GIBRALTAR (CONTINUED)--DEPARTURE FOR HOME--CHARITY, REAL CHARITY--A
DEATH AND FUNERAL--THE BAY OF BISCAY AGAIN--AT HOME: LEISURE NO
PLEASURE--A REVIEW.
Towards the conclusion of my visit to Gibraltar, a marriage was
solemnized between an officer commanding a frigate lying off the New
Mole and a young lady of very prepossessing appearance who came from
England, accompanied by her mother and some other relatives. The
ceremony was performed at the Protestant Church, about eleven o'clock in
the forenoon, and an arrangement had been made that the wedding dejeuner
should take place on board the vessel, after which the happy couple were
to proceed by boat to Algesiras to spend the honeymoon. The frigate was
directly in view of Mr. Costello's residence, and with the help of a
binocular glass I could see persons on deck as plainly as if I stood
amongst them. As soon as the bridegroom came ashore to proceed to the
church, several boats came from the stairs at the Ragged Staff,
conveying a profuse supply of evergreens and flowers. These were quickly
taken aloft by the crew who swarmed up, and in a few minutes the masts,
yards, and rigging were festooned with floral decorations, amongst which
the peculiarly appropriate nuptial ornament, "a wreath of orange
blossoms," was conspicuously displayed on each bow and quarter. The
other ships were dressed in the usual manner, but the frigate appeared
pre-eminently beautiful. The reception of the bride and bridegroom and
their cortege was most enthusiastic. I was assured by several naval
officers that the display, which excited the unqualified admiration of
all who witnessed it, was a spontaneous manifestation on the part of the
crew of their respect and affection for their captain. I regret that I
do not recollect his name, but the feeling evinced towards him was not
the only instance that came under my observation indicative of great
attachment on the part of British sailors for their commanders.
To the respectable residents of Gibraltar, whether official or
commercial, the place affords many advantages. The comforts attainable
in the cities of the United Kingdom can be there procured on terms in
many respects more moderate, and in none, as far as I could learn,
seriously greater, whilst many articles of domestic requirement, are
vastly cheaper, owing to their importation not being subjected to
Customs' duties. The prices of shoes, boots, and hats appeared to me to
be lower than those I should have to pay in Dublin for a similar
description and quality of goods. Woollen, linen, and cotton fabrics are
somewhat dearer than here, and tables, chairs, and bedsteads, unless
made of very old and well-seasoned wood, shrink and shrivel in the
sultry time, and require repairs involving some outlay. The expenses
incident to soft goods and furniture are not much complained of, and do
not appear to be considered serious inconveniences.
Respectable residents or visitors can have, at a cost of twenty
shillings yearly, access to a library, from which useful information and
amusement may be extensively derived. The building is of elegant
structure, of extensive dimensions, and its furniture unites beauty of
appearance with utility and comfort. It is supplied with the principal
newspapers and periodical publications of the civilized world, and its
shelves contain about twenty thousand volumes, most conveniently
arranged, and comprising the choicest specimens of ancient and modern
literature. No person should visit Gibraltar, even during the time
required for coaling a steamer, without taking a glance or two at the
library and from its windows, for some of them command a splendid view
of the bay and of a considerable portion of the fortress, whilst many
others are immediately over parterres of the choicest and most luxuriant
floral productions.
Having enumerated almost every agreeable or advantageous circumstance
that I can recollect respecting the time I spent in Gibraltar, I shall
proceed to notice the only alloys to the varied pleasures which I
experienced there. From the middle of June to the beginning of
September the heat is extremely oppressive, and when the wind is
easterly, as it frequently was during my sojourn, its effect is
extremely debilitating to the body and depressing to the mind. During
the sultry months no rain ever falls, and, nevertheless, the wind coming
from the Levant is surcharged with moisture. Clothes hung out to dry
under a scorching sun continue as damp as when first exposed, or perhaps
become more so. Fish or flesh meat killed in the morning will not be
eatable in seven or eight hours. Wine bottled, marmalade or jams made,
turn acid very soon. The slightest exertion becomes a labour, and
persons are less censurable for inattention to the comforts of others as
they lapse into indifference to their own requirements. A long
continuance of an east wind would probably prove disastrously unhealthy,
but it seldom lasts long, and generally, after a couple of days or a few
hours, it is succeeded by a westerly breeze from the broad Atlantic,
cool, dry, and invigorating.
