CHAPTER VII: POPULAR LEGENDS OF BRITTANY

"The legend," says Gomme, in a passage most memorable for students of

folk-lore as containing his acute and precise definition of the

several classes of tradition, "belongs to an historical personage,

locality, or event,"[40] and it is in this general sense that the term

is employed in regard to the contents of this chapter, unless where

mythic or folk-lore matter is introduced for the sake of analogy or

illustration. There is, however, a broad, popular reading of the term

as indicating the fanciful-historical. When we read of the King of Ys,

or Arthur, for example, we are not aware whether they ever existed or

not, but they are alluded to by tradition as ancient rulers of

Brittany and Britain, just as Cymbeline and Cole are spoken of as

British monarchs of the distant past. They linger as personal figures

in the folk-memory, but they scarcely seem as the personages of

folk-tale. Let us say, then, for the purposes of our classification of

Breton tradition, that we include in the term 'legend' all tales of

great personal figures who are historical or over whom folk-tale has

cast an historical _vraisemblance_, remembering at the same time that

in the case of personages whose existence is doubtful we may be

dealing with a folk-tale disguised or even a distorted myth.

_The Dark Story of Gilles de Retz_

Of the dark and terrible legends to which Brittany has given birth,

one of the most gloomy and romantic is the story of Gilles de Retz,

alchemist, magician, and arch-criminal. But the story is not

altogether legendary, although it has undoubtedly been added to from

the great stores of tradition. Gilles is none other than the Bluebeard

of the nursery tale, for he appears to have actually worn a beard

bluish-black in hue, and it is probable that his personality became

mingled with that of the hero of the old Oriental story.

Gilles de Laval, Lord of Retz and Marshal of France, was connected

with some of the noblest families in Brittany, those of Montmorency,

Rocey, and Craon, and at his father's death, about 1424, he found

himself lord of many princely domains, and what, for those times, was

almost unlimited power and wealth. He was a handsome youth, lithe and

of fascinating address, courageous, and learned as any clerk. A

splendid career lay before him, but from the first that distorted idea

of the romantic which is typical of certain minds had seized upon him,

and despite his rank and position he much preferred the dark courses

which finally ended in his disgrace and ruin to the dignities of his

seigneury.

Gilles took his principal title from the barony of Retz or Rais, south

of the Loire, on the marches of Brittany. As a youth he did nothing to

justify an evil augury of his future, for he served with zeal and

gallantry in the wars of Charles VI against the English and fought

under Jeanne Darc at the siege of Orléans. In virtue of these

services, and because of his shrewdness and skill in affairs, the King

created him Marshal of France. But from that time onward the man who

had been the able lieutenant of Jeanne Darc and had fought by her side

at Jargeau and Patay began to deteriorate. Some years before he had

married Catherine de Thouars, and with her had received a large dowry;

but he had expended immense sums in the national cause, and his

private life was as extravagant as that of a prince in a fairy tale.

At his castle of Champtocé he dwelt in almost royal state; indeed, his

train when he went hawking or hunting exceeded in magnificence that of

the King himself. His retainers were tricked out in the most gorgeous

liveries, and his table was spread with ruinous abundance. Oxen,

sheep, and pigs were roasted whole, and viands were provided daily for

five hundred persons. He had an insane love of pomp and display, and

his private devotions were ministered to by a large body of

ecclesiastics. His chapel was a marvel of splendour, and was furnished

with gold and silver plate in the most lavish manner. His love of

colour and movement made him fond of theatrical displays, and it is

even said that the play or mystery of Orléans, dealing with the story

of Jeanne Darc, was written with his own hand. He was munificent in

his patronage of the arts, and was himself a skilled illuminator and

bookbinder. In short, he was obviously one of those persons of

abnormal character in whom genius is allied to madness and who can

attempt and execute nothing except in a spirit of the wildest excess.

The reduction of his fortune merely served his peculiar and abnormal

personality with a new excuse for extravagance. At this time the art

of alchemy flourished exceedingly and the works of Nicolas Flamel, the

Arabian Geber, and Pierre d'Estaing enjoyed a great vogue. On an evil

day it occurred to Gilles to turn alchemist, and thus repair his

broken fortunes. In the first quarter of the fifteenth century alchemy

stood for scientific achievement, and many persons in our own

enlightened age still study its maxims. A society exists to-day the

object of which is to further the knowledge of alchemical science. A

common misapprehension is current to the effect that the object of the

alchemists was the transmutation of the baser metals into gold, but in

reality they were divided into two groups, those who sought eagerly

the secret of manufacturing the precious metals, and those who dreamed

of a higher aim, the transmutation of the gross, terrestrial nature of

man into the pure gold of the spirit.

The latter of these aims was beyond the fevered imagination of such a

wild and disorderly mind as that of Gilles de Retz. He sent emissaries

into Italy, Spain, and Germany to invite adepts in the science to his

castle at Champtocé. From among these he selected two men to assist

him in his plan--Prelati, an alchemist of Padua, and a certain

physician of Poitou, whose name is not recorded. At their instigation

he built a magnificent laboratory, and when it was completed commenced

to experiment. A year passed, during which the necessities of the

'science' gradually emptied many bags of gold, but none returned to

the Marshal's coffers. The alchemists slept soft and fed sumptuously,

and were quite content to pursue their labours so long as the Seigneur

of Retz had occasion for their services. But as the time passed that

august person became greatly impatient, and so irritable did he grow

because of the lack of results that at length his assistants, in

imminent fear of dismissal, communicated to him a dark and dreadful

secret of their art, which, they assured him, would assist them at

arriving speedily at the desired end.

The nature of the experiment they proposed was so grotesque that its

acceptance by Gilles proves that he was either insane or a victim of

the superstition of his time. His wretched accomplices told him that

the Evil One alone was capable of revealing the secret of the

transmutation of the baser metals into gold, and they offered to

summon him to their master's aid. They assured Gilles that Satan would

require a recompense for his services, and the Marshal retorted that

so long as he saved his soul intact he was quite willing to conclude

any bargain that the Father of Evil might propose.

It was arranged that the ceremony should take place within a gloomy

wood in the neighbourhood. The nameless physician conducted the Lord

of Retz to a small clearing in this plantation, where the magic circle

was drawn and the usual conjurations made. For half an hour they

waited in silence, and then a great trembling fell upon the physician.

A deadly pallor overspread his countenance. His knees shook, he

muttered wildly, and at last he sank to the ground. Gilles stood by

unmoved. The insanity of egotism is of course productive of great if

not lofty courage, and he feared neither man nor fiend. Suddenly the

alchemist regained consciousness and told his master that the Devil

had appeared to him in the shape of a leopard and had growled at him

horribly. He ascribed Gilles' lack of supernatural vision to want of

faith. He then declared that the Evil One had told him where certain

herbs grew in Spain and Africa, the juices of which possessed the

power to effect the transmutation, and these he obligingly offered to

search for, provided the Lord of Retz furnished the means for his

travels. This Gilles gladly did, and of course never beheld the

Poitevin knave again.

