CHAPTER IV.

WINCHESTER WORTHIES: ALFRED THE GREAT, IZAAK WALTON, AND THOMAS KEN.

WINCHESTER, _July 2, 1902_.

[Sidenote: Memorials of Kings, Good and Bad.]

Unquestionably the most interesting town in the south of England to

a student of history is Winchester. It was the ancient capital of

the kingdom, and teems with memories of Alfred the Great, Canute,

William the Conqueror, and many of their successors. Thorneycroft's

fine bronze statue of Alfred stands in the middle of the High Street,

and instantly catches the eye of any one looking up or down this

central thoroughfare. As we paused in front of it for a few moments,

I had the pleasure of hearing two little boys from America, who are

travelling with me, recall Alfred's diligence as a student, and his

winning of the book offered by his mother as a prize; his invention

of a candle chronometer, and of the lanthorn, as well as the familiar

incident of the scolding given him by the neatherd's wife for his

negligence in allowing her cakes to burn. The purity of his character,

his self-sacrificing labors for his people, and the righteousness and

prosperity of his reign have caused him to shine like a star in the

long succession of English kings, who have too often been selfish,

grasping, licentious or tyrannical.

For example, in Winchester Cathedral, close at hand, lie the remains of

Hardicanute, the last Danish monarch, who died of excessive drinking.

The fact that a man is buried in a cathedral argues nothing here as to

his piety. If he wore the crown, or won battles, or wrote poems, he is

given a place in God's house, regardless of his character.

But, besides men like Hardicanute or William Rufus, Winchester

Cathedral boasts the possession of mortuary chests containing the bones

of Canute, Egbert, Ethelwulf, and other kings. There is a monumental

brass on the wall in memory of Jane Austen the novelist, who is buried

under the pavement.

[Sidenote: Memorial of the Gentle Fisherman.]

But by far the most interesting thing of this kind in the cathedral,

is the floor slab which marks the resting place of Izaak Walton, the

Prince of Fishermen (1593-1683), and the author of _The Compleat

Angler_, concerning which it has been truthfully said that Walton

"hooked a much bigger fish that he angled for" when he offered

his quaint treatise to the public. There is hardly a name in our

literature, even of the first rank, whose immortality is more secure,

or whose personality is the subject of a more devoted cult. Not only

is he the _sacer vates_ of a considerable sect in the religion of

recreation, but multitudes who have never put a worm on a hook--even on

a fly-hook--have been caught and securely held by his picture of the

delights of the gentle craft and his easy, leisurely transcript of his

own simple, peaceable, loving, and amusing character." When, on the

outbreak of the civil war, he retired from business as milliner for

men in London, he went to a place in the country which he had bought,

but we are told that he spent most of his time "in the families of

the eminent clergymen of England, of whom he was much beloved." He

married twice, both wives being of distinguished clerical connection,

the second, Anne Ken, sister of Thomas Ken, afterwards Bishop of Bath

and Wells. Of Thomas Ken we shall have something in particular to

say presently. As we strolled, after supper, along the banks of the

Itchen, from whose clear and grassy waters Walton himself had drawn so

many fish, it was interesting to come upon anglers plying his beloved

vocation. By the way, long before the time of Walton, there were

people at Winchester who were fond of fish, and oysters, too. We read

that, before the Reformation, the monks of Netley Abbey, twelve miles

distant, were wont to keep their brethren at Winchester supplied during

Lent with oysters from Southampton Water, they in return receiving

forty-two flagons of ale weekly.

Enough has been said above to show that no church in Great Britain,

outside of London, is richer in monuments than Winchester Cathedral.

It has also the distinction of great size, being 556 feet long,

the longest nave in England. But the exterior is heavy, without a

suggestion of the symmetry and grace of Salisbury.

[Sidenote: Wit in Winchester College.]

The other "lion" of Winchester, also, has a very uninviting and even

forbidding exterior. This is the ancient College, a school for boys,

where Alfred himself is said to have been educated, though William of

Wykeham refounded it in 1382. The front of it looks like a prison,

but within the quadrangles, and stretching far back to the river, are

lovely grounds covered with grass as green and smooth as a velvet

carpet. The best thing I saw here was the following inscription on the

walls of a school-room, accompanied by the painted emblems which I

mention below in brackets:

_Aut disce._ [A mitre and crosier, as the expected rewards of

learning.]

