AT NEW ORLEANS.
FRANK NORRIS took his way eastward after leaving Westminster. He slept
at a small hotel in the city, and at daybreak walked on to the docks. He
was careless where he went, so that it was out of England; but he was
determined, if possible, to work his passage, so as to leave the sum of
money in his pocket untouched until he got to his destination. He went
on board a number of ships and asked the captains if they wanted hands,
but on his acknowledgment that he had never been at sea, none of them
would ship him for the outward voyage only. At last he paused before a
fine ship, the _Mississippi_; a printed placard on the wharf beside her
mentioned that the well-known and favourite clipper would sail for New
Orleans on that day. He walked on board and went up to the captain, who
was talking to the first mate, while the latter was superintending the
getting of cargo on board.
"Do you want a hand, sir?"
"Well, that depends," the captain said; "I am still two or three hands
short, but they have promised to send me them this morning. Are you a
sailor?"
"No, sir; but I can row and sail an open boat, and am ready to make
myself useful. I want to work my passage out."
"You look an active young fellow," the captain said, "but I don't care
about taking a landsman only for the voyage out; I should have to ship
another hand in your place at New Orleans, and probably have to pay more
wages there than I could get one for here. Still, likely enough, they
may send me down at the last moment two or three hands who know no more
about it than you do, and may not be half so willing to learn as I
should judge you to be. What do you say, Ephraim; shall we take him?"
"He looks a likely sort," the mate said.
"Very well then, it's agreed; you can take off your coat and fall to
work at once; I will send down word to the office that I have shipped
you." Frank stripped off his coat and waistcoat, and stowed them, with
his portmanteau, out of the way, and then set to work with a will, the
whiteness of his shirt, and his general appearance, exciting some
jeering comments among the other men at work; but the activity and
strength which he showed soon astonished and silenced them.
By one o'clock the last bale of cargo was stowed, and the hatches put
on. The landsmen who had been employed went on shore, and Frank went
forward to the forecastle, with the men, to dinner.
"Not the sort of grub you have been accustomed to, lad," one of the men
said.
"I have eaten worse," Frank said carelessly, "and don't care if I never
eat better. How long do you suppose we shall be before we get to New
Orleans?"
"It all depends upon the wind," the sailor answered, "may be a month,
may be three. Are you going to leave us there?"
"Yes," Frank said, "I am only working my passage out."
"It's a roughish place is New Orleans," the sailor said; "the sort of
place where you want to have a knife or pistol ready at hand. Lor', I
have seen some rum doings there; it's a word and a blow, I can tell ye."
"Ah! well," Frank laughed, "I suppose I shall do as well as the rest."
The voice of the mate was now heard calling to all hands to prepare to
cast off. The men had hurried through their dinner, for they knew that
the time allowed them would be short, and began casting off hawsers,
coiling down ropes, and preparing for a start. The bell was ringing, and
the friends of the passengers were saying good-bye. The capstan was
manned, and the vessel moved slowly away from the quay.
Five minutes later she was at the dock gates; these swung open, and the
vessel slowly made her way through them, and was soon in the river.
As the men ran aloft to loosen the sails, Frank placed himself next to
the sailor who had spoken to him at dinner, and followed him up the
shrouds, and, imitating his actions, he was soon out on the yard hauling
away with the others. When the sails were all set he returned below.
"Wall done, youngster," the mate said; "I reckon you are about as spry
for a green hand as any I have come across; I had my eye on you, and
you'll do. You go on like that, and you will make a first-rate hand
afore long."
There was plenty of work to do as they went down the river. The sails
had to be braced round as the wind took them on different sides in the
winding reaches; the decks were sluiced down, to get rid of the first
coat of dirt which they had acquired in the docks; ropes had to be
coiled and tidied up, and the many articles lying loosely about the deck
to be put in their places and lashed in readiness for sea work. The tide
met them just as it was getting dark, and as the wind dropped, and was
not sufficiently strong to carry the ship against it, the anchor was
dropped a few miles below Gravesend.
