourth more than the width of the animal's
mouth. The hooks should be exactly alike, and about an inch and a
quarter long.
Some horses are very expert in the trick of catching the cheek of the
bit between their teeth. To remedy this vice a lip-strap may be used;
but it will be found much better to have each cheek or bar bent into the
form of the letter S, remembering, however, that the measurement of the
length, referred to above, must in the case of curved bars be made in a
straight line. Sometimes the upper bar of the curb-bit will, on account
of the peculiar form of the horse's head, press against and gall his
cheeks. When this is noticed, most people change the bit, and get one
with a longer mouth-piece; but where the mouth-piece is of the same
length as the width of the mouth, the proper remedy for this difficulty
will be to have the upper bar bent out enough to free the cheeks from
its pressure.
The curb-bit once made and properly adjusted to the head-stall, the next
step will be to =fit it accurately= to the horse's mouth. Every rider
should thoroughly understand not only how to do this, but also how to
place the saddle correctly upon the horse. Upon these points nearly all
grooms require instruction, and very few gentlemen, even, know how to
arrange a side-saddle so as to have it comfortable for both horse and
rider. Moreover, should the lady be riding alone, as frequently happens
in the country, and meet with any accident to saddle or bridle, or need
to have either adjusted, she would, without knowledge on these subjects,
be completely helpless, whereas with it she could promptly remedy the
difficulty.
[Illustration: Fig. 16.--The Bit adjusted.
1, 1, snaffle-rein; 2, 2, curb-rein.]
In order to adjust the bit permanently to the head-stall, so that
afterwards the horse can always be properly bridled, one must proceed
as follows: having first fitted the head-stall to the horse's head by
means of the upper buckles, the bit must then be adjusted, by means of
the lower ones, in such a manner that the canons of the mouth-piece
will rest on the bars of the horse's mouth, exactly opposite the
chin-groove. (Fig. 16.) Should the tusks of the horse be irregularly
placed, the mouth-piece must be adjusted a little higher than the
projecting tusks, so as to just avoid touching them. The curb-chain
may now be hooked into the ring of the upper bar on the off-side,
leaving one link loose, after which the other hook must be fastened to
the ring of the bar on the near-side, leaving two links loose. Care
should be taken to have the curb-chain rest with its flat surface
against the chin-groove in such a way that it will have no tendency to
rise up when the reins are pulled upon. The curb-chain should never be
tight; there must always be room enough between it and the chin to
insert the first and second fingers of the right hand flatwise; and,
while the fingers are thus placed, if the reins are drawn up, it will
be easy to ascertain whether the chain pinches. If, when the reins are
tightened, the bit stands stiff and immovable, it will show that the
chain is too short and needs to be lengthened a link or two. If the
horse gently yields his head to the tightening of the reins, without
suddenly drawing back, or thrusting out his nose as the tension is
increased, it will prove that the bit is correctly placed. But if the
lower bars of the bit can be drawn back quite a distance before the
horse will yield to the pull of the reins, then the chain is too long,
and should be shortened. "Lightness, accuracy, easy motion, a total
absence of stiffness, constraint, or painful action, are the
characteristics of good bitting; and if these be attained, ready
obedience to the rider's hand will be the result."--_F. Dwyer._
When the bit has once been correctly adjusted to the head-stall and to
the horse's mouth, there will be little difficulty in bridling him upon
any subsequent occasion. Thus: standing at the left of the horse's head,
the head-stall, held by its upper part in the right hand, should be
lifted up in front of the horse's head, while the left hand, holding the
bit by its mouth-piece, should put this between the animal's lips, press
it against his teeth, and into his mouth, which he will generally open
a little in order to admit it. As soon as this has been accomplished,
the upper part of the head-stall must be promptly raised so as to bring
its upper strap or band across the forehead, while at the same time the
horse's ears are passed between the forehead band and the strap which
forms the upper part of the head-stall.
During these manoeuvres, the curb-chain must be passed under the chin,
so as to rest against the chin-groove, and care be taken to keep the
fingers of the left hand out of the horse's mouth while the mouth-piece
is being put in. The bit and head-stall having been properly arranged,
the whole should be secured by buckling the throat-strap loosely on the
left side. If this strap be buckled tightly, the horse will be unable to
bend his neck properly. The mouth-piece of the bit should be washed,
dried, and then rubbed with fresh olive or cotton-seed oil, each time
after use, to preserve it from rust.
Neither a rusted bit nor a very cold one should ever be put into a
horse's mouth. In frosty winter weather the bit should always be warmed.
Many a valuable horse has had his mouth seriously injured by having an
icy cold mouth-piece put into it, to say nothing of the pain and
suffering it must invariably occasion.
In order to produce a neat and pleasing appearance, there should be no
unsightly ends or straps left dangling from the loops of the head-stall.
They should be so snugly fitted into their places that they cannot work
out of their loops.