This impregnable fortress, which may defy all human efforts for its
forcible reduction, is not proof against the invasion of countless small
but most sanguinary creatures that, if they could audibly express their
universal craving, would make an unvaried and continuous demand of
blood. The mosquitoes appear early in June, and are a most persistent
nuisance during the sultry months. It is no slight advantage to Great
Britain and Ireland to be free from their annoyance. I suffered greatly
from their envenomed bites, and although sex or age appears to be
utterly disregarded in their insatiate and incessant attacks, they are
reputed to accord a preference to the blood of a stranger. The slightest
aperture in the curtains of my bed resulted in numerous punctures being
made in the skin of my face and hands. My friend Costello slept in an
uncurtained bed, and was not attacked by the mosquitoes. He told me
that, after he had resided in Gibraltar for a couple of years, they
ceased to annoy him. Dr. Williams described them as "the most
affectionate little creatures in the world, for if you killed one, some
hundreds would come to his funeral."
During the months of May and June in 1861, I heard more cannon shots
than ever reached my ears in the rest of my existence. The artillery
were practising daily for several hours at floating targets in the bay,
and the noise was certainly far from agreeable to me. In the expression
of a wish for more quietude, I met no sympathy from those who had
resided in Gibraltar for a year or two, and who had become accustomed to
the firing, and perhaps, if I spent a few months more in the fortress my
nerves would have become more obtuse. The convict depot, outside the
line wall, was very near to the battery principally used for practice,
and I have seen the premises occupied by the superintendent completely
clouded with smoke, whilst his walls reverberated the repeated
discharges of heavy cannon. He directed my attention to the domestic
fowl, of which he had a considerable number, and to the poultry of
various kinds having become quite accustomed and apparently reconciled
to the appalling sounds, and to the fire and smoke copiously emitted in
their proximity.
I was told, in casual conversations with artillery officers, that
one-third of the ammunition contained in the magazines of Gibraltar was
expended yearly, and that the deficiency was supplied by an equal
quantity from home. I was informed that gunpowder becomes deteriorated
if kept beyond three years, and that the most advantageous use of the
old stock was to expend it in artillery practice. Some of the floating
targets were stated to be eight hundred yards, and others six hundred,
from the battery. I saw shells used very frequently, and was informed
that the practice was not efficient or satisfactory if at least
one-third of the shells did not explode directly over the target. The
bay is occasionally visited by large shoals of porpoises, and in calm
weather they frolic in great numbers on the surface of the water. On a
day in June, 1861, they were extremely abundant, and no where more so
than close to the floating targets. Every shell discharged, killed or
disabled some of them without frightening the others or dissolving their
"aggregate meeting." Some tons of porpoises were collected after the
firing ceased, and subjected, I believe, to some process for the
extraction of oil. I was a spectator, for about two hours, of the scene
I have endeavoured to describe, and it impressed me with an awful
appreciation of our artillery as applicable to actual warfare.
DEPARTURE FOR HOME.
