"Windy bellies without hearts in them."
Djemal's coffee shop is run by a Turkish gentleman whose real
name is Yussuf. One name, and the shorter the better, had been
plenty in the days when Djemal Pasha ran Jerusalem with iron
ruthlessness, and consequent success of a certain sort. When
Djemal was the Turkish Governor, every proprietor of every kind
of shop had to stand in the doorway at attention whenever Djemal
passed, and woe betide the laggard!
It would not have paid any one, in those days, to name any sort
of shop after Djemal Pasha. Even the provider of the rope that
throttled the offender would have made no profit, because the
rope would simply have been looted from the nearest store.
The hangman would have been the nearest soldier, whose pay
was already two years in arrears. So Yussuf's own name done
in Turkish characters used to stand over the door before the
British came.
It was Djemal Pasha's considered judgment that Yussuf cooked the
best coffee in Jerusalem. So whenever the despot was in the city
he conferred on Yussuf the inestimable privilege of supplying him
with coffee at odd moments, under threat of the bastinado if the
stuff were not suitably sweet and hot. The only money that ever
changed hands in that connection was when the tax-gatherer came
down on Yussuf for an extra levy, because of the added trade that
conceivably might be expected to accrue through the advertisement
obtained by serving such an exalted customer. The tax-gatherer
also threatened the bastinado; and as the man who likes that
punishment, or who could soften the heart of a Turkish tax
assessor, has yet to be discovered, Yussuf invariably paid.
But when Allenby conquered Palestine between bouts of trying to
tame his Australians, and Djemal Pasha scooted hot-foot into
exile with a two-hundred-woman harem packed in lorries at his
rear, Yussuf remembered that old adage about better late than
never. He put Djemal's name on the stone arch of the narrow door
near the foot of David Street. He did it partly out of the
disrespect that a small dog feels for a big one that is now on
chain; but he was not overlooking the business value of it.
The first result was that he did quite a lot of trade with
British officers, who came primarily because they were sick of
eating sand and bully-beef, and drinking sand and tepid water in
the desert. Later they flocked there by way of paying indirect
homage to a governor who, whatever his obvious demerits, had at
any rate never been answered back or thwarted with impunity.
(There was a time, after the capture of Jerusalem, when if the
British army could have voted on it, Djemal Pasha would have been
brought back and given a free hand.)
But the officers began to discover that Yussuf was charging them
four or five times the proper price. The seniors objected
promptly, and deserted, to the inexpressible delight of the
subalterns; but even the under-paid extravagant youths grew
tired of extortion after a month or two, and Yussuf had to look
elsewhere for customers.
Yussuf did some thinking behind that genial Turkish mask of his.
Competition was keen. There are more coffee shops in Jerusalem
than hairs on a hog's back, and the situation, down near the
bottom of that narrow thoroughfare in the shadow of an ancient
arch, did not lend itself to drawing crowds.
But there were others in Jerusalem besides the British officers
who yearned for Djemal's rule again; and, unlike the irreverent
men in khaki, they did not dare to voice their feelings in
public. All the old political grafters, and all the would-be new
ones savagely resented a regime under which bribery was not
permitted; and, as always happens sooner or later, they began to
show a tendency to meet in certain places, where they might talk
violence without risk of incurring it.
So Yussuf permitted a rumour to gain ground that he, too, was a
malcontent and that the British had deserted his coffee shop for
that reason. He gave out that Djemal Pasha's name over the door
stood for reaction and political intrigue. So his place began to
be frequented by effendis in tarboosh and semi-European clothes,
who could chew the cud of bitterness aloud between walls that the
crusaders had built four feet thick. The only entrance was
through the narrow front door, where Yussuf inspected every
visitor before admitting him.
So Yussuf's "Cafe Djemal Pasha" was the place to go to for
politics, of the red-hot, death-and-dynamite order that would
make Lenin and Trotsky sound like small-town sports. But first
you had to get by Yussuf at the door.