Days and months passed and the physician did not return. Gilles grew

uneasy. It was imperative that gold should be forthcoming immediately,

for not only was he being pressed on every side, but he was unable to

support his usual magnificence. In this dilemma he turned to Prelati,

his remaining alchemical assistant. This man appears to have believed

in his art or he would not have made the terrible suggestion he did,

which was that the Lord of Retz should sign with his own blood a

compact with the Devil, and should offer up a young child in sacrifice

to him. To this proposal the unhappy Gilles consented. On the

following night Prelati quitted the castle, and returned shortly

afterward with the story that the fiend had appeared to him in the

likeness of a young man who desired to be called Barron, and had

pointed out to him the resting-place of a hoard of ingots of pure

gold, buried under an oak in the neighbouring wood. Certain

conditions, however, must be observed before the treasure was dug up,

the chief of which was that it must not be searched for until a period

of seven times seven weeks had elapsed, or it would turn into slates.

With these conditions de Retz would not comply, and, alarmed at his

annoyance, the obliging Prelati curtailed the time of waiting to seven

times seven days. At the end of that period the alchemist and his dupe

repaired to the wood to dig up the treasure. They worked hard for some

time, and at length came upon a load of slates, inscribed with magical

characters. Prelati pretended great wrath, and upbraided the Evil One

for his deceit, in which denunciation he was heartily joined by de

Retz. But so credulous was the Seigneur that he allowed himself to be

persuaded to afford Satan another trial, which meant, of course, that

Prelati led him on from day to day with specious promises and

ambiguous hints, until he had drained him of nearly all his remaining

substance. He was then preparing to decamp with his plunder when a

dramatic incident detained him.

[Illustration: THE DEVIL IN THE FORM OF A LEOPARD APPEARS BEFORE THE

ALCHEMIST]

For some time a rumour had been circulating in the country-side that

numerous children were missing and that they had been spirited away.

Popular clamour ran high, and suspicion was directed toward the castle

of Champtocé. So circumstantial was the evidence against de Retz that

at length the Duke of Brittany ordered both the Seigneur and his

accomplice to be arrested. Their trial took place before a commission

which de Retz denounced, declaring that he would rather be hanged like

a dog, without trial, than plead before its members. But the evidence

against him was overwhelming. It was told how the wretched madman, in

his insane quest for gold, had sacrificed his innocent victims on the

altar of Satan, and how he had gloated over their sufferings. Finally

he confessed his enormities and told how nearly a hundred children had

been cruelly murdered by him and his relentless accomplice. Both he

and Prelati were doomed to be burned alive, but in consideration of

his rank he was strangled before being cast into the flames. Before

the execution he expressed to Prelati a hope that they would meet in

Paradise, and, it is said, met his end very devoutly.

The castle of Champtocé still stands in its beautiful valley, and

many romantic legends cluster about its grey old walls. "The

hideous, half-burnt body of the monster himself," says Trollope,

"circled with flames--pale, indeed, and faint in colour, but more

lasting than those the hangman kindled around his mortal form in

the meadow under the walls of Nantes--is seen, on bright moonlight

nights, standing now on one topmost point of craggy wall, and now

on another, and is heard mingling his moan with the sough of the

night-wind. Pale, bloodless forms, too, of youthful growth and

mien, the restless, unsepulchred ghosts of the unfortunates who

perished in these dungeons unassoiled ... may at similar times be

seen flitting backward and forward, in numerous groups, across the

space enclosed by the ruined wall, with more than mortal speed, or

glancing hurriedly from window to window of the fabric, as still

seeking to escape from its hateful confinement."[41]

_Comorre the Cursed_

As has been said, the story of Gilles de Retz is connected by

tradition with that of Bluebeard, but it is probable that this

traditional connexion arises simply from the association of two famous

tales. The other legend in question is that of Comorre the Cursed,

whose story is told in the frescoes which cover the wall of the church

of St Nicolas de Bieuzy, dedicated to St Triphyne, in which the tale

of Bluebeard is depicted as the story of the saint, who in history was

the wife of Comorre. Comorre was a chief who ruled at Carhaix, in

Finistère, and his tale, which owes its modern dress to Émile

Souvestre, himself a Breton, and author of _Derniers Bretons_ and the

brilliant sketch _Un Philosophe sous les Toits_. The tale, translated,

runs as follows:

Guerech, Count of Vannes, 'the Country of White Corn,' had a daughter,

Triphyna, whom he tenderly loved. One day ambassadors arrived from

Comorre, a prince of Cornouaille, 'the Country of Black Corn,'

demanding her in marriage. Now this caused great distress, for

Comorre was a giant, and one of the wickedest of men, held in awe by

every one for his cruelty. As a boy, when he went out, his mother used

to ring a bell to warn people of his approach; and when unsuccessful

in the chase he would set his dogs on the peasants to tear them to

pieces. But most horrible of all, he had had four wives, who had all

died one after the other, it was suspected either by the knife, fire,

water, or poison. The Count of Vannes, therefore, dismissed the

ambassadors, and advanced to meet Comorre, who was approaching with a

powerful army; but St Gildas went into Triphyna's oratory and begged

her to save bloodshed and consent to the marriage. He gave her a

silver ring, which would warn her of any intended evil by turning as

black as a crow's wing at the approach of danger.

The marriage took place with great rejoicings. The first day six

thousand guests were invited; on the next day as many poor were fed,

the bride and the bridegroom themselves serving at the tables. For

some time all went well. Comorre's nature seemed altered; his prisons

were empty, his gibbets untenanted. But Triphyna felt no confidence,

and every day went to pray at the tombs of his four wives. At this

time there was an assembly of the Breton princes at Rennes, which

Comorre was obliged to attend. Before his departure he gave Triphyna

his keys, desiring her to amuse herself in his absence. After five

months he unexpectedly returned, and found her occupied trimming an

infant's cap with gold lace. On seeing the cap Comorre turned pale;

and when Triphyna joyfully announced to him that soon he would be a

father he drew back in a rage and rushed out of the apartment.

Triphyna saw that her ring had turned black, which betokened danger,

she knew not why. She descended into the chapel to pray. When she rose

to depart the hour of midnight struck, and suddenly a sound of

movement in the silent chapel chilled her at the heart; shrinking into

a recess, she saw the four tombs of Comorre's wives open slowly, and

the women all issued forth in their winding-sheets.

Faint with terror, Triphyna tried to escape; but the spectres cried:

"Take care, poor lost one! Comorre seeks to kill you."

"Me," said the Countess. "What evil have I done?"

