CHAPTER XVII.

NATURAL PRODUCTIONS OF SIAM

The varieties of animal and vegetable life with which the tropics

everywhere abound are in Siam almost innumerable. From the gigantic

elephant and rhinoceros in the jungle to the petty mosquitoes that

infest the dwellings and molest the slumbers of the crowded city; from

the gigantic Indian fig-tree to the tiniest garden-blossom, an almost

infinite diversity of life and growth invites attention. The work of

scientific observation and classification has been, as yet, only very

imperfectly accomplished. Much has been done by the missionaries,

especially by Dr. House of the American Presbyterian Mission, who is a

competent and scientific observer. And the lamented Mouhot, gathered

vast and valuable collections in the almost unexplored regions to which

he penetrated. But no doubt there are still undiscovered treasures of

which men of science will presently lay hold.

"Elephants," says Bowring, "are abundant in the forests of Siam, and

grow sometimes to the height of twelve or thirteen feet. The habits of

the elephant are gregarious; but though he does not willingly attack a

man, he is avoided as dangerous; and a troop of elephants will, when

going down to a river to drink, submerge a boat and its passengers. The

destruction even of the wild elephant is prohibited by royal orders, yet

many are surreptitiously destroyed for the sake of their tusks. At a

certain time of the year tame female elephants are let loose in the

forests. They are recalled by the sound of a horn, and return

accompanied by wild males, which they compel, by blows of the proboscis,

to enter the walled prisons which have been prepared for their capture.

The process of taming commences by keeping them for several days without

food. Then a cord is passed round their feet, and they are attached to a

strong column. The delicacies of which they are most fond are then

supplied them, such as sugar-canes, plantains, and fresh herbs, and at

the end of a few days the animal is domesticated and resigned to his

fate.

"Without the aid of the elephant it would scarcely be possible to

traverse the woods and jungles of Siam. He makes his way as he goes,

crushing with his trunk all that resists his progress; over deep

morasses or sloughs he drags himself on his knees and belly. When he has

to cross a stream he ascertains the depth by his proboscis, advances

slowly, and when he is out of his depth he swims, breathing through his

trunk, which is visible when the whole of his body is submerged. He

descends into ravines impassable by man, and by the aid of his trunk

ascends steep mountains. His ordinary pace is about four to five miles

an hour, and he will journey day and night if properly fed. When weary,

he strikes the ground with his trunk, making a sound resembling a horn,

which announces to his driver that he desires repose. In Siam the

howdah is a great roofed basket, in which the traveller, with the aid of

his cushions, comfortably ensconces himself. The motion is disagreeable

at first, but ceases to be so after a little practice.

"Elephants in Siam are much used in warlike expeditions, both as

carriers and combatants. All the nobles are mounted on them, and as many

as a thousand are sometimes collected. They are marched against

palisades and entrenchments. In the late war with Cochin-China the

Siamese general surprised the enemy with some hundreds of elephants, to

whose tails burning torches were attached. They broke into the camp, and

destroyed more than a thousand Cochin-Chinese, the remainder of the army

escaping by flight.

"Of elephants in Siam, M. de Bruguières gives some curious anecdotes. He

says that there was one in Bangkok which was habitually sent by his

keeper to collect a supply of food, which he never failed to do, and

that it was divided regularly between his master and himself on his

return home; and that there was another elephant, which stood at the

door of the king's palace, before whom a large vessel filled with rice

was placed, which he helped out with a spoon to every talapoin (bonze)

who passed.

"His account of the Siamese mode of capturing wild elephants is not

dissimilar to that which has been already given. But he adds that in

taming the captured animals every species of torture is used. He is

lifted by a machine in the air, fire is placed under his belly, he is

compelled to fast, he is goaded with sharp irons, till reduced to

absolute submission. The tame elephants co-operate with their masters,

and, when thoroughly subdued, the victim is marched away with the rest.

"Some curious stories are told by La Loubère of the sagacity of

elephants, as reported by the Siamese. In one case an elephant, upon

whose head his keeper had cracked a cocoanut, kept the fragments of the

nut-shell for several days between his forelegs, and having found an

opportunity of trampling on and killing the keeper, the elephant

deposited the fragments upon the dead body.

"I heard many instances of sagacity which might furnish interesting

anecdotes for the zoölogist. The elephants are undoubtedly proud of

their gorgeous trappings, and of the attentions they receive. I was

assured that the removal of the gold and silver rings from their tusks

was resented by the elephants as an indignity, and that they exhibited

great satisfaction at their restoration. The transfer of an elephant

from a better to a worse stabling is said to be accompanied with marks

of displeasure."

