On Thursday after St. Kilian's Day, I, Albrecht Dürer, at my
own charges and costs, took myself and my wife from
Nuremberg away to the Netherlands, and the same day, after
we had passed through Eriangen, we put up for the night at
Baiersdorff, and spent there 3 crowns, less 6 pfennigs. From
thence on the next day, Friday, we came to Forchheim, and
there paid for the conveying thence on the journey to
Bamberg 22 pf., and presented to the Bishop a painted Virgin
and a "Life of the Virgin," an "Apocalypse," and a florin's
worth of engravings. He invited me to be his guest, gave me
a toll-pass and three letters of introduction, and settled
my bill at the inn, where I had spent about a florin. I paid
6 florins in gold to the boatmen who took me from Bamberg to
Frankfurt. Master Lucas Benedict and Hans the painter sent
me a present of wine. Spent 4 pf. for bread and 13 pf. as
tips.
Then I journeyed from Bamberg to Eltman and showed my pass,
and they let me go free. And from there we passed by Zeil;
in the meantime I spent 21 pf. Next I came to Hassfurt, and
showed my pass, and they let me go without paying duty;
I paid 1 florin to the Bishop of Bamberg's chancery. Next I
came to Theres to the monastery, and I showed my pass, and
they also let me go free; then we journeyed to Lower
Euerheim. There I stayed the night and spent I pf. Thence
we went to Meinberg, and I showed my papers and was allowed
to pass. Then we came to Schweinfurt, where Dr. George
Rebart invited me, and he gave us wine in the boat: they let
me also pass free. 10 pf. for a roast fowl, 18 pf. in the
kitchen and to the boy. Then we traveled to Volkach and I
showed my pass, and we went on and came to Schwarzach, and
there we stopped the night and spent 22 pf., and on Monday
we were up early and went toward Tettelbach and came to
Kitzingen, and I showed my letter, and they let me go on,
and I spent 37 pf. After that we went past Sulzfeld to
Marktbreit, and I showed my letter and they let me through,
and we traveled by Frickenhausen to Ochsenfurth, where I
showed my pass and they let me go free: and we came to
Eibelstadt, and from that to Haidingsfeldt, and thence to
Wurzburg; there I showed my pass and they let me go free.
Thence we journeyed to Erlabrunn and stopped the night
there, and I spent 22 pf. From that we journeyed on past
Retzbath and Zellingen and came to Karlstadt; here I showed
my pass and they let me go on. Thence I traveled to Gmunden,
and there we breakfasted and spent 22 pf. I also showed my
pass, and they let me go free. We traveled thence to
Hofstetten; I showed my pass, and they let me through. We
came next to Lohr, where I showed my pass and passed on;
from there we came to Neustadt and showed our letter, and
they let us travel on; also I paid 10 pf. for wine and
crabs. From there we came to Rothenfels, and I showed my
pass, and they let me go free, and we stayed there for a
night, and spent 20 pf.; and on Wednesday early we started
and passed by St. Eucharius and came to Heidenfeld, and
thence to Triefenstein; from there we came to Homburg, where
I showed my pass and they let me through; from there we came
to Wertheim, and I showed my letter, and they let me go
free, and I spent 57 pf. From there we went to Prozelten;
here I showed my pass, and they let me through. Next we went
on past Freudenberg, where I showed my letter once more, and
they let me through; from there we came to Miltenberg and
stayed there over night, and I also showed my pass and they
let me go, and I spent 61 pf.; from there we came to
Klingenberg. I showed my pass and they let me through; and
we came to Worth and from there passed Obernburg to
Aschaffenburg; here I presented my pass and they let me
through, and I spent 52 pf.; from there we journeyed on to
Selgenstadt; from there to Steinheim, where I showed my
letter and they let me go on, and we stayed with Johannes
for the night, who showed us the town and was very friendly
to us; there I spent 16 pf., and so early on Friday morning
we traveled to Kesselstadt, where I showed my pass and they
let me go on; from there we came to Frankfurt, and I showed
my pass again, and they let me through, and I spent 6 white
pf. and one thaler and a half, and I gave the boy 2 white
pf. Herr Jacob Heller gave me some wine at the inn. I
bargained to be taken with my goods from Frankfurt to Mainz
for 1 florin and 2 white pf., and I also gave the lad 5
Frankfurt thaler, and for the night we spent 8 white pf. On
Sunday I traveled by the early boat from Frankfurt to Mainz,
and midway there we came to Hochst, where I showed my pass
and they let me go on; I spent 8 Frankfurt pf. there. From
there we journeyed to Mainz; I have also paid I white pf.