The men were divided into two watches, but all were told that, with the
exception of two stationed as an anchor watch, they could turn in till
tide turned. Frank threw himself at once into the bunk which had been
allotted to him. He had not closed an eye the night before, and was worn
out by emotion and fatigue, and scarcely had he lain down than he was
sound asleep. He had been placed in the starboard watch, and slept till
he was roughly shaken at four o'clock in the morning.
"Get up, mate, your watch is called."
Frank leapt out and made his way on deck. The vessel had been now three
hours under weigh. She had passed the Nore, whose light shone brightly
over the stern.
"The wind is freshening a bit," one of the men said, "we shall be out
round the Foreland by dinner-time."
The voyage was an uneventful one; Frank escaped the first fight in which
new-comers generally have to take part before they settle down in their
new sphere. He was thoroughly good-tempered, and fully a match for any
of his messmates in chaff, and he soon became a favourite in the
fo'castle. He was always ready to take his share of the work, and was
soon as much at home on the yards as the rest. The change and the
newness of the life were very good for him; he was never alone, and had
no time to think or brood over his troubles, and he was almost sorry
when the end of the voyage approached.
"Not a lively-looking shore," the mate said to him as he leaned against
the bulwark, looking at the low banks of the river a few miles below New
Orleans. "No, even an American may confess that there ain't much beauty
about this river. It's a great river, and a mighty useful one, but it
ain't beautiful. Now, what are you thinking of doing when you get
ashore?"
"I was thinking to begin by getting employment on board a boat of some
sort. What I shall do afterwards of course I do not know; but if I can
earn my living on the water for a few months, till I have time to look
round and see what is best to be done, I shall be well satisfied. I have
got a few pounds, but I don't want to touch them; they will come in
useful if I want to move, or to buy a horse, or anything of that sort."
"You will do," the mate said. "You have shown yourself a right-down
sharp fellow on board this ship, and I expect you will make your way
whatever you try a hand at. I have taken a fancy to you, and should be
glad to do you a good turn if I can. I have been in and out of this port
for some years, and know Orleans pretty tidy, and I can tell you that
there ain't a port on this side of the water or the other where a fellow
can be put out of the way more promptly than here; there are parts of
New Orleans which, I tell you, are a sort of hell on earth.
"There are places you couldn't go into without some one picking a
quarrel with you afore you have been in there two minutes, and a quarrel
here means knives out afore you have time to think. On the other hand,
Orleans is a place where a steady industrious fellow, with his head
screwed on right, has a good chance of getting on. The trade up the
river is immense, and will be far greater than it is now; and there's
pretty well a continent to the west, with openings of all sorts, land
and cattle, houses and mining, and trade with Mexico. But I don't see as
you can do better than to follow out your own idea.
"I know a score of men here who own boats trading up the river, and the
first time I go ashore I will take you with me and put you in good
hands. The rate of pay ain't high, for it's looked on as easy work;
still, a few months at it will open your eyes and put you into the ways
of the country, and, once at home, I tell you there's money to be made
on the river, heaps of it, and when it's seen that you are steady, and
willing, and 'cute, you will find plenty who will give you a helping
hand. There's no greater place for loafers than New Orleans, and a chap
who will really work will soon make his mark."
Frank warmly thanked the mate for his offer. The moment the ship cast
anchor off the town a crowd of negroes came on board and unloaded her,
and the crew had comparatively little to do; the three or four
passengers who had come out in her went on shore at once, but it was not
until the third afternoon after her arrival that the mate was able to
leave the ship.
"Now, lad," he said to Frank, "jump into the boat along with me, and I
will see if I can't put you into the groove."
Keeping along the wharves for some distance, the mate presently entered
a small wooden office, telling Frank to wait outside.