"You have told him that you will soon become a mother; and, through

the Spirit of Evil, he knows that his child will slay him. He murdered

us when we told him what he has just learned from you."

"What hope, then, of refuge remains for me?" cried Triphyna.

"Go back to your father," answered the phantoms.

"But how escape when Comorre's dog guards the court?"

"Give him this poison which killed me," said the first wife.

"But how can I descend yon high wall?"

"By means of this cord which strangled me," answered the second wife.

"But who will guide me through the dark?"

"The fire that burnt me," replied the third wife.

"And how can I make so long a journey?" returned Triphyna.

"Take this stick which broke my skull," rejoined the fourth spectre.

Armed with the poison, the rope, and the stick, Triphyna set out,

silenced the dog, scaled the wall, and, miraculously guided on her

way through the darkness by a glowing light, proceeded on her road to

Vannes. On awaking next morning Comorre found that his wife had fled,

and pursued her on horseback. The poor fugitive, seeing her ring turn

black, turned off the road and hid herself till night in the cabin of

a shepherd, where there was only an old magpie in a cage at the door,

and here her baby was born. Comorre, who had given up the pursuit, was

returning home by that road, when he heard the magpie trying to

imitate her complaints and calling out "Poor Triphyna!" Guessing that

his wife had passed that way, he set his dog on the track.

Meanwhile Triphyna felt she could proceed no farther, and lay down on

the ground with her baby boy. As she clasped the child in her arms she

saw over her head a falcon with a golden collar, which she recognized

as her father's. The bird came at her call, and giving it the warning

ring of St Gildas she told it to fly with it to her father. The bird

obeyed, and flew like lightning to Vannes; but almost at the same

instant Comorre arrived. Having parted with her warning ring,

Triphyna, who had no notice of his approach, had only time to conceal

her babe in the cavity of a tree when Comorre threw himself upon her,

and with one blow from his sword severed her head from her body.

When the falcon arrived at Vannes he found the Count at dinner with St

Gildas. He let the ring fall into the silver cup of his master, who,

recognizing it, exclaimed:

"My daughter is in danger! Saddle the horses, and let Saint Gildas

accompany us." Following the falcon, they soon reached the spot where

Triphyna lay dead. After they had all knelt in prayer, St Gildas said

to the corpse: "Arise, take thy head and thy child, and follow us."

The dead body obeyed, the bewildered troop followed; but, gallop as

fast as they could, the headless body was always in front, carrying

the babe in her left hand, and her pale head in the right. In this

manner they reached the castle of Comorre.

"Count," called St Gildas before the gates, "I bring back thy wife

such as thy wickedness has made her, and thy child such as heaven has

given it thee. Wilt thou receive them under thy roof?"

Comorre was silent. The Saint three times repeated the question, but

no voice returned an answer. Then St Gildas took the new-born infant

from its mother and placed it on the ground. The child marched alone

to the edge of the moat, picked up a handful of earth, and, throwing

it against the castle, exclaimed: "Let the Trinity execute judgment."

At the same instant the towers shook and fell with a crash, the walls

yawned open, and the castle sunk, burying Comorre and all his partners

in crime. St Gildas then replaced Triphyna's head upon her shoulders,

laid his hands upon her, and restored her to life, to the great joy of

her father. Such is the history of Triphyna and Comorre.

_The Legend of Ys_

The legend of the submerged city of Ys, or Is, is perhaps the most

romantic and imaginative effort of Breton popular legend. Who has not

heard of the submerged bells of Ys, and who has not heard them ring in

the echoes of his own imagination?

This picturesque legend[42] tells us that in the early days of the

Christian epoch the city of Ys, or Ker-is, was ruled by a prince

called Gradlon, surnamed Meur, which in Celtic means 'the Great.'

Gradlon was a saintly and pious man, and acted as patron to Gwénnolé,

founder and first abbé of the first monastery built in Armorica. But,

besides being a religious man, Gradlon was a prudent prince, and

defended his capital of Ys from the invasions of the sea by

constructing an immense basin to receive the overflow of the water at

high tide. This basin had a secret gate, of which the King alone

possessed the key, and which he opened and closed at the necessary

times.

Gradlon, as is so often the case with pious men, had a wayward child,

the princess Dahut, who on one occasion while her father was sleeping

gave a secret banquet to her lover, in which the pair, excited with

wine, committed folly after folly, until at last it occurred to the

frivolous girl to open the sluice-gate. Stealing noiselessly into her

sleeping father's chamber she detached from his girdle the key he

guarded so jealously and opened the gate. The water immediately rushed

in and submerged the entire city.

But, as usual, there is more than one version of this interesting

legend. The city of Ys, says another account, was a place rich in

commerce and the arts, but so given over to luxury as to arouse the

ire of St Gwénnolé, who, in the manner of Jeremiah, foretold its ruin.

It was situated where now a piece of water, the Étang de Laval, washes

the desolate shores of the Bay of Trépassés--though another version of

the tale has it that it stood in the vast basin which now forms the

Bay of Douarnenez. A strong dike protected it from the ocean, the

sluices only admitting sufficient water for the needs of the town.

Gradlon constantly bore round his neck a silver key which opened at

the same time the vast sluices and the city gates. He lived in great

state in a palace of marble, cedar, and gold, and his only grief was

the conduct of his daughter Dahut, who, it is said, "had made a crown

of her vices and taken for her pages the seven capital sins." But

retribution was at hand, and the wicked city met with sudden

destruction, for one night Dahut stole the silver key for the purpose

of opening the city gates to admit her lover, and in the darkness by

mistake opened the sluices. King Gradlon was awakened by St Gwénnolé,

who commanded him to flee, as the torrent was reaching the palace. He

mounted his horse, and, taking his worthless daughter behind him, set

off at a gallop, the incoming flood seething and boiling at his

steed's fetlocks. The torrent was about to overtake and submerge him

when a voice from behind called out: "Throw the demon thou carriest

into the sea, if thou dost not desire to perish." Dahut at that moment

fell from the horse's back into the water, and the torrent immediately

stopped its course. Gradlon reached Quimper safe and sound, but

nothing is said as to his subsequent career.

[Illustration: THE ESCAPE OF KING GRADLON FROM THE FLOODED CITY OF YS]

An ancient ballad on the subject, which, however, bears marks of

having been tampered with, states, on the other hand, that Gradlon led

his people into extravagances of every kind, and that Dahut received

the key from him, the misuse of which precipitated the catastrophe.

Dahut, the ballad continues, became a mermaid and haunted the waters

which roll over the site of the city where she loved and feasted.

"Fisherman," ends the ballad, "have you seen the daughter of the sea

combing her golden hair in the midday sun at the fringes of the

beach?" "Yes," replies the fisherman, "I have seen the white daughter

of the sea, and I have heard her sing, and her songs were plaintive as

the sound of the waves."

