XVI

... If it is possible for a West Indian forest to be described at all,

it could not be described more powerfully than it has been by Dr. E.

Rufz, a creole of Martinique, from one of whose works I venture to

translate the following remarkable pages:

... "The sea alone, because it is the most colossal of earthly

spectacles,--only the sea can afford us any term of comparison for the

attempt to describe a _grand-bois_;--but even then one must imagine the

sea on a day of storm, suddenly immobilized in the expression of its

mightiest fury. For the summits of these vast woods repeat all the

inequalities of the land they cover; and these inequalities are

mountains from 4200 to 4800 feet in height, and valleys of corresponding

profundity. All this is hidden, blended together, smoothed over by

verdure, in soft and enormous undulations,--in immense billowings of

foliage. Only, instead of a blue line at the horizon, you have a green

line; instead of flashings of blue, you have flashings of green,--and in

all the tints, in all the combinations of which green is capable: deep

green, light green, yellow-green, black-green.

"When your eyes grow weary--if it indeed be possible for them to

weary--of contemplating the exterior of these tremendous woods, try to

penetrate a little into their interior. What an inextricable chaos it

is! The sands of a sea are not more closely pressed together than the

trees are here: some straight, some curved, some upright, some

toppling,--fallen, or leaning against one another, or heaped high upon

each other. Climbing lianas, which cross from one tree to the other,

like ropes passing from mast to mast, help to fill up all the gaps in

this treillage; and parasites--not timid parasites like ivy or like

moss, but parasites which are trees self-grafted upon trees--dominate

the primitive trunks, overwhelm them, usurp the place of their foliage,

and fall back to the ground, forming factitious weeping-willows. You do

not find here, as in the great forests of the North, the eternal

monotony of birch and fir: this is the kingdom of infinite

variety;--species the most diverse elbow each other, interlace, strangle

and devour each other: all ranks and orders are confounded, as in a

human mob. The soft and tender _balisier_ opens its parasol of leaves

beside the _gommier_, which is the cedar of the colonies;--you see the

_acomat_, the _courbaril_, the mahogany, the _tendre-à-caillou_, the

iron-wood... but as well enumerate by name all the soldiers of an army!

Our oak, the balata, forces the palm to lengthen itself prodigiously in

order to get a few thin beams of sunlight; for it is as difficult here

for the poor trees to obtain one glance from this King of the world, as

for us, subjects of a monarchy, to obtain one look from our monarch. As

for the soil, it is needless to think of looking at it: it lies as far

below us probably as the bottom of the sea;--it disappeared, ever so

long ago, under the heaping of débris,--under a sort of manure that has

been accumulating there since the creation: you sink into it as into

slime; you walk upon putrefied trunks, in a dust that has no name! Here

indeed it is that one can get some comprehension of what vegetable

antiquity signifies;--a lurid light (_lurida lux_), greenish, as wan at

noon as the light of the moon at midnight, confuses forms and lends them

a vague and fantastic aspect; a mephitic humidity exhales from all

parts; an odor of death prevails; and a calm which is not silence (for

the ear fancies it can hear the great movement of composition and of

decomposition perpetually going on) tends to inspire you with that old

mysterious horror which the ancients felt in the primitive forests of

Germany and of Gaul:"

"'Arboribus suus horror inest.'"[3]

[Footnote 3: "Enquête sur le Serpent de la Martinique (Vipère Fer-de-Lance,

Bothrops Lancéolé, etc.)." Par le Docteur E. Rufs. 2 ed. 1859 Paris:

Germer-Ballière, pp. 55-57 (note).]

Two years in the French West Indies · 第 26 / 176 题