If the elephant is in Siam the king of beasts, the white elephant is the

king of elephants. This famous animal is simply an albino, and owes his

celebrity and sanctity to the accident of disease. He is not really

white (except in spots); his color is a faded pink, or, as Bowring

states of the specimen he saw, a light mahogany. In September, 1870,

however, a very extraordinary elephant arrived in Bangkok, having been

escorted from Paknam with many royal honors. A large part of the body of

this animal was really white, and great excitement and delight was

produced by its arrival at the capital. The elephant which Bowring saw

and described died within a year after his visit. She occupied a large

apartment within the grounds of the first king's palace, and not far

off, in an elevated position, was placed a golden chair for the king to

occupy when he should come to visit her. "She had a number of

attendants, who were feeding her with fresh grass (which I thought she

treated somewhat disdainfully), sugar-cane, and plantains. She was

richly caparisoned in cloth of gold and ornaments, some of which she

tore away and was chastised for the offence by a blow on the proboscis

by one of the keepers. She was fastened to an upright pole by ropes

covered with scarlet cloth, but at night was released, had the liberty

of the room, and slept against a matted and ornamented partition,

sloping from the floor at about an angle of forty-five degrees. In a

corner of the room was a caged monkey, of pure white, but seemingly very

active and mischievous. The prince fed the elephant with sugar-cane,

which appeared her favorite food; the grass she seemed disposed to toss

about rather than to eat. She had been trained to make a salaam by

lifting her proboscis over the neck, and did so more than once at the

prince's bidding. The king sent me the bristles of the tail of the last

white elephant to look at. They were fixed in a gold handle, such as

ladies use for their nosegays at balls."

There seems some reason for believing that the condition of the white

elephant is not at present quite so luxurious as it used to be, and a

correspondent of Miss Cort is quoted as saying--"I think it is time the

popular fallacy about feeding the white elephant from gold dishes, and

keeping him in regal splendor was exploded. Except on state occasions it

has no foundation in fact." Advancing civilization begins to make it

evident, even to the Siamese, that there are other things more admirable

and more worthy of reverence. It was noticed that the late second king,

especially, did not always speak of the noble creature with the

solemnity which ancient usage would have justified, and even seemed to

think that there was something droll in the veneration which was given

to it. But the superstition in regard to it is by no means extinct, and

the presence of one of these animals is still believed to be a pledge of

prosperity to the king and country. "Hence," says Bowring, "the white

elephant is sought with intense ardor, the fortunate finder rewarded

with honors, and he is treated with attention almost reverential. This

prejudice is traditional and dates from the earliest times. When a

tributary king or governor of a province has captured a white elephant

he is directed to open a road through the forest for the comfortable

transit of the sacred animal, and when he reaches the Meinam he is

received on a magnificent raft, with a chintz canopy and garlanded with

flowers. He occupies the centre of the raft and is pampered with cakes

and sugar. A noble of high rank, sometimes a prince of royal blood (and

on the last occasion both the first and second kings), accompanied by a

great concourse of barges, with music and bands of musicians, go forth

to welcome his arrival. Every barge has a rope attached to the raft, and

perpetual shouts of joy attend the progress of the white elephant to the

capital, where on his arrival he is met by the great dignitaries of the

state, and by the monarch himself, who gives the honored visitor some

sonorous name and confers on him the rank of nobility. He is conducted

to a palace which is prepared for him, where a numerous court awaits

him, and a number of officers and slaves are appointed to administer to

his wants in vessels of gold and silver."

It is believed that these albinos are found only in Siam and its

dependencies, and the white elephant (on a red ground) has been made the

flag of the kingdom. It is probable enough that the festival of the

white elephant, which at the present day is celebrated in Japan (the

elephant being an enormous pasteboard structure "marching on the feet of

men enclosed in each one of the four legs"), may be a tradition of the

intercourse between that country and Siam, which was formerly more

intimate than at present.

"The white monkeys enjoy almost the same privileges as the white

elephant; they are called _pája_, have household and other officers, but

must yield precedence to the elephant. The Siamese say that 'the monkey

is a man--not very handsome to be sure; but no matter, he is not less

our brother.' If he does not speak, it is from prudence, dreading lest

the king should compel him to labor for him without pay; nevertheless,

it seems he has spoken, for he was once sent in the quality of

generalissimo to fight, if I mistake not, an army of giants. With one

kick he split a mountain in two, and report goes that he finished the

war with honor.

"The Siamese have more respect for white animals than for those of any

other color. They say that when a talapoin meets a white cock he salutes

him--an honor he will not pay a prince."

Tigers are abundant in the jungle, but are more frequently dangerous to

other animals, both wild and domestic, than to men. The rhinoceros, the

buffalo, bears, wild pigs, deer, gazelles, and other smaller animals

inhabit the forests. Monkeys are abundant. In Cambodia Mouhot found

several new species. And the orang-outang is found on the Malayan

peninsula. Various species of cats, and among them tailless cats like

those of Japan, are also to be found. Bats are abundant, some of them

said to be nearly as large as a cat. They are fond of dwelling among the

trees of the temple-grounds, and Pallegoix says (but it seems that the

good Bishop must have overstated the case, as other travellers have

failed to notice such a phenomenon) that "at night they hang over the

city of Bangkok like a dense black cloud, which appears to be leagues in

length."

