CHAPTER VII.

A RAID ON THE STALE-BEER DIVES.

Midnight roll-call was over in the Elizabeth Street police-station,

but the reserves were held under orders. A raid was on foot, but

whether on the Chinese fan-tan games, on the opium joints of Mott and

Pell Streets, or on dens of even worse character, was a matter of

guess-work in the men's room. When the last patrolman had come in from

his beat, all doubt was dispelled by the brief order "To the Bend!" The

stale-beer dives were the object of the raid. The policemen buckled

their belts tighter, and with expressive grunts of disgust took up

their march toward Mulberry Street. Past the heathen temples of Mott

Street--there was some fun to be gotten out of a raid _there_--they

trooped, into "the Bend," sending here and there a belated tramp

scurrying in fright toward healthier quarters, and halted at the

mouth of one of the hidden alleys. Squads were told off and sent

to make a simultaneous descent on all the known tramps' burrows in

the block. Led by the sergeant, ours--I went along as a kind of war

correspondent--groped its way in single file through the narrow rift

between slimy walls to the tenements in the rear. Twice during our trip

we stumbled over tramps, both women, asleep in the passage. They were

quietly passed to the rear, receiving sundry prods and punches on the

trip, and headed for the station in the grip of a policeman as a sort

of advance guard of the coming army. After what seemed half a mile of

groping in the dark we emerged finally into the alley proper, where

light escaping through the cracks of closed shutters on both sides

enabled us to make out the contour of three rickety frame tenements.

Snatches of ribald songs and peals of coarse laughter reached us from

now this, now that of the unseen burrows.

"School is in," said the Sergeant drily as we stumbled down the worn

steps of the next cellar-way. A kick of his boot-heel sent the door

flying into the room.

A room perhaps a dozen feet square, with walls and ceiling that might

once have been clean--assuredly the floor had not in the memory of

man, if indeed there was other floor than hard-trodden mud--but were

now covered with a brown crust that, touched with the end of a club,

came off in shuddering showers of crawling bugs, revealing the blacker

filth beneath. Grouped about a beer-keg that was propped on the wreck

of a broken chair, a foul and ragged host of men and women, on boxes,

benches, and stools. Tomato-cans filled at the keg were passed from

hand to hand. In the centre of the group a sallow, wrinkled hag,

evidently the ruler of the feast, dealt out the hideous stuff. A pile

of copper coins rattled in her apron, the very pennies received with

such showers of blessings upon the giver that afternoon; the faces of

some of the women were familiar enough from the streets as those of

beggars forever whining for a penny, "to keep a family from starving."

Their whine and boisterous hilarity were alike hushed now. In sullen,

cowed submission they sat, evidently knowing what to expect. At the

first glimpse of the uniform in the open door some in the group,

customers with a record probably, had turned their heads away to avoid

the searching glance of the officer; while a few, less used to such

scenes, stared defiantly.

A single stride took the sergeant into the middle of the room, and

with a swinging blow of his club he knocked the faucet out of the keg

and the half-filled can from the boss hag's hand. As the contents of

both splashed upon the floor, half a dozen of the group made a sudden

dash, and with shoulders humped above their heads to shield their

skulls against the dreaded locust broke for the door. They had not

counted upon the policemen outside. There was a brief struggle, two or

three heavy thumps, and the runaways were brought back to where their

comrades crouched in dogged silence.

"Thirteen!" called the sergeant, completing his survey. "Take them out.

'Revolvers' all but one. Good for six months on the island, the whole

lot." The exception was a young man not much if any over twenty, with a

hard look of dissipation on his face. He seemed less unconcerned than

the rest, but tried hard to make up for it by putting on the boldest

air he could. "Come down early," commented the officer, shoving him

along with his stick. "There is need of it. They don't last long at

this. That stuff is brewed to kill at long range."