for landing my things, besides 14 Frankfurt thaler to the
boatmen and 18 pf. for a girdle; and I took passage in the
Cologne boat for myself and my things for 3 florins, and at
Mainz also I spent 17 white pf. Peter Goldschmidt, the
warden there, gave me two bottles of wine. Veit Varnbuler
invited me, but his host would take no payment from him,
insisting on being my host himself; they showed me much
honour.
So I started from Mainz, where the Main flows into the
Rhine, and it was the Monday after Mary Magdalen's Day, and
I paid 10 thaler for meat and bread, and for eggs and pears
9 thaler. Here, too, Leonhard Goldschmidt gave me wine and
fowls in the boat to cook on the way to Cologne. Master
Jobst's brother likewise gave me a bottle of wine, and the
painters gave me two bottles of wine in the boat. From there
we came to Elfeld, where I showed my letter and they took no
toll; from there we came to Rudesheim and I gave 2 white pf.
for loading the boat; then we came to Ehrenfels, and there I
showed my letter, but I had to give two gold florins; if,
however, I were to bring them a free pass within two months,
the customs officer would give me back the 2 gold florins.
From there we came to Bacharach, and there I had to promise
in writing that I would either bring them a free pass in two
months, or pay the toll; from there we came to Caub, and
there again I showed my pass, but it would carry me no
further, and I had to promise in writing as before; there I
spent 11 thaler. Next we came to St. Goar, and here I showed
my pass, and the customs officer asked me how they had
treated me elsewhere, so I said I would pay him nothing; I
gave 2 white pf. to the messenger. From there we came to
Boppard, and I showed my pass to the Trier customhouse
officer, and they let me go through, only I had to certify
in writing under my seal that I carried no common
merchandise, and then the man let me go willingly.
From there we came to Lahnstein, and I showed my pass, and
the customs officer let me go through, but he asked me that
I should speak for him to my most gracious Lord of Mainz,
and he gave me a can of wine, too, for he knew my wife well
and he was glad to see me. From there we came to Engers,
which is in the Trier territory; I presented my pass and
they let me go through; I said, too, that I would mention it
to my Lord of Bamberg. From there we came to Andernach, and
I showed my pass, and they let me go through; and I spent
there 7 thaler and 4 thaler more; then on St. James's Day
early I traveled from Andernach to Linz; from there we went
to the custom house at Bonn, and there again they let me go
through; from there we came to Cologne, and in the boat I
spent 9 white pf. and I more, and 4 pf. for fruit. At
Cologne I spent 7 white pf. for unloading, to the boatmen 14
thaler, and to Nicolas, my cousin, I made a present of my
black fur-lined coat edged with velvet, and to his wife I
gave a florin; also at Cologne Fugger gave me wine: Johann
Grosserpecker also gave me wine, and my cousin Nicolas gave
me wine. They gave us also a collation at the Barefoot
Convent, and one of the monks gave me a handkerchief;
moreover, Herr Johann Grosserpecker has given me 12 measures
of the best wine, and I paid 2 white pf. and 8 thaler to the
boy; I have spent besides at Cologne 2 florins and 14 white
pf. and 10 white pf. for packing, and 3 pf. for fruit;
further, I gave I pf. at leaving, and I white pf. to the
messenger.
