68. Of the crocodile the nature is as follows:—during the four most

wintry months this creature eats nothing: she has four feet and is an

animal belonging to the land and the water both; for she produces and

hatches eggs on the land, and the most part of the day she remains upon

dry land, but the whole of the night in the river, for the water in

truth is warmer than the unclouded open air and the dew. Of all the

mortal creatures of which we have knowledge this grows to the greatest

bulk from the smallest beginning; for the eggs which she produces are

not much larger than those of geese and the newly-hatched young one

is in proportion to the egg, but as he grows he becomes as much as

seventeen cubits long and sometimes yet larger. He has eyes like those

of a pig and teeth large and tusky, in proportion to the size of his

body; but unlike all other beasts he grows no tongue, neither does he

move his lower jaw, but brings the upper jaw towards the lower, being

in this too unlike all other beasts. He has moreover strong claws and a

scaly hide upon his back which cannot be pierced; and he is blind in the

water, but in the air he is of very keen sight. Since he has his living

in the water he keeps his mouth all full within of leeches; and whereas

all other birds and beasts fly from him, the trochilus is a creature

which is at peace with him, seeing that from her he receives benefit;

for the crocodile having come out of the water to the land and then

having opened his mouth (this he is wont to do generally towards the

West Wind), the trochilus upon that enters into his mouth and swallows

down the leeches, and he being benefited is pleased and does no harm to

the trochilus.

69. Now for some of the Egyptians the crocodiles are sacred animals, and

for others not so, but they treat them on the contrary as enemies: those

however who dwell about Thebes and about the lake of Moiris hold them

to be most sacred, and each of these two peoples keeps one crocodile

selected from the whole number, which has been trained to tameness, and

they put hanging ornaments of molten stone and of gold into the ears

of these and anklets round the front feet, and they give them food

appointed and victims of sacrifices and treat them as well as possible

while they live, and after they are dead they bury them in sacred tombs,

embalming them: but those who dwell about the city of Elephantine even

eat them, not holding them to be sacred. They are called not crocodiles

but champsai, and the Ionians gave them the name of crocodile, comparing

their form to that of the crocodiles (lizards) which appear in their

country in the stone walls.

70. There are many ways in use of catching them and of various kinds: I

shall describe that which to me seems the most worthy of being told. A

man puts the back of a pig upon a hook as bait, and lets it go into the

middle of the river, while he himself upon the bank of the river has

a young live pig, which he beats; and the crocodile hearing its cries

makes for the direction of the sound, and when he finds the pig's back

he swallows it down: then they pull, and when he is drawn out to land,

first of all the hunter forthwith plasters up his eyes with mud, and

having so done he very easily gets the mastery of him, but if he does

not do so he has much trouble.

71. The river-horse is sacred in the district of Papremis, but for the

other Egyptians he is not sacred; and this is the appearance which he

presents: he is four-footed, cloven-hoofed like an ox, 66 flat-nosed,

with a mane like a horse and showing teeth like tusks, with a tail and

voice like a horse, and in size as large as the largest ox; and his hide

is so exceedingly thick that when it has been dried shafts of javelins

are made of it.

72. There are moreover otters in the river, which they consider to be

sacred; and of fish also they esteem that which is called the lepidotos

to be sacred, and also the eel; and these they say are sacred to the

Nile: and of birds the fox-goose.

73. There is also another sacred bird called the phoenix which I did

not myself see except in painting, for in truth he comes to them very

rarely, at intervals, as the people of Heliopolis say, of five hundred

years; and these say that he comes regularly when his father dies; and

if he be like the painting, he is of this size and nature, that is to

say, some of his feathers are of gold colour and others red, and in

outline and size he is as nearly as possible like an eagle. This bird

they say (but I cannot believe the story) contrives as follows:—setting

forth from Arabia he conveys his father, they say, to the temple of the

Sun (Helios) plastered up in myrrh, and buries him in the temple of the

Sun; and he conveys him thus:—he forms first an egg of myrrh as large as

he is able to carry, and then he makes trial of carrying it, and when he

has made trial sufficiently, then he hollows out the egg and places his

father within it and plasters over with other myrrh that part of the egg

where he hollowed it out to put his father in, and when his father is

laid in it, it proves (they say) to be of the same weight as it was;

and after he has plastered it up, he conveys the whole to Egypt to the

temple of the Sun. Thus they say that this bird does.

