IX

Forty to fifty miles a day, always under a weight of more than a hundred

pounds,--for when the trait has been emptied she puts in stones for

ballast;--carrying her employer's merchandise and money over the

mountain ranges, beyond the peaks, across the ravines, through the

tropical forest, sometimes through by-ways haunted by the

fer-de-lance,--and this in summer or winter, the season of rains or the

season of heat, the time of fevers or the time of hurricanes, at a franc

a day!... How does she live upon it?

[Illustration: FORT-DE-FRANCE

_View from the old fortifications. In the distance

the bay, and beyond Trois Islets, where

Josephine was born._]

There are twenty sous to the franc. The girl leaves St. Pierre with her

load at early morning. At the second village, Morne Rouge, she halts to

buy one, two, or three biscuits at a sou apiece; and reaching

Ajoupa-Bouillon later in the forenoon, she may buy another biscuit or

two. Altogether she may be expected to eat five sous of biscuit or bread

before reaching Grande Anse, where she probably has a meal waiting for

her. This ought to cost her ten sous,--especially if there be meat in

her ragoût: which represents a total expense of fifteen sous for

eatables. Then there is the additional cost of the cheap liquor, which

she must mix with her drinking-water, as it would be more than dangerous

to swallow pure cold water in her heated condition; two or three sous

more. This almost makes the franc. But such a hasty and really erroneous

estimate does not include expenses of lodging and clothing;--she may

sleep on the bare floor sometimes, and twenty francs a year may keep her

in clothes; but she must rent the floor and pay for the clothes out of

that franc. As a matter of fact she not only does all this upon her

twenty sous a day, but can even economize something which will enable

her, when her youth and force decline, to start in business for herself.

And her economy will not seem so wonderful when I assure you that

thousands of men here--huge men muscled like bulls and lions—-live upon

an average expenditure of five sous a day. One sou of bread, two sous of

manioc flour, one sou of dried codfish, one sou of tafia: such is their

meal.

There are women carriers who earn more than a franc a day,--women with a

particular talent for selling, who are paid on commission--from ten to

fifteen per cent. These eventually make themselves independent in many

instances;--they continue to sell and bargain in person, but hire a

young girl to carry the goods.

X

... "_Ou 'lè mâchonne!_" rings out a rich alto, resonant as the tone

of a gong, from behind the balisiers that shut in our garden. There are

two of them--no, three--Maiyotte, Chéchelle, and Rina. Maiyotte and

Chéchelle have just arrived from St. Pierre;--Rina comes from

Gros-Morne with fruits and vegetables. Suppose we call them all in, and

see what they have got. Maiyotte and Chéchelle sell on commission; Rina

sells for her mother, who has a little garden at Gros-Morne.

... "_Bonjou', Maiyotte;--bonjou', Chéchelle! comment ou kallé, Rina,

chè!_"... Throw open the folding-doors to let the great trays pass....

Now all three are unloaded by old Théréza and by young Adou;--all the

packs are on the floor, and the water-proof wrappings are being

uncorded, while Ah-Manmzell, the adopted child, brings the rum and water

for the tall walkers.

... "Oh, what a medley, Maiyotte!"... Inkstands and wooden cows; purses

and paper dogs and cats; dolls and cosmetics; pins and needles and soap

and tooth-brushes; candied fruits and smoking-caps; _pelotes_ of thread,

and tapes, and ribbons, and laces, and Madeira wine; cuffs, and collars,

and dancing-shoes, and tobacco sachets.... But what is in that little

flat bundle? Presents for your _guêpe_, if you have one....

_Jesis-Maïa!_--the pretty foulards! Azure and yellow in checkerings;

orange and crimson in stripes; rose and scarlet in plaidings; and bronze

tints, and beetle-tints of black and green.

"Chéchelle, what a _bloucoutoum_ if you should ever let that tray

fall--_aïe yaïe yaïe!_" Here is a whole shop of crockeries and

porcelains;--plates, dishes, cups,--earthen-ware _canaris_ and

_dobannes_; and gift-mugs and cups bearing creole girls' names,--all

names that end in _ine_: "Micheline, Honorine, Prospérine" [you will

never sell that, Chéchelle: there is not a Prospérine this side of St.

Pierre], "Azaline, Leontine, Zéphyrine, Albertine, Chrysaline, Florine,

Coralline, Alexandrine."... And knives and forks, and cheap spoons, and

tin coffee-pots, and tin rattles for babies, and tin flutes for horrid

little boys,--and pencils and note-paper and envelopes!...

... "Oh, Rina, what superb oranges!--fully twelve inches round!...

and these, which look something like our mandarins, what do

you call them? Zorange-macaque!" (monkey-oranges). And here are

avocados--beauties!--guavas of three different kinds,--tropical cherries

(which have four seeds instead of one),--tropical raspberries, whereof

the entire eatable portion comes off in one elastic piece, lined with

something like white silk.... Here are fresh nutmegs: the thick green

case splits in equal halves at a touch; and see the beautiful heart

within,--deep dark glossy red, all wrapped in a bright net-work of flat

blood-colored fibre, spun over it like branching veins.... This big

heavy red-and-yellow thing is a _pomme-cythère_: the smooth cuticle,

bitter as gall, covers a sweet juicy pulp, interwoven with something

that seems like cotton thread.... Here is a _pomme-cannelle_: inside its

scaly covering is the most delicious yellow custard conceivable with

little black seeds floating in it. This larger _corossol_ has almost as

delicate an interior, only the custard is white instead of yellow....

Here are _christophines_,--great pear-shaped things, white and green,

according to kind, with a peel prickly and knobby as the skin of a homed

toad; but they stew exquisitely. And _mélongènes_, or egg-plants; and

palmiste-pith, and _chadèques_, and _pommes-d'Haïti_,--and roots that

at first sight look all alike, but they are not: there are _camanioc_,

and couscous, and _choux-caraïbes_, and _zignames_, and various kinds

of patates among them. Old Théréza's magic will transform these

shapeless muddy things, before evening, into pyramids of smoking

gold,--into odorous porridges that will look like messes of molten amber

and liquid pearl;--for Rina makes a good sale.

Then Chéchelle manages to dispose of a tin coffee-pot and a big

canari.... And Maiyotte makes the best sale of all; for the sight of a

funny _biscuit_ doll has made Ah-Manmzell cry and smile so at the same

time that I should feel unhappy for the rest of my life if I did not buy

it for her. I know I ought to get some change out of that six

francs;--and Maiyotte, who is black but comely as the tents of Kedar, as

the curtains of Solomon, seems to be aware of the fact.

Oh, Maiyotte, how plaintive that pretty sphinx face of yours, now turned

in profile;--as if you knew you looked beautiful thus,--with the great

gold circlets of your ears glittering and swaying as you bend! And why

are you so long, so long untying that poor little canvas

purse?--fumbling and fingering it?--is it because you want me to think

of the weight of that trait and the sixty kilometres you must walk, and

the heat, and dust, and all the disappointments? Ah, you are cunning,

Maiyotte! No, I do not want the change!

Two years in the French West Indies · 第 51 / 176 题