ARUNDEL AND THE ARUN
There is a choice of roads between Worthing and Arundel: that which
keeps to the low lands has been partly traversed in the journey to West
Ferring.
About two miles east of this village, and close to Angmering station,
are the twin villages of East and West Preston; the former has a Norman
and Transitional church with one of the four stone spires in Sussex. At
Rustington, a mile farther, is a more interesting Early English church
with a Transitional tower. Note the ancient sculpture in the north
transept, also the squint and rood-loft steps. This village is but a
short distance from Littlehampton, which may be approached by the shore
road.
The country about here seen from the flats appears to be thickly
wooded, an effect that is produced by the screen of tall trees in every
hedgerow, untouched until time levels them, in return for their
protection of the growing crops from the searching sea winds which
sweep across the level fields to the Downs. Vegetation here has a
different aspect from that on the other side of the wall of hills. In
May and early June one may come from the tender green of the Washington
lanes over the pass through Findon and find the spring livery of the
lowland hedgerows temporarily blackened and withered.
[Illustration: THE VALLEY OF THE ARUN.]
The direct way to Arundel, and also the most interesting and beautiful,
is by Castle Goring, reached by the Broadwater road. A short distance
past the Goring woods a side road on the left leads to Angmering. Here
the rebuilt church retains its old chancel and tower with an inscribed
stone over the doorway. Returning by a shorter lane northwards to the
main road we pass New Place, once a mansion but now converted into a
group of cottages; it is famous as the birthplace of the three sons of
Sir Edward Palmer, who were born on three consecutive Sundays, a
circumstance probably unique in natal annals. All three were afterwards
knighted by Henry VIII.
The foothills of the Downs to the right are hereabouts very beautiful;
one of the spurs is occupied by Angmering Park belonging to the Duke of
Norfolk. At Poling, on a tributary of the Arun southwards, is a decoy
for wild fowl. Here is a Perpendicular church containing a
fourteenth-century brass to a former priest, one Walter Davey. A chapel
belonging to a commandery of the Knights of St. John still stands near
the church; it has been converted into a modern dwelling house.
[Illustration: ARUNDEL FROM THE RIVER.]
The first view of Arundel as it is approached from the Worthing road or
from the railway station is almost unique in England. Bridgnorth, the
northern Richmond, Rye, all cities set on a hill, come to the mind for
comparison, but none have the "foreign" look of Arundel; this is to a
large extent helped by the towering church of St. Philip Neri; the
apsidal end and the great height of the building in proportion to its
length, appear more in keeping with northern France than southern
England. The town, when one comes to close quarters with it, has a
feudal air, and indeed this is as much a matter of fact as of fancy.
Arundel is a survival, and depends for its existence on the magnificent
home of the Howards which dominates domestically and ecclesiastically
the town at its feet. The castle has the same relation to the pass of
the Arun that Bramber and Lewes have to the Adur and Ouse, but the fact
that it is still the ancestral home of an ancient and historic family
gives it a far greater interest than either of the others possesses.
The castle is mentioned in Domesday Book, and prior to this in the will
of Alfred the Great. The earldom was given by the Conqueror to Roger of
Montgomery; in addition to the castle and its immediate neighbourhood
it comprised wide and rich possessions in the surrounding country. By
their treason to the Crown the Montgomerys soon forfeited the estates
and the Earldom passed through the hands of Queen Adeliza, and her son
de Albrin, and then to the Fitz-Alans, who held it for over three
hundred years. The daughter of the last Earl married the fourth Duke of
Norfolk and this family have held it ever since. They have made it
their principal home and have built in recent years the magnificent
temple of the older faith which dwarfs and overshadows the parish
church. This itself has felt the might of the great family who, as we
shall presently see, imposed their will on the representatives of the
Establishment.
[Illustration: ARUNDEL CASTLE.]
"What house has been so connected with our political and religious
annals as that of Howard? The premiers in the roll-call of our nobility
have been also among the most persecuted and ill-fated. Not to dwell on
the high-spirited Isabelle, Countess Dowager of Arundel, and widow of
Hugh, last earl of the Albini family, who upbraided Henry III to his
face with 'vexing the church, oppressing the barons, and denying all
his true born subjects their right'; or Richard, Earl of Arundel, who
was executed for conspiring to seize Richard II--we must think with
indignation of the sufferings inflicted by Elizabeth on Philip, Earl of
Arundel, son of the 'great' Duke of Norfolk, beheaded by Elizabeth in
1572 for his dealings with Mary Queen of Scots. In the biography of
Earl Philip, which, with that of Ann Dacres his wife, has been well
edited by the fourteenth Duke, we find that he was caressed by
Elizabeth in early life, and steeped in the pleasures and vices of her
court by her encouragement, to the neglect of his constant young wife,
whose virtues, as soon as they reclaimed him to his duty to her,
rendered him hated and suspected by the Queen, so that she made him the
subject of vindictive and incessant persecution, till death released
him at the age of thirty-eight. To another Howard, Thomas, son of Earl
Philip, the country is indebted for those treasures of the East, the
Arundel marbles."