Early in the month of September I mentioned, in a conversation with the
naval superintendent, my intention to leave Gibraltar for England by the
first homeward-bound steamer of the Peninsular and Oriental Company that
arrived. He observed that the "St. Jean d'Acre," the flag-ship of
Admiral Elliot, was to sail for Plymouth on the 8th or 9th, and that if
I chose to go in her he would ask the Admiral to give me a passage. To
this most friendly proposal I thankfully acceded, and received, through
Captain Warden, an invitation from the Admiral, and an intimation that a
cot should be slung up for me in his saloon. At the appointed time, I
went on board, and met with a most gratifying reception from the Admiral
and the other officers. I was apprised that the ship was to call at
Tangier, and also at Cadiz, which might cause a delay of some hours at
each place. We went very quickly to Tangier, where a communication was
received for the British ambassador at Madrid, to be transmitted to him
from Cadiz. On arriving off the latter place, the Admiral landed and
came back in about an hour to have his personal luggage packed up, to
put his sailing captain in full command of the vessel, and then to
proceed himself to Madrid as speedily as possible, in accordance with a
telegraphic message from our ambassador. All requisite arrangements were
very quickly completed; but before he left the ship he addressed the
officers and crew, expressing briefly but strongly his regret at parting
from those who had evinced, whilst under his command, the greatest
efficiency in the discharge of their duties, accompanied by numerous
manifestations of respect and attachment, of which he felt extremely
proud, and should never be forgetful. As soon as his barge pulled off,
the crew, of their own accord, rapidly manned the yards, and cheered him
most enthusiastically until he entered the port and was no longer in
sight. It was a most affectionate farewell, and must have been
thoroughly disinterested, for the ship was going home to be paid off,
and, consequently, her officers and crew would be dispersed amongst the
general body of the naval service. Immediately after we left Cadiz, the
midshipmen came into the saloon to receive lessons from the naval
instructor; and as each of them entered he saluted me with a semblance
of the utmost respect and humility, as "Admiral Porter." When I
disclaimed the rank and authority ascribed to me by the middies, one of
them replied, that when the admiral had gone away, leaving me in full
possession of his cabin, they had agreed to make me an admiral, at all
events until we reached Plymouth; and he begged leave to suggest that
the first exercise of my authority ought to be an order to the
instructor to give them a holiday or two. I laughed heartily at the
young scamp's suggestion, and the lessons commenced. The instructor
reprimanded one of his pupils for not having previously studied some
pages assigned to him to learn, saying, "You will never attain rank in
the navy if you continue so ignorant of Navigation," The middy replied,
pointing to me, "The admiral who is sitting there is of very high rank,
and I could safely swear that I know as much about navigation as he
does."
CHARITY; REAL CHARITY.
A woman and two children had been sent on board the "St. Jean d'Acre" at
Gibraltar to be taken to England. Her name was Crompton, and she was the
widow of a carpenter who had been accidentally killed at the New Mole
two or three months previous to our departure. Of the children, both
boys, one was still unweaned, and the poor mother and her offspring
appeared to be miserably destitute. Their scanty clothing was squalid
and ragged, and her health had been seriously impaired. She said that
her native place was in Durham, and that on arriving at Plymouth she
should apply to be transmitted home by the parochial authorities. We
were not forty-eight hours at sea before she and her infants were
comfortably and neatly clad, the outer garments being made of blue
serge, and the others of checkered stuff. She and her elder boy were
furnished with hats and boots, fitting perfectly, the uppers of the
latter being made of canvas darkly varnished. I was greatly surprised at
the skill displayed in attiring the poor creatures, for the needlework
was faultless. The younger child was made the favorite plaything of the
crew, who seemed delighted to pet and nurse him. When our voyage was
completed, a subscription amongst the officers, seamen, and marines
provided her with twenty-two pounds, to which I added half a sovereign.
The boatswain was the principal collector for the poor widow, whom he
described in nautical phraseology, to be "at dead low water."
A DEATH AND FUNERAL.
The progress of the "St. Jean d'Acre" did not appear to me to be very
speedy after our departure from Cadiz until we arrived off Cape St.
Vincent. The vessel was propelled solely by the steam-screw. She was
large and heavy, and the weather was quite calm, so that sails were
useless. I did not regret the delay, for I could not be in more
agreeable society, and I never experienced any tendency whatever to
sea-sickness. However, just as we sighted St. Vincent, a strong and very
favorable breeze sprung up, and the sails were ordered to be set. Whilst
all hands were engaged aloft, I was sitting on the quarter-deck,
enjoying the novelty of the scene before me, and admiring the celerity
with which the work was accomplished. The men were beginning to descend,
when a poor fellow named Parkes dropped from a great height. I think he
fell from what is termed the mizen-topsail-yard, and he came down very
close to me. I instantly took him under the armpits and drew him
lengthways on his back. He muttered, "Too much tobacco," and died
instantly. It appeared that he had been cautioned by the medical
officers against the excessive chewing of tobacco, but his neglect of
the warning, and a persistent indulgence in the unwholesome mastication,
produced a very fatal fall. In the evening of the following day, his
body was committed to the deep. It was sewn in his hammock, in which a
large cannon ball was also enclosed. The band played some mournful music
whilst the corpse was conveyed to a grating, on which it was laid,
covered with the British flag. The officers were in full uniform, and
all the men not actually engaged in navigating the ship came on deck.