On entering he accosted the only occupant of the place, a man of some
forty years of age, who was dressed entirely in white, and was sitting
smoking a huge cigar, with his chair tilted back and his feet on the
table.
"How are you, Ephraim?" he said, as the mate entered. "I saw your ship
had arrived. Had a good voyage?"
"First-class," the mate replied; "not very fast, but quiet and
comfortable," and he took a cigar from an open box on the table and
lighted it. "I haven't come round for a talk with you now, I have only
just come ashore for the first time; but I wanted to speak to you about
a young chap as came out with us. He has worked his passage out, and is
about the smartest young fellow I ever shipped, and has the makings of a
first-class seaman in him, but he doesn't care about stopping at sea.
He's of good family in the old country, as one can easily see. I expect
he has got into some scrape, and has had to make a bolt of it; however,
that's no business of mine. He's as strong as a horse, and as active as
a squirrel; he can handle an oar and sail a boat. I didn't like the
thought of his landing here and getting into bad hands, so I thought I
would come straight to you. He said what he wanted to do was to work on
the river, for a few months at any rate, until he got to know the place.
Now I know you have a dozen tugs and a score of barges, and I thought
you might set him on at once. He would make a good second hand on one of
your large boats. If it's but to oblige me, I wish you would put him on
board one with a sober, steady chap of a decent kind; as soon as he gets
to know the work and the river, I will guarantee that he will be fit to
take charge himself."
"That's easy enough done, Ephraim," the trader replied, "all except
finding the sober and steady decent man to put him under. However, I
will do my best. Have you got him here?"
"Yes, he is outside," Ephraim said; and rising, he went to the door and
called Frank in. "This is the hand I was speaking to you about, Mr.
Willcox."
"Well, young man," the trader said, "I hear you want a berth on board a
tug or flat. Which would you rather have?"
"I would prefer to be on a flat,--at any rate for a time, sir," Frank
said; "I am a pretty good hand at sailing or rowing, but I don't know
anything about steamboats."
"There's not much to learn in that," the trader said; "the work is
simply to keep the decks clean, to help to load and unload at each
landing-place, and to pole off in shallows. However, I will put you on
board a flat. The wages to begin with will be twenty dollars a month and
your keep, if that will suit you."
"That will do, sir, very well," Frank said. "When shall I come to work?"
"If you come here this time to-morrow you can go aboard at once. One of
the flats will go up the first thing in the morning."
"Thank you, sir, I will be here. I am greatly obliged to you, Mr.
Alderson, for your kind recommendation of me."
"I am glad to have put you into a berth," the mate said. "Now I should
recommend you to get on board again soon."
Frank strolled about the wharves for an hour or two, and then went on
board. Before going on shore the following day, the captain gave him a
certificate, saying that he had sailed in the _Mississippi_, and was a
good, willing, and reliable hand.
[Illustration: FRANK'S VISIT TO MR. HIRAM LITTLE'S OFFICE.]
"You may not intend to go to sea again, but if you should, this will get
you a better berth than if you had applied as a landsman. I am very
pleased with your conduct on board the ship, and I am only sorry you are
leaving us. I think it's a pity you don't stick to it, for it is clear
that you are well educated, and would be able to pass as a mate as soon
as you had been the requisite time at sea. However, you can fall back on
that if you don't get on as well as you expect on shore."
The mate said good-bye to him warmly.
"Your employer is one of the very best in the place," said he. "You must
not suppose he is in a small way because you see him in that little
office: he is one of the largest tug and flat owners in New Orleans. He
keeps his eye on his men, and will push you forward if he sees you
deserve it. He has the name of having the best of captains on the river,
and of being one of the best and most liberal of employers. But you must
not expect much in flat life, you will find the men rough as well as the
work."
"I shan't mind that," Frank said cheerfully; "our own bargemen on the
Thames are not the most polished of men."