From there we journeyed on St. Pantaleon's Day from Cologne
to a village called Busdorf. We lay there over night, and
spent 3 white pf.; and early on Sunday, we traveled to
Rodingen, where we had breakfast and spent 2 white pf. and 3
pf. more, and again 3 pf. Thence we came to Frei-Aldenhoven,
where we lay the night, and spent 3 white pf.; thence we
traveled early on Monday to Frelenberg, and passed the
little town of Gangelt, breakfasting at a village called
Stisterseel, and spent 2 white pf. 2 thaler, further 1 white
pf., and again 2 white pf. From there we journeyed to
Sittard, a pretty little town, and from there to Stocken,
which belongs to Liege; where we had a fine inn and stayed
there over night, and spent 4 white pf. And when we had
crossed over the Maas we started off early on Tuesday
morning and came to Merten Lewbehen [sic]: there we had
breakfast and spent 2 stivers and gave a white pf. for a
young fowl. From there we traveled across the heath and came
to Stosser, where we spent 2 stivers, and lay there the
night: from thence on Wednesday morning early we traveled to
West Meerbeck, where I paid 3 stivers for bread and wine;
and we went on as far as Branthoek, where we had breakfast
and spent 1 stiver; from there we traveled to Uylenberg,
where we stayed the night and spent 3 stivers; from there we
traveled on Thursday early to op ten Kouys, where we
breakfasted and spent 2 stivers; thence we came to Antwerp.
There I sent to Jobst Planckfelt's inn, and the same evening
the Fugger's factor, by name Bernhard Stecher, invited me
and gave us a costly meal--my wife dined at the inn. I paid
the driver for bringing us three, 3 florins in gold, and 2
stivers for carrying the goods.
On Saturday after the Feast of St. Peter in Chains, my host
took me to see the burgomaster's house at Antwerp, which is
newly built and large beyond measure, very well arranged
with extraordinarily beautiful large rooms; a tower,
splendidly ornamented; a very large garden; in short, such a
noble house as I have never seen in all German lands. A very
long new street has been built in his honour, and with his
assistance, leading up to the house on both sides. I gave 3
stivers to the messenger, and 2 pf. for bread and 2 pf. for
ink; and on Sunday, which was St. Oswald's Day, the Painters
invited me to their hall with my wife and maid, where
everything was of silver, and they had other costly
ornaments and very costly meats; and all their wives were
there too; and as I was being led to the table, everyone on
both sides stood up as if they were leading some great lord.
There were among them men of high position, who all showed
me the greatest respect and bowed low to me, and said they
would do everything in their power to serve and please me.
And as I sat there in honour, there came the messenger of
the Town Council of Antwerp with two servants and presented
to me four cans of wine from the Magistrates of Antwerp, who
told him to say that they wished thereby to show their
respect for me and to assure me of their good-will;
wherefore I returned them my humble thanks and offered my
humble services. Thereupon came Master Peter, the town
carpenter, and gave me two cans of wine with offer of his
willing service; so when we had spent a long time together
merrily, till late into the night, they accompanied us home
with lanterns in great honour. They begged me to be assured
of their good-will, and promised that in whatever I did they
would help me in every way; so I thanked them, and laid down
to sleep.
Also I have been in Master Quentin's house, and I have been
in all the three great shooting places. [Editor's note:
Quentin Matsys, the painter]. I had a very splendid dinner
at Staiber's. Another time at the Portuguese factor's, whose
portrait I have drawn in charcoal; I have made a portrait of
my host as well; Jobst Plankfelt gave me a branch of white
coral; paid 2 stivers for butter and 2 stivers to the joiner
at the Painters' armoury.
Also my host took me to the Painters' workshop in the
armoury at Antwerp, where they are making the triumphal
arches through which King Charles is to make his entry. It
is 400 bows in length and each arch is 40 feet wide: they
are to be set up on both sides of the streets, beautifully
arranged and two stories high, and on them they are to act
the plays; and this costs to make, 4,000 florins for the
joiners and painters, and the whole work is very
magnificently done.