74. There are also about Thebes sacred serpents, not at all harmful to

men, which are small in size and have two horns growing from the top of

the head: these they bury when they die in the temple of Zeus, for to

this god they say that they are sacred.

75. There is a region moreover in Arabia, situated nearly over against

the city of Buto, to which place I came to inquire about the winged

serpents: and when I came thither I saw bones of serpents and spines in

quantity so great that it is impossible to make report of the number,

and there were heaps of spines, some heaps large and others less large

and others smaller still than these, and these heaps were many in

number. This region in which the spines are scattered upon the ground

is of the nature of an entrance from a narrow mountain pass to a great

plain, which plain adjoins the plain of Egypt; and the story goes that

at the beginning of spring winged serpents from Arabia fly towards

Egypt, and the birds called ibises meet them at the entrance to this

country and do not suffer the serpents to go by but kill them. On

account of this deed it is (say the Arabians) that the ibis has come to

be greatly honoured by the Egyptians, and the Egyptians also agree that

it is for this reason that they honour these birds.

76. The outward form of the ibis is this:—it is a deep black all over,

and has legs like those of a crane and a very curved beak, and in size

it is about equal to a rail: this is the appearance of the black kind

which fight with the serpents, but of those which most crowd round men's

feet (for there are two several kinds of ibises) the head is bare and

also the whole of the throat, and it is white in feathering except the

head and neck and the extremities of the wings and the rump (in all

these parts of which I have spoken it is a deep black), while in legs

and in the form of the head it resembles the other. As for the serpent

its form is like that of the watersnake; and it has wings not feathered

but most nearly resembling the wings of the bat. Let so much suffice as

has been said now concerning sacred animals.

77. Of the Egyptians themselves, those who dwell in the part of Egypt

which is sown for crops 67 practise memory more than any other men and

are the most learned in history by far of all those of whom I have had

experience: and their manner of life is as follows:—For three successive

days in each month they purge, hunting after health with emetics and

clysters, and they think that all the diseases which exist are produced

in men by the food on which they live; for the Egyptians are from other

causes also the most healthy of all men next after the Libyans (in my

opinion on account of the seasons, because the seasons do not change,

for by the changes of things generally, and especially of the seasons,

diseases are most apt to be produced in men), and as to their diet, it

is as follows:—they eat bread, making loaves of maize, which they call

kyllestis, and they use habitually a wine made out of barley, for vines

they have not in their land. Of their fish some they dry in the sun and

then eat them without cooking, others they eat cured in brine. Of birds

they eat quails and ducks and small birds without cooking, after first

curing them; and everything else which they have belonging to the

class of birds or fishes, except such as have been set apart by them as

sacred, they eat roasted or boiled.

78. In the entertainments of the rich among them, when they have

finished eating, a man bears round a wooden figure of a dead body in a

coffin, made as like the reality as may be both by painting and carving,

and measuring about a cubit or two cubits each way; 68 and this he shows

to each of those who are drinking together, saying: "When thou lookest

upon this, drink and be merry, for thou shalt be such as this when thou

art dead." Thus they do at their carousals.