Suliman led me by the hand down David Street, through the smelly-
yelly moil of flies and barter, past the meat and vegetable
stalls, beneath the crusader arches from which Jewish women
peered through trellised windows, across three transversing lanes
of the ancient suku,* and halted at Yussuf's door. [*Bazaar]
He rapped on it three times. When Yussuf's wrinkled face
appeared at last Suliman demanded to see Staff-Captain Ali Mirza.
Yussuf's blood-shot eyes peered at me for a long time before he
asked a question.
"Atrash!--akras!--majnoon!!" [Deaf!--Dumb!--Mad!!] said Suliman.
Describing me as mad seemed to give him particular delight. He never
overlooked a chance of doing it.
"Staff-Captain Ali Mirza is not here. What should a Madman want
with him?"
"He is not very mad--only stupid. He carries a message for
the captain."
"But the captain is not here. He has not been here."
"He will come."
"How should a deaf-and-dumb man deliver a message?"
"It is in writing."
"Very well. He may leave the writing with me. If the captain
comes I will deliver it."
"No. The message is from Esh-Sham (Damascus). He will give it
only into the captain's own hand."
"What is your name?"
"Suliman."
"What is his?"
"God knows! He came with another man by train; and the other
man, who is much more mad than this one, gave me five piastres to
bring this one to your kahwi!" [Coffe-pot]
Yussuf shut the door, and discussed the proposition with his
customers. At the end of two or three minutes his head
appeared again.
"You say Staff-Captain Ali Mirza is expected here?"
"So said the man at the station."
"What do you know of Staff-Captain Ali Mirza?"
"Nothing."
Once more the door closed and I could hear the murmur of
voices inside--but only a confused murmur, for the door was
thick. When it opened again two other heads were peering
from behind Yussuf's.
"Has he money?" he asked.
"Kif? Ma indi khabar!" [How should I know?]
Yussuf opened the door wide and made a sign for me to enter. He
seemed in two minds whether to let Suliman come in with me or
not, but finally admitted him with a gruff admonition to keep
still in one place and not talk.
The place was fairly full. It was a square room, with one window
high in the wall on David Street. Around three sides, including
that on which was the front door, ran a wooden seat furnished
with thin cushions. Facing the front door was another one
leading to a dark hole in the rear, where pots were washed and
rice was boiled; beside that door, occupying most of the length
of the fourth wall, was a thing like an altar of dressed stone,
on which the coffee was prepared in dozens of little copper pots.
The benches being pretty well occupied, I was about to squat down
on the floor, but they made room for me close to the front door,
so I squatted on the corner of the bench and tucked my legs under
me. Suliman dropped down on the floor in front of me with his
head about level with my knees.
The other occupants of the room were all Syrian Arabs--not a
Bedouin among them. All of them wore more or less European
clothing, with the inevitable tarboosh, each set at a different
angle. You can guess the mentality of the Syrian by the angle of
that red Islamic symbol he wears on his head. The black tassel
normally hangs behind, and the steady-going conservatives and all
who take their religion seriously, wear the inverted flower-pot-
shaped affair as nearly straight up as the cranium permits.
But once let a Syrian take up new politics, join the Young Turk
Party, forswear religion, or grow cynical about accepted
doctrine, and the angle of his tarboosh shows it, just as surely
as the angle of the London Cockney's "bowler" betrays irreverence
and the New York gangster's "lid" expresses self-contempt
disguised as self-esteem.
The head-gears were set at every possible angle in that coffee-
shop of Yussuf's, from the backward tilt of the breezy optimist
to the far-forward thrust down over the eye of malignant
cynicism, which usually went with folded arms, legs thrust out
straight, and heels together on the floor.
Yussuf brought me coffee without waiting to be asked. I paid him
a half-piastre for it, which is half the proper price, and
utterly ignored his expostulation. He touched me on the
shoulder, displayed the coin in the palm of his hand and went
through a prodigious pantomime. I did not even try to appear
interested. He ordered Suliman to explain to me.
"Mafish mukhkh!" said the boy, touching his own forehead.