At the head of the cellar-steps we encountered a similar procession

from farther back in the alley, where still another was forming to take

up its march to the station. Out in the street was heard the tramp of

the hosts already pursuing that well-trodden path, as with a fresh

complement of men we entered the next stale-beer alley. There were

four dives in one cellar here. The filth and the stench were utterly

unbearable; even the sergeant turned his back and fled after scattering

the crowd with his club and starting them toward the door. The very

dog in the alley preferred the cold flags for a berth to the stifling

cellar. We found it lying outside. Seventy-five tramps, male and

female, were arrested in the four small rooms. In one of them, where

the air seemed thick enough to cut with a knife, we found a woman, a

mother with a new-born babe on a heap of dirty straw. She was asleep

and was left until an ambulance could be called to take her to the

hospital.

Returning to the station with this batch, we found every window in the

building thrown open to the cold October wind, and the men from the

sergeant down smoking the strongest cigars that could be obtained by

way of disenfecting the place. Two hundred and seventy-five tramps had

been jammed into the cells to be arraigned next morning in the police

court on the charge of vagrancy, with the certain prospect of six

months "on the Island." Of the sentence at least they were sure. As to

the length of the men's stay the experienced official at the desk was

sceptical, it being then within a month of an important election. If

tramps have nothing else to call their own they have votes, and votes

that are for sale cheap for cash. About election time this gives them

a "pull," at least by proxy. The sergeant observed, as if it were the

most natural thing in the world, that he had more than once seen the

same tramp sent to Blackwell's Island twice in twenty-four hours for

six months at a time.

[Illustration: AN ALL-NIGHT TWO-CENT RESTAURANT, IN "THE BEND."]

As a thief never owns to his calling, however devoid of moral scruples,

preferring to style himself a speculator, so this real home-product

of the slums, the stale-beer dive, is known about "the Bend" by the

more dignified name of the two-cent restaurant. Usually, as in this

instance, it is in some cellar giving on a back alley. Doctored,

unlicensed beer is its chief ware. Sometimes a cup of "coffee"

and a stale roll may be had for two cents. The men pay the score.

To the women--unutterable horror of the suggestion--the place is

free. The beer is collected from the kegs put on the sidewalk by the

saloon-keeper to await the brewer's cart, and is touched up with drugs

to put a froth on it. The privilege to sit all night on a chair, or

sleep on a table, or in a barrel, goes with each round of drinks.

Generally an Italian, sometimes a negro, occasionally a woman, "runs"

the dive. Their customers, alike homeless and hopeless in their utter

wretchedness, are the professional tramps, and these only. The meanest

thief is infinitely above the stale-beer level. Once upon that plane

there is no escape. To sink below it is impossible; no one ever rose

from it. One night spent in a stale-beer dive is like the traditional

putting on of the uniform of the caste, the discarded rags of an old

tramp. That stile once crossed, the lane has no longer a turn; and

contrary to the proverb, it is usually not long either.

With the gravitation of the Italian tramp landlord toward the old

stronghold of the African on the West Side, a share of the stale-beer

traffic has left "the Bend;" but its headquarters will always remain

there, the real home of trampdom, just as Fourteenth Street is its

limit. No real tramp crosses that frontier after nightfall and in the

daytime only to beg. Repulsive as the business is, its profits to the

Italian dive-keeper are considerable; in fact, barring a slight outlay

in the ingredients that serve to give "life" to the beer-dregs, it

is all profit. The "banker" who curses the Italian colony does not

despise taking a hand in it, and such a thing as a stale-beer trust

on a Mulberry Street scale may yet be among the possibilities. One of

these bankers, who was once known to the police as the keeper of one

notorious stale-beer dive and the active backer of others, is to-day an

extensive manufacturer of macaroni, the owner of several big tenements

and other real estate; and the capital, it is said, has all come out of

his old business. Very likely it is true.

On hot summer nights it is no rare experience when exploring the worst

of the tenements in "the Bend" to find the hallways occupied by rows of

"sitters," tramps whom laziness or hard luck has prevented from earning

enough by their day's "labor" to pay the admission fee to a stale-beer

dive, and who have their reasons for declining the hospitality of the

police station lodging-rooms. Huddled together in loathsome files,

they squat there over night, or until an inquisitive policeman breaks

up the congregation with his club, which in Mulberry Street has always

free swing. At that season the woman tramp predominates. The men, some

of them at least, take to the railroad track and to camping out when

the nights grow warm, returning in the fall to prey on the city and to

recruit their ranks from the lazy, the shiftless, and the unfortunate.