"And, lad," the mate added, "I should advise you to hand over any money
you may have with you to Mr. Willcox; the less money you have in your
pockets the better. You have no occasion for it on the river, and there
are loafers hanging about at every landing who would think nothing of
knocking a man on the head if they thought he had got fifty dollars in
his pocket."
Frank promised to take his advice, and, with a hearty farewell to the
mate, and a cordial one to his late shipmates, he put his portmanteau
in the boat and was rowed ashore.
"Oh, here you are," Mr. Willcox said, as he entered; "just give a call
to that man you see outside."
Before doing so, Frank handed over his twenty sovereigns to the trader,
asking him to keep them for him, and then went to the door. On a log
close by a tall, gaunt man was sitting smoking a short pipe. Frank asked
him to step in.
"Hiram," the trader said, "this is the young Britisher who is going as
your second hand. I have good accounts of him as a sailor, so you won't
have to teach him that part of the business. Of course he is new to the
river and its ways."
"I will put him through," the man said, "and will teach him as much as I
knows myself if he cares to learn."
"There is no one knows the river better, Hiram; and, as you know, I
would have given you the command of a steamer long ago if you would have
taken it."
"No, sir," the man said emphatically, "not for Hiram Little. I have been
on board a flat all my days, and am not going to be hurried along in one
of them puffing things. They have their uses, I am ready enough to
allow, when the current is swift and the wind light; I am glad enough of
a cast now and then, but to be always in a bustle and flurry is more
than I could stand. Come along, youngster, with your sack; the boat is a
quarter of a mile down."
Taking up his portmanteau, Frank followed his conductor, who with long
strides led the way along the wharf. Not a word was spoken till they
reached the side of the boat. This was not a flat such as now are in
general use, but a large boat some forty feet in length by fourteen
wide, almost flat-bottomed, and capable of carrying a cargo of eight or
ten tons of goods. In the stern was a little cabin some eight feet long
for the captain and his mate. In front was a similar structure for the
four negroes who formed the crew.
She carried one mast, with a large lug-sail. She had four sweeps, but
these were seldom used. When the wind was fair she ran before it, when
it was foul the mast was lowered; if it fell calm when they were coming
down the stream they drifted with it, if when going up, they either
anchored or poled her along in the back waters close inshore, or made
their way up the numerous channels where the stream flowed sluggishly,
or tied on behind a tug if one happened to come along.
Their principal work was to carry up supplies to the various plantations
along the banks, to trade with the villages, and to bring down produce
to New Orleans; for the stopping-places of the steamers were at wide
distances apart, and the number of steamers themselves very small in
comparison with those now afloat on the great river. At times they made
longer journeys, going up as far as St. Louis; but in that case they
were generally, as Frank afterwards learned, towed up the whole
distance.
"Hi! Pete, shove that plank ashore," Hiram shouted, and a negro at once
showed his head above a scuttle in the bow of the boat, and then
emerging, pushed a plank across the fifteen feet of water which
intervened between the flat and the wharf.
"That's your first lesson, young man," Hiram said. "Never on no account
lay your craft close alongside; thar's river thieves at these landings
as would empty half the cargo if you left the boat for ten minutes, if
they could step aboard, and these niggers are always asleep the minute
after you take your eyes off them. So, whether you have got anything
aboard or not, stick to the rule and moor her a bit off the wharf. It's
only the trouble of dropping the grapnel over on the outside in addition
to the hawser ashore, and then there's never no trouble when you get
back and have to report as how you have lost some of the bales. It ain't
as how we carry up many things as would pay for taking; soft goods for
the stores up the river mostly goes by steamer, but them as ain't
hurried, and likes to keep their dollars in their pockets, has their
goods up by flats. I have got ten hogsheads of sugar, twenty-four crates
of hardware, some barrels of molasses, and forty casks of spirits on
board, eighty kegs of nails and a ton or two of rice and flour. We
reckon to go up light, and I don't care to have the flat more nor
half-full, for when the river's low and the wind light the less we have
on board the better. Now Pete, let's have tea as soon as may be."
