A ROYAL GENTLEMAN
Soon after arriving in Bangkok, in 1857, on the occasion referred to in
the last chapter, the present editor was invited to an interview with
the second king. The account of that interview was written while it was
still a matter of recent memory; and it seems better to reproduce the
story, for the sake of the freshness with which the incidents described
in it were recorded, rather than to attempt the rewriting of it. It is a
characteristic picture of an extraordinary man, and of the manners and
customs which still prevail for the most part (with some important
exceptions) at the court of Siam. This king was the grandson of the
founder of the present dynasty, and was the junior of the two princes
who, by the usurpation of their half-brother, were, for twenty-seven
years, kept out of their birthright. Even so long ago as 1837, an
intelligent traveller who visited Siam said concerning him: "No man in
the kingdom is so qualified to govern well. His naturally fine mind is
enlarged and improved by intercourse with foreigners, by the perusal of
English works, by studying Euclid and Newton, by freeing himself from a
bigoted attachment to Buddhism, by candidly recognizing our superiority
and a readiness to adopt our arts. He understands the use of the
sextant and chronometer, and was anxious for the latest Nautical
Almanac, which I promised to send him. His little daughters, accustomed
to the sight of foreigners, so far from showing any signs of fear,
always came to sit upon my lap, though the yellow cosmetic on their
limbs was sure to be transferred in part to my dress. One of them took
pride in repeating to me a few words of English, and the other took care
to display her power of projecting the elbow forward,"--an
accomplishment upon which the ladies of Siam still pride themselves, and
in which they are extraordinarily expert.
This was in 1837. How greatly the character of the second king had
developed since that time will appear from the editor's description,
which refers, as has been said, to the year 1857.
* * * * *
One king at a time is commonly thought to be as much as any kingdom has
need of. Indeed, there seems to be a growing tendency among the nations
of the earth to think that even one is one too many, and the popular
prejudice is setting very strongly in favor of none at all.
Nevertheless, there are in Siam (or rather, until very recently, there
were) two kings reigning together, each with the full rank and title of
king, and with no rivalry between them. It is probable that, originally,
a monarchy was the normal condition of the government, and that the
duarchy is of comparatively modern origin. But it is certain that when I
was in the Land of the White Elephant there was a kind of Siamese-twin
arrangement in the kingdom. The two kings were brothers, and though, as
has been said, their rank and title were equal, the real power and work
of government rested on the shoulders of the elder of the two, the other
keeping discreetly and contentedly in the background. Both were men of
noteworthy ability, and deserve to be known and honored for their
personal attainments in civilization, and for what they have done to
lift their kingdom out of degradation and barbarism, and to welcome and
promote intercourse between it and the Western nations. When we remember
the obstinacy of Oriental prejudice against innovation, and the
persistency with which the people wrap themselves in their conceit as in
a garment, we shall the better appreciate the state of things at the
court of the White Elephant, which I am about to describe.
The second king was a man of social disposition, and fond of the company
of strangers. It was, doubtless, owing to this fact that when he heard
that there was an American man-of-war at the mouth of the river, and
that an officer had been sent up to Bangkok to report her arrival, he
sent a messenger and a boat with the request that I would come and see
him. It did not take long for the score of oarsmen, with the short,
quick motion of their paddles, and the grunting energy with which they
plied them, to bring the boat up to the palace gates. For, of course,
the palace has a water-front, and one may pass at one step from among
the thronging boats of the river into the quiet seclusion of the king's
inclosure. Passing through a lofty gateway at the water's edge, we came
to a large and stately temple, about which were priests in
orange-colored drapery trying to screen their shining skulls from the
fierce heat of the morning sun by means of fans. I used to feel sorry
for the priests. Ecclesiastical law and usage compel them to shave every
sign of hair from their heads. Not even a tail is left to them, but they
are as bald as beetles. And when (as in Siam) the sun's rays beat with
almost perpendicular directness, it is no trifling thing to be deprived
of even the natural protection with which the skull is provided.
Whatever can be done with fans toward shielding themselves they do; and,
also, they can, by the same means, shut off their eyes from beholding
vanity, so that a fan is a most important part of the sacerdotal outfit.
Leaving the priests to group themselves in idle picturesqueness near the
royal temple, we pass on by storehouses and treasuries and stables of
the royal elephants, between sentries standing guard with European arms
and in a semi-European uniform, to the armory, where I was to wait until
the king was ready.