Like a foul loadstone, "the Bend" attracts and brings them back, no

matter how far they have wandered. For next to idleness the tramp loves

rum; next to rum stale beer, its equivalent of the gutter. And the

first and last go best together.

As "sitters" they occasionally find a job in the saloons about Chatham

and Pearl Streets on cold winter nights, when the hallway is not

practicable, that enables them to pick up a charity drink now and then

and a bite of an infrequent sandwich. The barkeeper permits them to

sit about the stove and by shivering invite the sympathy of transient

customers. The dodge works well, especially about Christmas and

election time, and the sitters are able to keep comfortably filled

up to the advantage of their host. But to look thoroughly miserable

they must keep awake. A tramp placidly dozing at the fire would not be

an object of sympathy. To make sure that they do keep awake, the wily

bartender makes them sit constantly swinging one foot like the pendulum

of a clock. When it stops the slothful "sitter" is roused with a kick

and "fired out." It is said by those who profess to know that habit has

come to the rescue of oversleepy tramps and that the old rounders can

swing hand or foot in their sleep without betraying themselves. In some

saloons "sitters" are let in at these seasons in fresh batches every

hour.

On one of my visits to "the Bend" I came across a particularly ragged

and disreputable tramp, who sat smoking his pipe on the rung of a

ladder with such evident philosophic contentment in the busy labor of a

score of rag-pickers all about him, that I bade him sit for a picture,

offering him ten cents for the job. He accepted the offer with hardly a

nod, and sat patiently watching me from his perch until I got ready for

work. Then he took the pipe out of his mouth and put it in his pocket,

calmly declaring that it was not included in the contract, and that it

was worth a quarter to have it go in the picture. The pipe, by the way,

was of clay, and of the two-for-a-cent kind. But I had to give in. The

man, scarce ten seconds employed at honest labor, even at sitting down,

at which he was an undoubted expert, had gone on strike. He knew his

rights and the value of "work," and was not to be cheated out of either.

[Illustration: THE TRAMP.]

Whence these tramps, and why the tramping? are questions oftener asked

than answered. Ill-applied charity and idleness answer the first

query. They are the whence, and to a large extent the why also. Once

started on the career of a tramp, the man keeps to it because it is

the laziest. Tramps and toughs profess the same doctrine, that the

world owes them a living, but from stand-points that tend in different

directions. The tough does not become a tramp, save in rare instances,

when old and broken down. Even then usually he is otherwise disposed

of. The devil has various ways of taking care of his own. Nor is the

tramps' army recruited from any certain class. All occupations and

most grades of society yield to it their contingent of idleness.

Occasionally, from one cause or another, a recruit of a better stamp is

forced into the ranks; but the first acceptance of alms puts a brand on

the able-bodied man which his moral nature rarely hold out to efface.

He seldom recovers his lost caste. The evolution is gradual, keeping

step with the increasing shabbiness of his clothes and corresponding

loss of self-respect, until he reaches the bottom in "the Bend."

Of the tough the tramp doctrine that the world owes him a living makes

a thief; of the tramp a coward. Numbers only make him bold unless he

has to do with defenceless women. In the city the policemen keep him

straight enough. The women rob an occasional clothes-line when no one

is looking, or steal the pail and scrubbing-brush with which they are

set to clean up in the station-house lodging-rooms after their night's

sleep. At the police station the roads of the tramp and the tough again

converge. In mid-winter, on the coldest nights, the sanitary police

corral the tramps here and in their lodging-houses and vaccinate them,

despite their struggles and many oaths that they have recently been

"scraped." The station-house is the sieve that sifts out the chaff from

the wheat, if there be any wheat there. A man goes from his first

night's sleep on the hard slab of a police station lodging-room to a

deck-hand's berth on an out-going steamer, to the recruiting office, to

any work that is honest, or he goes "to the devil or the dives, same

thing," says my friend, the Sergeant, who knows.

How the Other Half Lives: Studies Among the Tenements of New York · 第 7 / 25 章