I have dined again with the Portuguese factor, and once with
Alexander Imhof. Sebald Fischer bought of me at Antwerp
sixteen "Small Passions" for 4 florins, thirty-two of the
large books for 8 florins, also six engraved "Passions" for
3 florins, also twenty half-sheets of all kinds taken
together at 1 florin to the value of 3 florins, and again 5
1/4 florins' worth of quarter-sheets,--forty-five of all
kinds at 1 florin, and eight miscellaneous leaves at 1
florin; it is paid.
To my host I have sold a "Madonna" picture, painted on small
canvas, for 2 florins Rhenish. I took once more the portrait
of Felix the lute player. 1 stiver for pears and bread; 2
stivers to the surgeon-barber: besides I have given 14
stivers for three small panels, besides 4 stivers for laying
in the white and preparing them. I have dined once with
Alexander the goldsmith, and once with Felix Hungersberg;
once Master Joachim has eaten with me, and his partner also
once.
I have made a drawing in half colours for the Painters. I
have taken 1 florin for expenses. I made Peter Wolffgang a
present of four new little pieces. Master Joachim's partner
has again dined with me. I gave Master Joachim 1 florin's
worth of prints for lending me his apprentice and colours,
and I gave his apprentice 3 crowns' worth of prints. I have
sent the four new pieces to Alexander, the goldsmith. I made
charcoal portraits of these Genoese by name: Tomasin
Florianus Romanus, native of Lucca, and his two brothers,
named Vincentius and Gerhard, all three Bombelli.
I have dined with Tomasin so often: IIIIIIIIIIII. The
treasurer also gave me a "Child's Head" on linen and a
weapon from Calicut, and one of the light wood reeds.
Tomasin Imhof has also given me a plaited hat of elder pith.
I dined once more with the Portuguese; I also gave one of
Tomasin's brothers 3 florins' worth of engravings. Herr
Erasmus has given me a small Spanish mantilla and three
portraits of men. Tomasin's brother gave me a pair of gloves
for 3 florins' worth of engravings. I have once more made
the portrait of Tomasin's brother Vincentius; and I gave
Master Augustus Lombard two of the Imagines. Moreover, I
made a portrait of the crooked-nosed Italian named Opitius.
Also my wife and maid dined one day at Herr Tomasin's; that
makes four meals.
Our Lady's Church at Antwerp is so vast that many masses may
be sung there at one time without interfering one with
another. The altars are richly endowed; the best musicians
that can be had are employed; the Church has many devout
services and much stonework, and in particular a beautiful
tower. I also visited the rich Abbey of St. Michael, where
are the finest galleries of stonework that I have ever seen,
and a rich throne in the choir. But at Antwerp they spare no
cost in such things, for they have plenty of money.
I have made a portrait of Herr Nicolas, an astronomer who
lives with the King of England, and is very helpful and of
great service to me in many matters. He is a German, a
native of Munich. Also I have made the portrait of Tomasin's
daughter, Maid Zutta by name. Hans Pfaffroth gave me a
Philip's florin for taking his portrait in charcoal. I have
dined once more with Tomasin. My host's brother-in-law
entertained me and my wife once. I changed 2 light florins
for 24 stivers for living expenses; and I gave 1 stiver for
a tip to a man who let me see an altar-piece.
The Sunday after the Feast of the Assumption I saw the great
procession of Our Lady's Church at Antwerp, where all the
whole town was gathered together, with all the trades and
professions, and each was dressed in his best according to
his rank; every guild and profession had its sign by which
it might be recognized. Between the companies were carried
great costly gold pole-candlesticks and their long old
Frankish silver trumpets; and there were many pipers and
drummers in the German fashion; all were loudly and noisily
blown and beaten. I saw the procession pass along the
street, spread far apart so that they took up much space
crossways, but close behind one another: goldsmiths,
painters, stonecutters, broiderers, sculptors, joiners,
carpenters, sailors, fishermen, butchers, leather workers,
cloth makers, bakers, tailors, shoemakers, and all kinds of
craftsmen and workmen who work for their livelihood.