(_Quarterly Review_: Hare.)
[Illustration: THE KEEP, ARUNDEL.]
The castle, though not that portion at which we have been looking, has
been besieged on three important occasions; in 1102 by Henry I, to whom
it surrendered. By Stephen, on its giving hospitality to the Empress
Maud; and by Waller, who captured it after seventeen days' siege with a
thousand prisoners. Artillery mounted on the tower of the church played
great havoc with the building and it remained in a ruinous condition
until practically rebuilt by the tenth Duke in the latter part of the
eighteenth century.
We commence the ascent of the keep, which is the only part shown to the
public (usually on Mondays only) by way of the clock tower which once
formed the entrance to the inner courts. We can now see the remnants of
Richard Fitz-Alan's buildings (1290). A flight of steps leads to the
Keep, the older portion of which was built by the same Earl; the walls
are in places ten feet thick. In the centre a well descends to the
storeroom of the garrison, which is cut out of the solid chalk. Over
the entrance note the remains of St. Martin's chapel; from the window
is a magnificent view towards Littlehampton. The openings in the floor
suggest the use of boiling liquid for the heads of besiegers.
The Keep was once famous for its owls, the older members of the colony
being known by appropriate names, such as that recorded in the story of
the Ducal butler who convulsed the guests one evening by announcing,
"Please, your Grace, Lord Thurlow has laid an egg."
[Illustration: ARUNDEL GATEWAY.]
The views in every direction are very fine and the nearer prospect
proves to the observer the unrivalled position which the fortress held
as guardian of one of the most important of the routes between London
and the Continent by way of the Port of Littlehampton. In the distant
view "The Island" is conspicuous on clear days with Chichester
Cathedral spire in the middle distance. Eastwards is Highdown Hill and
the country round Worthing, North the beautiful valley of the Arun and
the lovely tree-clad slopes of the Downs of which the nearer spurs form
Arundel Park.
The "state" and residential portions of the castle are never shown to
the general public. In the fine collection of pictures are a number of
Van Dycks and Holbeins, mostly portraits of the Fitz-Alans and Howards.
The entrance to the chancel of Arundel Church, now the Fitz-Alan
Chapel, is from the castle grounds. Permission to inspect the famous
tombs is rarely given. A lawsuit in the last century attempted the
recovery of the chancel for the parishioners of Arundel, but was
ineffectual owing to the fact that the chapel was originally that of
the college of Holy Trinity, founded in 1380 by Richard Fitz-Alan; this
passed to its present possessors at the Dissolution. The Lady Chapel
retains its old altar stone with consecration crosses, and above is a
window with some fragments of stained glass. In the centre is the tomb
of the sixteenth Earl (1421) and a modern tomb of Lord Henry Howard. A
number of interesting brasses may also be seen. The main portion of the
chapel contains the more famous tombs, the effigies being highly
interesting studies of the state dress of various periods. Earl Thomas
and his Countess, daughter of King John of Portugal, (1415) occupy the
centre; the others are Earl John (1435) under the east arch. William,
nineteenth Earl (1488), in a chantry on the south side. On the north
are Thomas (1524) and William (1544). A tablet over Earl William's
chantry is in memory of the last Fitz-Alan, Earl Henry (1580).
[Illustration: ARUNDEL CHURCH.]
The fine parish church is separated from the chancel by a screen wall.
It dates from 1380 and now consists of nave and transepts, the space
under the tower being used as the choir. An ancient canopied pulpit is
placed against the south-west pier. On the north side are frescoes of
the Seven Deadly Sins and the Seven Works of Mercy. The modern ornate
reredos shows with great effect against the curious arrangement of iron
grill and bare brick which forms the screen wall. The church was once
attached to the Monastery of Seez in Normandy.
The magnificent modern Roman Catholic church of St. Philip Neri is open
to visitors between the services. It is built in the purest style of
Decorated Gothic and has already cost over one hundred thousand pounds.