79. The customs which they practise are derived from their fathers and

they do not acquire others in addition; but besides other customary

things among them which are worthy of mention, they have one song, 6801

that of Linos, the same who is sung of both in Phenicia and in Cyprus

and elsewhere, having however a name different according to the various

nations. This song agrees exactly with that which the Hellenes sing

calling on the name of Linos, 69 so that besides many other things

about which I wonder among those matters which concern Egypt, I wonder

especially about this, namely whence they got the song of Linos. 70 It

is evident however that they have sung this song from immemorial time,

and in the Egyptian tongue Linos is called Maneros. The Egyptians told

me that he was the only son of him who first became king of Egypt, and

that he died before his time and was honoured with these lamentations by

the Egyptians, and that this was their first and only song.

80. In another respect the Egyptians are in agreement with some of the

Hellenes, namely with the Lacedemonians, but not with the rest, that is

to say, the younger of them when they meet the elder give way and move

out of the path, and when their elders approach they rise out of their

seat. In this which follows however they are not in agreement with any

of the Hellenes,—instead of addressing one another in the roads they do

reverence, lowering their hand down to their knee.

81. They wear tunics of linen about their legs with fringes, which they

call calasiris; above these they have garments of white wool thrown

over: woollen garments however are not taken into the temples, nor are

they buried with them, for this is not permitted by religion. In these

points they are in agreement with the observances called Orphic and

Bacchic (which are really Egyptian), 71 and also with those of the

Pythagoreans, for one who takes part in these mysteries is also

forbidden by religious rule to be buried in woollen garments; and about

this there is a sacred story told.

82. Besides these things the Egyptians have found out also to what god

each month and each day belongs, and what fortunes a man will meet with

who is born on any particular day, and how he will die, and what kind

of a man he will be: and these inventions were taken up by those of the

Hellenes who occupied themselves about poesy. Portents too have been

found out by them more than by all other men besides; for when a portent

has happened, they observe and write down the event which comes of it,

and if ever afterwards anything resembling this happens, they believe

that the event which comes of it will be similar.

83. Their divination is ordered thus:—the art is assigned not to any

man, but to certain of the gods, for there are in their land Oracles of

Heracles, of Apollo, of Athene, of Artemis, of Ares, and of Zeus, and

moreover that which they hold most in honour of all, namely the Oracle

of Leto which is in the city of Buto. The manner of divination however

is not yet established among them according to the same fashion

everywhere, but is different in different places.

84. The art of medicine among them is distributed thus:—each physician

is a physician of one disease and of no more; and the whole country is

full of physicians, for some profess themselves to be physicians of the

eyes, others of the head, others of the teeth, others of the affections

of the stomach, and others of the more obscure ailments.

85. Their fashions of mourning and of burial are these:—Whenever any

household has lost a man who is of any regard amongst them, the whole

number of women of that house forthwith plaster over their heads or even

their faces with mud. Then leaving the corpse within the house they go

themselves to and fro about the city and beat themselves, with their

garments bound up by a girdle 72 and their breasts exposed, and with

them go all the women who are related to the dead man, and on the other

side the men beat themselves, they too having their garments bound up by

a girdle; and when they have done this, they then convey the body to the

embalming.

86. In this occupation certain persons employ themselves regularly and

inherit this as a craft. These, whenever a corpse is conveyed to them,

show to those who brought it wooden models of corpses made like reality

by painting, and the best of the ways of embalming they say is that of

him whose name I think it impiety to mention when speaking of a matter

of such a kind; 73 the second which they show is less good than this and

also less expensive; and the third is the least expensive of all. Having

told them about this, they inquire of them in which way they desire the

corpse of their friend to be prepared. Then they after they have agreed

for a certain price depart out of the way, and the others being left

behind in the buildings embalm according to the best of these ways

thus:—First with a crooked iron tool they draw out the brain through the

nostrils, extracting it partly thus and partly by pouring in drugs; and

after this with a sharp stone of Ethiopia they make a cut along the side

and take out the whole contents of the belly, and when they have cleared

out the cavity and cleansed it with palm-wine they cleanse it again with

spices pounded up: then they fill the belly with pure myrrh pounded

up and with cassia and other spices except frankincense, and sew it

together again. Having so done they keep it for embalming covered up

in natron for seventy days, but for a longer time than this it is not

permitted to embalm it; and when the seventy days are past, they wash

the corpse and roll its whole body up in fine linen 74 cut into bands,

smearing these beneath with gum, 75 which the Egyptians use generally

instead of glue. Then the kinsfolk receive it from them and have a

wooden figure made in the shape of a man, and when they have had this

made they enclose the corpse, and having shut it up within, they store

it then in a sepulchral chamber, setting it to stand upright against the

wall.