The messenger who had hitherto conducted me was known among the foreign
residents of Bangkok as "Captain Dick"--a talkative person, with a
shrewd eye to his own advancement. He spoke good English, and a good
deal of it, and suggested, I remember, certain ways in which it would be
possible for me to further his interests with the king. He had been at
sea, and had perhaps commanded one of the king's sea-going vessels--his
"captaincy" being rather maritime than military. He was quite disposed
to join the embassy, which was at that time getting ready to be sent to
Great Britain. He mentioned, incidentally, that a few of the naval
buttons on my uniform would be a highly acceptable gift for me to offer
him. The confidence and self-assurance with which he had borne himself,
however, began perceptibly to wilt as we drew a little nearer to the
august presence of royalty. And, at the armory, he made me over, in
quite an humble manner, to the king's oldest son, who was to take me to
his father. As I shook hands with the tall, manly, handsome youth who
was waiting for me, I thought him worthy of his princely station. Kings'
sons are not always the heirs of kingly beauty or of kingly virtues; but
here was one who had, at least, the physical endowments which should fit
him for the dignity to which he was born. He was almost the only man I
saw in Siam whose teeth were not blackened nor his mouth distorted by
the chewing of the betel-nut. For the betel-nut is in Siam what the
tobacco-cud is in America, only it is not, I believe, quite so injurious
to the chewer as the tobacco; while, on the other hand, its use is a
little more universal. As between the two, for general offensiveness, I
do not know that there is anything to choose.
The second king, seeking a significant name for his son, chose one which
had been borne, not by an Asiatic, not by an European, but by the
greatest of Americans--George Washington. "What's in a name?" It may
provoke a smile at first, that such a use should be made of the name of
Washington, as if it were the whim of an ignorant and half-savage king.
But when it shall appear, as I shall make it appear before I have
finished, that the Siamese king understood and appreciated the character
of the great man after whom he wished his son to be called, I think that
no American will be content with laughing at him. I own that it moved me
with something more than merely patriotic pride to hear the name of
Washington honored in the remotest corner of the old world. It seemed to
me significant of great progress already achieved toward Christian
civilization, and prophetic of yet greater things to come.
But as the Prince George Washington walked on with me, and I revolved
these great things in my mind, another turn was given to my thoughts.
For when we had gone through a pleasant, shady court, and had come to
the top of a flight of marble steps which took us to the door of the
king's house (a plain and pleasant edifice of mason-work, like the
residence of some private gentleman of wealth in our own country), I
suddenly missed the young man from my side, and turned to look for him.
What change had come over him! The man had been transformed into a
reptile. The tall and graceful youth, princely in look and bearing, was
down on all his marrow-bones, bending his head until it almost touched
the pavement of the portico, and, crawling slowly toward the door,
conducted me with reverent signs and whispers toward the king, his
father, whom I saw coming to meet us.
This was the other side of the picture. And I draw out the incident in
detail because it is characteristic of the strange conflict between the
old barbarism and the new enlightenment which meets one at every turn
in the Land of the White Elephant. There are two tides--one is going
out, the ebb-tide of ignorance, of darkness, of despotic power; and one
is coming in--the flood-tide of knowledge and liberty and all Christian
grace. And, as in the whirl of waters where two currents meet, one never
knows which way his boat may head, so sometimes the drift of things is
backward toward the Orient, and sometimes forward, westward, as the
"star of empire" moves. Each rank has, or until quite recently had, some
who crawl like crocodiles beneath it, and is in its turn compelled to
crawl before the higher. Nor are the members of a nobleman's family
exempt. I was introduced once to one of the wives of a fat, good-natured
prince (a half-brother of the two kings), who was crawling around, with
her head downward, on the floor. I offered my hand as politely as was
possible, and she shuffled up to shake it, and then shuffled off again
into a corner. It was very queer--more so than when I shake hands with
Trip, the spaniel, for then we both of us understand that it is a
joke--but here it was a solemn and ceremonious act of politeness, and
had to be performed with a straight face. The good lady has her revenge,
however, and must enjoy it, when she sees her fat husband, clumsy, and
almost as heavy as an elephant, get down on his hands and knees, as he
has to, in the presence of his majesty the king. I have been told that,
when the Siamese embassy to Great Britain was presented to the queen,
before anybody knew what they were about, the ambassadors were down on
all fours, at the entrance of the audience chamber, and insisted on
crawling like mud-turtles into her majesty's presence. For, consistently
enough, the court of Siam requires of foreigners only what etiquette
requires in the presence of the king or president of their own
country--but when its representatives are sent to foreign courts they
carry their own usage with them. I felt a pardonable pride, and a little
kindling of the "_Civis-Romanus-sum_" spirit, and an appreciable
stiffening of the spinal column as I walked straight forward, while
Prince George Washington crawled beside me. Blessed was the man who
walked uprightly.