My real motive was to act as differently as possible from the
white man, who always pays twice what he should. By establishing
the suggestion of accustomed meanness, I hoped to offset any
breaks I might make presently. Spies, and people of that kind,
usually have plenty of money for their needs, so that by acting
the part of a man unused to spending except in minute driblets I
stood a better chance of not being detected.
But I was in luck. I have often noticed, so that it has become
almost an article of creed with me, that luck invariably breaks
that way. It almost never turns up blind. You sit down and wait
for luck, and it all goes to the other fellow. But start to use
your wits, even clumsily, and the luck comes along and squanders
itself on you.
"He is certainly from Damascus," laughed one of the customers.
"The price is a half-piastre in Damascus at the meaner shops."
I did not know anything about Damascus then--had never been
there; but from that minute it never entered the mind of one of
those men to doubt that Damascus was my home-city, so easily
satisfied by trifling suggestions is the unscientific human.
Yussuf went back to his charcoal stove grumbling to himself
in Turkish.
But there was still one question in doubt. They seemed satisfied
that I was really deaf and dumb, but in that land of countless
mission schools and alien speech there is always a chance that
even children know a word or two of French. They tested Suliman
with simple questions, such as who was his mother and where was
he born; but he did not need to act that part, he was utterly
ignorant of French.
So they proceeded to ignore the two of us and turn their
political acrimony loose in French, discussing the maddest, most
unmoral schemes with the gusto of small boys playing pirates.
There seemed to be almost as many rival political parties as men
in the room. The only approach to unity was when they agreed to
accuse and destroy. As for constructive agreement, they had
none, and every one's suggestion for improvement was sneered at
by all the rest. They were not even agreed about the Zionists,
except hating them; they quarreled about what would be the
best way to take advantage of them before wiping them out
of existence.
But they all saw exquisite humour in the item of news that
Eisernstein had taken so to heart.
"That was Noureddin Ali's idea! He is a genius! To accuse the
Zionists of offering two million pounds for the Dome of the
Rock--ah! who else could have thought of it! The story has spread
all through Jerusalem, and is on its way to the villages. In two
days it will be common gossip from Damascus to Beersheba. In a
week it will be known from end to end of Egypt; then Arabia;
then India! Ho! When the Indian Moslems get the news--the
Indian troops in Palestine will send it by mail--then what a
furor! Then what anger! That was finesse! That was true
statesmanship! Never was a shrewder genius than Noureddin Ali!"
"Don't shout his name too loud," said somebody. "The
Administration suspects him already."
"Bah! Who in this room is a friend of the Administration? The
Administrator is a broken shard; the British will summon him
home for inefficiency. Besides, there is only one man in
Jerusalem of whom Noureddin is in the least afraid--that Major
Grim, the American. And whoever would give the price of a cup of
coffee for a lease of the life of Major Grim in the circumstances
would do better to toss the money to the first beggar he meets!"
"Hssh!"
"Hah! All the same, I would not choose to be Noureddin's enemy."
"There is another one who will share that opinion--or so I have
heard. I was told that Bedreddin Shah, a recent recruit in the
police, stumbled by accident on certain evidence and demanded a
huge sum for silence. Hee-hee! How much will anybody give
Bedreddin Shah for his prospect?"
"Hssh!"
"What did Bedreddin Shah discover?"
"Nobody knows."
"You mean nobody will tell."
"The same thing."
"How long could a secret be kept in Jerusalem, if you people were
informed of what is going on? You are good for propaganda, that
is all! You can talk--Allah! how you all talk! But as for doing
anything, or keeping a secret until a thing is done, you are no
better than magpies."
The last speaker was a rather fat man, over in the corner by the
scullery door. He had a nose like Sultan Abdul Hamid's and
large, elongated eyes that looked capable of seeing things on
either side of him while he stared straight forward. Even in
that dark corner you could see they had the alligator-hue that
one associates with cruelty. He had the massive shoulders and
forward-stooping position as he sat cross-legged on the seat that
suggest deliberate purpose devoid of hurry.
