VISIT TO ZEELAND (December 3-14, 1520)

On St. Barbara's Eve I traveled from Antwerp to Bergen-op-

Zoom; I paid 2 stivers for the horse, and I spent 1 florin 6

stivers here. At Bergen I bought my wife a thin

Netherlandish head cloth, which cost 1 florin, 7 stivers,

besides 6 stivers for three pairs of shoes, 1 stiver for

eyeglasses, and 6 stivers for an ivory button; gave 2

stivers for a tip. I have drawn the portraits in charcoal of

Jan de Has, his wife, and two daughters; and the maid and

the old woman in silverpoint, in my sketch-book. I saw the

Van Bergen house, which is a very large and beautiful

building. Bergen is a pleasant place in summer, and two

great fairs are held there yearly.

On Our Lady's Eve I started with my companions for Zeeland,

and Sebastian Imhof lent me five florins; and the first

night we lay at anchor in the sea; it was very cold and we

had neither food nor drink. On Saturday we came to Goes, and

there I drew a girl in the costume of the place. Thence we

traveled to Arnemuiden, and I paid 15 stivers for expenses.

We went by a sunken place, where we saw the tops of the

roofs standing up above the water, and we went by the island

of Wolfersdyk, and passed the little town Kortgene on

another island lying near. Zeeland has seven islands, and

Arnemuiden, where I lay the night, is the biggest. From

there I traveled to Middelburg. There in the abbey Jan de

Mabuse has made a great picture, not so good in the drawing

as in the colouring. From there I went to the Veere, where

ships from all lands lie. It is a very fine little town.

But at Arnemuiden, where I landed, there happened to me a

great misfortune. As we were coming to land and getting out

our rope, just as we were getting on shore, a great ship ran

into us so hard that in the crush I let everyone get out

before me, so that no one but myself, George Kotzler, two

old women, the sailor, and a little boy were left in the

ship. When now the other ship knocked against us and I with

those mentioned was on the ship and could not get out, the

strong rope broke, and at the same moment a violent storm of

wind arose which forcibly drove back our ship. So we all

called for help, but no one would risk himself, and the wind

carried us back out to sea. Then the skipper tore his hair

and cried aloud, for all his men had landed and the ship was

unmanned. It was a matter of fear and danger, for there was

a great wind and no more than six persons in the ship, so I

spoke to the skipper that he should take heart and have hope

in God, and should take thought for what was to be done. He

said that if he could pull up the small sail, he would try

if we could come again to land. So we all helped one another

and pulled it half-way up with difficulty, and went on again

towards the land. And when those on the land who had already

given us up saw how we helped ourselves, they too came to

our aid, and we got to land.

Middelburg is a good town; it has a very beautiful town hall

with a fine tower. There is much art shown in all things

here. There are very rich and beautiful stalls in the abbey,

and a splendid gallery of stone and a beautiful parish

church. The town is excellent for sketching. Zeeland is

beautiful and wonderful to see on account of the water, for

it stands higher than the land.

I have made a portrait of my host at Arnemuiden. Master

Hugo, Alexander Imhof, and the Hirschvogel's servant

Frederick gave me each of them an Indian nut that they had

won at play, and the host gave me a sprouting bulb.

Early on Monday morning we went back to the ship and set out

for the Veere and for Zierikzee; I wanted to get sight of

the great fish, but the tide had carried it off again. I

paid 2 florins for fare and expenses and 2 florins for a

rug, 4 stivers for a fig-cheese and 3 stivers for carriage,

and I lost 6 stivers at play. When we came back to Bergen I

gave 10 stivers for an ivory comb.

I have taken Schnabhan's portrait, and I have also taken the

portrait of my host's son-in-law, Klautz. Gave 2 florins

less 5 stivers for a piece of tin; also 2 florins for a bad

piece of tin. I have also taken the portrait of little

Bernard of Brussels, George Kotzler, and the Frenchman from

Kamrick; each of them gave me 1 florin at Bergen. Jan de

Has' son-in-law gave me 1 Horn florin for his portrait, and

Kerpen of Cologne also gave me a florin, and besides this I

bought two bed-covers for 4 florins less 10 stivers. I have

made the portrait of Nicolas, the jeweler. These are the

number of times that I have dined at Bergen since I came

from Zeeland: IIIIIIIII and once for 4 stivers. I paid the

driver 3 stivers and spent 8 stivers, and came back to

Antwerp, to Jobst Planckfelt's, on Friday after St. Lucy's,

1520, and I have dined this number of times with him: IIII.

It is paid, and my wife: IIII, and that is paid.

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