sorts of fruits, which we might use with great pleasure and safety
temperately: Mammeas, Guayvas, Palmitos, Pinos, Oranges, Lemons, and
divers other; from eating of which they dissuaded us in any case, unless
we eat very few of them, and those first dry roasted, as Plantains,
Potatoes, and such like.
In journeying, as oft as by chance they found any wild swine, of which
those hills and valleys have store, they would ordinarily, six at a
time, deliver their burdens to the rest of their fellows, pursue,
kill and bring away after us, as much as they could carry, and time
permitted. One day as we travelled, the Cimaroons found an otter, and
prepared it to be drest: our Captain marvelling at it, PEDRO, our chief
Cimaroon, asked him, "Are you a man of war, and in want; and yet doubt
whether this be meat, that hath blood?"
Herewithal our Captain rebuked himself secretly, that he had so slightly
considered of it before.
The third day of our journey (6th February), they brought us to a town
of their own, seated near a fair river, on the side of a hill, environed
with a dyke of eight feet broad, and a thick mud wall of ten feet high,
sufficient to stop a sudden surpriser. It had one long and broad street,
lying east and west, and two other cross streets of less breadth and
length: there were in it some five or six and fifty households; which
were kept so clean and sweet, that not only the houses, but the very
streets were very pleasant to behold. In this town we saw they lived
very civilly and cleanly. For as soon as we came thither, they washed
themselves in the river; and changed their apparel, as also their women
do wear, which was very fine and fitly made somewhat after the Spanish
fashion, though nothing so costly. This town is distant thirty-five
leagues from Nombre de Dios and forty-five from Panama. It is
plentifully stored with many sorts of beasts and fowl, with plenty of
maize and sundry fruits.
Touching their affection in religion, they have no kind of priests,
only they held the Cross in great reputation. But at our Captain's
persuasion, they were contented to leave their crosses, and to learn the
_Lord's Prayer_, and to be instructed in some measure concerning GOD's
true worship. They kept a continual watch in four parts, three miles off
their town, to prevent the mischiefs, which the Spaniards intend against
them, by the conducting of some of their own coats [i.e., Cimaroons],
which having been taken by the Spaniards have been enforced thereunto:
wherein, as we learned, sometimes the Spaniards have prevailed over
them, especially when they lived less careful; but since, they [watch]
against the Spaniards, whom they killed like beasts, as often as they
take them in the woods; having aforehand understood of their coming.
We stayed with them that night, and the next day (7th February) till
noon; during which time, they related unto us diverse very strange
accidents, that had fallen out between them and the Spaniards, namely
one. A gallant gentleman entertained by the Governor of the country,
undertook, the year last past (1572), with 150 soldiers, to put this
town to the sword, men, women, and children. Being conducted to it by
one of them, that had been taken prisoner, and won by great gifts; he
surprised it half an hour before day, by which occasion most of the
men escaped, but many of their women and children were slaughtered, or
taken: but the same morning by sun rising (after that their guide was
slain, in following another man's wife, and that the Cimaroons had
assembled themselves in their strength) they behaved themselves in such
sort, and drove the Spaniards to such extremity, that what with the
disadvantage of the woods (having lost their guide and thereby their
way), what with famine and want, there escaped not past thirty of them,
to return answer to those which sent them.
Their king [chief] dwelt in a city within sixteen leagues southeast of
Panama; which is able to make 1,700 fighting men.
They all intreated our Captain very earnestly, to make his abode with
them some two or three days; promising that by that time, they would
double his strength if he thought good. But he thanking them for their
offer, told them, that "He could stay no longer! It was more than time
to prosecute his purposed voyage. As for strength, he would wish no more
than he had, although he might have presently twenty times as much!"
Which they took as proceeding not only from kindness, but also from
magnanimity; and therefore, they marched forth, that afternoon, with
great good will.
This was the order of our march. Four of those Cimaroons that best knew
the ways, went about a mile distance before us, breaking boughs as they
went, to be a direction to those that followed; but with great silence,
which they also required us to keep.