They all resented what he said, but none seemed disposed to
quarrel with him. One or two remonstrated mildly, but he ignored
their remarks, busying himself with digging out a cigarette from
a gold case set with jewels; after he had lighted it very
thoughtfully and examined the end once or twice to make sure that
it burned just right, he let it hang between his lips in a way
that accentuated the angle of his bulbous nose. You wondered
whether he owned a harem, and what the ladies thought of him.
"Will you sit and brag in here all day?" he asked after a few
minutes. "Yussuf must be getting rich, you sip so much coffee.
It is not particularly good for Yussuf to get rich; it will make
him lazy, as most of you are."
The chattering had ceased, although there were several attempts
to break that uncomfortable silence with inane remarks. His
ravenish, unpleasant voice seemed to act on the company like a
chill wind, depriving treason of its warm sociableness but
leaving in the sting.
"I said you are good for propaganda," he resumed, tossing away
ash with a reflective air. "But even that has no value within
four walls. If Noureddin Ali should come and learn from me how
much talking has been done in here, and how little done outside,
I can imagine he will not be pleased. Are there no other
kahawi?* Why is that story about the Zionists and their offer to
buy the Dome of Rock not being spread diligently? You like the
safety of this place with its four thick walls. But I tell you
the jackal has to leave his hole to hunt." [*Coffee-shops]
They did not like taking orders, even when they were expressed
more or less indirectly; no follower of the new political
freedom does like it, for it rather upsets the new conceit. But
he evidently knew his politicians, and they him. They got up one
by one and made for the door, each offering a different excuse
designed to cover up obedience under a cloak of snappy independence.
Not one of them drew a retort from him, or as much as a farewell nod.
When the last one was gone, and the process took up all of half-
an-hour, he sat and looked down his nose at me for several
minutes without speaking. You could have guessed just as easily
what an alligator was thinking about, and I tried to emulate him,
pretending to go off into the brown study that the Turks call
kaif, out of which it is considered bad manners to disturb your
best friend, let alone a stranger. But manners proved to be no
barrier in his case.
He began talking to me in Arabic--directly at me, slowly and
deliberately, but I did not understand very much of it and it was
not difficult to pretend I did not hear. However, Suliman was in
different case; the boy began to get very restless under the
monolog, and I tugged at his back hair more than once to remind
him of the part he had to play.
Discovering that the Arabic took no effect on me, the alligator
person changed to French.
"They speak French in Damascus. I know you are not deaf. You
are a spy. I know your name. I know what your business was
before you came here. I know why you want to see the staff-
captain. You have a letter for him; I know what is in it. No
use trying to deceive me; I have ways of my own of discovering
things. Do you know what happens to spies who refuse to answer
my questions? They are attended to. Quite simple. They receive
attention. Nobody hears of them again.
"There are drains in Jerusalem--big, dark, smelly, ancient, full
of rats--very useful drains. You think the Staff-Captain Ali
Mirza will protect you. At a word from me he will make the
request that you receive immediate attention. You will disappear
down a drain, where even Allah will forget that you ever existed.
Staff-Captain Ali Mirza is my old friend. Better let me see
that letter."
I felt like laughing at the drain threats although Suliman was
still shivering from the effect of the earlier Arabic version.
But the statement that he knew the real Ali Mirza might be true,
in which case Grim's disguise was not going to last long.
However, the fact that he had not yet seen through my disguise
was some comfort. The wish being father of the thought, I
decided he was bluffing first and last. But he had not finished
yet. He tried me in English.
"The captain will give that letter to me in any case. It is
intended for me. I have other business now, and wish to save
time, so give it to me at once. Here, I will give you ten
piastres for it."
He pulled out a purse and unfolded a ten-piastre note. I took no
notice. He shook it for me to see, and I awoke like a pelican at
the sight of fish.
"Yours for that letter," he said, shaking it again.
I nudged Suliman and nodded to him. He crossed the room, seized
the ten-piastre note, and brought it back to me. I stowed it
away under my shirt.
"Come, now give me the letter."
I took utterly no notice, so he turned his attention to Suliman
again, and resumed in Arabic.
"Feel in his pocket and find the letter."