Halleck, the sprightliest poet of his native State, in verse which will
be always dear to all who love that good old commonwealth, has told us
how a true son of Connecticut
"Would shake hands with a king upon his throne
And think it kindness to his majesty."
Of course, then, as the king came toward the portico and met us at the
door, that was the thing to do, being also the etiquette at the court of
James Buchanan, who then reigned at Washington. But not even that
venerable functionary, whose manners I have been given to understand
were one of his strong points, could have welcomed a guest with more
gentlemanly politeness than that with which this king of a barbarous
people welcomed me. He spoke good English, and spoke it fluently, and
knew how, with gentlemanly tact, to put his visitor straightway at his
ease. It was hard to believe that I was in a remote and almost unknown
corner of the old world, and not in the new. The conversation was such
as might take place between two gentlemen in a New York parlor. On every
side were evidences of an intelligent and cultivated taste. The room in
which we sat was decorated with engravings, maps, busts, statuettes. The
book-cases were filled with well-selected volumes, handsomely bound.
There were, I remember, various encyclopædias and scientific works.
There was the Abbottsford edition of the Waverly novels, and a bust of
the great Sir Walter overhead. There were some religious works, the
gift, probably, of the American missionaries. And, as if his majesty had
seen the advertisements in the newspapers which implore a discriminating
public to "get the best," there were two copies of Webster's quarto
dictionary, unabridged. Moreover, the king called my particular
attention to these two volumes, and, as if to settle the war of the
dictionaries by an authoritative opinion, said: "I like it very much; I
think it the best dictionary, better than any English." Accordingly the
publishers are hereby authorized to insert the recommendation of the
second king of Siam, with the complimentary notices of other
distinguished critics, in their published advertisements. On the table
lay a recent copy of the London _Illustrated News_, to which the king is
a regular subscriber, and of which he is an interested reader. There was
in it, I remember, a description, with diagrams, of some new invention
of fire-arms, concerning which he wished my opinion, but he knew much
more about it than I did. Some reference was made to my native city,
and I rose to show on the map, which hung before me, where it was
situated, but I found that he knew it very well, and especially that
"they made plenty of guns there." For guns and military affairs he had a
great liking, and indeed for all sorts of science. He was expert in the
use of quadrant and sextant, and could take a lunar observation and work
it out with accuracy. He had his army, distinct from the first king's
soldiers, disciplined and drilled according to European tactics. Their
orders were given in English and were obeyed with great alacrity. He had
a band of Siamese musicians who performed on European instruments,
though I am bound to say that their performance was characterized by
force rather than by harmony. He made them play "Yankee Doodle," and
"Hail Columbia," but if I enjoyed it, it was rather with a patriotic
than with a musical enthusiasm. When they played their own rude music it
was vastly better. But the imperfections of the band were of very small
importance compared with the good will which had prompted the king to
make them learn the American national airs. That good will expressed
itself in various ways. His majesty, who wrote an elegant autograph,
kept up a correspondence with the captain of our ship for a long time
after our visit. And when the captain, a few years later, had risen to
the rank of Admiral, and had made the name of Foote illustrious in his
country's annals, the king wrote to him, expressing his deep interest in
the progress of our conflict with rebellion, and his sincere desire for
the success of our national cause. When kings and peoples, bound to us
by the ties of language and kindred and religion, misunderstood us, and
gave words of sneering censure, or else no words at all, as we were
fighting with the dragon, this king of an Asiatic people, of different
speech, of different race, of different religion, found words of
intelligent and appreciative cheer for us. He had observed the course of
our history, the growth of our nation, the principles of our government.
And though we knew very little about him and his people, he was
thoroughly informed concerning us. So that, as I talked with him, and
saw the refinement and good taste which displayed itself in his manners
and in his dwelling, and the minute knowledge of affairs which his
conversation showed, I began to wonder on what subjects I should find
him ignorant. Once or twice I involuntarily expressed my amazement, and
provoked a good-natured laugh from the king, who seemed quite to
understand it.