By this time they had entered the cabin at the stern of the boat. It was
only about five feet high, but was large and roomy, and Frank saw with
pleasure that it was neat and clean, and was an abode infinitely
preferable to the forecastle of the _Mississippi_.
"Now, lad, that's your side, and this is mine; that's your bunk. I am
given to tidy ways, having all my life lived in small places, and I hope
as you will fall into my ways; I keeps the cabin tidy myself, and Pete
never comes aft here except to bring the food and take it away again; I
can't a-bear niggers messing about a place. Victuals of all sorts is
provided. You can do as you like about liquor. I keeps a keg of rum on
board, and I likes my glass at night; if you likes to join me at that
you can pay for half the keg, it has not been broached yet. If you want
to drink more nor two glasses a night, ye had best get in yer own stock;
if ye don't want to touch it at all, just leave it."
Frank said he liked a glass of grog at night, and should be glad to join
in the cask, and that he would do his best to keep his side of the cabin
as tidy as the other. In a few minutes the negro brought in the meal,
which consisted of a steak fried with onions, followed by a large bowl
of oatmeal, with a jug of molasses, and the whole was washed down with
tea.
"The stream does not seem to run very rapidly," Frank said, as he and
his companion, having lit their pipes, sat down on the deck above.
"It varies," Hiram replied; "sometimes it's sluggish, as you see it
here, sometimes it runs like a mill-stream. The art of sailing here is
to know the river; for what with its back currents and its eddies, its
channels behind islands and its sandbanks, one who knows it can manage
to make his way up, while one who didn't know would be drifting backward
instead of getting forward. That's what you have got to learn.
Fortunately the wind generally blows up the stream; when it don't it's a
case of down anchor. There are places where one can hardly get along
unless the wind happens to be unusually strong, and there I generally
get a tow. The boss has got about twenty steamers on the river, so we
don't generally have to wait many hours before one comes along. The tugs
is gradually doing away with sailing boats, and in time there won't be
many of our kind of craft left; but they are useful, you see, for small
places where the steamers don't stop, and for the rivers which run into
the Mississippi."
The next morning at daybreak the sail was hoisted, the hawsers thrown
off from the shore, and the flat made her way up the river. Frank was
surprised to see how fast she sailed, although the wind was but light.
The work was easy, for the wind was steady and they seldom sailed at
night, the wind generally dropping at sundown. They touched at numerous
little settlements, and gradually got rid of the cargo with which they
had started.
Sometimes they left the main river and sailed for many miles by narrow
channels, where the current, for the most part, was almost
imperceptible. They were more than a month from the time they started
before they reached the spot at which they were to take in the cargo for
their return voyage. The flat was then loaded up with grain, which was
put in in bulk and covered with tarpaulin; the boat was now laden down
nearly to the water's edge.
The downward voyage differed widely from that up the river; the sail was
now seldom used, and instead of skirting the shores they kept in
mid-channel, from time to time directing the boat's course by the use of
the sweeps. The moon was nearly full when they started, and they
continued their voyage by night as well as day. Hiram and Frank took it
by turns to be on watch; but the former was seldom down below, except on
the rare occasions when the river was free from shoals.
Frank had by this time learned by the ripples on the water to detect the
shallows, and could direct the course without assistance; but as soon as
the splash of oars was heard on the water, Hiram was sure to appear on
deck, however short the time since he had retired to rest.
"You are seeing the river at its best," he was saying one day. "It is
about half-full now; when the water's low, the channel where we can pass
loaded is often only fifty yards wide, with the water running through it
like a sluice. When the water is in flood there is no fear of shoals,
but you have got to look about, for it is full of floating trees and
logs; when these get stuck we call them snags, and if you were to run on
one of them the chances are it would knock a hole as big as a cask in
her bottom, and down you would go in two or three minutes."
[Illustration]