The legend of Ys, of the town swallowed up by the sea, is common to

the several branches of the Celtic race. In Wales the site of the

submerged city is in Cardigan Bay, and in Ireland it is Lough Neagh,

as Tom Moore says:

On Lough Neagh's bank as the fisherman strays,

When the clear, cold eve's declining,

He sees the round towers of other days

In the wave beneath him shining.

This legend had its rise in an extraordinary story which was given

currency to by Giraldus Cambrensis in his _Topography of Ireland_, to

the effect that a certain extremely wicked tribe were punished for

their sins by the inundation of their territory.

"Now there was a common proverb," says Gerald, "in the mouths of the

tribe, that whenever the well-spring of that country was left

uncovered (for out of reverence shown to it, from a barbarous

superstition, the spring was kept covered and sealed), it would

immediately overflow and inundate the whole province, drowning and

destroying the whole population. It happened, however, on some

occasion that a young woman, who had come to the spring to draw water,

after filling her pitcher, but before she had closed the well, ran in

great haste to her little boy, whom she had heard crying at a spot not

far from the spring where she had left him. But the voice of the

people is the voice of God; and on her way back she met such a flood

of water from the spring that it swept off her and the boy, and the

inundation was so violent that they both, and the whole tribe, with

their cattle, were drowned in an hour in this partial and local

deluge. The waters, having covered the whole surface of that fertile

district, were converted into a permanent lake. A not improbable

confirmation of this occurrence is found in the fact that the

fishermen in that lake see distinctly under the water, in calm

weather, ecclesiastical towers, which, according to the custom of the

country, are slender and lofty, and moreover round; and they

frequently point them out to strangers travelling through these parts,

who wonder what could have caused such a catastrophe."

In the Welsh version of this fascinating legend it is the bard

Gwyddno, of the twelfth century, who tells of the downfall of the

submerged city, and two of the strophes which occur in his poem are

also found in the Breton poem. The Welsh bard may have received the

story from Breton sources, or the converse may be the case.

The legend that Cardigan Bay contains a submerged territory is widely

known, and strangely enough seems to be corroborated by the shape of

the coast-line, the contour of which suggests the subsidence of a

large body of land. Like their brothers of Ireland, the fishermen of

Wales assert that at low tide they can see the ruins of ancient

edifices far down beneath the clear waters of the bay.[43]

Before the days of the French Revolution there was still to be seen at

Quimper, between the two towers of the cathedral, a figure of King

Gradlon mounted on his faithful courser, but in the stormy year of

1793 the name of king was in bad odour and the ignorant populace

deprived the statue of its head. However, in 1859 it was restored.

Legend attributes the introduction of the vine into Brittany to King

Gradlon, and on St Cecilia's Day a regular ritual was gone through in

Quimper in connexion with his counterfeit presentment. A company of

singers mounted on a platform. While they sang a hymn in praise of

King Gradlon, one of the choristers, provided with a flagon of wine, a

napkin, and a golden hanap (or cup), mounted on the crupper of the

King's horse, poured out a cup of wine, which he offered ceremoniously

to the lips of the statue and then drank himself, carefully wiped with

his napkin the moustache of the King, placed a branch of laurel in his

hand, and then threw down the hanap in the midst of the crowd below,

in honour of the first planter of the grape in Brittany. To whoever

caught the cup before it fell, and presented it uninjured to the

Chapter, was adjudged a prize of two hundred crowns.

There is a distinct savour of myth about all this. Can it be that

Gradlon was a Breton Bacchus? There are notices of Celtic goddesses in

whose honour Bacchic rites were held, and the place of these was

sometimes taken by a corn god. Later the festival in its memorial

aspect appears to have been associated with different kings[44] in the

various parts of the Celtic world, and it seems likely that Gradlon

was such a monarch who had taken the place of a vanished deity. It

must be left to Celtic scholars to determine whether the name Gradlon

possesses any deific significance hidden in its etymology.

_The Clerk of Rohan_

Jeanne de Rohan, daughter of Alain, fifth of the name, Viscount of

Rohan, married in the year 1236 Matthew, Seigneur of Beauvau, son of

René, Constable of Naples. Breton popular poetry has in many ballads

recounted the adventures of Jeanne and her husband, one of which is as

follows[45]:

At the age of thirteen Jeanne consented to be married, but she desired

that she herself should be allowed to choose her husband. Accordingly

the cavaliers and barons of the district were invited to pay their

court to her, and she fixed her affections upon the Seigneur of

Beauvau, a valiant noble with large possessions in Italy. He was loyal

and courteous, and when the pair were wedded their happiness seemed

perfect.

At this period the war in Palestine against the infidels was agitating

the whole of Europe. The Seigneur of Beauvau desired to join the

Crusaders, but his wife was by no means anxious that he should leave

his home. But his principle was _noblesse oblige_. "I am of the most

noble blood," he said; "therefore it behoves me to be the first to

lead the way."

He confided the care of his estates and his affairs in general to his

wife's cousin, who was known as the Clerk of Rohan, and begged him to

look well after Jeanne and his little son. Then, having bid farewell

to them all, he mounted his horse and rode away to the wars.

Jeanne was inconsolable. For days she wandered about the château

carrying her baby boy in her arms and sobbing. All the domestic circle

seemed disturbed at the Seigneur's departure except the Clerk of

Rohan, to whom Count Matthew had so trustingly confided the charge of

his affairs.

The Seigneur had declared that he would return within a year's time. A

year passed, however, and no news of him had been received. Now the

Clerk was a perfidious and wicked schemer, and one morning as he and

Jeanne were in conversation he hinted that the year within which the

Seigneur had promised to return was now gone by and that the war in

which he had been engaged had come to an end. He made no secret of his

passion for the lady, but she on her part turned upon him angrily,

saying: "Is it the fashion nowadays for women to consider themselves

widows, knowing well that their husbands are alive? Go to, miserable

Clerk, thy heart is full of wickedness. If my husband were here he

would break thee in little pieces!"

When the Clerk heard this he went secretly to the kennels, and there

he slew the Seigneur's favourite greyhound. Taking some of its blood,

he wrote with it a letter to Count Matthew telling him that his wife

was most unhappy because of an accident which had occurred; that she

had been hunting the deer, and that in the chase his favourite

greyhound had died from over-exertion. The Seigneur duly received the

letter, and in his reply told the Clerk to comfort the lady, as he was

quite able to replace the hound. At the same time he desired that

hunting should cease for the present, as the huntsmen seemed unskilful

in their conduct of the chase.

The wicked Clerk once more sought the lady.

"Alas!" said he, "you are losing your beauty by weeping night and

day."

"I will know how to recover my beauty when my husband returns," she

replied coldly.