And yet this gentlemanly and well-informed man was black. And he wore no
trousers--the mention of which fact reminds me that I have not told what
he did wear. First of all, he wore very little hair on his head,
conforming in this respect to the universal fashion among his
countrymen, and shaving all but a narrow ridge of hair between the crown
and the forehead; and this is cut off at the height of an inch, so that
it stands straight up, looking for all the world like a stiff
blacking-brush, only it can never be needed for such a purpose, because
no Siamese wears shoes. I think the first king, when we called upon him,
had on a pair of slippers, but the second king, if I remember, was
barefooted--certainly he was barelegged. Wound about his waist and
hanging to his knees was a scarf of rich, heavy silk, which one garment
is the entire costume of ordinary life in Siam. The common people, of
course, must have it of cheap cotton, but the nobles wear silk of
beautiful quality and pattern, and when this is wound around the waist
so that the folds hang to the knees, and the ends are thrown over the
shoulders, they are dressed. On state occasions something is added to
this costume, and on all occasions there will be likely to be a
wonderful display of jewels and of gold. So now, the light would flash
once in a while from the superb diamond finger-rings which the king whom
I am describing wore. He wore above his scarf a loose sack of dark-blue
cloth, fastened with a few gold buttons, with a single band of gold-lace
on the sleeves, and an inch or two of gold-lace on the collar. Half
European, half Oriental in his dress, he had combined the two styles
with more of good taste than one could have expected. It was
characteristic of that transition from barbarism to civilization upon
which his kingdom is just entering.
The same process of transition and the same contrast between the two
points of the transition was expressed in other ways. If it be true, for
example, that cookery is a good index of civilization, there came in
presently most civilized cakes and tea and coffee, as nicely made as if,
by some mysterious dumb-waiter they had come down fresh from the
restaurants of Paris. The king made the tea and coffee with his own
hand, and with the conventional inquiry, "Cream and sugar?"--and the
refreshments were served in handsome dishes of solid silver. Besides, I
might have smoked a pipe, quite wonderful by reason of the richness of
its ornament, or drunk his majesty's health in choice wines of his own
importation. The refreshment which was furnished was elegant and ample,
and, if taken as an index of civilization, indicated that the court of
the White Elephant need not be ashamed, even by the side of some that
made much higher claims. But, on the other hand, while the lunch was
going on, Prince George Washington and a great tawny dog who answered to
the name of "Watch," lay prostrate with obsequious reverence on the
floor, receiving with great respect and gratitude any word that the king
might deign to fling to them. One or two noblemen were also present in
the same attitude. Presently there came into the room one of the king's
little children, a beautiful boy of three or four years old, who dropped
on his knees and lifted his joined hands in reverence toward his father.
It was quite the attitude that one sees in some of the pictures of
"little Samuel,"--as if the king were more than man. After the
child--whose sole costume consisted of a string or two of gold beads,
jewelled, and perhaps a pair of bracelets--crawled his mother, who
joined the group of prostrate subjects. The little boy, by reason of his
tender age, was allowed more liberty than the others, and moved about
almost as unembarrassed as the big dog "Watch;" but when he grows older
he will humble himself like the others. To see men and women degraded
literally to a level with the beasts that perish was all the more
strange and sad by contrast with the civilization which was shown in the
conversation and manners of the king, and in all the furniture of his
palace. I half expected to see the portrait of the real George
Washington on the wall blush with shame and indignation as it looked
down on the reptile attitude of his namesake; and I felt a sensation of
relief when, at last, it became time for me to leave, and the young
prince, crawling after me until we reached the steps, was once more on
his legs.