Then twelve of them were as it were our Vanguard, other twelve, our
Rearward. We with their two Captains in the midst.
All the way was through woods very cool and pleasant, by reason of
those goodly and high trees, that grow there so thick, that it is cooler
travelling there under them in that hot region, than it is in the most
parts of England in the summer time. This gave a special encouragement
unto us all, that we understood there was a great Tree about the midway,
from which, we might at once discern the North Sea from whence we came,
and the South Sea whither we were going.
The fourth day following (11th February) we came to the height of
the desired hill, a very high hill, lying East and West, like a ridge
between the two seas, about ten of the clock: where [PEDRO] the chiefest
of these Cimaroons took our Captain by the hand, and prayed him to
follow him, if he was desirous to see at once the two seas, which he had
so long longed for.
Here was that goodly and great high Tree, in which they had cut and made
divers steps, to ascend up near unto the top, where they had also made
a convenient bower, wherein ten or twelve men might easily sit: and from
thence we might, without any difficulty, plainly see the Atlantic Ocean
whence now we came, and the South Atlantic [i.e., Pacific Ocean] so much
desired. South and north of this Tree, they had felled certain trees,
that the prospect might be the clearer; and near about the Tree there
were divers strong houses, that had been built long before, as well
by other Cimaroons as by these, which usually pass that way, as being
inhabited in divers places in those waste countries.
After our Captain had ascended to this bower, with the chief Cimaroon,
and having, as it pleased God, at that time, by reason of the brize
[breeze], a very fair day, had seen that sea, of which he had heard such
golden reports: he "besought Almighty God of His goodness, to give him
life and leave to sail once in an English ship, in that sea!" And then
calling up all the rest of our [17 English] men, he acquainted JOHN
OXNAM especially with this his petition and purpose, if it would
please God to grant him that happiness. Who understanding it, presently
protested, that "unless our Captain did beat him from his company, he
would follow him, by God's grace!"
Thus all, thoroughly satisfied with the sight of the seas, descended;
and after our repast, continued our ordinary march through woods, yet
two days more as before: without any great variety. But then (13th
February) we came to march in a champion country, where the grass
groweth, not only in great lengths as the knot grass groweth in many
places, but to such height, that the inhabitants are fain to burn it
thrice in the year, that it may be able to feed the cattle, of which
they have thousands.
For it is a kind of grass with a stalk, as big as a great wheaten reed,
which hath a blade issuing from the top of it, on which though the
cattle feed, yet it groweth every day higher, until the top be too high
for an ox to reach. Then the inhabitants are wont to put fire to it, for
the space of five or six miles together; which notwithstanding after it
is thus burnt, within three days, springeth up fresh like green corn.
Such is the great fruitfulness of the soil: by reason of the evenness of
the day and night, and the rich dews which fall every morning.
In these three last days' march in the champion, as we past over the
hills, we might see Panama five or six times a day; and the last day
(14th February) we saw the ships riding in the road.
But after that we were come within a day's journey of Panama, our
Captain (understanding by the Cimaroons that the Dames of Panama are
wont to send forth hunters and fowlers for taking of sundry dainty fowl,
which the land yieldeth; by whom if we marched not very heedfully, we
might be descried) caused all his company to march out of all ordinary
way, and that with as great heed, silence, and secrecy, as possibly they
might, to the grove (which was agreed on four days before) lying within
a league of Panama, where we might lie safely undiscovered near the
highway, that leadeth from thence to Nombre de Dios.
Thence we sent a chosen Cimaroon, one that had served a master in Panama
before time, in such apparel as the Negroes of Panama do use to wear, to
be our espial, to go into the town, to learn the certain night, and
time of the night, when the carriers laded the Treasure from the King's
Treasure House to Nombre de Dios. For they are wont to take their
journey from Panama to Venta Cruz, which is six leagues, ever by night;
because the country is all champion, and consequently by day very hot.