"Do not cheat yourself," he said. "Surely you can see by this time

that he is either dead or has taken another wife. In the East there

are many beautiful girls who are far wealthier than you."

"If he has taken another wife," said the lady, "I shall die; and if he

be dead I ask for naught but death. Leave me, miserable wretch. Thy

tongue is poisoned with deceit."

When the Clerk had sufficiently recovered from this second rebuff, he

betook himself to the stables, where the Seigneur's horse, the most

beautiful in the country, stood champing in its stall. The wretch,

drawing his poignard, thrust it into the noble steed's entrails, and,

as he had done in the case of the greyhound, took some of the blood

and wrote once more to the Count.

"Another accident has occurred at the château," he said, "but, my dear

Seigneur, pray do not trouble yourself on account of it. When your

wife was returning from a feast in the night your favourite horse fell

and broke two of his legs, and had to be destroyed."

The Seigneur replied that he was grieved to hear of the circumstance,

and that in order to avoid further mischances of the sort it would be

better that his wife should frequent no more feasts.

A third time the perfidious Clerk sought the lady. On this occasion he

threatened her with death if she would not be his, but she replied in

the most spirited manner that she loved death a thousand times better

than him. At these words he could not contain his rage, and, drawing

his dagger, thrust fiercely at her head. But the lady's guardian angel

turned the stroke and the weapon struck harmlessly against the wall.

She fled from the room, closing the door behind her as she went;

whereupon the Clerk rushed downstairs to the nursery where her child

was quietly sleeping in its cradle, and, seeing no one beside it,

stabbed the slumbering infant to the heart.

Then he wrote to the Seigneur: "Hasten your return, I beg of you, for

it is necessary that you should be here to establish order. Your dog

and your white courser have perished, but that is not the worst. Your

little son, alas! is also dead. The great sow devoured him when your

wife was at a ball with the miller for a gallant."

When the Seigneur received this letter he returned at once from the

wars, his anger rising higher and higher with every homeward league.

When he arrived at the château he struck three times upon the door

with his hand, and his summons was answered by the Clerk.

"How now, evil Clerk," shouted the infuriated Count, "did I not leave

my wife in your care?" and with these words he thrust his lance into

the Clerk's open mouth, so that the point stood out at the nape of his

neck. Then, mounting the stairs, he entered his wife's chamber, and

without speaking a word stabbed her with his sword.

The ballad then goes on to speak of the burial of the victims of the

wicked Clerk. The lady, dressed all in white, was laid in her tomb by

the light of the moon and the stars. On her breast lay her little son,

on her right the favourite greyhound, and on her left the white

courser, and it is said that in her grave she first caresses one and

then the other, and the infant, as if jealous, nestles closer to his

mother's heart.

_The Lady of La Garaye_

The château of La Garaye, near Dinan, is rendered famous by the

virtues and boundless charity of its Count, Claude Toussaint Marot de

La Garaye, and his wife. Their interesting story is told in the

charming poem of Mrs Norton, _The Lady of La Garaye_:

Listen to the tale I tell,

Grave the story is--not sad;

And the peasant plodding by

Greets the place with kindly eye,

For the inmates that it had.

Count Claude de La Garaye and his wife were young, beautiful, and

endowed with friends, riches, and all that could make life bright and

happy. They entertained generously and enjoyed the pleasures and

amusements of the world. But one day misfortune overtook them, for the

Countess was thrown from her horse, and she was left a cripple for

life, while all expectations of an heir vanished. Both were

inconsolable at their disappointment. One day a monk came to visit

them, and tried to comfort them, seeking by his conversation to turn

their thoughts from earthly afflictions to heavenly consolation.

"Ah, my father," said the lady, "how happy are you, to love nothing on

earth!"

"You are mistaken," answered the monk; "I love all those who are in

sorrow or suffering. But I submit myself to the will of the Almighty,

and bend myself with resignation to every blow He strikes."

He proceeded to show them that there was still a great deal of

happiness in store for them in ministering to the needs of others.

Following his counsel, they went to Paris, where for three years the

Count studied medicine and surgery, and his wife became a skilful

oculist. On their return to La Garaye they gave up all the amusements

of society and devoted themselves to relieving the sufferings of their

fellow-creatures. Their house was converted into a hospital for the

sick and afflicted, under the ministering care of the Count and his

benevolent wife:

Her home is made their home; her wealth their dole;

Her busy courtyard hears no more the roll

Of gilded vehicles, or pawing steeds,

But feeble steps of those whose bitter needs

Are their sole passport. Through that gateway press

All varying forms of sickness and distress,

And many a poor, worn face that hath not smiled

For years, and many a feeble crippled child,

Blesses the tall white portal where they stand,

And the dear Lady of the liberal hand.

Nor was their philanthropy confined to their own province. In 1729

they offered themselves to M. de Belsunce--"Marseilles' good

bishop"--to assist him during the visitation of the plague. The fame

of their virtues reached even the French Court, and Louis XV sent

Count de La Garaye the Order of St Lazarus, with a donation of 50,000

livres and a promise of 25,000 more. They both died at an advanced

age, within two years of each other, and were buried among their poor

at Taden. Their marble mausoleum in the church was destroyed during

the French Revolution. The Count left a large sum to be distributed

among the prisoners, principally English, pent up in the crowded gaols

of Rennes and Dinan. He had attended the English prisoners at Dinan

during a contagious fever called the 'peste blanche,' and in

acknowledgment of his humanity Queen Caroline sent him two dogs with

silver collars round their necks, and an English nobleman made him a

present of six more.

The ruined château is approached by an ivy-covered gateway, through an

avenue of beeches. As Mrs Norton renders it:

And like a mourner's mantle, with sad grace,

Waves the dark ivy, hiding half the door

And threshold, where the weary traveller's foot

Shall never find a courteous welcome more.

The ruin is fast falling to pieces. The principal part remaining is an

octagonal turret of three stories, with elegant Renaissance decoration

round the windows.

_The Falcon_

An interesting and picturesque ballad sung in the Black Mountains is

that of _The Falcon_. Geoffrey, first Duke of Brittany, was departing

for Rome in the year 1008, leaving the government of the country in

the hands of his wife Ethwije, sister of Richard of Normandy. As he

was about to set out on his pilgrimage the falcon which he carried on

his wrist after the manner of the nobles of the period, swooped down

on and killed the hen of a poor peasant woman. The woman in a rage

seized a large stone and cast it at the bird with such violence that

it slew not only the falcon but the Duke himself. The death of the

Duke was followed by a most desperate insurrection among the people.

History does not enlighten us as to the cause of this rising, but

tradition attributes it to the invasion of Brittany by the Normans

(whom the widow of Geoffrey at once brought into the country on the

demise of her husband) and the exactions which were wrung from the

peasants by these haughty aliens.