But it seemed to me then, and a subsequent interview with the king
confirmed the feeling, that I had been in one of the most remarkable
palaces, and with one of the most remarkable men, in the world. Twice
afterward I saw him; once when our captain and a detachment of the
officers of the ship waited upon him by his invitation, and spent a most
agreeable evening, socially, enlivened with music by the band, and
broadsword and musket exercise by a squad of troops, and refreshed by a
handsome supper in the dining-room of the palace, on the walls of which
hung engravings of all the American Presidents from Washington down to
Jackson. I do not know who enjoyed the evening most; the king, to whom
the companionship of educated foreigners was a luxury which he could not
always command, or we, to whom the strange spectacle which I have been
trying to describe was one at which the more we gazed the more "the
wonder grew." Indeed, we felt so pleasantly at home that when we said
good-by, and left the pleasant, comfortable, home-like rooms in which
we had been sitting, the piano and the musical boxes, the cheery
hospitality of our good-natured host, and dropped down the river to the
narrow quarters of our ship, it was with something of the sadness which
attends the parting from one's native land, when the loved faces on the
shore grow dim and disappear, and the swelling canvas overhead fills and
stiffens with the seaward wind.
We had an opportunity of repaying something of the king's politeness,
for, in response to an invitation of the captain, he did what no king
had ever done before--came down the river and spent an hour or two on
board our ship (the U. S. sloop-of-war Portsmouth, Captain A. H. Foote
commanding), and was received with royal honors, even to the manning of
the yards. We made him heartily welcome, and the captain gave the
handsomest dinner which the skill of Johnson, his experienced steward,
could prepare--that venerable colored person recognizing the importance
of the occasion, and aware that he might never again be called upon to
get a dinner for a king. The captain did not fail to ask a blessing as
they drew about the table, taking pains to explain to his guest the
sacred significance of that Christian act--for it was at such a time as
this, especially, that the good admiral was wont to show the colors of
the "King Eternal" whom he served. The royal party carefully inspected
the whole ship, with shrewd and intelligent curiosity, and before they
left we hoisted the white elephant at the fore, and our big guns roared
forth the king's salute. Nor was one visit enough, but the next day he
came again, retiring for the night to the little steamer on which he
had made the journey down the river from Bangkok. It was a little fussy
thing, just big enough to hold its machinery and to carry its
paddle-wheels, but was dignified with the imposing name of "Royal Seat
of Siamese Steam Force." It was made in the United States, and put
together by one of the American missionaries in Bangkok. It was then the
only steamer in the Siamese waters, but it proved to be the pioneer of
many others that have made the Meinam River lively with the stir of an
increasing commerce.
At the death of the second king, in 1866, his elder brother issued a
royal document containing a biographical sketch and an estimate of his
character. It is written in the peculiar style, pedantic and conceited,
by which the first king's literary efforts are distinguished, but an
extract from it deserves on all accounts to be quoted. These two
brothers, both of extraordinary talents, and, on the whole, of
illustrious character and history, lived for the most part on terms of
fraternal attachment and kindness, although some natural jealousy would
seem to have grown up during the last few years of their lives, leading
to the temporary retirement of the second king to a country-seat near
Chieng Mai, in the hill-country of the Upper Meinam. Here he spent much
of his time during his last years, and here he added to his harem a new
wife, to whom he was tenderly attached. He returned to Bangkok to die,
and was sincerely honored and lamented, not only by his own people, to
whom he had been a wise and faithful friend and ruler, but also by many
of other lands, to whom the fame of his high character had become
known. His brother's "general order" announcing his decease, contains
the following paragraph:
"He made everything new and beautiful and of curious appearance, and of
a good style of architecture and much stronger than they had formerly
been constructed by his three predecessors, the second kings of the last
three reigns, for the space of time that he was second king. He had
introduced and collected many and many things, being articles of great
curiosity, and things useful for various purposes of military arts and
affairs, from Europe and America, China and other states, and planted
them in various departments and rooms or buildings suitable for these
articles, and placed officers for maintaining and preserving the various
things neatly and carefully. He has constructed several buildings in
European fashion and Chinese fashion, and ornamented them with various
useful ornaments for his pleasure, and has constructed two steamers in
manner of men-of-war, and two steam-yachts and several rowing
state-boats in Siamese and Cochin-China fashion, for his pleasure at sea
and rivers of Siam; and caused several articles of gold and silver,
being vessels and various wares and weapons, to be made up by the
Siamese and Malayan goldsmiths, for employ and dress for himself and his
family, by his direction and skilful contrivance and ability. He became
celebrated and spread out more and more to various regions of the
Siamese kingdom, adjacent states around, and far famed to foreign
countries even at far distance, as he became acquainted with many and
many foreigners, who came from various quarters of the world where his
name became known to most as a very clever and bravest prince of Siam."
Much more of this royal document is quoted in Mrs. Leonowens' "English
Governess at the Court of Siam."