VISIT TO BRUGES AND GHENT (April 6-11, 1521)

On the Saturday after Easter, with Hans Luber and Master Jan

Prevost, a good painter born at Bruges, I set out from

Antwerp towards Bruges by way of the Scheldt and came to

Beveren, a large village. From there to Vracene, also a big

village; thence we passed through some villages and came to

a fine large village, where the rich farmers live, and there

we breakfasted. Thence we journeyed towards St. Paul's, the

rich abbey, and went through Caudenborn, a fine village;

thence through the large village of Kalve, and thence to

Ertvelde; there we lay the night and started early on Sunday

morning and came from Ertvelde to a small town. From that we

went to Ecloo, which is a mighty large village; it is

plastered, and has a square; there we breakfasted. Thence we

went to Maldegem, and then through other villages, and came

to Bruges--which is a fine noble town. I paid 21 stivers for

fare and other expenses. And arriving at Bruges, Jan Prevost

took me into his house to lodge, and the same night prepared

a costly meal, and asked much company to meet me.

The next day Marx, the goldsmith, invited me, and gave me a

costly meal and asked many to meet me; afterwards they took

me to see the Emperor's house, which is large and splendid.

There I saw the chapel which Roger painted, and some

pictures by a great old artist. I gave the man who showed

them to us 1 stiver; afterwards I bought two ivory combs for

30 stivers. Thence they took me to St. James's and let me

see the splendid paintings of Roger and Hugo, who are both

great masters. Afterwards I saw the alabaster Madonna in Our

Lady's Church that Michelangelo of Rome made; afterwards

they took me to many churches and let me see all the fine

paintings, of which there is abundance there, and when I had

seen the Jan [Van Eyck] and all the other things, we came at

last to the Painters' Chapel, in which there are good

things. Then they prepared a banquet for me, and I went

thence with them to their guildhall; there were many

honourable men gathered together, goldsmiths, painters, and

merchants, and they made me sup with them, and they gave me

presents and sought my acquaintance and did me great honour;

and the two brothers Jacob and Peter Mostaert, the town

councilors, gave me twelve cans of wine, and the whole

assembly, more than sixty persons, accompanied me home with

many torches. I also saw in their shooting gallery the great

fish tub from which they eat, which is 19 feet long, 7 high,

and 7 broad.

Early on Tuesday we departed, but before that, I did Jan

Prevost's portrait in silverpoint, and gave his wife 10

stivers at parting. And so we traveled to Ursel; there we

breakfasted. On the way there are three villages. Then we

traveled towards Ghent, again through three villages, and I

paid 4 stivers for the journey, and 4 stivers for expenses;

and on my arrival at Ghent, there came to me the dean of the

painters and brought with him the first masters in painting;

they showed me great honour, received me most courteously,

and commended to me their good-will and service, and supped

with me. On Wednesday early they took me to the tower of St.

John's, whence I looked all over the great and wonderful

town, where I had just been treated as a great person.

Afterwards I saw the Jan [Van Eyck's] picture, which is a

very splendid, deeply studied painting, and especially the

"Eve," the "Mary," and "God the Father" were extremely good.

Then I saw the lions and drew one of them in silverpoint;

also I saw on the bridge, where men are beheaded, two

pictures which were made as a sign that there a son had

beheaded his father. Ghent is beautiful and a wonderful

town; four great waters flow through it. I gave 3 stivers as

a tip to the sacristan and the lions' keeper. I saw many

other remarkable things in Ghent, and the painters with

their dean did not forget me, but ate with me morning and

evening, and paid for everything, and were very friendly. I

gave away 3 stivers at the inn on leaving. Then early on

Thursday I set out from Ghent and came through various

villages to the inn called "The Swan," where we breakfasted;

thence we passed through a beautiful village and came to

Antwerp, and I paid 8 stivers for the fare.

Records of Journeys to Venice and the Low Countries · 第 29 / 31 题