IV

... It is a breezeless and cloudless noon. Under the dazzling downpour

of light the hills seem to smoke blue: something like a thin yellow fog

haloes the leagues of ripening cane,--a vast reflection. There is no

stir in all the green mysterious front of the vine-veiled woods. The

palms of the roads keep their heads quite still, as if listening. The

canes do not utter a single susurration. Rarely is there such absolute

stillness among them: upon the calmest days there are usually rustlings

audible, thin cracklings, faint creepings: sounds that betray the

passing of some little animal or reptile--a rat or a manicou, or a

zanoli or couresse,--more often, however, no harmless lizard or snake,

but the deadly fer-de-lance. To-day, all these seem to sleep; and there

are no workers among the cane to clear away the weeds,--to uproot the

_pié-treffe, pié-poule, pié-balai, zhèbe-en-mè_: it is the hour of

rest.

[Illustration: PITONS DU CARBET

"_The horizon is almost wholly hidden by surging of

hills: silhouettes of blue and violet... a vapory huddling

of prodigious shapes._"]

A woman is coming along the road,--young, very swarthy, very tall, and

barefooted, and black-robed: she wears a high white turban with dark

stripes, and a white foulard is thrown about her fine shoulders; she

bears no burden, and walks very swiftly and noiselessly.... Soundless as

shadow the motion of all these naked-footed people is. On any quiet

mountain-way, full of curves, where you fancy yourself alone, you may

often be startled by something you _feel_, rather than hear, behind

you,--surd steps, the springy movement of a long lithe body, dumb

oscillations of raiment;--and ere you can turn to look, the haunter

swiftly passes with creole greeting of "bonjou'" or "bonsouè, Missié."

This sudden "becoming aware" in broad daylight of a living presence

unseen is even more disquieting than that sensation which, in absolute

darkness, makes one halt all breathlessly before great solid objects,

whose proximity has been revealed by some mute blind emanation of force

alone. But it is very seldom, indeed, that the negro or half-breed is

thus surprised: he seems to divine an advent by some specialized

sense,--like an animal,--and to become conscious of a look directed upon

him from any distance or from behind any covert;--to pass within the

range of his keen vision unnoticed is almost impossible.... And the

approach of this woman has been already observed by the habitants of the

ajoupas;--dark faces peer out from windows and door-ways;--one

half-nude laborer even strolls out to the road-side under the sun to

watch her coming. He looks a moment, turns to the hut again, and

calls:--

--"Ou-ou! Fafa!"

--"Êti! Gabou!"

--"Vini ti bouin!--mi bel négresse!"

Two years in the French West Indies · 第 70 / 176 题