Notice, before entering, the statues of the Twelve Apostles at the west
end beneath the fine "rose" window. On entering, the imposing effect of
the clustered columns and beautiful apse will be admired. Unlike most
Roman churches there is but little colour displayed, the "Stations of
the Cross" being bas-reliefs in the aisle walls. The subdued yet
glowing tints in the stained glass help the general effect of
restrained dignity.
[Illustration: PLAN OF THE CASTLE & TOWN, ARUNDEL.]
In the lower portion of the town, the scanty remains of Maison Dieu
show the position of that retreat, founded by Earl Richard, who built
the church; the house provided for twenty inmates. The piers of Arun
bridge were built out of the ruins in 1742.
The park will probably prove the most satisfactory of the sights of
Arundel to the ordinary visitor, who is here allowed to wander where he
will. The road passing under the castle to the right should be taken as
far as a small gate on the left, by the mill, entering which we
immediately see the Swanbourne Lake in all its beauty.
"The mill is situated beneath the castle, on the east side, at the head
of the stream by which the ancient Swanbourne Lake discharges itself
into the river, and most probably occupies the site of the original
building mentioned in _Domesday_. Perhaps, of all the beautiful spots
in the neighbourhood of Arundel, none comprises more real beauty than
this. The valley in front, shaded by the willows and the ash which
adorn the little islands of the lake, and winding its way in the
distance among the hills; the castle projecting boldly from the
eminence on the left; the steep acclivities on each hand, clothed to
their summit with luxuriant forest trees ... present a scene in whose
presence the lapse of centuries will be easily forgotten." (Tierney.)
The charm of the spot is not in any way spoilt, obvious care being
taken to keep the surroundings spotless; although picnickers are
allowed where they will, here are no scraps of paper or broken bottles,
the efficient service of "clearing up" is at work in the early hours of
the morning, which is the right time to see the park. The visitor
should continue round the left bank and up the hill to Hiorne's Tower,
from which a magnificent view of the Arun valley and the surrounding
Downs is to be had. Equally beautiful is that from the brow of the hill
overlooking the Arun, from which point the castle makes an effective
picture with the broad sweep of the sea and lowlands behind. The Downs
are here at their best and the glorious woods of beech and oak are
superb in October, and that month, with late May as an alternative, is
the best time to see the western Downs. The Castle Dairy is open to the
public, usually on the same days that the Keep may be seen. The Dairy
dates from 1847 and has the appearance more of a monastic establishment
than of farm buildings.
[Illustration: LYMINSTER.]
The exploration of the valley of the Arun must be commenced by turning
down the stream to see that least interesting section which lies
between Arundel and the sea. At the mouth of the river stands the old
port of Littlehampton, the direct road to which leaves the Arun to the
right and passing Lyminster (Lemster), sometimes spelt Leominster,
which has a restored Transitional church, enters Littlehampton near the
Railway station. The river road goes by way of Ford, where there is a
little church interesting by reason of its many styles. According to
Mr. P.M. Johnson they range from Norman (and perhaps Saxon) right
through to Caroline. Nearly two miles west is another interesting
church at Yapton, which has a black granite font, ornamented with
crosses and probably pre-Norman. The interior of the church shows work
of an archaic character usually described as early Norman. The inn here
has a sign--"The Shoulder of Mutton and Cucumbers"--which must be as
unique as it is mysterious.
[Illustration: CLYMPING.]
Continuing south we reach in another mile the very fine Early English
church at Clymping. The tower is Transitional. The artist has sketched
the beautiful doorway, one of the finest in Sussex. Notice also the old
stone pulpit and ancient chest. The road running directly south leads
to the coast at Atherington, where are the remains of a chapel attached
to the "Bailiff's Court House," a moated mediaeval building with
portions of a cloister. The Bailiff was the local representative of the
Abbey of Seez already referred to. The Littlehampton road turns east
half a mile beyond Clymping and after a dull stretch of over a mile
crosses the Arun by Littlehampton (swing) Bridge.
The ancient seaport, never of more than local importance, has given way
to a watering place almost entirely devoted to children. From the
number of nursemaids seen on the beach on an average summer day and the
scarcity of other adults one is forced to the conclusion that patrons
of this resort use it as a dumping ground for their offspring while
they enjoy themselves elsewhere. The firm clean sands are ideal for
paddling and castle building, and many ephemeral Arundels arise between
tides. The ebb and flow in the Arun interfere with what would otherwise
be an enjoyable trip up stream, but with skill and care there is little
danger. Littlehampton shows few traces of its antiquity, the church was
rebuilt in the last century and is of no interest, but there are many
good walks in the neighbourhood and the immediate country is
beautifully wooded, with the distant Downs as an occasional background.