[Illustration: A PEASANT INSURRECTION]

The ballad, which was used as a war-song by the Bretons at a later

day, begins in true ballad style: "The falcon has strangled the fowl,

the peasant woman has slain the Count who oppressed the people, the

poor people, like a brute-beast."

The hate of the stranger so characteristic of the old Bretons then

flashes forth. "The country has been polluted by the foreigner, by the

men of the Gallic land, and because of the death of a hen and a falcon

Brittany is on fire, blood flows, and there is great dole among the

people."

On the summit of the Black Mountain thirty stout peasants had gathered

to celebrate the ancient feast of the good St John. Among them was

Kado the Striver, who stood there gravely leaning on his iron

pitchfork. For a while he looked upon his comrades; then he opened his

lips:

"What say you, fellow-peasants? Do you intend to pay this tax? As for

me, I shall certainly not pay it. I had much rather be hanged.

Nevermore shall I pay this unjust tax. My sons go naked because of it,

my flocks grow less and less. No more shall I pay. I swear it by the

red brands of this fire, by Saint Kado my patron, and by Saint John."

"My fortunes are broken, I am completely ruined," growled one of his

companions. "Before the year is out I shall be compelled to beg my

bread."

Then all rose at once as if by a common impulse.

"None of us will pay this tax! We swear it by the Sun and by the Moon,

and by the great sea which encircles this land of Brittany!"

Kado, stepping out from the circle, seized a firebrand, and holding it

aloft cried: "Let us march, comrades, and strike a blow for freedom!"

The enthusiasm of his companions burst out afresh. Falling into loose

ranks they followed him. His wife marched by his side in the first

rank, carrying a reaping-hook on her shoulder and singing as she

marched.

"Quickly, quickly, my children! We go to strike a blow for liberty!

Have I brought thirty sons into the world to beg their bread, to carry

firewood or to break stones, or bear burdens like beasts? Are they to

till the green land and the grey land with bare feet while the rich

feed their horses, their hunting-dogs, and their falcons better than

they are fed? No! It is to slay the oppressors that I have borne so

many sons!"

Quickly they descended the mountains, gathering numbers as they went.

Now they were three thousand strong, five thousand strong, and when

they arrived at Langoad nine thousand strong. When they came to

Guérande they were thirty thousand strong. The houses of those who had

ground them down were wrapped in flames, fiercely ends the old ballad,

"and the bones of those who had oppressed them cracked, like those of

the damned in Tartarus."

History tells us nothing concerning Kado the Striver, but it is most

unlikely that he is a mere figment of popular imagination. What

history does record, however, is that the wicked Duchess and her host

of mercenary Normans were forced to flee, and that her place was taken

by a more just and righteous ruler.

_The Marquis of Guérande_

Breton tradition speaks of a wild young nobleman, Louis-François de

Guérande, Seigneur of Locmaria, who flourished in the early part of

the seventeenth century. He was wealthy, and lived a life of reckless

abandon; indeed, he was the terror of the parish and the despair of

his pious mother, who, whenever he sallied forth upon adventure bent,

rang the bell of the château, to give the alarm to the surrounding

peasantry. The ballad which tells of the infamous deeds of this titled

ruffian, and which was composed by one Tugdual Salaün, a peasant of

Plouber,[46] opens upon a scene of touching domestic happiness. The

Clerk of Garlon was on a visit to the family of his betrothed.

"Tell me, good mother," he asked, "where is Annaïk? I am anxious that

she should come with me to dance on the green."

"She is upstairs asleep, my son. Take care," added the old woman

roguishly, "that you do not waken her."

The Clerk of Garlon ran lightly up the staircase and knocked at

Annaïk's door.

"Come, Annaïk," he cried; "why are you asleep when all the others go

to dance upon the village green?"

"I do not wish to go to the dance, for I fear the Marquis of

Guérande," replied the girl.

The Clerk of Garlon laughed. "The Marquis of Guérande cannot harm you

so long as I am with you," he said lightly. "Come, Annaïk; were there

a hundred such as he I should protect you from them."

Reassured by her lover's brave words, the girl rose and put on her

dress of white delaine. They were a joyous and beautiful pair. The

Clerk was gaily dressed, with a peacock's feather in his hat and a

chain on his breast, while his betrothed wore a velvet corsage

embroidered with silver.

On that evening the Marquis of Guérande leaped on his great red steed

and sallied forth from his château. Galloping along the road, he

overtook the Clerk of Garlon and his betrothed on their way to the

dance.

"Ha!" he cried, "you go to the dance, I see. It is customary to

wrestle there, is it not?"

"It is, Seigneur," replied the Clerk, doffing his hat.

"Then throw off your doublet and let us try a fall or two," said

Guérande, with a wicked look at Annaïk which was not lost upon her

lover.

"Saving your grace, I may not wrestle with you," said the Clerk, "for

you are a gentleman and I am nobody. You are the son of a lord and I

am the son of a peasant."

"Ha! what! The son of a peasant, say you, and you take your choice of

the pretty girls of the village?"

"Seigneur, pardon me. I did not choose this maiden; God gave her to

me."

During this parley Annaïk stood by, trembling violently. She had heard

of the Marquis of Guérande, and was only too well aware of the evil

and reckless character he bore. The Clerk tried to calm her fears by

whispered words and pressures of the hand, but the wicked Marquis,

observing the state of terror she was in, exulted in the alarm he was

causing her.

"Well, fellow," said he, "since you cannot wrestle with me perhaps you

will try a bout of sword-play."

At these words Annaïk's rosy cheeks became deathly white; but the

Clerk of Garlon spoke up like a man.

"My lord," he said, "I do not wear a sword. The club is my only

weapon. Should you use your sword against me it would but stain it."

The wicked Marquis uttered a fiendish laugh. "If I stain my sword, by

the Saints, I shall wash it in your blood," he cried, and as he spoke

he passed his rapier through the defenceless Clerk's body.

At the sight of her slain lover the gentle heart of Annaïk broke, and

a great madness came upon her. Like a tigress she leapt upon the

Marquis and tore his sword from his hand. Without his rapier he was as

a child in the grasp of the powerful Breton peasant woman. Exerting

all her strength, in a frenzy of grief she dragged the wretch to the

green where the dance was in progress, haling him round and round it

until exhausted. At last she dropped his senseless body on the green

turf and hastened homeward.

And once again we encounter the haunting refrain: "My good mother, if

you love me make my bed, for I am sick unto death."

"Why, daughter, you have danced too much; it is that which has made

you sick."

"I have not danced at all, mother; but the wicked Marquis has slain my

poor Clerk. Say to the sexton who buries him: 'Do not throw in much

earth, for in a little while you will have to place my daughter beside

him in this grave.' Since we may not share the same marriage-bed we

shall at least sleep in the same tomb, and if we have not been married

in this world we shall at least be joined in heaven."