The forehead band should never be too tight for the horse's comfort, and
the small rosettes that lie over his temples should be well oiled
underneath and kept soft.
A side-saddle may be made accurately according to all recognized rules,
and yet lose nearly all its good effects by being improperly put on; the
rider will be made uncomfortable, the horse's back will be injured, and
the saddle will eventually have its padding so compressed in the wrong
direction that it will be impossible to put it on in the right way.
Every lady rider should know as well how to have her saddle properly
adjusted as how to sit her horse or manage the reins. On a well-formed
horse, with rather high withers and sloping shoulders, the centre of the
saddle should be placed over the middle of the back, and be so arranged
that the front part of the saddle-tree shall be a very short distance
back of the horse's shoulder-blade, for if allowed to rest upon the
shoulder-blade it will interfere very much with the action of the
shoulder muscles. It is a common fault of grooms to place the saddle a
little sideways, and too far forward on the withers. The well-taught
rider can, however, easily decide whether the saddle is in the right
position: standing on the off-side of the horse, she must pass her right
hand under the arch of the saddle-tree, which should be directly over
the withers, and see whether it sits perfectly even, bearing no more to
one side than to the other; then stepping behind the horse, but at a
safe distance from his heels, she can see whether the long central
furrow of the under surface of the saddle-seat from front to rear
(chamber) is in a direct line with the animal's backbone, and forms an
open space over it. If these conditions are fulfilled, the saddle is
properly adjusted. If the horse have rather straight shoulders, together
with a plump, round body, the saddle will require to be placed rather
farther forward, but with the chamber still in a line with the backbone.
On some horses of this shape, the saddle, to be held securely, will need
to be set so far forward that the girths will have to pass close to the
fore-legs. A horse of this description is not suitable for the
side-saddle, but as ladies in the country and in the far West are
sometimes obliged to ride such, it is very important for their safety
to know how these ill-formed animals should be saddled, because should
the saddle be put too far back on such horses, it will be sure to turn.
It not infrequently happens that after the saddle has been placed in the
correct position, it becomes slightly displaced while being fastened. To
avoid this, it should always be girthed on the off-side, and great care
be taken, when fastening the girths, especially the first one, that the
saddle be not jerked over to the left; and that in pulling upon the
short strap on the off-side, to which the girth is to be buckled, the
saddle be not forced to the right.
When girthing the saddle, the lady may place her left hand on the middle
of the seat and hold it steady while she arranges the first girth, and
with her right hand draws it as tightly as she can, without using
violent exertion, or making any sudden jerk; she will then be able, with
both hands, to tighten the girth as much as is necessary, doing this
with an even, regular pull, so that the saddle will not be moved out of
place. Before fastening the other girths, she should step behind the
horse and assure herself that the chamber is in a line with the horse's
backbone, as before described. If it is not, she must loosen the girth,
and, after straightening the saddle, proceed as before. The girth to be
first fastened is the one nearest the horse's fore-legs; the second
girth is the one back of the first, and should be placed evenly over the
first one and fastened equally tight; the third is the leather girth
which is intended to keep down the saddle-flaps; this must be placed
evenly over the other two, but it is not essential to have it drawn so
tight as they, but just enough so to hold the flaps. Most horses have a
trick, when they are being girthed, of expanding their sides and
abdomen, for the purpose of securing a loose girthing; and girths that
seem almost too tight when they are first buckled are often found to be
too loose after the rider has mounted. Too tight a girth is injurious to
the horse, but too loose a one may cause the saddle to turn. A round,
plump horse with low withers will need tighter girthing than a better
shaped one. The lady rider should study the shape of her horse, and use
her own judgment as to how tight the girths should be drawn, making due
allowance for the trick alluded to above. If there is any second person
present while the saddle is being arranged, matters may be facilitated
if this person will hold the saddle firmly by the off-pommel while the
girthing is being done.
The author has been thus particular in describing the bit and saddle
with their proper arrangement, as well as the girthing of the horse,
because so few lady riders bestow any attention upon these very
important matters; and yet, if one desires to ride safely and well, a
knowledge of them is positively necessary. Grooms cannot always be
depended upon, and, indeed, seldom know much about the side-saddle;
there is an adage which is applicable to many of them: "Too much must
not be expected from the head of him who labors only with his hands." In
the instructions given by gentlemen writers, useful as they may be in
many respects, there is usually a good deal of practical information
omitted which a lady rider ought to know, but the necessity of which it
is perhaps impossible for a gentleman fully to appreciate or understand;
this knowledge the lady will have to gain either from her own experience
or from one of her own sex who has studied the subject carefully.
In preparing for horseback riding, nothing should be omitted that can
give greater security to the rider, or protect her more completely from
accident of any sort. Every article should be of the very best material,
so that a breakage or casualty of any kind may be only a remote
possibility. The knowledge that everything is right, and firmly and
properly placed, creates a confidence which adds greatly to the pleasure
of the ride.