The chaplain read the Burial Service of the Church of England,
substituting "the deep" for "the ground," and the grating and flag were
then released from their horizontal position, and the body, slipping
from between them, sank into the ocean. The ceremony was extremely
solemn and respectful; but as soon as it concluded, the band went down
between decks and commenced playing very lively tunes, and the crew
betook themselves to dancing and other pastimes incident to an hour of
merry "sky-larking." I believe that in the navy and army it is deemed
desirable to discourage the continuance, after discharging the last
duties to the deceased sailor or soldier, of gloomy thoughts or dismal
recollections.
THE BAY OF BISCAY AGAIN.
When we arrived in the Bay of Biscay, it was in a state very unlike that
which I endeavoured to describe in reference to my passage through it on
my voyage to Gibraltar. It then fully realised the Byronic line--
"And ocean slumber'd like an unwean'd child;"
but when I viewed it from the deck of the homeward-bound war-steamer,
its surface was free from foam, and perfectly glassy, but the smooth,
unbroken water exhibited stupendous undulations. We had a steady breeze
on our quarter, filling every sail, and directing the roll of the sea
completely with us, and our decks were quite dry. From the summit of a
mountain wave, we slided noiselessly down, and were immediately raised
again to a great but transient elevation. In my former passage across
the bay, I was charmed by its unusual placidity, and on my return I was
struck with admiration of its grand appearance, and highly gratified by
the safe and very quick run that we accomplished.
We anchored in Plymouth harbour late in the evening of the 16th of
September, and I landed on the following morning, and remained at a
hotel for two days, awaiting the arrival of the steamer on her way from
London to Dublin. During my short stay, I was able to go through
Plymouth, Devonport, and their environs, which, whilst they display
natural beauties of no ordinary character, afford to a stranger, in
their public establishments, many objects which cannot fail to excite
admiration. Eventually, I reached Dublin on the 21st, and received the
affectionate congratulations of my family on my return to them in
perfect health. On the day after my arrival, my youngest child
designated me "the sweetest papa in the world." The appellation was
undoubtedly suggested by the circumstance, that I had brought home 100
lbs. of orange marmalade, 70 lbs. of preserved nectarines, 70 lbs. of
apricot jam, and six large Murcian melons. The excellence of my sweets
was fully proved by the rapidity of their consumption. I fetched from
Gibraltar a snake and a green lizard, which I sent to the Zoological
Gardens; but I believe they did not long survive their transportation
from the South of Spain to our cold and humid climate.
AT HOME--LEISURE NO PLEASURE.
After my return from Gibraltar, I found the tenor of my life in Dublin
forming the greatest contrast to the twenty years during which I had
been engaged in magisterial duties of a multifarious nature, extending
from the cognizance of lapses from sobriety or neglect of sweeping a
footway, to authorising a search for concealed pikes or firearms, or
taking informations and issuing warrants for treason-felony. I regarded
my release from any further attendance at the place in Exchange-court,
dignified by the appellation of the Head-Office, as a most agreeable and
healthful change; but I often regretted the cessation of my functions at
the branch-court in Kingstown, where I enjoyed the ventilation of a pure
atmosphere through cleanly and elevated premises, whilst the bench which
I occupied commanded a view of almost the entire Bay of Dublin. I also
derived from my official position a free passage, by first-class
carriage, on the Dublin and Kingstown Railway, and occasionally received
passes on the Great Southern and Western Line, enabling me to visit Cork
or Killarney. All these advantages terminated on my retirement. Persons
sometimes came to my house, supposing that I still had sufficient
authority to take declarations or attest signatures; and when informed
that my functions had ceased, expressed their disappointment at finding
that I was "no longer of any use." My next-door neighbour was a Rev. Dr.