[Illustration: CHURCH STREET, LITTLEHAMPTON.]
To explore the valley of the Arun to the north a return must be made to
Arundel, and either the path through the park or the road to South
Stoke may be taken. The latter runs between park and river and soon
reaches the two villages of North and South Stoke, both charming little
hamlets without any communication by road, though a footpath unites the
two. The first village, South Stoke, has an Early English church with
sedilia and other details. North Stoke has a fine Norman door worthy of
inspection. Here a British canoe was discovered in the last century; it
may be seen in the Lewes Museum. Across the river, and only to be
approached by a detour past Amberley Station, is Houghton. From the
bridge over the Arun is a very beautiful retrospect of the valley
towards Arundel with the hills falling in graceful curves to the river.
The church is Early English of a severe type; here is a fifteenth
century brass but nothing more of much interest.
A mile from Houghton Bridge will bring us to Amberley. The village is
built on a low hill or cliff immediately above the "wild brooks" or
water meadows of the Arun, and is famous for the picturesque remains of
the palace of the Bishops of Chichester, which still edge the sandy
hill in front of the village. Amberley Castle, as the residence has
always been called, was built in the reign of Richard II, about 1379,
and then consisted of a crenellated building with square corner towers
and two round gate towers; the present house, which stands within the
walls, was erected in the early sixteenth century by Bishop Sherbourne.
This has probably been the site of an episcopal residence since before
the Conquest and is in as beautiful a situation as is to be found in
Sussex, though judging by a local saying quoted by Lower, it would not
appear to be as perfect in the winter. An Amberley man when asked from
where he comes then answers "Amberley, God help us," but in the
summer--"Amberley, where _would_ you live?" "Amerley" is immortalized by
Izaac Walton for its trout, and by Fuller, who speaks of them as "one
of the four good things of Sussex."
[Illustration: LITTLEHAMPTON HARBOUR.]
Amberley Church is a small Norman building with Early English
additions; note the brass to John Wantle (1424) and the beautifully
ornamented door in the south aisle. There is an hour-glass stand in the
pulpit. Notice also the ancient font and the remains of frescoes at the
east end of the nave.
The road now runs eastwards with the fine escarpment of Rackham Hill to
the right and in about two miles reaches Parham Park, the seat of Lord
Zouche. A short distance further east is Storrington, which we have
seen on our way to Worthing. Delightful walks may be taken across the
park, which is freely open to the pedestrian. This stretch of sandy and
picturesque wild land is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful domains
in the south. Its fir-trees are characteristic of the sandstone
formation which here succeeds the chalk. Visitors should make their way
to the lake where the scene, with the Downs as a background, is one of
extreme beauty. The Heronry here is famous; the birds were originally
brought from Wales to Penshurst, from which locality they migrated to
Angmering and then to Parham.
Lady Dorothy Nevill, in her interesting "Leaves," refers to Parham as a
favourite resort of smugglers. A former Lady de la Zouche, while a
little girl, was made to open a gate for the passage of a long
procession of pack-horses laden with kegs.
Parham House is a fine Elizabethan manor, although partly spoilt by
some modern additions; built by Sir Thomas Palmer about 1520 it passed
to the present family in 1597. The house is famous for the magnificent
collection of works of art, early printed books and ancient illuminated
MS.; permission to inspect these may be obtained by written application
when the family are not in residence and for purposes of research this
important collection is always available. Some time since the most
valuable items were removed to the British Museum for safety. The house
contains a priest's hole, the entrance to which is from a window seat
in the long gallery; one of the Babington conspirators--Charles
Paget--was hidden here. South of the house is Parham Church, possessing
one of the three leaden fonts of Sussex.
[Illustration: AMBERLEY CASTLE.]
It is now proposed to visit Pulborough and the valley of the Rother.
Though rather far afield from Seaward Sussex and the chalk lands, this
district comes naturally within the Down country, but must have a
chapter to itself. From Parham we may either go direct to Pulborough by
the highroad or, more profitably, by Greatham to Coldwaltham on the
Roman Stane Street, the great highway from Chichester to London; here
we turn north east and in a mile (just past the railway) note the
scanty ruins of Hardham Priory on the right; another mile and, crossing
the old Arun bridge, we are in Pulborough.
[Illustration: STOPHAM BRIDGE.]