_Aut discede._ [An inkhorn and sword, the emblems of the civil and

military professions.]

_Manet sors tertia caedi._ [A rod.]

Which may be freely translated, "Either learn, or depart hence, or

remain and be chastised," though the pithy, alliterative rendering in

vogue among the boys is better, "Work, or walk, or be whopped" (_h_

silent in the last word). American boys would probably have rendered

it, "Learn, or leave, or be licked."

The school has revenues of nearly $100,000 per annum. There are 420

pupils. A number of them were having their supper as we passed through

the dining-hall, eating from square beech-wood trenchers instead of

plates, talking in shrill tones, and nudging and pushing each other

just like American boys, unimpressed by the fact that the heavy, narrow

tables from which they were eating were five hundred years old. How

like boys it was to call the water pipe in the quadrangle, at which

they wash their hands and faces, "Moab," and the place where they

blacked their shoes, "Edom," because in Psalm lx. 8, it is said, "Moab

is my wash-pot, I will cast my shoe over Edom."

[Sidenote: A Lovely Churchman.]

As we walked through the ancient cloisters we came upon another

characteristically boyish thing, a name cut on one of the stone pillars

in clear, strong letters--"Tho Ken 1665"--and hardly anything in

Winchester interested me so much as this, for the boy who cut it there,

nearly two hundred and fifty years ago, became afterwards the author

of what we call "the long metre doxology," four lines which have been

sung more frequently than any other four lines in the English language,

and which for generations to come will express the praise of increasing

millions. This doxology was written by Ken as a concluding stanza to

his famous Morning, Evening and Midnight Hymns, the best known of

which, perhaps, is his evening hymn, "Glory to thee, my God, this

night."

But there are other reasons why it was a pleasure to be vividly

reminded of Ken at Winchester. He was a man of singularly modest,

sweet, and lovable disposition. Macaulay says that his character

approached, "as near as human infirmity permits, to the ideal

perfection of Christian virtue." Yet he was no weakling, and on two

notable occasions he showed that, mild and gentle as he was, he was

also firm and fearless.

When the profligate Charles II. was at Winchester, waiting for the

completion of his palace there, he requested Ken, then prebendary at

Winchester, to lend his house temporarily to the notorious Nell Gwynn,

the King's mistress. Ken refused to let such a person have his house.

Charles does not seem to have resented the affront, for he afterwards

made Ken Bishop of Bath and Wells. It is one of the abominations of

the English union of Church and State, that a thoroughly depraved man

like Charles II., if he succeeds to the throne, becomes _ipso facto_

the head of the Church of England. By the way, the altar books in black

letter in Winchester Cathedral were presented to the church by this

same graceless Charles II. Things get badly mixed under such a system

as that of the Church of England.

[Sidenote: Ken's Defiance of James II.]

The second occasion on which Ken showed that, notwithstanding the

infelicities of the national church, she does have men who will stand

for God against the King when necessity arises, was when James II.,

without calling Parliament, issued what he called a declaration for

liberty of conscience, the real aim of which was to put England again

under the yoke of Romanism, and ordered that this declaration should

be read in every cathedral and church in the kingdom. Ken and six

other bishops refused, and they were arrested, and committed to the

Tower of London. Instantly a blaze of popular indignation burst forth.

Enormous crowds assembled to see the seven bishops embark, the shore

was covered with crowds of prostrate spectators, who asked their

benediction, as did also the very soldiers sent to arrest them. The

bishops bore themselves well throughout, and, a few days after, when

they were tried in Westminster Hall, and the verdict "Not guilty" was

brought in, there was a tumultuous outburst of joy. Thus Ken bore his

bold and manly part in the revolution, which finally swept the Stuarts

from the throne, and delivered England, for the time, from the menace

of Romish domination.

Winchester, then, with her ancient cathedral and her ancient school,

with her Alfred the Great, her Izaak Walton, and her Thomas Ken, with

her wealth of heroic, and gentle and saintly memories, has given us two

of the most profitable days of our sojourn in Southern England.

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