There were likewise shopkeepers and merchants with their
assistants of all sorts. After them came the marksmen with
their guns, bows, and cross-bows; then the horsemen and foot
soldiers; then came a large company of the town guard; then
a fine troop of very gallant men, nobly and splendidly
costumed. Before them, however, went all the religious
orders and the members of some foundations, very devoutly,
in their respective groups. There was, too, in this
procession, a great troop of widows, who support themselves
by their own labour and observe special rules, all dressed
from head to foot in white linen robes made expressly for
the occasion, very sorrowful to behold. Among them I saw
some very stately persons, the Canons of Our Lady's Church
with all their clergy, scholars, and treasures. Twenty
persons bore the image of the Virgin Mary and of the Lord
Jesus, adorned in the richest manner, to the honour of the
Lord God. The procession included many delightful things
splendidly got up, for example, many wagons were drawn along
with stagings of ships and other constructions. Then there
came the company of the Prophets in their order, and scenes
from the New Testament, such as the Annunciation, the Three
Magi riding great camels, and other strange beasts, very
skillfully arranged, and also how Our Lady fled into Egypt--
very conducive to devotion--and many other things which for
shortness I must leave out. Last of all came a great dragon,
which St. Margaret and her maidens led by a girdle; she was
extraordinarily beautiful. Behind her followed a St. George
with his squire, a very fine cuirassier. There also rode in
the procession many pretty and richly dressed boys and girls
in the costumes of many lands representing various saints.
This procession from beginning to end, where it passed our
house, lasted more than two hours; there were so many things
there that I could not write them in a book, so I let it
alone.
I visited Fugger's house in Antwerp, which is newly built,
with a wonderful tower, broad and high, and with a beautiful
garden, and I also saw his fine stallions. Tomasin has given
my wife fourteen ells of good thick arras for a mantle and
three and a half ells of half satin to line it. I drew a
design for a lady's forehead band for the goldsmith.
The Portuguese factor has given me a present of wine in the
inn, both Portuguese and French. Signor Rodrigo of Portugal
has given me a small cask full of all sorts of sweetmeats,
amongst them a box of sugar candy, besides two large dishes
of barley sugar, marchpane, many other kinds of sugar-work,
and some sugar-canes just as they grow; I gave his servant
in return 1 florin as a tip. I have again changed for my
expenses a light florin for 12 stivers.
The pillars in the Convent of St. Michael of Antwerp are all
made out of single blocks of a beautiful black touchstone.
Herr Egidius, King Charles's warden, has taken for me from
Antwerp the "St. Jerome in the Cell," the "Melancholy," and
three new "Marys," the "Anthony" and the "Veronica" for the
good sculptor, Master Conrad, whose like I have not seen; he
serves Lady Margaret, the Emperor's daughter. Also I gave
Master Figidius a "Eustace" and a "Nemesis." I owe my host 7
florins, 20 stivers, I thaler--that is, on Sunday before St.
Bartholomew: for sitting room, bedroom, and bedding I am to
pay him 11 florins a month.
I came to a new agreement with my host on the 20th August--
on the Monday before St, Bartholomew's, I am to eat with him
and pay 2 stivers for the meal, and extra for drink, but my
wife and the maid can cook and eat up here.
I gave the Portuguese factor a statuette of a child: besides
that, I gave him an "Adam and Eve," a "Jerome in his Cell,"
a "Hercules," a "Eustace," a "Melancholy," and a "Nemesis;"
then of the half-sheets, three new "Virgins," the
"Veronica," the "Anthony," "The Nativity," and "The
Crucifixion," also the best of the quarter-sheets, eight
pieces, and then the three books of the "Life of the
Virgin," "The Apocalypse," and the "Great Passion," also the
"Little Passion" and the "Passion" on copper, all together,
5 florins' worth. The same quantity I gave to Signor
Rodrigo, the other Portuguese. Rodrigo has given my wife a
small green parrot.