The reader will be relieved to learn that the hero of this ballad,

the Clerk of Garlon, was not killed after all, and that for once fact

is enabled to step in to correct the sadness of fiction; for, when one

comes to think of it, there are few sadder things in the world than

the genuine folk-ballad, which, although at the time it may arouse

æsthetic emotions, may yet afterward give rise to haunting pain. We

are glad to be able to chronicle, then, that the worthy Clerk did not

die of his wound as stated by Tugdual Salaün of the parish of Plouber,

author of the ballad, and that the wicked Marquis escaped the halter,

which, according to Breton custom, he would not otherwise have done

had the Clerk died. His good mother took upon herself the burden of an

annual pension to the Clerk's aged parents, and adopted the second

child of Annaïk, who had duly married her sweetheart, and this little

one she educated, furthering its interests in every possible manner.

As for the Marquis, he actually settled down, and one cannot help

feeling chagrined that such a promising rogue should have turned

talents so eminently suitable for the manufacture of legendary

material into more humdrum courses. Conscious of the gravity of his

early misdemeanours, he founded a hospital for the poor of the parish,

and each evening in one of the windows of this place the peasants

could see a light which burned steadily far into the night. If any

asked the reason for this illumination he was told: "It is the Marquis

of Guérande, who lies awake praying God to pardon his youth."

_The Châteaux of Brittany_

The châteaux of Brittany may truly be called the historical and

legendary shrines of the province, for within their halls, keeps, and

donjons Breton tradition and history were made. It is doubtful,

indeed, if the castellated mansions of any other country, save,

perhaps, those of the Rhine, harbour so many legends, arising either

from the actual historical happenings connected with them or from

those more picturesque yet terrible associations which they are

popularly supposed to have with the powers of evil. The general

appearance of such a building as the Breton château admirably lends

itself to sombre tradition. The massy walls seem thick enough to

retain all secrets, and the cry for vengeance for blood spilt within

them cannot pass to the outer world through the narrow _meurtrières_

or arrow-slits of the _avant-corps_. The broad yet lofty towers which

flank the front rise into a _toiture_ or _coiffe_ like an enchanter's

conical cap. The _lucarnes_, or attic casements, are guarded on either

side by gargoyles grim of aspect, or perhaps by griffins holding the

shield-borne arms of dead and gone seigneurs. Seek where you will,

among the wizard-houses of old Prague, the witch-dens of ancient

Edinburgh, the bat-haunted castles of Drachenfels or Rheinstein, you

will come at nothing built of man more informed with the soul of the

Middle Ages, more drenched with their peculiar savour of mystery, than

these stark keeps whose crests and _girouettes_ rise above encircling

woods or frown upon mirroring rivers over the length and breadth of

the Breton land.

_La Roche-Jagu_

One of the most typical of the châteaux of Brittany is that of La

Roche-Jagu, at one time the guardian of the mouth of the river Trieux.

It is built on the top of a hill which overhangs the Trieux, and from

one of its battlemented galleries a splendid view of the windings of

the river can be obtained. The wall on this side of the fortress is so

thick as to allow of a chapel being hewn out of its solidity. A most

distinctive architectural note is struck by the fourteen wonderful

chimney-shafts of cut stone ornamented with iron spikes.

_Tonquédec_

Some miles farther down the river, but on its opposite side, is the

imposing castle of Tonquédec, perhaps the finest remnant of the

medieval military architecture of Brittany. It has always remained in

the family of the Viscounts of Coêtman, who ranked among the foremost

of the Breton nobility, though one of them espoused the cause of the

Constable Clisson against Duke John IV, and had the anguish of seeing

his ancestral fortress razed to the ground. Under Henry IV, however,

the castle was restored, only to be again demolished by order of

Cardinal Richelieu, who strongly and forcibly disapproved of such

powerful fortalices.

It had an outer enclosure, and had to be entered by a drawbridge, and

it was strengthened in every way conceivable to the military art of

the times. It was surrounded by dwellings for the convenience of the

seigneur's retainers, a fine _salle d'armes_ still remaining. To the

keep, four stories high, a flying bridge led, in order to facilitate

the withdrawal of the garrison in case of siege. Behind walls ten feet

thick, so long as food and ammunition lasted, the inmates could hold

the enemy in scorn.

_Clisson_

The château of Clisson, once the property of the great Constable

Oliver de Clisson, whom the Viscount of Coêtman and the Bretons of

Penthièvre had championed, is now only a grand old ruin, a touching

monument of the architectural splendours of former days. By

moonlight it makes a scene not easily forgotten, gaunt and still

and ruggedly imposing, the silent reminder of events and people

tales of whom will not readily die, the treasurer of secrets it

will probably never yield. Its antithesis is the castle of Nantes,

with the stamp of the Renaissance upon its delicately sculptured

balconies and window-frames. It is now an arsenal, a fact which

robs it of some of the romantic interest of Clisson, or, indeed, of

ruins in general, yet within its walls are the prison chambers in

which Gilles de Laval, the ambitious Finance Minister Fouquet, the

Cardinal de Retz, and the Duchess of Berry once languished. For many

years it served as one of the political prisons of France, though

it is also associated with brighter and happier times; for here, on

pleasure bent, lingered many of the Kings of France from Louis XI

onward, and here in 1675 Madame de Sévigné sojourned, a circumstance

which casts about it a literary as well as a romantic glamour. The

great well in the courtyard, with its ornamental railing of wrought

iron, is quite equal to the famous well of Quentin Matsys at Antwerp.

_Josselin_

The castle of Josselin, also associated with the history of the great

Constable Clisson and his allies, as well as with the notorious League

whose followers wrought such intolerable misery in Brittany, is built

on a rocky foundation near the river Oust. With its imposing front and

conically roofed towers it is one of the best examples of a

twelfth-century fortress-château. Very different in tone is the

architecture of the interior court, being that of the period when the

lighter traceries and more imaginative lines of the Renaissance were

in favour. The window-openings of the two first stories are beautiful

enough to rival those of Chambord and equal those of Blois. Above the

windows an open gallery runs, and in the space between each the device

of the Rohans is carved, with their motto, _A Plus_, this celebrated

family having built this part of the château. About the year 1400

Clisson added a keep, walls, and parapets, but in 1629, when the

fortress was no longer a stronghold of the League, these were

permitted to fall into ruin. Through the courtesy of the family now in

residence this wonderfully preserved castle may be visited, a

circumstance for which the tourist in Brittany should indeed be

grateful. Interest within these massy walls clings around the well,

with its ornamental railings, the noble and lofty hall, the library,

with its magnificent chimney-piece, repeating again, in stone, the

Rohan motto, _A Plus_, and the equestrian statue of Clisson, by

Frémiet, in the dining-room.