87. Thus they deal with the corpses which are prepared in the most

costly way; but for those who desire the middle way and wish to avoid

great cost they prepare the corpse as follows:—having filled their

syringes with the oil which is got from cedar-wood, with this they

forthwith fill the belly of the corpse, and this they do without having

either cut it open or taken out the bowels, but they inject the oil by

the breech, and having stopped the drench from returning back they keep

it then the appointed number of days for embalming, and on the last

of the days they let the cedar oil come out from the belly, which they

before put in; and it has such power that it brings out with it the

bowels and interior organs of the body dissolved; and the natron

dissolves the flesh, so that there is left of the corpse only the skin

and the bones. When they have done this they give back the corpse at

once in that condition without working upon it any more.

88. The third kind of embalming, by which are prepared the bodies of

those who have less means, is as follows:—they cleanse out the belly

with a purge and then keep the body for embalming during the seventy

days, and at once after that they give it back to the bringers to carry

away.

89. The wives of men of rank when they die are not given at once to be

embalmed, nor such women as are very beautiful or of greater regard

than others, but on the third or fourth day after their death (and

not before) they are delivered to the embalmers. They do so about this

matter in order that the embalmers may not abuse their women, for they

say that one of them was taken once doing so to the corpse of a woman

lately dead, and his fellow-craftsman gave information.

90. Whenever any one, either of the Egyptians themselves or of

strangers, is found to have been carried off by a crocodile or brought

to his death by the river itself, the people of any city by which he may

have been cast up on land must embalm him and lay him out in the fairest

way they can and bury him in a sacred burial-place, nor may any of his

relations or friends besides touch him, but the priests of the Nile

themselves handle the corpse and bury it as that of one who was

something more than man.

91. Hellenic usages they will by no means follow, and to speak generally

they follow those of no other men whatever. This rule is observed by

most of the Egyptians; but there is a large city named Chemmis in the

Theban district near Neapolis, and in this city there is a temple of

Perseus the son of Danae which is of a square shape, and round it grow

date-palms: the gateway of the temple is built of stone and of very

great size, and at the entrance of it stand two great statues of stone.

Within this enclosure is a temple-house 76 and in it stands an image

of Perseus. These people of Chemmis say that Perseus is wont often to

appear in their land and often within the temple, and that a sandal

which has been worn by him is found sometimes, being in length two

cubits, and whenever this appears all Egypt prospers. This they say, and

they do in honour of Perseus after Hellenic fashion thus,—they hold an

athletic contest, which includes the whole list of games, and they offer

in prizes cattle and cloaks and skins: and when I inquired why to them

alone Perseus was wont to appear, and wherefore they were separated from

all the other Egyptians in that they held an athletic contest, they said

that Perseus had been born of their city, for Danaos and Lynkeus were

men of Chemmis and had sailed to Hellas, and from them they traced a

descent and came down to Perseus: and they told me that he had come to

Egypt for the reason which the Hellenes also say, namely to bring from

Libya the Gorgon's head, and had then visited them also and recognised

all his kinsfolk, and they said that he had well learnt the name of

Chemmis before he came to Egypt, since he had heard it from his mother,

and that they celebrated an athletic contest for him by his own command.