"I'm afraid," the boy answered.
"Of what? Of him? I will protect you. Take the letter from
him."
Suliman chose to play the small boy, as he could very well indeed
when nothing could be gained by being devilish and ultra-grown-
up. He shook his head and grinned sheepishly.
"Has he any weapons?" was the next question.
"Ma indi khabar." [I don't know.]
Evidently assault and battery was to be the next item on the
program. He had not the eyes or the general air of a man who
will part with ten piastres for nothing. He called to Yussuf,
who came hurrying out of the scullery place. They held a
whispered conference, and Yussuf nodded; then he came over to
the front door and locked it, removing the key.
"Tell him to hand over that letter!" he ordered Suliman.
"Mafish mukhkh!" said the boy, tapping his forehead once more.
Suliman's notion was the right one after all--at any rate the
only one available. Old alligator rolled off his perch and
started for me. Yussuf timed his own assault to correspond.
They would have landed on me simultaneously, if Suliman had not
reminded me that madness is a safe passport nearly anywhere in
the East.
So I went stark, raving mad that minute. I once spent a night in
the room of an epileptic who had delirium tremens, and learned a
lot from him; some of it came to mind just when I needed it. If
ever a man got ten piastres' worth of unexpected side-show it was
that old Syrian with the alligator eyes. By the time I was quite
out of breath there wasn't a cushion or a coffee-pot fit for
business. Suliman was standing out of reach on the bench in a
corner yelling with laughter, while the two men struggled to get
through the scullery door, which was too narrow to admit them
both at once. I earned that ten piastres. By the same token
I did not let the kaffiyi fall off my head and betray my
western origin.
Unable to think up any more original motions, and having breath
for none, I sat on the floor and spat repeatedly, having seen a
madman do that on the Hebron Road and get feared, if not
respected for it. There seems to be a theory prevalent in that
part of the world that the sputum of a madman is contagious.
But I overdid it. Most amateurs do overdo things.
They got so afraid that they decided to put me out into the
street at all costs, where those enemies of society, the police,
might demonstrate their ingenuity. Yussuf made a dash for the
front door, and I suppose he would have called in help and ended
my share in the adventure, if something had not happened.
The "something" was Noureddin Ali very much something in his
own opinion.
"Why didn't you open the door sooner?" he demanded. "I have been
knocking for two minutes."
He watched Yussuf lock the door again behind him, and then eyed
the disheveled room with amused curiosity. He was a rat-faced
little man dressed in a black silk jacket, worsted pants and
brown boots, with the inevitable tarboosh set at an angle of
sheer impudence--a man at least fifty years old by the look of
him, but full of that peppery vigor that so often clings to
little men in middle life. On the whole he looked more like a
school-teacher, or a lawyer then a conspirator; but Yussuf
addressed him with great deference as "Noureddin Ali Bey," and
even old alligator-eyes became obsequious.
Both Yussuf and the other man began explaining the situation to
him in rapid-fire Arabic. I, meanwhile, recovering from the fit
as fast as I dared and trying to remember how to do it.
Noureddin Ali was plainly for having me thrown out, until they
mentioned the name of Staff-Captain Ali Mirza; at that he tried
to cross-examine Suliman at great length, but could get nothing
out of him. Suliman had evidently overheard Grim talking about
Noureddin Ali, and was very much afraid of him.
"All right," Noureddin Ali said at last. "No more business
today, Yussuf. Keep the door locked, but admit the captain. We
must find out what this message is about."
Yussuf went to tidying up the place, while Noureddin Ali and the
alligator person talked excitedly in low tones in the corner near
the scullery door. I lay on the floor with one eye open,
expecting Grim every minute; but it must have been four in the
afternoon before he came, and all that while, with only short
intervals for food and coffee, Noureddin Ali and the other man
talked steadily, discussing over and over again the details of
some plan.
Shortly after midday Suliman began to whimper for food. Yussuf
produced a mess of rice and mutton, of which the two Syrians ate
enormously before giving any to the boy; then they put what was
left in the dish on the floor in front of me, pretty much in the
way you feed a dog, and I hate to remember what I did to it.