_Hennebont and Largoet_

Of the old château of Hennebont, where John of Montfort breathed his

last after escaping from the Louvre of his day, only a heap of stones

remains. The old fortress of Largoet is in much the same condition,

nothing of the ancient structure having been conserved save the famous

Tour d'Elven, considered to be the most beautiful castle keep in all

Brittany, which has also a literary distinction as being the scene of

some of the most touching episodes in Octave Feuillet's _Roman d'un

jeune Homme pauvre_.

_Châteaubriant_

At Châteaubriant, which owes its name to the compounding of the

word 'château' with that of 'Briant,' the family style of its

original lord, the old feudal fortress is now a ruin, but the

castle, built by Jean de Laval, Governor of Brittany under Francis

I, is in good repair. An inscription giving the date of the completion

of the new château as 1538 is above the portal of the colonnade.

There is a gruesome legend associated with the old château, in which

for some time dwelt the unfortunate Françoise de Foix, Countess of

Châteaubriant and beloved of Francis I. Tiring or becoming suspicious

of her royal lover, she decided to return to her husband, the old

Count of Laval. The reunion, however, was not productive of

happiness, owing to the fever of jealousy in which her elderly

husband lived because of the love affair with the King. This

jealousy eventually flared into mania when he heard that she had

actually visited her former lover in prison after he had been

captured at Pavia. Instantly he "shut his young wife up in a

darkened and padded cell, and finally had her cut into pieces by two

surgeons," so the story goes. Terrified at what he had done and of

the consequences which were sure to follow when the King heard of

his savagery, the Count fled the country immediately afterward.

The château of Brodineuf (dating from the twelfth century) and that of

Caradeuc are in good repair, but the latter is ancient only in parts.

It shelters two Murillos within its walls. The picturesque château of

Combourg was in early times a feudal fortress, and in it René

Châteaubriand's infancy was passed. This place may be visited by

interested sightseers, and there they may view the writing-table of

the author of _Le Génie du Christianisme_, and, in the bedroom he

occupied at Combourg, the bed on which he died in Paris. The château

of Vitré is also in a state of preservation, and is considered one of

the best specimens of military architecture in the province.

Comparatively near is the château of Rochers, once the home of Mme de

Sévigné, and in consequence one of the famous sights of the country.

The many letters she dated from this castle paint a vivid and detailed

picture of social life in the seventeenth century, and fortunately the

atmosphere of the time has been happily retained in the building

itself.

Another twelfth-century structure is that of the château of Rustefan,

near Quimperlé. It was built by Stephen, Count of Penthièvre, and

belonged in the next century to Blanche of Castile, the mother of St

Louis. The ruins now in existence are those of the château built in

the fifteenth century, and its cylindrical tower, pinnacled doorway,

and the stone mullions of the windows still remain fairly intact. The

château of Kerjolet, in Concarneau, is one which has been saved from

decay, restored as it was by Countess Chaveau-Narishkine and presented

by her to the department. It contains a museum in which are specimens

of all the costumes and _coiffes_ of Lower Brittany, and antiquities

of prehistoric and medieval times, which all students of Breton and

Celtic lore should see.

_Palaces of the Past_

The château of Tourlaville is situated among very beautiful

surroundings, and is built in the classic style of the Renaissance,

with an angular tower. On chimney-piece and fireplace throughout the

castle there are numerous sentimental devices in which Cupids and

flaming hearts and torches figure largely, with the occasional

accompaniment of verses and mottoes of an equally amatory nature.

These are all seventeenth-century examples and may be taken as

expressions of the time. In a boudoir called the Blue Chamber, because

of the colour of its draperies and decorations, many coats-of-arms are

emblazoned; but all the greatness to which these testify has become a

thing of the past, for the château has now been turned into a

farmhouse.

The château of Dinan may also be classed among the palaces of the

past, for now, despite the fact that it was built by the Dukes of

Brittany, it has become a prison. From the tourist as well as the

romantic point of view this is somewhat of a tragedy. The Tower of

Coëtquen, one of the ancient towers of the city wall, is practically

part of the castle, and the keep, or Queen Anne's Tower, is the most

distinctive feature remaining. This keep is of four stories, and is

over a hundred feet high, the last story being reached by a spiral

staircase. What was once the oratory of the Duchess Anne is now the

guard-room. There are still several dungeons whose original

gruesomeness has been left untouched, and whose use in bygone days can

well be imagined.

_Suscino_

The château of Suscino is one of the chief sights of the neighbourhood

of Vannes, because it is the ruin of what was once a marvellous

structure of the thirteenth century, and follows the finest Gothic

traditions of the time. All the roofing of the building has quite

disappeared, but its battlemented towers and walls remain to give a

good idea of the architectural perfection that must have belonged to

it. At one time it fell into the hands of Charles of Blois, only to be

retaken by his rival, Montfort, in 1364, and in 1373 it was occupied

by an English garrison. Eventually it was bestowed upon John of

Châlons, Prince of Orange, by Anne of Brittany, but in time Francis I

relieved him of it in order to present it to Françoise de Foix, the

celebrated Lady of Châteaubriant. The irregular pentagon formed by the

château is possibly somewhat modified from the original plan of 1320,

and of the seven towers which flanked its gates and walls in the

beginning six have weathered the storms of the times through which

they have passed. Its orchid-shaped machicolations have also survived,

and even to-day they are noticeably beautiful. The new tower is a fine

cylindrical keep, dating from the fourteenth century, and over the

entrance this legend still remains:

Ici Est Né

Le Duc Arthur III

le 24 Août, 1393.

We have already dealt with many of the stories connected with the

ancient castles of Brittany, and these will be found in nearly

every chapter of this book, so varied are they. But no tale, however

vivid, can hope to capture and retain all the wonder and mystery of

these grand old strongholds, which must be seen in order to leave

upon the imagination and memory the full impress of their weird and

extraordinary fascination.

FOOTNOTES:

[40] _Folk-lore as an Historical Science_, p. 129.

[41] _Western France_, vol. ii.

[42] See Le Braz, _La Légende de la Mort_, t. i, p. 39, t. ii, pp. 37

ff.; Albert Le Grand, _Vies des Saints de la Bretagne_, p. 63;

Villemarqué, _Chants populaires_, pp. 38 ff.

[43] See MacCulloch, _Religion of the Ancient Celts_, p. 372 and

notes.

[44] MacCulloch, _op. cit._, p. 274.

[45] Villemarqué avouches that this version was taken down by his

mother from the lips of an old peasant woman of the parish of

Névez. It bears the stamp of ballad poetry, and as it has

parallels in the folk-verse of other countries I see no reason

to question its genuineness.

[46] See "Maro Markiz Gwerrand," in the _Bulletin de la Société

Académique de Brest_, 1865.

Legends & Romances of Brittany · 第 7 / 13 章