Birds are abundant, and often of great size and beauty; some of them

sweet singers, some of them skilful mimics, some of them useful as

scavengers. Peacocks, parrots, parroquets, crows, jays, pigeons, in

great numbers and variety, inhabit the forest trees.

What the elephant is in the forest, the crocodile is in the rivers, the

king of creeping things. The eggs of the crocodile are valued as a

delicacy; but the business of collecting them is attended with so many

risks that it is not regarded as a popular or cheerful avocation. It

will be well for the collector to have a horse at hand on which he can

take immediate flight. The infuriated mother seldom fails, says

Pallegoix, to rush out in defence of her progeny.

"At Bangkok there are professional crocodile-charmers. If a person is

reported to have been seized by a crocodile, the king orders the animal

to be captured. The charmer, accompanied by many boats, and a number of

attendants with spears and ropes, visits the spot where the presence of

the crocodile has been announced, and, after certain ceremonies, writes

to invite the presence of the crocodile. The crocodile-charmer, on his

appearance, springs on his back and gouges his eyes with his fingers;

while the attendants spring into the water, some fastening ropes round

his throat, others round his legs, till the exhausted monster is dragged

to the shore and deposited in the presence of the authorities." Father

Pallegoix affirms that the Annamite Christians of his communion are

eminently adroit in these dangerous adventures, and that he has himself

seen as many as fifty crocodiles in a single village so taken, and bound

to the uprights of the houses. But his account of the Cambodian mode of

capture is still more remarkable. He says that the Cambodian river-boats

carry hooks, which, by being kept in motion, catch hold of the

crocodiles, that during the struggle a knot is thrown over the animal's

tail, that the extremity of the tail is cut off, and a sharp bamboo

passed through the vertebræ of the spine into the brain, when the animal

expires.

There are many species of lizards, the largest is the _takuet_. His name

has passed into a Siamese proverb, as the representative of a crafty,

double-dealing knave, as the takuet has two tongues, or rather one

tongue divided into two." This is perhaps the lizard (about twice as

large as the American bull-frog) which comes into the dwellings

unmolested and makes himself extremely useful by his destruction of

vermin. He is a noisy creature, however, with a prodigious voice. He

begins with a loud and startling whirr-r-r-r, like the drumming of a

partridge or the running down of an alarm-clock, and follows up the

sensation which he thus produces by the distinct utterance of the

syllables, "To-kay," four or five times repeated. He is not only

harmless, but positively useful, but it takes a good while for a

stranger to become so well acquainted with him that the sound of his cry

from the ceiling, over one's bed for instance, and waking one from a

sound sleep, is not somewhat alarming.

There is no lack of serpents, large and small. Pallegoix mentions one

that will follow any light or torch in the darkness, and is only to be

avoided by extinguishing or abandoning the light which has attracted

him. There are serpent-charmers, as in other parts of India. They

extract the poison from certain kinds of vipers, and then train them to

fight with one another, to dance, and perform various tricks.

Pallegoix mentions one or two varieties of fish that are interesting,

and, so far as known, peculiar to Siamese waters. One, "a large fish,

called the mengphu, weighing from thirty to forty pounds, of a bright

greenish-blue color, will spring out of the water to attack and bite

bathers." He says there "is also a tetraodon, called by the Siamese the

moon, without teeth, but with jaws as sharp as scissors. It can inflate

itself so as to become round as a ball. It attacks the toes, the calf,

and the thighs of bathers, and, as it carries away a portion of the

flesh, a wound is left which it is difficult to heal."

Of centipedes, scorpions, ants, mosquitoes, and the various pests and

plagues common to all tropical countries it is not necessary to speak in

detail.

Sir John Bowring considered that sugar was likely to become the

principal export of Siam, but thus far it would seem that rice has taken

the precedence. The gutta-percha tree, all kinds of palms, and of fruits

a vast and wonderful variety (among which are some peculiar to Siam),

are abundant. The durian and mangosteen are the most remarkable, and

have already been described. So far as is known, they grow only in the

regions adjacent to the Gulf of Siam and the Straits of Sunda. And

though there are many fruits common to these and to all tropical

countries which are more useful (such as the banana, of which there are

said to be in Siam not less than fifty varieties, "in size from a little

finger to an elephant's tusk"), there are none more curious than these.

The season of the mangosteen is the same with that of the durian. The

tree grows about fifteen feet high, and the foliage is extremely glossy

and dark. The fruit may be eaten in large quantities with safety, and is

of incomparable delicacy of flavor. No fruit in the world has won such

praises as the mangosteen.

Of the mineral treasures of Siam, enough has been already indicated in

the description of the wealth and magnificence which is everywhere

apparent. We need only add that coal of excellent quality and in great

abundance has been recently discovered, and that the country is also

rich in petroleum, which awaits the wells and refineries by which it may

be profitably used. Gold and silver mines are both known but little is

produced from them. The government is obliged to import Mexican dollars

in order to melt and recoin them in the new mint.

Siam : The Land of the White Elephant as It Was and Is · 第 17 / 19 章