But from Venta Cruz to Nombre de Dios as oft as they travel by land with
their treasure, they travel always by day and not by night, because all
that way is full of woods, and therefore very fresh and cool; unless
the Cimaroons happily encounter them, and made them sweat with fear,
as sometimes they have done: whereupon they are glad to guard their
_Recoes_ [i.e., Recuas, the Spanish word for a drove of beasts of
burden; meaning here, a mule train] with soldiers as they pass that way.
This last day, our Captain did behold and view the most of all that fair
city, discerning the large street which lieth directly from the sea into
the land, South and North.
By three of the clock, we came to this grove; passing for the more
secrecy alongst a certain river, which at that time was almost dried up.
Having disposed of ourselves in the grove, we despatched our spy an hour
before night, so that by the closing in of the evening, he might be in
the city; as he was. Whence presently he returned unto us, that which
very happily he understood by companions of his. That the Treasurer of
Lima intending to pass into Spain in the first _Adviso_ (which was a
ship of 350 tons, a very good sailer), was ready that night to take his
journey towards Nombre de Dios, with his daughter and family: having
fourteen mules in company: of which eight were laden with gold, and one
with jewels. And farther, that there were two other Recuas, of fifty
mules in each, laden with victuals for the most part, with some little
quantity of silver, to come forth that night after the other.
There are twenty-eight of these Recuas; the greatest of them is of
seventy mules, the less of fifty; unless some particular man hire for
himself, ten, twenty, or thirty, as he hath need.
Upon this notice, we forthwith marched four leagues, till we came within
two leagues of Venta Cruz, in which march two of our Cimaroons which
were sent before, by scent of his match, found and brought a Spaniard,
whom they had found asleep by the way, by scent of the said match, and
drawing near thereby, heard him taking his breath as he slept; and being
but one, they fell upon him, stopped his mouth from crying, put out his
match, and bound him so, that they well near strangled him by that time
he was brought unto us.
By examining him, we found all that to be true, which our spy had
reported to us, and that he was a soldier entertained with others by the
Treasurer, for guard and conduct of this treasure, from Venta Cruz to
Nombre de Dios.
This soldier having learned who our Captain was, took courage, and was
bold to make two requests unto him. The one that "He would command his
Cimaroons which hated the Spaniards, especially the soldiers extremely,
to spare his life; which he doubted not but they would do at his
charge." The other was, that "seeing he was a soldier, and assured him,
that they should have that night more gold, besides jewels, and pearls
of great price, then all they could carry (if not, then he was to be
dealt with how they would); but if they all found it so, then it might
please our Captain to give unto him, as much as might suffice for him
and his mistress to live upon, as he had heard our Captain had done to
divers others: for which he would make his name as famous as any of them
which had received like favour."
Being at the place appointed, our Captain with half his men [8 English
and 15 Cimaroons], lay on one side of the way, about fifty paces off in
the long grass; JOHN OXNAM with the Captain of the Cimaroons, and the
other half, lay on the other side of the way, at the like distance: but
so far behind, that as occasion served, the former company might take
the foremost mules by the heads, and the hindmost because the mules tied
together, are always driven one after another; and especially that if we
should have need to use our weapons that night, we might be sure not to
endamage our fellows. We had not lain thus in ambush much above an hour,
but we heard the _Recuas_ coming both from the city to Venta Cruz, and
from Venta Cruz to the city, which hath a very common and great trade,
when the fleets are there. We heard them by reason they delight much to
have deep-sounding bells, which, in a still night, are heard very far
off.
Now though there were as great charge given as might be, that none of
our men should shew or stir themselves, but let all that came from Venta
Cruz to pass quietly; yea, their _Recuas_ also, because we knew that
they brought nothing but merchandise from thence: yet one of our men,
called ROBERT PIKE, haven drunken too much _aqua vitae_ without water,
forgot himself, and enticing a Cimaroon forth with him was gone hard
to the way, with intent to have shown his forwardness on the foremost
mules. And when a cavalier from Venta Cruz, well mounted, with his page
running at his stirrup, passed by, unadvisedly he rose up to see what he
was: but the Cimaroon of better discretion pulled him down, and lay
upon him, that he might not discover them any more. Yet by this, the
gentleman had taken notice by seeing one half all in white: for that we
had all put our shirts over our other apparel, that we might be sure to
know our own men in the pell mell in the night. By means of this
sight, the cavalier putting spurs to his horse, rode a false gallop; as
desirous not only himself to be free of this doubt which he imagined,
but also to give advertisement to others that they might avoid it.