Browne; and a gentleman who had some business with him, but did not
exactly know his residence, pointed out my door to a cabman, and desired
him to "try there." Cabby replied, "No, sir, that is where Porter, the
_decayed magistrate_, lives." I do not believe, however, that in the use
of such an expression any wilful disrespect was intended. I have often
heard owners and drivers of public vehicles declare that they regretted
my retirement.
The Italians have a very current phrase,[19] which attaches delight to
the total absence of employment. I never could appreciate idleness as
pleasurable; and I believe that numerous instances of mental aberration
have originated in the want of occupation. I am disposed to insert in
these pages a few productions of my first year of unrelished leisure. If
their perusal is pleasing to a reader, they require no apology; and if
they are considered unworthy of attention, they may serve as a warning
to others against being induced to waste their time in similar attempts.
A REVIEW.
A gentleman of literary tendencies, and for whom I had a great personal
regard, mentioned to a small party of friends his intention to publish a
semi-monthly periodical in Dublin, under the title of "The Irish
Review." I stated that whilst wishing the utmost success to his
undertaking, my hopes were extremely slender, and adduced what I
considered cogent reasons for the opinion expressed. None of the others
coincided with me, and one of them jocularly remarked that a penance
should be imposed on me by requiring me to write the preface. With this
proposition the others fully agreed, and although I steadfastly declined
to comply with their requisition, I expressed a willingness to attempt a
contribution of a prefatory nature, the topics and composition being
completely left to my own discretion, or perhaps I should say,
indiscretion. The production was sent and published, and although the
periodical was not ultimately successful, a better result may possibly
attend the next attempt to establish an enlightened and impartial organ
of literary criticism in the Irish metropolis. My contribution was
headed--
AN IRISH REVIEW.
When Albion, proud Albion, heard threats of invasion,
Her spirit and energy met the occasion;
She call'd on her sons, and they readily back'd her,
And perhaps for that reason, no foes have attack'd her.
Of Ireland, it seems, there were doubtings and fears;
From us they declined to demand volunteers;
They thought that if bay'nets and muskets we got,
We'd exchange with each other a thrust or a shot.
They thought Tipperary could ne'er meet Tyrone,
And part in whole skin without any sore bone,
That lads from old Galway or Southern Tralee;
With Derry's apprentices might disagree.
We've no volunteers, and we'll not have a fight,
Our colors are peaceful, they're plain black and white;
But without volunteers in green, scarlet, or blue,
We're determined on having AN IRISH REVIEW.
A review--where a mere moral force we demand,
A review--at which Intellect takes the command,
A review--where each Science delights to combine,
A review--where Wit's facings appear in the line.
A review--where a _press_ procures _willing_ recruits,
A review--where at Folly the satirist shoots;
At poor _Private_ Folly no aim is directed,
But _General_ Folly's the mark that's selected.
To _Gen'ral_ Goodhumor the duty's assigned
Of keeping the ground, and the public shall find
He'll drive away Rancor and Prejudice, too,
Till _Gen'ral_ Applause greets THE IRISH REVIEW.
LINES IN AN ALBUM.
I wrote at the request of my beloved and truly lamented son, Austin
Duggan Porter, the following lines in his Album:--
My youthful years have pass'd away,
My step hath lost its lightness,
And scanty locks, once brown, then gray,
Now show unvaried whiteness.
My failing eyes can see but few
Of early friends remaining,
Yet have I many reasons true
To keep me from complaining.
To be a blessing to mine age,
I see mine offspring striving;
And even in this little page
My boyhood seems reviving.
I feel that they who bear my name
My early tastes inherit,
And their pursuits are just the same
As pleased my youthful spirit.
FOOTNOTE:
[19] Dolce far niente.