It is enough that I did not overlook Grim's advice to eat
like a lunatic, and however suspicious of me Noureddin Ali
might otherwise have been he was satisfied at the end of
that performance.
Several people tried the door, and some of them made signals on
it but Yussuf had a peep-hole where one of the heavy iron nails
had been removed, and after a cautious squint through it at each
arrival he proceeded to ignore them. One man thundered on the
door for several minutes, but was allowed to go away without as
much as a word of explanation.
That was the first incident that made me feel quite sure
Nourreddin Ali was in fear of the police. All the time the
thundering was going on he glanced furtively about him like a rat
in a trap. I saw him feel for a weapon under his arm-pit. When
the noise ceased and the impatient visitor went away he sighed
with relief. The place was certainly a trap; there was no back
way out of it.
When Grim came at last he knocked quietly, and waited in silence
while Yussuf applied his eye to the nail-hole. When he entered,
the only surprising thing about him seemed to me the thinness of
his disguise. In the morning, when I had seen him change in ten
minutes from West to East, it had seemed perfect; but, having
looked for him so long with the Syrian disguise in mind, it
seemed impossible now that any one could be deceived by it. He
was at no pains to keep the kaffiyi thing close to his face,
and I held my breath, expecting to see Noureddin Ali denounce
him instantly.
But nothing of that sort happened. Grim sat down, thrust his
legs out in front of him, leaned back and called for coffee. It
was obvious at once that the alligator person had been lying when
he boasted of knowing Staff-Captain Ali Mirza, for he made no
effort to claim acquaintance or to denounce him as an impostor.
But he nodded to Suliman, and Suliman came over and nudged me.
I let the boy go through a lot of pantomimic argument before
admitting that I understood, but finally I crossed the room to
Grim and offered him the envelope. He looked surprised, examined
the outside curiously, spoke to me, shrugged his shoulders when I
did not answer, tossed a question or two to Suliman, shrugged
again and tore the letter open. Then his face changed, and he
glanced to right and left of him as if afraid of being seen. He
stuffed the letter into his tunic pocket and I went back to the
corner by the front door.
Yussuf was pottering about, still rearranging all the pots and
furniture that I had scattered, but his big ears projected
sidewise and suggested that he might have another motive.
However, it was a simple matter to evade his curiosity by talking
French, and Noureddin All could contain himself no longer.
"Pardon me, sir? Staff-Captain Ali Mirza?"
Grim nodded suspiciously.
"I have heard of you. We have all heard of you. We are proud to
see you in Jerusalem. We wish all success to your efforts on
behalf of Mustapha Kemal, the great Turkish Nationalist leader.
Our prayer is that he may light such a fire in Anatolia as shall
spread in one vast conflagration throughout the East!"
"Who are you?" asked Grim suspiciously. (Evidently the real Ali
Mirza had a reputation for gruff manners.)
"Noureddin Ali Bey. It may be you have heard of me. I am not
without friends in Damascus."
"Oh, are you Noureddin Ali?" Grim's attitude thawed appreciably.
"We have been looking for more action and less talk from you. I
made an excuse to visit Jerusalem and discover how much fire
there is under this smoke of boasting."
"Fire! Ha-ha! That is the right word! There is a camouflage of
talk, but under it--Aha! You shall see!"
"Or is that more talk?"
"We are not all talkers. Wait and see!"
"Oh, more waiting? Has Mustapha Kemal Pasha waited in Anatolia?
Has he not set you all an example of deeds without words? Am I
to wait here indefinitely in Jerusalem to take him news of deeds
that will never happen?"
"Not indefinitely, my dear captain! And this time there will
really be a deed that will please even such a rigorous lover of
action as Mustapha Kemal!"
Grim shrugged his shoulders again.
"I leave for Damascus at dawn," he said cynically. "I don't care
to be mocked there for bringing news of promises. We have had
too many of those barren mares. I shall say that I have found
everything here is sterile--the talk abortive--the men mere windy
bellies without hearts in them!"