Our Captain who had heard and observed by reason of the hardness of the
ground and stillness of the night, the change of this gentleman's trot
to a gallop, suspected that he was discovered, but could not imagine
by whose fault, neither did the time give him leisure to search. And
therefore considering that it might be, by reason of the danger of the
place, well known to ordinary travellers: we lay still in expectation
of the Treasurer's coming; and he had come forward to us, but that this
horseman meeting him, and (as we afterwards learnt by the other Recuas)
making report to him, what he had seen presently that night, what he
heard of Captain DRAKE this long time, and what he conjectured to
be most likely: viz., that the said Captain DRAKE, or some for him,
disappointed of his expectation, of getting any great treasure, both
at Nombre de Dios and other places, was by some means or other come
by land, in covert through the woods, unto this place, to speed of his
purpose: and thereupon persuaded him to turn his _Recua_ out of the way,
and let the other _Recuas_ which were coming after to pass on. They were
whole _Recuas_, and loaded but with victuals for the most part, so that
the loss of them were far less if the worst befell, and yet they should
serve to discover them as well as the best.
Thus by the recklessness of one of our company, and by the carefulness
of this traveller; we were disappointed of a most rich booty: which
is to be thought GOD would not should be taken, for that, by all
likelihood, it was well gotten by that Treasurer.
The other two _Recuas_ were no sooner come up to us, but being stayed
and seized on. One of the Chief Carriers, a very sensible fellow, told
our Captain by what means we were discovered, and counselled us to shift
for ourselves betimes, unless we were able to encounter the whole force
of the city and country before day would be about us.
It pleased us but little, that we were defeated of our golden _Recua_,
and that in these we could find not past some two horse-loads of silver:
but it grieved our Captain much more, that he was discovered, and that
by one of his own men. But knowing it bootless to grieve at things
past, and having learned by experience, that all safety in extremity,
consisteth in taking of time [i. e., by the forelock, making an instant
decision]; after no long consultation with PEDRO the chief of our
Cimaroons, who declared that "there were but two ways for him: the one
to travel back again the same secret way they came, for four leagues
space into the woods, or else to march forward, by the highway to Venta
Cruz, being two leagues, and make a way with his sword through the
enemies." He resolved, considering the long and weary marches that we
had taken, and chiefly that last evening and day before: to take now the
shortest and readiest way: as choosing rather to encounter his enemies
while he had strength remaining, than to be encountered or chased when
we should be worn out with weariness: principally now having the mules
to ease them that would, some part of the way.
Therefore commanding all to refresh themselves moderately with such
store of victuals as we had here in abundance: he signified his
resolution and reason to them all; asking PEDRO by name, "Whether he
would give his hand not to forsake him?" because he knew that the rest
of the Cimaroons would also then stand fast and firm, so faithful are
they to their captain. He being very glad of his resolution, gave our
Captain his hand, and vowed that "He would rather die at his foot, than
leave him to the enemies, if he held this course."
So having strengthened ourselves for the time, we took our journey
towards Venta Cruz, with help of the mules till we came within a mile of
the town, where we turned away the _Recuas_, charging the conductors of
them, not to follow us upon pain of their lives.
There, the way is cut through the woods, above ten or twelve feet broad,
so as two _Recuas_ may pass one by another. The fruitfulness of the
soil, causeth that with often shredding and ridding the way, those woods
grow as thick as our thickest hedges in England that are oftenest cut.
To the midst of this wood, a company of soldiers, which continually lay
in that town, to defend it against the Cimaroons, were come forth, to
stop us if they might on the way; if not, to retreat to their strength,
and there to expect us. A Convent [Monastery] of Friars, of whom one was
become a Leader, joined with these soldiers, to take such part as they
did.