92. All these are customs practised by the Egyptians who dwell above the

fens: and those who are settled in the fen-land have the same customs

for the most part as the other Egyptians, both in other matters and also

in that they live each with one wife only, as do the Hellenes; but for

economy in respect of food they have invented these things besides:—when

the river has become full and the plains have been flooded, there grow

in the water great numbers of lilies, which the Egyptians call lotos;

these they cut with a sickle and dry in the sun, and then they pound

that which grows in the middle of the lotos and which is like the head

of a poppy, and they make of it loaves baked with fire. The root also

of this lotos is edible and has a rather sweet taste: 77 it is round

in shape and about the size of an apple. There are other lilies too, in

flower resembling roses, which also grow in the river, and from them the

fruit is produced in a separate vessel springing from the root by the

side of the plant itself, and very nearly resembles a wasp's comb:

in this there grow edible seeds in great numbers of the size of an

olive-stone, and they are eaten either fresh 78 or dried. Besides this

they pull up from the fens the papyrus which grows every year, and the

upper parts of it they cut off and turn to other uses, but that which is

left below for about a cubit in length they eat or sell: and those who

desire to have the papyrus at its very best bake it in an oven heated

red-hot, and then eat it. Some too of these people live on fish alone,

which they dry in the sun after having caught them and taken out the

entrails, and then when they are dry, they use them for food.

93. Fish which swim in shoals are not much produced in the rivers, but

are bred in the lakes, and they do as follows:—When there comes upon

them the desire to breed, they swim out in shoals towards the sea; and

the males lead the way shedding forth their milt as they go, while the

females, coming after and swallowing it up, from it become impregnated:

and when they have become full of young in the sea they swim up back

again, each shoal to its own haunts. The same however no longer lead the

way as before, but the lead comes now to the females, and they leading

the way in shoals do just as the males did, that is to say they shed

forth their eggs by a few grains at a time, 79 and the males coming

after swallow them up. Now these grains are fish, and from the grains

which survive and are not swallowed, the fish grow which afterwards are

bred up. Now those of the fish which are caught as they swim out to sea

are found to be rubbed on the left side of the head, but those which are

caught as they swim up again are rubbed on the right side. This happens

to them because as they swim down to the sea they keep close to the land

on the left side of the river, and again as they swim up they keep to

the same side, approaching and touching the bank as much as they can,

for fear doubtless of straying from their course by reason of the

stream. When the Nile begins to swell, the hollow places of the land

and the depressions by the side of the river first begin to fill, as the

water soaks through from the river, and so soon as they become full of

water, at once they are all filled with little fishes; and whence

these are in all likelihood produced, I think that I perceive. In the

preceding year, when the Nile goes down, the fish first lay eggs in the

mud and then retire with the last of the retreating waters; and when

the time comes round again, and the water once more comes over the land,

from these eggs forthwith are produced the fishes of which I speak.

94. Thus it is as regards the fish. And for anointing those of the

Egyptians who dwell in the fens use oil from the castor-berry, 80 which

oil the Egyptians call kiki, and thus they do:—they sow along the banks

of the rivers and pools these plants, which in a wild form grow of

themselves in the land of the Hellenes; these are sown in Egypt and

produce berries in great quantity but of an evil smell; and when they

have gathered these, some cut them up and press the oil from them,

others again roast them first and then boil them down and collect that

which runs away from them. The oil is fat and not less suitable for

burning than olive-oil, but it gives forth a disagreeable smell.

95. Against the gnats, which are very abundant, they have contrived as

follows:—those who dwell above the fen-land are helped by the towers, to

which they ascend when they go to rest; for the gnats by reason of the

winds are not able to fly up high: but those who dwell in the fen-land

have contrived another way instead of the towers, and this is it:—every

man of them has got a casting net, with which by day he catches fish,

but in the night he uses it for this purpose, that is to say he puts the

casting-net round about the bed in which he sleeps, and then creeps in

under it and goes to sleep: and the gnats, if he sleeps rolled up in a

garment or a linen sheet, bite through these, but through the net they

do not even attempt to bite.

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