Our Captain understanding by our Cimaroons, which with great heedfulness
and silence, marched now, but about half a flight-shot before us, that
it was time for us to arm and take us to our weapons, for they knew the
enemy was at hand, by smelling of their match and hearing of a noise:
had given us charge, that no one of us should make any shot, until the
Spaniards had first spent their volley: which he thought they would not
do before they had spoken, as indeed fell out.
For as soon as we were within hearing, a Spanish Captain cried out,
"Hoo!" Our Captain answered him likewise, and being demanded "_Que
gente?_" replied "Englishmen!" But when the said Commander charged him,
"In the name of the King of Spain, his Master, that we should yield
ourselves; promising in the word and faith of a Gentleman Soldier,
that if we would so do, he would use us with all courtesy." Our Captain
drawing somewhat near him said: "That for the honour of the Queen of
England, his Mistress, he must have passage that way," and therewithal
discharged his pistol towards him.
Upon this, they presently shot off their whole volley; which, though it
lightly wounded our Captain, and divers of our men, yet it caused death
to one only of our company called JOHN HARRIS, who was so powdered with
hail-shot, (which they all used for the most part as it seemed, or else
"quartered," for that our men were hurt with that kind) that we could
not recover his life, though he continued all that day afterwards with
us.
Presently as our Captain perceived their shot to come slacking, as the
latter drops of a great shower of rain, with his whistle he gave us
his usual signal, to answer them with our shot and arrows, and so march
onwards upon the enemy, with intent to come to handy-strokes, and to
have joined with them; whom when we found retired as to a place of some
better strength, he increased his pace to prevent them if he might.
Which the Cimaroons perceiving, although by terror of the shot
continuing, they were for the time stept aside; yet as soon as they
discerned by hearing that we marched onward, they all rushed forward
one after another, traversing the way, with their arrows ready in their
bows, and their manner of country dance or leap, very singing _Yo peho!
Yo peho_ and so got before us, where they continued their leap and song,
after the manner of their own country wars, till they and we overtook
some of the enemy, who near the town's end, had conveyed themselves
within the woods, to have taken their stand at us, as before.
But our Cimaroons now thoroughly encouraged, when they saw our
resolution, brake in through the thickets, on both sides of them,
forcing them to fly, Friars and all! although divers of our men were
wounded, and one Cimaroon especially was run through with one of their
pikes, whose courage and mind served him so well notwithstanding, that
he revenged his own death ere he died, by killing him that had given him
that deadly wound.
We, with all speed, following this chase, entered the town of Venta
Cruz, being of about forty or fifty houses, which had both a Governor
and other officers and some fair houses, with many storehouses large and
strong for the wares, which brought thither from Nombre de Dios, by the
river of Chagres, so to be transported by mules to Panama: beside the
Monastery, where we found above a thousand bulls and pardons, newly sent
from Rome.
In those houses we found three gentlewomen, which had lately been
delivered in Nombre de Dios; because it hath been observed of long time,
as they reported to us, that no Spaniard or white woman could ever
be delivered in Nombre de Dios with safety of their children but that
within two or three days they died; notwithstanding that being born
and brought up in this Venta Cruz or Panama five or six years, and then
brought to Nombre de Dios, if they escaped sickness the first or second
month, they commonly lived in it as healthily as in any other place:
although no stranger (as they say) can endure there any long time,
without great danger of death or extreme sickness.
Though at our first coming into the town with arms so suddenly, these
ladies were in great fear, yet because our Captain had given straight
charge to all the Cimaroons (that while they were in his company, they
should never hurt any woman nor man that had not a weapon in his hand
to do them hurt; which they earnestly promised, and no less faithfully
performed) they had no wrong offered them, nor any thing taken from
them, to the worth of a garter; wherein, albeit they had indeed
sufficient safety and security, by those of his company, which our
Captain sent unto them, of purpose to comfort them: yet they never
ceased most earnestly entreating, that our Captain would vouchsafe to
come to them himself for their more safety; which when he did, in their
presence reporting the charge he had first been given, and the assurance
of his men, they were comforted.